# Thread for the rest of my S. heros questions



## Pulk (May 27, 2007)

I have to decide between two sellers of S. heros castaneiceps - seller A has a 5.5" - 6" one and seller B has a full-grown 7" or so one.
With seller A's I get the opportunity to see it grow. I'll actually have time to see it period, as the other one will prolly die soon. (correct?) And because they're not full grown, it could get larger than the 7" one.
With seller B's I'll know for sure it'll get to 7", due to it already being 7", and it's $5 to $20 cheaper.
I guess it's important, then, whether 7" is smaller than average, average, or larger than average full grown length. (?)

Size matters. Opinions, anyone?

Also, which substrates are acceptable? (coco fiber, peat moss, eco earth, vermiculite, sand)
Should it have a cork bark hide? (isn't it just going to burrow?) Should it have some kind of flat rock?
Will temperature and feeding rates affect its lifespan or its final size?
How often should I spray the substrate?
As the whole lid of the cage is wire mesh, should I cover some of it with a cloth? (a damp cloth?)


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## cacoseraph (May 27, 2007)

i think centipedes are like crocodilians and they keep growing as they get older

while no one can know what something's genetic fuse length is... 7" by no means is end of life size for heros. they *can* achieve 8,9,10" but it likely takes many years and the odds of them surviving long enough to hit 10" are somewhat slim.

if size is important than i would suggest getting the larger one. it most like will still gain size on molts


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## aaandyyy5 (May 27, 2007)

Hi
Im not an expert but I keep and have kept many of these. 7" is definately not full grown. Ive had them over eight inches and Galapoheros had one over 10" I believe. I caught one when it was eight inches and had it for two years only for it to escape. It was still growing and eating well and showed no signs of slowing down. So the 7" one will still live for a while. I keep all my centipedes on a mixture of peat and perlite. A cork bark hide will be a very important thing to have. All of mine hide under them and I have never seen them burrow if they have this available. No rocks necesarry. Temperature will affect the rate at how much your pede will eat which will affect how fast it grows. "Power feeding" it to make it grow faster will decrease it's lifespan. As long as the wire mesh holes are small enough to prevent escapes then a cloth is not necessary. Hope that was helpful.

Thanks
Andy


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## Pulk (May 27, 2007)

Size right now isn't important; it's only the final size that matters.

A 7" isn't growing significantly slower than a 5.5"?
(If it is, i'll go with seller A; if it isn't, and it's not going to die within 2 years, i'll go with seller B.)
note: seller A says I imagine it is still growing, but I would expect it to grow VERY slowly at this point.

and thanks, andy, for the info


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## cacoseraph (May 27, 2007)

well

if size in two years is more important than the bigger one now will still be the bigger one in two years

while yes, the smaller one will have had more length added to it, or grown more in length in that time period the bigger one in the beginning will still be bigger in the end. and the bigger one might have added more weight/volume to itself

see, as i seee it, as centipedes increase in length, their volume is increasing at like, a higher power... so er like, if the rate of cells increasing remains constant than the speed of growing bigger has to slow too at a higher power. ah crap, i wish i could be more clear.

edit:
also, i would say both those sizes are likely adult for the species.

also, for egg laying i would say something that either supports burrows or will make an uncollapsable chamber undersubstrate is much more important than a hide.  if visibility is that much more important than getting potential captive hatch babies, then go with a hide and shallow substrate.


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## Drachenjager (May 27, 2007)

Pulk said:


> I have to decide between two sellers of S. heros castaneiceps - seller A has a 5.5" - 6" one and seller B has a full-grown 7" or so one.
> With seller A's I get the opportunity to see it grow. I'll actually have time to see it period, as the other one will prolly die soon. (correct?) And because they're not full grown, it could get larger than the 7" one.
> With seller B's I'll know for sure it'll get to 7", due to it already being 7", and it's $5 to $20 cheaper.
> I guess it's important, then, whether 7" is smaller than average, average, or larger than average full grown length. (?)
> ...


hmmm define full grown. as long as its not dead its not full grown. the 5" one could be mature as well. I  ahve seen these things over 10 and Galapoheros had one that was pushing 10" in captivity... HAD being the key lol
it escaped
so if i were you id get the one YOU like best as of now and factor in price VS size differance.


