# Share one unique bit of advice!!!



## x Mr Awesome x (Oct 21, 2009)

I think that this could be an interesting thread. What I'm asking for is simple. Name one very valuable lesson or bit of advice you could offer the community that you personally learned first hand! No books, no friends, experts, etc. Just an experience that you learned from. I'll start:

Several months ago I received a beautiful A. versicolor sling as a freebie. First thing I did when I got it home was take it home and rehouse it. I had noticed during the rehousing that it was quite plump in the abdomen. Here's a pic:





So I yanked it from it's comfy little plastic cup that it was familiar and lined with webbing and placed it in it's new acrylic Michael's cube. It died the next day in an attempted molt. After talking to the seller we concluded that because the sling had spent a great deal of time webbing in preparation for a molt. It had neither the energy nor the web 'hammock' to molt properly. 
 So now I take the extra precaution of not removing a new T from it's established area until the next molt or unless I am certain that it has molted very recently. 
your turn,
-ben


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## dantediss (Oct 21, 2009)

Mine would be thinking i had a nice escape proof tank for my p. miranda...Til i realized wrong when somehow he was on my wall and his tank was forced open, Well new tank and thank you for locks


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## Teal (Oct 21, 2009)

*I learned that even if a T is holed up for THREE months and hasn't eaten or emerged... leave it alone! 

I made the mistake of moving my P. lugardi female to a new enclosure (I was doing it with everyone) and now I think I've really disturbed whatever process she had going on... whether it was being in premolt or gravid. *


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## Ariel (Oct 21, 2009)

Even the most docile and calm T can flip.

I have 3" poss. female _B. vagans_ who is extraordinarily calm and sweet but she unfortunately has a habit of knocking over her water dish. So one day I was filling up her water dish and she shot across the enclosure threw up an impressive threat display and smacked the water dish.  

Heres my pretty girl:


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## Sterlingspider (Oct 21, 2009)

It is way more pleasant (and downright easier) to care for a dozen tarantulas then a dozen crickets. 

Get enough tarantulas to immediately eat all of the crickets you buy and you will be a much happier tarantula keeper.


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## Redneck (Oct 21, 2009)

Sterlingspider said:


> It is way more pleasant (and downright easier) to care for a dozen tarantulas then a dozen crickets.
> 
> Get enough tarantulas to immediately eat all of the crickets you buy and you will be a much happier tarantula keeper.


+1 This is what I have learned.. I HATE crickets!!


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## jayefbe (Oct 21, 2009)

I'm sure everyone but the newest newbies know this, but it was a huge lesson for me in this hobby.

Do rehousings in a tub or a big open room with no place for the T's to hide.  Rehousings used to stress me out, especially when your P cambridgei decides to bolt.  But knowing that they'll only go a few feet at a time, and have nowhere to go makes everything so much easier.


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## Hobo (Oct 21, 2009)

When feeding live adult female crickets to your Ts, snip off the ovipositor before throwing them in. Alternatively, keep them in a container with moist substrate until they finish laying before throwing them in.


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## Steve Calceatum (Oct 21, 2009)

*Lesson 1:* Do Your Research before purchasing!!!!! My first T was bought on impulse, knowing jack about keeping a tarantula, or how many were available to the hobby. All I knew was "Rose-Hair." :wall: 

*Lesson 2:* Tarantulas Often Vary From What is Expected!!! I've heard _P. cambridgei_ was the calmest of the Psalmos.....mine is a super-mean one!!!! Pokies and OBTs are not as bad as they're made out to be, and even the most docile tarantula will bite. I have an S. cal that hides from everything, an OBT that runs from it's food, a _C. fasciatum_ that never hides, a _P. irminia_ pet-hole, and I have a GBB that thinks it's an OBT.

Finally, be prepared to to battle or shrug off alot of ridicule from friends, family, co-workers, etc. And always remember that any little spider with pink-toes has the power to change even the hardest heart!!!!


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## MissChelly (Oct 21, 2009)

I don't have any good input since I'm currently in preps for my first tarantula, BUT... I think this topic is a wonderful idea. (and helpful to me too, might I add!)

Ariel: That picture is too cute!


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## thebugwife (Oct 21, 2009)

Always keep an empty deli handy when transferring anything.


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## Ariel (Oct 21, 2009)

MissChelly said:


> I don't have any good input since I'm currently in preps for my first tarantula, BUT... I think this topic is a wonderful idea. (and helpful to me too, might I add!)
> 
> Ariel: That picture is too cute!


You can learn a lot from this forum, but one day I promise you, you'll have your own story to tell here.  

And thanks, it's almost the perfect picture except for that obnoxious dog hair hanging from her leg. I'm trying to figure out how to photoshop it out of there.


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## arachna-nono (Oct 21, 2009)

Hobo said:


> When feeding live adult female crickets to your Ts, snip off the ovipositor before throwing them in. Alternatively, keep them in a container with moist substrate until they finish laying before throwing them in.


If you only buy a few at a time, don't hesitate to ask the person grabbing them for you to get only males.  I have no problem suggesting this to my customers, and since I have 1,000-2,000 to pull from at any given time, it's not hard to come up with a couple bucks worth of males...


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## lilmoonrabbit (Oct 21, 2009)

drying ecoearth (or any coco coir) in the oven is a PITA. As much as you may want to a lot in the oven at once to dry in bulk... just do many batches of very thin layers. Overall, the process goes much faster that way. 

Tarantulas do things on their time, which is much different from our time. Let them do things at their pace, and don't worry yourself about it. If they don't want to eat, and they haven't eaten in a couple weeks... no need to worry. They won't intentionally do anything to hurt themselves, so just let nature take its course and they'll be fine.


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## Vaughn (Oct 21, 2009)

jayefbe said:


> I'm sure everyone but the newest newbies know this, but it was a huge lesson for me in this hobby.
> 
> Do rehousings in a tub or a big open room with no place for the T's to hide.  Rehousings used to stress me out, especially when your P cambridgei decides to bolt.  But knowing that they'll only go a few feet at a time, and have nowhere to go makes everything so much easier.


