# Help me with my first tarantula?



## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 20, 2016)

So as the title says I'm interested in getting my first tarantula... I don't know if this is the right place to ask this but I will do it anyways . After quite a bit of research I have decided to go with a Curly Hair (aka Brachypelma Albopilosum) simply because it's easy to keep and docile... (correct me if I'm wrong). Could anybody give me recommendations of the exact equipment that I will need? I live in Ireland so room temperatures are not exactly high... I'm also unsure which size cage to get... In addition to that I have only found one website that sells Curly Hairs (https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk) and it would be nice to get all the stuff I need in one delivery (also, what age tarantulas do they deliver???). I have made a shopping cart containing the following items:

-The T itself (obviously)
-Glass terrarium 15/15/15
-A Heat pack (so the poor thing won't freeze to death during delivery)
-Hygro-thermometer 
-Straight tweezer (28cm)
-Coconut Fibre
-Crickets (I'm unsure of which size here because I don't know what age the T will be that they deliver???)
-The only thing I'm really stuck on is some kind of heating device.. (I have heard that heat pads are not really good for them, also, the website doesn't offer them but I'm sure my local pet shop would have one..). What are my options? By the way, my room temperature is really low so I think some kind of heating is definitely required...
-Am I missing anything???

Thanks in advance!

Reactions: Like 1


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## viper69 (Mar 20, 2016)

NO Heat Pads!!!

Reactions: Agree 4


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

viper69 said:


> NO Heat Pads!!!


What should I use then? :/ Heat bulbs?


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## Tenevanica (Mar 21, 2016)

You don't need any external heating. Brachypelma does just fine at room temperature and even slightly colder, as these are the temperatures they would experience in the wild during the winter. How large is the tarantula? If it's an adult you have picked a pretty ok cage at least in terms of size. If it's a spiderling you need something much smaller. You can monitor temp and humidity, but it's not really necessary with a tarantula as hardy as yours, and is likely to cause you more stress than it will help you. You don't need perfect temp or humidity. Other than that you seem to be doing ok. Just remember to refer back here if you have any questions. Good luck!


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## Chris LXXIX (Mar 21, 2016)

Hello there.

How that you don't know, more or less, the size of the _Theraphosidae_ that you want to purchase, man? 

Had not see the one you wants... not in "*other spiders*" (where they usually label slings) nor in "*females*".

But in the "*males*" at £11.00.

Now, do what you want (the choice is yours) but i wouldn't suggest to you a male. A sling, or a female, on the other hand.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## cold blood (Mar 21, 2016)

DLS. or Diagonal Leg Span is how a t is measured in life, age is very subject to husbandry.   Unless you know the breeder or have bred, chances are you will never no the age of your t.

The size of the t is critical to most of your questions.

The best way to warm them is to use a space heater to heat the room, you want to avoid direct heat to the enclosures.   If you are getting a sling there is another option, but we can wait till we know the size of the perspective t.  Heat pads and lamps are something to avoid.

There is no reason to own a hygrometer.


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## Chris LXXIX (Mar 21, 2016)

They (Bristol guys) state -- not always, tough, the size of their _Theraphosidae_. Check ;-)

https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk/?772,brachypelma-albopilosum-(m)


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Chris LXXIX said:


> Hello there.
> 
> How that you don't know, more or less, the size of the _Theraphosidae_ that you want to purchase, man?
> 
> ...


What is wrong with getting a male? I'm aware that they live shorter but that would probably suit me better for my first tarantula? Is there anything else I need to know about males? Are they more aggressive, etc.?


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

cold blood said:


> DLS. or Diagonal Leg Span is how a t is measured in life, age is very subject to husbandry.   Unless you know the breeder or have bred, chances are you will never no the age of your t.
> 
> The size of the t is critical to most of your questions.
> 
> ...


https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk/?772,brachypelma-albopilosum-(m) This is the one.. It states that it's 5-5,5 cm with legs so maybe the terrarium is too big? (also is that its full size as an adult or will it grow more?) Also in terms of temperature, I like to keep my room below the average room temperature simply because I can't sleep when its so hot in my room.. I'm just used to a colder environment... Thanks for the reply!


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## cold blood (Mar 21, 2016)

They mature and therefore, die much sooner.   This is only a bummer if it is a surprise.  You might only get a year or three with it (depending on its size) compared with 20.  But no, there's nothing wrong with getting a male as a first, I've actually made the argument that they may be a good thing.   They grow and mature faster, which means as they do things faster, which means more learning experiences in a shorter time period.  And if you decide its not for you (the hobby), you aren't stuck with it for a few decades or selling it to some kid on craigslist.....plus you get to see what an MM looks like, which will help you recognize this in the future.   MM's can be smaller than the females, and with many species they can be much much smaller...I believe albos are just a little smaller.

Males typically get pretty skittish, but only after they mature, prior to maturing, they basically act and look the same.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Chris LXXIX (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> What is wrong with getting a male? I'm aware that they live shorter but that would probably suit me better for my first tarantula? Is there anything else I need to know about males? Are they more aggressive, etc.?


Nope, man. As i've said the choice is yours. I wouldn't, on the other hand, start this hobby with a male. Happened to me, in 1992, as a very unexperienced kid in a no internet era, wasn't funny IMO (short lifespan sucks, explanation) 

T's are not aggressive, they are defensive.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

cold blood said:


> They mature and therefore, die much sooner.   You might only get a year or three with it (depending on its size) compared with 20.  But no, there's nothing wrong with getting a male as a first, I've actually made the argument that they may be a good thing.   They grow and mature faster, which means as they do things faster, which means more learning experiences in a shorter time period.  And if you decide its not for you (the hobby), you aren't stuck with it for a few decades or selling it to some kid on craigslist.....plus you get to see what an MM looks like, which will help you recognize this in the future.   MM's can be smaller than the females, and with many species they can be much much smaller...I believe albos are just a little smaller.
> 
> Males typically get pretty skittish, but only after they mature, prior to maturing, they basically act and look the same.


That was exactly my train of thought. I mean having something living with you for such a long time seems like a big responsibility, not that I would be irresponsible with the male... I also don't plan on handling the T so I don't really mind if it is just a little defencive. I just don't want something living with me that would try bite me every time I get close to it... Again thanks for the reply!


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## cold blood (Mar 21, 2016)

At that size a small KK would be better.   Fill it halfway with sub, bury a hide and clear an entrance with a starter burrow, add a small water dish and insert tarantula.    I'd keep the sub predominantly dry, occasionally moistening an area (but not always the same area).   They're active landscapers and great eaters, but you will want to keep it warmer than you like.

I will suggest a water bath, its very accurate and economical.
http://arachnoboards.com/threads/first-winter-for-a-first-time-t-owner-heat-question.269365/

see post #6

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

And to the people saying that I don't need a hygro-thermometer, it costs 5 pounds so I thought I might as well get it


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## Tenevanica (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> I just don't want something living with me that would try bite me every time I get close to it...


Most New World tarantulas are docile. I would stay away from an OBT though...


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## Chris LXXIX (Mar 21, 2016)

Which temperatures do you have in the room where you wants to put the _Theraphosidae_, if i can ask?


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## cold blood (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> And to the people saying that I don't need a hygro-thermometer, it costs 5 pounds so I thought I might as well get it


Or I can send my address and you can send me the 5 pounds....both would help you the same, one would help me.   I mean if you're throwing the $ around just because

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

cold blood said:


> At that size a small KK would be better.   Fill it halfway with sub, bury a hide and clear an entrance with a starter burrow, add a small water dish and insert tarantula.    I'd keep the sub predominantly dry, occasionally moistening an area (but not always the same area).   They're active landscapers and great eaters, but you will want to keep it warmer than you like.
> 
> I will suggest a water bath, its very accurate and economical.
> http://arachnoboards.com/threads/first-winter-for-a-first-time-t-owner-heat-question.269365/
> ...


What do you mean with the term KK? And what size exactly are you thinking about? I just want to make sure to have the right conditions to keep it as happy as possible  The water bath is a good idea! I'm sure I will think of something for this problem...


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## cold blood (Mar 21, 2016)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41YiuOA19DL.jpg

KK is a kritter Keeper.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

cold blood said:


> Or I can send my address and you can send me the 5 pounds....both would help you the same, one would help me.   I mean if you're throwing the $ around just because


haha  If i'm already spending 50+ euros I might as well spend the extra 5er on this thing


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## mistertim (Mar 21, 2016)

If you like your own room a bit cooler, do you have a separate room where you can keep your Ts and put a space heater? Nothing wrong with Ts in a bit cooler temps, but they will tend to be slower growing and not eat as much. However, with a male that may actually be a good thing considering the shorter lifespan.


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Chris LXXIX said:


> Which temperatures do you have in the room where you wants to put the _Theraphosidae_, if i can ask?


Not sure exactly but surely below 20 degrees celsius... Maybe not always but heating is expensive :/


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## Chris LXXIX (Mar 21, 2016)

Don't forget this, also:
https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk/?34,pipette

I use those (with a plastic glass full of room temperature water) for moist (when/if needed) the substrate and refill the water dish.

Reactions: Useful 1


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

mistertim said:


> If you like your own room a bit cooler, do you have a separate room where you can keep your Ts and put a space heater? Nothing wrong with Ts in a bit cooler temps, but they will tend to be slower growing and not eat as much. However, with a male that may actually be a good thing considering the shorter lifespan.


I guess I could keep it in the living room but first of all, I don't think my room mate would be happy with this thing in there and second, the heating is still not very consistent in there..


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## cold blood (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> haha  If i'm already spending 50+ euros I might as well spend the extra 5er on this thing


No, not even close....you already spending x, so you might as well just waste y while you are at it?  Do what you like, but its a useless piece of equipment for basic t keeping.   I have over 200 ts, have kept them for nearly 15 years, and have never considered buying a hygrometer....I mean if there was a bin at the store full of them offering them for free, I still wouldn't grab one.


As for heating, just use the heat bath.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Chris LXXIX said:


> Don't forget this, also:
> https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk/?34,pipette
> 
> I use those (with a plastic glass full of room temperature water) for moist (when/if needed) the substrate and refill the water dish.


