# Tips for keeping a tiny roach colony?



## Moakmeister (Dec 10, 2016)

Good news guys! I might be getting my first tarantula soon!  I'm planning to get one that is about 2 inches long, and I'm planning on using some .25-.5 inch long dubias as feeders. I was wondering how to keep the dubias at this size for a long time, if at all possible. As I am to understand it, dubias have a life expectancy of about two years, definitely shorter than the tarantula. This would mean they would grow faster, right? I'm planning on feeding one per week, but after a few weeks the remaining ones will have all molted, and pretty soon they'd be too big for me to feed because the tarantula would be too small. And I was planning on feeding the dubias some fish flakes and an orange slice every two days or so. Is that a good amount, or should I feed them less/more often?


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## Walker253 (Dec 10, 2016)

I feed my dubia roach chow, but feed whatever. I leave it continuously in a dish and another dish with water crystals. I check on those once a week. I also toss in on a small plate a couple of pieces of fruit cut in half. Pull the fruit before any mold appears. Mold will kill a colony. The dry food needs to remain dry. They are pretty simple.


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## Moakmeister (Dec 10, 2016)

Walker253 said:


> I feed my dubia roach chow, but feed whatever. I leave it continuously in a dish and another dish with water crystals. I check on those once a week. I also toss in on a small plate a couple of pieces of fruit cut in half. Pull the fruit before any mold appears. Mold will kill a colony. The dry food needs to remain dry. They are pretty simple.


Do the water crystals and the food need to be in a dish? I'm worried about the tiny dubias not being able to climb up into the dishes to get to the water and food. Also do they need a sbustrate of any sort, or can they just be on the plastic floor of the enclosure? And ya i was gonna use vertically stacked egg cartons as recommended.


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## EulersK (Dec 10, 2016)

I breed and sell dubias as a part time job, and here's what I've learned so far. Note that almost everything is experience based, so this will be much less fact-based than my posts about tarantulas.

A) Ironically, a small colony is more difficult to keep than a large one. When you have a colony of even just a couple thousand, they act as their own cleanup crew. The newly hatched nymphs will eat the dead before resorting to any food you offer. This is great, because you _will_ have die-offs for various reasons. Since you will be keeping a small colony, you'll need to clean more often. I clean my colonies about once every two months, you might have to do it every month or so. Just judge it - if the colony begins to smell like ammonia, then it's time to clean.

B) Keep humidity low in there. As has been said, mold will decimate a colony. Also ironically, these roaches aren't very durable. To keep humidity low, don't offer fresh food very often. They need water crystals available 24/7, as they desiccate very quickly. So, there's no avoiding that. But if you're constantly feeding fresh fruits/veggies, you'll have not only the moisture of the food but also the moisture of their frass ("feces"). When fed a diet of dry food, their frass is sand like. When fed a diet of wet food, their frass is very wet.

C) Concerning food, don't buy roach chow. Biggest ripoff I've seen in the invert hobby. You can buy a 50lb bag of unmedicated chick feed for about $15, and that will last you forever. Some places will sell it to you by the pound. Just find a farm feed store around you, most areas have at least one. Also, note that I said unmedicated chick feed. Unmedicated for obvious reasons, and chick feed to ensure high protein and high fat. Chicken feed will work, but as you can imagine, it's not as nutritious. The only reason you'd need to supplement this with fresh fruit is if you're breeding, as they appear to need vitamin C to reproduce quickly. If you just want to keep them alive, a diet of 100% unmedicated chick feed will do just fine. My non-breeding colonies survive off of this, and are always nice and plump. No need for a dish here, just pour it onto the ground.

D) Water crystals are a must. Do not buy them from a pet shop - also a total ripoff. Buy this and it'll last you over a year. Add roughly 2tbsp to a gallon of distilled water and you're ready to go. You need to put this in a dish for obvious reasons. Dubias can't climb smooth surfaces, so ensure it is a rough dish. I use cheap deli cups that I rough up with sandpaper. If you do this, be sure to rough up all surfaces - inside and out.