Added note for tub rehousing , if you wet down the walls you won't have to retrieve one off the ceiling . They stop dead in their tracks when they hit the water .

Reactions: Like 1


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## Moltar (Oct 21, 2009)

Use a peat/vermiculite mix as substrate for spiders who like it moist such as Haplopelma, Theraphosa, etc. Coco fiber tends to mold when kept moist over time. Peat is slightly acidic and tends prevent fungal growth. However, once peat dries out completely it is more difficult to re-hydrate than coco so try to keep it a little moist.

Using isopods in an enclosure also can help prevent mold but it the coco takes off with mold/fungal growth the iso's won't be able to keep up.


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## Big Red TJ (Oct 21, 2009)

Always wash your hands and clean around you working area when handling New worlds or rehousing them.  (side note) T. blondi hair really isn't fun to get on you.


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## Julia (Oct 21, 2009)

Sterlingspider said:


> It is way more pleasant (and downright easier) to care for a dozen tarantulas then a dozen crickets.
> 
> Get enough tarantulas to immediately eat all of the crickets you buy and you will be a much happier tarantula keeper.


I love how you say, "get enough tarantulas to eat all of the crickets you buy" instead of saying, "don't get too many crickets for the number of tarantulas you have."  :clap: 

My advice:  Never underestimate the potential speed of an agitated tarantula.  Even the calmest specimen can suddenly get a burst of energy and surprise you.


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## night4now (Oct 21, 2009)

*$1*

Find your local dollar store. It will be your very best friend!
Eventually they will know your name!


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## Abby (Oct 21, 2009)

Buy some long tweezers so you can pick up poop or food bolus from the T's tank.  It's better to reach with the tweezers into their tank than with your hand.


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## KJE (Oct 21, 2009)

1.  Never try to nudge food items toward your t with your finger....you never know when they might be getting ready to pounce. 

2.  Use roaches instead of crickets....they are way easier, don't smell, don't make noise, don't eat each other, several sizes are available at any given time, and they are inexpensive.


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## kucouyf (Oct 21, 2009)

Mine would be, for arboreals, use enclosures with sliding doors.
I have an Avicularia sp. in a container with a top lid.. not funny xD
She closed the lid...litterally :evil:


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## james.m (Oct 21, 2009)

lol, yeah, im not a big fan of top lid aboreal enclosures.


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## Mack&Cass (Oct 21, 2009)

This is a great idea for a thread. My best piece of advice would be to always be aware. When you're opening the enclosure, make sure you know where the T is. This is especially true for arboreals and heavy webbers. Don't get complacent. Mackenzie made the mistake of thinking he could leave our 1" P. ornata's enclosure open while he grabbed the spray bottle...and then the two of us ended up chasing the thing around the room. He didn't think that the P. ornata would bolt, and it did. Animals are unpredictable, you can think you know them inside and out but there's always a chance it will do the opposite of what you think it will.

-Cass


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## skippy (Oct 21, 2009)

don't lean your face in real close to Ts with urticating hairs... they might not like the look of your ugly mug and decide to spray you right in the face


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## reverendsterlin (Oct 21, 2009)

try to keep full cleaning down to once every 5-7 years by using tongs, isopods, and wall wiping to maintain your enclosure. Your T's will appreciate it.


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## cbeard (Oct 21, 2009)

The number one item put to good use in YEARS of dealing with Ts and Herps.....


Cordless drill. 


Even if you never make or fix anything in your home yourself.. just trust me on this.


Also, beanie baby plasitc containers are cheap aboreal spider homes.


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## Mistegirl (Oct 21, 2009)

cbeard said:


> The number one item put to good use in YEARS of dealing with Ts and Herps.....
> 
> 
> Cordless drill.
> ...


Or at least a Dremmel!  Those things are awesome for drilling little holes.

Speaking of little holes... if you think for a second that a hole may possibly be big enough for a sling to squeeze out of it probably is.


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## KJE (Oct 21, 2009)

Use a soldering iron to burn holes into plastic containers.  If you need smaller holes, just don't poke it all the way through.


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## Ariel (Oct 21, 2009)

KJE said:


> Use a soldering iron to burn holes into plastic containers.  If you need smaller holes, just don't poke it all the way through.


I actually found a really neat tool for melting SMALL holes in plastic. Its a styrofoam cutter. you can get them at most any hobby store.


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## ghordy (Oct 21, 2009)

If you must handle your T's, do not do it standing up. Sit down and do it close to the floor... preferably a carpeted floor.


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## sheblob (Oct 21, 2009)

Big Red TJ said:


> Always wash your hands and clean around you working area when handling New worlds or rehousing them.


That's what I was going to say


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## Tapahtyn (Oct 21, 2009)

YOU TOOK MY THREAD LOL!  No really this is a great thread to start.  I've learned not to freak out when your T is on the run.  Not knowing their behavior when they try and make a run for it definately gets the heart pumping.  I don't have a lot of advice except to remain calm if you decide to hold some of your Ts.  When I first got my versi, I was afraid to hold it because it was more "agressive" than an avic.  Well, he just moves quicker.


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## curiousme (Oct 21, 2009)

This is a fun idea for a thread as long as it doesn't turn into all the normal common advice.  I like the idea of wetting the walls, makes perfect sense to me, but I don't know that my brain would have come up with that one.

Here are a few tidbits that I can think of:

*When handling Avicularia(this is the only genus we have tried it with) slings, they always want to go up. So, put your index finger perpendicular to the surface they are crawling on and they are on your hand lickety split.  Then you can handle them easily and safely by letting them climb up your finger to your hand, then repeat as many times as you want.  Ours will generally do this calmly and (usually)slowly for us.  --------This genus also uses misdirection............ meaning they will do short spurts forward in one direction, only to go in a completely different direction for a longer spurt.

