Brazilian Black Wooly SUPER hungry.

Marcustone

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So i just bought this T. It is a Brazilian black wooly t. The care sheet says feed 1 well fed cricketa week..... It has ate 13 in first 3 days is this normal? Should i be worried? Is it safe for me to feed until it stops eating? How long should i wait before i start handling it is about 1 1/2"- 2" across its body?
 

G. pulchra

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What is a Brazilian black wooly t?

Care sheets are usually poorly written. To answer your question, a picture of the tarantula and the size crickets your using would help a great deal.
 

Thekla

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Don't trust care sheets! Better come here for information. This thread should be really helpful: http://arachnoboards.com/threads/tarantula-information-for-beginners-and-more.318718/

Having said that, the care sheet gave good advice with the amount of feeders you should feed. So, why did you give your sling 13 crickets in 3 days?

Tarantulas are opportunistic, they eat as much as they can. But the more you feed them the longer they'll fast before they moult... and this could be months or even longer.

As for the handling, it would be best if you never handled it. Handling isn't a requirement in T keeping, more importantly, your T doesn't get anything out of it execpt being stressed or even hurt. Handling poses many risks, especially if your T gets startled and bolts.

Lastly, post some pictures of your T ( whatever it is ;)) and its enclosure. :)
 

Vanessa

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I have a juvenile female Grammostola actaeon and they are extremely skittish. I would never attempt to handle that species. That is an accident just waiting to happen and I would advise against it. They do not have the same temperament, or tolerance, that many species in the genus are known for. Not all Grammostola are the same by any stretch.
And yes, this species - along with grossa, iheringi, sp. Formosa - have very good appetites and do not have a propensity to fast. They are also faster growing than many other species in the genus. However, feeding 13 crickets in a few days is way overdoing it. At that size, I would be feeding one or two medium crickets a week.
 
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ItsFebreze

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My money is on it being a G. pulchra
It is more than likely G. iheringi, as that is what PetCo is selling as "Brazillian black wooly tarantulas."
Don't power feed it like that, and don't expect to handle it.
 

viper69

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iheringhi and actaeon slings and juvis look identical until acteon molts at about 4". The latter loses its brilliant red.


It is more than likely G. iheringi, as that is what PetCo is selling as "Brazillian black wooly tarantulas."
Don't power feed it like that, and don't expect to handle it.
how do you know the vendor is Petco?
 

ItsFebreze

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iheringhi and actaeon slings and juvis look identical until acteon molts at about 4". The latter loses its brilliant red.




how do you know the vendor is Petco?
I'm not 100% confident, but basing that this is a person who is very likely new to the hobby, and Petco very commonly sells G. iheringi or actaeon under the exact name, I just made a connection. Most people with questions like this are not getting them from reputable breeders, and likely got them at the closest big box store. Either way, the vendor isn't the important part here.
 

Marcustone

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It is a petco spider that picture you sent is VERY close to how it looks, JUST more RED hair working on a clear picture. But if i move his cage he hides and glass makes it fuzzy

Don't trust care sheets! Better come here for information. This thread should be really helpful: http://arachnoboards.com/threads/tarantula-information-for-beginners-and-more.318718/

Having said that, the care sheet gave good advice with the amount of feeders you should feed. So, why did you give your sling 13 crickets in 3 days?

Tarantulas are opportunistic, they eat as much as they can. But the more you feed them the longer they'll fast before they moult... and this could be months or even longer.

As for the handling, it would be best if you never handled it. Handling isn't a requirement in T keeping, more importantly, your T doesn't get anything out of it execpt being stressed or even hurt. Handling poses many risks, especially if your T gets startled and bolts.

Lastly, post some pictures of your T ( whatever it is ;)) and its enclosure. :)
I fed it because i have a pet spider in my bathroom that is TINY and it eats more than 1 cricket a week. I assumed a tarantula needs to eat more because of its size. And the people at petco didnt have ajy kind of info for me this was they only T

Looks brown cus picture is through glass but those haird are REALLY red
 

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Marcustone

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And i got to hold a tarantula in 2nd grade we had a guy bring some in along with a bunch of other critters i plan on handling my spider to keep him fairly docile. Also plan on maintaining a safe handling space with soft carpet and closed doors and whatnot just for my critters. So far the spider seems fairly unskittish around me. Yall saying it has no benefit, i say it has plenty. Spider gets out of cage, makes cleaning cage easier. And i know it can be done safely cus i did it as a child... But trying to learn from someone who does handle they spiders the ins and outs. I.e getting spider used to you, best way to pick up without alarming, any other safety tips for me or the spider.
 

viper69

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Looks brown cus picture is through glass but those haird are REALLY red
heat lamp on top? If so, not a good idea at all.

Petco very commonly sells G. iheringi or actaeon under the exact name
News to me, thanks. I've never seen them in any Petco around me.

i plan on handling my spider to keep him fairly docile
This doesn't work. It works for some animals, like certain mammals, and some but not all snakes.

Ts...this doesn't work at all. Anyone who told you this is an idiot.

i say it has plenty.
It doesn't. Talk to any arachnologist, don't take our word for it. :rolleyes:

getting spider used to you
Doesn't every happen.

any other safety tips for me or the spider
Don't handle T, OR give it to someone else.

Don't power feed it like that
Power feeding is a term used in the reptile hobby that doesn't apply to the T world. The worst thing (that we know of) of feeding that many prey is the T stops eating as it's reached its satiety level.
 
