# Beginner Centipedes



## Wisdom16 (Jun 24, 2005)

So what's a beginner centipede? I was thinking of getting a Haitian, but I want to start out with a beginner one.


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## Wisdom16 (Jun 25, 2005)

Bump.....Someone has to have suggestions.


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## cacoseraph (Jun 25, 2005)

S. polymorpha

not *that* aggressive, venom not that bad. easy to get in you are in the U.S.  fairly interesting coloration.

slighly more difficult to get S. heros.  three different color morphs/subspecies

S. heros castaniceps is black bodied, with bright yellow legs and bright red head. not too aggressive or venomous.


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## Wisdom16 (Jun 25, 2005)

Would a Chinese RedHeaded Centipede (Scolopendra subspinipes mutilans) be a good one for a beginner? I will show the upmost respect for it if it is a highly venomous species.


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## Androctonus_bic (Jun 25, 2005)

Subspinipes has the most powerful venom. Not for beginers.


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## BugToxin (Jun 25, 2005)

Hello Wisdom16,
This has come up a few times before and the general consensus is that there really aren't any beginnger centipedes, although the S. polymorpha is probably the closest.

If you want a pede, buy the one you want the most right now.  Unlike scorpions, none of the species is likely to kill or cause long term systemic effects in a healthy adult.  Of course, everyone is different and some people have health issues that even doctors don't understand.  The only recorded death that I have ever read of was a little girl who was bitten on the head, and even that story was kind of sketchy.  Anyway, the problem people have with pedes is that they can almost never be handled.  Even the experts get bitten about half the times that they might try to pick one up.  Most experts don't even try.  Even old world T's like the P. murinus is less likely to bite than a big pede.  Pede venom, although again not cosidered deadly, is probably more potent than T venom as well and supposedly hurts really, really bad.    

With all that being said though, I'm ceartainly not an expert but I have three pedes including a subspinipes that is about 9" long and I have never even come close to being bitten.  As long as you are careful about where you put your hands you shouldn't get bitten.  Just remember that they are much faster than they look and they can push themselves off the ground nearly as high as they are long if they want to.  Most of the online dealers seem to be getting some nice selections as of late, so browse and pick.  The Chinese red heads (Scolopendra subspinipes mutilans) are good looking, fairly inexpensive, and should get pretty big.  The  Texas red heads (Scolopendra heros castaneiceps) should get almost as big, if not just as big, and may be a little bit more visible and active.  They look pretty much the same to an untrained eye.  Whchever one you pick, you will like it!!!


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## Wisdom16 (Jun 26, 2005)

I probably won't even think of handling any 'pede I was to get. I know I will be sure to know where the centipede is at ALL times before I stick my hand in the tank. I like show specimens, not the nice, cute ones.


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## Randolph XX() (Jun 26, 2005)

Stone Centipede (Lithobius sp.)
small, like less than 2", cheap or free if u catch some yourslef, won't be able to bite you
However if u really want a big centipede and got some bills to chip in, get S.gigantea(the beginer sp according to Steven)

small centipedes dozn't mean they are not hot
one of my friends got bitten by a O.scaber on the thumb in the wild few weeks ago, and he couldn't move his arm for 3 days

about Handling, i think it's all about timing(i did that when i was 13, in school)
if u must handle them, make sure they're well fed, fat, slower,and lazy
don't try so squish, touch, or, and make them see u as a surface to climb
however like all hots, no handle policy will be the safest


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## BugToxin (Jun 26, 2005)

Wisdom16 said:
			
		

> I like show specimens, not the nice, cute ones.


Me too.    

You mentioned at the beginning of your thread that you thought about a Hatian.  Hatians are big and cool looking, but from what I've read here, they burrow almost all of the time.  This is why I don't have one.  I still think that if you want one of these (just like any other pede) that you would be just as safe keeping it as any other, but as a display animal it probably isn't the best.  The two best choices IMO for a big display animal is the real S. gigantea, which may cost you as much as $300, or the S. heros which will cost about as much as a susbpinipes ($45.00 or so for a big one online).  Some people have luck with the susbpinipes staying out in the open, while other people have specimins that burrow or hide a lot.  My heros is almost always out, even during the day about half the time.  