*You will drive yourself bonkers trying to figure out why Ts are doing the things they are doing.  We had to accept that we can't always understand, because we are not tarantulas.  Trusting that the T knows what its doing is a hard one, especially if you have had mammals as pets for your whole life.  We had 3 slings burrow down last winter for over two months and I drove myself nuts worrying about them/ wondering if we should dig them up(we didn't), when there was zero reason to.  They all emerged fine, beautifully molted and hungry as the dickens.  This year when the A. _hentzi_ proceeded to do the same thing again, I smiled and thought 'I'll see ya when you're beautiful again'. 

*That messing with the white balance settings on a point and shoot camera in macro mode will still yield great pictures with a little practice.  Also, take multiples of every shot, so you can pick the best one.(this helps me especially right now, because i can still take good pictures with my vision fubarred)

*Even if you are prepared for speed from tiny slings, you will most likely still underestimate it.

*After you hit 10 Ts, just get a colony of B. _lateralis_.  Then you will always have appropriate sized prey and can stop buying the flippin' crickets.

*A Ts attitude/ behavior can completely change after it molts.

*Even though you _say_ you only want one or two, you're lying to yourself and don't even know it.

edited to add: When handling, breathe out in a completely different direction than the T.  Even a little bit of air can cause them to book it.


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## Stopdroproll (Oct 21, 2009)

Don't love your T to death (literally). Sometimes it is best to just leave them alone.


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## Exo (Oct 21, 2009)

Almost anything can be used to house a T...Tupperware, delicups, shoeboxes, rubermaid boxes, the list goes on.....just make sure that the container is translucent.


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## scottyk (Oct 21, 2009)

Here's a little something I've been working on to make breeding my arboreal T's a bit easier...

I put females in 2.5 gallon tanks oriented to open right, and males to the left. The enclosures are mirror images of each other. I top both off with the metal style lids that latch to the inside of the tank frame.

As you can see from the pics below (P. cambridgei pair), I can configure them three ways:

1- Both tanks next to each other with seperate lids.

2- One lid off and one on, then slide them together. This gives all of the benefits of a shark tank, and allows me to judge the mood of both tarantulas without disturbing them.

3- I can slip lid #2 off and give them access to each other without handling or disturbing either. Once they start mating, I move the emtpty tank quietly away and have easy access to break up any aggression. I can slip it back if all looks good, and let the male break off and retreat back to his tank when he's done. 

So far so good with two arboreal pairings....

Enjoy the pics...

Scott


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## scottyk (Oct 21, 2009)

I had to include a better pic of the above,  beautiful MM I received on a breeder loan from Xhexdx


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## curiousme (Oct 21, 2009)

Oooh thought of another one!  Everyday items take on new meaning.  Peanut butter lids, bottle caps..........you will gain a collection of them!


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## XEightLegsX (Oct 21, 2009)

xsyorra said:


> *Lesson 1:* Do Your Research before purchasing!!!!! My first T was bought on impulse, knowing jack about keeping a tarantula, or how many were available to the hobby. All I knew was "Rose-Hair." :wall:
> 
> *Lesson 2:* Tarantulas Often Vary From What is Expected!!! I've heard _P. cambridgei_ was the calmest of the Psalmos.....mine is a super-mean one!!!! Pokies and OBTs are not as bad as they're made out to be, and even the most docile tarantula will bite. I have an S. cal that hides from everything, an OBT that runs from it's food, a _C. fasciatum_ that never hides, a _P. irminia_ pet-hole, and I have a GBB that thinks it's an OBT.
> 
> Finally, be prepared to to battle or shrug off alot of ridicule from friends, family, co-workers, etc. And always remember that any little spider with pink-toes has the power to change even the hardest heart!!!!




I think the best thing i can say is that some times you have to wait for the perfect peice of wood to make your tanks look perfect...We have had a 40gal critter tank for about 4 months now to put our Lasiodora parahybana and we were looking for the best wood to put in it. Jay is a pool tech and found this  perfect wood in one of the last yards that he serviced and wait 4 weeks to ask this woman if he could buy this perfect wood from...He asked today and she was more then happy to GIVE it too him...when he put it in the tank we knew the wait was worth it. point being be selective....its always worth it in the end.

Also....we have a very nice o.b.t who acts nothing like an o.b.t and is a very privet eatter and WILL run from the food untill the lights are out and you leave the room....Also have the pet hole for a P. irminia and our P.paranybana who is one of the easy ts to handle

Cheeto

Reactions: Like 1


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## Moultmaster (Oct 21, 2009)

The most important tool in a tarantula keeper's arsenal is a long handled soft-bristled paintbrush.  I use it for everything from manipulating crickets that are into playing hide and seek rather than see and be eaten, to gently nudging the T's if they're in the way of enclosure maintenance.  Even the most aggressive of T's can be calmed by the gentle stroke of a paintbrush.  I am working on a handling video showing proper use of a paintbrush when handling T's as there are do's and dont's.  Nice OBT Jay and Erica.  How's the handling coming along?  It's Don btw.


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## killy (Oct 21, 2009)

WHAT A GREAT THREAD!  :clap: 

I guess the best advice I've learned from this site is that if the T in question disappears for days in his burrow, as long as he isn't emitting a malodorous pong, he's okay whatever he's doing, so chill and don't worry about it. 

Too bad the rule of this thread is to mention just ONE thing, because the list of good advice/info/intelligence/ tips/hints/disabuse/counsel/sympathy/empathy I've gleaned from this site could go on for days


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## Kuro (Oct 21, 2009)

* T's aren't "just bugs" they have their own personalities and you grow fond of them

** Pokies, OBT's, and other speedy old worlds are not as bad a they seem to be especaily if you go slow and don't spook them




psst Killy, did you get the LP and L. Klugi??


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## Steve Calceatum (Oct 21, 2009)

curiousme said:


> Oooh thought of another one!  Everyday items take on new meaning.  Peanut butter lids, bottle caps..........you will gain a collection of them!


Not even ten minutes ago I was staring at this container my side-salad came in, and thinking, "what could I house in this thing??"


