# Theraphosa care and info



## Nightstalker47 (Jan 9, 2018)

We have had so many threads lately on Theraphosa, and I find myself repeating the same thing time and time again. This thread will cover most of the common questions, hopefully it should be useful to some of the newer keepers, and may even save a few spiders from neglect. I'll start by going over the basics. 
*
Care and husbandry:*
Theraphosa were famously labelled as "swamp dwellers" in the tarantula keepers guide. This is quite misleading, and inadvertently lead to many common husbandry errors, as well as people obsessing over humidity numbers they do not require. They need moist sub, good ventilation and it's that simple. They aren't anymore difficult to keep, so long as you know what your doing.

Once you setup the spider properly your already pretty much in the clear. I prefer using sterilite/rubbermaid tubs for large Theraphosa. When you use glass aquariums, the ventilation ratio is almost always off. You either have too much, or not enough, both of which can be detrimental to your spider long term. 
*
Setup:*
For your custom enclosure. Start by drilling plenty of ventilation holes on the sides of the tub. I usually do three rows on each end. Give the spider plenty of substrate depth, and provide a partially buried hide, as they will take to burrowing...especially younger specimens. Larger individuals may abandon their hides/burrows as they grow, but they should still always have the option.
*
Maintenance:*
Since these spiders consume so much food, you will have far more waste to clean up after. Spot cleaning is very important, as well as regularly providing the spider with clean drinking water. My specimens foul their water bowls after almost every meal, so stay on top of it or you will come back to something nasty one day.

Also, you will need to keep the substrate moist as it dries out. Poor water directly into the sub, and avoid misting...ineffective and will just send hairs airborne. Speaking of hairs, theraphosa have the worst urticating setae in the hobby. Hands off, always use tongs and be vigilant when doing maintenance...they tend to be rather voracious and are definitely prone to mistaking you for food.
*
Growth rates:*
These are the fastest growing spiders you can get your hands on if kept right and fed often. I always emphasize on feeding theraphosa more then you would almost any other genus. It all goes towards growth. Obviously slow down on feeding with adults, but young growing spiders need as much as they can get. I had my female T.stirmi go from 1.5" to roughly 8" in less then two years time. My smaller unsexed specimen is too young to gauge as of now. 
*
Size:*
Theraphosa are the largest spiders in the hobby, commonly exceeding 9" in legspan. It was said that T.blondi is the largest of the genus, but truth is that T.stirmi get just as large if not larger. T.apophysis have the more slender build, and tend to be more leggy then the aforementioned species. All are stunning in their own right. 

*Identification:*
Let's start with spiderlings.
T.stirmi will have four pink/white tarsi on the four front legs.
T.blondi will have no pink/white tarsi on any legs.
T.apophysis will have pink/white tarsi on all eight legs.

As adults or sub-adults, T.blondi is best distinguished by the heavy presence of setae on the pattella. Whereas it is absent with stirmi. T.apophysis doesn't really look like the other two species, so they are rarely ever confused. They also happen to be the only species within the genus that possess tibial hooks(mature males).

I think I covered most of it. Feel free to contribute to this thread. Pictures of any species within the genus are more then welcome.

Reactions: Like 23 | Thanks 2 | Agree 1 | Informative 16 | Helpful 4 | Love 3


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## Nightstalker47 (Jan 9, 2018)

T.stirmi.

Reactions: Like 10 | Love 2


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## ccTroi (Jan 9, 2018)

Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing!!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tarmizi Zakaria (Jan 9, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> We have had so many threads lately on Theraphosa, and I find myself repeating the same thing time and time again. This thread will cover most of the common questions, hopefully it should be useful to some of the newer keepers, and may even save a few spiders from neglect. I'll start by going over the basics.
> *
> Care and husbandry:*
> Theraphosa were famously labelled as "swamp dwellers" in the tarantula keepers guide. This is quite misleading, and inadvertently lead to many common husbandry errors, as well as people obsessing over humidity numbers they do not require. They need moist sub, good ventilation and it's that simple. They aren't anymore difficult to keep, so long as you know what your doing.
> ...


Thanks

Reactions: Like 1


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## PanzoN88 (Jan 10, 2018)

Great thread, will be sure to remember this thread when the day comes that I buy a T. stirmi.

Reactions: Like 1


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## BoyFromLA (Jan 10, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> I had my female T.stirmi go from 1.5" to roughly 8" in less then two years time.


That is one crazy fast growth rate...

Reactions: Agree 4


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## Moakmeister (Jan 10, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> I had my female T.stirmi go from 1.5" to roughly 8" in less then two years time.


GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORD

Reactions: Agree 5


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## basin79 (Jan 10, 2018)

Fantastic post(s). Hopefully it can become a sticky as the question gets asks regularly enough.

I do have to type though at the moment my Grammostola iheringi is out moulting my T.blondi. Which is hugely surprising.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Jonroe (Jan 10, 2018)

Great post, nothing I would disagree on. 



Nightstalker47 said:


> As adults or sub-adults, T.blondi is best distinguished by the heavy presence of setae on the pattella. Whereas it is absent with stirmi. T.apophysis doesn't really look like the other two species, so they are rarely ever confused. They also happen to be the only species within the genus that possess tibial hooks(mature males).
> 
> I think I covered most of it. Feel free to contribute to this thread. Pictures of any species within the genus are more then welcome.


I would mention though that the precense of more hair is more apparent on the femur, not the patella.

Reactions: Lollipop 1


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## McSP1D8R (Jan 10, 2018)

Jonroe said:


> Great post, nothing I would disagree on.
> 
> To be fair its a combination of patella and underside of the femur.
> 
> I would mention though that the precense of more hair is more apparent on the femur, not the patella.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## Andrea82 (Jan 10, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> We have had so many threads lately on Theraphosa, and I find myself repeating the same thing time and time again. This thread will cover most of the common questions, hopefully it should be useful to some of the newer keepers, and may even save a few spiders from neglect. I'll start by going over the basics.
> *
> Care and husbandry:*
> Theraphosa were famously labelled as "swamp dwellers" in the tarantula keepers guide. This is quite misleading, and inadvertently lead to many common husbandry errors, as well as people obsessing over humidity numbers they do not require. They need moist sub, good ventilation and it's that simple. They aren't anymore difficult to keep, so long as you know what your doing.
> ...


