# Andrea's Tarantula Tips



## LuiziBee (Apr 20, 2015)

Occasionally, on Instagram, I will do a little write up here and there on very basic information on tarantulas to help at least a couple of people who don't really know anything or who never decided to do research or, for some reason, figured they didn't need to. A lot of it is my personal opinion, or things I believe are extremely basic, helpful, safety tips. I believe no one is an expert and no one has to listen to me, but little tips of advice just to help nudge people along or refresh their memory is always welcome. I also believe people should be allowed to experiment with setups, substrates, etc. at their leisure as they gain more understanding and knowledge. So, like I said, often my tips are for upmost for beginners until they gain more experience. I thought I'd share some of them with you and catch a few opinions. Please be nice to me. I'm not trying to force my opinions down others throats or give out free information to people who never did research. Rather, hopefully catch their attention and interest here and there so they'll want to do more digging on their own. Spark some inspiration, if you will, and save a couple of T's from potentially dangerous situations. Some may think it's pointless to do this, but I have helped several people so far and I think it's fun to do it. Most people seem very thankful. I hope you enjoy:




"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: NEVER USE MESH TOPS ON YOUR ENCLOSURES! For multiple reasons: 1.) Your tarantula can chew through it. Yes. Even though it's metal. They will bend it back & forth until it breaks. 2.) If it isn't clamped, they can push it open.  3.) If their legs get stuck in the mesh, they can loose a limb.  4.) Potentially fatal fall if you don't have an adequate amount of substrate or have dangerous decorations in the enclosure."



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: NEVER TRUST CARE SHEETS OR PET SHOPS WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TARANTULA! They will often lead you astray. Most care sheets you find on google or even receive in the pet shop can have devastating information when it comes to the health and safety of your tarantula. Even most pet shops, local and chain, will seem confident on how to care for your T. Or even try and force you to buy things that are not necessary and can be dangerous, such as heat lamps, mats, gel water crystals, etc. DO NOT TRUST THEM! This goes back to my tip a few weeks ago, "RESEARCH! RESEARCH! RESEARCH!!" Look at multiple sources that are CREDIBLE! Don't believe everything you hear. Listen to other people's experiences. Even some sites with care information may seem like they are knowledgeable or legitimate. Often times they are not. Read. Read. Read!! Ask for opinions and help from MULTIPLE people, even! Because you know what? Not a single one of us is an expert on tarantulas. "



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP:
RESEARCH! RESEARCH! RESEARCH! RESEARCH! Find credible resources. Read everything you can. Don't take every single thing you read to heart. Two good, easy places to start:
1.) The Tarantula Keepers Guide - by Stanley Schultz (get the most recent edition). Some of his information is a little extreme or I don't completely agree with for certain situations, but it's a wonderful book for every single person who keeps tarantulas. 
2.) Arachnoboards.com - Love it or hate it, this site has tons of priceless information floating around. Learn to lurk and use the search function and you'll quickly be filled with tarantula knowledge."





"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: Always provide fresh, clean water. Never offer a sponge, cotton, or gel water crystals. Well, unless you like lots of nasty, moldy bacteria and a dehydrated tarantula.  "




"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: if it's carapace can fit, it's body can fit. So watch how big you make air holes for slings in deli cups and vials. Also don't transfer into a kritter keeper too early. You'd be surprised what they can squeeze through. "



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: When using mealworms as prey, *smoosh their head first. That way they won't burrow, but will still wiggle around. If they burrow, there's a potential threat to your tarantula when it molts and later on you won't have to wonder why you have beetles running around your enclosure. Also, one time my MF Brachypelma vagans got chewed on her chelicerae by a mealworm WHILE she was eating it. It left damage. BE CAREFUL!!"



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIPS: NEVER feed wild caught prey!!!! Here's why :
1.) Pesticides 
2.) Parasites 
3.) Some insects have natural toxins inside them that are used as a defense mechanism that will poison your tarantula.
4.) You never REALLY know where that bug came from or where it has been."



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP:
Avicularia - Don't over think humidity. Pay attention to ventilation. Avics are NOT more delicate than other species. Where people go wrong is they aren't providing enough ventilation. VENTILATION IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT! Most of the time, people are unknowingly drowning their tarantula in stagnant, humid air. Lightly wet the substrate (I don't believe in misting), let dry out within a week or so, re wet. Provide water dish. Cross ventilation and plenty of air holes is key. There is no such thing as Sudden Avic Death Syndrome (SADS or w/e) Your tarantula drowned."



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP : **FOR TERRESTRIAL SPECIES** The top of the substrate to the top of the enclosure should not exceed the T's legspan (or 1.5 the legspan). THIS IS IMPORTANT as even a fall from a short distance WILL KILL your tarantula. Ruptured abdomens, unseen internal damage, falling on decorations in the enclosure, etc. Be careful if you handle your tarantula as well. Always hold it close to the ground. Do extensive enclosure maintenance on the ground. Don't risk your tarantulas life."



"*found photo of cricket on internet*
ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: When using crickets as prey, cut off the females #ovipositor. That is how she lays her eggs. Often times I see people panicked because suddenly their enclosure is overrun with tiny bugs. No need to fret! It could just be baby crickets! There is no need to clean or change out the enclosure. They will drown themselves in the water dish. Problem solved! To keep that from happening, snip off the females ovipositor; the long pokey bit coming out of her butt. It's how she lays her eggs. 
And as always, remove any and all uneaten prey within 24 hours. Crickets can pose a threat to your tarantula. Or you can smoosh their heads. But I prefer my crickets alive."



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: HAPLOPELMA - Always provide a MINIMUM of 7" of substrate for an adult. Always provide more if possible. This could explain why you have an extra defensive H. lividum or one that runs around its enclosure and threat poses all the time. It's stressed out due to wrong / not enough substrate. If it's settled in and comfortable, it should just run into its burrow. Also, when first housing your tarantula, provide a good starter burrow anywhere you'd like a couple of inches in width and depth. Your tarantula should take to it within a couple of days. How do you keep the humidity up for this species? I pour water straight into the substrate and let it completely dry out in the next week or so. Don't drown out your tarantula or make it too swampy, though. You'd like to see your pet hole more frequently? There are different methods you can use for DIY enclosures to help you view your tarantula. Search around and see what's right for you.  How do you know if it's molting? You generally don't. However, frequently, they will Web up their burrows to notify they'd like to be left alone. Don't try feeding again until it opens back up and/or you see its toesies sticking out. That should about cover it."