Ok thanks! It's added to my list!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Chris LXXIX (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> but heating is expensive :/


Don't tell me nothing, man :-/
But thank God, seems that Spring is arrived here, the last days were pretty comfortable... i expect some molts within 2 weeks max.

In Winter i usually keep my T's (from... "everywhere": Baboons, Tropicals etc) at 24° C Day, Night (Drop) 20° C, without using any sort of side/added heathing... never had a problem in 25 years but i do realize, _Erin go Bragh_ is colder than _Lombardy _


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

cold blood said:


> No, not even close....you already spending x, so you might as well just waste y while you are at it?  Do what you like, but its a useless piece of equipment for basic t keeping.   I have over 200 ts, have kept them for nearly 15 years, and have never considered buying a hygrometer....I mean if there was a bin at the store full of them offering them for free, I still wouldn't grab one.
> 
> 
> As for heating, just use the heat bath.


To be honest I'm mainly getting it to keep an eye on the heat rather than the moisture... I don't have a thermometer... :/

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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Chris LXXIX said:


> Don't tell me nothing, man :-/
> But thank God, seems that Spring is arrived here, the last days were pretty comfortable... i expect some molts within 2 weeks max.
> 
> In Winter i usually keep my T's (from... "everywhere": Baboons, Tropicals etc) at 24° C Day, Night (Drop) 20° C, without using any sort of side/added heathing... never had a problem in 25 years but i do realize, _Erin go Bragh_ is colder than _Lombardy _


haha yes I believe Italy can be a lot warmer than Ireland  I will think of some kind of solution.. It will be a few weeks before I have the money for this anyways  I might just get a thermometer to check what my actual room temperature is and I could always just get used to the warmer room temperature if necessary...

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## Andrea82 (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> haha  If i'm already spending 50+ euros I might as well spend the extra 5er on this thing


Or you can skip the hygrometer, and buy a sling for 5euro .
The Spider Shop also has a great stock,is worth taking a look at 
Also, i commend you for coming here to do researchh before buying your T!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Andrea82 said:


> Or you can skip the hygrometer, and buy a sling for 5euro .
> The Spider Shop also has a great stock,is worth taking a look at
> Also, i commend you for coming here to do researchh before buying your T!


That's the site that I have been looking at until I found https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk/ . They seem to have a wider selection and have female mexican red knees which is the T that I initially wanted. And again, I need the thermometer that comes with the hygro so I will get it anyways... What's with all the hygrometer hate anyways?  haha!

p.s. It will be a while before I will buy my T so I have time to research  I have come to the realization that there is a lot to take into account...


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## Andrea82 (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:
			
		

> That's the site that I have been looking at until I found https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk/ . They seem to have a wider selection and have female mexican red knees which is the T that I initially wanted. And again, I need the thermometer that comes with the hygro so I will get it anyways... What's with all the hygrometer hate anyways?  haha!
> 
> p.s. It will be a while before I will buy my T so I have time to research  I have come to the realization that there is a lot to take into account...


You can buy a simple thermometer to stick to the cage,costs you way less. Hygrometers are hated so much because it can lead people to swamp the cage for a species that don't do well in wet environment. Or exactly the opposite, thinking the humidity is goid because the meter says so, and end up with a dead avic. These meters are highly inaccurate, especially the ones thatare cheap.

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## tonypace2009 (Mar 21, 2016)

[QUOTE="dUFF2dUFF, post: 24486 
What's with all the hygrometer hate 
anyways?  haha!
Because you will end up chasing a magic number on the hygrometer that changes every 45 minutes and if it shows no change all day that means you have either no airflow or way to much moisture both bad for the tarantula. Remember humidity also changes with tempature and airflow so if the hygrometer is supper accurate you will always be either adding moisture ,reducing air flow,or adjusting tempature which in turn changes all through the day. Because this little gauge tells you to . Save stress to the tarantula and yourself 
Besides the tarantula can't read it anyway

Reactions: Agree 1


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## ZestyVenmon (Mar 21, 2016)

Curly Hairs are great! Just don't do what I did and get a T without full knowledge! Always check and check again!


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## mistertim (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> That's the site that I have been looking at until I found https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk/ . They seem to have a wider selection and have female mexican red knees which is the T that I initially wanted. And again, I need the thermometer that comes with the hygro so I will get it anyways... What's with all the hygrometer hate anyways?  haha!
> 
> p.s. It will be a while before I will buy my T so I have time to research  I have come to the realization that there is a lot to take into account...


For me, its because a hygrometer killed my parents. Touchy subject, don't ask.

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## Envoirment (Mar 21, 2016)

I don't see anything wrong with a good hygrometer, can be quite handy to know background humidity of your room. But the one you're buying will more than likely be inaccurate, same with the thermometer part of it. Just buy yourself a lone thermometer for less from amazon or something. 

There's an invertebrate show going on April 2nd. So if you wait a week or so after, The Spider Shop should have new stock in, perhaps including some more curly hairs. They had a bunch of juveniles last week but damn they go quick! Not sure if Tarantulas Bristol is going, but if they are they'll have new stock in too. Just incase you'd rather a larger specimen or female.

Reactions: Helpful 1


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Envoirment said:


> I don't see anything wrong with a good hygrometer, can be quite handy to know background humidity of your room. But the one you're buying will more than likely be inaccurate, same with the thermometer part of it. Just buy yourself a lone thermometer for less from amazon or something.
> 
> There's an invertebrate show going on April 2nd. So if you wait a week or so after, The Spider Shop should have new stock in, perhaps including some more curly hairs. They had a bunch of juveniles last week but damn they go quick! Not sure if Tarantulas Bristol is going, but if they are they'll have new stock in too. Just incase you'd rather a larger specimen or female.


Ok I will look it it  And thanks for letting me know about the invertebrate show! That was going to be the time that I wanted to buy the T.


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

tonypace2009 said:


> [QUOTE="dUFF2dUFF, post: 24486
> What's with all the hygrometer hate
> anyways?  haha!
> Because you will end up chasing a magic number on the hygrometer that changes every 45 minutes and if it shows no change all day that means you have either no airflow or way to much moisture both bad for the tarantula. Remember humidity also changes with tempature and airflow so if the hygrometer is supper accurate you will always be either adding moisture ,reducing air flow,or adjusting tempature which in turn changes all through the day. Because this little gauge tells you to . Save stress to the tarantula and yourself
> Besides the tarantula can't read it anyway


That question was a bit more on the sarcastic side (a few people have told what is wrong with a hygrometer by now  ). But would a hygrometer not be good to have a general idea of the climate? I'm not planning on chasing the magic number, I just want some kind of figure in front of me since I have never taken care of an arachnid or anything like that.


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Thanks for all the fast replies guys! Really appreciated, great community you have here!!!  Very helpful!


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## mistertim (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> That question was a bit more on the sarcastic side (a few people have told what is wrong with a hygrometer by now  ). But would a hygrometer not be good to have a general idea of the climate? I'm not planning on chasing the magic number, I just want some kind of figure in front of me since I have never taken care of an arachnid or anything like that.


Not necessarily anything wrong with it as long as 

1) You're just using it as a general guide and not trying to chase some numbers from a care sheet
2) It is a high quality hygrometer and not one from a pet store, etc. Those are gonna cost you a pretty penny.


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## borotasinisa (Mar 21, 2016)

Xenesthis species should also be in consideration in my opinion. I wanted to post this in another thread, my mistake...


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

mistertim said:


> Not necessarily anything wrong with it as long as
> 
> 1) You're just using it as a general guide and not trying to chase some numbers from a care sheet
> 2) It is a high quality hygrometer and not one from a pet store, etc. Those are gonna cost you a pretty penny.


But shouldn't a low quality hygrometer be enough to have a general idea of the humidity? I mean it can't be THAT far off the actual humidity or are they really THAT bad?


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

borotasinisa said:


> Xenesthis species should also be in consideration in my opinion. I wanted to post this in another thread, my mistake...


I have looked into those, but they are not currently available at UK stores (I don't want to deliver the T any further since I'm scared of it dying in the post...). I must say however, they are a beautiful looking species! I will check again after the invertebrate show and make my final decision then when there are more available.


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## mistertim (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> But shouldn't a low quality hygrometer be enough to have a general idea of the humidity? I mean it can't be THAT far off the actual humidity or are they really THAT bad?


They might be right, they might be wrong. They are notoriously unreliable. Is this something you're planning on putting IN the enclosure or something to measure the general humidity in the room your Ts are in?


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

mistertim said:


> They might be right, they might be wrong. They are notoriously unreliable. Is this something you're planning on putting IN the enclosure or something to measure the general humidity in the room your Ts are in?


Well, I was thinking of putting it in the enclosure (at least the part that takes the measurements) or is that a bad idea?


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

I have one more question... I am a smoker, and as far as I am aware, tobacco is a pesticide. Does that mean I can't leave the T in my room if I was to smoke in there? I obviously wouldn't blow smoke at it, but I can only get rid of the smoke by opening the window, which would cause the room temperature to drop...


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## mistertim (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> Well, I was thinking of putting it in the enclosure (at least the part that takes the measurements) or is that a bad idea?


It just makes it even more finicky, because of the micro-climates that develop (or should develop) there. The humidity will change some with the smallest variables. That's why its important to not try to get to specific numbers...you'll end up pulling your hair out because it will change so often in a (properly set up) enclosure. 

You can do it, just don't set too much store by it.

Reactions: Like 1


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## mistertim (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> I have one more question... I am a smoker, and as far as I am aware, tobacco is a pesticide. Does that mean I can't leave the T in my room if I was to smoke in there? I obviously wouldn't blow smoke at it, but I can only get rid of the smoke by opening the window, which would cause the room temperature to drop...


You can't smoke in another room or outside? Do you live in a one bedroom shack on the moon or something?


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

mistertim said:


> You can't smoke in another room or outside? Do you live in a one bedroom shack on the moon or something?


I can, I was just wondering how bad it really is for them.. And no I don't but its a small apartment share and money is scarce (In terms of heating)...  Also I'm thinking more of future situations where I might actually be living in a one bedroom shack on the moon.