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## Lucille (Oct 21, 2009)

30mm plastic petri dishes make great water dishes for  Ts and they are shallow enough that crickets can climb out.


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## nurunuru (Oct 21, 2009)

There was some talk of methods for making tiny holes in a container to be used for slings.  The cheapest method I've come across (believe I saw it in the tarantula keeper's guide) is to unfold a paper clip and make it into a long U shape.  Then grip it in a pair of long-nosed pliers, heat it over a flame till it's hot and stick it through the container.  Repeat ad infinitum.


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## curiousme (Oct 21, 2009)

Moultmaster said:


> The most important tool in a tarantula keeper's arsenal is a long handled soft-bristled paintbrush.......


Chopsticks work great as well.(plus you have an excuse to go eat Chinese )

We have found that sometimes the Ts seem to dislike a paintbrush, but the chopstick is just fine.


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## curiousme (Oct 21, 2009)

xsyorra said:


> Not even ten minutes ago I was staring at this container my side-salad came in, and thinking, "what could I house in this thing??"


We got one of our enclosures from a yard sale, a little glass jar with a lid.  Worked great for our N. _chromatus_ after his tiny phase.(which went by incredibly fast!!)


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## Stopdroproll (Oct 21, 2009)

curiousme said:


> Chopsticks work great as well.(plus you have an excuse to go eat Chinese )
> 
> We have found that sometimes the Ts seem to dislike a paintbrush, but the chopstick is just fine.


Haha for sure, chopsticks are good. I use them in place of tweezers (yes Asian).


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## Moultmaster (Oct 21, 2009)

curiousme said:


> Chopsticks work great as well.(plus you have an excuse to go eat Chinese )
> 
> We have found that sometimes the Ts seem to dislike a paintbrush, but the chopstick is just fine.



The reason I use a paintbrush is because there's never the chance you might injure the T as there is with tweezers and chopsticks.  More than anything I use my bare hands but when a tool is required I use the brush.


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## tarantulakeeper (Oct 21, 2009)

If you keep your Ts in a small walk-in closet and you use an electric floor heater to keep them warm on cold winter nights...don't neglect to turn it off in the morning. (timers are good tools)  John


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## Stan Schultz (Oct 21, 2009)

x Mr Awesome x said:


> I think that this could be an interesting thread. What I'm asking for is simple. Name one very valuable lesson or bit of advice you could offer the community that you personally learned first hand! No books, no friends, experts, etc. Just an experience that you learned from. ...


*Don't believe anything a pet shop tells you unless you read it either here or on the ATS forum first!* (Even then, if it sounds the least bit hokey, *ASK FIRST!*)

Well, you said "No books, ..."


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## iluvcreepystuff (Oct 21, 2009)

*tricky molts*

my first t molted and i thought the t was the molt and that it was dead but i decided 2 wait a few days and see if it moved. it didnt, so i thought for sure it was dead when removing it i noticed it was hollow and the abdomen was busted out so i took a peek under his hide and that little guy came flyin out! 
If your t is on its back dont flip it over!


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## JasonCrowl (Oct 21, 2009)

*avice*

Use common sense and you should be fine with the OBT's and P. Regalis.   I've had each, and mine have not been near as difficult as advertised.


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## XEightLegsX (Oct 22, 2009)

Moultmaster said:


> The most important tool in a tarantula keeper's arsenal is a long handled soft-bristled paintbrush.  I use it for everything from manipulating crickets that are into playing hide and seek rather than see and be eaten, to gently nudging the T's if they're in the way of enclosure maintenance.  Even the most aggressive of T's can be calmed by the gentle stroke of a paintbrush.  I am working on a handling video showing proper use of a paintbrush when handling T's as there are do's and dont's.  Nice OBT Jay and Erica.  How's the handling coming along?  It's Don btw.


Hey Don. Whats up my friend? I didnt know you were on here. i can only handle my obt with in the first 48 hours after she molts. Then shes back to a crazed killer!


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## whitewolf (Oct 22, 2009)

Tupperware is better than tanks in large numbers. LOL. I learned this the hard way. Now I can't stand having tanks in my T Room for T's or Scorpions.

The bigger totes make great places to keep little containers to keep slings warm. I did it then started see where other people where doing it too. I also learned by doing this and setting a container of water on the spot where the heat mat is it keeps the humidity up inside the big tote and all the containers. :wall: Duhh big incubator. LOL.


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## violentblossom (Oct 22, 2009)

Set a budget before you go to reptile and/or tarantula expos.


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## Endagr8 (Oct 22, 2009)

XEightLegsX said:


> i can only handle my obt with in the first 48 hours after she molts.


Don't do that!  




Never attempt to rehouse pokies, haplos, OBTs, etc. before bedtime...you could be up for a while.


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## Mattyb (Oct 22, 2009)

Shelob1 said:


> Buy some long tweezers so you can pick up poop or food bolus from the T's tank.  It's better to reach with the tweezers into their tank than with your hand.


Have at least two pairs on tongs, cause sometimes one pair isn't enough


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## killy (Oct 22, 2009)

Kuro said:


> psst Killy, did you get the LP and L. Klugi??


 Hey Kuro ... I got the LP, but I opted for a GBB ... this time ... next time around (STOP ME BEFORE I COME HOME WITH MORE !!!) will most likely be a b emilia and ... yes, a KLUGI !!!   

So here's the best advice I've found on this site so far ... DON'T FIGHT THE ADDICTION ... IT'S FUTILE!!!   (especially with pushers like Kuro encouraging the habit hahahahhaha ....)


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## maitre (Oct 22, 2009)

violentblossom said:


> Set a budget before you go to reptile and/or tarantula expos.


Excellent advice that I never, ever follow lol I usually set a budget then end up spending twice that amount.


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## gumby (Oct 22, 2009)

Always have a flexible plan. I know what I will do when my pokie bolts before I take her out of the cage. I call it my SHOW plan. 

(S)it on the ground. 
(H)old onto something with your free hand if you feel like you might flinch that way you can direct your energy into the object you are holding and not in the direction of the spider. I tend to use a pillow or near by blanket.
(O)pen area
(W)atch the people around you as well as the T.


