Brazilian Black Wooly SUPER hungry.

Chris LXXIX

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Tarantulas (and most invertebrates) are very prone to dessication. That is, drying out. By adding a heat lamp, you are effectively drying out the enclosure so much that the tarantula could eventually die. All for no reason, as well. These don't need specific temperature ranges like reptiles. So long as you're comfortable in the room, then so are they.
I blame movies and such for this. Basically in every movie I've saw so far, where T's were presents (and I'm talking about non spider related themed movies as well) a heating lamp - placed above their utter 'gargantuan' sized cage - was always placed in :pompous:
 

EtienneN

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You would think that most people when confronted with solid factual information that helps both them and their pets would re-evaluate their priorities upon learning that certain things they were planning on doing with said pet were actually potentially deadly to their animal...But I guess you can lead a horse to water...
 

moricollins

Arachno search engine
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Okay, let's see here...

1. Learn and use the scientific name of your spider so people know what the heck you're talking about.

2. Do a search on here using that scientific name and read all the posts that come up to learn about your T and the proper care it requires.

3. Ts are unlike any other pet people tend to have... They do not need socialization, exercise, training, etc like mammals nor do they need supplemental heat like some reptiles. Ts have rudimentary learning capabilities that are pretty much limited to essentials for survival like eating and knowing where their hide is to retreat to. Ts are not capable of domestication nor taming through handling (or any other means). Ts are drawn to heat like moths to flames, and will meet the same demise under a heat lamp or with direct access to a heat mat. Average room temperature between 65 and 90 degrees is fine for Ts, and temps a bit higher or lower can be tolerated by many species for a short time.

4. Having an exoskeleton means Ts are akin to eggs. And like eggs, if a T falls from a certain height, it will break. This is one major reason why Ts should not be handled. Fangs, urticating hairs, and potentially bolting from a slight breeze/being breathed on are other reasons.

5. I'm sorry that something you apparently have been wanting since a young age is actually dangerous to your pet. No one likes to have their beliefs challenged, but your hostility is only going to ensure your pet receives improper care. We may not have awesome communication skills here sometimes, but proper tarantula husbandry is what we are good at and we are simply trying to help you.



Yes. There was a post on here about some, too. The Ts' abdomens were so obese, they couldn't lift them so they were drug around on the (inappropriate, to boot) substrate.
Wish I could give this two likes...
 

Vanessa

Grammostola Groupie
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Mar 12, 2016
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2,424
Yall keep telling me no then why the hell did they get brought into my 2nd grade class.
By that logic, you shouldn't be using a smartphone and should still listening to Britney Spears on a discman.
But you're not... because of something called progress.
 

PidderPeets

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Yall keep telling me no then why the hell did they get brought into my 2nd grade class......but why no heatlamp on top? Its not high heat only 74 in there and on top of that it is designed to go on top. Its a red light/heat lamp good for night time it gets just coled enough to need some heat
Thus is gonna be a long message so I apologize in advance. It's all pertinent information though and I hope you read it all.

Just like with many other animals kept as pets, knowledge of proper care is perpetually evolving. What may have been perceived as perfectly safe or beneficial to the animal years ago, may now have been proven to have negative consequences. A perfect example is the care for Avicularia sp. (Pink toes), as what used to be the standard care for them years ago has since been proven to be one of the best ways to kill them!

One thing we do know about tarantulas, and have known for a long time, is that they don't have a brain like mammals and reptiles do. Instead, they possess a cluster of nerves called a ganglion, which acts as their brain. Because this is much more simple than a proper brain, they don't have the capability of feeling emotions, pain, recognition, and other functions that occur in more complex animals.

I know people on here can be a bit rude, but please try to understand that it comes from a good place, the delivery is just a bit off sometimes. We all care very much for these animals and can be very passionate about it. To be honest, many on here care more for the safety and wellbeing of your new pet than they care about your feelings. It can be a bit frustrating when we hear that misinformation has affected a new keeper who simply doesn't know better. I know it can be easy to get defensive when it seems like more experienced people are talking down on you, but if you try to put up with it for a bit, you'll see that it isn't personal. All they want is for your tarantula to have its best life.

Although I wouldn't suggest handling (nor will many of the people on here), I can't stop you. What I will do is inform you of the risks to both yourself and the tarantula (so you can make your own decisions), as well as inform you how to handle as safely as possible should you decide to handle.

If a tarantula is nervous or doesn't want to be messed with, they can kick hairs, run, or bite out of defense. I know kicking hairs doesn't sound that bad (and it might not be at first), but it basically causes a rash, and repeated exposure only makes the reactions worse. I don't handle mine, but a single one of my tarantulas that liked to kick in her early stages took me from almost no reaction to a pretty bad rash that starts almost instantly and lasts a week or more.