E) They will certainly grow faster than you'll feed them off, no doubt about that. You can help quell the growth by not offering heat and not feeding constantly. I have food available to my roaches 24/7, but I wouldn't do that if I were in your shoes. Feeding once per week would suffice. This will make them grow _much_ slower.

F) No substrate needed, but there's a caveat here. Like most roaches, if they fall onto their back, they can't get back up. You don't want any open floor space other than where the food and water is. If you have open floor space, just put in some torn up egg flats in that area. Speaking of, you can get these for free at most restaurants. Obviously target breakfast joints like Denny's. 

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1 | Informative 2 | Award 1


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## Moakmeister (Dec 10, 2016)

EulersK said:


> I breed and sell dubias as a part time job, and here's what I've learned so far. Note that almost everything is experience based, so this will be much less fact-based than my posts about tarantulas.
> 
> A) Ironically, a small colony is more difficult to keep than a large one. When you have a colony of even just a couple thousand, they act as their own cleanup crew. The newly hatched nymphs will eat the dead before resorting to any food you offer. This is great, because you _will_ have die-offs for various reasons. Since you will be keeping a small colony, you'll need to clean more often. I clean my colonies about once every two months, you might have to do it every month or so. Just judge it - if the colony begins to smell like ammonia, then it's time to clean.
> 
> ...


I do have a few. First of all, I live in a very humid city, so will that pose any problems for my roach colony? We don't normally get a lot of mold growth on our food here. Second, will fish flakes work fine as their dry food? And do I need to put any protein powder in their water crystals/food? Third, if i keep a colony of 25 medium roaches from jamiestarantulas, will they really be able to survive on just one feeding per week? And lastly, the miracle-gro water crystals look like they all need to be added to the gallon of water at once. How would i store so many water crystals for over a year?


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## Moakmeister (Dec 10, 2016)

EulersK said:


> I breed and sell dubias as a part time job, and here's what I've learned so far. Note that almost everything is experience based, so this will be much less fact-based than my posts about tarantulas.
> 
> A) Ironically, a small colony is more difficult to keep than a large one. When you have a colony of even just a couple thousand, they act as their own cleanup crew. The newly hatched nymphs will eat the dead before resorting to any food you offer. This is great, because you _will_ have die-offs for various reasons. Since you will be keeping a small colony, you'll need to clean more often. I clean my colonies about once every two months, you might have to do it every month or so. Just judge it - if the colony begins to smell like ammonia, then it's time to clean.
> 
> ...


also i was going to just keep a tub of mealworms, but i found out that mealworms are unhealthy for tarantulas


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## EulersK (Dec 10, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> I do have a few. First of all, I live in a very humid city, so will that pose any problems for my roach colony? We don't normally get a lot of mold growth on our food here. Second, will fish flakes work fine as their dry food? And do I need to put any protein powder in their water crystals/food? Third, if i keep a colony of 25 medium roaches from jamiestarantulas, will they really be able to survive on just one feeding per week? And lastly, the miracle-gro water crystals look like they all need to be added to the gallon of water at once. How would i store so many water crystals for over a year?


The humidity really shouldn't be a problem, but that's all the more reason to give them a 100% dry diet. Fish flakes will work, but that's also pretty darn expensive compared to the alternatives. I understand that you don't need 50lbs of food, that was just to demonstrate how cheap this stuff is. For feeding... they're roaches. They eat pretty much anything. If they're really that hungry, they'll just eat the egg flats. If they're _really_ hungry, they'll eat each other. So it's almost impossible to starve these things. For the crystals, you're misunderstanding. It comes in a bag of sand-like material, and you just make what you need when you need it. The bag even has a zip-lock built in for storage. Again, do not add the whole bag to a gallon of water. You'll ruin the whole thing. Only about 2tbsp of the crystals should be added to the water.

Reactions: Helpful 1


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## EulersK (Dec 10, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> also i was going to just keep a tub of mealworms, but i found out that mealworms are unhealthy for tarantulas


Where did you read that mealworms are unhealthy for tarantulas? I'd argue they're just as (if not more) healthy than dubias. They just have the added danger of burrowing and reemerging later on, but that is very easily avoided by crushing the heads... which you'll want to do with dubias anyway since they immediately burrow.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Moakmeister (Dec 10, 2016)

EulersK said:


> Where did you read that mealworms are unhealthy for tarantulas? I'd argue they're just as (if not more) healthy than dubias. They just have the added danger of burrowing and reemerging later on, but that is very easily avoided by crushing the heads... which you'll want to do with dubias anyway since they immediately burrow.