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP:
NEVER use wood chips, gravel, sand, or vermiculite as substrate. Here's why: Wood Chips - can harm or kill your tarantula. It is abrasive with sharp edges. Puncture wound possible if your tarantula falls. Your T can not burrow in it, etc. Cedar is also toxic to tarantulas. Sand - Sure there are desert dwelling tarantulas. That DOES NOT MEAN the sand you buy at the store is the same they live on in their natural habitat. It will (potentially) enter the joints of your tarantula. It is also abrasive. It does not hold a stable structure for burrowing. Gravel - Not stable, can't burrow, potentially fatal if tarantula climbs and falls. Vermiculite - Does not hold water, unstable, potentially entering venerable areas of your tarantula. I recommend the use of coco fibre, peat moss, and organic soil. Or a mixture of the three."

Side Note: Often when I say NEVER in the picture, it's to grab attention. I have been known to use vermiculite and sand in my enclosures. Substrates can be played with. But this is for the extremely basic, safety setup for novice keepers. 



"ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: HOLDING YOUR TARANTULA! There is a large debate in the community regarding whether or not you should hold your tarantula. I believe it is the up to each hobbyists own discretion whether or not they decide to hold their own T. However, here are a few things to keep in mind:
Every single tarantula has its own, individual personality. 
Every single tarantula is unpredictable. Just because it has always been chill and docile, doesn't mean today it won't decide to run off or bite you. Which means you always need to... 
hold your tarantula as close to the ground as possible. EVEN A FALL FROM A SHORT DISTANCE WILL KILL YOUR TARANTULA! 
when trying to pick up your tarantula, never FORCE it to do anything. Gently coax it. If it doesn't want to go, leave it and try again later. Don't poke and prod it. 
if you or your tarantula gets harmed, it is always 100% YOUR fault. No excuses. 
don't breathe on your tarantula or blow air at her. 
move slow and steady, but confidently. 
have a catch cup ready in case of escape
Please don't "pinch grab method" your tarantula unless it is completely necessary. More reason to drop it and stress it out. 
Make sure no one is going to accidentally surprise or scare you or your T. Be in a safe, quiet area. 
Turn off your phone. 
Don't be under the influence of drugs or alcohol. 
My personal feelings:
I have been keeping tarantulas for 7 years. I have not held a tarantula in at least five of those years (not on purpose, at least. Lol) I believe it stresses them out. Neither tarantula nor hobbyists benefit from handling. There is too much danger and room for error involved. I do not believe your tarantula "enjoys" being handled. They are delicate, beautiful creatures that deserve our respect and prefer to have their own, personal space. It is your decision to hold your pet or not, just remember, if you're going to take that risk, make sure you are willing to accept all possible consequences."

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## lalberts9310 (Apr 20, 2015)

Nice tips, personally at the tip of the mesh lid I would add what effect it has on formation of micro-climate as well  And maybe some tips on beginner species as well

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## DarthT (Apr 20, 2015)

Love the tips... the pics are awesome, and help draw the attention in! Very beneficial for beginners, especially with all the misinformation out there. I also like how you mentioned the fact that you have not held your tarantulas, except when necessary, and that it does nothing for them.


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## vespers (Apr 20, 2015)

LuiziBee said:


> Vermiculite - Does not hold water


Vermiculite _does_ hold water. Quite well actually. Though I don't use it as (or as a component of) a tarantula substrate personally.

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## LuiziBee (Apr 20, 2015)

vespers said:


> Vermiculite _does_ hold water. Quite well actually. Though I don't use it as (or as a component of) a tarantula substrate personally.


Oh. Oops. See? This is what ya'll are for. :biggrin:

---------- Post added 04-20-2015 at 02:17 PM ----------




lalberts9310 said:


> Nice tips, personally at the tip of the mesh lid I would add what effect it has on formation of micro-climate as well  And maybe some tips on beginner species as well


Thank you for your opinion. I will consider that for the next time I rewrite that one. I'm trying to kind of circulate them here & again so new followers or people who missed them can have a chance to catch it. 

---------- Post added 04-20-2015 at 02:19 PM ----------




DarthT said:


> Love the tips... the pics are awesome, and help draw the attention in! Very beneficial for beginners, especially with all the misinformation out there. I also like how you mentioned the fact that you have not held your tarantulas, except when necessary, and that it does nothing for them.


I try to give them as reasonable and multi-viewed an answer as possible, knowing other people will or will not agree with me. 
And glad you like the pictures! It's one of my favorite parts. Getting to super mess up and glam up some of my favorite tarantulas. Haha

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lalberts9310 said:


> Nice tips, personally at the tip of the mesh lid I would add what effect it has on formation of micro
> 
> I totally did make a beginner T one. It isn't that great, though and not so many people really agreed with me & at some point I had to reiterate that it's my own personal opinion. lol But here it is:
> 
> ...

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## lalberts9310 (Apr 20, 2015)

Have to agree on the pictures, I think they can draw a lot of attention, which is cool. It also gives the impression that owning a tarantula is fun

---------- Post added 04-20-2015 at 09:35 PM ----------

I agree with your beginner choices, except for the avic avic and maybe rosea. Since avics are sensitive to husbandry, well I guess if correct care information is passed on it won't be so difficult for newbs to care for them, there was a newcomer on here that actually did some good research for avic husbandry before they got one.. and for roseas since they have mood swings and may fast months on end for no reason which could be quite frustrating to a newb.. but all in all looks good IMO

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## LuiziBee (Apr 20, 2015)

lalberts9310 said:


> Have to agree on the pictures, I think they can draw a lot of attention, which is cool. It also gives the impression that owning a tarantula is fun
> 
> ---------- Post added 04-20-2015 at 09:35 PM ----------
> 
> I agree with your beginner choices, except for the avic avic and maybe rosea. Since avics are sensitive to husbandry, well I guess if correct care information is passed on it won't be so difficult for newbs to care for them, there was a newcomer on here that actually did some good research for avic husbandry before they got one.. and for roseas since they have mood swings and maay fast months on end for no reason which could be quite frustrating to a newb.. but all in all looks good IMO


Mostly picked avic avic because my first two tarantulas were Avics. And you can find them everywhere, cheaply. G. rosea, also because they are cheap and readily available. The others, because they're the most docile T's I own in my collection and I rarely hear bad things from them, if ever.