Thanks so much, this will go into my database 'frequently asked info' right next to the threads of viper and venom about Avics and the stickies.

Reactions: Like 2 | Love 1


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## StampFan (Jan 10, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> We have had so many threads lately on Theraphosa, and I find myself repeating the same thing time and time again. This thread will cover most of the common questions, hopefully it should be useful to some of the newer keepers, and may even save a few spiders from neglect. I'll start by going over the basics.
> *
> Care and husbandry:*
> Theraphosa were famously labelled as "swamp dwellers" in the tarantula keepers guide. This is quite misleading, and inadvertently lead to many common husbandry errors, as well as people obsessing over humidity numbers they do not require. They need moist sub, good ventilation and it's that simple. They aren't anymore difficult to keep, so long as you know what your doing.
> ...


Thoughts on the ideal dimensions for an adult Sterlite/Rubbermaid enclosure?  I see a lot of different opinions (some super long and not wide but very shallow in height, some super fossorial deep and not very long, etc.).  Even a minimum/maximum range would be excellent to see.  Also if you have a recommendation for those who want to use a fairly clear Sterlite/Rubbermaid type so they actually can see their eight legged monsters....Thanks!

Reactions: Like 2


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## McSP1D8R (Jan 10, 2018)

I've tried a few different volume tubs in various shapes. Had a 45 litre cube shape half filled with sub but wasnt very much manoeuvring room when I introduced a male for mating.




	

		
			
		

		
	
  The one in the picture is 84 litres but was a back breaker to lift as I had it half filled with pure top soil! I found a local supplier with peat moss now so I do a 50/50 mix with top soil which makes it far lighter and better at retaining moisture.

 My favourite thus far is a 3ft x 1ft 64 litre tub although no lock mechanism on the lid so needs weighed down just incase

Reactions: Like 5


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## Jonroe (Jan 10, 2018)

@StampFan
Couldn't you have used coco fiber instead of pete moss as an addative? 
Is there a benefit to using pete moss?


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## basin79 (Jan 10, 2018)

Jonroe said:


> @StampFan
> Couldn't you have used coco fiber instead of pete moss as an addative?
> Is there a benefit to using pete moss?


I use Irish moss peat as it's slightly acidic so does well at stopping mold from growing. Add springtails too and you're all set up.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Chris LXXIX (Jan 10, 2018)

Jonroe said:


> @StampFan
> Couldn't you have used coco fiber instead of pete moss as an addative?
> Is there a benefit to using pete moss?


You can use what you want. Coco fiber, Irish moss peat, normal topsoil (choosing this option, check what's inside, before) or, why not, even pure finest 'dirt' soil. Which matters, what is 'key' are the parameters, not the substrate used _per se_.

Additive is, as far as I know, only vermiculite, which IMO helps for mantain the level of humidity in the long run.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## McSP1D8R (Jan 10, 2018)

Jonroe said:


> @StampFan
> Couldn't you have used coco fiber instead of pete moss as an addative?
> Is there a benefit to using pete moss?


Yes its quite light and aerated plus it can hold 20 times its own weight in moisture without becoming water logged. As Basin said less chance of mould plus it provides detritrivorous material for the springtails to eat compared to coir which is basically ground coconut shell..


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## Jonroe (Jan 10, 2018)

Thanks people. I'll probably give my Stirmi coco and topsoil when she/he grows up. 
Do you think this is a decent home for her right now?


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## McSP1D8R (Jan 10, 2018)

Nothing wrong with it per se Im just not a fan of those encloures. And Im a moss fiend so I would have a big pile of it in there


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## Nightstalker47 (Jan 10, 2018)

StampFan said:


> Thoughts on the ideal dimensions for an adult Sterlite/Rubbermaid enclosure?  I see a lot of different opinions (some super long and not wide but very shallow in height, some super fossorial deep and not very long, etc.).  Even a minimum/maximum range would be excellent to see.  Also if you have a recommendation for those who want to use a fairly clear Sterlite/Rubbermaid type so they actually can see their eight legged monsters....Thanks!


 Anything on the larger side will do. Not too long, good width and enough depth to pack in at least 5-6" of sub. You have to look around when your shopping, some of the tubs are much clearer then others. Choose wisely.


Jonroe said:


> Thanks people. I'll probably give my Stirmi coco and topsoil when she/he grows up.
> Do you think this is a decent home for her right now?


Not the best option for your Theraphosa sling, the sub will dry out very fast in that enclosure. Find yourself an appropriately sized sterilite container and drill some ventilation holes on the sides. Pretty sure I went over this in the OP. The top wont allow moisture to escape as quickly, and you still have excellent ventilation.


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## StampFan (Jan 10, 2018)

The Hancock and Hancock book suggests that you can keep a T. blondi in an 18 X 12 enclosure (45cm X 30cm).  So you can appreciate the confusion that people have....


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## SecDet24 (Jan 10, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> We have had so many threads lately on Theraphosa, and I find myself repeating the same thing time and time again. This thread will cover most of the common questions, hopefully it should be useful to some of the newer keepers, and may even save a few spiders from neglect. I'll start by going over the basics.
> *
> Care and husbandry:*
> Theraphosa were famously labelled as "swamp dwellers" in the tarantula keepers guide. This is quite misleading, and inadvertently lead to many common husbandry errors, as well as people obsessing over humidity numbers they do not require. They need moist sub, good ventilation and it's that simple. They aren't anymore difficult to keep, so long as you know what your doing.
> ...


thanks for this great info, i'll keep it till one day i buy t. stirmi

Reactions: Like 1


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## StampFan (Jan 11, 2018)

Any comments from anyone about life expectancy for these Ts? I see a lot of old threads debating. Anybody have data on the oldest recorded or oldest in a current collection?


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## Juniorispissed (Jan 11, 2018)

If possible, can someone show t. Blondi vs. t. Stir i side by side and show what to watch for in regards to telling them apart. Both are high on my list, but want to make sure I get what I'm after/pay for what I'm getting.


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## McSP1D8R (Jan 11, 2018)

Juniorispissed said:


> If possible, can someone show t. Blondi vs. t. Stir i side by side and show what to watch for in regards to telling them apart. Both are high on my list, but want to make sure I get what I'm after/pay for what I'm getting.