One other thing, if you do decide to shell out the bucks for a gigantea, make sure that the supplier knows what they are selling.  I have seen Hatians sold as gigantea, and there is some confusion/dissagrement as to how they should be classified.


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## cacoseraph (Jul 26, 2005)

Wisdom16 said:
			
		

> So what's a beginner centipede? I was thinking of getting a Haitian, but I want to start out with a beginner one.


i don't know if it is toolate to contribute, but when i bought a Scolopendra sp. "Haiti" the petstore guy told me his wholesaler warned him this are super hot.  bear in mind, i couldn't get him to pay attention to the S. sp. "Vietnam" in this hot conversation... 

Vietnam should be S. subspinipes, and anything in that category of pain-filled bite would probably not be considered a beginner centipede.

caveat emptor: this petstore man is NOT known for bug knowledge at all, he was just passing on a warning to me...


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## oblivion56 (Jul 26, 2005)

get a haitian!when they get big they dont hide too much!they do attack though!what a nasty bug!


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## BugToxin (Jul 26, 2005)

oblivion56 said:
			
		

> get a haitian!when they get big they dont hide too much!they do attack though!what a nasty bug!


The more I learn about pedes, the more I think that they go through stages.  I used to think that haitians and S. morsitans were both big burrowers, but I have been told otherwise several times now by people with far more experience than me.  In fact, I have not purchased either one so far because of what I had read in the past.  I think that it is time for me to buy some more pedes!!!  My Hong Kong Giant, which had hidden itself away for about three months now comes out every night.  On the other hand, my S. heros which never used to hide has been staying under the cork bark lately.  I guess that if I had to give any peed purchase advice to someone at this point it would be to buy whatever they like.  So Wisdom16, if you haven't already done it, I'd say go ahead and buy the hatian.


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## oblivion56 (Jul 26, 2005)

my haitian seems to think he doesnt have to hide because he is a big mutha!he almost ripped a hopper out of my tongs yesterday,yikes!he is crazy fast also!if you like excitement,get a haitian and wait till it grows up!whew!


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## danread (Jul 27, 2005)

Bugtoxin,

you're completely right. Unfortunately there is no one species that you can guarantee wil be more active or visible than any other species. All the pedes i have had have gone throught stages of hiding for anywhere as long as 6 months (althought ususally for about 1 month), to being continually active (to the point where they start to drive me crazy as they keep me awake at night).

If you buy a pede, its a complete lottery as to whenther you get one that is going to be active straight away, or is going to dig a hole and dissappear.
I've always said, the best way round this is to buy lots of pedes, that way you get the whole range of behaviours at any one time.


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## Wisdom16 (Jul 28, 2005)

I think I am going to start off with a 2"-4" Scolopendra subspinipes mutilans because I can readily get one from the pet store I work at. I am going to house it in a 10 gallon with a small hide and water dish and 3" Eco-Earth as a substrate. I will also have a screen top that is going to be taped up to conserve humidity. I will also scrape off the top half of the silicon sealent so the 'pede can't climb it.

Sound like a good plan?


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## cacoseraph (Jul 28, 2005)

Wisdom16 said:
			
		

> I think I am going to start off with a 2"-4" Scolopendra subspinipes mutilans because I can readily get one from the pet store I work at. I am going to house it in a 10 gallon with a small hide and water dish and 3" Eco-Earth as a substrate. I will also have a screen top that is going to be taped up to conserve humidity. I will also scrape off the top half of the silicon sealent so the 'pede can't climb it.
> 
> Sound like a good plan?


i am a coward. i keep all of my gnarly centipedes in big jars.  they are wicked clever at escaping, from what i have read...

In that large of a cage with that much substate and that small of a centipede, i would expect you won't be seeing very much of it.  that is probably better off for the centipede... but just something to think about.

EDIT:
oh thinking about your pede being burrowed made me think of a sort of advantage to housing my centipedes in big jars.  it's actually only rarely that i can't see at least part of them. most of my pedes have like, galleries bored into the dirt and i can usually see a part of them in a cutaway view of the galleries. when i put a 3-4" S. polymorpha in a large Kreature Keeper (er, whatever it's called) with probably less substate than you were talking about i didn't see it for a month at a time.  it was ok for me cuz i had more than that one... but just one it might be annoying.

hmm, but a big cage like you were talking about looks nice, even empty than my jars.  well, food for thought at any rate


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## Wisdom16 (Jul 29, 2005)

Ehh.......well......I'm not expecting it to be out in the open for everyone to see. But anyway, should I provide heat or will room temps of 75-78 suffice?