Biting is less likely with a new world species like Grammostola iheringi, but it is still very possible. They could bite out of defense, but also because they could honestly mistake you for food! :anxious: While a bite might not sound that bad coming from a sling, an adult with a potentially 7 - 8 inch legspan would have fangs big enough to do nerve damage if they got your hand or finger. I have spiders about half that size that already have fangs about the size of a cat's. Ouch!

Running is much more dangerous to your tarantula than to yourself, and could potentially cost your new pet it's life. Since tarantulas don't get accustomed to people, a "giant monster" taking them out of their home can be rather frightening. Sometimes they deal with the initial handling fine, but a breath of air or a subtle hand movement sets them off and causes them to run or jump with no regard for whether or not there's ground beneath it. Falls are one thing tarantulas can't handle well. It can easily prove fatal if it's a fall higher than a couple inches off the ground or above a hard surface. And a death from a fall isn't a fast process. It's a slow death as the tarantula bleeds to death, and you may need to make a choice between letting it bleed out over hours or having to finish it off yourself (with either a foot or the freezer) as an act of sympathy. It's not something I'd want someone to have to experience. And a tarantula can react differently every single time it gets handled, so just because it was perfectly fine the first 20 times, doesn't mean it will be fine the 21st.

If you still choose to handle it, that is your right and I can't stop you. But I'd at least ask that you handle it as safely as possible. This means testing it's mood before each handling session by lightly touching one of its legs with a paintbrush or straw (and preferably not handling that day if the tarantula reacts by kicking, striking, or running), and only handling a few inches (seriously, like no more than 3 or 4 inches) over a very soft surface. You also should not be handling when the T is in premolt or freshly molted. Other than that, it's your choice, just please be willing to accept the consequences of your actions of anything were to go awry.

With that, I welcome you to the hobby and hope you continue to stick around on these forums and ask for help when need be. Even if we come across as rude at times, we will always give you the proper information needed to care for your new pet.
 

RandallD

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Nov 23, 2018
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5
I have a juvenile female Grammostola actaeon and they are extremely skittish. I would never attempt to handle that species. That is an accident just waiting to happen and I would advise against it. They do not have the same temperament, or tolerance, that many species in the genus are known for. Not all Grammostola are the same by any stretch.
And yes, this species - along with grossa, iheringi, sp. Formosa - have very good appetites and do not have a propensity to fast. They are also faster growing than many other species in the genus. However, feeding 13 crickets in a few days is way overdoing it. At that size, I would be feeding one or two medium crickets a week.
I slightly agree with skittish behaviour with G actaeon but when I handle mine it's very calm.
Also doesnt kick hairs or get defensive. I have heard it's the G iheringi that's the trouble maker out of the two. I also dont recomend handling but do so at own risk. I did this to test temperament as my 4 year old nephew wanted to hold one as he helped make enclosure etc for this one.

My money is on it being a G. pulchra
If its Petco then its definately not G pulchra. Cause Petco sells Brazilian wooly blacks( G actaeon ) not sure on G iheringi ( I believe common name is Brazilian red rump correct me if I'm wrong on this name)as I have never seen that in my Petco store
 

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Teal

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This means testing it's mood before each handling session by lightly touching one of its legs with a paintbrush or straw
I'm not sure where this came from, but I have seen it a few times and cannot recommend AGAINST this enough. Poking/prodding a T, however 'lightly' (lightly to a human and lightly to a T are not at all the same), is not "testing temperament"... it is, at the least, causing the T to become alert and more likely to react to further intrusion or, at the most, will elicit an immediate feeding response that freaks the owner out.
 

Teal

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YouTube :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Agreed, usually it either just triggers a feeding response or pisses off the tarantula
Okay, this YouTube bull<edit>... needs to STOP. I have not heard a single good thing about anyone popular on there in regards to Ts :rage:
 
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sasker

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And the people at petco didnt have ajy kind of info for me
Typical :rolleyes:

I've not seen a T that is clinically obese, have you?
I have seen tarantulas that were definitely bigger than what was good for them. Clinically? I am not sure. Never seen a clinic for tarantulas.

I did this to test temperament as my 4 year old nephew wanted to hold one as he helped make enclosure etc for this one.
It's of course your decision, but seeing how my G. iheringi tackles prey, I would never stick my hands anywhere near it. Let alone the squishy little hand of a 4-year old.
 