All rights to Mario Hering the owner of the pics

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## Jonroe (Jan 11, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Anything on the larger side will do. Not too long, good width and enough depth to pack in at least 5-6" of sub. You have to look around when your shopping, some of the tubs are much clearer then others. Choose wisely.
> 
> Not the best option for your Theraphosa sling, the sub will dry out very fast in that enclosure. Find yourself an appropriately sized sterilite container and drill some ventilation holes on the sides. Pretty sure I went over this in the OP. The top wont allow moisture to escape as quickly, and you still have excellent ventilation.


No, the substrate doesn't dry out very quick. Can't confirm that from my experience of using them.
That being said, I rewater every enclosure weekly since I have the time and not too much animals too care for.

Never had any issues with mositure retention. 

€: I should mention Im from Germany, we don't have much dry air where Im from. Maybe thats important to note. 
I really can't say the substrate dries up fast at all, trying to figure out why. 
I get what your saying thou.


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## Nightstalker47 (Jan 11, 2018)

StampFan said:


> Any comments from anyone about life expectancy for these Ts? I see a lot of old threads debating. Anybody have data on the oldest recorded or oldest in a current collection?


Anywhwere from 10-20 years would be expected for females living in captivity. Some claim they can live 25+ years. Males are obviously much shorter lived.

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## Bigme213 (Mar 18, 2018)

They are pretty awesome

Reactions: Like 1 | Love 1


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## Nightstalker47 (Mar 18, 2018)

Bigme213 said:


> They are pretty awesome


Nice looking specimen man! Add the species name for reference please.


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## Bigme213 (Mar 18, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Nice looking specimen man! Add the species name for reference please.


Sorry t. Stirmi sub adult female


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## mazzzz (Mar 27, 2018)

Bigme213 said:


> They are pretty awesome


NEEEEEEDDDD!!!!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Bigme213 (Mar 27, 2018)

mazzzz said:


> NEEEEEEDDDD!!!!


Here's a better pic. Yeah I love keeping her. Can always coax her out of hiding with food


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## Nightstalker47 (Mar 27, 2018)

Ill never understand how some people find these unattractive.

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 3


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## Bigme213 (Mar 27, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Ill never understand how some people find these unattractive.


Well said.


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## mazzzz (Mar 28, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Ill never understand how some people find these unattractive.


IMO they are one the most beautiful T's.. I cannot wait until I get one!


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## Bigme213 (Mar 28, 2018)

mazzzz said:


> IMO they are one the most beautiful T's.. I cannot wait until I get one!


You'll love it. They're beautiful. And feeding is a blast. One of my favs

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## Venom1080 (Jul 25, 2018)

Heres my boy. Close to 8". Trading him off in a couple weeks. Forgot you had girls Nightstalker47, would have asked you first. 


Frog meal.
	

		
			
		

		
	



Worm feeding.


 gonna miss him.

Theraphosa stirmi

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## Nightstalker47 (Jul 26, 2018)

Venom1080 said:


> Heres my boy. Close to 8". Trading him off in a couple weeks. Forgot you had girls Nightstalker47, would have asked you first.
> View attachment 282066
> 
> Frog meal.
> ...


Damn man you should have! All good though. Nice looking male....where are you sending him, anyone I know? Just in case my plan falls through.

These guys usually survive breeding if someones watching nearby, MMs of this genus aren't exactly pushovers.


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## Venom1080 (Jul 26, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Damn man you should have! All good though. Nice looking male....where are you sending him, anyone I know? Just in case my plan falls through.
> 
> These guys usually survive breeding if someones watching nearby, MMs of this genus aren't exactly pushovers.


Ryan Mack. Owner of tangledinwebs.

For sure. But he probably has a lot in plan for him.

Would have traded him for that female schioedtei of yours.


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## Nightstalker47 (Jul 26, 2018)

Venom1080 said:


> Would have traded him for that female schioedtei of yours.


 No thanks, thats not a trade I would ever make. 

Shes staying right here with me. Nice try though.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## EDED (Jul 26, 2018)

nobody talked about temperature

from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C

any other thoughts on the temp?  they definitely seem stressed out when the temp gets near 80F (26deg C) or higher.  They would come out of the hide and walk all over the tank<<trying to escape or avoid 

also i noticed that
Theraphosa adults are surprisingly hardy, withstanding temporary dry spell, temperature drop etc,  from my experience importing them.


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## Venom1080 (Jul 26, 2018)

EDED said:


> nobody talked about temperature
> 
> from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
> will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C
> ...


Really? My room gets into the low eighties on occasion. I never noticed anything.


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## EDED (Jul 26, 2018)

yes thats why i asked others for their inputs, 

however i am pretty sure they wouldnt do well at 85 or above. 

I think thats why i am successful at breeding burrowing spiders only i keep them cooler, 
where African and some other NW species need it much higher temp for their metabolism

Reactions: Agree 1


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## AphonopelmaTX (Jul 26, 2018)

EDED said:


> yes thats why i asked others for their inputs,
> 
> however i am pretty sure they wouldnt do well at 85 or above.
> 
> ...


I noticed the same thing you described with my giant adult female T. stirmi.  With temperatures over 100 degrees F in Texas for the past week, my spider room got to nearly 90 degrees F for a few days.  The T. stirmi kept leaving its hide and wandered around its container.  Since temperatures dropped in my spider room to below 85 degrees F, it settled down and went back to never coming out of its hide. In an attempt to remedy the high temperatures in its plastic container, I soaked the substrate with cool water which seemed to help it calm down some.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Nightstalker47 (Jul 26, 2018)

EDED said:


> any other thoughts on the temp?  they definitely seem stressed out when the temp gets near 80F (26deg C) or higher.  They would come out of the hide and walk all over the tank<<trying to escape or avoid





EDED said:


> however i am pretty sure they wouldnt do well at 85 or above.


Adult theraphosa seem most comfortable in the mid to low seventies just as you mentioned earlier, many have noticed this wandering behavior and its definitely temperature related. I can attest to keeping them slightly cooler as well, and they do just fine.

