# Red's Arboreal Builds.



## Red Eunice (Mar 22, 2017)

So, instead of creating a new thread each time I'll just add new builds on here.
 When it comes to arboreals, I personally, will build from acrylic sheets and normally 3 sizes. The size of the enclosure  will determine the acrylic thickness I use. I've built using .080" up to .220", but .160",.180" are used most often. The 2 most often used thicknesses cost $65 for a full sheet (48"X96") and depending on enclosure size will yield many. IMO, .250" is overkill, costly and heavy, might as well modify an aquarium, less costly. 
 I use a 2 part epoxy specifically made for use on plastics and sets in 20 minutes. From sheet to finished enclosure, actual hands on time, requires less than 1 hour to build. 
 One DOES NOT need power equipment nor a lazer to build from scratch, although they do speed up the process. Use of a straight edge, hand clamps, a sharp edged surface, razor knife and patience, result in clean, straight cuts. I'm referencing the "score-n-snap" method, I built my first ones in this manner. I found them to be as good looking as the ones I currently build w/h power equipment. 
 I prefer using brass hardware for 3 reasons, durability, they're eye appealing and cost less than acrylic ones. Lowes is a 5 minute drive and always have them in stock, no S&H charges.
 Well, enough of that and on to yesterday's builds. 7"X7"X15" pair, thickness .120" material, a partial sheet that was given to me. Can't pass up free acrylic, besides I've got 5 rehousings in the near future.

Reactions: Like 9


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## Ghost56 (Mar 22, 2017)

Looks great, but I've had a horrible time with custom acrylic lids on glass tanks warping insanely bad even with 3/16" thick acrylic. Do you have any trouble with these warping?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## photographer11 (Mar 22, 2017)

Those are perry cool.   I was curious about the warping as well.


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## photographer11 (Mar 22, 2017)

These enclosures are cool.



Ghost56 said:


> Do you have any trouble with these warping?


I was wondering the same thing


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## obie (Mar 22, 2017)

I can never get straight lines when I'm dealing with acrylic and hand tools. Any tips


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## Ghost56 (Mar 22, 2017)

obie said:


> I can never get straight lines when I'm dealing with acrylic and hand tools. Any tips


Ditch the hand tools, and go with the score n snap method. It works way better for me than a dremel does.


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## Red Eunice (Mar 23, 2017)

Ghost56 said:


> Looks great, but I've had a horrible time with custom acrylic lids on glass tanks warping insanely bad even with 3/16" thick acrylic. Do you have any trouble with these warping?


 Thank you.
 The first builds using .080", the doors did warp so live prey escaped, but not the occupant. Only warping thats occurred so far are the doors not on the main box. I simply affixed a strip of extruded aluminum to the doors latch side and solved the prey escapes. Had I thought ahead and used acrylic angle, they would be more eye appealing. 
 Photo of early build using .080" and using the aluminum stiffeners. I now use .180" acrylic when building this size enclosure, very solid and doors still seal straight.
 As far as using it on the top of say an aquarium w/o a brace of sorts, will warp over time. 3/16" mics at .184" and is what I have on 5 gl. and 2.5 gl. aquariums there may be warping, but I haven't noticed it. Yet.  
 Using acrylic horizontally, thicker is better and depending on the span may still need bracing. On a 10-20 gl. aquarium I would use either. 220" or .250" and not be concerned about warping/bowing. Also price on acrylic above .220" dramatically increases in price. Might be cheaper to have a piece of glass custom cut instead. See what I'm getting at?

Reactions: Like 2


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## viper69 (Mar 25, 2017)

Looks nice as usual.  I bet the plastic hasps are more pricey because of the oil required to make plastic..could be wrong.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Ratmosphere (Mar 25, 2017)

Very nice looking enclosures!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Red Eunice (Mar 25, 2017)

viper69 said:


> Looks nice as usual.  I bet the plastic hasps are more pricey because of the oil required to make plastic..could be wrong.


 Thanks.
 That could very well be the reason.
 2 pair of brass hinges are $1.89, hasps are $.79 each. Cheaper, I rough up the surface w/h the Dremel to aid the adhesion. No failures so far. 

@Ratmosphere Thank you, they're fun to build.


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## Belegnole (Mar 25, 2017)

Good job, those are nice looking. I'm looking into using glass for a new build or two as I have a growing dislike for plastics.

Reactions: Like 1


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## viper69 (Mar 25, 2017)

Red Eunice said:


> Thanks.
> That could very well be the reason.
> 2 pair of brass hinges are $1.89, hasps are $.79 each. Cheaper, I rough up the surface w/h the Dremel to aid the adhesion. No failures so far.
> 
> @Ratmosphere Thank you, they're fun to build.


That's significant.

