# Setting up a European Nightcrawler (Eisenia hortensis) vermi-composting bin



## ratluvr76 (Aug 31, 2014)

As promised, here is the way my European Nightcrawler bin is set up. I apologize for the overall quality of the pics, my only functional camera ATM is my iPad lol.

First thing you need to do is purchase two steralite storage bins of the same size. I use the ten gallon size.



Then drill or melt two rows of ventilation holes around the top of one container (top pic) and one round of drainage holes in the very bottom of the same container. I used an electric drill with, I think, a 3/8" bit but you could melt the holes with a soldering iron or a screwdriver heated on a burner of your stovetop. Be careful!



And the drainage holes...



The next thing you will need to do is prepare the substrate/ bedding for your little dirt makers...
A simple recipe I use for preparing a brand new bed is as follows:
Fill the bin approximately 1/4 full, about half way to the ventilation holes, with shredded newspaper, cut up egg crates, (the fiberboard ones not the styrofoam ones), paper towels, cardboard, toilette paper rolls... You get the idea.



Just for fun, this is what it looked like before I shredded it lol.



Since I can only load 5 photos per thread, I will continue this in the next post.

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## ratluvr76 (Aug 31, 2014)

Once you have the bedding/ substrate shredded up we need to add a few things. Add about two cups of organic compost and two cups of organic potting soil or topsoil. I use earthgro composted manure and earthgro topsoil. You can use whatever brand is available so long as you make sure it has no added chemicals, fertilizers, insecticides, or vermicides. I will also usually also add a pretty good helping of USED coffee grounds. If you don't drink coffee you could probably get some used grounds from a local Starbucks or fast food restaurant. Kind of stir it all up so the soil and compost is distributed pretty well throughout. The soil is more important, in my opinion, then the compost. The worms need the dirt for their gizzards. (Yep, they have gizzards just like a bird, and consume the dirt and coffee grounds to help digest their food.)

The next step is to moisten the paper. Add water in a little ad a time stirring it around until all of the paper is DAMP, not wet.

Now add food. Pretty much any plant based food item is acceptable. Vegetables, paper goods, fruit, grains, nuts, seeds.. You name it. You don't have to use edible portions either and your worms actually will prefer the food you put in to be past what would be considered edible.

Here are some snacking sweet peppers that went bad before I could eat them. I don't know if you can see the mold spots and decaying bits on some of them. Molds and funguses are fine in there too, the worms will eat that too. This pile is what I fed them today. If this was a new bin with only one pound of worms I would add much less.



In the past I've added mango seeds, which then sprouted in the bin and I was able to then plant... Corn cobs, veggie peels, left over hot cereals, dry cold cereal, pasta, moldy bread, unsalted nut shells, potato chips, fruit peels, plant trimmings, grape vines, apple cores, small bits of wood and wood shavings, cereal boxes, paper towels, etc etc. some things take a really long time to break down, but they'll get it eventually lol.

Things to stay away from.. Don't add them to your bin at all: shiny paper goods, like magazine pages or flyer inserts from your newspaper, oils, dairy, animal fats and proteins, onions, garlic, hot peppers, high sodium things. For instance I WOULD add cool ranch Doritos, I would NOT add salt and vinegar flavor chips...

Take your food items and bury them to about the middle of your substrate layer in a couple of spots and the interior of your bin is pretty much finished until you add your worms but you don't want to add them for about a week, this is a good time to order them though.. 

Next find something to use as risers in the bottom of the other container that you didn't put holes in. Here's what I use:



They are little bottles I get medical grade saline solution in but any similar size sturdy item will work. Place them in the four corners of your un drilled tub, like so:



You can hot glue them down if you want, I'm going to on my next build. Place your prepared bin inside the other bin on the risers and voila, you have a composting worm farm.



You can even stack them...



Still continuing to the next post....

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## ratluvr76 (Aug 31, 2014)

My worm bin, at about 4 months old, has been harvested and had my worms put in a new bed about a month and a half ago and this is what they have produced again already:




I've stirred them up a little so you can see them. They are very photo-phobic which means, if you don't know, that they do not like light... at all. I don't think that pic is close up enough but there is tons of ootheca in there along with baby worms right on up to the adults. The Eisenia hortensis (European night-crawlers) are bigger then Eisenia fetida (redworm, brandling worm, panfish worm, trout worm, tiger worm, red wiggler worm, red californian earth worm.. to name a few of the common names for them). They also eat a lot more, but are slower to reproduce. My bin, as of today's date, weighs 18 pounds. This is counting their castings, (which I'm almost ready to harvest again only one month after my first harvest), and the worms. Pretty impressive for a humble little pound of worms in only four months time!

