# Emperor Scorpion Q&A



## Cyris69

*Pandinus imperator:
 Questions & Answers*​
*Q:* _Do Emperor Scorpions smell? Will they stink up my entire room?_
*A:* No, the do not have a body “odor”. Though, the cage might give off a very light musky smell from the moisture and high humidity. The smell if any would not make it anywhere else but the tank. Dead scorpions do smell rank 

*Q:* _Can I use a back light?_
*A:* Yes and No, UV rays are harmful to scorpions. Yeah, it’s cool they glow neon green and fine to show it off infrequently for a short period of time. So make sure you get heat bulbs that do NOT emit UV (UVA or UVB) rays.

*Q:* _What substrate should I use?_
*A:* Coconut fiber substrate is the best. A few brands who make it are Eco Earth & ZooMed. Peat moss with NO fertilizer or plant food additives, just 100% peat moss is another great choice.

*Q:* _How much substrate should I use depth wise?_
*A:* I recommend 4”- 6” aka 10.2 cm - 15.2 cm of substrate (Much more if you have the tank for it) which allows them to burrow to any depth needed to help regulate their body’s temperature. I also recommend that you lightly pack the first few layers to make a more stable burrowing substrate.

*Q:* _What humidity and temperature should I keep my scorpion at?_
*A:* The RH (Relative Humidity) should be 80-90%. If the substrate is moist enough that it holds its shape when you squeeze it very tightly and has a few drips of water come out, then there is no need for a hydrometer as long as it stays like that. The temperature gradient should be cool low 80’s on one side of the tank and high 80’s on the other. 86F is a perfect temperature for the hot side; 88F would be fine as well.

*Q:* _What's better, a heat mat, ceramic heat emitter, or a heat bulb?_
*A:* It all depends on personal preference. Heat mat I think is less efficient and doesn’t give off lots of heat. The preferred heat source would be a ceramic or heat bulb. The ceramic heat emitter is essentially a light bulb without light and more expensive but a great heater (Infrared photons) so a heat bulb (Infrared) is the same thing but with light. 

*Q:* _If I use a heat mat where do I place it?_
*A:* You can can place it on the back outside wall of your glass aquarium. Do NOT place it on the bottom unless you enjoy steamed scorpion. If you are using a plastic tank/container you must buy a plastic safe heat mat which you can find in any hermit crab section of a pet store.

*Q:* _Would a 5-gallon aquarium fish tank work for a single adult Emperor Scorpion?_
*A:* Yes, this is a fine sized tank for one adult. I recommend 3.5-5gals per Emperor Scorpion.

*Q:* _My Emperor Scorpion is not drinking, what should I do?_
*A:* Don’t worry, scorpions drink when they get thirsty just as humans do. They will even bathe in the water bowl given its large enough. Scorpions are most active at night so you might not see them do it.

*Q:* _How often should you clean the terrarium?_
*A:* Usually ever 2-3 months. Some go much longer, considering coco fiber is pretty cheap there isn’t a real reason not to do it that often.

*Q:* _Glass terrariums or plastic terrariums? Which would you recommend; Why?_
*A:* Again, as heat sources its personal preference. When it comes to limited space and stack-ability I’d recommend plastic sterilite containers with the correct amount of proper sized holes drilled. For more of a show piece and for a communal setup I would recommend a glass fish tank. It looks nice and you have lots of room for décor.

*Q:* _My Emperor Scorpion isn’t eating! What should I do?_
*A:* Take the prey item out and go watch TV. Usually scorpions will not eat for 5-10 days prior to a molt and should not be given food for 7-10 days after a molt. So if it’s a juvenile or sub-adult it may be only coming up for a molt. The other cause could be it’s just not hungry. You should feed your scorpion 1-2 times a week and 1-2 proper sized crickets each feeding or just one proper sized roach for the size of the scorpion. Don’t forget to remove the prey item after 24 if it is not eaten.

*Q:* _Do they need a water bowl? If so what size?_
*A:* Yes, Emperors drink a lot of water and require a bowl be present in the tank. The size of the water dish/bowl should be relative to the size of the scorpion. If it’s a 2nd instar you should use small bottle cap. Adults need a wide shallow ½” to ¾” deep water bowl. You can add rock pebbles to the bowl so make sure it can get out.