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## x Mr Awesome x (Oct 22, 2009)

Learn your way around Michael's and Hobby Lobby. Those places used to scare the crap out of me and now my fiance and I can both enjoy the experience. It goes something like this: Fiance- looks for wedding stuff Me-pretends to look at wedding stuff while looking for T stuff
It all works out in the end I suppose!
-ben


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## Julia (Oct 22, 2009)

violentblossom said:


> Set a budget before you go to reptile and/or tarantula expos.





maitre said:


> Excellent advice that I never, ever follow lol I usually set a budget then end up spending twice that amount.


Adding on to this....  Set a budget, go to the ATM, take out the amount of cash that equals your budget amount, then leave all credit/debit cards at home or in the possession of someone you're with!  Someone who will NOT give in when you ask to have them back in order to go and get more money!


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## curiousme (Oct 22, 2009)

XEightLegsX said:


> i can only handle my obt* with in the first 48 hours after she molts*. Then shes back to a crazed killer!


 What?!  That's a dangerous practice as the T hasn't been able to harden up yet.


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## yltanisaac (Oct 23, 2009)

Gut fill crickets with oranges = last longer, more pin heads
Gut fill mealworms with oatmeal + spirullina powder + milk power = grows to worms that are big and juicy

Check the lids before leaving T room/ area where you keep your Ts

In tropical areas, change your waterdish every 3 days to prevent mosquito breeding

Always make sure you have a clean plastic bag/container to throw all the food leftovers, mold, dropping etc. near your workplace/T area.


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## ghordy (Oct 23, 2009)

Practice saying loudly, "Heavens to Betsy, it bit my finger!"


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## WelshTan (Oct 23, 2009)

Never ever "think" that you have the guts/courage or invincibility to hold a more defensive T or OW after you have been drinking.... It WONT do you or the T any good and you are much more likely to get bitten through clumsyness brought on by alcohol... I dont think the T would appreciate the fumes either lol


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## seanbond (Oct 23, 2009)

if your t is in premolt, you can increase the humidity to induce a molt.


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## WelshTan (Oct 23, 2009)

Some T's won't "drop a sack" until you have successfully simulated the season changes


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## BCscorp (Oct 23, 2009)

L. parahybanas do not make good loofah sponges


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## WelshTan (Oct 23, 2009)

BCscorp said:


> L. parahybanas do not make good loofah sponges


lol lmao ... you made me spray my laptop screen with cola with that one .... lol 


NEVER READ AB WHEN DRINKING FLUID AS THE CHANCES ARE YOU ARE GOING TO READ SOMETHING FUNNY THAT WILL MAKE YOU SPRAY THE LIQUID IN YOUR MOUTH OUT WITH LAUGHTER LOL ..... (types as still choking) ... lol


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## Abby (Oct 23, 2009)

WelshTan said:


> NEVER READ AB WHEN DRINKING FLUID AS THE CHANCES ARE YOU ARE GOING TO READ SOMETHING FUNNY THAT WILL MAKE YOU SPRAY THE LIQUID IN YOUR MOUTH OUT WITH LAUGHTER LOL ..... (types as still choking) ... lol


LOL yes, this is true, I've had to wipe coffee from my laptop a few times already


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## Exo (Oct 23, 2009)

The fatter a T is before a molt, the bigger it's legspan will be after the molt.


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## ghordy (Oct 23, 2009)

seanbond said:


> if your t is in premolt, you can increase the humidity to induce a molt.


Very good. I took your lead on this one. I got some of that Exo-terra Forest Moss (the stuff that comes in a brick) and I put a nice damp clump of it in the corner of my B. smithi's enclosure. She's been in pre-molt nearly two weeks now.


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## seanbond (Oct 23, 2009)

ghordy said:


> Very good. I took your lead on this one. I got some of that Exo-terra Forest Moss (the stuff that comes in a brick) and I put a nice damp clump of it in the corner of my B. smithi's enclosure. She's been in pre-molt nearly two weeks now.


let us know when she pops out.


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## curiousme (Oct 23, 2009)

seanbond said:


> if your t is in premolt, you can increase the humidity to induce a molt.


i have never heard of this one..........raising humidity while molting i have heard, but not to induce it.


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## sjl197 (Oct 23, 2009)

Yrah, also not convinced by changing humidity can induce a moult.


anyway, my advice is when you have tons or hatchlings, or babies of a tiny size - but no supplier of micro crickets, then get one big cricket and cut it up, and feed several babies at ones. It works for mommy spiders feeding young so why not us.


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## ghordy (Oct 24, 2009)

curiousme said:


> i have never heard of this one..........raising humidity while molting i have heard, but not to induce it.


Although it does make perfect sense to increase the humidity in the days leading up to a imminent molt, as well as during.


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## ghordy (Oct 24, 2009)

seanbond said:


> let us know when she pops out.


Whoa, I don't know if it's coincidence or not, but about 10 hours after I put the damp clump of forest moss in the enclosure, therefore raising the humidity... she molted! There might be something to your suggestion. I'll post pics of her new suit soon.

Interestingly there's another thread just started on the weather's effect on T behavior.


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## Bill S (Oct 24, 2009)

When transferring tarantulas I sometimes put the KK in a ten gallon aquarium before trying to catch the spider.  There's usually not enough room in a KK to maneuver and cup the spider, so they often bail out of the KK before I can catch them.  The 10-gallon serves as a safe back-up to keep the spider from sprinting across the room.  Once the spider is in the 10-gallon, I remove the KK.  This gives me unobstructed room to maneuver, and cupping the spider is easy.

A second trick that works with SOME tarantulas is to place the KK in a large teflon pan before opening it.  Some spiders have a very difficult time climbing the teflon sides.  (Warning: Note that this works only for SOME of them.  A recent event with a _Holothele_ showed that some spiders have no difficulty launching over the sides of a teflon pan.)