When it comes to breeding, high temps can be detrimental on the females...and cause the sacs to go bad, lots of the difficulty breeding this genus stems from keeping them too warm and thinking they need it. What we know for certain, is that these live in deep burrows underground where temps are much lower then the surface...and these wooded areas are all relatively cool and shaded.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Ultum4Spiderz (Jul 26, 2018)

AphonopelmaTX said:


> I noticed the same thing you described with my giant adult female T. stirmi.  With temperatures over 100 degrees F in Texas for the past week, my spider room got to nearly 90 degrees F for a few days.  The T. stirmi kept leaving its hide and wandered around its container.  Since temperatures dropped in my spider room to below 85 degrees F, it settled down and went back to never coming out of its hide. In an attempt to remedy the high temperatures in its plastic container, I soaked the substrate with cool water which seemed to help it calm down some.


So you do not have air conditioning?



EDED said:


> nobody talked about temperature
> 
> from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
> will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C
> ...


I would wet them let substrate dry out when I had a sick T stirmi sold to me with a cyst . I tried my hardest to save it but it pushed lid off even with clips . And injured it’s abdom even worse re opening cyst , R.I.P.
Very tough T tough as nails as adults . So are phamphos.


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## Nightstalker47 (Sep 12, 2018)

*World record for fastest growing spider?
*
Just wanted to follow up on how crazy fast this genus can grow.

After noticing my largest stirmi molted last night, I took the opportunity to measure her molt and saw just how large she was. Without even stretching the molt in the least, she was 8'' on the dot.

Looking at her now, I would estimate she has grown another inch in DLS from this molt...her carapace has gotten enormous as well. To think that this spider is less then three years of age is just remarkable. Has anyone even experienced anything close to this? Literally went from 1.5'' to roughly 9'' in this short time span.

It seems unlikely to me, who knows...I might actually hold the record for fastest growing tarantula _ever_.

Reactions: Like 2 | Wow 2


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## Venom1080 (Sep 13, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> *World record for fastest growing spider?
> *
> Just wanted to follow up on how crazy fast this genus can grow.
> 
> ...


Sounds pretty typical to me honestly. Within 2 years you generally have a adult ~7" Poecilotheria.


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## Nightstalker47 (Sep 13, 2018)

Venom1080 said:


> Sounds pretty typical to me honestly. Within 2 years you generally have a adult ~7" Poecilotheria.


True enough, but comparatively poecs are much smaller in build then any Theraphosa, even an 8" female regalis is probably smaller then a six or seven inch theraphosa...if you see where im heading.

My female is doing the post molt stretching now, Ill see if I can get some quick pics of her...just crazy though. At roughly 9" now, shes bigger then any poec could ever be...physically anyway, some can actually get that large in leg span.


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## Venom1080 (Sep 13, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> True enough, but comparatively poecs are much smaller in build then any Theraphosa, even an 8" female regalis is probably smaller then a six or seven inch theraphosa...if you see where im heading.
> 
> My female is doing the post molt stretching now, Ill see if I can get some quick pics of her...just crazy though. At roughly 9" now, shes bigger then any poec could ever be...physically anyway, some can actually get that large in leg span.


Still same legspan  

I do see where you're going with it. But if one spider gets 7" in 2 years and another ten in 2.5, and ones thicker, which one really grew faster?


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## Nightstalker47 (Sep 13, 2018)

Venom1080 said:


> Still same legspan
> 
> I do see where you're going with it. But if one spider gets 7" in 2 years and another ten in 2.5, and ones thicker, which one really grew faster?


I agree that leg span always comes first reference wise, still...never heard of any poec hitting 9" in less then three years.

Lets just put it this way, if you had both spiders side by side and they had an identical DLS, you would instantly know which one was bigger.

_Theraphosa stirmi - _mature spermathecae


	

		
			
		

		
	
 AF post molt.


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## Venom1080 (Sep 13, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> I agree that leg span always comes first reference wise, still...never heard of any poec hitting 9" in less then three years.
> 
> Lets just put it this way, if you had both spiders side by side and they had an identical DLS, you would instantly know which one was bigger.


That's fair.. and a challenge.. hopefully one day when I can breed rufilata or buy some more ornata off you I'll test that. 

Ornata went from 3/4" to 5" in a year. Only about 2" in the next year. I'll let you know if she hits nine before Sept 9 2019.

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## esa space station (Oct 18, 2018)

McSP1D8R said:


> I've tried a few different volume tubs in various shapes. Had a 45 litre cube shape half filled with sub but wasnt very much manoeuvring room when I introduced a male for mating.
> 
> View attachment 262848
> View attachment 262849
> ...


Hi how you doing mate!thought i saw that user name !i used to be on another site it was you who mentioned ze germans to me! Since then i have dealt with many and have got some t blondi 1.1s k


McSP1D8R said:


> I've tried a few different volume tubs in various shapes. Had a 45 litre cube shape half filled with sub but wasnt very much manoeuvring room when I introduced a male for mating.
> 
> View attachment 262848
> View attachment 262849
> ...


Did u ever get a result with t blondi pairing any slings?



Jonroe said:


> No, the substrate doesn't dry out very quick. Can't confirm that from my experience of using them.
> That being said, I rewater every enclosure weekly since I have the time and not too much animals too care for.
> 
> Never had any issues with mositure retention.
> ...


Ive Always found thats it best to water the soil a little near /slightly inside burrow and a dry layer pn top to maintain the humidity at acceptable level as compared fo the r h in the air .yes i know its pf some debate some kerp t blond either to wet or to dry id learned yo keep a happy medium



EDED said:


> nobody talked about temperature
> 
> from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
> will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C
> ...


Yrp i agree i remember the lovely sub female i paid 85 for 14 yr ago!blondest id ever seen!



Nightstalker47 said:


> Adult theraphosa seem most comfortable in the mid to low seventies just as you mentioned earlier, many have noticed this wandering behavior and its definitely temperature related. I can attest to keeping them slightly cooler as well, and they do just fine.
> 
> When it comes to breeding, high temps can be detrimental on the females...and cause the sacs to go bad, lots of the difficulty breeding this genus stems from keeping them too warm and thinking they need it. What we know for certain, is that these live in deep burrows underground where temps are much lower then the surface...and these wooded areas are all relatively cool and shaded.