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## Pulk (May 27, 2007)

"I'm sorry, but it is no longer available."  - definitely helped me decide. (Now watch, the other one is also going to be unavailable.) :wall:


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## Drachenjager (May 27, 2007)

cacoseraph said:


> well
> 
> if size in two years is more important than the bigger one now will still be the bigger one in two years
> 
> ...


like the 4" ones look really skinny but at 4.5 look fatter then at 5 even fatter ect. 
and i agree they grow a good bit after adulthood, untill they die. and size is probably due to amount of food. i have noticed that captives are fatter than wild ones generally , i have however seen some wild ones that looked abou tto pop i think they may have been gravid females tho.


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## Stylopidae (May 27, 2007)

So much is unknown about these animals...maximum size, lifespan...etc.

Galapoheros claims to have a reliable sighting of a 16 inch pede, and I personally would believe it.

I have my S. h. cf arizonensias on about two inches of substrate and it will burrow if it wants to hide. I'm planning on raising the substrate to around 4 inches tonight.

It's about 7 or 8 inches right now and still has bright, vibrant colors so I'd say it has a long ways to go. I think I'll be able to get it up to 10 inches eventually.

Given the original choice, I'd go with the smaller one although most of my decisions are based upon price.


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## Galapoheros (May 27, 2007)

I see what you are saying Caco.  It's kind of like if you had a cup of water and add another cup of water, you see a big difference in the amount of water.  But if you keep adding cups of water, it's harder to see the volume increase with every cup that is added after the previous cup.  Right?, something like that?

I was thinking about that story about that 16 inch centipede that old couple at the Snake Farm had.  They said it touched from one end of the terr to the other when it was next to the glass.  The terr was 16 inches long.  They were probably counting the terminal legs and antennae.  So "if the story is true", it probably had a body length of around 13 or 14 inches which is still pretty much beyond what I can imagine.


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## Pulk (May 27, 2007)

I got three substrates/substrate components today, but I don't know if they're the right things, especially the coconut.

Repti Sand (very fine), moss, and coconut fiber.






The store guy suggested I mix all three - would you agree?


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## cacoseraph (May 27, 2007)

those look good. i would use something like 3 parts peat, 2 parts coco, and 1 part sand. that should make a pretty decent burrowable substrate.  that is the "chunk" coconut husk. i mix that and the more finely ground husk and it works OK for non-webbing burrowers. it works better for webbers.

basically you might still want to find the finer coconut stuff... right now you seem to be missing the kind of "dirt" type stuff that will kind of "glue" everything together.

i think.

i have never worked with sand or that peat stuff before, so i am just going off what i have read and interpolating


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## cacoseraph (May 27, 2007)

Galapoheros said:


> I see what you are saying Caco.  It's kind of like if you had a cup of water and add another cup of water, you see a big difference in the amount of water.  But if you keep adding cups of water, it's harder to see the volume increase with every cup that is added after the previous cup.  Right?, something like that?




ha! yes, that is exactly what i am saying!  that is a much more clear analogy.


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## Drachenjager (May 28, 2007)

all i use is peat moss and a flat limestone rock


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## Pulk (Jun 3, 2007)

If you get a large one (8"?) how long can you expect it to live? (caco, you said, I guess, it should live a long time. How sure are you?

Also, how confident are you (anyone) that large ones (8"?) aren't growing waaay slower than smaller ones?

see, I know I'm getting the best deal if I get a larger pede, but I'm worried it'll feel... used. I won't get the experience of having it grow, and thus it won't really feel like my pede. Thoughts?

:worship:


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## Pulk (Jun 3, 2007)

Pulk said:


> If you get a large one (8"?) how long can you expect it to live? (caco, you said, I guess, it should live a long time. How sure are you?
> 
> Also, how confident are you (anyone) that large ones (8"?) aren't growing waaay slower than smaller ones?
> 
> ...


Sorry, let me clarify that previous post, I know I've already gotten answers to similar questions. The situation is I'm planning on going for the very large one (8-9") and I just wanted confirmation that it's not going to die on me soon, and that it hasn't stopped growing. (It seems odd to me that those are both the case, but it seems they probably are; I just want to make sure again before I make this major purchase.)

tahnk yew


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## Drachenjager (Jun 3, 2007)

Pulk said:


