# First time owner: Tarantula won't come out



## sultsina (Oct 3, 2017)

Hi everyone! It's been a long time since I've last been active on this site, in my previous (also first) post I asked for advice on choosing a good beginner species. (A big thanks to everyone for help and suggestions!) That was months ago, so a lot has happened since then. 

Shortly put, this is was happened: I spent ages looking for a good place to buy my first T. Ended up finding a seller in my home country. Went to the store, checked out what they had to offer. Spent a few hours on deciding whether to buy. Made the decision, took home my new pet. 
   The tarantula I chose is a female, sub-adult B. Kahlenbergi. So far, I'm very happy with my decision. Recently though, I've started worrying. Over two weeks ago she hid herself in a hideout I had just bought for her, blocked the opening with substrate and I haven't seen her since. I wasn't concerned at first, having read numerous stories of Ts spending weeks or more inside their burrows, barricading themselves in order to molt in peace, and so on. But, considering the fact that she's not yet fully grown, the amount of time she's spent hidden really stresses me out. Additionally, in the 2+ weeks I had owned her before she hid herself, she had only eaten like 2 or 3 times. After that she refused food, which should be normal pre-molt behavior as far as I know, but being a newbie and having had her for such a short time, I've found my stress just increasing and increasing the longer she stays hidden. 

This is where I need help from you, as at this point I really can't tell if something's actually wrong, or am I just being neurotic? I've had the urge to just lift the hideout and check on my T, but I decided I'd rather consult all you more experienced folks first and not risk disturbing her in case she's molting. This whole situation has really been wrecking my nerves, most of all because just the thought that I might find her dead is enough to get me really upset. 

Here's some more info about what's happened during the time I've owned her:
in the first week, I had some trouble with her enclosure. Just a couple of days after I bought her, I changed her substrate. This is because the container I bought her in was bedded with peat, which has in the past caused me mild breathing problems. So, I do the whole cleaning procedure and replace the peat with coconut fiber. I also place in a hideout, made out of a coconut shell, fitting, right? I put my T back in, and after a few hours of adjusting she's happily looking around and soon digs a new burrow under the coconut husk. 
   Soon after, I'm replacing the substrate _again_, because as I got to know, a coconut hideout + moisture = mold. At this point I'm already getting kind of nervous, fearing that all this might have caused stress and therefore harm to my T. Soon, she stopped eating. Before she had quite readily taken the mealworms I offered her. 
   Some time later, I get her a new hideout, (this time its mold-proof). In a day she's already blocked the entrance with substrate. The next day, I make the mistake of removing the hideout and trying to get the T to eat (unsuccessfully) as she hadn't eaten in like a week. I put the hideout back in and the next day, she's blocked the entrance again.

So yeah, this is the situation I'm in now. Basically, to me the whole thing seems like pre-molt behavior, but the amount of time she's spent hidden and not having eaten really stresses me out. All advice is greatly appreciated.


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## miss moxie (Oct 3, 2017)

Well a little stress won't kill your T. They aren't like rabbits where their little hearts give out and they go into shock, then die. We don't know how stress may or may not affect an impending molt, though. Brachypelma are generally a slow growing species, and have slower metabolisms. If your girl was already well fed and ate for you a couple of times then she's not going to starve to death. She very well could be in pre-molt. My female B. emilia refused food for four months and spent over a week with a black bum before she molted. I'm not familiar with the growth rate of B. kahlenbergi specifically but if they're anything like B. hamorii then it takes them a while to do just about everything. They take their time.

Unfortunately, while tarantulas can be incredibly fascinating...there are also long bouts between those fascinating times where they just don't do much of anything at all.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1


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## darkness975 (Oct 3, 2017)

sultsina said:


> am I just being neurotic?


Most likely this. 

Since we're on the topic though I have to ask how much "moisture" is in there that you experienced molding?  They originate from Mexico if I am not mistaken, which is a far cry from a tropical rain forest. 

You should not be chasing specific temperatures or humidity.


Rautaketju!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## chanda (Oct 3, 2017)

Relax. She's probably fine. It is very common for tarantulas to barricade themselves in their hides - and not always when in premolt! My local Aphonopelma sp. have been known to barricade themselves for up to a couple of months - and sometimes emerge unchanged. Some spiders will eat right up until they are ready to molt while others will refuse food for weeks or even months pre-molt. Some will barricade themselves or hide in their burrows and others will just molt right out in the open. Whether she is molting or not, the barricaded entry to her hide is her way of telling you "Do not disturb!" Respect her wishes and leave her alone. Hold off on feeding her until you see her out and about again - and, if she has molted, give her a week or so post-molt for her fangs to harden completely before offering food. Keep the water dish full even if she is hiding away in her burrow. She may choose to slip out at night for a drink - particularly if she is just sulking in her room like a moody teenager and not actually pre-molt - but even if she does not come out and drink, the water in the dish will help to keep her ambient humidity up. (As long as she has a full water dish, you don't need to keep her substrate wet. Letting it dry out will help with mold problems. You can overflow the water dish occasionally to give her an area with higher moisture if she chooses to use it, while still keeping the rest of the substrate dry.) Whether she is stressed and sulking because of the frequent substrate and hide changes or just seeking a little privacy for a molt, give her time and resist the urge to lift her hide and peek. In either case, the best thing for her is peace and quiet - and time. Sooner or later, she will emerge - possibly a size larger than before.