Spot on 18-22 degrees inside burrow typically  as light is only 15-25 percent after going thru forest canopy as well although i aim for 21-25 c   with 70-80 humidity where the spider is in its microclimate the rest is kept dry


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## Nightstalker47 (Oct 18, 2018)

esa space station said:


> Spot on 18-22 degrees inside burrow typically  as light is only 15-25 percent after going thru forest canopy as well although i aim for 21-25 c   with 70-80 humidity where the spider is in its microclimate the rest is kept dry


Dont worry about ambient humidity numbers, its not something that really factors in...moist sub, good cross vent and you're all set.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2


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## esa space station (Oct 19, 2018)

Lee


Tarmizi Zakaria said:


> Thanks


Keep up the good work on the theraphosa im interested i seeing these as much as bigfoot!


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Nov 20, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> We have had so many threads lately on Theraphosa, and I find myself repeating the same thing time and time again. This thread will cover most of the common questions, hopefully it should be useful to some of the newer keepers, and may even save a few spiders from neglect. I'll start by going over the basics.
> *
> Care and husbandry:*
> Theraphosa were famously labelled as "swamp dwellers" in the tarantula keepers guide. This is quite misleading, and inadvertently lead to many common husbandry errors, as well as people obsessing over humidity numbers they do not require. They need moist sub, good ventilation and it's that simple. They aren't anymore difficult to keep, so long as you know what your doing.
> ...


Well done! I definitely agree that most people over-complicate the husbandry of Theraphosa. I will add that I keep my Female Juvenile T. stirmi in a glass aquarium with little to no issues. For ventilation, I just cover a portion of the screen top with paper towel (I will soon replace the screen top with vented plexiglass, as I don't want the T to get her feet stuck if she decides to climb), leaving two spaces in the lid for air flow (one on each side of the tank), and I used a glass drill bit to drill holes into the side of the aquarium for added ventilation. Nothing against the sterilite tubs, but the aquarium looks alot nicer and I've been keeping her with great success in it! 
Cheers

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Paul1126 (Nov 20, 2018)

EDED said:


> from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
> will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C


I am so glad someone with experience has said this, what boggled my brain when looking for care before this thread was the amount of YouTube videos/Care sheets from other forums saying Theraphosa need high temps 28C+


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## antinous (Nov 20, 2018)

Paul1126 said:


> I am so glad someone with experience has said this, what boggled my brain when looking for care before this thread was the amount of YouTube videos/Care sheets from other forums saying Theraphosa need high temps 28C+


I’ve seen some Pampho species at a nice crisp 60-65 degrees. Not saying all species should be kept like this, but there are always exception to this rule


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## cold blood (Nov 20, 2018)

Paul1126 said:


> I am so glad someone with experience has said this, what boggled my brain when looking for care before this thread was the amount of YouTube videos/Care sheets from other forums saying Theraphosa need high temps 28C+


Never read care sheets.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## esa space station (Nov 21, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Well done! I definitely agree that most people over-complicate the husbandry of Theraphosa. I will add that I keep my Female Juvenile T. stirmi in a glass aquarium with little to no issues. For ventilation, I just cover a portion of the screen top with paper towel (I will soon replace the screen top with vented plexiglass, as I don't want the T to get her feet stuck if she decides to climb), leaving two spaces in the lid for air flow (one on each side of the tank), and I used a glass drill bit to drill holes into the side of the aquarium for added ventilation. Nothing against the sterilite tubs, but the aquarium looks alot nicer and I've been keeping her with great success in it!
> Cheers


Yep .i have to say ive been keeping mine this way for some time now.with good cross flow ventilation on sides thru perspex sheeting(on side s of glass aquaruim on vivaruim track) .since someone mentioned temp yeh it doesnt have to be 28.c i know.im currently translating a book(boris striffler) and the climate for theraphosa blondi is nearer 25.c all
Year  round but 30.c for t.apophysis.i  find 22.c to 24.c(day to be  ideal in any case.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Nov 21, 2018)

esa space station said:


> Yep .i have to say ive been keeping mine this way for some time now.with good cross flow ventilation on sides thru perspex sheeting(on side s of glass aquaruim on vivaruim track) .since someone mentioned temp yeh it doesnt have to be 28.c i know.im currently translating a book(boris striffler) and the climate for theraphosa blondi is nearer 25.c all
> Year  round but 30.c for t.apophysis.i  find 22.c to 24.c(day to be  ideal in any case.


Yup, keeping Theraphosa in aquariums is definitely not for everyone, but if you know how to set it up correctly, I don’t see an issue with it


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## esa space station (Nov 22, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Yup, keeping Theraphosa in aquariums is definitely not for everyone, but if you know how to set it up correctly, I don’t see an issue with it


Female 5th moult.moulted two month ago ate like a  horse now gone off  feed


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## SteveIDDQD (Dec 4, 2018)

Hi Everyone, I'm new here, but been a keeper for 12 years.

Was looking for a modern take on Theraphosa requirements, as the various care sheets available online seemed off to me, and I found this thread.  Thank you all for the great info, especially Nightstalker47!
I have a 3.5cm sling T.blondi arriving any day, and I want to get the set up right, as I've not had a species requiring the more damp conditions of this guy before.
I have a shallow deli cup set up with plenty of 1mm holes around the edge, and a few in the lid.  I've kept some moist coco fibre, a bottle cap water dish and a little moss in there for 4 days and it's not dried out too much, and no mould.   I also have some springtails to add too for when there's food leftovers in there.  
Now I'm thinking it may be best to start with something bigger as it seems it'll grow pretty fast... Maybe a 3ltr "really useful box" type thing?  Or I've got some 3ltr Braplast tubs going spare?  Doesn't look like they have any issue hunting down food in a bigger enclosure...
Thanks again.

Reactions: Like 1


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## esa space station (Dec 4, 2018)

SteveIDDQD said:


> Hi Everyone, I'm new here, but been a keeper for 12 years.
> 
> Was looking for a modern take on Theraphosa requirements, as the various care sheets available online seemed off to me, and I found this thread.  Thank you all for the great info, especially Nightstalker47!
> I have a 3.5cm sling T.blondi arriving any day, and I want to get the set up right, as I've not had a species requiring the more damp conditions of this guy before.
> ...