Oh sweet! Screw the dubias. I'll just keep mealworms in the fridge and once a week give them an orange slice and some fish flakes. I read somewhere that if a tarantula eats too many mealworms it can result in impaction, and that mealworms have a lot of undigestable parts in their bodies. Also, do the adults have any biting mouthparts? I guess if a mealworm pupates and emerges from the ground as a beetle, the tarantula could still kill it, but would she damage her fangs biting the beetle's hard exoskeleton?


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## EulersK (Dec 10, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> Oh sweet! Screw the dubias. I'll just keep mealworms in the fridge and once a week give them an orange slice and some fish flakes. I read somewhere that if a tarantula eats too many mealworms it can result in impaction, and that mealworms have a lot of undigestable parts in their bodies. Also, do the adults have any biting mouthparts? I guess if a mealworm pupates and emerges from the ground as a beetle, the tarantula could still kill it, but would she damage her fangs biting the beetle's hard exoskeleton?


Mealworms absolutely have mandibles. I used to crush the heads with my fingers until I got bit by a larger one. You should always, _always_ crush the heads. No exceptions. The mealworms can reemerge later while the spider is molting and turn your spider into a meal. Those mandibles become much larger when they mature into beetles, and I wouldn't ever feed one of those to a tarantula.

Crush.
The.
Heads.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Moakmeister (Dec 10, 2016)

EulersK said:


> Mealworms absolutely have mandibles. I used to crush the heads with my fingers until I got bit by a larger one. You should always, _always_ crush the heads. No exceptions. The mealworms can reemerge later while the spider is molting and turn your spider into a meal. Those mandibles become much larger when they mature into beetles, and I wouldn't ever feed one of those to a tarantula.
> 
> Crush.
> The.
> Heads.


lol i can imagine that becoming a cheer

"crush the heads! crush the heads!"


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## Moakmeister (Dec 10, 2016)

EulersK said:


> Mealworms absolutely have mandibles. I used to crush the heads with my fingers until I got bit by a larger one. You should always, _always_ crush the heads. No exceptions. The mealworms can reemerge later while the spider is molting and turn your spider into a meal. Those mandibles become much larger when they mature into beetles, and I wouldn't ever feed one of those to a tarantula.
> 
> Crush.
> The.
> Heads.


anyway, i was planning on purchasing a 2-2.5 inch _Grammostola pulchripes_ female for my first tarantula. I can't seem to find any websites that have any of those. Could you link me to a site/Arachnoboards user that does? Also, they like it to be dry, right? Since i live in a humid area, i would imagine that i wont need to ever mist the enclosure, and i should use a dry substrate. What substrate would you recommend?


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## EulersK (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> anyway, i was planning on purchasing a 2-2.5 inch _Grammostola pulchripes_ female for my first tarantula. I can't seem to find any websites that have any of those. Could you link me to a site/Arachnoboards user that does? Also, they like it to be dry, right? Since i live in a humid area, i would imagine that i wont need to ever mist the enclosure, and i should use a dry substrate. What substrate would you recommend?


I don't trust sexing at that size unless I personally know the seller. If a store guarantees a 2" spider is a female, you're probably being taken for a ride. Contact @cold blood, I'm pretty sure he still has some G. pulchripes about 2". The ones I have gotten from him are thriving. I water them down about once every other week, but that's mostly so they can drink. At 2.5" and on, you can keep it predominantly dry. As for substrates, I have a video on that here. Short answer: use coco fiber if you're just starting.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

EulersK said:


> I don't trust sexing at that size unless I personally know the seller. If a store guarantees a 2" spider is a female, you're probably being taken for a ride. Contact @cold blood, I'm pretty sure he still has some G. pulchripes about 2". The ones I have gotten from him are thriving. I water them down about once every other week, but that's mostly so they can drink. At 2.5" and on, you can keep it predominantly dry. As for substrates, I have a video on that here. Short answer: use coco fiber if you're just starting.


thanks for the advice bro. I can't seem to figure out how to send someone a direct message. Is there a way to do that, or should i post a thread and have his name in it?


