Brightly colored tarantulas + questions

ReleaseTheQuacken

Arachnoknight
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May 9, 2017
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Hey guys, I was wondering if there is a list of brightly colored tarantula species ranging from difficulty of care.

Also if you want to get a pair of gloves to make sure even if it tries to bite it cant, any recommendations?

I hear avicularia versicolor are bright but on youtube they barely look colorful...

Just no old world species.

Asides from that is there a list of species that are more active than others?


Is it a good idea to get one nearly fully grown?

Please and thank you.
 

ReleaseTheQuacken

Arachnoknight
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May 9, 2017
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239
P.s. I don't intend to handle them. Just want to be able to see it out often. Bonus points for non skittish/defensive. Even more bonus points if their face/head is lighter colored that you can actually see their eyes. Something about the eyes fascinates me.
 

ZHESSWA

Arachnopeon
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May 2, 2017
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If you have no intention to hold then I wouldn't worry about gloves. As far as brightly colored beginners B. Hamorii or C. Versicolor would be the way to go. B. Hamorii is a classic t and a great beginner. It's fairly slow growing, so that would be something to consider, I personally would go for a 2 inch+ specimen of that species. The Veriscolor is also great and it's an arboreal. It's going to need a taller set up than the Hamorii, but the colors are stunning! The Hamorii is more forgiving for beginner mistakes, but if you do the proper research the Versi is doable. Once you gain some experience that would open the door to more brightly colored NWs like B. Boehmei, A. Geniculata, C. cyaneopubescens but these guys have a bit more attitude or speed compared to the Versi and Hamorii
 

Rhysandfish

Arachnoknight
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For gloves and if you’re 1000% serious about wanting bite proof gloves, Midwest Tongs has amazing gloves for even the most powerful venomous snakes. Versicolors are a good choice along with C. cyanopubescens. I personally like H. sp “Colombia”s as they’re extremely pretty and show adult coloration within a couple months. Oooh! I forgot to mention E. cyanognathus. Very cool species but a little more on the bitey defensive NW side, but very cool to raise from slings.
 

Nightstalker47

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Gloves wont help much with tarantulas, and can actually hinder your dexterity IMO. Never used them and never will. Fingers should always be kept at a distance, tongs are your best friend. Good thinking sticking to NWs for now, keep in mind that they can all still be somewhat skittish and defensive. Lucky for you, colorful species are plentiful in the hobby.

Anything brachypelma, makes for a fine beginner species, and some are quite vibrantly colored...all extremely hardy as well. My personal favorites are albiceps, hamorii and boehmei.



Another stunning NW terrestrial would be P.sazimai. Beautiful spiders with lots of personality, but they can be more high strung, and they are quite fast IME...so keep that in mind.

The next contenders are mostly recommended as intermediate species due to their skittishness, speed and defensive tendencies. Nhandu are among my favorites, they get big and eat anything that moves. Generally much more feisty though, so not always the best option for someone just getting started in the hobby.


Last but not least we have C.cyaneopubescens, gorgeous spiders that go through interesting color changes as they grow. They tend to be on the skittish side, not very defensive IME but still prone to bolting. Care is simple and they are super hardy.

Welcome to the boards!
 

EulersK

Arachnonomicon
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Being bitten really shouldn't be a concern if you're not going to be handling. There are people on here that have been in the hobby for years and have never been bitten. But, more to your actual question. Here are some species to look out for. I also included my personal opinion on difficulty of care rated from 1 to 10; 1 being the easiest, 10 being the hardest.

B. cabocla - Generally slightly skittish. Very interesting coloration (red head with black body/legs). A relatively small tarantula, but I wouldn't consider it a dwarf. Always out, great display spider. Requires slightly damp substrate, but handles dry spells very well once they're a juvenile. Care level: 3/10 just because of the humidity.


C. cyaneopubescens - The typical Greenbottle Blue. Generally very skittish, but out quite often. The webbing they produce is a huge positive to many people. Can be kept on predominantly dry substrate. Care level: 2/10 due to their skittish nature.

B. hamorii/B. smithi - Classic tarantula, everyone has seen these. Bone dry substrate, hide, water dish. That's all. Great coloration, but adults can be very pricey. Care level: 1/10, couldn't be any easier.


H. sp. "Columbia" - Both the Klein and Gross variants look (basically) the same, with the main difference being their size. They are extremely skittish, but typically just bolt for their web-tubes. Another great display spider, if for no other reason than their webbing. They prefer it slightly humid, but again, tolerate dry spells very well. Care level - 4/10 due to their skittishness, humidity requirements, and the Klein's size (smaller tarantulas escape easier, a proper enclosure is a must).