My wife uses a pan of water when photographing spiders and scorpions.  She puts a rock in the middle of the pan and places the animal on that rock.  Sometimes the animal can zip across the water (wolf spiders can) or dive into the water (some scorpions do this), but most of the time the photo subject remains on the rock and can be photographed more easily without fear of escape.


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## x Mr Awesome x (Oct 24, 2009)

I love this thread. Let's see... If you think you may have been haired, you probably have. My boehmei got me pretty good and I had very itchy hands for a couple of weeks. Take all the precautions after a potential encounter with this. Calamine lotion, duct tape, and do it fast. Seen people with scars on their arms? Yeah...
-ben


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## AllieCat (Oct 24, 2009)

Just because you think that your sling (or 3 of your slings) are too big to fit out vent holes..........well.........you might want to think again...... 

It only took the third time for me to finally learn this.  If perhaps this thread was posted sooner.........


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## jayefbe (Oct 24, 2009)

I can't claim authorship of this since I noticed it in other people's photos before doing it myself; however, it has been extremely helpful.

I take a 1 inch hole saw, drill a hole through the top of a container-store cube. Cut the top off of a water bottle, and hot glue it over the hole.  Now, I can just unscrew the bottle cap rather than having to pull off the entire top every time.  It gives me just enough room to feed, water, and clean (using long tweezers) my incredibly unpredictable OBT sling's enclosure without worrying about it making a mad dash for it.  If you have a bunch of terrestrial T's, it's probably not worth it.  Those things will just sit one place all day long, but my OBT will make a mad dash if you just look at him funny.


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## Steve Calceatum (Oct 24, 2009)

ghordy said:


> Very good. I took your lead on this one. I got some of that Exo-terra Forest Moss (the stuff that comes in a brick) and I put a nice damp clump of it in the corner of my B. smithi's enclosure. She's been in pre-molt nearly two weeks now.


I've been mixing that Forest Moss in with my coco-fiber to hold in humidity. It works well (very well, actually), but the big thing I've noticed with this mixture is that it _seems_ to have *mold-resistant* properties. I brought this up in a thread last week, and a couple other people noted this observation as well.

None of my enclosures with this mixture have had a mold-problem. A few days ago, I noticed an old cricket bolus in my Avic avic enclosure that she had hidden away...and probably for some time. Even though the bolus was molded over, none of the surrounding area was effected. I've been pretty OCD about checking in on that enclosure because mold has been a recurring problem for me, and there are no signs of any fungal infestation.

I really hope I've stumbled onto a solution to help combat mold. At the very least, combining your coco-fiber with 25% Forest Moss retains moisture fairly well, and looks better than mixing in vermiculite.


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## Ariel (Oct 24, 2009)

does it work with peat moss? for cost reasons I use peatmoss instead of coco fibre, but I do have a reaccuring mold problem in a few enclosures, so I wonder if mixing the forest moss with peat moss will work as well as mixing it with coco fibre.


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## ghordy (Oct 24, 2009)

One of the known qualities of peat moss is that it's naturally resistant to mold because of its acidic properties. Might be true of mosses in general.


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## Ariel (Oct 24, 2009)

ghordy said:


> One of the known qualities of peat moss is that it's naturally resistant to mold because of its acidic properties.


then why do I keep getting mold?


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## Steve Calceatum (Oct 24, 2009)

I think I will try to induce mold into a few small setups (ie: old jars or deli cups) without any inhabitants, and post the results in a couple of months. Kind of like that experement Morgan Spurlock did in the special features of "Supersize Me."


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## Ariel (Oct 24, 2009)

xsyorra said:


> I think I will try to induce mold into a few small setups (ie: old jars or deli cups) without any inhabitants, and post the results in a couple of months. Kind of like that experement Morgan Spurlock did in the special features of "Supersize Me."


ooooo that'll be interesting!


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## x Mr Awesome x (Oct 25, 2009)

Always stay as calm as possible if you're handling your T or if one happens to get out. DON'T FREAK OUT!!! My OBT climbed up on my head the other night. I stayed super calm and there was totally no issue is a result. Just kept my hand by my forehead until he started to move off and then pulled him away from my face. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.


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## curiousme (Oct 25, 2009)

Ariel said:


> then why do I keep getting mold?


Peat moss is not entirely moss, but is instead is a forest floor mixture.  That is why you will find twigs and such in it.  Read the ingredients on your bag and i bet it is similar to ours.


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## BrynWilliams (Oct 25, 2009)

I would agree with this entirely, take everything super slow, even if the T isn't being super slow. Reacting badly or panicking just makes everything go crazy.



x Mr Awesome x said:


> Always stay as calm as possible if you're handling your T or if one happens to get out. DON'T FREAK OUT!!! My OBT climbed up on my head the other night. I stayed super calm and there was totally no issue is a result. Just kept my hand by my forehead until he started to move off and then pulled him away from my face. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.


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## campj (Oct 25, 2009)

Instead of fighting to balance humidity and ventilation in the _tank_, provide plenty ventilation and increase humidity in the _room_.


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## Ariel (Oct 25, 2009)

curiousme said:


> Peat moss is not entirely moss, but is instead is a forest floor mixture.  That is why you will find twigs and such in it.  Read the ingredients on your bag and i bet it is similar to ours.


well, I know that, I was going based off this:



ghordy said:


> One of the known qualities of peat moss is that it's naturally resistant to mold because of its acidic properties. Might be true of mosses in general.


I still get mold. So I was wondering if mixing the forest moss in with it might help.


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## Steve Calceatum (Oct 25, 2009)

Ariel said:


> I still get mold. So I was wondering if mixing the forest moss in with it might help.


Wouldn't hurt to try. Moss may be mold-_resistant,_ but not mold-_proof._ If you took a good-sized clump of damp Forest moss, put it in a plastic grocerey bag & twisted it off (to hold in the humidity), and left it for 2 to 4 months, it would definately develop fungal problems as it was breaking down.