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 5


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## Poec54 (Oct 3, 2017)

They have slow metabolisms and don't eat like mammals.  The only time food is critical is post-molt, when they've lost most of their reserves.  What is always important is a full, clean water bowl. 

Put in the food and let the spider hunt for it, that's what they do.  They know it's there, if it's not eaten within a few minutes the spider's probably not hungry.  Certainly within a few hours you can take out uneaten prey.  That's usually a sign of an impending molt, although it could also indicate the room is too cold.  NEVER let live mealworms or superworms loose in a spider's cage; they resurface later and sometimes chew holes in molting tarantulas. 

If they seal up their retreat, that means they're not accepting guests and they don't think what they're doing is any of your business.  Respect their rights.  What are you afraid she's doing in there?  They've managed to go millions of years without humans checking up on them in their burrows.  That little patch of dirt is all they have in the world to call their own.  As you will learn, patience is a big part of this hobby.

Reactions: Thanks 1 | Agree 5


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## sultsina (Oct 3, 2017)

darkness975 said:


> Most likely this.
> 
> Since we're on the topic though I have to ask how much "moisture" is in there that you experienced molding?  They originate from Mexico if I am not mistaken, which is a far cry from a tropical rain forest.
> 
> ...


After the mold incident I reduced the moisture level quite a bit, haven't had problems on that front since. Interestingly though, the mold only showed up on the coconut hide and seemingly didn't spread on the substrate at all. Pretty ironic, how I was scared the enclosure would get too dry and tried my best to be precise, but ended up creating a tropical climate in stead...


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## darkness975 (Oct 3, 2017)

sultsina said:


> After the mold incident I reduced the moisture level quite a bit, haven't had problems on that front since. Interestingly though, the mold only showed up on the coconut hide and seemingly didn't spread on the substrate at all. Pretty ironic, how I was scared the enclosure would get too dry and tried my best to be precise, but ended up creating a tropical climate in stead...


All you need is a full water dish my friend.  Keep it topped off and you're good. 

Don't chase numbers,  you'll kill it that way.


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## sultsina (Oct 3, 2017)

chanda said:


> Relax. She's probably fine. It is very common for tarantulas to barricade themselves in their hides - and not always when in premolt! My local Aphonopelma sp. have been known to barricade themselves for up to a couple of months - and sometimes emerge unchanged. Some spiders will eat right up until they are ready to molt while others will refuse food for weeks or even months pre-molt. Some will barricade themselves or hide in their burrows and others will just molt right out in the open. Whether she is molting or not, the barricaded entry to her hide is her way of telling you "Do not disturb!" Respect her wishes and leave her alone. Hold off on feeding her until you see her out and about again - and, if she has molted, give her a week or so post-molt for her fangs to harden completely before offering food. Keep the water dish full even if she is hiding away in her burrow. She may choose to slip out at night for a drink - particularly if she is just sulking in her room like a moody teenager and not actually pre-molt - but even if she does not come out and drink, the water in the dish will help to keep her ambient humidity up. (As long as she has a full water dish, you don't need to keep her substrate wet. Letting it dry out will help with mold problems. You can overflow the water dish occasionally to give her an area with higher moisture if she chooses to use it, while still keeping the rest of the substrate dry.) Whether she is stressed and sulking because of the frequent substrate and hide changes or just seeking a little privacy for a molt, give her time and resist the urge to lift her hide and peek. In either case, the best thing for her is peace and quiet - and time. Sooner or later, she will emerge - possibly a size larger than before.


Thanks so much for the advice, honestly I'm already feeling way calmer. 
So far I've provided the moisture by giving a spray on one of the container walls. After removing the coconut hide and starting to spray less water, the moisture has seemed fine. Still, do you think I should switch to a water dish in stead?


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## sultsina (Oct 3, 2017)

Poec54 said:


> They have slow metabolisms and don't eat like mammals.  The only time food is critical is post-molt, when they've lost most of their reserves.  What is always important is a full, clean water bowl.
> 
> Put in the food and let the spider hunt for it, that's what they do.  They know it's there, if it's not eaten within a few minutes the spider's probably not hungry.  Certainly within a few hours you can take out uneaten prey.  That's usually a sign of an impending molt, although it could also indicate the room is too cold.  NEVER let live mealworms or superworms loose in a spider's cage; they resurface later and sometimes chew holes in molting tarantulas.
> 
> If they seal up their retreat, that means they're not accepting guests and they don't think what they're doing is any of your business.  Respect their rights.  What are you afraid she's doing in there?  They've managed to go millions of years without humans checking up on them in their burrows.  That little patch of dirt is all they have in the world to call their own.  As you will learn, patience is a big part of this hobby.


