# Blatta lateralis roach colony



## biomarine2000 (Jan 21, 2009)

I just acquired 50 Blatta lateralis roaches.  I was curious to find out how you guys were keeping them.  I have some idea but I'd like to go to the proven methods.  What should I keep them in?  What kind of lid should I use?  Any help or pictures would help.  Thanks


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## Travis K (Jan 21, 2009)

You'll want to get some bug stop.  Personally I don't like these as much as lobsters or dubias.  They smell and I have found that they are just as finicky of eaters as Hisser's are.  Lobsters and Dubia will just about eat anything and with those two species you cover the smallest slings to the Largest T. blondi, as well as terrestrial and arboreal.  Turks, IMO, are just yucky.  The one thing they have going for them is they are very hyper and run around more, but this is a draw back as they can be difficult to capture if you need them or they get away from you while you are trying to feed them off.  I have had them run up my arm and around my body to end up on the counter and bam, they are gone.  They work, but they aren't as good as lobsters.


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## RoachGirlRen (Jan 21, 2009)

B. lateralis care sheet, here at AB

The basic egg-crate-in-a-storage-bin route is perfectly acceptable for raising these guys. They do not climb smooth surfaces but I'd suggest a vaseline barrier anyways just to be on the safe side. Males can fly a bit but aren't inclined to; they run first as a response to threats and really only take wing if they fall or are thrown. Desite this many people advise having a (well ventillated) lid on the tank just in case. 
Because this species lays egg cases, you may want to provide some kind of substrate or humidity source to prevent the egg cases from dessicating. I'm fortunate enough to have a very humid room so even those laid in the egg crate do not dry out, but a shallow layer of substrate covering the bottom of the bin or even a large shallow dish of substrate on one end of the tank will do. Several folks in the topic I linked had luck even in fairly dry conditions so long as dietary moisture needs were met. Similarly, preferred breeding temps are above 78-80 degrees but myself and others have observed plenty of breeding at lower temps (mid 70's). 
They'll eat just about anything but are prone to cannibalism without a good protien source, so definitely include dog/cat/fish food or meat in the diet. Mine seem to have an affinity for meats and fruits, but they'll chow down farinah and oatmeal like any other roach as well.
Also remember that these guys are FAST and in some states allegedly have infestation potential - it may be a good idea to give their heads a little crunch before feeding them out, particularly if you do not tong feed or keep any of your T's in enclosures that a roach could climb out of.

Personally I prefer these guys to lobsters since they do not climb glass, are extremely prolific, have great sized nymphs for slings and great sized adults for T's/Scorps, and I find them _less_ smelly than my lobster colony. Haven't had issues with food acceptance. I also like the nice soft exoskeletons, but then again I am also keeping amphibians. Preference from keeper to keeper I guess; every time I see a feeder species suggested, I see a counter suggestion. Ah, inverts; never the same from person to person eh?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Moltar (Jan 21, 2009)

I like my lateralis just fine in spite of their smelliness and escape prone speediness. I keep mine as dry as I possibly can and generally at or below 70 degrees just to slow down their breeding rate yet they still breed fairly prolifically. There has never been any issue whatsoever with acceptance, bar none. All of my t's love them.

The biggest hassle is their speed. I've had to develop some "safety first" procedures with feeding that I definitely don't feel necessary for B dubias. I have secondary temporary feeding bins with lids because basically if you drop one it's gone, they are that quick. They do stink a little too.


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## Travis K (Jan 21, 2009)

yeah I just dump a few in an empty smooth container I can fit my hand in and then toss or shake in what I need.


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## scottyk (Jan 21, 2009)

Stress free lat feeding ala' Scott:

Start with a glass beaker or wide mouth jar. It's important to use glass as the nymphs can climb plastic.

Working over the thier tub, pull out a flat and just knock some lats right into jar by tapping a flat on the jar rim.

Viola! You now have a jar of mixed lats that are easy to handle and take over to your tarantulas. Use a pair of 12" forceps to take them out and feed. Thier speed is no longer an issue when they are crowded into a 3 or 4" diameter glass bottom.

When you are finished, take the leftovers and dump them right back into the tub...

Enjoy! 
Scott

Reactions: Agree 1


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## gvfarns (Jan 21, 2009)

scottyk said:


> Stress free lat feeding ala' Scott:
> 
> Start with a glass beaker or wide mouth jar. It's important to use glass as the nymphs can climb plastic.
> 
> ...


That's a really good method.  I'm starting up again with lateralis and I'm going to try this.