*Q:* _My Emperor Scorpion is running around trying to climb up the sides/corners of the tank is something wrong?_
*A:* This is normal behavior; they are trying to escape from their tank or just exploring the terrain. The don’t know that there are 4 glass walls preventing this and are seeing if maybe its just a ledge they can get over. Now if it’s running around and appears to be stinging itself or going on it’s back then check the temperature it may be way too hot.

*Q:* _Is my scorpion eating itself?_
*A:* No, you scorpion is merely cleaning itself; arachnids are meticulous cleaners. You might see it with its “stinger” in its mouth or scraping its body. They also will clean their claws, underbelly, and legs. They even bathe in the water bowl from time to time.

*Q:* _My scorpion has been leaving what appear to be cricket parts around the entrance and also in his hide. It had what almost looked like mold on it. What can I do?_
*A:* Spot clean every feeding, checking for any left over prey parts and for any mold that might be growing. Now you can't go digging up the hide or burrow to check. Scorpions usually do not defecate or leave food remains in their hides/burrows. They should give up on their burrow if its get very moldy inside which isn’t common. You can throw in a good handful of isopods aka (Rollie Pollies, Pill Bugs, Woodlouse) they will eat dead remains but they don’t get everything.

*Q:* _My Emperor hasn’t come out of its burrow or hide should I be worried?_
*A:* No, you shouldn’t have anything to worry about. It usually means the scorpion is happy. New comers usually don’t know that Emperor Scorpion are basically “pet holes” they spend most of their life inside their burrows waiting for prey to just pass right in front of the entrance.

*Q:* _What is this white stuff on the ground in my scorpion’s tank or on my scorpion?_
*A:* If it looks like “white out” then its poo. If it’s fuzzy and appears to have hair then that would be mold from dead remains or mold growing on the poo.

*Q:* _How do I know if my Emperor is a male or female?_
*A:* You can tell by the size of the pectines(the feather looking things). The males would be much thicker and longer than female’s pectines. You can also tell by the shape of the Genital Operculum. The males have an oval shaped Operculum and the females are more rectangular. Here is a link to one of my sexing pictures http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/cyris69/Sexing.jpg?t=1198270713

*Q:* _Is my Emperor gravid? _
*A:* If you have witnessed the mating process and have spotted the spermaphore then I would say yes. If your scorpion is an adult female and is very large (fat) and you can see what looks to be small rice colored balls along the sides then those are the embryos.

*Q:* _Why won’t my Emperor leave its hide or burrow?_
*A:* Around the boards we call Emperor Scorpions “pet holes”. The reason for this: Emperors are pretty inactive and are ambush predators. They lay and wait with their claws barely out of the hide/burrow for some unsuspecting critter to walk right into its claws. They are nocturnal and come out here and there some nights to drink, explore, or to go to the restroom. They also use their burrow to regulate their body’s temperature. If it spends most of its time in the burrow/hide then that generally means its content or happy.

*Q:* _My scorpion is acting very sluggish and drags its tail along the ground, is there something wrong?_
*A:* Yes, this means 95% of the time that the scorpion is on its last leg and going to pass soon. Also check the tank temperature to make sure its warm.

*Q:* _Is any old red bulb fine for viewing my scorpion at night?_
*A:* Yes and No. Depending on the frequency you view you scorpion depends if its fine or not. If it isn’t clearly stated to be a Infrared bulb then it would emit UV (UVA & UVB) rays which are harmful to scorpions. So it would be ok once and a while for a minute or two to use a non Infrared bulb. I’d still recommend you buy a low wattage IR bulb to view them with.

*Q:* _Can I have more than one Pandinus species or any other tropical scorpion in a mix communal together?_
*A:* No, some have had success with a cross Pandinus species communal and some with H. spinifer. It is not recommended and will most always result in casualties. It hear its easier to have a communal of all females than it is males due to males being very territorial. 

*Q:* _How old is my Emperor?_
*A:* There is absolutely no way of telling unless you have bred and raised them yourself. You can tell if it’s and adult or not by the color of the telson (The bulbous looking thing the stinger is attached to). If it’s white it’s a juvenile, if it’s a milky darker white than it is a sub-adult, if its dark red/brown then it is an adult

*Q:* _Are they mating or fighting? How can I tell?_
*A:* Well, that’s a 50/50. Sometimes they like it rough  
Here are the 2 part video of my adult pair mating and the break up at the end which is fighting. 
Part I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkWK7DK9rLY
Part II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgGIG-nhkDk
Part II is embarrassing considering it was my first time seeing mating and I blew on them to break up the fight once the lost the hold from there Chelicerae. No Spermaphore was found.

