URGENT QUESTION.

notanarachnophobe

Arachnosquire
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Feb 8, 2017
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77
Almost confirmed I'll get a G. pulcherips sling very soon. I will give it a pill vial. How much substrate and what temperature?
THE URGENT QUESTIONS;
What do I do when it molts?
When do I give the sling a water dish?
What do I feed it?
Are they handleable as slings?
How do I remove the molt when it has shed?
How do I get the molt if it molted in its burrow?

THESE ARE URGENT QUESTIONS AS I WILL BE GETTING IT VERY SOON.
 

KezyGLA

Arachnoking
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Apr 8, 2016
Messages
3,033
When it molts leave it alone.

No need for a water dish for small slings. A spritz of water on sides of vial every few days is fine.

Feed it small prey like calci worms or disect larger prey an offer small pieces.

Yes you can handle but if it bolts and falls to its death then know that it was only for your amusement.

You can leave the old skin from molt in the vial. It wont rot. Remove if you want.

You can use small tweezers to retrieve the old exuviae.
 

notanarachnophobe

Arachnosquire
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
77
When it molts leave it alone.

No need for a water dish for small slings. A spritz of water on sides of vial every few days is fine.

Feed it small prey like calci worms or disect larger prey an offer small pieces.

Yes you can handle but if it bolts and falls to its death then know that it was only for your amusement.

You can leave the old skin from molt in the vial. It wont rot. Remove if you want.

You can use small tweezers to retrieve the old exuviae.
Thank you!
 

Chris LXXIX

ArachnoGod
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Dec 25, 2014
Messages
5,689
Happy to hear that you will have a Theraphosidae :-s

You can house the sling in a little sort of condiment cup as well, btw. I love to use plastic little containers like those for slings:

http://www.thespidershop.co.uk/12oz-round-tubs-p-1679.html

The temperature isn't too much important, Grammostola is a pretty hard genus on that sense, unless it's really but really too cold.
If the spider molts in the burrow there's chances that eventually he/she will throw that out, sometimes happens. If not, you can leave that in the burrow, it's not an issue at all, considering also that you will have to cage-upgrade the bugger when will grow.

I don't suggest handling at all, no matter the size. It's a useless risk and nothing else :-s
 

notanarachnophobe

Arachnosquire
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Messages
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Happy to hear that you will have a Theraphosidae :-s

You can house the sling in a little sort of condiment cup as well, btw. I love to use plastic little containers like those for slings:

http://www.thespidershop.co.uk/12oz-round-tubs-p-1679.html

The temperature isn't too much important, Grammostola is a pretty hard genus on that sense, unless it's really but really too cold.
If the spider molts in the burrow there's chances that eventually he/she will throw that out, sometimes happens. If not, you can leave that in the burrow, it's not an issue at all, considering also that you will have to cage-upgrade the bugger when will grow.

I don't suggest handling at all, no matter the size. It's a useless risk and nothing else :-s
What do you mean by throw it out? Like carry it? Also how big do they get from its bum to its pedipalps?
 

Sana

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Oct 26, 2014
Messages
1,143
Congratulations on new tarantula parenthood! It will all be okay. First question how big is the sling in question?

The general consensus for substrate height is as much as you need to have 2x the tarantula's DLS (diagonal leg span) between the top of the substrate and the top of the enclosure. Temperatures are fairly flexible. If you're comfortable in a tee shirt then your tarantula will be fine. My house and consequently my room of spiders averages about 73 F at the moment. Pill vials aren't necessarily the best enclosures but I have used them from time to time. Make sure you have a little cross ventilation (holes in the sides) and it should be fine. I keep all of my slings that are in big enough enclosures with a water bowl. I'm a fan of the shallow caps from Arrowhead water bottles. I feed very tiny crickets (they are as obnoxious as they sound) or pieces of prey like diced meal worm. Tarantulas do scavenge so dead prey is often easier at small sizes. Just remove anything uneaten within 24 hours. I feed once or twice a week with my young ones.