Anything from Euathlus - E. truculentus, E. sp. "Green"/"Blue"/"Red", anything really. Great display spiders, fairly small without being too small, and interesting colors in my opinion. All are kept predominantly dry, but I give mine a good "rain" every month or so. Care level - 2/10.


A. chalcodes - My personal favorite beginner spider. Adult females are relatively cheap, and their care couldn't be easier. Generally very calm and many shun their hides, they're usually out to see. Care level - 1/10, couldn't be easier.
 

cold blood

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Hey guys, I was wondering if there is a list of brightly colored tarantula species ranging from difficulty of care.
I doubt anyone will spend the hours it would take to comprise such a list.
Also if you want to get a pair of gloves to make sure even if it tries to bite it cant, any recommendations?
Gloves that could prevent fang penetration would be ill advised as anything that thick would greatly hinder ones dexterity making you more clumbsy and at risk for errors. Experience is by far your best tool to avoid bites.
I hear avicularia versicolor are bright but on youtube they barely look colorful...
First, they are now in the genus Caribina....second, they are stunning in person and since you keep them in person and not on youtube, in person is all that matters.

Lastly, there around 30 Avic species (and close relatives), so the variety is astounding and many are gorgeous.
Just no old world species.
That limits you a lot...OWs can be stunning
Asides from that is there a list of species that are more active than others?
Ts are inherently not active on a regular basis.

Even more bonus points if their face/head is lighter colored that you can actually see their eyes. Something about the eyes fascinates me.
like N. chromatus
or albiceps



This may qualify
 
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ReleaseTheQuacken

Arachnoknight
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May 9, 2017
Messages
239
For gloves and if you’re 1000% serious about wanting bite proof gloves, Midwest Tongs has amazing gloves for even the most powerful venomous snakes. Versicolors are a good choice along with C. cyanopubescens. I personally like H. sp “Colombia”s as they’re extremely pretty and show adult coloration within a couple months. Oooh! I forgot to mention E. cyanognathus. Very cool species but a little more on the bitey defensive NW side, but very cool to raise from slings.
Are the versicolors the martiniques? because youtube shows them as dull colored like dark with barely any bright.
 

cold blood

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Are the versicolors the martiniques? because youtube shows them as dull colored like dark with barely any bright.
Yes...pics don't always do them justice....their colors can vary, as I showed in my pics of them...but they are all beautiful.
 

Little Grey Spider

Arachnoknight
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Are the versicolors the martiniques? because youtube shows them as dull colored like dark with barely any bright.
Yes and they are one of the few species that are equally as stunning as slings. They are a beautiful species and definitely a looker at any stage of development.... This doesn't even do her justice. IMG_20180302_154950_951.jpg
 

ReleaseTheQuacken

Arachnoknight
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I like some of the ones posted. If gloves are a thing I cannot use I would like something to transfer any tarantulas with 0 risk of being even touched by it. I thought of a makeshift ladel container a long stick connected to a really big collecting cup and another with maybe a net or something to keep it in without risk of it getting hurt or viceversa.

Again 0 interest in handling. Just precautions.


As for slow growing tarantulas I would prefer faster growing tarantulas or atleast long lived enough I can get a sub adult. I like the red rump with white body but I am not sure if they would burrow.

I was thinking of buying a specimen from someone whose actually looked at it often enough.


Or do you guys have good recommendations? I am thinking I would wait until later this summer to prevent a cold tarantula. Same day shipping of course. I sort of love that n . chromatus but not sure about their personality.

I did like this one black tarantula I saw with bright white curly hairs. Looked like a cactus.

Yes...pics don't always do them justice....their colors can vary, as I showed in my pics of them...but they are all beautiful.
can you get em in stores?
 

cold blood

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If gloves are a thing I cannot use I would like something to transfer any tarantulas with 0 risk of being even touched by it
Catch cup...its that simple.....its what most of us use for transfers...zero contact and very safe.

As for slow growing tarantulas I would prefer faster growing tarantulas
Many of these listed here grow fairly quickly aside from the Brachypelmas.

I like the red rump with white body but I am not sure if they would burrow.
That's Brachypelma albiceps. Possibly the slowest growing Brachypelma, so don't get a sling.
I am thinking I would wait until later this summer to prevent a cold tarantula. Same day shipping of course.
Spring is the best time, easily the safest....summer's high temps provide similar difficulties that winter does...although if the seller knows how to ship, you can pretty much order any time with confidence.

Under good conditions, there's nothing wrong with 2 day shipping, its perfectly safe.
I sort of love that n . chromatus but not sure about their personality.
While they can be considered a beginner t, they are on the feistier side. But they tend to be visible and not too difficult to deal with...some can be a little skittish though.