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## BugToxin (Jul 29, 2005)

That sounds like a good plan.  Room temp is fine.  I've heard that mutilans like it a bit cooler than most other pedes, so I definately wouldn't increase the temp any if it is that warm already.  Some people use less substrate (about 1 1/2") to keep the pedes from burrowing as much, but the pede will do just fine (and may be happier?) on the 3" or so.  As for humidity, that is also debatable.  Fairly dry substrate (not bone dry) with a wide water dish seems to keep the pedes healthy but probably prevents reproduction (egg laying).  For my pedes, I let the substrate dry out a bit, and then about once every two weeks I pour some water into the substrate and stir it up a bit to make it a tad moist, but not too moist.  I also overfill the water dish a bit whenever it gets low to maintain the moisture.  I don't do anything to restrict ventilation, as I have had issues with mites and mold when I do.  Mutilans may need a bit more moisture than some other pedes, so just make sure that the substrate never becomes bone dry.  Mutilans are really awesome looking pedes, and should get to over 6" when they mature.  If you can get one locally and not have to pay the extra for shipping that is a huge plus as well.


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## Randolph XX() (Jul 29, 2005)

i don't think mutilans prefer cooler temp, but they have good temp tolorence, and they go through hibernation during the winter.
in terms or humidity, both dry or moist would be good if water procided, but they are not more moisture dependent than others, probably almost the same..
Wc one can get to 8"+, he biggest wild one i've ever seen is 10" , however, the mutilans on the market are mostly Chinese cultured one for herbal medicinal use, which is slightly smaller and can be housed commual


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## Wisdom16 (Jul 30, 2005)

They are WC from what the supplier's website says. How fast are their growth rates? Do they have to be fed pinkies/fuzzies when they get bigger or will crickets suffice?


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## BugToxin (Jul 30, 2005)

Wisdom16 said:
			
		

> They are WC from what the supplier's website says. How fast are their growth rates? Do they have to be fed pinkies/fuzzies when they get bigger or will crickets suffice?


I'm not sure about the growth rate, but Randolph and others who have kept a lot of these can probably give you some idea.  As for the pinkies, you don't have to feed pinkies to any pede, even the real giants.  I like to mix it up a bit with pinkies, hissing roaches, and standard crickets, but just crickets will do just fine.  They can also eat mealworms, earthworms, isopods, and bannana, but I wouldn't use any of these as a primary food source (especially bannana).


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## Wisdom16 (Jul 30, 2005)

OK.....Let's make sure I have everything n order......

10 gallon tank with a large-ish water dish 
1.5" of Eco-Earth substrate
A hide.
Room temp is fine for it
Crickets will sustain him with the occasional pinkie/fuzzie
Humidity around 50%-60%

Sound good?


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## Black Hawk (Jul 31, 2005)

sounds about right to me, make sure you pile in the substrate for it to make a burrow. they'll spend sometime underground, hopefully not too long or you'll be looking at a pet hole


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## Wisdom16 (Aug 2, 2005)

Going to be getting the centipede today. I was hoping to get a larger kritter keeper to put my T in, but I didn't have enough money.  So the centipede is going into a 1.5 gallon. Being it's only going to be 3 or 4 inches max it should be comfortable in there for a week or two.


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## cacoseraph (Aug 2, 2005)

Wisdom16 said:
			
		

> Going to be getting the centipede today. I was hoping to get a larger kritter keeper to put my T in, but I didn't have enough money.  So the centipede is going into a 1.5 gallon. Being it's only going to be 3 or 4 inches max it should be comfortable in there for a week or two.


woohooo!!!

welcome to centipedes! (well, almost)


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## Wisdom16 (Aug 2, 2005)

I got it around 6PM and it has already ate a cricket. I just noticed though that the substrate it was shipped in has mites. Since some of the substrate fell out of the container into the tank when I was letting the pede go my substrate now has mites. What should I do about this? They are tiny white bugs and I am drying the tank out right now.