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## lalberts9310 (Apr 20, 2015)

LuiziBee said:


> Mostly picked avic avic because my first two tarantulas were Avics. And you can find them everywhere, cheaply. G. rosea, also because they are cheap and readily available. The others, because they're the most docile T's I own in my collection and I rarely hear bad things from them, if ever.


To each their own I guess, but the other recommendations are perfect for beginners


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## awiec (Apr 20, 2015)

LuiziBee said:


> Mostly picked avic avic because my first two tarantulas were Avics. And you can find them everywhere, cheaply. G. rosea, also because they are cheap and readily available. The others, because they're the most docile T's I own in my collection and I rarely hear bad things from them, if ever.


It depends on the person really. I got an avic as my first tarantula and I kept it like my orchids, still with me almost 2 years later. Your list is of relatively cheap and common species even if I don't like rosea. I have a spider who is probably the perfect starter tarantula but is very hard to find and is very threatened in the wild so something like a grammostola is a much better choice for availability.

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## cold blood (Apr 20, 2015)

Seems like to took a lot of time to help out others, I applaud you for that.   Good posts so far helping you further.   I think you did a pretty darn good job overall.

One thing I don't get, and I feel isn't even worth you mentioning, is the removal of the ovipositor on female crickets.   I just don't see the point of this as the danger is ridiculously low...probably a better chance of being hit by lightning twice on the way home than have an issue with an intact female cricket.   Plus, who wants to fondle their female crickets before feeding?  Not me

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## LuiziBee (Apr 20, 2015)

cold blood said:


> Seems like to took a lot of time to help out others, I applaud you for that.   Good posts so far helping you further.   I think you did a pretty darn good job overall.
> 
> One thing I don't get, and I feel isn't even worth you mentioning, is the removal of the ovipositor on female crickets.   I just don't see the point of this as the danger is ridiculously low...probably a better chance of being hit by lightning twice on the way home than have an issue with an intact female cricket.   Plus, who wants to fondle their female crickets before feeding?  Not me


I never remove the ovipositor, tbh. I mention it, because some people aren't aware this even happens. It's happened to me several times. But figured for the overly paranoid, it could be worth mentioning and giving a solution to. Or at least if it happens in the future, they'll know at least, what's going on. Very first time it happened to me, with my first tarantula, I absolutely panicked. Haha

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## lalberts9310 (Apr 20, 2015)

LuiziBee said:


> I never remove the ovipositor, tbh. I mention it, because some people aren't aware this even happens. It's happened to me several times. But figured for the overly paranoid, it could be worth mentioning and giving a solution to. Or at least if it happens in the future, they'll know at least, what's going on. Very first time it happened to me, with my first tarantula, I absolutely panicked. Haha


  I just remove baby crickets I find in the enclosures and throw them in the cricket tub, more food for my slings   I also panicked the first time it happened to me


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## cold blood (Apr 20, 2015)

LuiziBee said:


> I never remove the ovipositor, tbh. I mention it, because some people aren't aware this even happens. It's happened to me several times. But figured for the overly paranoid, it could be worth mentioning and giving a solution to. Or at least if it happens in the future, they'll know at least, what's going on. Very first time it happened to me, with my first tarantula, I absolutely panicked. Haha





lalberts9310 said:


> I just remove baby crickets I find in the enclosures and throw them in the cricket tub, more food for my slings   I also panicked the first time it happened to me


You unnecessary worriers :laugh:   I was it happen once, I did nothing, they all died out quickly and I basically forgot about them.

Mentioning it is good, because like you mentioned, a lot of newer keepers don't know a ton about the t, even fewer educate themselves on their prey items.  Being able to tell male from female is good to know...makes it easier to feed out the noisy ones first.

But while mentioning it is very good, mentioning it as a danger or a "never", really just makes some people more nervous about their feeders than they need to be.   Just my 2 cents anyway.

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## LuiziBee (Apr 20, 2015)

Oh yeah. And this one was a participation one I made using a picture old setups I had before I knew better (because we were all n00bs) Showed them the picture and asked to name five things wrong. A couple of hours later, I gave them my answer:



Okay. You're all entitled to your own opinions. However, I'm going by what I feel is the most current, safest, fool-proof beginner setup should look like for an adult terrestrial species. #5 is kind of a give or take. 
1.) All three enclosures have too much height and not enough substrate. (rule: 1.5 x the tarantulas legspan in space) 
2.) Enclosures "B" & "C" have mesh lids. The tarantula can chew it open, loose a limb, fall and die, or push it open without clamps. Mesh tops just shouldn't be used period. 
3.) Fresh, clean water needs to be provided at all times. 
4.) Enclosure "C" has way too much leg room. (rule: 3 x legspan) Tarantulas don't like a lot of space. It stresses them out. Plus, they don't really utilize it, anyway. If they are constantly exploring (MMs being an exception) there's probably other issues with the set up. 
5a.) Give or take. My opinion. Dangerous, hard, sharp decorations for the tarantula to get stuck in or fall on.
5b.) Give or take. Gel water crystals next to the enclosure. Potentially to be used on the tarantulas. Bacteria harboring and does nothing for the tarantula.

---------- Post added 04-20-2015 at 05:15 PM ----------




cold blood said:


> You unnecessary worriers [emoji23]   I was it happen once, I did nothing, they all died out quickly and I basically forgot about them.
> 
> Mentioning it is good, because like you mentioned, a lot of newer keepers don't know a ton about the t, even fewer educate themselves on their prey items.  Being able to tell male from female is good to know...makes it easier to feed out the noisy ones first.
> 
> But while mentioning it is very good, mentioning it as a danger or a "never", really just makes some people more nervous about their feeders than they need to be.   Just my 2 cents anyway.