Molts are easy. You don't have to do anything. The spider knows what it's doing. In general slings will cast before they molt. My experience with your species as a sling is two to four weeks of fasting. Just keep the water dish full and let them do their thing. Removing a molt is also simple. Wait a day for them to start hardening up and then grab it with a set of tweezers. If the tarantula molts in a burrow it will generally throw the molt out this easy retrieval. Some tarantulas will keep the exurbia (molted exoskeleton) and incorporate it into their hide or use it to decorate. I have no idea why but it's not a huge issue. I've never had one mold or attract pests.

Handling is not recommended for a tarantula of any size. It greatly increases the chances of injury to both keeper and tarantula. A fall from any height has the potential to be fatal. It's also easier to have an escape and a missing spider this way. Tarantulas do have mood swings and even the most tolerant species can turn defensive with little to no warning. Getting haired is no fun and I gather from reading bits reports that notes are even less fun. Tarantulas don't have the capacity to form a bond with you unfortunately. At best you're a giant tree at worst a colossal predator. The happiest tarantulas that I have are the ones that have a nice place to hide and minimal disturbances.

Again enjoy your new little darling. Tarantulas are amazing creatures and this is a fascinating hobby. Side note tarantulas are like potato chips. You rarely stop at one.
 

notanarachnophobe

Arachnosquire
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
77
Congratulations on new tarantula parenthood! It will all be okay. First question how big is the sling in question?

The general consensus for substrate height is as much as you need to have 2x the tarantula's DLS (diagonal leg span) between the top of the substrate and the top of the enclosure. Temperatures are fairly flexible. If you're comfortable in a tee shirt then your tarantula will be fine. My house and consequently my room of spiders averages about 73 F at the moment. Pill vials aren't necessarily the best enclosures but I have used them from time to time. Make sure you have a little cross ventilation (holes in the sides) and it should be fine. I keep all of my slings that are in big enough enclosures with a water bowl. I'm a fan of the shallow caps from Arrowhead water bottles. I feed very tiny crickets (they are as obnoxious as they sound) or pieces of prey like diced meal worm. Tarantulas do scavenge so dead prey is often easier at small sizes. Just remove anything uneaten within 24 hours. I feed once or twice a week with my young ones.

Molts are easy. You don't have to do anything. The spider knows what it's doing. In general slings will cast before they molt. My experience with your species as a sling is two to four weeks of fasting. Just keep the water dish full and let them do their thing. Removing a molt is also simple. Wait a day for them to start hardening up and then grab it with a set of tweezers. If the tarantula molts in a burrow it will generally throw the molt out this easy retrieval. Some tarantulas will keep the exurbia (molted exoskeleton) and incorporate it into their hide or use it to decorate. I have no idea why but it's not a huge issue. I've never had one mold or attract pests.

Handling is not recommended for a tarantula of any size. It greatly increases the chances of injury to both keeper and tarantula. A fall from any height has the potential to be fatal. It's also easier to have an escape and a missing spider this way. Tarantulas do have mood swings and even the most tolerant species can turn defensive with little to no warning. Getting haired is no fun and I gather from reading bits reports that notes are even less fun. Tarantulas don't have the capacity to form a bond with you unfortunately. At best you're a giant tree at worst a colossal predator. The happiest tarantulas that I have are the ones that have a nice place to hide and minimal disturbances.

Again enjoy your new little darling. Tarantulas are amazing creatures and this is a fascinating hobby. Side note tarantulas are like potato chips. You rarely stop at one.
This advice is amazing, so helpful. I'm looking forward to meeting my new friend, I haven't gotten it yet. The Spider Shop has said it's 1cm, so a small guy. I can't wait to grow with him. I'm going through 'awkward times', and talking to my t after a long day will be great. I don't think I'll be allowed more than one. It took me THREE YEARS for a T! I can't guarantee I will, since I asked for GTA a while ago. I was negotiating the price of the game with my dad when my mum stepped in. But with the spider, my mum seems HAPPY about it. She said; "If you do well in physio, we can have a look at the price." She was also very smiley. I told her all we need is a pill vial and substrate (which my brother has because of his job) so it's looking good!
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
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Messages
3,825
The general consensus for substrate height is as much as you need to have 2x the tarantula's DLS (diagonal leg span) between the top of the substrate and the top of the enclosure.
There should be no more than 1.5-2x the tarantula's DLS in vertical space. (I assume this is what you meant, but as written, a new keeper might interpret your statement as being a minimum requirement, not a maximum limit.)
 