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## gvfarns (Jan 21, 2009)

I prefer lateralis to lobsters and dubia.  The former climb to the top of the tarantula enclosure and can remain there for a long time (tho this might be good for arboreals) and I'm always afraid they will escape from the T enclosure.  Dubia are great little roaches but insufficiently active to attract the attention of finickey T's and I don't like trying to damage them to get them to move around.  B bolivensis is better if you want a big roach in my opinion...much more active it seems to me (though the nymphs are very given to burrowing).

Anyway lateralis grow fast and eat a lot in my experience. I kept my former colony on no substrate, along with water crystals, oatmeal, and catfood.  And some roach chow too, actually.  They definitely got stinky but that was because of my extreme neglect (I got married and moved out, leaving them for several months with no care to speak of and their dead bodies built up in the frass).  They don't seem to live real long when compared with other roaches.

This time around I'm going to put them on substrate.  It will make keeping humidity up easier and I'm hoping it will absorb some of the smell.  Later I'm going to throw in some composting earthworms to see if I can reduce my cleanup duties.  The other plus of substrate is the humidity apparently helps with the egg cases hatching.

They are definitely fast little dudes, but T's love them because they are super active.  They don't climb or dig, which is great.  The downside is that they are really small.  They look like they are the size of a cricket but they weigh much less.  They can wriggle out of your hands much better than a cricket can so be careful if you use your hands to hold them.


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## biomarine2000 (Jan 21, 2009)

Thanks for all the responses guys.  All the info really helps.  If I was to use a substrate, what should I go with?  What about maintenance?  Cleaning out the dead and empty exo skeletons?


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## Nerri1029 (Jan 21, 2009)

Cool info ..

I'm going to get some SOON


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## Moltar (Jan 21, 2009)

By the way guys, I have many, many extra B lateralis (B dubia too) so if you want to buy some at a very reasonable price send me a PM... You'll have plenty of probably gravid adults in the order along with a range of nymphs.


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## biomarine2000 (Jan 21, 2009)

RoachGirlRen said:


> B. lateralis care sheet, here at AB
> 
> The basic egg-crate-in-a-storage-bin route is perfectly acceptable for raising these guys. They do not climb smooth surfaces but I'd suggest a vaseline barrier anyways just to be on the safe side. Males can fly a bit but aren't inclined to; they run first as a response to threats and really only take wing if they fall or are thrown. Desite this many people advise having a (well ventillated) lid on the tank just in case.
> Because this species lays egg cases, you may want to provide some kind of substrate or humidity source to prevent the egg cases from dessicating. I'm fortunate enough to have a very humid room so even those laid in the egg crate do not dry out, but a shallow layer of substrate covering the bottom of the bin or even a large shallow dish of substrate on one end of the tank will do. Several folks in the topic I linked had luck even in fairly dry conditions so long as dietary moisture needs were met. Similarly, preferred breeding temps are above 78-80 degrees but myself and others have observed plenty of breeding at lower temps (mid 70's).
> ...


I just got done reading this thread and it is filled with information that was very useful.  I live in Texas so the possiblity of infestation if some get out is pretty high.  I want to make sure the little buggers dont get out.  It sounds to me like if you live in a few areas, Texas being one of them, they will pretty much do the work for you.  All you need to do is feed them.


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## biomarine2000 (Feb 5, 2009)

*Need help roaches climing vasoline barrier*

I got a colony set up in a 30 gallon tank.  The silicon is coated with vasoline to prevent climbing but it doesn't seem to be working.  Need help ASAP.


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## scottyk (Feb 5, 2009)

The only solution I know of is to switch to a plastic tub. Some species can climb those siliconed corners even with vaseline.

You may also try the Bug Stop boundary product. It works great on my tubs, but I'm not sure about aquarium seals.....


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## gvfarns (Feb 5, 2009)

I bet you could scrape out the silicone with a razor blade without your tank coming apart. They put a ton on there because it's meant to hold water.  

Or use a plastic tub from walmart.  Cut a big hole in the lid.  hot glue window screening over it, and you are good to go.

I love lateralis. They smell dusty and they are ugly and scary, but the T's love them.


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## burmish101 (Feb 5, 2009)

Also for feeding lats off to spiders in little vials I prefer to knock babies off the eggcrate into a glass bowl. Then I scoop up however many I need in a straw I cut to about 1 1/2-2in. in length with my thumb over the other end and turn it rightside up so it cant climb out. Then dump them in, its allot quicker to do than explain lol but its really easy, never have to chase them around. Also it helps if you angle the bowl to the side so theyre all stuck in the same spot makes for some easier scooping.


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## gvfarns (Feb 5, 2009)

Yeah I thought this might happen, btw.  Vaseline seems to be a great barrier for lobsters but many other types of roach don't seem fazed by it. 