Funny, I thought this thread was going to be called "Red's Arboreal Ordering Service"

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Xafron (Apr 9, 2017)

@Red Eunice I am not a handyman so am not familiar with this kind of thing.  Is the epoxy for attaching the sheets together after they have been cut/snapped, like aquarium glass panels?  Do you or anyone have a certain kind you use?  Just asking because I wonder if all of them are T safe.

Did not know about score and snap for acrylic...closest thing to what you used that I see on Lowe's website is 0.118-in x 36-in x 72-in clear acrylic sheet for about $70.  Would that work fine?  Is it difficult to score and snap a piece so large?  Also found 0.118 x 12 x 24 cast acrylic on Amazon...if buying smaller pieces makes that easier.


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## viper69 (Apr 9, 2017)

Xafron said:


> @Red Eunice I am not a handyman so am not familiar with this kind of thing.  Is the epoxy for attaching the sheets together after they have been cut/snapped, like aquarium glass panels?  Do you or anyone have a certain kind you use?  Just asking because I wonder if all of them are T safe.
> 
> Did not know about score and snap for acrylic...closest thing to what you used that I see on Lowe's website is 0.118-in x 36-in x 72-in clear acrylic sheet for about $70.  Would that work fine?  Is it difficult to score and snap a piece so large?  Also found 0.118 x 12 x 24 cast acrylic on Amazon...if buying smaller pieces makes that easier.


If you are a very good handy man, scoring will work, not the best. If you aren't that good, scoring will turn out not the greastest IME. I cut all my acrylic. Only little squres get scored by me.

@Red Eunice is definitely the go to person for arboreal building. It's just a matter of time before the web has  "Red's Emporium- Arboreals and More"

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Xafron (Apr 9, 2017)

Red Eunice said:


> score-n-snap





viper69 said:


> If you are a very good handy man, scoring will work, not the best. If you aren't that good, scoring will turn out not the greastest IME. I cut all my acrylic. Only little squres get scored by me.
> 
> @Red Eunice is definitely the go to person for arboreal building. It's just a matter of time before the web has  "Red's Emporium- Arboreals and More"


@viper69 what is your method for cutting exactly?  Do you use the little saw on the dremel or something else?  Was looking at dremels and theres a one-speed for like $30 bucks.


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## viper69 (Apr 9, 2017)

Xafron said:


> @viper69 what is your method for cutting exactly?  Do you use the little saw on the dremel or something else?  Was looking at dremels and theres a one-speed for like $30 bucks.


DO NOT get the 1 speed model. I use a coping saw for some pieces, and a Dremel for others.

You will find a Dremel spins at RPMs that basically melt acrylic, it appears you are cutting, tech. you aren't, you are melting. A 1 speed model would not be useful, you need the variable speed.

@EulersK is a DREMEL PRO, he has experimented far more than I have with it. He's the go to person more so than me IMO.

Reactions: Like 2 | Helpful 1


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## EulersK (Apr 9, 2017)

Xafron said:


> @viper69 what is your method for cutting exactly?  Do you use the little saw on the dremel or something else?  Was looking at dremels and theres a one-speed for like $30 bucks.


Yeah, what viper said, don't get the single speed model. I use a two speed model (15k and 30k RPM), and it works just fine. It was about $50 and it came with a bit set of everything you'll need.

Do not use the saw blades or diamond cutoff wheels! They both crack acrylic. Use the fiberglass cutoff wheels and set your speed to 30k. You'll have to cut pretty slowly, but a steady hand will give you a decent cut. It's nowhere near precise enough to build solid acrylic enclosures, but it's more than good enough to create lids for modifying screen tops or plastic bins. I have an in-depth tutorial on my YouTube channel; I won't put it here because I don't want to hijack a thread, but it's in the video where I make enclosures out of Really Useful Boxes.

Reactions: Like 2 | Helpful 1


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## viper69 (Apr 9, 2017)

EulersK said:


> Yeah, what viper said, don't get the single speed model. I use a two speed model (15k and 30k RPM), and it works just fine. It was about $50 and it came with a bit set of everything you'll need.
> 
> Do not use the saw blades or diamond cutoff wheels! They both crack acrylic. Use the fiberglass cutoff wheels and set your speed to 30k. You'll have to cut pretty slowly, but a steady hand will give you a decent cut. It's nowhere near precise enough to build solid acrylic enclosures, but it's more than good enough to create lids for modifying screen tops or plastic bins. I have an in-depth tutorial on my YouTube channel; I won't put it here because I don't want to hijack a thread, but it's in the video where I make enclosures out of Really Useful Boxes.



Maybe make a specific video on the Dremel itself, and why one may use it, plus/minus etc. I forget if you have made exactly one on that. I don't recall what was in the RUB lid cutting box, hence this reply.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## EulersK (Apr 9, 2017)

viper69 said:


> Maybe make a specific video on the Dremel itself, and why one may use it, plus/minus etc. I forget if you have made exactly one on that. I don't recall what was in the RUB lid cutting box, hence this reply.