When you add your worms put a thin layer of dry shredded newspaper on top.

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## Python (Sep 1, 2014)

That's cool. I've looked into black soldier fly composting but I can't seem to attract them. Worms might be the way to go. Is there anything organic that shouldn't be put in with them?


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## The Snark (Sep 1, 2014)

Just don't add papaya seeds. Unless you really really want a zillion papaya trees and every inch of your compost loaded with seedlings.


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## ratluvr76 (Sep 1, 2014)

I don't think anything is off limits as long as it's a plant based material... you CAN add onions, garlic and citrus but the worms tend to avoid them they don't care for those things very much, although the citrus peels are more palatable to them as long as they're kind of rotten already. If you do add citrus peels, onions, garlic or hot peppers, add them very sparingly.

---------- Post added 09-01-2014 at 03:05 AM ----------




The Snark said:


> Just don't add papaya seeds. Unless you really really want a zillion papaya trees and every inch of your compost loaded with seedlings.


no worries.. LOL if you don't take the little seedlings out they will die and the worms will eat them too.. LOL!

I wonder if throwing in a peach pit or plum pit would germinate?? hhmm....


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## The Snark (Sep 1, 2014)

ratluvr76 said:


> I don't think anything is off limits as long as it's a plant based material... you CAN add onions, garlic and citrus but the worms tend to avoid them they don't care for those things very much, although the citrus peels are more palatable to them as long as they're kind of rotten already. If you do add citrus peels, onions, garlic or hot peppers, add them very sparingly.
> 
> ---------- Post added 09-01-2014 at 03:05 AM ----------
> 
> ...


I would suspect just about anything would germinate. The environment is ideal. That made me think of a possible no no for the worms: euphorbes. Probably a good idea to exclude milk sap plant material just to stay on the safe side. Many of them pack a toxic punch. Certain plants have evolved ways to exclude competitors from their space, even to the degree of poisoning beneficials like worms. A variety of privet comes to mind and several euphorbes, especially the spurges.


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## ratluvr76 (Sep 1, 2014)

The Snark said:


> I would suspect just about anything would germinate. The environment is ideal. That made me think of a possible no no for the worms: euphorbes. Probably a good idea to exclude milk sap plant material just to stay on the safe side. Many of them pack a toxic punch. Certain plants have evolved ways to exclude competitors from their space, even to the degree of poisoning beneficials like worms. A variety of privet comes to mind and several euphorbes, especially the spurges.


good point. didn't think about that stuff...  lol


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## Mike41793 (Sep 2, 2014)

Awesome thread! I don't have the space to do this now but it's easy enough to remember the steps. Will definitely be setting one of these up in the future!


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## ratluvr76 (Sep 2, 2014)

Mike41793 said:


> Awesome thread! I don't have the space to do this now but it's easy enough to remember the steps. Will definitely be setting one of these up in the future!


My husband and I live in one room... The worm bin doubles as a nightstand next to the bed.... Truly, this takes almost no room.


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## Mike41793 (Sep 2, 2014)

ratluvr76 said:


> My husband and I live in one room... The worm bin doubles as a nightstand next to the bed.... Truly, this takes almost no room.


Planning on moving soon, so I won't have room to take it with me. Is more what I meant.


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## ratluvr76 (Sep 3, 2014)

gothcha..  well, book mark it haha!


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## Mike41793 (Sep 3, 2014)

Already subscribed so I can't lose it!


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## ratluvr76 (Sep 9, 2014)

gah, I over watered a little and added some moist food items.. the bin got a little too damp and a bunch of them started climing the walls LOL. Have to keep the lid off for a few days, let it dry out some. As long as I leave the light on in the room they are in they will not try to get out since they won't come out of the dirt if the light's on.


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## The Snark (Sep 9, 2014)

ratluvr76 said:


> gah, I over watered a little and added some moist food items.. the bin got a little too damp and a bunch of them started climing the walls LOL. Have to keep the lid off for a few days, let it dry out some. As long as I leave the light on in the room they are in they will not try to get out since they won't come out of the dirt if the light's on.