Now, if you took that same clump of Forest Moss, broke it up, mixed it in with your substrate, and placed it in a well-ventilated enclosure, you will have much different results now that the variables are changed.

Check out this article on the growing conditions of mold. Even though it's Wikipedia, it is still good information to know if we are to combat this problem.


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## ghordy (Oct 25, 2009)

My understanding is because of its acidity, peat moss is _resistant_ to mold but it doesn't mean you will be mold free if you use it. The determining factors would be moisture content, temp and humidity in order for mold to grow. 

I don't believe mixing the Forest Moss product in with the peat moss would necessarily enhance it or kill any existing mold. 

I use peat moss exclusively and have yet to experience any mold.

Check the bag to make sure it's 100% Canadian Sphagnum peat moss.


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## scottyk (Oct 25, 2009)

I've used a lot of both peat moss, and the coco bricks over the years and noticed zero difference between the two with regards to mold or fungus resistance.

The only remedy is keeping the enclosure clean, keeping out decorations that attract mold, and getting the humidity/ventilation balance under control.

My experience has been that many new keepers needlessly fear giving their enclosures enough ventilation. As long as you stay on schedule with misting slings and keep water dishes topped off, you can give them plenty of air and will almost never see mold.


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## jayefbe (Oct 25, 2009)

I agree. I think the biggest problem is probably too little ventilation.


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## Bill S (Oct 26, 2009)

Rather than turning this into a discussion of mosses - could we get back on topic?  This has been a great thread.


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## x Mr Awesome x (Oct 26, 2009)

Finding real bark and things in nature is a lot more accessible than you probably think, looks infinitely better than the stuff from the pet store and is free compared to the overpriced ridiculousness in the shops. $40 for a friggin' plastic hide? Are you kidding me? That's more than most tarantulas!!! Seriously. I found a bunch of fire wood at my folk's place and the bark peeled right off. I took some huge semi halves home and baked them at 300 degrees for fifteen minutes. I even got creative and used several smaller portions to make an awesome hide for my geniculata using my glue gun. RobC has some tutorials on his youtube channel going over specifically how he builds his arboreal hides and real bark backdrops for his vertically aligned enclosures. Here's his link:
http://www.youtube.com/user/tarantulaguy1976

-ben

PS: sticky???


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## FireGuyX (Oct 26, 2009)

Ariel said:


> Even the most docile and calm T can flip.
> 
> I have 3" poss. female _B. vagans_ who is extraordinarily calm and sweet but she unfortunately has a habit of knocking over her water dish. So one day I was filling up her water dish and she shot across the enclosure threw up an impressive threat display and smacked the water dish.
> 
> Heres my pretty girl:


I have a male B.Vagans, it's as docile as a pet dog.  I wonder if the females are usually more aggressive.


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## x Mr Awesome x (Oct 27, 2009)

*I'm  not ready to let this thread die!!!*

Come on folks!!! Get some of your unique advice in here! I'm tired of reading the same pointers over and over and over again. Share something different to benefit us all!
-ben


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## yltanisaac (Oct 27, 2009)

I use mealworms to feed my slings but some slings are very picky

SO when feeding picky eater slings in general (arboreal or terrestrial), I will squish the head then squeeze out some of its juice. Then I will stick the whole worm on the side of the container,

1. Attracts the T - Makes a huge target when it wiggles
2. Mold-Free - doesn't dirty the substrate with the mealworm juice which will otherwise induce mold growth, 
3. Makes cleaning easier
4. Healthy fast-growing slings


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## matthias (Oct 28, 2009)

seanbond said:


> if your t is in premolt, you can increase the humidity to induce a molt.


Not true for drier species. I have found that some won't molt if there is a lot of moisture.


My advice is the less you "mess" with your T the happier you both will be.

Don't Panic. 

Just about any plastic container is useful in T husbandry.

There is no such thing as over packing for shipping.


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## jallen (Oct 28, 2009)

A couple of things I have learned the hard way.

1. The only Tarantula that wont bite is a dead one.
2. Its never a good idea to take your eye off of an open cage/container.
3. Vials are great for slings they don't need that much room and its always nice to not have to worry if they are still in there.
4. Get a camera with a large LCD screen so you can keep watch on what your taking a picture of and still see what your pic is going to look like. If you have ever gotten into taking close up shots on Tarantulas then I'm sure you know what I mean. Its an easy way to get tagged. If your not taking macro shots then use zoom and keep your distance it keeps the flash from being too bright and I'm sure causes a lot less stress to your T


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## Helix (Oct 28, 2009)

Make sure you closed all the cages after feeding.


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## Bill S (Oct 28, 2009)

Helix said:


> Make sure you closed all the cages after feeding.


And then go back and check them again.


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## Ariel (Oct 28, 2009)

Bill S said:


> And then go back and check them again.


+1 

Everytime I feed, I'll close all the lids, walk out and stop and think "did I close all the cages" then go back and check. So far i've never left one open, but better safe then sorry!


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## Chaika (Oct 28, 2009)

I've not kept T's for very long but so far I've come across at least three things that I found very useful to learn:

1. If you're having trouble with mould, add a few (clean) woodlice to the enclosure and your troubles will be over. They actually eat the mould and leftovers, and I have tried this as a solution several times now. They also make a good snack for your T 

2. Always think about how you will maintain the enclosure (remove leftovers/change water) when setting it up. A particular arrangement may look nice but could be a killer to clean once the spider has webbed. This is particularly true of tall, top opening, arboreal enclosures and fast defensive tarantulas...:evil: 

3. Learn to take things easy and leave your T's be. Learn to ignore small numbers of mites/springtails. The happiest spider will probably be the one where you're not constantly changing and re-arraging stuff in its enclosure


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## yltanisaac (Nov 5, 2009)

It's been a long time.. no more?


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## SandyMuffinCakes94 (Nov 5, 2009)

Crickets smell really bad.


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## Bill S (Nov 5, 2009)

nrokin said:


> Crickets smell really bad.