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> thanks for the advice bro. I can't seem to figure out how to send someone a direct message. Is there a way to do that, or should i post a thread and have his name in it?


wait, immediately i figured it out


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## EulersK (Dec 11, 2016)

Click on his name that I tagged and then click on "Start a conversation"


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

EulersK said:


> Click on his name that I tagged and then click on "Start a conversation"


alright i just sent him a message. to be fair, G. pulchripes slings are everywhere, but theyre slings. The risk that the one i get is a male is a risk im just not gonna take.


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## EulersK (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> alright i just sent him a message. to be fair, G. pulchripes slings are everywhere, but theyre slings. The risk that the one i get is a male is a risk im just not gonna take.


Dennis gives amazing deals. Buy several. Buy four, you're pretty much guaranteed to get a female then. Buy some P. cambridgei while you're at it


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

EulersK said:


> Dennis gives amazing deals. Buy several. Buy four, you're pretty much guaranteed to get a female then. Buy some P. cambridgei while you're at it


i can only get one tarantula. i need to hide it from my roommate b/c my college dorm doesnt allow pets :/ also my mom only wants me to have one


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## EulersK (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> i can only get one tarantula. i need to hide it from my roommate b/c my college dorm doesnt allow pets :/ also my mom only wants me to have one


I still say buy four. Sell them off as they grow and you sex them. When you get a confirmed female, just sell the rest of the slings. Sorry man, it's about the only way this is going to happen.

Although, if you're in a dorm, you can't really be in the invert hobby at all. They routinely spray pesticides, and you have no say in it. Plus, if you get caught, you could be faced with some hefty fines or worse. Remember, you're bringing a _venomous_ animal into a room that isn't yours. Is this really worth the discipline that you can end up facing? Seriously, just hold off until you get your next place. This isn't fair to the spider or your roommate.

Reactions: Agree 4


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

EulersK said:


> I still say buy four. Sell them off as they grow and you sex them. When you get a confirmed female, just sell the rest of the slings. Sorry man, it's about the only way this is going to happen.
> 
> Although, if you're in a dorm, you can't really be in the invert hobby at all. They routinely spray pesticides, and you have no say in it. Plus, if you get caught, you could be faced with some hefty fines or worse. Remember, you're bringing a _venomous_ animal into a room that isn't yours. Is this really worth the discipline that you can end up facing? Seriously, just hold off until you get your next place. This isn't fair to the spider or your roommate.


my dorm doesn't spray pesticides at all. we dont even have housekeeping. of course, im not one to argue with an expert, but i thought tarantulas liked to be in the dark and keep to themselves. i was just gonna put the enclosure in a drawer, with it always cracked a bit open for ventilation, like hobbyists do. my roommate never gets in my stuff and i have no worries about him finding it. And he's never here. Also, my christmas break lasts an entire month. during that time i can make sure that my family knows how to take care of the tarantula just in case i do need to leave it at the house.


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## EulersK (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> my dorm doesn't spray pesticides at all. we dont even have housekeeping. of course, im not one to argue with an expert, but i thought tarantulas liked to be in the dark and keep to themselves. i was just gonna put the enclosure in a drawer, with it always cracked a bit open for ventilation, like hobbyists do. my roommate never gets in my stuff and i have no worries about him finding it.


My dorm didn't either when I was a freshman... until they found bedbugs and doused the place in pesticides without any notice. We're not really talking about tarantula husbandry here, we're talking about respecting things that aren't yours. You're sharing a room with someone who may be petrified of spiders. Your roommate signed up to live in a dorm that had rules in place, and you're taking it upon yourself to change those rules without him knowing. That is simply unfair to him. Further, and I can't stress this enough, that is not your room. You're sleeping there, but it's not yours. This isn't just in dorms, this is with life. If you rent a house/apartment, then it is the landlord's rules because it's _their_ property.