Braplast tubs are fine Germans swear by them.most People opt for rubs(large plastic boxs as they get older or glass with cross ventilation plexi sheets on vivaruim track with drilled cross flow ventilation)stop me if im getting to wordy here think of all the fun you will have.


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## Nightstalker47 (Dec 4, 2018)

SteveIDDQD said:


> Hi Everyone, I'm new here, but been a keeper for 12 years.
> 
> Was looking for a modern take on Theraphosa requirements, as the various care sheets available online seemed off to me, and I found this thread.  Thank you all for the great info, especially Nightstalker47!
> I have a 3.5cm sling T.blondi arriving any day, and I want to get the set up right, as I've not had a species requiring the more damp conditions of this guy before.
> ...


Yeah that should be just fine for now, good hunters would be an understatement. Now it will definitely outgrow the deli cup quickly, so a larger enclosure would be fine right off the bat, just make sure it has a nice hide...thats where it will spend most of its time. These basically double in size with each molt during the early stages of growth, so you would be saving yourself the hassle of rehousing several times over. Feel free to share pictures of your setup, and Ill give you some feedback.

Welcome to the forums.

Reactions: Like 1


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## esa space station (Dec 4, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Yeah that should be just fine for now, good hunters would be an understatement. Now it will definitely outgrow the deli cup quickly, so a larger enclosure would be fine right off the bat, just make sure it has a nice hide...thats where it will spend most of its time. These basically double in size with each molt during the early stages of growth, so you would be saving yourself the hassle of rehousing several times over. Feel free to share pictures of your setup, and Ill give you some feedback.
> 
> Welcome to the forums.


Hi got some t blondi pics up in sexing gallery could you take a look tell me what u think thanks

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Nightstalker47 (Dec 4, 2018)

esa space station said:


> Hi got some t blondi pics up in sexing gallery could you take a look tell me what u think thanks


Your pictures were pretty out of focus, but it looks like you have a female...if you can get clearer photos it would help me confirm. 

As a note for other readers that are inquiring about this, Theraphosa are very easy to vent sex once they surpass the 3-4'' mark. Males will have a large triangular patch right above the furrow, whereas this is absent with females.

Reactions: Love 1


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## SteveIDDQD (Dec 4, 2018)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Yeah that should be just fine for now, good hunters would be an understatement. Now it will definitely outgrow the deli cup quickly, so a larger enclosure would be fine right off the bat, just make sure it has a nice hide...thats where it will spend most of its time. These basically double in size with each molt during the early stages of growth, so you would be saving yourself the hassle of rehousing several times over. Feel free to share pictures of your setup, and Ill give you some feedback.
> 
> Welcome to the forums.


Thanks for the welcome and advice.  

I've attached a somewhat rubbish photo (this tablet has the worse camera ever), there is a cork hide and a water dish.  It's about 10/11cm diameter.  For reference, the one next to it is a large deli cup with my gbb sling inside.

One last thing to pick your brain about, do you add any additional heat for your blondi?  I ask because I keep all my T 's at room temperature, so a max of 21/22, and lower at night. I have put a large heatmat on the wall behind my T shelves this winter, but it's at least 3cm from any of the enclosures and I'm pretty sure it doesn't help too much.  I don't like the idea of having heatmats actually touching any enclosures though.


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## esa space station (Dec 4, 2018)

SteveIDDQD said:


> Thanks for the welcome and advice.
> 
> I've attached a somewhat rubbish photo (this tablet has the worse camera ever), there is a cork hide and a water dish.  It's about 10/11cm diameter.  For reference, the one next to it is a large deli cup with my gbb sling inside.
> 
> One last thing to pick your brain about, do you add any additional heat for your blondi?  I ask because I keep all my T 's at room temperature, so a max of 21/22, and lower at night. I have put a large heatmat on the wall behind my T shelves this winter, but it's at least 3cm from any of the enclosures and I'm pretty sure it doesn't help too much.  I don't like the idea of having heatmats actually touching any enclosures though.


I would use heat mats if i were you those temps at 21-22 are ok at night but id up it 2-3 degrees to be safe .heat mats provide a good bit of heat 
I use a hygro/thermo probe inside the burrow its 2 inch away from heat mat and in ideal range although said t usually gos about 3 inches away from it(to self regulate)


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## boina (Dec 5, 2018)

SteveIDDQD said:


> Thanks for the welcome and advice.
> 
> I've attached a somewhat rubbish photo (this tablet has the worse camera ever), there is a cork hide and a water dish.  It's about 10/11cm diameter.  For reference, the one next to it is a large deli cup with my gbb sling inside.
> 
> One last thing to pick your brain about, do you add any additional heat for your blondi?  I ask because I keep all my T 's at room temperature, so a max of 21/22, and lower at night. I have put a large heatmat on the wall behind my T shelves this winter, but it's at least 3cm from any of the enclosures and I'm pretty sure it doesn't help too much.  I don't like the idea of having heatmats actually touching any enclosures though.


Those temps are perfectly fine. My whole collection lives at those temps and has been for years and I have spiders that are much more sensitive than Theraphosa. You are right to be wary of heat mats. The local heat they provide can get very dangerous.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Helpful 1


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## SteveIDDQD (Dec 5, 2018)

boina said:


> Those temps are perfectly fine. My whole collection lives at those temps and has been for years and I have spiders that are much more sensitive than Theraphosa. You are right to be wary of heat mats. The local heat they provide can get very dangerous.


Thanks, this is good news.  I've also never had any issue in the past, but I've mostly kept hardy little tanks. 
I'm going to measure the temperature tonight on the shelf and see what it get down to.  We are in a very old solid stone walled house in the UK, so even with the central heating ticking over, I can see it dropping down to between 12 and 17 in the winter (the thermostat is set at 17 for the whole house).



SteveIDDQD said:


> Thanks for the welcome and advice.
> 
> I've attached a somewhat rubbish photo (this tablet has the worse camera ever), there is a cork hide and a water dish.  It's about 10/11cm diameter.  For reference, the one next to it is a large deli cup with my gbb sling inside.
> 
> One last thing to pick your brain about, do you add any additional heat for your blondi?  I ask because I keep all my T 's at room temperature, so a max of 21/22, and lower at night. I have put a large heatmat on the wall behind my T shelves this winter, but it's at least 3cm from any of the enclosures and I'm pretty sure it doesn't help too much.  I don't like the idea of having heatmats actually touching any enclosures though.