For a long time I wondered why people thought this.  The tank I had set up for crickets didn't smell GOOD, but not especially bad either.  Then at one point I cleaned out the tank and started over again - and after that they really smelled bad.  The difference between the two set-ups?  I got rid of the dermestids that had been living in the cricket cage.  Some people here really objected to the dermestids that sooner or later show up in cricket cages, and routinely remove them.  But as long as they lived in my cricket cage they scavenged all the dead crickets and kept the smell down.  

Although we have some native species of dermestids, I think it's too late in the year to be able to find any.  We've already had a couple freezing nights.  So I'm hoping that at some point a few dermestids get mixed in with the crickets I buy.


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## SandyMuffinCakes94 (Nov 5, 2009)

Bill S said:


> For a long time I wondered why people thought this.  The tank I had set up for crickets didn't smell GOOD, but not especially bad either.  Then at one point I cleaned out the tank and started over again - and after that they really smelled bad.  The difference between the two set-ups?  I got rid of the dermestids that had been living in the cricket cage.  Some people here really objected to the dermestids that sooner or later show up in cricket cages, and routinely remove them.  But as long as they lived in my cricket cage they scavenged all the dead crickets and kept the smell down.
> 
> Although we have some native species of dermestids, I think it's too late in the year to be able to find any.  We've already had a couple freezing nights.  So I'm hoping that at some point a few dermestids get mixed in with the crickets I buy.


Oh what! i didnt know something else comes riding with them.  Im gonna look them up now, thanks for that information i had no idear.


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## seanbond (Nov 5, 2009)

curiousme said:


> i have never heard of this one..........raising humidity while molting i have heard, but not to induce it.


try it!!! before you knock it!



sjl197 said:


> Yrah, also not convinced by changing humidity can induce a moult.
> 
> ummm, ditto!
> 
> anyway, my advice is when you have tons or hatchlings, or babies of a tiny size - but no supplier of micro crickets, then get one big cricket and cut it up, and feed several babies at ones. It works for mommy spiders feeding young so why not us.


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## BCscorp (Nov 5, 2009)

seanbond said:


> try it!!! before you knock it!


Agreed, plus its not like you get home and say "I want you to moult, heres some moisture" and they moult. I recognize the signs of premoult, a few occasions Ive misted and the next day theres a freshly moulted T.
Coincidence? Maybe, but Im getting good at making this particular coincidence happen. lol


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## ZergFront (Nov 5, 2009)

- Superworms and wooden tables/chairs do not mix and don't do well in the
fridge.

 - waxworms are a PITA to keep alive! Moreso than crickets in my opinion. If you lost some crickets, check the bathrooms first.

 - Apparently female crickets are already pregnant before their adult molt. :? 

 - a webbed-up hide means "DO NOT DISTURB!!"

 - If it's started being more clumsy with climbing, doesn't always mean it's going to die. May have a molt on the way.

 - funnel weavers like getting under a girl's clothes.  

 - DO NOT hug it and squeeze it, but if you'd like, call it George.

 - You can't afford to have your feelings hurt because your T wants you to go away. If you want affection from a pet, get a dog.

 - Jeruselum crickets and feeder crickets cannot be friends.

 - Dermestid beetles really "dig in" to primate biscuits. Crickets love them too.

  Okay, maybe that wasn't ONE bit of advice but pick one or a few. LOL!


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## x Mr Awesome x (Nov 19, 2009)

*Here's a new one I stumbled on to today. Use a medical syringe to moisten sub through holes in small hobby box setups. This also works awesome just for lightly providing water to the web of slings! It doesn't disturb yet they notice enough to almost immediately start drinking! Worked on two T's in a row tonight. It must feel like natural precipitation. Anyway. Try it and let us know if it worked for you!


-ben*


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## lucarelli78 (Nov 29, 2014)

Just curious, but why would you want only males?


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## cold blood (Nov 29, 2014)

lucarelli78 said:


> Just curious, but why would you want only males?


5 year old thread, I doubt you'll get any response.


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## lucarelli78 (Nov 29, 2014)

cold blood said:


> 5 year old thread, I doubt you'll get any response.


Thanks, I realized the date after I had already replied.

Reactions: Like 1


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## cold blood (Nov 29, 2014)

Np, just thought I'd throw it out there in case you didn't notice.   

I actually like it when old threads get re-vived, there's a lot of good info from the near past for sure.


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## lucarelli78 (Nov 29, 2014)

cold blood said:


> Np, just thought I'd throw it out there in case you didn't notice.
> 
> I actually like it when old threads get re-vived, there's a lot of good info from the near past for sure.


Glad I could help.


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## hairyspideyfan (Nov 30, 2014)

My eyesight is fine, and I don't really need to wear eye glasses yet, but I have a cheap pair of low-strength reading glasses I got from a discount store that I wear around my T's when I'm doing cage maintainence. 

Firstly, everything is just slightly magnified and it makes it a lot easier to spot any issues or look for food left-overs, and secondly wearing them goes a long way to protect my eyes if any of my T's are having a paddy and want to flick hairs


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## matthias (Dec 2, 2014)

lucarelli78 said:


> Just curious, but why would you want only males?


As a collection grows you get more and more mature females and start thinking about breeding. 
Females live for years males (usually) only one breeding season. So if you want to breed more you need to squire more males.

It is generally as sign your collection has matured when you stop looking for MF and are always looking for MM.


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## Hanska (Dec 2, 2014)

matthias said:


> As a collection grows you get more and more mature females and start thinking about breeding.
> Females live for years males (usually) only one breeding season. So if you want to breed more you need to squire more males.
> 
> It is generally as sign your collection has matured when you stop looking for MF and are always looking for MM.


And some people just don't what to commit to a pet for the next 20-30 years.


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## lucarelli78 (Dec 2, 2014)

matthias said:


> As a collection grows you get more and more mature females and start thinking about breeding.
> Females live for years males (usually) only one breeding season. So if you want to breed more you need to squire more males.
> 
> It is generally as sign your collection has matured when you stop looking for MF and are always looking for MM.


Cool, thanks for the explanation.


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