PidderPeets

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I'm not sure where this came from, but I have seen it a few times and cannot recommend AGAINST this enough. Poking/prodding a T, however 'lightly' (lightly to a human and lightly to a T are not at all the same), is not "testing temperament"... it is, at the least, causing the T to become alert and more likely to react to further intrusion or, at the most, will elicit an immediate feeding response that freaks the owner out.
YouTube :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Agreed, usually it either just triggers a feeding response or pisses off the tarantula

Both of which would amount to "tarantula is grouchy/hungry", and therefore should mean do not handle that day. Upon rereading my post, I realize I didn't explain that a T that reacts with a defensive or feeding response should be left alone and I should have said that. Ideally, not handling at all would be best (duh), but if you insist on handling, I would at least think getting an idea of how likely the T is to chomp or kick hairs before sticking a hand in there with it would be better for the safety of both the owner and the T.
 

Asgiliath

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It is a petco spider that picture you sent is VERY close to how it looks, JUST more RED hair working on a clear picture. But if i move his cage he hides and glass makes it fuzzy


I fed it because i have a pet spider in my bathroom that is TINY and it eats more than 1 cricket a week. I assumed a tarantula needs to eat more because of its size. And the people at petco didnt have ajy kind of info for me this was they only T

Looks brown cus picture is through glass but those haird are REALLY red
A pet spider in your bathroom? Like, a house spider you feed or ?

Lol, all I have to say to this is...

View attachment 311208
Do you keep this photo in your wallet or wear it in a locket around your neck? :D
 
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Teal

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Both of which would amount to "tarantula is grouchy/hungry", and therefore should mean do not handle that day. Upon rereading my post, I realize I didn't explain that a T that reacts with a defensive or feeding response should be left alone and I should have said that. Ideally, not handling at all would be best (duh), but if you insist on handling, I would at least think getting an idea of how likely the T is to chomp or kick hairs before sticking a hand in there with it would be better for the safety of both the owner and the T.
Except that isn't how it works :rolleyes:

Picture it...

.The spider is just hanging out, doing spood things, when suddenly... a poke to the leg! What the heck was that?! The spider is now on alert. Then a huge fleshy, multi-pronged object (a hand, to us humans) comes lowering down from the heavens... OH NO, I'M UNDER ATTACK and the spider defends itself.

That would be like me going up to my Malinois and poking him with a stick before getting him out to see if he is in a bitey mood or not... or a big cat keeper poking a cat before entering the enclosure... it just doesn't make sense to *poke* or *prod* or otherwise *harrass* something to "test the temperament."
 

RandallD

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Typical :rolleyes:



I have seen tarantulas that were definitely bigger than what was good for them. Clinically? I am not sure. Never seen a clinic for tarantulas.



It's of course your decision, but seeing how my G. iheringi tackles prey, I would never stick my hands anywhere near it. Let alone the squishy little hand of a 4-year old.
I dont know about G iheringi as I dont have one I have a G actaeon which is nowhere near as high strung as the G iheringi. It and my. B albo are Petco bought and neither one has ever kicked hairs or shown any defensive behavior even my 1 3/4 inch G pulchra is the same my half inch G pulcripes kicked hairs once before its molt when I gave it a pre killed meal worm but I would to if I was so little but it hasnt since it molted. Only one that does get skittish is the B albo when I fill its water dish and it scuttles away but as for taking anything out of enclosure like bolus taking out water dish etc all of them just sit there. This is him holding her. ( handle at own risk I know not everyone agrees with handling and yes Ts get nothing from it but to me it does go a long way in helping people scared of spiders tarantulas to over come that fear and I have now got a 4 year old interested in the hobby and is now not afraid of spiders.)
 

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PidderPeets

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Except that isn't how it works :rolleyes:

Picture it...

.The spider is just hanging out, doing spood things, when suddenly... a poke to the leg! What the heck was that?! The spider is now on alert. Then a huge fleshy, multi-pronged object (a hand, to us humans) comes lowering down from the heavens... OH NO, I'M UNDER ATTACK and the spider defends itself.

That would be like me going up to my Malinois and poking him with a stick before getting him out to see if he is in a bitey mood or not... or a big cat keeper poking a cat before entering the enclosure... it just doesn't make sense to *poke* or *prod* or otherwise *harrass* something to "test the temperament."
While I would say giving a second or third brush on the legs to see its response while it's alert would be the solution (and would hopefully prompt a response that would deter handling), I can't argue with your logic when you put it like that.

Ultimately I was trying to dissuade from handling, but offer a possible precursor to doing so. I might not have been able to express it correctly, but I was hoping that based on the reaction of the tarantula, the chances of handling would be decreased or eliminated altogether. Since I can't make anyone not handle their pet, the best thing I can do is try to deter it but still teach them safety tips (which in this case might help deter handling), and make sure they understand that they're at fault if any negative consequences occur. It might not be the steadfast opposition approach that many people on here take (not that I disagree with the opposition), but I've noticed it tends to prevent people from immediately shutting me out and it can even get through to them at times and make them decide against handling.

I still don't think I'm properly expressing exactly what I'm trying to, but hopefully you understand where I'm coming from. But like I said, you're not wrong.
 
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