Avicularia Husbandry?

SeniorSpidieLovr

Arachnopeon
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Welcome to the forum and the world of Avics. It's nice to see someone has finally decided to do research in ADVANCE of their purchase, so their next post isn't "HELP MY DEAD AVIC".

Many of us, myself included, are Avic enthusiasts.

I STRONGLY suggest you pour through all the Avic posts on this forum, including the vivarium forum.

They aren't too hard to keep BUT when they are 1" and smaller are a bit more delicate in the sense they have a narrow range of husbandry requirements that keep them alive.

First off, DO NOT read any care sheets, they will impress upon you the need for high humidity- this is NOT true. Moist, stuffy containers with poor ventilation will kill your Avic.

You are best off setting up a tall container for your arboreal Ts, such as a 16 oz deli cup if they are quite small. If they are a larger slings, say an inch or a bit more go with a 32 oz deli cup. Definitely put substrate in the bottom, not too much, perhaps about an inch is my preference (there's no scientific amount to add). Substrate varies, I use coco fiber, others use top soil and others use a mixture of other sub types such as sphagnum moss/peat/vermiculite etc. Some people use deli cups or inverted AMAC boxes (google those). I use both.

Here's an example of inverted AMAC boxes http://arachnoboards.com/threads/amac-style-box-enclosures.282537/ scroll down to arboreal.

There is no need to mist your T, it's not a plant. There is no scientific data supporting the idea that increased humidity helps in molting either.

For ventilation (there's no science as to what is "enough holes" for proper ventilation) in deli cups I put a few holes up at the top in case the T makes a canopy and molts up top and needs water (I add water in with a blunt tip syringe if needed), and I put small holes around the top and vertically I make holes down the deli cup, usually 8 vertical lines of holes around the perimeter of the deli cup. I do similar routine for inverted AMAC boxes.

I keep my sub dry, primarily because it's easier AND it reduced the attraction of mites. I always clean the boli (spherical cricket remains) out off the substrate to minimize mold formation as they will grow mold.

I provide them a cork bark slab put at an angle from sub floor to top of the container, like a 45 degree, just lean it against the wall, no need to hot glue it. I would also strongly suggest you provide additional anchor points with moss hot glued to the slab OR even better some plastic plants. I use ones from ZooMed. I never use silk plants as they may have dyes.

Also, the plants are important because this genus likes to have cover. They don't like to be out in the open. If you don't provide cover you will observe your T typically with its legs pulled in, and very rarely move.

ALWAYS provide them a water bowl. They will not drown so don't worry about that. As slings they are pretty sensitive to hydration levels, ie not enough food or water to keep their abdomen plump and they will die.

This is the style water bowl I make: http://www.tarantulasus.com/showthread.php/4353-A-tip-for-a-Tip-resistant-water-dish

I keep the water bowl on the sub floor, they will come down to drink and they will come down to hunt as well. I just put in crickets on the sub floor and watch the hunting.

Some people keep water dishes up top via hot glue. I noticed no benefit when I did that. It's personal preference.

For temps I typically keep them at 68F night/70-75F day. No particular photoperiod, just sun up/sun down.

Feeding: I feed slings as often as they will eat, because their only job in the wild is to evade predators, and eat to get large enough to defend themselves. Too many people put their slings on Nazi Feeding Programs, ie giving their T 1-2 crickets a week. I don't believe in that. I'd find it hard to believe they only eat 1-2x/week in the wild, but there's no data to support my thoughts on this to my knowledge.

When they are hungry, you will often observe them pointing downward head first towards the sub floor, legs spread out a bit, not retracted to their 2 body segments.

They are nocturnal, but if an Avic is really hungry they will eat at anytime, day/night.

A. metallica is probably the best in my opinion, quite docile which makes for easier rehousing as they grow larger. However, don't be fooled by their typically docile temperament, they are faster than a human when they need to be.

Lastly, do your T a HUGE favor and don't handle it. It derives no value from being handled. It's not capable of forming any bonds with you.

Avics will take a flying leap off your hand at any moment they choose, even from heights that will kill/injure them because in the wild they expect there to be branches etc to land on. They don't expect a free fall drop onto your carpet or floor etc.
Um in curious about the pointing downwards on walls of enclosure when hungry. Please elaborate thank you. (My recently purchased adult female is in this positron. I have her 1 large dubia yesterday, did she need more?) 🤗🕷
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
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Um in curious about the pointing downwards on walls of enclosure when hungry. Please elaborate thank you. (My recently purchased adult female is in this positron. I have her 1 large dubia yesterday, did she need more?) 🤗🕷
That is often a hunting posture, but you don't have to feed her every time she hunts. Look at the abdomen to gauge when to feed.

