# Creating ventilation holes in plastic containers



## the nature boy (May 29, 2008)

I've tried to create ventilation holes with a drill which created a multitude of cracks to accompany the holes.  Any suggestions for how else to make holes?

--the nature boy


----------



## crpy (May 29, 2008)

the nature boy said:


> I've tried to create ventilation holes with a drill which created a multitude of cracks to accompany the holes.  Any suggestions for how else to make holes?
> 
> --the nature boy


There is a thread on this somewhere, but I like to heat a 1/8 metal rod and melt through, that way I do not get cracks. just pick the melted pieces off.
crpy


----------



## Nerri1029 (May 29, 2008)

I have used the following methods:

- reg drill.

- high speed dremmel tool

- melting with hot wire etc.


all have their problems.

- reg drill is bad for brittle plastics. a SHARP bit is a requirement but you still run the risks of cracking

- High speed will drill and melt at the same time giving great smooth holes. but the bit get plugged with melted plastic 

- hot wire, the odor from this gets me sick. too much exposure to nasty organic substances I guess. but the safest method with respect to cracking or marring. ( USE VENTILATION !! )


----------



## Crazy0monkey (May 29, 2008)

Like i have the same problem with you sometimes. Took 2 containers, drilled one fine and cracked hte other> Its all about the ammount of presure you use. GO slower and it should be ok. I know it sucks and iv done it a few times. Melting holes can work 2 but iv never done it


----------



## Moltar (May 29, 2008)

If you want to use a drill, put masking tape on the area you'll be drilling and then just go SLOW. Using a new, sharp bit obviously helps as well. As a side note, you can draw lines on the tape and make little marks where you're going to drill so your holes are nice and symmetrical.


----------



## peterUK (May 29, 2008)

I use a soldering iron in a ventilated room, works for me  

I use the type with the pointed tip rather than flat screwdriver type because you can use the very tip for small holes (slings) and the varying length of the rest for different sized holes.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Eclipse-15-...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting


----------



## anaconda19 (May 29, 2008)

candle and a dart/nail/metalbar/ anything that wont melt but will get hot, put in candle for ten secnds or so then melt ur way through the plastic.  if your drilling you should put the surface ur drilling flat on another solid surface such as a wooden bench then drill through it, it is the pressure of you pushing the drill which is the main cause for cracks so pushing it onto something makes it crack a LOT less.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Skullptor (May 29, 2008)

I use a BB gun. ;P


----------



## saminthemiddle (May 29, 2008)

Get the right tool for the job and buy yourself a set of acrylic drill bits. They really do a much better job than plain old wood or multi purpose bits can do. They last longer as well because the bit is either carbide or diamond tipped.

Just to give you an example I recently A/B tested a new 1/8" acrylic bit and brand new 1/8" general purpose bit on a scrap piece of 1/16" acrylic. The general purpose bit cracked the plastic almost in two not to mention the chipping ect... The acrylic bit made a perfect hole every time. 

I invested about 15 dollars in my three bits (1/8", 5/32" and 1/4") and couldn't be happier with them. Unlike soldering irons they don't leave a melty mess and unlike standard drill bits I'm not constantly throwing out ruined boxes. They paid for themselves in a single use just in terms of material saved.

The drill bits I use:

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=161&

They come in sizes up to 1/2" Get some as no hobbyist can afford to be without a set.

And yes, I can reliably and quickly drill 1/4" holes in even the thinnest acrylic with perfect results. Just be careful that your drill isn't busted as a wobbly drill bit from an off balance chuck will still ruin work even with the best bit.


----------



## crpy (May 29, 2008)

saminthemiddle said:


> And yes, I can reliably and quickly drill 1/4" holes in even the thinnest acrylic with perfect results. Just be careful that your drill isn't busted as a wobbly drill bit from an off balance chuck will still ruin work even with the best bit.


Thats why.......I'm melting.....melting....oh what a world...what a world...ahhhhhhh!


----------



## saminthemiddle (May 29, 2008)

crpy said:


> Thats why.......I'm melting.....melting....oh what a world...what a world...ahhhhhhh!


True, but then you end up with a melty mess surrounding the hole. While you will never *ruin* an enclosure to where it can't be used you will never achieve anything approaching professional results with melting. In fact melty holes look amateurish and down right ugly.

Acrylic bits give you professional results that look like they came right out of the factory.


----------



## AubZ (May 29, 2008)

I prefer a hand drill so I can control the speed.   Then I use metal drill bits as they go through the easiest and quickest.


----------



## ttula (May 29, 2008)

I use a candle or a lighter to heat a nail (holding the nail with pliers) and poke the holes that way. You can use a knife or a razor blade to snap off the melty bits around the holes if they really bother you.


----------



## AubZ (May 29, 2008)

It just takes way to long if you over cautious and want 100 vent holes.


----------



## crpy (May 29, 2008)

saminthemiddle said:


> Acrylic bits give you professional results that look like they came right out of the factory.


Just throwin some humor there

And you are right , if I worried about getting pro results, my way just serves the purpose, no harm no foul


----------



## MVDaniel (May 29, 2008)

Look at some of my other threads about the lids that I've made. I just use a high speed drillpress and go through slowly. Most recently I put over 500 holes in a sheet of acrylic without a single crack.


----------



## hairmetalspider (May 29, 2008)

I made a post exactly like this about two weeks ago.

After following the advice of others and trying a few things, it came to this:

Use a drill but made sure pressure is applied to the other side (Firm bottom) and drill slowly with applied pressure. It's pretty simple and cheap, you just have to get he hang of it.


----------



## vbrooke (May 29, 2008)

Plastic or plexiglass? For plastic(deli cups) I use a meat thermometer with gentle pressure, and support on the opposite side with finger on each side of where I'm making the hole. Works every time. 

Vicki


----------



## betuana (May 29, 2008)

hairmetalspider said:


> Use a drill but made sure pressure is applied to the other side (Firm bottom) and drill slowly with applied pressure.


For most things that I've tried to drill holes in I've found this to be the key. If you can put some sort of support on the opposite side you are drilling it helps alot. Even when we are drilling holes in woodblanks for turnings we put a scrap piece under the piece we are drilling (if we have to drill all the way through with the drill press) because it gives support on the other side as the drill breaks through. When we don't do this the chance of the wood blank shattering goes up ALOT. So support should help.

Going slow, tape around it, right type of bit, etc are also good tips. Had to drill holes in a large rubbermaid container last summer, the ones I cracked were the ones I rushed..


----------



## saminthemiddle (May 29, 2008)

Yeah, whet people are saying about backing really does help but sometimes you still get chips. 

Honestly, I still strongly recommend the investment in an acrylic drill bit. They work much better and they pay for themselves the first time you use them (or don't, and break an expensive piece of acrylic).

Henry Ford once said that "if you don't buy the right tools you will pay for it anyway but you won't have your tool." I think that applies big-time to this application.


----------