That makes sense. Sometimes over thinking anything with Ts puts them at more risk. Over caring to death. Bahaha

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## Poec54 (Apr 21, 2015)

Good concept.  A few suggested changes:

- I'd mention both screen and mesh lids.
- I'd reword it to say:_ 'If it's carapace can fit thru a hole, so can the rest of the spider.'
- It's not just care sheets and pet stores that dispense poor advice, so do some tarantula books.  
_- I use superworms and don't 'smosh' their heads; I take them out within seconds (with forceps) if the spider doesn't grab them.  What about:_ 'Never let mealworms/superworms roam your spider's cage.'
_-_ 'Avicularia: Don't overdo moisture.  Moist, stuffy cages kill Avics.'_  The 'overthink' part won't be understood by many people.  
- I go thru several thousand adult crickets a month; I've never cut off ovipositors in over 40 years.  Not practical or necessary.  There's more important advice than this.  I usually don't have baby crickets in my cages either.  I feed my spiders when they're hungry, and crickets don't get much time to get in trouble.  
- I have I have 5 species of Haplopelma, and none have 7" of substrate.  Makes the cages too heavy and they really don't need it.  They're happy with several inches of moist substrate and a slanted piece of cork to hide under.  
- Best beginner T's should not include Avics, as too many are killed by beginners (look at all the_ 'My Dead Avic' _threads in any tarantula forum).  Also, rosea's long fasts and mood swings are not a good idea for a first spider.  Adults are cheap, but there's more important qualities to species selection than that.  
- Any handling advice should be:_ 'Don't do it.'_

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## LuiziBee (Apr 21, 2015)

Poec54 said:


> Good concept.  A few suggested changes:
> 
> - I'd mention both screen and mesh lids.
> - I'd reword it to say:_ 'If it's carapace can fit thru a hole, so can the rest of the spider.'
> ...


I appreciate your suggestions and will definitely consider them for my next rewrites. Thank you very much.  
My main concern with the meal worms and smooshing their heads, is because my large B. vagans got a pretty nasty chew mark on her from one. Kind of blew my mind. I guess she was holding it just right. But creeped me out enough. I rarely feed mealworms. Maybe once every 6 months or so. But now it's a concern I've got, especially if it's a smaller T. 
And I don't believe in handling at all, but knowing people are going to do it regardless of what anyone says, I decided to provide at least some safety advice and then also tell them why they shouldn't. So maybe (hopefully?) they'd re think or re consider it next time they have the "urge" to handle. Or in the very least, be more cautious. 
And the ovipositor, I've never cut it off. I think that day I was bored and couldn't think of a topic and saw someone  concerned about the "strange bugs" in their water dish. Instant inspiration. At least there's a few more people aware of it now. :/


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## Poec54 (Apr 21, 2015)

LuiziBee said:


> I appreciate your suggestions and will definitely consider them for my next rewrites. Thank you very much.
> My main concern with the meal worms and smooshing their heads, is because my large B. vagans got a pretty nasty chew mark on her from one. Kind of blew my mind. I guess she was holding it just right. But creeped me out enough. I rarely feed mealworms. Maybe once every 6 months or so. But now it's a concern I've got, especially if it's a smaller T.
> And I don't believe in handling at all, but knowing people are going to do it regardless of what anyone says, I decided to provide at least some safety advice and then also tell them why they shouldn't. So maybe (hopefully?) they'd re think or re consider it next time they have the "urge" to handle. Or in the very least, be more cautious.
> And the ovipositor, I've never cut it off. I think that day I was bored and couldn't think of a topic and saw someone  concerned about the "strange bugs" in their water dish. Instant inspiration. At least there's a few more people aware of it now. :/


Mealworms and superworms should hopefully be an occasional treat, not the foundation of their diet.  If you kill the mealworm/superworm and the spider doesn't eat it, you have a smelly dead insect.  Kind of a pointless death.  I'd rather 'recycle' them.  From my experience, if the spider's going to eat one (and many won't) it'll usually dive on it.  

For the sake of the hobby's future, we need to discourage handling.  I know we're not going to stop everyone, but it's an old school freak show stunt that doesn't belong in today's political and legal climate. _ "Look at me with the big hairy spider walking on me!"  _The mix of tarantula species has changed *radically *from the early days of handling.  Most species were the calmer NW terrestrials; but in the 1990's an influx of high strung NW tropicals came into the hobby.  In the mid 2000's OW's surged in popularity.  The majority of species in the hobby today are too high strung, fast, defensive, or potent to consider handling them.  Most of the public misses these distinctions, and thinks they all can be handled with impunity.  That mindset needs to change.  We can make the effort to keep the hobby from self-destructing, or we can sit by and watch it happen.  I'd rather be proactive.

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## LuiziBee (Apr 21, 2015)

Poec54 said:


> Mealworms and superworms should hopefully be an occasional treat, not the foundation of their diet.  If you kill the mealworm/superworm and the spider doesn't eat it, you have a smelly dead insect.  Kind of a pointless death.  I'd rather 'recycle' them.  From my experience, if the spider's going to eat one (and many won't) it'll usually dive on it.
> 
> For the sake of the hobby's future, we need to discourage handling.  I know we're not going to stop everyone, but it's an old school freak show stunt that doesn't belong in today's political and legal climate. _ "Look at me with the big hairy spider walking on me!"  _The mix of tarantula species has changed *radically *from the early days of handling.  Most species were the calmer NW terrestrials; but in the 1990's an influx of high strung NW tropicals came into the hobby.  In the mid 2000's OW's surged in popularity.  The majority of species in the hobby today are too high strung, fast, defensive, or potent to consider handling them.  Most of the public misses these distinctions, and thinks they all can be handled with impunity.  That mindset needs to change.  We can make the effort to keep the hobby from self-destructing, or we can sit by and watch it happen.  I'd rather be proactive.


Understandable. It's unfortunate that I hear too often of, for example, a pet store that has a "rose hair tarantula" for sale and it turns out to be a P. murinus or something along those lines and the employees will attempt to handle, thinking it's venom is "like a bee sting" or allow a customer to handle. All it takes is the wrong person getting bit or someone with a weaker system getting bit in the right spot one time and having a worse than typical reaction,  or unknowingly allowing a small child to handle and things go wrong, and the hobby itself could come crumbling down around us. Even something not nearly that bad, or a rumor in the wrong hands. It wouldn't take much. Look at the other hobbies that involves venomous animals. We definitely need to make sure to educate as many as possible. But not many are willing to listen, unfortunately. 
Excuse me if I just wrote a bunch of incomplete jibberish. I'm at work and on my phone trying to sneak replies. Lol I hope what I was trying to say came across.