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## Bigboy (Aug 2, 2005)

My first pede was a scolopendra suspinips.  I'm still happy with the choice.


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## BugToxin (Aug 3, 2005)

Wisdom16 said:
			
		

> I got it around 6PM and it has already ate a cricket. I just noticed though that the substrate it was shipped in has mites. Since some of the substrate fell out of the container into the tank when I was letting the pede go my substrate now has mites. What should I do about this? They are tiny white bugs and I am drying the tank out right now.


I personally use peat moss for all my inverts.  Peat moss is extremely cheap at the garden store or hardware store (you can get a HUGE bag for about $5.00).  If it were me I would throw the old substrate away, scrub out the tank with warm soapy water, rinse really good and replace the eco-earth with straight peat moss.  Some people love the eco-earth, and other packaged substrates, but I personally don't think it's any better than peat and the peat is so much cheaper you can throw it away if it gets any nasty's.  I have never had any problems with peat, except for very small mould growths in extremely moist and poorly ventilated tanks (which I don't use anymore either).  People get into debates all the time about substrate's, but what is important is that you change it if it gets nasty.  If you perfer the eco-earth for some reason, go ahead and use it, but you definately want to get the pede out of any mite-infested substrate.


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## Rounder (Aug 3, 2005)

Wisdom16 said:
			
		

> I probably won't even think of handling any 'pede I was to get. I know I will be sure to know where the centipede is at ALL times before I stick my hand in the tank.



you might want to consider getting a very large pair of tweezers to work inside the enclosure.  Most people with Ts and scorps have these for safety reasons.


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## Wisdom16 (Aug 4, 2005)

I switched him to the 10 that my T was in. I then moved my crickets tot he old 'pede tank. The T is in the old cricket container (60 QT Rubbermaid container). I microwaved all the substrate before it was added to the 10 and it's hide was microwaved as well. I also microwaved the peat moss that I added too. There shouldn't be any mites in there. I also threw out the old substrate the pede was in.


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## Scorp guy (Dec 30, 2005)

sure does. i just got a scolopendra subspinipes he is 7 or 8 inches and is very agressive.watch your cage and be sure to have a secure lid, if there is a way to get out, they will find it.i use cocunut bark(the kind that expands) and reptile moss and he seems to like it.be very,very careful if you feed him with tongs. I did and he will eventually snap at your hand or bite the tongs.If he does this dont jerk away....youll only make him madder.definately DO NOT HANDLE. he will attack your hand at any oppurtunity he has. give him a large water dish and keep it filled to the top. try to use something to smooth out the silicone on the side of the cage.First thing my pede did when i put him into his 10 gallon tank was run up the side of the silicone.dont give him too much light or else he will burrow and hardly ever come out. 

good luck with your pede

Spencer


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## TarantuChimp (Dec 30, 2005)

Ha ha this is what I just found about 

Scolopendra mutilans



> These attractive and relatively mellow centipedes are highly recommended.


Ha ha ha ha

or is that a good description?


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## Scolopendra55 (Dec 30, 2005)

Bigboy said his first large scolopendrid was S.subspinipes and so was mine and I have no regrets either. As long as you are carefull it does'nt really matter what species you get.


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## TarantuChimp (Dec 30, 2005)

Regrets?? eh

I am now looking into getting a pede BUT the one problem I have is I am student living in a not so big room, what are the smaller scolopendra species OR smaller centipede species??


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## Scolopendra55 (Dec 30, 2005)

Hey TarantuChimp you should look into getting an S.polymorpha or S.cingulata. They are fairly small and _fairly_ well tempered They are also pretty active most of the time.


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## cacoseraph (Dec 31, 2005)

TarantuChimp said:
			
		

> Regrets?? eh
> 
> I am now looking into getting a pede BUT the one problem I have is I am student living in a not so big room, what are the smaller scolopendra species OR smaller centipede species??


i keep my lagest centipedes in 1 gallon jugs. room is not a huge consideration if you give the centipede ample opportunity to burrow... they will burrow down and not really move around a whole lot

if you use a smaller size jug then there is a pretty reasonable chance that the pede will burrow up against the side

also, jugs with only a few holes are much easier to keep humid. the largest threat (i think) to centipedes is dessication, that is, death by drying out


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