Many universities require that students live in the dorms their first year. If you get kicked out of the dorms for this offense, then you suddenly can't go to school. I know that this is a harmless tarantula, but what do you think administration will think when they hear you smuggled in a venomous animal? You telling them the species won't help - you smuggled in a venomous animal that grows to the size of a dinner plate. That's even worse.

Look, at the end of the day, it's your decision. You're an adult. But understand that at the least what you're doing is dishonest and unfair, and at worst could result in you not being able to attend this college.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

EulersK said:


> My dorm didn't either when I was a freshman... until they found bedbugs and doused the place in pesticides without any notice. We're not really talking about tarantula husbandry here, we're talking about respecting things that aren't yours. You're sharing a room with someone who may be petrified of spiders. Your roommate signed up to live in a dorm that had rules in place, and you're taking it upon yourself to change those rules without him knowing. That is simply unfair to him. Further, and I can't stress this enough, that is not your room. You're sleeping there, but it's not yours. This isn't just in dorms, this is with life. If you rent a house/apartment, then it is the landlord's rules because it's _their_ property.
> 
> Many universities require that students live in the dorms their first year. If you get kicked out of the dorms for this offense, then you suddenly can't go to school. I know that this is a harmless tarantula, but what do you think administration will think when they hear you smuggled in a venomous animal? You telling them the species won't help - you smuggled in a venomous animal that grows to the size of a dinner plate. That's even worse.
> 
> Look, at the end of the day, it's your decision. You're an adult. But understand that at the least what you're doing is dishonest and unfair, and at worst could result in you not being able to attend this college.


maybe i SHOULD leave it at home... that's a good point you made about the bedbugs. The good news is that off-campus dorms DO allow pets, so i could definitely bring my T to college next year.


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## EulersK (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> maybe i SHOULD leave it at home... that's a good point you made about the bedbugs. The good news is that off-campus dorms DO allow pets, so i could definitely bring my T to college next year.


Oh, leaving it at home is an option? Then just do that! Feed it when you go home, you know that they don't need to eat very often. As for off-campus dorms, be sure to find out what they define as "pets". Often times, inverts are not considered pets.

Also, don't live in a dorm if you don't have to  The cost is ridiculous in most cases. I was paying about half to rent an apartment than I did living in the dorms.


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

EulersK said:


> Oh, leaving it at home is an option? Then just do that! Feed it when you go home, you know that they don't need to eat very often. As for off-campus dorms, be sure to find out what they define as "pets". Often times, inverts are not considered pets.
> 
> Also, don't live in a dorm if you don't have to  The cost is ridiculous in most cases. I was paying about half to rent an apartment than I did living in the dorms.


Dang. I've wanted a T for years and now that i can finally get one, i have to leave it at home  I'm trying to convince myself I could keep her safe by thinking a way out of the pesticide thing, like maybe keeping her in a portable plastic cabinet that I own so they can't spray in it, but now I'm getting too carried away with this. And I checked a few months ago with the pet policy. The only pets they allow are fish. And I could've lived off campus in my freshman year, but I didn't want to, and that was before my interest in tarantulas was re-ignited.

EDIT: pfft lol i just realized they can't spray in the cabinets anyway. Those are people's underwear drawers. I could just keep her in one of those drawers and she'd be safe.


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## Chris LXXIX (Dec 11, 2016)

It's not that hard :-s

1.0 & 0.1 together, clean & fresh carrots (food/drink at the same time), no substrate aside for cricket fodder, no water dish or things like that, temperature the same of your T's, time = done. 

Babies all over the place. With crickets things are different.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

Chris LXXIX said:


> It's not that hard :-s
> 
> 1.0 & 0.1 together, clean & fresh carrots (food/drink at the same time), no substrate aside for cricket fodder, no water dish or things like that, temperature the same of your T's, time = done.
> 
> Babies all over the place. With crickets things are different.


lol i forgot this was a thread about dubias. Maybe EulersK and I should move this somewhere else.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Chris LXXIX (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> lol i forgot this was a thread about dubias. Maybe EulersK and I should move this somewhere else.