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## mistertim (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> I can, I was just wondering how bad it really is for them.. And no I don't but its a small apartment share and money is scarce (In terms of heating)...  Also I'm thinking more of future situations where I might actually be living in a one bedroom shack on the moon.


I was just messing around with you. Yeah its not a good idea as far as I'm aware, but I don't have any direct experience with it.


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

mistertim said:


> I was just messing around with you. Yeah its not a good idea as far as I'm aware, but I don't have any direct experience with it.


Ok thanks, will look into it.


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## Envoirment (Mar 21, 2016)

Don't smoke, spray deodarant or anything else where you will keep your Tatantula.

In regards to humidity - I wouldn't bother put a hygrometer in a cage. If you're going for one of the beginner species they don't need high humidity anyway. So as long as your room has decent humidity and you supply it with a water bowl it should be fine. It's only if you live somewhere really dry or your room is really dry for some reason (less than 40% humidity) that you may need to worry about that. Living in Ireland though I don't think you do.  Particularly if you're going for the likes of a curly hair as they're quite hardy.


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Envoirment said:


> Don't smoke, spray deodarant or anything else where you will keep your Tatantula.
> 
> In regards to humidity - I wouldn't bother put a hygrometer in a cage. If you're going for one of the beginner species they don't need high humidity anyway. So as long as your room has decent humidity and you supply it with a water bowl it should be fine. It's only if you live somewhere really dry or your room is really dry for some reason (less than 40% humidity) that you may need to worry about that. Living in Ireland though I don't think you do.  Particularly if you're going for the likes of a curly hair as they're quite hardy.


Ok your right... The average humidity in Ireland is 65-90% so I think that should be fine... Still need the thermometer though...  Also do you think the mexican red knee is as hardy as the curly hair? I know it's the typical T to get but I do love those colours... I was also recommended the Xenesthis which likewise, looks beautiful... Are they as hardy? what would be your choice if you had to make one as a beginner (I have to be able to get this specimen in Ireland/UK)? By the way, getting more than one T is out of the question. 

Concerning the smoke, not being able to smoke in my room may be a health benefit for me so why not


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## Envoirment (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> Ok your right... The average humidity in Ireland is 65-90% so I think that should be fine... Still need the thermometer though...  Also do you think the mexican red knee is as hardy as the curly hair? I know it's the typical T to get but I do love those colours... I was also recommended the Xenesthis which likewise, looks beautiful... Are they as hardy? what would be your choice if you had to make one as a beginner (I have to be able to get this specimen in Ireland/UK)? By the way, getting more than one T is out of the question.


_Brachypelma smithi_ are great tarantulas, it's totally up to you! Although I just noticed The Spider Shop updated and they have juvenile _B.smithi _available now (I pretty much check The Spider Shop 2-3 times a day lol). They're quite hardy as well. Just make sure you can get your room temperature up to around 20-22C. I keep my room at around 24-26C during the day and then it drops down to around 18-20C at night. But I can afford the heating. If you plan on keeping it in your room, try ways to better insulate your room as well if you can (like thick curtains by the window) and keep the tarantula on a shelf/unit of some sort as opposed to on the floor. If you're really worried about temperatures though you could get a _Grammostola rosea_. They're likely the hardiest of tarantulas, living in the Atacama desert where temperatures can reach 25C during the day and drop to freezing during the night - when they're usually most active. Lower temperatures mean your Tarantula will grow a lot slower though.

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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Envoirment said:


> _Brachypelma smithi_ are great tarantulas, it's totally up to you! Although I just noticed The Spider Shop updated and they have juvenile _B.smithi _available now (I pretty much check The Spider Shop 2-3 times a day lol). They're quite hardy as well. Just make sure you can get your room temperature up to around 20-22C. I keep my room at around 24-26C during the day and then it drops down to around 18-20C at night. But I can afford the heating. If you plan on keeping it in your room, try ways to better insulate your room as well if you can (like thick curtains by the window) and keep the tarantula on a shelf/unit of some sort as opposed to on the floor. If you're really worried about temperatures though you could get a _Grammostola rosea_. They're likely the hardiest of tarantulas, living in the Atacama desert where temperatures can reach 25C during the day and drop to freezing during the night - when they're usually most active. Lower temperatures mean your Tarantula will grow a lot slower though.


I saw the B. Smithi on The Spider Shop just before your reply. However, they are unsexed.. Does this mean that they could be either male or female? They have females on tarantulasbristol.co.uk for 2 pounds more so shouldn't I just get that if I have the choice? I will keep an eye out for the G. Rosea but I haven't found any so far... Another thing in terms of temperature, are there any actual health risks in keeping the T at a lower temperature or are the just less active and grow slower? I heard molding could be a problem? Oh, and all the T's I have seen are around 5-6 cm. Would a 30L x 19W x 20H cm Kritter Keeper be too big/small for them? Thanks for the reply!


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## viper69 (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> But shouldn't a low quality hygrometer be enough to have a general idea of the humidity? I mean it can't be THAT far off the actual humidity or are they really THAT bad?


No, and they are THAT bad.

One doesn't need such a device for tarantulas.


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## viper69 (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> I saw the B. Smithi on The Spider Shop just before your reply. However, they are unsexed.. Does this mean that they could be either male or female? They have females on tarantulasbristol.co.uk for 2 pounds more so shouldn't I just get that if I have the choice? I will keep an eye out for the G. Rosea but I haven't found any so far... Another thing in terms of temperature, are there any actual health risks in keeping the T at a lower temperature or are the just less active and grow slower? I heard molding could be a problem?


Unsexed..means exactly what you wrote. Why ask us what YOU should get regarding YOUR money??? If you want a longer lived T, always get a female, case closed.

How low a temperature??? For the species you are considering a couple of degrees F is a non-issue generally speaking. I keep my Ts at 70/72-5F (night/day yr round)

Some keepers have let mold, ie fungus, grow with their Ts. A little bit doesn't hurt, but I don't recommend it. You can easily remove the mold by spot cleaning.

ALSO, if you own a species that comes from an arid climate and you see mold, something is wrong w/your T husbandry as you shouldn't have mold!

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## Envoirment (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> I saw the B. Smithi on The Spider Shop just before your reply. However, they are unsexed.. Does this mean that they could be either male or female? They have females on tarantulasbristol.co.uk for 2 pounds more so shouldn't I just get that if I have the choice? I will keep an eye out for the G. Rosea but I haven't found any so far... Another thing in terms of temperature, are there any actual health risks in keeping the T at a lower temperature or are the just less active and grow slower? I heard molding could be a problem? Oh, and all the T's I have seen are around 5-6 cm. Would a 30L x 19W x 20H cm Kritter Keeper be too big/small for them? Thanks for the reply!


Depends on what you're looking for. _B.smithi_ are slow growers, so even if it's male it could still take a few years or so to mature. If it's a female it can last a good couple decades if looked after right. Personally I'd go with the female as having a Tarantula for a long time and watching it grow appeals to me. Keeping tarantulas too cold for too long can kill them. It's best to keep them more on the warm (not hot) side, so around 20C. You'll find they grow slower than those that keep them at 25-30C, but you won't have to spend huge amounts of money on heating. 

In terms of space, that looks fine. I keep all my Tarantulas in the faunariums that The Spider Shop sell. The medium flat ones are great for non-burrowing terrestrials, they're 35Lx20Wx12H. It will give your Tarantula room to grow (you may never need to buy another enclosure actually) whilst being easy to feed your T and maintain the enclosure. I have a 3" _A.geniculata_ and 5" _G.rosea _in them and they're doing great. The _B.smithi_ might be a bit bigger than described, as my A.genic was described as 5-6cm but measured 7.5cm in DLS from Tarantulas Bristol. I fill up the enclosure to about half way with substrate (so if the T climbs and falls it won't hurt itself), burry half a plastic plant pot for a hide and have a large water dish (bought from The Spider Shop as well). Works well so far.

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## tonypace2009 (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> That question was a bit more on the sarcastic side (a few people have told what is wrong with a hygrometer by now  ). But would a hygrometer not be good to have a general idea of the climate? I'm not planning on chasing the magic number, I just want some kind of figure in front of me since I have never taken care of an arachnid or anything like that.


My post wasn't directed at you it was a general opportunity to explain to others why hygrometers are not suited for tarantulas. There have been many posters with these devices attached to their enclosures just in the last few weeks.


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## mistertim (Mar 21, 2016)

I actually attach a hygrometer directly TO my tarantula. That way I know what the humidity is wherever in her enclosure she is. Plus it looks hilarious. Win/win.

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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

So I have made an example list. It should be in the attachment below. Am I missing anything? Is the substrate okay for the Specimen?


Envoirment said:


> Depends on what you're looking for. _B.smithi_ are slow growers, so even if it's male it could still take a few years or so to mature. If it's a female it can last a good couple decades if looked after right. Personally I'd go with the female as having a Tarantula for a long time and watching it grow appeals to me. Keeping tarantulas too cold for too long can kill them. It's best to keep them more on the warm (not hot) side, so around 20C. You'll find they grow slower than those that keep them at 25-30C, but you won't have to spend huge amounts of money on heating.
> 
> In terms of space, that looks fine. I keep all my Tarantulas in the faunariums that The Spider Shop sell. The medium flat ones are great for non-burrowing terrestrials, they're 35Lx20Wx12H. It will give your Tarantula room to grow (you may never need to buy another enclosure actually) whilst being easy to feed your T and maintain the enclosure. I have a 3" _A.geniculata_ and 5" _G.rosea _in them and they're doing great. The _B.smithi_ might be a bit bigger than described, as my A.genic was described as 5-6cm but measured 7.5cm in DLS from Tarantulas Bristol. I fill up the enclosure to about half way with substrate (so if the T climbs and falls it won't hurt itself), burry half a plastic plant pot for a hide and have a large water dish (bought from The Spider Shop as well). Works well so far.


So, I have made an example list. It should be below. Am I missing anything? Is there something on the list that I do not need? Is the substrate okay for the Specimen? I will get a thermometer just to keep an eye on my room temperature as advised by you guys. I was thinking about using a small tree bark as a hive for the T. I was told you have to boil it and freeze it for at least 48 hours to kill all the bacteria.. Is that right?