> Sorry, let me clarify that previous post, I know I've already gotten answers to similar questions. The situation is I'm planning on going for the very large one (8-9") and I just wanted confirmation that it's not going to die on me soon, and that it hasn't stopped growing. (It seems odd to me that those are both the case, but it seems they probably are; I just want to make sure again before I make this major purchase.)
> 
> tahnk yew


there is just no way to know . i wold guess they would grow faster with more food and slower with less food, faster with steady warm temps and slower with cool spells. If you want one to grow with you get a small one about 3" or so then you can get used to it and know what to expect before it gets where it can bite like a big one lol


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## Pulk (Jun 3, 2007)

Drachenjager said:


> there is just no way to know . i wold guess they would grow faster with more food and slower with less food, faster with steady warm temps and slower with cool spells. If you want one to grow with you get a small one about 3" or so then you can get used to it and know what to expect before it gets where it can bite like a big one lol


well, i'm definitely not getting a 3" one. it's a 5-6", a 6-7", or an 8-9". but i might  only be able to get the 5-6" one.
as long as you don't think that an 8.5" _will_ grow astremely slowly and die soon, that's still my first choice. again, thoughts?


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## Drachenjager (Jun 3, 2007)

Pulk said:


> well, i'm definitely not getting a 3" one. it's a 5-6", a 6-7", or an 8-9". but i might  only be able to get the 5-6" one.
> as long as you don't think that an 8.5" _will_ grow astremely slowly and die soon, that's still my first choice. again, thoughts?


dude id buy the big one if they guarantee its that size body length


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## Pulk (Jun 12, 2007)

I finally got it today from Hatari Invertebrates. It's even way better than I expected. It came on time and well-packaged, it's exactly what I ordered, and it seems very healthy.
It's about 6 3/4" body length, and in real life it seems bigger than I expected a 7 -incher to be. It has all the legs and both antennae and everything; it looks shockingly perfect. As far as I can tell its behavior is also perfect - it went into the cage calmly but quickly, and ran around for a while, but not in a disturbingly crazy way. It's under the cork bark now, not buried, and doesn't freak out when I lift the log.
It kind of explored the burrowability of the substrate (coco husk chunks and moss) and I got the impression it's a little too chunky. (I can add more moss later when I get tired of seeing it.  ) How bad is it to not have excellent burrowing conditions for a pede but to give it a cork bark log?
Also, I don't think I'll ever need to turn on the heat pad, living where I am, but at what temperature do you think it's necessary? And I know humidity is a big deal - what kind of water dish/spraying schedule would work for it?
And, this is pushing it for someone who claims he knows enough about pedes to actually have one... but how much do you think they should be fed? I'd like to feed it as much as possible without significantly shortening the lifespan.

I'll get some pics eventually, I'm too lazy to do it right now. Just you wait!


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## Pulk (Jun 18, 2007)

It's been pretty excited about getting one large cricket per day for four or five days. It's not starved, though (as you can see). Is that odd? (It should get one or two per week, right?)

The top of the terrarium is wire mesh, so there's lots of ventilation. Is it reasonable to have a full water dish at all times and spray it well a few times a week? (the substrate is peat moss and coco chunks)

I've only had it for 6 days, so I can't assume this is its normal behavior, but last night and today it's suddenly more comfortable being visible. Before, it would make sure it was entirely covered by the hide, but right now the four back segments and the whole head/antennae are in plain sight. Should I be worried?

Is it ok for it to have a hide but not substrate it loves to burrow in?

Just peat moss is good, right?

It's 7" body length. Can it be fed a live fuzzy mouse?

How do you tell when they're in pre-molt (not just right before)? Is there any way I could retrieve one molt without depriving it of essential nutrients/energy?

How do you tell when they're dehydrated?


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## Drachenjager (Jun 18, 2007)

Pulk said:


> It's been pretty excited about getting one large cricket per day for four or five days. It's not starved, though (as you can see). Is that odd? (It should get one or two per week, right?)
> 
> The top of the terrarium is wire mesh, so there's lots of ventilation. Is it reasonable to have a full water dish at all times and spray it well a few times a week? (the substrate is peat moss and coco chunks)
> 
> ...


i have shallow substrate and a rock for it to hid under. i dont see them burrow in the wild , they are generally under rocks.