Whatever. But my Reign for Peanut, the legendary _Theraphosidae_!


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

Chris LXXIX said:


> Whatever. But my Reign for Peanut, the legendary _Theraphosidae_!


why do people still bring up Peanut

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Chris LXXIX (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> why do people still bring up Peanut


I am the *only *one that bring up Peanut, actually. Because he/she is the legendary _Theraphosidae_.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Moakmeister (Dec 11, 2016)

Chris LXXIX said:


> I am the *only *one that bring up Peanut, actually. Because he/she is the legendary _Theraphosidae_.


have you named any of your tarantulas Peanut to honor the legendary _Theraphosidae_?

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Chris LXXIX (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> have you named any of your tarantulas Peanut to honor the legendary _Theraphosidae_?


No because exists only one Peanut, man, and you were the only one lucky enough to meet him/her. I can't into blasphemy :-s


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## AmberDawnDays (Dec 11, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> maybe i SHOULD leave it at home... that's a good point you made about the bedbugs. The good news is that off-campus dorms DO allow pets, so i could definitely bring my T to college next year.


 Or just wait until next year.


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## Hisserdude (Dec 11, 2016)

There is no way for you to halt the growth of a roach without starving it, you can feed them less and keep them cooler to slow their growth down, but you can't completely halt it, and they will definitely still outgrow your T. If you decided to breed them then you'd pretty much always have small nymphs available though.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## EulersK (Dec 12, 2016)

Moakmeister said:


> EDIT: pfft lol i just realized they can't spray in the cabinets anyway. Those are people's underwear drawers. I could just keep her in one of those drawers and she'd be safe.




Man, with my story about the bed bugs, do you think they sprayed people's beds? Or even in their rooms? No, they did the hallways. I still wouldn't want my spiders anywhere near that. 

And, again, this is *not* your room. Your roommate did *not* sign up to get a spider. I'm going to be frank here: You need to respect the people around you. Just because you disagree with a rule doesn't mean you get to break it. You signed a contract with the college, so like it or not, their rules are law now.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Moakmeister (Dec 12, 2016)

EulersK said:


> Man, with my story about the bed bugs, do you think they sprayed people's beds? Or even in their rooms? No, they did the hallways. I still wouldn't want my spiders anywhere near that.
> 
> And, again, this is *not* your room. Your roommate did *not* sign up to get a spider. I'm going to be frank here: You need to respect the people around you. Just because you disagree with a rule doesn't mean you get to break it. You signed a contract with the college, so like it or not, their rules are law now.


I'll just leave it at home then. I want the best for her.


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## Cassiusstein (Dec 13, 2016)

I personally think you should still get a dubia colony, even though you can simply keep mealworms in your fridge. I've had a lot of fun growing my colony, it's nice to see all the babies popping up.

With that said, I keep mine at 90 degrees or even higher! They seemed to go absolutely nuts with the breeding as soon as I did this. 

Water crystals water crystals water crystals. When it's that hot they're gonna need a lot of water, so as long as they're using it up, add more. 

I make my food from crushed up branflakes, fish food, and a bit of random things I think they may enjoy. I offer an orange or similar citrus fruit weakly, and a bit of green veggies.

Verticle seems to be best in my opinon, plus when your eggflats are verticle all of the frass falls to the bottom as opposed to right on your flats.

Another personal thing I do is keep them pretty dark, they really don't see light unless I open the top.

Until your colony grows enough, make sure to check for dead colony members daily and remove them.

My biggest tip? Just like everything else, remember to have fun!


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## obie (Jan 11, 2017)

quick question . can you keep turkastan and dubia together in a large tote. and will the colines survive and reproduce. not with each other just living altogether


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## All About Arthropods (Jan 11, 2017)

One would eventually outcompete the other and there would just be one species left.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Ungoliant (Jan 11, 2017)

EulersK said:


> I breed and sell dubias as a part time job, and here's what I've learned so far. Note that almost everything is experience based, so this will be much less fact-based than my posts about tarantulas.


Thank you so much for this advice. I am thinking about trying dubia roaches as a primary feeder, and the money-saving tips are very much appreciated.


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