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## Envoirment (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> So I have made an example list. It should be in the attachment below. Am I missing anything? Is the substrate okay for the Specimen?
> 
> So, I have made an example list. It should be below. Am I missing anything? Is there something on the list that I do not need? Is the substrate okay for the Specimen? I will get a thermometer just to keep an eye on my room temperature as advised by you guys. I was thinking about using a small tree bark as a hive for the T. I was told you have to boil it and freeze it for at least 48 hours to kill all the bacteria.. Is that right?
> View attachment 207206


Get medium crickets for your feeders. I made a mistake of getting small and got about 100-150 of em in a container and they're too small for most of my tarantulas. Medium crickets are perfect for 2-3" Tarantulas. Although even the silent crickets do make noise so bare that in mind (I usually put them out in the living room when I go to bed).

You can get rid of the moss and vermiculite.  The Coco Fibre will be fine by itself. You don't need a hand sprayer either. Other than that, it looks good to me. No idea about using real wood, I just use plant pots or cork bark.

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## Poec54 (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> So, I have made an example list. It should be below. Am I missing anything? Is there something on the list that I do not need? Is the substrate okay for the Specimen? I will get a thermometer just to keep an eye on my room temperature as advised by you guys. I was thinking about using a small tree bark as a hive for the T. I was told you have to boil it and freeze it for at least 48 hours to kill all the bacteria.. Is that right?


- 'Room Temp' being in the 70's during the day and no lower than mid 60's at night.
- It's pointless to sterilize substrate or anything else you put in the cage, because the spider and it's prey will introduce things, as will the air in your house.  The world isn't sterile or anything you put in the cage, nor will your cage be for more than a few hours.  Cork is much better than bark, it won't breakdown and decompose. 
-  Feeding dish?  No.  They're predators, they chase and catch prey.
- Water bowl?  Yes, and disposable is best.  I use 1 oz soufflé cups for juveniles and 3.25 oz for adults (purchased cheaply by the sleeve from restaurant supply stores). Tarantulas will occasionally put both boluses and feces in their water bowls.  You'll never be able to keep it bacteria-free.  And you're worried about bacteria in the other things?
- I use 6" forceps for cage maintenance, possibly the best spider tool there is.  Picks up everything.  Grips better than tweezers. 
- You've got cocofiber, vermiculite, and sphagnum listed.  I use bagged top soil for all my tarantulas, all species, all sizes.  No need to mix up all kinds of special ingredients. 

You can do this for half of the total cost you listed.

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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> - 'Room Temp' being in the 70's during the day and no lower than mid 60's at night.
> - It's pointless to sterilize substrate or anything else you put in the cage, because the spider and it's prey will introduce things, as will the air in your house.  The world isn't sterile or anything you put in the cage, nor will your cage be for more than a few hours.  Cork is much better than bark, it won't breakdown and decompose.
> -  Feeding dish?  No.  They're predators, they chase and catch prey.
> - Water bowl?  Yes, and disposable is best.  I use 1 oz soufflé cups for juveniles and 3.25 oz for adults (purchased cheaply by the sleeve from restaurant supply stores). Tarantulas will occasionally put both boluses and feces in their water bowls.  You'll never be able to keep it bacteria-free.  And you're worried about bacteria in the other things?
> ...


Oh dear... the feeding dish is meant to be the water bowl... My bad  Thanks anyways! Will edit and save the list and buy once my monthly check comes in. I'm very excited!


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## dUFF2dUFF (Mar 21, 2016)

Envoirment said:


> Get medium crickets for your feeders. I made a mistake of getting small and got about 100-150 of em in a container and they're too small for most of my tarantulas. Medium crickets are perfect for 2-3" Tarantulas. Although even the silent crickets do make noise so bare that in mind (I usually put them out in the living room when I go to bed).
> 
> You can get rid of the moss and vermiculite.  The Coco Fibre will be fine by itself. You don't need a hand sprayer either. Other than that, it looks good to me. No idea about using real wood, I just use plant pots or cork bark.


I was wondering what size crickets to get so I let them choose for me. Good to know now anyways. Is there any livefoods that you can give the T that doesn't make noise? Like worms of some sort? Mealworms? Or do they lack nutrients? 

I will remove the moss and vermiculite from the list. Thanks for saving me money! This whole thing seems a lot more affordable now... And in terms of the hand sprayer, will I not need that to moisturize the soil and keep the humidity up, or will the water bowl be enough? Also, can you make a little hive out of small rocks or do they not like that?


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## Envoirment (Mar 21, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> I was wondering what size crickets to get so I let them choose for me. Good to know now anyways. Is there any livefoods that you can give the T that doesn't make noise? Like worms of some sort? Mealworms? Or do they lack nutrients?
> 
> I will remove the moss and vermiculite from the list. Thanks for saving me money! This whole thing seems a lot more affordable now... And in terms of the hand sprayer, will I not need that to moisturize the soil and keep the humidity up, or will the water bowl be enough? Also, can you make a little hive out of small rocks or do they not like that?


You won't need to mist a _B.smithi_. Your background humidity and a water bowl (which will slightly increase humidity in its cage) will be all that it needs. You can keep the substrate dry and it'll be fine. I'd avoid making a hide out of small rocks incase it just falls apart. Best to stick with bark/plant pots.

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## cold blood (Mar 22, 2016)

mistertim said:


> They might be right, they might be wrong. They are notoriously unreliable. Is this something you're planning on putting IN the enclosure or something to measure the general humidity in the room your Ts are in?


Humidity isn't something you should concern yourself with...this is one of those things that online care sheets stress that really screws up and makes keeping seem a lot more difficult than it actually is for many newcomers.   Instead of worrying about and paying attention to humidity, pay attention to the level of moisture in the substrate....much simpler than you have been led to believe.



dUFF2dUFF said:


> Ok your right... The average humidity in Ireland is 65-90% so I think that should be fine... Still need the thermometer though...  Also do you think the mexican red knee is as hardy as the curly hair? I know it's the typical T to get but I do love those colours... I was also recommended the Xenesthis which likewise, looks beautiful... Are they as hardy? what would be your choice if you had to make one as a beginner (I have to be able to get this specimen in Ireland/UK)? By the way, getting more than one T is out of the question.


Do you need a thermometer, no, but its useful just to know....I definitely would never consider one IN an enclosure, but I do have one in the room, as my room is heated, so its different than the thermostat in the house.

Once they get out of the sling stage, and if they are kept properly, most ts are in fact, very hardy....this concern of hardiness is not based on reality and the fact that so many online "beginner lists" stress this only shows the writers of those article's lack of real world t experience.    There's literally a handful of species with specialized care, and none of them would be considered beginner ts, in fact most, if not all, would be considered on the advanced side (of all ts or even just within the genus).  

The care of a Xenesthis would be considered intermediate as they do require damp sub and for such a large t, they are not the fast growers one might expect....sooooo good looking though and worth a look in due time.



dUFF2dUFF said:


> I saw the B. Smithi on The Spider Shop just before your reply. However, they are unsexed.. Does this mean that they could be either male or female? They have females on tarantulasbristol.co.uk for 2 pounds more so shouldn't I just get that if I have the choice? I will keep an eye out for the G. Rosea but I haven't found any so far... Another thing in terms of temperature, are there any actual health risks in keeping the T at a lower temperature or are the just less active and grow slower? I heard molding could be a problem? Oh, and all the T's I have seen are around 5-6 cm. Would a 30L x 19W x 20H cm Kritter Keeper be too big/small for them? Thanks for the reply!


The temp concern is more critical for slings, the bigger they get, the more resistant they will generally be, but there are times, such as around the molt period, where cooler temps can be an issue.  As long as you are about 70, you're fine regardless of whether you buy a sling or adult.

Lower temps mean less feeding response, slower growth, but also a longer lifespan, especially for a female....faster growth can actually lead to a shorter life...the most critical t to keep warm is a sling, to speed them out of their vulnerable sling stage.  

But health risks, no, they don't catch colds.



dUFF2dUFF said:


> I was wondering what size crickets to get so I let them choose for me. Good to know now anyways. Is there any livefoods that you can give the T that doesn't make noise? Like worms of some sort? Mealworms? Or do they lack nutrients?
> 
> And in terms of the hand sprayer, will I not need that to moisturize the soil and keep the humidity up, or will the water bowl be enough? Also, can you make a little hive out of small rocks or do they not like that?


Mealworms and wax worms are both great feeders, and for larger ts, super worms are also good.    You can also feed pre-killed prey, especially if you are raising a sling.  Most ts have little issue scavenging food.    I like to alternate feeders between the aforementioned worms, crickets and roaches.   The size you feed is directly related to the size of the t.   With pre-kill you can offer substantially larger prey without issue, so because they get more food per feeding, you can feed them less often and still achieve good growth rates.

You will not need a spray bottle.   The only time I use mine is for dampening paper towels for shipping....or cooling the dog on hot days.



Envoirment said:


> You won't need to mist a _B.smithi_. Your background humidity and a water bowl (which will slightly increase humidity in its cage) will be all that it needs. You can keep the substrate dry and it'll be fine. I'd avoid making a hide out of small rocks incase it just falls apart. Best to stick with bark/plant pots.


You never need to mist or worry about humidity for a B. smith, yes they do fine on dry sub with a water dish.   In the winter when the furnace and heater are drying the already dry winter air, I do periodically dampen half of the substrate, but I never do this spring to fall.

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## louise f (Mar 23, 2016)

cold blood said:


> Humidity isn't something you should concern yourself with...this is one of those things that online care sheets stress that really screws up and makes keeping seem a lot more difficult than it actually is for many newcomers.   Instead of worrying about and paying attention to humidity, pay attention to the level of moisture in the substrate....much simpler than you have been led to believe.
> 
> 
> Do you need a thermometer, no, but its useful just to know....I definitely would never consider one IN an enclosure, but I do have one in the room, as my room is heated, so its different than the thermostat in the house.
> ...



Boy ohh boy, you could write a whole book CB. <3  I would be happy to read

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## dUFF2dUFF (Apr 7, 2016)

My T arrived today! It's a beautiful juvenile Mexican Red Knee. Thanks for making this possible guys! It was worth the effort after all! I never thought this day would come... I'm a happy camper!