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## cacoseraph (Jun 18, 2007)

Pulk said:


> It's been pretty excited about getting one large cricket per day for four or five days. It's not starved, though (as you can see). Is that odd? (It should get one or two per week, right?)
> 
> The top of the terrarium is wire mesh, so there's lots of ventilation. Is it reasonable to have a full water dish at all times and spray it well a few times a week? (the substrate is peat moss and coco chunks)
> 
> ...



centipedes make a mess eating mice. i would put it into a feeding container with no substrate if you want to give it a fuzzy mouse.

i wouldn't steal a whole molt. i have stolen bits of them, though.

spraying on the surface of substrate does almost nothing for humidity, unless you spray a LOT. over fill the water dish, is easier.


also, don't forget to periodically look over the mesh top for chew damage. given enough time a centipede can chew through almost anything.


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## Pulk (Jun 18, 2007)

So I couldn't give it an injured cricket or something right after molting? It would be awesome to have a whole centipede molt.  
How can you tell when it's dehydrated?


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## cacoseraph (Jun 18, 2007)

Pulk said:


> So I couldn't give it an injured cricket or something right after molting? It would be awesome to have a whole centipede molt.
> How can you tell when it's dehydrated?


we don't know exactly why they eat their molts.  it is reasonable to assume they are regaining lost nutrients.  there is a small chance that captive diets don't contain all the nutrients that a WC gets and that you would be taking away their only source of something critical.  or... it could have zero impact and you could steal every single molt a centipede ever had and there would be no problems. we just don't know.

thirsty centipedes are bitey centipedes.  they attack the ground, the lid, *everything*.  this is when er, a centipede acts like a centipede, if you see what i mean


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## Pulk (Jun 18, 2007)

Ok.

Now it's 1:30 pm and it's just lying there entirely in plain sight, not really even moving. When it was moving it was walking, instead of running like it had been the past few days. Is this something to be worried about?


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## Drachenjager (Jun 18, 2007)

Pulk said:


> Ok.
> 
> Now it's 1:30 pm and it's just lying there entirely in plain sight, not really even moving. When it was moving it was walking, instead of running like it had been the past few days. Is this something to be worried about?


its seems that the more humidity and less ventilation you have the more visible they are... not sayign thats a good situation jsut seems to be the way it is lol


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## Pulk (Jun 18, 2007)

I overflowed the water dish and sprayed today, so I'll assume it's the humidity.

...

If anyone has removed a whole molt, could you let us (me) know what the results were?


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## cacoseraph (Jun 18, 2007)

Drachenjager said:


> its seems that the more humidity and less ventilation you have the more visible they are... not sayign thats a good situation jsut seems to be the way it is lol


me too.  pretty regularily i have centipedes sitting on the open that will retreat to their burrow if i startle them.  when i ran high vent rigs i had a bunch of "empty" cages.


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## cacoseraph (Jun 18, 2007)

Pulk said:


> Is this something to be worried about?


doesn't strike me as somethign to worry about.

"faceshoveling" is a bad sign. just walking around is normalish. especially in a new set up. give it a couple weeks to settle in, like. pay attn to it's habits. after a few weeks if it keeps doign the same thing every day you can kind of establish that as a baseline. if it starts doing "weird" stuff counter to that baseline you might need to like, examine things


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## Pulk (Jun 18, 2007)

I'm not sure what you mean by "faceshoveling."

It kind of examined the substrated, especially around the walls, apparently for burrowability. I guess the head was pointed downwards and maybe went under a little bit against the wall, although most of the inspection was done with the antennae. I thought that was to be expected?


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## Pulk (Jun 20, 2007)

I'm a little worried. It's entirely out of its hide now, not moving, and when I tap its legs it only shifts a little bit. How bad is overfeeding?


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## ragnew (Jun 20, 2007)

Your pede could just be adjusting to it's new enviornment. You might want to just let it hang for a bit and do what it wants to do. I'd think it'd have a better possibility of being overly stressed if it's messed with too much.

You just recieved it a few days ago right? I think it just needs time to get settled into it's new digs.


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## Pulk (Jun 20, 2007)

I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something people know to be an indicator of a problem.


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## ragnew (Jun 20, 2007)

I gotcha, and understand completely  I think your pedes just acclimating though. It's good to be on the safe side.

Enjoy your pede man! They're cool little beasties!


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## Pulk (Jun 23, 2007)

In the week and a half I've had it, I've -seen- it come out for a drink maybe 10 times. Normal?