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Marcustone

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Yall keep telling me no then why the hell did they get brought into my 2nd grade class......but why no heatlamp on top? Its not high heat only 74 in there and on top of that it is designed to go on top. Its a red light/heat lamp good for night time it gets just coled enough to need some heat
 

viper69

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How long should i wait before i start handling it
Forever.

Yall keep telling me no then why the hell did they get brought into my 2nd grade class......but why no heatlamp on top? Its not high heat only 74 in there and on top of that it is designed to go on top. Its a red light/heat lamp good for night time it gets just coled enough to need some heat

General room of 75 is fine for most species. I keep mine at 75 day/ 68 night, 24/7 365.

Because the person who brought them didn't know any better. Just because someone does something, doesn't mean it's the safe or right thing to do. This is an an animal that gets ZERO benefit from being held. The only outcome is a negative one, like when they bites you, or leaps or somehow gets lost as people always report on here. The owner never suffers, only the animal in their care.

Also, Ts desiccate quite easily too compared to other animals when direct heat is involved. They aren't reptiles.
 
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ItsFebreze

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Power feeding is a term used in the reptile hobby that doesn't apply to the T world. The worst thing (that we know of) of feeding that many prey is the T stops eating as it's reached its satiety level.
In a perfect world, sure. But this is with a beginner keeper, who wants to handle their spider. We can disagree with that all we want, but I doubt it will do much to sway them. Obesity leads to an easily punctured abdomen from a less than perfect setup, and can be much easier to rupture in the case of a fall from handling.
 

viper69

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In a perfect world, sure. But this is with a beginner keeper, who wants to handle their spider. We can disagree with that all we want, but I doubt it will do much to sway them. Obesity leads to an easily punctured abdomen from a less than perfect setup, and can be much easier to rupture in the case of a fall from handling.
In a perfect world? not sure what you meant. I was speaking in reality.

Can't control the owner, if s/he kills the T by accident etc, that's on the owner.

I've not seen a T that is clinically obese, have you? o_O;)
 

EulersK

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Yall keep telling me no then why the hell did they get brought into my 2nd grade class......
It's a common thing for "experts" to do this, doesn't mean it's right. Tarantulas are very much like fish - look, don't touch pets. They benefit absolutely nothing from being handled. You brought up wanting to keep it docile, but why? If kept properly, you actually don't ever need to clean the enclosures. I've got spiders that haven't been cleaned in over a year. All you need to do with cleaning I'd pluck out the bolus when they're done eating.

Plus, there is no promise that it'll ever even get docile to begin with. Some spiders are just naturally defensive, and there's nothing you can do to change it.

but why no heatlamp on top? Its not high heat only 74 in there and on top of that it is designed to go on top. Its a red light/heat lamp good for night time it gets just coled enough to need some heat
Tarantulas (and most invertebrates) are very prone to dessication. That is, drying out. By adding a heat lamp, you are effectively drying out the enclosure so much that the tarantula could eventually die. All for no reason, as well. These don't need specific temperature ranges like reptiles. So long as you're comfortable in the room, then so are they.
 

cold blood

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Yall keep telling me no then why the hell did they get brought into my 2nd grade class.....
This is a classic example of why i hate these kinds of "educational" techniques some use. Teaching people about ts by allowing them to handle, gives no education, but rather gives the new person the complete wrong impression about the animal, and about what is best for the animal.

I equate it to a drivers ed teacher teaching new drivers how to do burnouts and doughnuts as part of educating new drivers....its irrisponsible behavior that would give a new driver the wrong impression about the safe use of a vehicle.

OP clearly developed the wrong impression about ts at a young age because of this, and is now convinced there is no harm and is normal t owner behaviour. Damage done...way back in 2nd grade.

a perfect world, sure. But this is with a beginner keeper, who wants to handle their spider. We can disagree with that all we want, but I doubt it will do much to sway them.
Education on how to do something properly or safely is precisely how minds are changed....no one can stop what the op wants to do, but we can make every attempt to educate the person better....thats whats going on here, and theres nothing wrong with that.
 

Teal

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Okay, let's see here...

1. Learn and use the scientific name of your spider so people know what the heck you're talking about.

2. Do a search on here using that scientific name and read all the posts that come up to learn about your T and the proper care it requires.

3. Ts are unlike any other pet people tend to have... They do not need socialization, exercise, training, etc like mammals nor do they need supplemental heat like some reptiles. Ts have rudimentary learning capabilities that are pretty much limited to essentials for survival like eating and knowing where their hide is to retreat to. Ts are not capable of domestication nor taming through handling (or any other means). Ts are drawn to heat like moths to flames, and will meet the same demise under a heat lamp or with direct access to a heat mat. Average room temperature between 65 and 90 degrees is fine for Ts, and temps a bit higher or lower can be tolerated by many species for a short time.

4. Having an exoskeleton means Ts are akin to eggs. And like eggs, if a T falls from a certain height, it will break. This is one major reason why Ts should not be handled. Fangs, urticating hairs, and potentially bolting from a slight breeze/being breathed on are other reasons.

5. I'm sorry that something you apparently have been wanting since a young age is actually dangerous to your pet. No one likes to have their beliefs challenged, but your hostility is only going to ensure your pet receives improper care. We may not have awesome communication skills here sometimes, but proper tarantula husbandry is what we are good at and we are simply trying to help you.

I've not seen a T that is clinically obese, have you? o_O;)
Yes. There was a post on here about some, too. The Ts' abdomens were so obese, they couldn't lift them so they were drug around on the (inappropriate, to boot) substrate.
 
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