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## MikeC (Apr 8, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> My T arrived today! It's a beautiful juvenile Mexican Red Knee.


Without pictures, that's entirely subjective. 
How are we supposed to know it doesn't have buck teeth and a lazy eye? 

Pictures, I tell you. Pictures!


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## dUFF2dUFF (Apr 8, 2016)

PTX said:


> Without pictures, that's entirely subjective.
> How are we supposed to know it doesn't have buck teeth and a lazy eye?
> 
> Pictures, I tell you. Pictures!


He/she is currently hiding in the hive. I think it's still a little bit stressed out/getting used to her new home. I will upload a picture once it comes out!


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## Poec54 (Apr 8, 2016)

louise f said:


> Boy ohh boy, you could write a whole book CB. <3  I would be happy to read



Dennis (Cold Blood) gives some of the best advice here.  He's definitely an underrated asset to this forum.  Plus he's a little more patient than I am.

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## louise f (Apr 8, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> Dennis (Cold Blood) gives some of the best advice here.  He's definitely an underrated asset to this forum.  Plus he's a little more patient than I am.


I know poec. And what i wrote, i meant with all my heart <3

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## MikeC (Apr 8, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> Dennis (Cold Blood) gives some of the best advice here.  He's definitely an underrated asset to this forum.  Plus he's a little more patient than I am.


Poec's selling himself short here. 
He's had what I would assume to be decades of experience. Him along with Cold Blood are two members I would listen to in any situation.

(I'm just glad neither have recommended jumping off a bridge)

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## Poec54 (Apr 8, 2016)

PTX said:


> Poec's selling himself short here.
> He's had what I would assume to be decades of experience. Him along with Cold Blood are two members I would listen to in any situation.
> 
> (I'm just glad neither have recommended jumping off a bridge)


Got my first tarantula in 1973, an adult female w/c B smithi, which the pet stores sold retail for $10 in those days.

No, Dennis and I haven't considered jumping off any bridges, due to our fear of heights (_he's not as tough as_ _he looks_), but have made the recommendation to a few other members (just kidding.  Actually, unlike my critics, I've never personally insulted anyone on a forum, as I think it's the height of immaturity.  I'll criticize people's questionable behavior, but never them as a person).

And what are you doing up so early?

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## MikeC (Apr 8, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> Got my first tarantula in 1973, an adult female w/c B smithi, which the pet stores sold retail for $10 in those days.
> 
> No, Dennis and I haven't considered jumping off any bridges, due to our fear of heights (_he's not as tough as_ _he looks_), but have made the recommendation to a few other members (just kidding.  Actually, unlike my critics, I've never personally insulted anyone on a forum, as I think it's the height of immaturity.  I'll criticize people's questionable behavior, but never them as a person).
> 
> And what are you doing up so early?


Man.. If it didn't mean depleting wild populations of them, I'd kill for prices like that in stores today.

You and CB are far more alike than I would have guessed, outside overlapping expertise. 
And I would have to agree with you, there are some people to whom that suggestion would be worth giving, even if it's not worth saying out loud. 

That would be a combination of my insomnia, and a sick wife. Been on "tea and medicine duty" for the last few days.
On the bright side, the insomnia does let me sneak up on the crawlies during their peak hours.

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## Poec54 (Apr 8, 2016)

PTX said:


> On the bright side, the insomnia does let me sneak up on the crawlies during their peak hours.


The best time to watch them.  They are busy little things in the wee hours.  You'll see things you wouldn't otherwise.

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## MikeC (Apr 8, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> The best time to watch them.  They are busy little things in the wee hours.  You'll see things you wouldn't otherwise.


A red flashlight was one of my best investments.


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## louise f (Apr 8, 2016)

PTX said:


> Poec's selling himself short here.
> He's had what I would assume to be decades of experience. Him along with Cold Blood are two members I would listen to in any situation.
> 
> (I'm just glad neither have recommended jumping off a bridge)


Yeah me too.


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## Kelly1972 (Apr 8, 2016)

Hi. I'm in the UK and get all my T's from The Spider Shop. Check them out. Also via FB spiderman from London is really good too. I buy my enclosures from swell Reptiles UK. Always good prices and plenty of choice. I buy my crickets from livefoods direct UK. Free delivery too. I understand you saying it's cold in Ireland. It's pretty low in temps here too. I just put a space heater on timed and keep my room in-between 70-75. Works for me. My spiders moult just fine.


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## dUFF2dUFF (Apr 8, 2016)

Kelly1972 said:


> Hi. I'm in the UK and get all my T's from The Spider Shop. Check them out. Also via FB spiderman from London is really good too. I buy my enclosures from swell Reptiles UK. Always good prices and plenty of choice. I buy my crickets from livefoods direct UK. Free delivery too. I understand you saying it's cold in Ireland. It's pretty low in temps here too. I just put a space heater on timed and keep my room in-between 70-75. Works for me. My spiders moult just fine.


I got mine from The Spider Shop already. She seems happy out with its enclosure. Thanks anyways!

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## dUFF2dUFF (Apr 8, 2016)

When should I start feeding my T after arrival? It has also made a second entrance to its hive.. Is that okay? It's just a toilet paper roll and it dug out the other side. Now its facing that way.. I thought the idea of their hive was to have a place where they can keep everything in front of them?


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## Trenor (Apr 8, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> It's just a toilet paper roll and it dug out the other side.


You will want to change out that paper roll as soon as you can. The paper can get damp and mold which can cause problems. I use corkbark half rounds for mine. If you can't get that easily where you are a disposable hard plastic drinking cup cut to make a hide will work in the short term. Good luck.

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## dUFF2dUFF (Apr 8, 2016)

Trenor said:


> You will want to change out that paper roll as soon as you can. The paper can get damp and mold which can cause problems. I use corkbark half rounds for mine. If you can't get that easily where you are a disposable hard plastic drinking cup cut to make a hide will work in the short term. Good luck.


Yeah I think I will make a lot of modifications on the enclosure once it has started to eat and seems a bit more relaxed... Don't want to stress it out for now.. Thanks anyways!


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## cold blood (Apr 8, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> When should I start feeding my T after arrival? It has also made a second entrance to its hive.. Is that okay? It's just a toilet paper roll and it dug out the other side. Now its facing that way.. I thought the idea of their hive was to have a place where they can keep everything in front of them?


There is no feeding rule, some wait a week or two, others (like me), feed generally the first or second day, but if they look plump or pre-molt, I just wait for a molt very often...if they burrow and block off the entrance, I just wait for them to emerge and feed then, if that's several weeks, so be it. 

I agree with trenor though, a tp roll isn't a good hide.   Just about anything can be made into a hide, from pc pipe to a cracked in half pot or coffee mug. I use driftwood I collect, clean and bake, so it doesn't necessarily have to be cork...cork is just nice because it looks nice and is reliable in its resistance to mold issues (if you don't know the right wood to collect, this could easily pose a problem).   Heck for small ts a dried leaf can provide the cover.

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## Haemus (Apr 8, 2016)

Congrats on the T! I just got my first as well, and it started eating about 2 weeks after the initial housing. 

I was encouraged by good folks on this forum to go with a cork bark and for good reason, as I find my T often perched on top of the hide at night, and under it during the day. It's the wood that makes it good

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## dUFF2dUFF (Apr 8, 2016)

Haemus said:


> Congrats on the T! I just got my first as well, and it started eating about 2 weeks after the initial housing.
> 
> I was encouraged by good folks on this forum to go with a cork bark and for good reason, as I find my T often perched on top of the hide at night, and under it during the day. It's the wood that makes it good


I'll see if I can find a natural piece of cork bark so.  And yes the people here are surprisingly active and useful! Never knew it could be such a big hobby and now I kind of understand why...

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## Poec54 (Apr 8, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> I'll see if I can find a natural piece of cork bark so.  And yes the people here are surprisingly active and useful! Never knew it could be such a big hobby and now I kind of understand why...



Thanks from all of us.  That's why we're here.  There's a good group of people on this forum, and they're not 'toxic' or 'harsh' in spite of any rumors you may have heard. 

Where are the voices of doom from a couple days ago?  They don't see this stuff.

Reactions: Agree 4


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## Haemus (Apr 8, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> I'll see if I can find a natural piece of cork bark so.  And yes the people here are surprisingly active and useful! Never knew it could be such a big hobby and now I kind of understand why...


welcome to the darkside my friend  the wealth of info and activity here is indeed awesome.

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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 9, 2016)

I recently Got a B albopilosum  As my first T. They are really Great, Pretty docile but they love to eat. 

Mine seems to be doing pretty well with a good amount of substrate, some cork bark for a hide and atm i used to use a Gatorade bottle cap for a water dish, even though every time i fill it she just dumps it and buries it in the back corner of her enclosure. 

They LOOOOVE to dig around so deff make sure there is plenty of substrate (my shelob has turned her enclosure into one long tube leading from the hide to the other wall. literally webbed and covered the whole thing from the top down. makes it hard to feed her but she seems to really dig it) 

Good luck to you and i know you will enjoy the Curly Hair  definitely a great first T


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## dUFF2dUFF (Apr 10, 2016)

Tanner Dzula said:


> I recently Got a B albopilosum  As my first T. They are really Great, Pretty docile but they love to eat.
> 
> Mine seems to be doing pretty well with a good amount of substrate, some cork bark for a hide and atm i used to use a Gatorade bottle cap for a water dish, even though every time i fill it she just dumps it and buries it in the back corner of her enclosure.
> 
> ...


Your T sounds mighty creative!  I actually already have my Mexican Red Knee since recently. I saw it eat for the first time there yesterday so I think she is happy enough for now. I gave her a toilet roll (it will be replaced) for her den and she dug herself another entrance only to block off the main one... Fascinating creatures to watch! ^^

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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 12, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> Your T sounds mighty creative!  I actually already have my Mexican Red Knee since recently. I saw it eat for the first time there yesterday so I think she is happy enough for now. I gave her a toilet roll (it will be replaced) for her den and she dug herself another entrance only to block off the main one... Fascinating creatures to watch! ^^


yes they really are.  i recently picked up a L. Parahybana  and she completely dug out all the dirt around its hide so basically its just a tube of cork bark in the middle of her enclosure that she sits in. 