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## Poec54 (Apr 21, 2015)

LuiziBee said:


> Understandable. It's unfortunate that I hear too often of, for example, a pet store that has a "rose hair tarantula" for sale and it turns out to be a P. murinus or something along those lines and the employees will attempt to handle, thinking it's venom is "like a bee sting" or allow a customer to handle. All it takes is the wrong person getting bit or someone with a weaker system getting bit in the right spot one time and having a worse than typical reaction,  or unknowingly allowing a small child to handle and things go wrong, and the hobby itself could come crumbling down around us. Even something not nearly that bad, or a rumor in the wrong hands. It wouldn't take much. Look at the other hobbies that involves venomous animals. We definitely need to make sure to educate as many as possible. But not many are willing to listen, unfortunately.



That's scary when people, especially parents, get a tarantula so they and the family can handle it (because they see it on TV and videos), and have no idea that most species aren't happy about that.

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## LuiziBee (Apr 21, 2015)

Poec54 said:


> That's scary when people, especially parents, get a tarantula so they and the family can handle it (because they see it on TV and videos), and have no that most species aren't happy about that.


It's all pretty scary. Which we're pretty lucky right now, because our hobby isn't much on the radar as it's still a fairly new thing and our "spiders" tend to get over looked, anyway, I'd imagine, =not that I know much about what I'm even ranting about right now, tbh) as far as exotic pets go. But, as a community, we should use this time to educate as many as possible and prevent higher ups  from trying to really ban and take away our pets (or whatever you'd like to call them) which we're still trying to even learn about as their natural habitats are getting destroyed and they're going extinct in the wild. Between that and hybridization, etc. We're just trying to protect and learn about these ancient creatures. They are beautiful, fascinating. I'd really hate some nieve person messing up and grabbing too much media attention and wrecking it for everyone. The time we have now is valuable. They'll come for our hobby soon, as they have with other exotics in the past. Constant over exaggerations in the papers, etc. It does no one any good, and we'll be loosing valuable time we have to properly identify or potentially save what true tarantulas we have. My tarantulas are the only thing I am passionate about. Spiders, bugs in general. 

I don't know what I'm talking about anymore. I'm on my phone. I need to just not try to respond unless I've got a computer in front of me so I can re read what I write easier. I apologize for my rant. I'm just passionate and hate to see the opportunity we have, as an entire community, go to waste.

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## TsunamiSpike (Apr 23, 2015)

Great little thread. Definitely worth a read from anyone, might just be for beginners but as you say none of us are experts.

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## Londoner (Apr 23, 2015)

Kudos to you LuiziBee for taking the time to compile these tips. I've been away from the boards for a while and there are many new members but it's good to see yourself and other more veteran forumites still putting in the work to help fellow hobbyists.

Good luck.

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## iligin (Apr 24, 2015)

I have no suggestions for tips but I follow you and you post some awesome stuff! keep it up.

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## goodoldneon (Apr 24, 2015)

I'm sorry, but it seems a bit disingenuous to take the opinions and experiences of other keepers, and present them as your own. This is, essentially, a compendium of the information found here and elsewhere.


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## Poec54 (Apr 24, 2015)

goodoldneon said:


> I'm sorry, but it seems a bit disingenuous to take the opinions and experiences of other keepers, and present them as your own. This is, essentially, a compendium of the information found here and elsewhere.



Not at all.  It doesn't happen in a vacuum.  Everything all of us know is built on what we're learned from others.  All of us have an accumulation of personal experience and knowledge gained from other collectors and breeders.

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## Yanose (Apr 24, 2015)

What poec says is very true I could not tell you who half the people are that gave me this tip or that tip. the fact that some one took the time to accumulate and write down some good tips and care info from this site is a good thing. I my self am working on software to track the blood lines and lineage of any spider in my breeding project. If it work well I will be sharing it with those of you who would like it.

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## LuiziBee (Apr 24, 2015)

That's probably one of the more frustrating things for beginners. Any questions you have about the your tarantula, the answer is usually going to be vague or un clear. Mostly because there is no real answer or because people simply haven't figured out the answer yet. The main reason I even like this site is because of all the collective information and when people write their experiences and actually update with what they tried, what worked, what didn't, etc. The hobby and the recommended ways to go about things change all the time, etc. I even said at the beginning what I wrote was basically my interpretation of things I've read and experienced over the years that could possibly help save someone's T or answer, as best as possible, questions they may have had along the way or probably will have. The entire hobby is collection of information, mostly from the hobbyist ourselves, as we experiment and find out what works best. As long as there's communication within the hobby and everyone helps everyone, we continue to learn and advance our knowledge.

---------- Post added 04-24-2015 at 10:26 AM ----------

Heck, one maybe two of my tips even say to read everything you can and ask as many people's opinions as possible. Not to take everything literally, and to build your own opinions as you progress. There's usually no real right or wrong answer. Just some ways work better than others in providing safety and the best results for your tarantula. I even think in the comments of one of my pictures (on IG) I told them not to always even listen to me. Research and find out how they feel. I'm not always going to be right (vermiculite lol) or maybe my opinions could be outdated in a year. You never know what's going to happen or become accepted.

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## LuiziBee (May 6, 2015)

My latest tip :



ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: Remove all uneaten (live) prey within 24 hours of being in the enclosure. Crickets and mealworms especially, may harm your tarantula. This is crucial if your tarantula decides to molt. They may kill and eat your tarantula. I also recommend not leaving dead prey in there very long, as you may attract mites, grow mold, or just have a rotten cricket sitting in there stinking the up enclosure. All of those can be annoying. Remove food boluses, as well. If your tarantula is refusing food, it may be fasting or in pre molt. After you remove prey, try feeding again in a week or two. If your tarantula molts, don't feed it for two weeks to a month to avoid stress and damaged fangs, as your tarantula is not yet fully hardened. Don't hold your tarantula during this period, either.