By the way, I can't tell exactly by the picture, but I think you used way too much vaseline.  Think more like the amount you'd put on your lips.  The idea with vaseline is to render their static pads useless.  But if it's thick enough that they can get their hooks in it (and turks are really light so they don't need much) then  they will climb right up it.

Also if this was a lobster roach tank and I was advising you I'd say the swath at the top needs to be wider (and, as I mentioned) less thick.


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## gvfarns (Feb 5, 2009)

I have a couple of other suggestions as well for your setup.  It looks like you are using plastic cups of some kind as food and water dishes.  They can't climb those very well.   I use disposable styrofoam cups.  They can climb it really well, it's cheap, easy to cut to the right size, and it holds water.

It also looks like your egg crates are suspended off the floor.  Are you sure they can get up on them easily?  Probably they can but you might check it out anyway.


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## gvfarns (Feb 5, 2009)

Another suggestion regarding the food and water.  If you use water instead of water crystals (I prefer water) be sure to have the top of the water cups a little ways above the substrate.  If any substrate falls in it will wick the water out annoyingly quickly.


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## biomarine2000 (Feb 5, 2009)

Thanks for the quick responses.  I think its the thickness of the vasoline.  I piled it in there because I dont want them getting out.  I live in Texas and dont want an infestation.    I will thin out the vasoline.  As far as them getting onto the egg crates, I have one laying on the substrate that leads up to the ones above the substrate.  They are all in there now.  The little dishes im not crazy about.  I didn't even think they wouldn't be able to get out. duh :wall:.  I'll correct my mistakes.  Trial and error always does the trick.  Thanks everyone.


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## Endagr8 (Feb 6, 2009)

ask people in the insect thread. lol.  ;P  ;P  ;P  ;P


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## Kamikaze (Feb 9, 2009)

I put my B. lateralis colony inside a big plastic container. I also drilled some holes on the top for ventilation.
I use eggcrates (around 8 eggcrates) inside the plastic container to house them.
I feed them chicken feeds and vegetable material.
My slings love the newly hatched roaches. my subadults cant resist them.
Good luck in your setup!


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## jmiller (Feb 9, 2009)

biomarine2000 said:


> I got a colony set up in a 30 gallon tank.  The silicon is coated with vasoline to prevent climbing but it doesn't seem to be working.  Need help ASAP.



You can also try clear packing tape.  They can not climb that very well.  You can also use the tape and coat it with Vaseline.  It will cover up the silicon which as  you know they can climb with ease.


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## biomarine2000 (Feb 10, 2009)

Heres a little update on the colony.  As you guys know I set it up only a few days ago.  They seemed curious to check everything out but have now settled in.  They are not even attempting to get out.  I just wanted to see how the T's react to a different type of food from crickets.  They NAILED them like they were candy.  Plus to my suprise they were very easy to catch.  I figured since they are as fast as grease lightening that they would be hard but they just sit there until I catch them with the tongs.  I was thinking about switching to dubia but I think I will stick with what I've got.  Also I may switch from a 30 gallon and use a tub with some packing tape around the top.  Thanks to everyone that posted here.  The information is so much appreciated.


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## burmish101 (Feb 10, 2009)

My slings attack them like a starving fat man on a cupcake. Make sure to coat it very thin or else the hatchling nymphs can easily crawl out.


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## EightLeggedFrea (Feb 10, 2009)

I've kept B. lats for quite a while now and apart from me dropping them there have been no escapes. You don't need any bug stop or anything like that. They can't climb, unlike lobsters. I even keep my colony in a 10-gallon without a lid. They are fast, but a simple head crushing slows them down enough for even my leopard gecko to snag them.

As for care, I keep mine in a bare enclosure with nothing but egg crates. They reproduce like mad. They may be my favorite feeder roaches, and I've got dubias and discoids.


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## deadly_elegance (Feb 10, 2009)

here's how I keep my latts







i keep them in a large plastic tub with cylinder cartons I feed them crushed dog foods,chicken pellets, fish food, fresh fruits and vegetables I'm lucky I'm here in the philippines the temp here rarely drops 85 so they're breeding fast. . . 

I've managed to create a simple automatic feeder made from plastic bottles
I melted couple of holes at the bottom using soldering iron and let gravity do the thing. . . 













this is how I water them. . . 
I am using a commercial bird feeder with paper towels in the mouth so the nymphs won't drown. . . 



















I am using lats as my staple food for my smaller tarantulas and scorpion without any problems. .  I only encounter problems with leopard geckos since this roach are so fast. . 

my solution is to pull the antennae of the roach, this way they be disoriented and can be easily catch by my geckos


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## biomarine2000 (Feb 11, 2009)

*Converting to the tub.*

Ok guys I have taken your advice and went and got a plastic tub.  The question I have about the tubs is, How do I make it escape proof?  What I mean by that is keeping them from crawling out the top.  I know to cut holes in the side for ventilation and hot glueing mesh to the sides.  I was told to put clear tape at the top.  Is the only thing I need to do to insure that they dont get out?