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## Pulk (Jun 27, 2007)

three questions

how acceptable would it be to use 100% repti-sand?

is it ok for the substrate to dry out for a day or two if the dish stays filled?

the pede is looking a little crinkly (not raisin-crinkly, but not quite entirely smooth). my humidity schedule right now is spray the substrate once per week, overflow the water dish twice per week, and keep the water dish always filled. how not smooth is acceptable?

thanks


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## cacoseraph (Jun 28, 2007)

Pulk said:


> three questions
> 
> how acceptable would it be to use 100% repti-sand?


though we regularily find pedes on almost pure sand their seems to be a pretty strong feeling that it is not a great substrate in captivity. one thing, unless you set up the sand just right the pede won't be able to burrow in it... which might be what you are going for. but if that is the case you must provide a good hide and make sure the pede can't become dehydrated.



Pulk said:


> is it ok for the substrate to dry out for a day or two if the dish stays filled?


yes, generally.  maybe in winter in hideous central air depressed RH it might not be as good of an idea... but it should be fine now.



Pulk said:


> the pede is looking a little crinkly (not raisin-crinkly, but not quite entirely smooth). my humidity schedule right now is spray the substrate once per week, overflow the water dish twice per week, and keep the water dish always filled. how not smooth is acceptable?
> 
> thanks


hmm... i'm not sure what you mean. what part(s) specifically are crinkly?


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## Pulk (Jun 28, 2007)

cacoseraph said:


> though we regularily find pedes on almost pure sand their seems to be a pretty strong feeling that it is not a great substrate in captivity. one thing, unless you set up the sand just right the pede won't be able to burrow in it... which might be what you are going for. but if that is the case you must provide a good hide and make sure the pede can't become dehydrated.


i'm still a little confused about how bad it is not for them to be able to burrow, but having a hide instead.
how would the sand have to be set up to make it burrowable?
is there no danger of impaction or any sand ingestion worry?


cacoseraph said:


> hmm... i'm not sure what you mean. what part(s) specifically are crinkly?


the back.
here are some rather large photos for your examination. keep in mind they're with flash.
1
2


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## cacoseraph (Jun 28, 2007)

Pulk said:


> i'm still a little confused about how bad it is not for them to be able to burrow, but having a hide instead.
> how would the sand have to be set up to make it burrowable?
> is there no danger of impaction or any sand ingestion worry?


as far as healthfulness... a hide should be ok. my concern is for captive hatching eggs.... it *seems* like a pede in a burrow is much less inclined to randomly eat the eggs. this could be a humidity thing or something... dunno.




Pulk said:


> the back.
> here are some rather large photos for your examination. keep in mind they're with flash.
> 1
> 2


it looks ok. i think i see what you mean... instead of the tergites being completely smooth they have some ripples in them.  those tergites can flex so they don't stay perfectly smooth.  i imagine level of feeding and hydration affect them


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## Pulk (Jun 28, 2007)

in which direction will humidity and feeding affect the tergites?

does my schedule sound reasonable for 100% sand? (spray 0-1x per week, overflow 1-2x, always full dish)

and you don't know of any danger of impaction or anything? (i know it's potentially a problem with at least some reptiles)

thanks, cacoseraph 

and happy 4000th post


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## cacoseraph (Jun 28, 2007)

Pulk said:


> in which direction will humidity and feeding affect the tergites?
> 
> does my schedule sound reasonable for 100% sand? (spray 0-1x per week, overflow 1-2x, always full dish)
> 
> ...



man, 4000 really sneaks up on you!

that amount of watering should be fine, i think

i don't know about impaction.  i suspect that the chance is relatively small as a centipede's mouth is TINY compared to any reptiles... and the centipedes live on sandy substrate in nature a lot of the time..... but i sure don't know facts on it.


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## Pulk (Jun 28, 2007)

well, the thing is this sand is advertised as being too small to cause a problem for reptiles. but i think it'll be ok.


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## cacoseraph (Jun 28, 2007)

Pulk said:


> well, the thing is this sand is advertised as being too small to cause a problem for reptiles. but i think it'll be ok.


pretty much ignore everything you read on packaging.  the package designers are looking to sell a product, not tell the truth.

i mean, cedar and walnut shells are still sold as totally AOK for reptiles and i am almost certain they are not. walnut is poisonous to everything and cedar is definitely bad for inverts


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## cacoseraph (Jun 28, 2007)

Pulk said:


> in which direction will humidity and feeding affect the tergites?


i would expect that in most cases increasing feeding and humidity would allow for smoother tergites

but in your case i wouldn't go messing with settings yet. you sound like you have a pretty good setup.


also, i don't think many, if any, of my cents are totally smooth all the time. i am guessing what phase of intermolt the pede is in affects smoothness, too


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## Pulk (Jun 28, 2007)

thanks... it'll be a few weeks or so before i change the substrate.

this morning, for 1-2 seconds, its back third or so was dragging (don't remember if it was walking or running.) It seems totally fine now, but I've read the leg-dragging threads and thought it would be good to make sure that one instance isn't as bad?