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## LuiziBee (May 20, 2015)

ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: The Do's and Don'ts of Molting Tarantulas! It's that time of year when everyone's entire collection suddenly decides to molt at the same time. I've already been receiving questions about tarantulas molting, so I figured I'd make this one for ya'll. Feel free to ask me more questions if I forget anything. If you see your tarantula on it's back, DO NOT TOUCH IT! It is NOT dead! It is molting! An extremely delicate and stressful time in a tarantulas life where she sheds her exoskeleton in order to grow. This process may take place every few months to every few years, depending on the size of your tarantula. The molting process may take a couple of hours, sometimes up to to 12 or so. Tarantulas may molt on upside down, right side up, sideways, in it's burrow, in the open, on a molting mat, etc. Do not panic. Yes she's Okay (more often than not). Yes she has enough room. She knows what she's doing.
Make sure there is no live prey in her enclosure. This should be easily avoided because a tarantula in premolt will usually fast for a couple of weeks or months beforehand. You should never leave live food in your tarantulas enclosure for over 24 hours, anyway.  Crickets and mealworms especially can harm (or kill) your tarantula while she's molting. Do not attempt to raise humidity or water your tarantula WHILE she is molting. That does nothing for her. It only counts prior to molt and afterwards. Best to just leave her entire enclosure alone until she is finished to avoid accidents. When the process is done, DO NOT FEED for two weeks to a month (mostly with larger specimens) as they require time to harden and are delicate. A good indication she is hardened is black fangs. Not red. Do not handle your tarantula for two weeks to a month. Same reasons as stated above.  side note: I do not condone holding your tarantula, anyway.

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## Chris LXXIX (May 20, 2015)

I'd love to add another thing about the crickets, or the other prey's found in the wild, that someone could, even in good faith or for ignorance, feed to T's: even if i don't have scientific proof for back what i say, i have witness a sling GBB die from DKS syndrome after a week, after the poor thing ate a wild caught cricket, caught near a vineyard. No ICU, nothing saved the T. 
In all honesty then i believe that DKS and what the prey could "carry" inside are connected. The best advice.. never feed T's a wild caught prey.


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## cold blood (May 20, 2015)

DKS=:wall:

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## lalberts9310 (May 20, 2015)

Mr Rock Bottom said:


> I'd love to add another thing about the crickets, or the other prey's found in the wild, that someone could, even in good faith or for ignorance, feed to T's: even if i don't have scientific proof for back what i say, i have witness a sling GBB die from DKS syndrome after a week, after the poor thing ate a wild caught cricket, caught near a vineyard. No ICU, nothing saved the T.
> In all honesty then i believe that DKS and what the prey could "carry" inside are connected. The best advice.. never feed T's a wild caught prey.


DKS doesn't exist....


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## Chris LXXIX (May 20, 2015)

lalberts9310 said:


> DKS doesn't exist....


Maybe the name is not accurate, maybe tomorrow (but i doubt, since no one from the science seems interested in spider disease) will have a new, and better name for that.
I have been a witness to that.. T died not for dehydratation, not for too much moisture (was a GBB, so was housed on the dry side) or nematodes, an injury due to a fall etc
That T started to become sick day after day and died after a week from that vineyard cricket WC prey. 

His/Her (was a 3 cm, unsexed sling) legs were totally out of control, spastic movements, almost 6 legs out of 8 with no control in the last days.
I examined the T and i haven't found that white stuff near the fangs that nematodes can carry.. i do know that every unknow disease it's called sometimes "DKS".
But i think the definition "dyskinetic syndrome" suits well as name those spastic movements and, also.. the t was extremely sensitive, not in a "normal" way, you know.. only the gentle touch of a finger, with no moving or else to the enclosure led the T to start moving that spastic way like crazy.
I don't know.. but what i defintely know, 100% sure, it's that the WC cricket (those vineyards are highly sprayed with chemicals) was the cause.


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## LuiziBee (May 20, 2015)

Mr Rock Bottom said:


> I'd love to add another thing about the crickets, or the other prey's found in the wild, that someone could, even in good faith or for ignorance, feed to T's: even if i don't have scientific proof for back what i say, i have witness a sling GBB die from DKS syndrome after a week, after the poor thing ate a wild caught cricket, caught near a vineyard. No ICU, nothing saved the T.
> In all honesty then i believe that DKS and what the prey could "carry" inside are connected. The best advice.. never feed T's a wild caught prey.


I think chemicals are usually what cause "DKS" and it's "symptoms". Which really, DKS is just symptoms of whatever is an unexplained illness the tarantula has. It's not an actual illness itself. I do however believe what causes the tarantula to act the way is typically (in at least a lot if not all cases) some kind of chemical exposure. Someone spraying something in or around the house. Something accidentally getting on your hands and transferring when you feed the prey. Bugs outside would most likely be exposed to random chemicals all the time. Pet flea medication in the home, air sprays, colognes, cleaning supplies, etc etc etc. List could go on and on and on. There are chemicals everywhere inside and out.

---------- Post added 05-20-2015 at 07:50 PM ----------

I didn't notice there were posts after that first one. Oops.

---------- Post added 05-20-2015 at 07:58 PM ----------

And that's basically what I said regarding wild caught prey. Never to do it because Pesticides, Parasites, and natural toxins.

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## cold blood (May 20, 2015)

DKS is a symptom.   A diagnosis of DKS would be like the doctor telling you that you had cough.

What you describe sounds exactly like descriptions of pesticide exposure.  Classic case of why most don't/won't feed wild caught prey...very few have real access to vast amounts of pesticide free areas.

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## Tim Benzedrine (May 20, 2015)

I believe one would need to be pretty -um, _naive_ to feed anything prey that was found near an agricultural area such as a vineyard. You might get away with something far from where crops are being raised (but then you might not, so why risk it) but anyplace trying to raise crops is ground zero for pesticides.

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## LuiziBee (May 20, 2015)

Tim Benzedrine said:


> I believe one would need to be pretty -um, _naive_ to feed anything prey that was found near an agricultural area such as a vineyard. You might get away with something far from where crops are being raised (but then you might not, so why risk it) but anyplace trying to raise crops is ground zero for pesticides.


Not to mention bugs travel and can get pretty far without trying between legs, wings, birds, random passing mammals, vehicles, etc. They aren't confined and bred generation after generation in a mostly, if not completely, controlled environment.