Thanks for the advice. Luckily, I already knew not to let the worms loose in the enclosure. Those guys burrow amazingly fast. I think I might switch to small crickets once the spider shows itself again. 

Thinking back it already seems I was getting stressed out for nothing, I just have the tendency to be constantly worried and always assume the worst, that's probably the case here too...


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## Tanner Dzula (Oct 3, 2017)

like said above, i wouldn't worry too much. 

i have a B. Vagans right now that i have not seen out of her hide for 3 months! and she's just a little girl, only ~2.5" legspan.  thankfully she left me a window at the back of her hide, so its easy to check up on her, and she's doing fine, but sometimes spiders just do these things. 

as long as you keep a full water dish, then they should be good. if they need it they will come out and drink/hunt for food. until then, just sit back an enjoy your temporary pet hole

Reactions: Like 1


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## chanda (Oct 3, 2017)

sultsina said:


> Thanks so much for the advice, honestly I'm already feeling way calmer.
> So far I've provided the moisture by giving a spray on one of the container walls. After removing the coconut hide and starting to spray less water, the moisture has seemed fine. Still, do you think I should switch to a water dish in stead?


Yeah, a water dish is better if your spider doesn't take exception to it. I do have some spiders that seem to regard the water dish as their own personal nemesis, dumping it out, webbing over it, filling it with substrate, or overturning it every time I have the nerve to clean it out and refill it. For them, a damp spot in the general vicinity of the water dish is the best I can manage. But if you can convince your spider to allow water to be in the dish, it is less susceptible to mold than damp substrate, is easier for the spider to drink from, and will resist drying out longer.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Nonnack (Oct 3, 2017)

You shouldn't worry. My B.smithi (it was about 6cm) dug a big hole, barricaded, and spend there about 6 weeks.

Reactions: Like 4


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## Ungoliant (Oct 3, 2017)

sultsina said:


> Thanks for the advice. Luckily, I already knew not to let the worms loose in the enclosure. Those guys burrow amazingly fast.


Crush their heads, and they won't burrow.

Reactions: Like 1


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## darkness975 (Oct 3, 2017)

sultsina said:


> Thanks so much for the advice, honestly I'm already feeling way calmer.
> So far I've provided the moisture by giving a spray on one of the container walls. After removing the coconut hide and starting to spray less water, the moisture has seemed fine. Still, do you think I should switch to a water dish in stead?


Give it a full water dish.  Keep it always full.  Stop spraying the sides.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Hiruma26 (Oct 3, 2017)

Yeah...they're not gonna be like "how heck am i gonna get out of here?!". If they can close/barricade their burrow, they can also open it whenever they want.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## FrDoc (Oct 3, 2017)

Moi! You're not alone, I haven't seen my juvenile L.P. for over a week.


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## darkness975 (Oct 3, 2017)

Some of mine disappear for weeks or months.  Hardly a cause for concern so long as the specimens in question are healthy to the best of my knowledge.


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## Starbeaver (Oct 3, 2017)

Very informative reading as a total newbie myself.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Poec54 (Oct 3, 2017)

sultsina said:


> Thinking back it already seems I was getting stressed out for nothing, I just have the tendency to be constantly worried and always assume the worst, that's probably the case here too...


Relax and enjoy the hobby.  The key things are a full clean water bowl, deep enough substrate so that the spider won't be injured if it falls from the sides, along with no hard objects near the sides, reasonable room temps and the cage away from cold drafts and heat/cold air vents, and any kind of fumes or sprays. 

People get themselves all worked up over finding care sheets, many of which are written by people who have no idea what they're talking about.  There are only a few basic variables:

- *Soil moisture *- most like slightly moist soil, except for those from dry climates (SW US, east/southern Africa, etc) and the Avic group.  Some prefer moister soil. 
- *Soil depth* - deeper for terrestrials, especially for those that like to dig, and not so much for arboreals.
- *Ventilation* - Cross ventilation is best, most like a moderate amount ventilation, some need a little more, but none like wet, stuffy cages with condensation.
- *Cage height* - you don't need the extremes, just something within reason.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## LighthouseAndLibrary (Sep 12, 2021)

I know the last post was from almost four years ago, but I'm also going through the same thing with my g. pulchripes. He molted a few weeks ago and ate pretty voraciously after the molt. Not so much now. It might have been because I moved him into a new enclosure, but now he's made a home for himself in a little rock cave I bought him and started webbing it up, so t's will be t's at the end of the day.


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## Cmoore0475 (Aug 7, 2022)

Nonnack said:


> You shouldn't worry. My B.smithi (it was about 6cm) dug a big hole, barricaded, and spend there about 6 weeks.


Looks like the same window my T. albiposilum left me to spy into a about 3 weeks ago! Decided to drop a meal worm a week ago just to see if it would sense it and come out! Meal worm burrowed in the wrong place and was heartily being chewed on when I went back to check! So I guess it’s not so much premolt just feeling more secure underground!  My D. Pentaloris burrowed on the same day but I don’t have a window for it!


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