Yeah, I went over very basic stuff with the Dremel in that video. I really should make a dedicated Dremel video, you're right. Such a great tool for this hobby.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Xafron (Apr 9, 2017)

EulersK said:


> Yeah, I went over very basic stuff with the Dremel in that video. I really should make a dedicated Dremel video, you're right. Such a great tool for this hobby.


I would love that.  The model number you use too would be nice.


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## The Snark (Apr 9, 2017)

Excuse me. All you primitive tribesmen and women. Dremel be series wound motor in a spiffity package.  Adjust speed infinitely with light dimmer.
Hinteshness: Always start series wound motors at full throttle then dial em back.

For the more psychotic who doesn't want to barf up $5 for a light diddler, meketh yer owne. The Quadrac is a dork. Just grab a triac-diac pair.

Reactions: Lollipop 1


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## Red Eunice (Apr 11, 2017)

Xafron said:


> @Red Eunice I am not a handyman so am not familiar with this kind of thing.  Is the epoxy for attaching the sheets together after they have been cut/snapped, like aquarium glass panels?  Do you or anyone have a certain kind you use?  Just asking because I wonder if all of them are T safe.
> 
> Did not know about score and snap for acrylic...closest thing to what you used that I see on Lowe's website is 0.118-in x 36-in x 72-in clear acrylic sheet for about $70.  Would that work fine?  Is it difficult to score and snap a piece so large?  Also found 0.118 x 12 x 24 cast acrylic on Amazon...if buying smaller pieces makes that easier.


Handyman?? Everyone is a handyman to a certain degree. Lol!
1) The Loctite epoxy I use has yet to pose health hazards and is formulated for plastics. Glass tank manufacturer's use silicone, watertight, and framework for structural integrity. Don't use Tub-n-Tile silicone as it contains fungi/germicides.
2) I have a local sign manufactoring shop that I purchase full size acrylic sheets from. Examples: (4'X8' sheets) .118" @$48, .160" @$58, .180" @$65
3) Using .118", personally I'd build up to an 6"X6"X12" arboreal enclosure. The door size, 6"X7", may still warp slightly though, enough for small prey to escape.
4) Score-n- snap, you must score over half the material thickness to get a clean and straight break. Yes, I've done this w/h full sized sheets, quite tedious work. I'd love to own an 8' box-n-pan brake then I'd strictly use the score-n-snap method. I DO score-n-snap the height dimension then width/depth are cut on the table saw. Door cuts are on the band saw, kerfs are 3/32" and need a light sanding to remove the burring it produces.
5) Using a Dremel, I've models 3000 & 4200, produces less than acceptable cuts, irregardless what type discs I've tried or rpms used. Dremels are an excellent tool for any hobbiest, 1000s of uses, just buy a multi speed one. I bought the 1/8" glass hole cutting bit, using turbine oil @ 15K rpm, ground nearly perfect holes. Had to lightly remove the sharp edges w/h a non ferrous grinding stone though.
 Hope the info is helpful. Be patient and good luck on the build.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## soldierof4cheese (May 4, 2017)

Sweet builds!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Red Eunice (Oct 14, 2017)

First off, NOT an arboreal scratch build, but a build nonetheless.
Requiring a larger enclosure for an upcoming rehouse I built a 4" wide 6" long by 3" deep acrylic one yesterday.
This acrylic, from scrap pieces, all measure .100" in thickness. Since its a small build this thickness won't warp over time.
Step by step photos,  no I haven't the time or patience to create a video, of the build. One step, yet to accomplish, is a few vent holes drilled in the lid. Why the lid and not the sides? It'll house P. maximus scorpion with a small water dish for its drinking pleasure.

Ok, step one, affix tape and draw lines. Makes it easier to see when cutting on the band saw. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Step two. Carefully cut, on the lines, each piece. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Step three, can be omitted if your cuts are very straight, smooth the edges. I use this Dremel router attachment, great for small pieces. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Step four. Epoxy the ends & sides together at 90°, a square is handy, using tape to hold in place. Its 20 minute set time so you can adjust the fit. Leave be for an hour, while waiting, fire up the grill or feed some inverts. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Step five. Same as step four, but creates the rectangle. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Step six. Mix a larger amount of epoxy, apply all around the edges, place base in position. Carefully placing tape to keep firmly in place. Wait another hour. Ho hum!
	

		
			
		

		
	



Step seven. Attaching the hardware. I apply the hinges and hasp to the door first, just because. Another hour wait, guess I'll cut the grass now. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Step eight. Apply epoxy to the staple and hinges. Position the lid/top and tape in place. One hour to go. Yahoo! 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Step nine. The waiting is over. Remove the tape and DONE! 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Hopefully, this will encourage more people to try a "scratch" build. Easy, cheaper than store bought, gives a sense of accomplishment, doesn't require expensive equipment or special skills and practically anyone can build one.
Now, totally complete, drilled vent holes.


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## soldierof4cheese (Oct 15, 2017)

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24343&catid=597


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