While my B. albopilosum completely covered hers in a tunnel tube from one end to the other. 

While Our A. Geniculate doesn't even use his hide, he just kind of sits about  his Enclosure and likes to do laps. 

All 3 T's about the same size/age range yet all 3 are completely different. its really kind of awesome haha. 

But yea i would definitely switch out the toilet paper tube with something, preferably cork bark if you can find it. 
But it sounds like she definitely seems to enjoy it in her new home!

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## crlovel (Apr 13, 2016)

Whatever you do, stay away from H. _maculata_, and anything with the word "baboon" in the common name, and anything Old World. Get a G. _porteri_, they're fantastic. They'll even fetch sticks and roll over.

_(Does this make up for suggesting a _maculata _as a first arboreal?)_

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## Chris LXXIX (Apr 13, 2016)

crlovel said:


> Whatever you do, stay away from H. _maculata_, and anything with the word "baboon" in the common name, and anything Old World. Get a G. _porteri_, they're fantastic. They'll even fetch sticks and roll over.
> 
> _(Does this make up for suggesting a _maculata _as a first arboreal?)_


Eh eh...


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## KezyGLA (Apr 13, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> So as the title says I'm interested in getting my first tarantula... I don't know if this is the right place to ask this but I will do it anyways . After quite a bit of research I have decided to go with a Curly Hair (aka Brachypelma Albopilosum) simply because it's easy to keep and docile... (correct me if I'm wrong). Could anybody give me recommendations of the exact equipment that I will need? I live in Ireland so room temperatures are not exactly high... I'm also unsure which size cage to get... In addition to that I have only found one website that sells Curly Hairs (https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk) and it would be nice to get all the stuff I need in one delivery (also, what age tarantulas do they deliver???). I have made a shopping cart containing the following items:
> 
> -The T itself (obviously)
> -Glass terrarium 15/15/15
> ...


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## KezyGLA (Apr 13, 2016)

I am living in Scotland so I have to deal with roughly the same room temps as you.

For your first T I would advise a new world terrestrial species. Preferably a Brachypelma, aphonopelma or Grammostola. These are quite hardy spideys and will do well even in our crappy climate room temps. Tarantulas that will be more readily available to you in Ireland will probably be Brachypelma Albopilosum, Grammostola Porteri/Rosea or Aphonopelma Chalcodes or Aphonopelma Seemanni.

All these spiders are new world terrestrial and do not need high temperatures and high humidities. A fair sized enclosure (for the size of spider you are buying) maybe Exo Terra or Komodo with appropriate coco husk/peat soil substrate, cork bark hide and small water dish will do. In winter when temperatures drop bigtime I stick a space heater on a low setting in my T room just to make sure temps dont fall below 17 degrees.

Do not use heat mats or bulbs. Your T will bask itself on/under the heat source and dehydrate and probably die.

If you can't find any good local pet stores that have the T for you and the goods that you need then here are a few google suggestions that will ship to Ireland:

- Www.BugzUK.com
- www.TheSpiderShop.co.uk
- Www.houseofspiders.couk
- www.exotic-pets.co.uk
- Www.exotic-animals.co.uk
- www.spidersworld.eu

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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 13, 2016)

crlovel said:


> Whatever you do, stay away from H. _maculata_, and anything with the word "baboon" in the common name, and anything Old World. Get a G. _porteri_, they're fantastic. They'll even fetch sticks and roll over.
> 
> _(Does this make up for suggesting a _maculata _as a first arboreal?)_


When would you recommend a H. Maculata? 

This is a species I've been very interested in (theres actually about 3-4 slings in this local exotic pet shop, where i get my T's form currently) 
Obviously Im not just going to jump into it with one though haha. 
Like what are a few species you would suggest tackling before the H. Maculata.  I already plan for a A. Versicolor soon, and eventually a P. Metallica as well (probably a long eventually)


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## Poec54 (Apr 13, 2016)

KezyGLA said:


> I am living in Scotland so I have to deal with roughly the same room temps as you.


 
One thing to keep in mind is that these animals are cold blooded and will have slower reactions in lower temps.  The flip side is that in warmer temps, they eat and drink more, and are more likely to run, and run faster, along with putting up a more effective defense.


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## crlovel (Apr 13, 2016)

Tanner Dzula said:


> When would you recommend a H. Maculata?
> 
> This is a species I've been very interested in (theres actually about 3-4 slings in this local exotic pet shop, where i get my T's form currently)
> Obviously Im not just going to jump into it with one though haha.
> Like what are a few species you would suggest tackling before the H. Maculata.  I already plan for a A. Versicolor soon, and eventually a P. Metallica as well (probably a long eventually)


Never.


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## crlovel (Apr 13, 2016)

In all seriousness, No one can determine when you are ready for a fast and aggressive spider. My first tarantula was a _porteri_. My second was an OBT. Stupid? Not really - I've had centipedes, lizards and snakes, and more. I'm pretty comfortable with fast and aggressive. After the OBT, I've got six other baboon species, too, which, for now, are the only OW species I'm interested in.

Only YOU can determine your own comfort level.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 13, 2016)

crlovel said:


> Never.


Lol. Well i was never one to listen much anyway  

Im a Huge Old World fan, I'm just testing my waters with some New Worlds first 

Currently with an A. Genic/L. parahybana/B. Albopilosum and probably some type of Avic next.


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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 13, 2016)

crlovel said:


> In all seriousness, No one can determine when you are ready for a fast and aggressive spider. My first tarantula was a _porteri_. My second was an OBT. Stupid? Not really - I've had centipedes, lizards and snakes, and more. I'm pretty comfortable with fast and aggressive. After the OBT, I've got six other baboon species, too, which, for now, are the only OW species I'm interested in.
> 
> Only YOU can determine your own comfort level.


very true, Though i will say, From what I've heard and Seen of OBT's, they are a very interesting species. 

As much as i want one they are probably not going to come up on my list very soon  
but i do love that orange color!!


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## Chris LXXIX (Apr 13, 2016)

KezyGLA said:


> I am living in Scotland so I have to deal with roughly the same room temps as you.
> 
> For your first T I would advise a new world terrestrial species. Preferably a Brachypelma, aphonopelma or Grammostola. These are quite hardy spideys and will do well even in our crappy climate room temps. Tarantulas that will be more readily available to you in Ireland will probably be Brachypelma Albopilosum, Grammostola Porteri/Rosea or Aphonopelma Chalcodes or Aphonopelma Seemanni.
> 
> ...


You forgot the 'Bristol' guys, just for saying 

Those guys sent T's in Japan and UAE (lol) as well

https://tarantulasbristol.co.uk/

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Chris LXXIX (Apr 13, 2016)

Tanner Dzula said:


> Currently with an A. Genic/L. parahybana/B. Albopilosum and probably some type of Avic next.


There's time for those, for OW's. And i suggest always to deal with a _P.cambridgei_, and genus _Psalmopoeus_ in general, before jumping into OW's, a "no mans land" <-- lol, where even a bulky _P.muticus_ is able to amaze you with her "hiss & (semi) jumps & bites" all of a sudden

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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 13, 2016)

Chris LXXIX said:


> There's time for those, for OW's. And i suggest always to deal with a _P.cambridgei_, and genus _Psalmopoeus_ in general, before jumping into OW's, a "no mans land" <-- lol, where even a bulky _P.muticus_ is able to amaze you with her "hiss & (semi) jumps & bites" all of a sudden


true. i don't plan on having any old worlds for a little while. im going to try out a few arboreals, like avic's maybe a P. cambridgei and t. elena or t. gigas. 

once i can comfortably handle a few NW arboreals, ill probably make the jump to a P Metallica. 

and then its all down hill from there.

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## Poec54 (Apr 13, 2016)

Tanner Dzula said:


> true. i don't plan on having any old worlds for a little while. im going to try out a few arboreals, like avic's maybe a P. cambridgei and t. elena or t. gigas.
> 
> once i can comfortably handle a few NW arboreals, ill probably make the jump to a P Metallica.
> 
> and then its all down hill from there.


 
I've got most of the arboreal genera except Taps, and I'm in no hurry there.  They are incredibly fast.  I get enough sprinters as it is.  Once the lid is off, they can be a brown blur racing across the walls and ceiling.  Sounds like fun, huh?  Cambridgei are pretty quick when they're young, but with age they settle down and don't run around without a good reason.  Relatively easy to work with, you just have to be careful with their feeding responses.  On two occasions I've had AF cambridgei grab the clean, empty water bowl I was putting in their cage, snatch it out of my forceps, wrestle with it, and roll over on their backs still clutching and biting it.  You *do not* want that feeding response on a stray finger. 

Avics get recommended as first arboreals, not because their care is easy to dial in, but because although fast, they don't have the speed of most of the other arboreals. When you get into Psalmos, Taps, and the OW arboreals, you're stepping up to the Indy cars of the tarantula world.  This is not a decision to be made lightly.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Chris LXXIX (Apr 13, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> I've got most of the arboreal genera except Taps, and I'm in no hurry there.  They are incredibly fast.  I get enough sprinters as it is.  Once the lid is off, they can be a brown blur racing across the walls and ceiling.  Sounds like fun, huh?  Cambridgei are pretty quick when they're young, but with age they settle down and don't run around without a good reason.  Relatively easy to work with, you just have to be careful with their feeding responses.  On two occasions I've had AF cambridgei grab the clean, empty water bowl I was putting in their cage, snatch it out of my forceps, wrestle with it, and roll over on their backs still clutching and biting it.  You *do not* want that feeding response on a stray finger.
> 
> Avics get recommended as first arboreals, not because their care is easy to dial in, but because although fast, they don't have the speed of most of the other arboreals. When you get into Psalmos, Taps, and the OW arboreals, you're stepping up to the Indy cars of the tarantula world.  This is not a decision to be made lightly.