Sorry, That was a terrible photo!

Better one from my phone attached - 3cm GBB sling for scale, if you can spot him.


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## esa space station (Dec 5, 2018)

SteveIDDQD said:


> Thanks, this is good news.  I've also never had any issue in the past, but I've mostly kept hardy little tanks.
> I'm going to measure the temperature tonight on the shelf and see what it get down to.  We are in a very old solid stone walled house in the UK, so even with the central heating ticking over, I can see it dropping down to between 12 and 17 in the winter (the thermostat is set at 17 for the whole house).


Yep weather is not great in uk when using heat mats always think e.g its 60 degrees so the heat mat has to add another 10-15 degrees that and a larger burrow with a warm&colder spot all common sense really plus if your substrate nice&damp humidity goes up temp might drop off a few degrees or substrate dry humidity low temp up a notch all trying to find and create that perfect microclimate around the spider.also might be great for a week then  have to damp it down again a bit hope this helps



esa space station said:


> Female 5th moult.moulted two month ago ate like a  horse now gone off
> feed


Back on feed 2 day after pic bulking up nice as well!




Nightstalker47 said:


> Your pictures were pretty out of focus, but it looks like you have a female...if you can get clearer photos it would help me confirm.
> 
> As a note for other readers that are inquiring about this, Theraphosa are very easy to vent sex once they surpass the 3-4'' mark. Males will have a large triangular patch right above the furrow, whereas this is absent with females.


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## SteveIDDQD (Dec 6, 2018)

Update:  The little/big guy is now settled in a braplast tub, with lots of 1mm holes drilled in all sides, and a few in the lid.
The delli cup looked on the small side once he was inside.  The braplast should do him for a couple of moults, and then I'll go for something bigger - it's a shame the braplast's are only 75mm tall, 125mm would suit the height and width better and make it better for larger T's.

I can't believe how leggy he is, it really looks like a standard large UK house spider, but with long leg hairs and he's jet black.  I dropped a cricket in after a few hours and left him to it.  I checked back after 30 mins and he was eating it, so that's a good sign.
I gave him a hide, but on checking this morning he's till just sat in the open on a bit of moss.  Just from moving him from the deli cup to the other box, he's not one to be pushed around - doesn't immediately bolt forward when pushed and we had a couple of threat postures toward the straw.

Once he's settled and calmer, I'll get some photos and upload for you all.  tried taking some through the lid but they weren't very clear.


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## esa space station (Dec 6, 2018)

SteveIDDQD said:


> Update:  The little/big guy is now settled in a braplast tub, with lots of 1mm holes drilled in all sides, and a few in the lid.
> The delli cup looked on the small side once he was inside.  The braplast should do him for a couple of moults, and then I'll go for something bigger - it's a shame the braplast's are only 75mm tall, 125mm would suit the height and width better and make it better for larger T's.
> 
> I can't believe how leggy he is, it really looks like a standard large UK house spider, but with long leg hairs and he's jet black.  I dropped a cricket in after a few hours and left him to it.  I checked back after 30 mins and he was eating it, so that's a good sign.
> ...


Theres nothing more cute than a baby t blondi!well done


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## Nightstalker47 (Nov 10, 2019)

UPDATE. 

14 months later and the queen of the T room has molted again. Starting to look really brawny, this is typical in larger Theraphosa. They begin to thicken out at this stage, and grow much more negligibly in leg span.

Reactions: Like 1 | Love 1


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## esa space station (Nov 21, 2019)

Nightstalker47 said:


> UPDATE.
> 
> 14 months later and the queen of the T room has molted again. Starting to look really brawny, this is typical in larger Theraphosa. They begin to thicken out at this stage, and grow much more negligibly in leg span.
> View attachment 325262


8th molt theraphosa b


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## TheDarkAbyss (Jun 11, 2020)

Greetings.

I've been keeping a juvenile female Theraphosa Apophysis for around 6 months now and I just need someone else to validate if this is a good enough setup for her for now at least until she gets bigger.
This has around 3-4 inches of substrate with one extra inch for a drainage layer, a mix of potting soil and coco fiber mixed with orchid bark and charcoal and is kept at a constant 80% humidity, I haven't sprayed it yet and it has been in here for a month and is eating well, is there anything else I should do or change?















EDIT: I believe these are called Exo-Terra Breeding Box, small. do I need to seal some of the vent holes or let it keep running at 100%? I haven't sealed any holes for the month she has been in here


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## Nightstalker47 (Jun 11, 2020)

TheDarkAbyss said:


> Greetings.
> 
> I've been keeping a juvenile female Theraphosa Apophysis for around 6 months now and I just need someone else to validate if this is a good enough setup for her for now at least until she gets bigger.
> This has around 3-4 inches of substrate with one extra inch for a drainage layer, a mix of potting soil and coco fiber mixed with orchid bark and charcoal and is kept at a constant 80% humidity, I haven't sprayed it yet and it has been in here for a month and is eating well, is there anything else I should do or change?
> ...


So long as the soil doesn't dry out too quick, and you have decent airflow, it should do just fine. Dont worry about humidity numbers, especially when using those cheap gauges...they're far from accurate.


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## vurzachee (Jun 21, 2020)

Venom1080 said:


> That's fair.. and a challenge.. hopefully one day when I can breed rufilata or buy some more ornata off you I'll test that.
> 
> Ornata went from 3/4" to 5" in a year. Only about 2" in the next year. I'll let you know if she hits nine before Sept 9 2019.


did she hit 9 ?


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## Venom1080 (Jun 23, 2020)

vurzachee said:


> did she hit 9 ?


No. Shes still only about 7.5". I did breed her recently and she has a sac with her right now. She is due to molt in the fall.


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## Transrights (Jun 23, 2020)

Moakmeister said:


> GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORD


I've had a little T. Stirmi sling since March and I thought I had given her an appropriately sized enclosure, good for a couple of molts I thought.... Turns She has only molted once and I'll already have to rehouse her after the next one. The size which they put on and the speed at which they do it is indeed scary.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Nightstalker47 (Jun 27, 2020)

Transrights said:


> I've had a little T. Stirmi sling since March and I thought I had given her an appropriately sized enclosure, good for a couple of molts I thought.... Turns She has only molted once and I'll already have to rehouse her after the next one. The size which they put on and the speed at which they do it is indeed scary.