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## widowkeeper (May 21, 2015)

i have kept hundreds of adults and thousands of slings and I have seen (dks) two times in my collection 

the first time I assume was from white mold, the t was a h lividum  adult female, her cage was moved from my spider room to the top shelf in my pantry, why or how I never found out 
but it must have been around feeding time her cage was just a mass of white from mold. when I took her out and cleaned her up I thought for sure she was dead I put her in icu where she stayed for about a week. after about the 3rd day she started to show improvement after a week she could walk  I then moved her to a new cage and for months she would have good days and bad days up until she molted after that she never had a problem   

the second time was a box of slings that was misplaced/forgotten. there were 50+ all in their own deli cups they had gotten no water,food or fresh air for 2 maby 3 weeks they never even got rehoused. about 10 were still alive and all but 3 showed signs of (dks) they all went into icu  4 lived. it was the most expensive lesson I ever learned... keep a white board to track your shipments

in all honesty I think 90% of supposed (dks) deaths are dew to poor care out of the dozens of (dks ) deaths ive seen/heard about almost all were in the care of novice keepers


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## LuiziBee (May 21, 2015)

widowkeeper said:


> i have kept hundreds of adults and thousands of slings and I have seen (dks) two times in my collection
> 
> the first time I assume was from white mold, the t was a h lividum  adult female, her cage was moved from my spider room to the top shelf in my pantry, why or how I never found out
> but it must have been around feeding time her cage was just a mass of white from mold. when I took her out and cleaned her up I thought for sure she was dead I put her in icu where she stayed for about a week. after about the 3rd day she started to show improvement after a week she could walk  I then moved her to a new cage and for months she would have good days and bad days up until she molted after that she never had a problem
> ...


Do you think the one in the pantry could have been exposed to a rogue Roach that may have ran across and carried some pesticides? Never know where those buggers end up at. I had my first forgotten about tarantula recently. Not sure how long I had just flat out forgotten about it. But it was fine. Thank goodness tarantulas are pretty darn hardy for the most part. Mine was young, too. White mold...  which one is that? The only mold I ever see is the stuff that is yellow and has the appearance of eggs. Is that the same as you're talking about? Or the kind that appears in overly humid sling enclosures on deceased boluses and prey? Or something completely different?


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## widowkeeper (May 21, 2015)

no possibility for any thing to have gotten in her cage her vents were on the top and the cage barely fit on the shelf cutting off all ventilation the mold was from what was left after feeding

the white mold is hair like and powdery I could give  her a lil shake and powder would be everywhere, it looked like she had been rolling around in powdered sugar 

as for roaches.. well ill just say there is nothing in this world more deserving of the bottom of my shoe. that's something you step on not feed to your pets


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## Arachnomaniac19 (May 21, 2015)

widowkeeper said:


> i have kept hundreds of adults and thousands of slings and I have seen (dks) two times in my collection
> 
> the first time I assume was from white mold, the t was a h lividum  adult female, her cage was moved from my spider room to the top shelf in my pantry, why or how I never found out
> but it must have been around feeding time her cage was just a mass of white from mold. when I took her out and cleaned her up I thought for sure she was dead I put her in icu where she stayed for about a week. after about the 3rd day she started to show improvement after a week she could walk  I then moved her to a new cage and for months she would have good days and bad days up until she molted after that she never had a problem
> ...


It almost seems neurological: lack of air causing brain damage and pesticides killing brain cells. Better call the spider CSI I guess.


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## widowkeeper (May 21, 2015)

lack of water/humidity in every case I have ever heard of a t living they were placed in icu with heat and high humidity I think it all comes down to that, their body not retaining/regulating  water . I have seen my own t never have an issues again after it molted. ive seen poorly cared for ones show signs right befor a molt and either die during or with in days. to me that suggests that the problem lies in the skin or connection of skin and nerves
 i know pretty much nothing about how tarantuls work ...but if I understand correctly the fluid under the skin plays a huge part in the tarantulas mobility. I think dks symptoms are caused by a breakdown in those fluids be it from a lack of humidity pesticides or mold if your lubrication breaks down so does your ability to move freely. 

I may be way off base but when not neglecting my tarantulas I keep them fed/watered/clean and have not lost one to anything like dks  
I have had my share mistakes ive killed slings with perfumed paper towels .non organic dirt . cheap fake plants. glass adhesive.  ventilation/humidity issues you name it ive prolly done it ...but just flip and die is not dks


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## vespers (May 21, 2015)

LuiziBee said:


> Not to mention bugs travel and can get pretty far without trying between legs


I completely took this part in the wrong context when I first read your sentence. :laugh:


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## LuiziBee (May 22, 2015)

vespers said:


> I completely took this part in the wrong context when I first read your sentence. :laugh:


:giggle: oops

---------- Post added 05-22-2015 at 11:06 AM ----------

Not sure if I managed to get my point across so well with this one. Attempting to downplay, but acknowledge, without causing panic or too much thought. The day before, I made a video showing an enclosure I've had have a mite explosion this week due to a cricket that died and I forgot about. I have had mites in most, if not all of my enclosures for years, but not a lot. Forget one cricket, sudden explosion. Using myself as an example, I show them what can happen, especially this time of year. I didn't really mention or the bad kind of mites and try to explain this particular type isn't that bad. More annoying than anything. 



"Just to reiterate. ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: SPOT CLEAN! SPOT CLEAN! SPOT CLEAN! SPOT CLEAN!!!! This time of year, with the higher temperatures and higher humidity can cause an explosion of mites in your enclosures. Usually there's no reason to worry, if they are just the kind that eat the leftover food and other rotting material, but even those can be unsightly and may irritate your tarantula. Whenever doing enclosure maintenance, be sure to just pick up pieces here and there. Left over deceased crickets, body parts, pieces of exuvium, boluses, mold spots, etc. If your situation is really out of hand and you are concerned, you can always look into isopods and springtails, who are also little cleanup crews and will compete with the mites for food. You can also try drying out your enclosures a bit, or even, if you are desperate, putting the whole enclosure in the freezer. Just make sure you remove your tarantula first. "

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## Arachnomaniac19 (May 22, 2015)

Just want to add that Isopods (and maybe springtails) can't live in dry tanks.


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## LuiziBee (May 22, 2015)

Arachnomaniac19 said:


> Just want to add that Isopods (and maybe springtails) can't live in dry tanks.


Yes. I do believe with springtails you can add a wet spot until you no longer want or need them. But it's been a while since I've read up on them. Always sucks because I notice mites typically in my dryer setups. Like my Monocentropus balfouri enclosures. Annoying.