Ps:  The fish tank is making me nervous of an escape.


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## biomarine2000 (Feb 11, 2009)

One more thing I am concerned about is the possibility of some getting out and infesting my house.  I REALLY dont want this to happen.  I live in Texas and have heard that they can infest here.  Has anyone else heard, or experienced this?  Should I switch to dobai?


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## deadly_elegance (Feb 11, 2009)

biomarine2000 said:


> Ok guys I have taken your advice and went and got a plastic tub.  The question I have about the tubs is, How do I make it escape proof?  What I mean by that is keeping them from crawling out the top.  I know to cut holes in the side for ventilation and hot glueing mesh to the sides.  I was told to put clear tape at the top.  Is the only thing I need to do to insure that they dont get out?
> 
> Ps:  The fish tank is making me nervous of an escape.


when you use plastic tub there will be no escapees these roaches cannot climb smooth surface just make sure tha tub is tall enough. . . i cu holes on top and not on the sides and glued screen on the holes for ventilation. . .


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## Matt K (Feb 11, 2009)

I live near DFW Texas (Denton area), and have dozens of roach species.  
* I am not concerned at all about any of them infesting my house.  The only two species that seem to be able to live for any length of time away from thier colony are lobster roaches and surinames, and even then under good circumstances.
* Regarding vaseline:  I use it in all my plastic tubs and have never had an escapee.  Only roaches that ever get out are the ones I drop or otherwise let out accidently while cleaning a tub.
*If you are concerned about an escape, leave a sticky pest trap on the floor with a little pinch of fish food in the middle of it.  You may even be suprised at what bugs get caught tring to reach the food.....


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## biomarine2000 (Feb 11, 2009)

Matt K said:


> I live near DFW Texas (Denton area), and have dozens of roach species.
> * I am not concerned at all about any of them infesting my house.  The only two species that seem to be able to live for any length of time away from thier colony are lobster roaches and surinames, and even then under good circumstances.
> * Regarding vaseline:  I use it in all my plastic tubs and have never had an escapee.  Only roaches that ever get out are the ones I drop or otherwise let out accidently while cleaning a tub.
> *If you are concerned about an escape, leave a sticky pest trap on the floor with a little pinch of fish food in the middle of it.  You may even be suprised at what bugs get caught tring to reach the food.....



That is superb advice thank you.  I guess I'll be sticking with what I've got.  Thanks everybody.


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## biomarine2000 (Feb 13, 2009)

*Pesticides*

I have read that if you use apple crates that they could have pesticides on them from what has been sprayed on the apples.  Has anyone else heard this?  These are what I'm using in my roach colony.  Should I even attempt to feed any of the roaches to my t's or just kill them?  I dont want to risk my T's.  I have already ordered new roach flats and dubia roaches.  What do you guys think?


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## biomarine2000 (Feb 13, 2009)

*Apple crate pictures*

Here is a couple of pictures of the apple crates.  As I said above I already have some inside the roach colony.


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## sithlord (Oct 13, 2013)

I have my B lateralis in a tank with no substrate with egg crates. I've been feeding them tropical fish flakes, dog food mixed with oranges as a source of moisture. Temp about 78-80 degrees, I've had like this for several months now and they're thriving and breeding well.

---------- Post added 10-13-2013 at 04:32 PM ----------


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## EdwardTyndall (Oct 13, 2013)

i also want to know about apple crates i just got abunch of them and was going to change all my roach bins to them are they good or not

---------- Post added 10-13-2013 at 10:45 PM ----------

i also want to know about the apple crates i just got a bunch of them and was going to change all my roach bins are they good or bad ???


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## mmfh (Oct 20, 2013)

Lol go to Burger King and get two drinks and ask for a cardboard carrier. I use these with my roaches and they love them plus they are essentially free. I keep my enclosure dry and substrate free and haven't changed them out in a year with no problems


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## PlaidJaguar (Oct 20, 2013)

I put substrate in with my B. lats and it really helped cut down on the smell.  Now they just smell like wet dirt.  I did have to add a lot more ventilation though, as the soil holds humidity really well and it's inclined to mold if I'm not careful.

My colony came with some carpet beetles that do all my cleanup for me as well.  The beetles LOVE the substrate and I haven't seen a scrap of dead matter since I switched.


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## DNADragons (Dec 31, 2013)

*Apple flats*

Your apple flats are safe. The apples are treated with a fungicide, which is a pesticide, but not an insecticide. People should be more concerned about using egg flats that could potentially harbor salmonella.


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