Oh yeah for sure, it wouldn't be an exaggeration to say that Theraphosa slings double in size with each molt during the early stages of their lives. Ill also add that you can house these in bigger setups right off the bat, just make sure they have a den or hide available with some burrowing potential.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Marcostaco (May 5, 2021)

Great thread! The growth rates on them are crazy. 

Here's my T blondi's 2 previous molts. It went from 3" DLS to 5"

Reactions: Like 1


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## Nightstalker47 (Aug 14, 2021)

Marcostaco said:


> Great thread! The growth rates on them are crazy.
> 
> Here's my T blondi's 2 previous molts. It went from 3" DLS to 5"


 Crazy!


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## Stardust1986 (Aug 14, 2021)

Nightstalker47 said:


> We have had so many threads lately on Theraphosa, and I find myself repeating the same thing time and time again. This thread will cover most of the common questions, hopefully it should be useful to some of the newer keepers, and may even save a few spiders from neglect. I'll start by going over the basics.
> 
> *Care and husbandry:*
> Theraphosa were famously labelled as "swamp dwellers" in the tarantula keepers guide. This is quite misleading, and inadvertently lead to many common husbandry errors, as well as people obsessing over humidity numbers they do not require. They need moist sub, good ventilation and it's that simple. They aren't anymore difficult to keep, so long as you know what your doing.
> ...


I keep a therophosa stirmi, I hear their not as difficult to keep as the blondi. From what I learned, good ventilation +humidity =happy therophosa, also since the enclosure is moist, I recommend spri tails, they eat mold. I learned therophosa also go on hunger strikes for long periods, thos suprised me. Give them more space than they need, it's a special situation, they put on a lot of size quickly


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## TheDarkAbyss (Jan 4, 2022)

Sorry to ping this thread again, but I am in an odd predicament right now.

I've had my T. Apophysis for almost 2 years at this point and I learned from it that it goes into a sort-of molting strike usually in July-August, ending in December. I say this because besides this time of year, she molts consistently every 2-3 months. I live in a high elevation area in the Philippines where it starts getting somewhat cold during November. I've kept her the same way all this time with the moisture probe telling me the lower levels of the soil are always at a 75-80% humidity level. She has however recently done her regular premolt stuff such as line the burrow entrance with urticating hairs but the abdomen hasn't darkened yet. Her last molt this year was at the 9th of June. That makes it as of writing, 211 days AKA 6 months and 28 days and the last strike lasted 4 months and 16 days.


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## Marcostaco (Jan 4, 2022)

TheDarkAbyss said:


> Sorry to ping this thread again, but I am in an odd predicament right now.
> 
> I've had my T. Apophysis for almost 2 years at this point and I learned from it that it goes into a sort-of molting strike usually in July-August, ending in December. I say this because besides this time of year, she molts consistently every 2-3 months. I live in a high elevation area in the Philippines where it starts getting somewhat cold during November. I've kept her the same way all this time with the moisture probe telling me the lower levels of the soil are always at a 75-80% humidity level. She has however recently done her regular premolt stuff such as line the burrow entrance with urticating hairs but the abdomen hasn't darkened yet. Her last molt this year was at the 9th of June. That makes it as of writing, 211 days AKA 6 months and 28 days and the last strike lasted 4 months and 16 days.


Simple, as they grow molts get less frequent. And tarantulas don't do "molt strikes", there's tons of factors in molting. Their new exoskeleton forming underneath, temperature, etc.


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## Nightstalker47 (Jan 4, 2022)

TheDarkAbyss said:


> Sorry to ping this thread again, but I am in an odd predicament right now.
> 
> I've had my T. Apophysis for almost 2 years at this point and I learned from it that it goes into a sort-of molting strike usually in July-August, ending in December. I say this because besides this time of year, she molts consistently every 2-3 months. I live in a high elevation area in the Philippines where it starts getting somewhat cold during November. I've kept her the same way all this time with the moisture probe telling me the lower levels of the soil are always at a 75-80% humidity level. She has however recently done her regular premolt stuff such as line the burrow entrance with urticating hairs but the abdomen hasn't darkened yet. Her last molt this year was at the 9th of June. That makes it as of writing, 211 days AKA 6 months and 28 days and the last strike lasted 4 months and 16 days.


Interesting observation, IME once they get over the 7" mark molts will slow down by a long shot. Seasons could affect this as well for sure. 


Marcostaco said:


> Simple, as they grow molts get less frequent. And tarantulas don't do "molt strikes", there's tons of factors in molting. Their new exoskeleton forming underneath, temperature, etc.


Mostly true, many others have observed what he speaks of above. Those who log every molt tend to have the best data.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Marcostaco (Jan 4, 2022)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Interesting observation, IME once they get over the 7" mark molts will slow down by a long shot. Seasons could affect this as well for sure.
> 
> Mostly true, many others have observed what he speaks of above. Those who log every molt tend to have the best data.


Not much but 50 something tarantulas at home, have data of each and every molt of each specimen


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## 8 legged (Jan 5, 2022)

I am free and add my experience / observation.
On the one hand T. stirmi tolerates much more drought than T. blondi, on the other hand my Theraphosas only build egg sacks after mating when their cave is dry. Accordingly, the substrate is always slightly moist with me, I just keep the hiding place dry. If I also keep the burrow damp, no egg sac will be created. At least that's how it is with my animals...


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## TheDarkAbyss (Jan 9, 2022)

Nightstalker47 said:


> Interesting observation, IME once they get over the 7" mark molts will slow down by a long shot. Seasons could affect this as well for sure.
> 
> Mostly true, many others have observed what he speaks of above. Those who log every molt tend to have the best data.


Forgot to mention that she is probably at the 7" mark as the last molt was at 6". So I have nothing to worry about?


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## tarantulas118 (Dec 17, 2022)

Marcostaco said:


> Great thread! The growth rates on them are crazy.
> 
> Here's my T blondi's 2 previous molts. It went from 3" DLS to 5"


JESUS!! How did it even fit 2 extra inches in its exoskeleton!?!? It must’ve been hella uncomfortable living like that in pre-molt

Reactions: Funny 2


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