Oh well. I suppose we need to report you to the authorities: Keeps animals so poorly they climb the walls to escape.

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## ratluvr76 (Sep 9, 2014)

The Snark said:


> Oh well. I suppose we need to report you to the authorities: Keeps animals so poorly they climb the walls to escape.


indeed. LOL!


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## The Snark (Sep 10, 2014)

By the way, there are moisture and temperature meters available very cheap to help you monitor your kids and compost.


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## ratluvr76 (Sep 10, 2014)

I'll check it out but it's really easy to adjust honestly. Plus, they weren't quite drowning or anything and I check them frequently to make sure they're ok.


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## The Snark (Sep 10, 2014)

ratluvr76 said:


> I'll check it out but it's really easy to adjust honestly. Plus, they weren't quite drowning or anything and I check them frequently to make sure they're ok.


The temp and moisture monitoring helps in another way. It is possible to get your mix cooking too fast. Great for making compost (and even warming the room on those cold winter nights) but you will be feeding the worms constantly.


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## ratluvr76 (Sep 10, 2014)

ooh? that's good to know! We have a LOT... and I mean a LOT of kitchen trash, we eat a lot of vegetables and fruit lol


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## The Snark (Sep 10, 2014)

ratluvr76 said:


> ooh? that's good to know! We have a LOT... and I mean a LOT of kitchen trash, we eat a lot of vegetables and fruit lol


A little at a time. Let your nose be your guide. A really cooking compost regularly aerated can mow through the organics incredibly fast but will get uncomfortably hot for the worms. Stinky means anaerobes and things need turning more. Slightly warm in the center and just a mild earthy odor is the ideal compromise. Mix the fruit evenly with the veggies and other materials. Too much  concentration of fruit sugars will produce a pungent fermenting odor.

A normal combo composter and worm farm has the raw materials on top which you turn, aerate regularly. As they decompose they work on down for the worm feast. Once you achieve a really good balance your output of worms, castings and potting soil can be unreal. The worms get an infinite ideal food source.

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## ratluvr76 (Sep 10, 2014)

The Snark said:


> A little at a time. Let your nose be your guide. A really cooking compost regularly aerated can mow through the organics incredibly fast but will get uncomfortably hot for the worms. Stinky means anaerobes and things need turning more. Slightly warm in the center and just a mild earthy odor is the ideal compromise. Mix the fruit evenly with the veggies and other materials. Too much  concentration of fruit sugars will produce a pungent fermenting odor.
> 
> A normal combo composter and worm farm has the raw materials on top which you turn, aerate regularly. As they decompose they work on down for the worm feast. Once you achieve a really good balance your output of worms, castings and potting soil can be unreal. The worms get an infinite ideal food source.


This is what I usually go for, my bin usually has that earthy smell you are speaking of. Honestly I love checking in on them that odor is heaven to me lol.
My favourite part of keeping them is when I've got them sorted out of the castings into a new bin and I'm digging through the castings trying to get as many of the "stragglers" as I can find. Adults I've missed during the harvesting process, oothecae, baby worms. I found a few the last time were so small I thought I was looking at a ridge in my fingerprint and lo and behold it was a tiny, almost seemingly microscopic worm baby.


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## The Snark (Sep 10, 2014)

ratluvr76 said:


> This is what I usually go for, my bin usually has that earthy smell you are speaking of. Honestly I love checking in on them that odor is heaven to me lol.
> My favourite part of keeping them is when I've got them sorted out of the castings into a new bin and I'm digging through the castings trying to get as many of the "stragglers" as I can find. Adults I've missed during the harvesting process, oothecae, baby worms. I found a few the last time were so small I thought I was looking at a ridge in my fingerprint and lo and behold it was a tiny, almost seemingly microscopic worm baby.


A labor of love that is best undertaken by the dedicated student of meditation. My preferred method is a few hours set aside, very bright light and a short tined rake or hand cultivator. I don't like using the sun as worms could never be called highly intelligent and the babys are even worse at getting baked. A bright light like a 500 watt halogen light about 18 to 24 inches above works quite well, then just ***slowly*** rake back and forth, giving the worms time to burrow. If there is room available you can also divide the containers, providing fresh food at one end and depriving food at the other so they migrate. That is a fairly common method at commercial worm farms.