notanarachnophobe

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Messages
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There should be no more than 1.5-2x the tarantula's DLS in vertical space. (I assume this is what you meant, but as written, a new keeper might interpret your statement as being a minimum requirement, not a maximum limit.)
Thank you.
 

chanda

Arachnoking
Old Timer
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Jun 27, 2010
Messages
2,059
If you are able to retrieve the molt, it can be kind of fun to save them and mount each successive molt in a shadow box, showing the growth progression of your little darling. These are some of the molts from my first (a B. albopilosum). She has molted I think twice since I took that picture, so I've got a couple of molts to add to the box. (It looks like I need a bigger box!)

On a side note, the only time I've ever gotten "haired" was when I was arranging the molts in the shadow box. Latex gloves definitely would have been a good idea! Not that it was that bad - just a couple of itchy bumps that went away after a few days - but next time I handle molts, I'll be more careful!
 

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notanarachnophobe

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Messages
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If you are able to retrieve the molt, it can be kind of fun to save them and mount each successive molt in a shadow box, showing the growth progression of your little darling. These are some of the molts from my first (a B. albopilosum). She has molted I think twice since I took that picture, so I've got a couple of molts to add to the box. (It looks like I need a bigger box!)

On a side note, the only time I've ever gotten "haired" was when I was arranging the molts in the shadow box. Latex gloves definitely would have been a good idea! Not that it was that bad - just a couple of itchy bumps that went away after a few days - but next time I handle molts, I'll be more careful!
Seems cool. I'm really hyped about it. I've won after three years, but they haven't approved 100%.
 

Chris LXXIX

ArachnoGod
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What do you mean by throw it out?
That sometimes T's put "out" their molt, maybe near the water dish, or else. They molted in "point A", where at that moment the place was better for them, and later, eventually, they "clean" that spot putting the exuvia in "point B". This not always happens, because they aren't aware to be in a 'safe from predators' captivity man made enclosure, that's why mostly the molt remain where they molted.

As an example, the last thing that an obligate burrower wants, is to throw the molt just outside the burrow entrance... would be a "I live here" signal for predators... they don't want that.
 

Andrea82

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Read up on the links i gave you in your thread about getting a B.albopilosum or a G.pulchripes. All the answers are there ;)
 

notanarachnophobe

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Messages
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That sometimes T's put "out" their molt, maybe near the water dish, or else. They molted in "point A", where at that moment the place was better for them, and later, eventually, they "clean" that spot putting the exuvia in "point B". This not always happens, because they aren't aware to be in a 'safe from predators' captivity man made enclosure, that's why mostly the molt remain where they molted.

As an example, the last thing that an obligate burrower wants, is to throw the molt just outside the burrow entrance... would be a "I live here" signal for predators... they don't want that.
So they'll move it AWAY from the burrow so I can extract and preserve it.
 

Chris LXXIX

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So they'll move it AWAY from the burrow so I can extract and preserve it.
Yes, of course. But not always happens :-s

You have nothing to worry about that. T's molt is harmless, I have a nice collection of T's molt that are literally part of my T's hardcore burrowers burrow/house just like someone, in his/her house, loves to put a painting in the wall. It's decor.

Take that out? Fine. Leave that inside? Either.
 

notanarachnophobe

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Yes, of course. But not always happens :-s

You have nothing to worry about that. T's molt is harmless, I have a nice collection of T's molt that are literally part of my T's hardcore burrowers burrow/house just like someone, in his/her house, loves to put a painting in the wall. It's decor.

Take that out? Fine. Leave that inside? Either.
My parents won't want me putting molts on my bedroom wall. My Grace Kelly poster concerns them enough.
 
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