I did like this one black tarantula I saw with bright white curly hairs. Looked like a cactus.
B. albopilosum
can you get em in stores?
Don't shop stores...shop dealers specializing in tarantulas...there is no more expensive route for buying ts than pet stores. Our classified section is filled with exceptional sellers...every single seller here has a corresponding review page (its a requirement), so you can shop and buy with confidence.

Waiting for things to show up locally severely limits your possibilities.
 

Little Grey Spider

Arachnoknight
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Also would they make use of a large exo terra?
Yes, although some users advise swapping out the screen top for acrylic with vent holes drilled in. C. versicolor requires very good ventilation. Stuffy, moist conditions are detrimental to their health. An well ventilated arboreal enclosure, dry sub, clean water dish always providing fresh water, climby things such as silk plants and a slab of cork bark. You're good to go.
 

ReleaseTheQuacken

Arachnoknight
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Catch cup...its that simple.....its what most of us use for transfers...zero contact and very safe.

Many of these listed here grow fairly quickly aside from the Brachypelmas.


That's Brachypelma albiceps. Possibly the slowest growing Brachypelma, so don't get a sling.

Spring is the best time, easily the safest....summer's high temps provide similar difficulties that winter does...although if the seller knows how to ship, you can pretty much order any time with confidence.

Under good conditions, there's nothing wrong with 2 day shipping, its perfectly safe.
While they can be considered a beginner t, they are on the feistier side. But they tend to be visible and not too difficult to deal with...some can be a little skittish though.


B. albopilosum


Don't shop stores...shop dealers specializing in tarantulas...there is no more expensive route for buying ts than pet stores. Our classified section is filled with exceptional sellers...every single seller here has a corresponding review page (its a requirement), so you can shop and buy with confidence.

Waiting for things to show up locally severely limits your possibilities.
That sounds good. About the chromatus, is there a way to handle it? are these the ones that refuse to hide? I atleast want something I can see at whatever time (except moults). Whats the average life span for these species?

Yes, although some users advise swapping out the screen top for acrylic with vent holes drilled in. C. versicolor requires very good ventilation. Stuffy, moist conditions are detrimental to their health. An well ventilated arboreal enclosure, dry sub, clean water dish always providing fresh water, climby things such as silk plants and a slab of cork bark. You're good to go.
nice
 
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cold blood

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About the chromatus, is there a way to handle it?
I thought you weren't interested in handling....chromatus isn't one you would want to handle.

are these the ones that refuse to hide?
Most sit in the open....I have several AF chromatus and all have actually barricaded their hides, making them useless...so I see them always. But there is individual variance with all ts, and any individual can hide or burrow...but most chromatus IME, especially larger ones, don't.

Whats the average life span for these species?
Males would live 2-5 years...females would live 14-20 years....ball park.
I also love whatever this is.... if its actually that bright
Yeah, that's versicolor...the one you said you weren't impressed with on you tube....lmao
 

ReleaseTheQuacken

Arachnoknight
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I thought you weren't interested in handling....chromatus isn't one you would want to handle.

Most sit in the open....I have several AF chromatus and all have actually barricaded their hides, making them useless...so I see them always. But there is individual variance with all ts, and any individual can hide or burrow...but most chromatus IME, especially larger ones, don't.

Males would live 2-5 years...females would live 14-20 years....ball park.
Yeah, that's versicolor...the one you said you weren't impressed with on you tube....lmao
Right I dont mean to handle as in touching it. I mean how to get it in a container without touching it or near it

I thought you weren't interested in handling....chromatus isn't one you would want to handle.

Most sit in the open....I have several AF chromatus and all have actually barricaded their hides, making them useless...so I see them always. But there is individual variance with all ts, and any individual can hide or burrow...but most chromatus IME, especially larger ones, don't.

Males would live 2-5 years...females would live 14-20 years....ball park.
Yeah, that's versicolor...the one you said you weren't impressed with on you tube....lmao
Yeah it looks pretty in that one pic. Is there a way to get a specimen that was someones pet for a while? as this could tell me its personality.


For arboreal tarantulas does it need dirt floors or can you use other subatrait?
 
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cold blood

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Right I dont mean to handle as in touching it. I mean how to get it in a container without touching it or near it
Same as any tarantula. Catch cups work for all tarantulas....bigger ts just need bigger cups, smaller ts need smaller cups....so simple.

There are other hands off techniques you can look up as well, such as the bag method.

Yeah it looks pretty in that one pic. Is there a way to get a specimen that was someones pet for a while? as this could tell me its personality.
Members here sell their ts they raised all the time...so yes, its possible.

For arboreal tarantulas does it need dirt floors or can you use other subatrate?
Any t can be housed on any of the acceptable substrates (or any combination)...sub is a matter of personal preference for the keeper. Use whatever substrate you want to.
 
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