I'm going to bore you with an anecdote. A friend was seriously into organic gardening. He was also, I suppose, doomed by the fates to have things go wrong or get very weird. He built a serious of wood troughs for his worms and did exactly as you described. And completely failed to raise a single worm. I helped him knock the troughs apart to supply redwood lumber to repair his shed. It seems that redwood is more than rot resistant. 

Take 2 was building troughs of marine plywood then he lined them with heavy plastic tarps. Too bad he didn't think of the tarps with the first troughs. He then canvassed our little town for organic garbage he supply containers for and was quickly inundated in worm food. So much so he had to start a large compost pile.

Seriously getting into the swing of things once his veggie garden was off and booming her decided to get into bonsais. From experience, allow me to assure you it only takes a few tablespoonfuls of worm castings to give a medium sized bonsai enough nutrition to last several decades. A bit of trial and error went on with his new future bonsai garden. He finally decided to make a concrete series of basins much like a fish pond in his yard and fill them with a little of the castings, decomposed granite and etc.

He really got into things then, rounding me and my monster military truck to collect several tons of attractive rocks from the nearby beaches. The garden was seriously showing promise.

Then he got called. His dream job had opened up. Unfortunately it was in a city 35 miles away and he would be pulling 12 hour graveyards as well as on call 24/7. He had no choice but to let the garden idle, rent his house, and move closer to work.

And then the fates intervened. Among his selected future bonsai plants he installed in one of the basins was a Doug fir. He still insists is was just a series of highly improbable circumstances but we both knew better. The Norns were going to have their fun. 

The Doug fir, the base layer of worm castings, a crack in the concrete and the septic tank directly below. I got called up for fire duty and got shuffled from camp to camp for nearly 6 months. When I finally got home I went and checked on his yard. There in the midst of the bonsais was a tree taller than my head.

So dial things forwards 15 years to the present. Where the worm troughs were which had decomposed and broke open and the compost pile was a riot of lush growth and greenery one normally only finds in tropical jungles, except around the Doug fir which at 80 feet has become the worlds tallest bonsai.

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## bhoeschcod (Oct 16, 2014)

Cool, I have myself a Red Wiggler bin [or at least that's what I think they are] and I have had it for almost a year. Only started with a few worms and now have over 600-1000 or so, it's hard to count because the baby worms are so small. I have a ton of Cocoons as well, which are what the eggs are called.


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## ratluvr76 (Oct 17, 2014)

bhoeschcod said:


> Cool, I have myself a Red Wiggler bin [or at least that's what I think they are] and I have had it for almost a year. Only started with a few worms and now have over 600-1000 or so, it's hard to count because the baby worms are so small. I have a ton of Cocoons as well, which are what the eggs are called.


the egg cases are actually called Ootheca

follow this link...
 Ootheca - Definition and More from the Free Merriam-Webster Dictionary
 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>                                  http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/ootheca                                <<<<<<<<

I really enjoy my worms, they get rid of all of my kitchen trash and when I take good care of them, I'm rewarded with a nutrient rich soil additive for my plants which then grow like insane weeds on crack!


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## Akai (Oct 17, 2014)

What are the best worms for composting and making a lot of worm castings?  I've peeked into Uncle Jims and it looks like I can get a whole setup for pretty cheap.  I know nothing about worms but I know that worm castings are black gold for plants and my wife would love that.  Plants are her thing.  lol


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## ratluvr76 (Oct 17, 2014)

Akai said:


> What are the best worms for composting and making a lot of worm castings?  I've peeked into Uncle Jims and it looks like I can get a whole setup for pretty cheap.  I know nothing about worms but I know that worm castings are black gold for plants and my wife would love that.  Plants are her thing.  lol


Although I've only kept the European nightcrawlers, (Eisinia hortensis), they were my first choice because although they grow a little slower, they are quite a bit bigger and so are more suitable to use for fishing, . I think the regular "red wrigglers" actually do compost a little quicker. When I was researching my bins I have seen some people advise keeping both species in the same bin. From what I had found, one feeds closer to the middle of the bin while the other tends to feed closer to the bottom. Either way, your wife will love being able to use the castings in her garden. Just make sure she knows, if she doesn't already, that they are a soil additive and most plants should not be planted directly into them. They are too rich for most plants. 
Enjoy your worms, you won't regret it. Well, your wife won't anyway...


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