I started in 1992 (more or less was January) as an unruly but somewhat educated with spiders  (like that lots of _L.rufescens_ caught in cool, humid _Lombardy _cellars during summer spiders catching days) _Slayer _teen fan 

My first T's were a _G.rosea_ and an _A.avicularia. _Classics. Sadly, the _G.rosea_ turned into a 1.0 (traded him, back then was possible, the ban was far) and, the _A.avicularia_, a juvenile specimen, as well after some months.

Why? Why the "Avic" then? Well... because one day, at the breeder/keeper shop, my mentor btw, we (we, to be honest, since my Bro back then was teaming) fall in love with _P.cambridgei_.

"Watch her" <-- showing me a 0.1 adult _P.cambridgei "_She comes straight from _Trinidad. _Now those *ARE *arboreals!"

Ah ah ah, granted, those were CB as hell, but i/we was young, and was "cool" to believe, back then, to such tales 

"Give me one!" <-- me/we 

"No. No you can't!" but laughing.

"Trust us, man! Give us one!"

"No! Too fast! You aren't prepared!" he said.

We managed, after a couple more of that, to end up with a _P.cambridgei_ sling for miracle.

Not the best "ladder", of course, but we managed to raise him (again, a 1.0 lol) well.

Years passed, gained more experience, _P.cambridgei_ had written 'frebie' all over, lost the count of the slings/juvenile i've traded prior 2003 (had others 'Psalmos' as well) but one thing... i still remember today the first time i've seen that arboreal 0.1 beast.

They are very, very fast, 100% true. But unlike 'Baboon' arboreals (i still remember a certain _S.calceatum_ re-house lol) not high strung. Their venom isn't a walk in the park (especially compared to the average "Brachy & Grammo & Grammo & Brachy") ok, but they aren't defensive.

They are a lovely, "greenish", bluff  fast, but "gentle".

My views on "Avics": while indeed they are class A T's, no doubts, genus _Avicularia _can't, IMO, teach something really important to someone *really *interested in a serious "arboreal track" that will lead him/her into Asian (maybe not "shy" 'Pokies' but, for instance, genus _Lampropelma _ones) and African arboreal ones.

But genus _Psalmopoeus_, yes if they can

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## Chris LXXIX (Apr 13, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> Cambridgei


P.S

"Cambridgei?"

_P.cambridgei_ at least 

Sorry, Poec54, couldn't resist, man

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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 13, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> I've got most of the arboreal genera except Taps, and I'm in no hurry there.  They are incredibly fast.  I get enough sprinters as it is.  Once the lid is off, they can be a brown blur racing across the walls and ceiling.  Sounds like fun, huh?  Cambridgei are pretty quick when they're young, but with age they settle down and don't run around without a good reason.  Relatively easy to work with, you just have to be careful with their feeding responses.  On two occasions I've had AF cambridgei grab the clean, empty water bowl I was putting in their cage, snatch it out of my forceps, wrestle with it, and roll over on their backs still clutching and biting it.  You *do not* want that feeding response on a stray finger.
> 
> Avics get recommended as first arboreals, not because their care is easy to dial in, but because although fast, they don't have the speed of most of the other arboreals. When you get into Psalmos, Taps, and the OW arboreals, you're stepping up to the Indy cars of the tarantula world.  This is not a decision to be made lightly.



very true, and believe me i won't be making it too lightly. 

I mean the reason i was a T. gigas or another tap is because, from what I've read they are as fast as OW arboreals, but not nearly as venomous or as mechanically damaging, or painful as some OW (IE: I've heard OBT bites can feel more painful then rattlesnake bites even) 

While i don't know how true that is, i mean, it is the internet so i figured id do my research on here first and make a few questioning posts before i ever made a decision like that, but on top of it, they are a T i would love to own, as like a pre-requisite to an OBT and a pokie.


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## Poec54 (Apr 13, 2016)

Tanner Dzula said:


> I mean the reason i was a T. gigas or another tap is because, from what I've read they are as fast as OW arboreals.



The consensus here seems to be that they're _faster _than OW arboreals.  While the bite isn't as bad, do you want to be moving furniture and appliances to catch it?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 14, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> The consensus here seems to be that they're _faster _than OW arboreals.  While the bite isn't as bad, do you want to be moving furniture and appliances to catch it?


True i wouldnt, but im also not the type to do any re-housing in say, the middle of a crowded kitchen. 

Im not saying im going to go out tomorrow and get one, but eventually yea.  I obviously do want to test the waters with some other before hand and get some much needed experience of coufse. 
its just one of those things, eventually i *will* have one, for me it just depends how long it will be before i feel _comfortable_ getting one.

Im not the smartest guy, but im not that dumb either. i mean theres a reason i choose a B. Albopilosum/L. Parahybana/  as my first T's over, say, the P. Mettalica's or OBT that i really wanted, because i know i need experience before i just jump into something that advanced.

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## Poec54 (Apr 14, 2016)

Tanner Dzula said:


> there's a reason i choose a B. Albopilosum/L. Parahybana/  as my first T's over, say, the P. Mettalica's or OBT that i really wanted, because i know i need experience before i just jump into something that advanced.



Good to hear.  We've had beginners come here and brag about how easy their OBT sling was (_'Nothing to it!'_).  Then a few months later it's grown a lot, they're afraid of it because of it's temper and speed, and put it up for sale.  There's not reason for that scenario to keep playing out. 

There's beautiful tarantulas for every experience level, and no matter how many years you've been in the hobby, you may still want to own some of the calmer, 'beginner' species.  I have some B smithi and A chalcodes myself because they're so beautiful.

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## Toxoderidae (Apr 14, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> Good to hear.  We've had beginners come here and brag about how easy their OBT sling was (_'Nothing to it!'_).  Then a few months later it's grown a lot, they're afraid of it because of it's temper and speed, and put it up for sale.  There's not reason for that scenario to keep playing out.
> 
> There's beautiful tarantulas for every experience level, and no matter how many years you've been in the hobby, you may still want to own some of the calmer, 'beginner' species.  I have some B smithi and A chalcodes myself because they're so beautiful.


My friend Mark is just getting into tarantulas, and at the exotic store he works at, some dude dropped off an OBT, and now they have to care for it. Luckily the owners keep tarantulas, so they are fairly experienced, but it still shows just people will underestimate these animals, as slings almost any T can look harmless.

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## Tanner Dzula (Apr 14, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> Good to hear.  We've had beginners come here and brag about how easy their OBT sling was (_'Nothing to it!'_).  Then a few months later it's grown a lot, they're afraid of it because of it's temper and speed, and put it up for sale.  There's not reason for that scenario to keep playing out.
> 
> There's beautiful tarantulas for every experience level, and no matter how many years you've been in the hobby, you may still want to own some of the calmer, 'beginner' species.  I have some B smithi and A chalcodes myself because they're so beautiful.


Very true, and thats exactly what i didnt want to happen to begin with. 

And i will say i do not regret it, while pretty docile *so far*  Our A. Genic/B. albopilosum have been beautiful and really amazing. 
Still waiting for out L. Parahybana to get used to her enclosure, its been about a week at this point since i first picked her up, and she's finally started coming out of her hide to explore around


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## dUFF2dUFF (May 17, 2016)

So... After a months or so I'm starting to get a few problems with my T... I had to move house so a car journey was necessary which I don't think it liked. Since then it has only really been climbing the side of its enclosure. It still goes into its hive every time there is movement and it seems very skittish in general (which is ok since it wasn't really much calmer before the move). However, it isn't eating either, and in addition to that, I added sand to cover the top of the substrate, hoping that it would prefer it to the coco fibre but I don't think that was a good idea since I read that they can suffocate from that? It is only a very small layer to soften the substrate. I am aware that the T may be in pre-molt but it shows no signs of it apart from the lack of appetite...

 I also need to change that toilet roll that I used for its hive but I've had no success in finding cork bark (for a reasonable price) which has been recommended to me. Is there anything else that I could use for a hive? I found stuff like this: 
http://www.pet-bliss.ie/acatalog/Reptile_Caves_and_Dens.html but those are made for reptiles and i'm unsure whether it would like it or not... Any recommendations/advice? Thanks in advance!


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## Trenor (May 17, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> So... After a months or so I'm starting to get a few problems with my T... I had to move house so a car journey was necessary which I don't think it liked. Since then it has only really been climbing the side of its enclosure. It still goes into its hive every time there is movement and it seems very skittish in general (which is ok since it wasn't really much calmer before the move). However, it isn't eating either, and in addition to that, I added sand to cover the top of the substrate, hoping that it would prefer it to the coco fibre but I don't think that was a good idea since I read that they can suffocate from that? It is only a very small layer to soften the substrate. I am aware that the T may be in pre-molt but it shows no signs of it apart from the lack of appetite...
> 
> I also need to change that toilet roll that I used for its hive but I've had no success in finding cork bark (for a reasonable price) which has been recommended to me. Is there anything else that I could use for a hive? I found stuff like this:
> http://www.pet-bliss.ie/acatalog/Reptile_Caves_and_Dens.html but those are made for reptiles and i'm unsure whether it would like it or not... Any recommendations/advice? Thanks in advance!


Hey and welcome, it would be easier to help if we knew which species of tarantula you own. Care varies from one species to the next.

I've never used it but from what I understand sand will not hurt your tarantula. 

The tarantula might be resettling after the move if it was jostled or it might be one who is prone to going on fasts for longer periods of time. We will know more when we know what you own.

I like corkbark for hides but you can use a lot of other things as well. Clay pots, PVC pipe, flat piece of wood with a starter burrow underneath, plants webbed up, etc.

Lets us know what you have and we can help more.


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## dUFF2dUFF (May 17, 2016)

Trenor said:


> Hey and welcome, it would be easier to help if we knew which species of tarantula you own. Care varies from one species to the next.
> 
> I've never used it but from what I understand sand will not hurt your tarantula.
> 
> ...


It is a juvenile Brachypelma Smithi (mexican red knee). Forgot to mention it sorry and thanks for the reply! The clay pot seems like a good idea and now that you've said it I've been recommended it on this forum before. I'm sure there is one lying around somewhere.. I guess I'll just have to sterilize it (boil it) and remove the dirt or are there any extra measures I have to take? Also what is the best way of removing the toilet roll? Everytime I move the enclosure the T goes back in there... Would it be a bit harsh to just lift it out while it is still inside? I feel like it would stress it out too much...