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## Chris LXXIX (May 22, 2015)

cold blood said:


> DKS is a symptom.   A diagnosis of DKS would be like the doctor telling you that you had cough.
> 
> What you describe sounds exactly like descriptions of pesticide exposure.  Classic case of why most don't/won't feed wild caught prey...very few have real access to vast amounts of pesticide free areas.


Yeah... when i see (Thank God, by me, only one time) that behavior i'd love, maybe in error, to call "DKS" because, for me, the word "dyskinetic" suits well those crazy, and full of suffer, spastic legs movements of them.
I completely agree with you, pesticide exposure. But was not completely his fault, because back then, here, in the first half of '90, there was (obviously) no internet, no forums, no "good site like this one, where serious keepers give, for free, great advice/s that i, being a total idiot, will not follow tomorrow".
Back then here was the prehistoric era for T's. That's why. Lot of, in "the good way", ignorance.

---------- Post added 05-22-2015 at 03:03 PM ----------




Tim Benzedrine said:


> I believe one would need to be pretty -um, _naive_ to feed anything prey that was found near an agricultural area such as a vineyard. You might get away with something far from where crops are being raised (but then you might not, so why risk it) but anyplace trying to raise crops is ground zero for pesticides.


I agree... you are damn right, and i know. You can find the reasons on my comment below.
Hello


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## LuiziBee (Jun 30, 2015)

2 part, 15 second each, tutorial video and description of The Bag Transfer Method.




ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: THE BAG TRANSFER METHOD! Part 1 of 2. 
This works well for smaller, lightning fast tarantulas. You will need a bag, rubber band, and a poking stick (pencil, paintbrush, etc just nothing sharp)
1.) Put rubber band on the enclosure the tarantula currently resides in. 2.) Quickly open the lid and stick the open end of the bag under the rubber band. Ensure your tarantula isn't going to run while you do this. 3.) Take your poking stick and stick it through the bag. Ensure hole is only large enough for your utensil to go through. (may jab through, but preferably make a slit with a pair of scissors.) 4.) Gently guide your tarantula out of its enclosure and into the far end of the bag. 5.) Starting at the opening of the enclosure, close the bag with your hands. You may retire the rubber band and poking stick at this point. You should now have your tarantula safely in the bag. 
To be continued..... 




ANDREA'S TARANTULA TIP: THE BAG TRANSFER METHOD! Part 2 of 2.
6.) Now your tarantula is safely out of it's old enclosure and into the bag, stick the open end of the bag into the new enclosure. 7.) Gently coax your tarantula into its new home. Just be very careful there are no cracks for it to escape through and definitely don't accidentally smoosh your tarantula, either. 8.) Your tarantula is now in its new home with hopefully little to no problems! Congratulations!! 
Sorry the video quality sucked. Trying to film myself in 15 second intervals without the P. irminia escaping on me was a little hard. Haha 
Hope you enjoyed!


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## LuiziBee (Jan 18, 2016)

Andrea's Tarantula Tip: FEEDING! This is going to be a little hard for me to explain, so if I'm not clear enough on something, please let me know.
Most people, after they've been keeping for a while, realize there's no real set way to feed your tarantula. Most feed by abdomen size, some try to keep a schedule. There are no real rules, besides "don't make your tarantula obese".

Slings - Generally, you want to feed your slings more because you want them to get out of their more delicate stage in life, where they are more prone to randomly dying. Possibly once or twice a week, depending on what you're giving them.

Adults and Juveniles - You don't need to feed as much as you would a sling. Power feeding is not necessary, and can shorten their life span. Though there are some instances where you would need to power feed. I'm not getting into that now. If the abdomen is small and they are kept fairly warm, a small meal once a week is fine. But you can also feed once every two weeks to a month. If their abdomen is very large (obese), I advice against feeding much. Skip a few weeks or a month, then give a small meal. It won't hurt her.

Premolt - if you are unsure whether your tarantula is in premolt or just fasting because you over fed her, try throwing in a cricket for 24 hours. If uneaten, remove and try again in the next week or two.

Post molt - for slings, wait about a week to feed again after molting. Adults and juveniles, about 2 weeks to a month. You want to ensure your tarantula has hardened completely.

There are also variables to consider. Such as how warm their area is where you keep them, what prey item you are using, etc. Warmer tarantulas grow quicker than cooler tarantulas. So would you feed a warm tarantula more or less?

Also, always, always, always provide a fresh, clean dish of water at all times. They may be able to survive long periods without food, but they won't survive without water. If you have tissue, a sponge, or gel crystals in your water dish, please remove that immediately!

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## cold blood (Jan 18, 2016)

I dislike the term powerfeeding, because its so ambiguous.  For some it means anything more than once a week, for others its twice a week, for others its every 2-3 days....for me it means always having food available, or daily feedings, which almost never happens.   I also think the shortening of life concern is much more apparent/significant with quick maturing males than it is with females.

I'd like to suggest that for feeding suspected pre-molt ts, pre-killed prey is the best way to go, especially for lesser experienced keepers.

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## scott99 (Jan 18, 2016)

cold blood said:


> I dislike the term powerfeeding, because its so ambiguous.  For some it means anything more than once a week, for others its twice a week, for others its every 2-3 days....for me it means always having food available, or daily feedings, which almost never happens.   I also think the shortening of life concern is much more apparent/significant with quick maturing males than it is with females.
> 
> I'd like to suggest that for feeding suspected pre-molt ts, pre-killed prey is the best way to go, especially for lesser experienced keepers.


I have to agree. I was a bit confused when I first hear the term  "powerfeeding".


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## LuiziBee (Jan 19, 2016)

cold blood said:


> I dislike the term powerfeeding, because its so ambiguous.  For some it means anything more than once a week, for others its twice a week, for others its every 2-3 days....for me it means always having food available, or daily feedings, which almost never happens.   I also think the shortening of life concern is much more apparent/significant with quick maturing males than it is with females.
> 
> I'd like to suggest that for feeding suspected pre-molt ts, pre-killed prey is the best way to go, especially for lesser experienced keepers.


Great suggestions, thanks!! Feeding is such a weird topic to try and cover because so many people do so many different things. It's all pretty much just "get a feel for it and guess" Lol I'll definitely try and find another way to word those parts.

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## darkness975 (Jan 20, 2016)

I subscribed

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