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## cacoseraph (Jun 29, 2007)

without actually seeing it i can't really say

i mean, technically you haven't had it long enough to know what is weird and what is normal, so that is part of what this like, process is... 

ok, look at it this way... for almost everythign that could be wrong with a centipede the only "treatment" is to provide it with optimal living conditions... which you seem to have done... so there is no real point in worrying about like, specifics that you can't really do anything about... plus, odds are the centipede doesn't have anything wrong with it =P


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## Pulk (Jun 29, 2007)

alright... i didn't want it to die of something i could have prevented by asking someone about earlier.


story time, kids

anyway, now i understand (somewhat) why they're called escape artists. he or she was climbing around on the underside of the lid (about 7.5" from the highest point on the ground to the lid for a 7" pede).
so i had the bright idea to move the lid back a little bit a put a book in there, angled, for it to climb down. this created a tiny, tiny hole, at the other side, where it was, and proceeded to wave its antennae interestedly around there. i gently blew on it to go to the other side but instead of climbing back down on the book, it managed to climb up and onto the top of the lid through a crack only a few millimeters wide. i was lucky enough to get it to crawl off the lid back into the cage.
when it was on the roof and gnawing at the screen mesh, it sounded like it could do serious damage over time.

the book i used, by the way, is an excellent novel i read recently called "In the Night Kitchen," by Maurice Sendak.

edit: is it a good idea to put vaseline or oil or something up and down the corners in the cage?

edit edit: found my first mite or mite-type thing today, one little white thing crawling on the pede. is this something important to fix right away?


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## nissan480 (Jun 29, 2007)

No,dont put anything on the side's of the cage...Remove some of the substrate so he cant reach the top..what ever you put in the cage will wind up on your pede.NO VASOLINE,thats shite is no good

Look at this happy feller....http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/jason4201/centipedes/?action=view&current=IMG_1043.jpg



They do make some stuff called "insect-a-slip",ive never seen it for sale,or searched for it,but its made to stop the climbing....I'd bet some ky-jelly would work well,its a good lube,its non toxic and its water saluable


Personally,just remove some substrate and enjoy your pede.


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## Pulk (Jun 29, 2007)

if it happens again i'll try to find some good stuff to put on the sides. Removing substrate wouldn't help very much otherwise. 

and yeah, that's -exactly- what it looked like.


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## Pulk (Jul 2, 2007)

Yesterday and today it's been trying to get out a lot. How much is to be expected?


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## cacoseraph (Jul 2, 2007)

Pulk said:


> Yesterday and today it's been trying to get out a lot. How much is to be expected?


until i gave mine a chance to burrow i had some that would pretty much constantly try to escape.

they would climb up up up the side, then sort of tip over and slam into the substrate. to do damage control i added more substrate and left it loose to pillow the impact... but it ended up fixing the problem in a dif way... the centipedes started burrowing. heh.


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## Pulk (Jul 6, 2007)

just to have a complete set of data... the slightly crinkly tergites became perfectly smooth tergites within a few days... a little bit weird.
and he/she seems to have stopped trying to get out for the time being.

just another case to add to the centipede files

in the myriapod section this thread has the most replies


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## Pulk (Jul 19, 2007)

can pedes burrow in potting soil, or anything with a similar texture and appearance?

if so, do you have any recommendations/advice about dark dirt?


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## Pulk (Jul 19, 2007)

It was cleaning itself last night and, when it was at the butt, a grey lump/blob thing was protruding between/under the... coxopleural process parts (thanks, steven!). and the pede did its mouthpart stuff with that the same way as with the terminals, etc. It's not visible now.
It wasn't an obviously foreign object, like a totally different texture or color than the pede.
Sorry I can't describe it very well, I only saw it for a short time, without my contacts on.
Does anyone know what this could be? Is it a normal pede thing?



Pulk said:


> can pedes burrow in potting soil, or anything with a similar texture and appearance?
> 
> if so, do you have any recommendations/advice about dark dirt?


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