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## Trenor (May 17, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> It is a juvenile Brachypelma Smithi (mexican red knee). Forgot to mention it sorry and thanks for the reply! The clay pot seems like a good idea and now that you've said it I've been recommended it on this forum before. I'm sure there is one lying around somewhere.. I guess I'll just have to sterilize it (boil it) and remove the dirt or are there any extra measures I have to take? Also what is the best way of removing the toilet roll? Everytime I move the enclosure the T goes back in there... Would it be a bit harsh to just lift it out while it is still inside? I feel like it would stress it out too much...


I would just wash it thoroughly to make sure it was clean then let it dry.  

If there is room you could add the new hide in place and then use a straw or paintbrush to slowly get the tarantula out of the tube. It'll most likely run to the new hide for cover then remove the tube. If there isn't enough room for that I'd use the straw/paintbrush to move it into a catch cup and rearrange the enclosure then move the T back in. I would do the second one and maybe mix the sand into the rest of the substrate while I was working on the enclosure. This would be a great time to do any other enclosure work needed while you are at it.

My B.smithi has went without eating before but not for long. It's still a sling though. You can always try prekilled and see if that works. Look at it's abdomen and if it's plump I wouldn't worry too much. Make sure it has a lot of fresh water and it should be ok.

Let me know how it goes.


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## dUFF2dUFF (May 17, 2016)

Trenor said:


> I would just wash it thoroughly to make sure it was clean then let it dry.
> 
> If there is room you could add the new hide in place and then use a straw or paintbrush to slowly get the tarantula out of the tube. It'll most likely run to the new hide for cover then remove the tube. If there isn't enough room for that I'd use the straw/paintbrush to move it into a catch cup and rearrange the enclosure then move the T back in. I would do the second one and maybe mix the sand into the rest of the substrate while I was working on the enclosure. This would be a great time to do any other enclosure work needed while you are at it.
> 
> ...


Well my T dug through to the other side of the toilet roll (two entrances) so I guess I could just put the paintbrush in one side so that it comes out the other. 

The T has a very large abdomen at the moment so maybe it is just full... I think I may have overfed it during the first few weeks... I was mainly worried about the sand to be honest since I read that it can suffocate them. Also the T seems to go onto the side of its enclosure A LOT more since the move. I mean it did it before as well but it would still sometimes just sit on its hive. I think I will just re-do the entire enclosure with a bit more thought and hope that it feels a bit more home then. At the same time I don't really want to mess around with the enclosure too much, and since I have only recently added the sand and two stones I may just give it another week before I do anything else... I've heard that they don't like it if we mess too much with the enclosure, causing them to be more skittish/stressed?

And in terms of water, I haven't really been moisturizing the substrate very much but I have been supplying a small dish of water. Problem is that my T never goes to the side of the enclosure were the water is... Should I be keeping one half of the substrate moist at all times?


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## Trenor (May 17, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> Well my T dug through to the other side of the toilet roll (two entrances) so I guess I could just put the paintbrush in one side so that it comes out the other.


 Put your catch cup on one side and use the brush to gently move it into the cup from the other side.



dUFF2dUFF said:


> The T has a very large abdomen at the moment so maybe it is just full... I think I may have overfed it during the first few weeks... I was mainly worried about the sand to be honest since I read that it can suffocate them. Also the T seems to go onto the side of its enclosure A LOT more since the move. I mean it did it before as well but it would still sometimes just sit on its hive. I think I will just re-do the entire enclosure with a bit more thought and hope that it feels a bit more home then. At the same time I don't really want to mess around with the enclosure too much, and since I have only recently added the sand and two stones I may just give it another week before I do anything else... I've heard that they don't like it if we mess too much with the enclosure, causing them to be more skittish/stressed?


Post a photo of your enclosure so we can see what it looks like and offer better help.



dUFF2dUFF said:


> And in terms of water, I haven't really been moisturizing the substrate very much but I have been supplying a small dish of water. Problem is that my T never goes to the side of the enclosure were the water is... Should I be keeping one half of the substrate moist at all times?


 No need to dampen the substrate for a B.smithi. I'd just keep the water dish full and fresh. It'll go drink if it needs to.


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## darkness975 (May 17, 2016)

Post a picture of the spider and the habitat. 

It might be in pre-molt, especially if the abdomen is large and it is refusing food. 

Yes you can use various hides , including some of the ones you posted. Clay pot or half log is easier though.


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## dUFF2dUFF (May 17, 2016)

Trenor said:


> Put your catch cup on one side and use the brush to gently move it into the cup from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I will get around to taking a picture tomorrow of both the enclosure and the T. It's a bit late right now.

Reactions: Like 1


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## dUFF2dUFF (May 19, 2016)

Trenor said:


> Put your catch cup on one side and use the brush to gently move it into the cup from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Here it is  Sorry for late reply my internet wasn't working yesterday


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## EulersK (May 19, 2016)

Ugh... sand... not terrible, but not great. 

It's hard to tell from the picture, but that looks like it could be a bad fall. It's frankly not that big of a deal as a juvie, but given the growth rate of these, it'll be a plump juvie for a long time. I'd personally raise the substrate quite a bit, and while you're at it, use coco fiber or topsoil. This species has no need nor desire to climb, no reason to give it the ability to. Again, it might be fine - I'm viewing these pictures on a phone, so I could be off base. 

Concerning your hide, is that open on both ends? A tarantula wouldn't like that, it's not secure enough. Try using a terracotta pot or a half log buried at an angle. They need to be able to get in there snugly. 

I will say that there is no sign of a heat mat, misting, or gauges of any kind  Good for you on that one, you missed most of the new hobbyist issues.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Trenor (May 19, 2016)

Yeah, I'd put a catch cup on the wide open side and then use a bendy straw in the other side to move him out of the hide. Then do the enclosure work you need. I'd swap out the substrate as I prefer topsoil/coco fiber like EulersK mentioned and fill it up higher. I'd remove the large rocks because of falls. If you want some decor add some plants/moss or sculpt the substrate. 

What did you decide to go with for your hide replacement?

Let us know how it goes.


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## dUFF2dUFF (May 19, 2016)

EulersK said:


> Ugh... sand... not terrible, but not great.
> 
> It's hard to tell from the picture, but that looks like it could be a bad fall. It's frankly not that big of a deal as a juvie, but given the growth rate of these, it'll be a plump juvie for a long time. I'd personally raise the substrate quite a bit, and while you're at it, use coco fiber or topsoil. This species has no need nor desire to climb, no reason to give it the ability to. Again, it might be fine - I'm viewing these pictures on a phone, so I could be off base.
> 
> ...


What are the signs of a bad fall? And why would it be plump because of this? I will raise the substrate nevertheless, I have some spare coco fiber. 

Concerning the hide, the T buried itself the second entrance. The crickets kept running into its hide and it got a bit scared, so it dug out the second entrance... Maybe it did it accidentally, I don't know to be honest but it always backs out the back if something comes through the front entrance. 

And I created this thread so I got a lot of advice against heat mats, thermometers, etc. This forum seems very good for that!


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## dUFF2dUFF (May 19, 2016)

Trenor said:


> Yeah, I'd put a catch cup on the wide open side and then use a bendy straw in the other side to move him out of the hide. Then do the enclosure work you need. I'd swap out the substrate as I prefer topsoil/coco fiber like EulersK mentioned and fill it up higher. I'd remove the large rocks because of falls. If you want some decor add some plants/moss or sculpt the substrate.
> 
> What did you decide to go with for your hide replacement?
> 
> Let us know how it goes.


Ok, I will do as you said. Concerning the rocks however, they are not taller than the spider's length so I thought it would be ok to use them? They also have a very smooth slope. I could also just dig them into the substrate a bit so they are less tall?

I thought I had a clay pot, but it ended up being made out of plastic... Is that ok to use? If not I could always find a plank of wood since I'm currently in the countryside. I just don't want the wood to decay or anything...


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## Trenor (May 19, 2016)

dUFF2dUFF said:


> And why would it be plump because of this? I will raise the substrate nevertheless, I have some spare coco fiber.


I'm not sure about it looking like it had a fall. The low substrate can result in a longer fall and if a T is too plump some believe they will incur more damage from the fall.



dUFF2dUFF said:


> Ok, I will do as you said. Concerning the rocks however, they are not taller than the spider's length so I thought it would be ok to use them? They also have a very smooth slope. I could also just dig them into the substrate a bit so they are less tall?


A lot of people don't keep rocks/other large hard things in the enclosures for fall reasons as well. They are more likely to damage the T if landed on in a fall from the top of the enclosure.



dUFF2dUFF said:


> I thought I had a clay pot, but it ended up being made out of plastic... Is that ok to use? If not I could always find a plank of wood since I'm currently in the countryside. I just don't want the wood to decay or anything...


It should, I have seen PVC pipe that was cut and used and it worked fine. I would just use it the same way you would the clay pot. Cut it if you'd like our leave it whole and bury part of it. Some like to leave it on top of the substrate but I bury almost all my hides. One thing to note I and others like to use corkbark because it will not mold or decay. So you wouldn't have that worry if you decide to go that route.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## EulersK (May 19, 2016)

@Trenor pretty much said it all. It's not that a fall will cause the spider to be plump, it's that these are very stocky spiders, and thus very heavy. A fall when you're heavy hurts worse than a fall when you're skinny. I honestly don't see an issue with the rocks, so long as you raise the substrate. As you said, there are no sharp corners.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## dUFF2dUFF (May 19, 2016)

Trenor said:


> I'm not sure about it looking like it had a fall. The low substrate can result in a longer fall and if a T is too plump some believe they will incur more damage from the fall.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ok will will go with the plastic pot so. I tried to find some cork bark but I had no success. I mean I found some on amazon but delivery to Ireland was 30£ so I changed my mind... Pet shop is also more than one and a half hours drive away (at least one that has all the fancy pet stuff, I can get crickets close to me). I will re-house the T tonight and post another picture to show how it looks. Thanks for the advice!

Reactions: Like 1


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