I fed my slings about every week, and I feed my juveniles and adult about twice a month.
 

KaroKoenig

Arachnobaron
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421
IMHO, that enclosure is way too small. Especially in vertical. The enclosure wall is pretty much the only place where the animal can sit stretched out. Barely.
 

SeniorSpidieLovr

Arachnopeon
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This is Wednesday my recently adopted adult female Avic. A sweet video of her grooming her Lil feet. ❤ Thank you all for your experiences.

IMHO, that enclosure is way too small. Especially in vertical. The enclosure wall is pretty much the only place where the animal can sit stretched out. Barely.
It's very temporary. Give her a minute to acclimated to my environment. I am looking for a larger enclosure. Thank you. Hey you think she won't explore the bark due to the limited space? She did do some webbing yesterday. Such a sweet calm girl. She are a dubia very gracefully. 😝🤗🥰🕷
 

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Dorifto

He who moists xD
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It's very temporary. Give her a minute to acclimated to my environment. I am looking for a larger enclosure. Thank you. Hey you think she won't explore the bark due to the limited space? She did do some webbing yesterday. Such a sweet calm girl. She are a dubia very gracefully. 😝🤗🥰🕷
She should aclimate in her final enclosure, it's an absurd to let her "aclimate" in a inpropper enclosure, with a lack of good ventilation and a overly moisted substrate... That would end in a dead avic easily.

The enclosure needs to be way higher, with a VERY GOOD VENTILATION, and lightly moist substrate, lightly, not damp like yours.
 

SeniorSpidieLovr

Arachnopeon
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Gotit. I'm on it today. It was 100° yesterday so I added more moisture. Aha wrong. Thank you I will correct size, ventilation and Substrate moisture today.
I really appreciate experienced guidance. 👍

Was waiting in front of Carter's Pet Mart at opening. I put new Substrate. Ideally would be practical to have the appropriate set up before purchasing. Unfortunately carriage before horse happens. Sigh. On track with this forums support. Thank you from Wednesday🕷 and I. 😝☺😌
 

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Dorifto

He who moists xD
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Was waiting in front of Carter's Pet Mart at opening. I put new Substrate. Ideally would be practical to have the appropriate set up before purchasing. Unfortunately carriage before horse happens. Sigh. On track with this forums support. Thank you from Wednesday🕷 and I. 😝☺😌
Much muc better!!! 😁

I'd add a little metallic mesh at the bottom gap to prevent any escape and to still maintain the ventilation properties.

I just saw that the front door wasn't closed fully, in that case I'd add some round ventilation grilles at the bottom, one each side, to increase the air flow.

Something like this:


They are pretty easy to install, dril the hole and press it. You can use some aquiarium silicone to glue it too 😁
 
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SeniorSpidieLovr

Arachnopeon
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It's secure. With front opening and lock. Where would a mesh go? Thank you for sharing any and all tips 🤗

Yes it's closed and locked.

Hmmmm
Shoot
Back to the drawing board On ventilation.
😬 Well sleep after graveyard for now. Ttyl

WHAT A CARELESS AND SCARY EXPERIENCE FOR US BOTH. WHEN I READ YOUR MESSAGE I LOOKED UP AND THE DOOR WAS OPEN AND SHE WAS GONE 😳😳😳 Deep breaths and careful looking. She went behind the cabinet she was on. Called Petmart Spider guy. He said Avics go up not down. Sigh. She is safe. Thanks for your experienced eye!!!!!! Hard lesson for us both.
 

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Dorifto

He who moists xD
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Nice to see she's fine! Lesson learned? Always check your enclosure twice! 😉
 

SeniorSpidieLovr

Arachnopeon
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Yes yes yessssss would not want her hurt. I chose this path and am responsible for her safety. Later please tell me more about adding ventilation. Thx. Zzzzzzzzzz
 

SeniorSpidieLovr

Arachnopeon
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Good morning; @Dirifto More ventilation by Sauder gun. 😝☺

Thank everyone for your shared here. Learning allot. 👍🕷👍🕷

Jamie62; 2 juvenile Curlys (easy peasy), 1 newly acquired adult female Avic, and an equally newly acquired itsy bitsy OBT.
 

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Dorifto

He who moists xD
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You can make a 2 row ventilation holes at the sides and the back, and some at the top. Leave the front glass clean 😉

You can clean up those burrs with a sharp knife or vitro scraper, if you want a cleaner look.

One last thing, does the front door bottom gap remain? If so, be sure that the carapace can't pass through it!!
 

SeniorSpidieLovr

Arachnopeon
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I've looked and ran my fingers along bottom, no openings. Yes yes will check again when I get home from work.

2 rows at bottom and rear bottom leave the front clean. Gotit
Great info to clean up holes really appreciate it.

I'm on it.
 
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