*Q:* _Can I put live plants into my scorpion’s tank?_
*A:* Yes, you can add tropical species of plants into you tank to help out with humidity and décor. Only problem is that it give something for your crickets or other insect food for you scorpions to hide and climb on. The second problem would be that you will now require a UV bulb to give light to your plants so that they can photosynthesize. UV rays are not healthy for scorpions if they come in prolonged contact over time with it. However, considering how Emperors aren't to surface active I don’t think this will pose too much of a problem and is something you can do at your own risk so to speak. Also, you mist wash them very well to make sure there are no pesticides or chemicals on the plant. If its a plant that might be harmful if the scorpion ingests from the crickets or other items eating the plant then I wouldn't place it in there obviously.

*Q:* Can I just feed super worms or meal worms to my scorpion?
*A:* Yes. However, considering their high concentration of fat makes them not the most healthy choice. They are fine for "treats" or feeding here in there with a mix of crickets.
I will have the analysis chart up for the most common feeders as soon as I get permission from the owners to post it here. Until then here is the link http://doubleds.org/contactus.html


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## Brendan

Yeah to be honest, half of the threads posting here are related to emperor scorpions.

They're so cool though!!!

Anyways, a few weeks ago I made a thread with several questions, which all got answered.

Right here -> http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=111086


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## Cyris69

I know my effort will be futile for the most part and won't completely stop this constant barrage of "Emperor Scorpion" threads but maybe it will help cut it down some and maybe become a sticky.
I'm going to scour the board and compile a full Pandinus imperator Q&A.

I will update here and there and wait and add several items to the thread rather than constantly updating bumping the thread. If anyone wants to help out by sending me common or more complex questions and well written answers to them or I will answer them that would be greatly appreciated to help cover all corners.

Once complete or I have a lot of them maybe have a area to discuss the question ordering. Try not to post much to this thread if you decide to post at all just give me a PM so it keeps this thread to single page. I'm sure I'm going to learn a lot from this and have brain spasms every time I read or hear the words emperor scorpion  This is going to be a slow process and will be low on my main to-do list.


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## Cyris69

Q&A Updated.
Please PM if you find any spelling or grammar errors. Incorrect or wrong answers or wording.


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## Brian S

> *Q:* What substrate should I use?
> *A:* Coconut fiber substrate is the best. A few brands who make it are Eco Earth & ZooMed. Peat moss with NO fertilizer or plant food additives, just 100% peat moss is another great choice.


I know several that have used Miracle Grow Peat for years with no problems.



> *Q:* How much substrate should I use depth wise?
> *A:* I recommend 4”-6” aka 10.2 cm - 15.2 cm of substrate which allows them to burrow to any depth needed to help regulate their body’s temperature. I also recommend that you lightly pack the first few layers to make a more stable burrowing substrate.


Up to 10 or even 12 inches is even better (if you have a deep enough tank that is) 



> *Q:* Would a 5-gallon aquarium fish tank work for a single adult Emperor Scorpion?
> *A:* Yes, this is a fine sized tank for one adult. I recommend 3.5-5gals per Emperor Scorpion.


A plastic shoe or sweater box works much better. By drilling holes around the sides you allow less ventilation than with the screen top your fish aquarium comes with thus keeping it more humid therefore the substrate wont dry out as quickly



> *Q:* How often should you clean the terrarium?
> *A:* Usually ever 2-3 months. Some go much longer, considering coco fiber is pretty cheap there isn’t a real reason not to do it that often.


I dont think I have ever cleaned mine. If I have I forgot it:8o 



> *Q:* Glass terrariums or plastic terrariums? Which would you recommend; Why?
> *A:* Again, as heat sources its personal preference. When it comes to limited space and stack-ability I’d recommend plastic “Kritter Keepers”. For more of a show piece and for a communal setup I would recommend a glass fish tank. It looks nice and you have lots of room for décor.


Oh dear!! You said Kritter Keeper!! Oh man I thought I taught you better than that (I say with a tear in my eye)
KKs are probably the worst thing you can put them in IMO. You can not keep a humid environment for long on those damn things. If you're going plastic, make it a rubbermade or sterlite box (same as shoe or sweater box). The only thing those KKs are good for are desert species

All in all not too bad but some improvement is needed in your FAQ thread, especially that KK stuff. I am still in tears and hurting from within since you recommended one of those blasted things:4: 
I really thought I raised you better than that! ( I say with another tear in my eye)


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## Cyris69

Thanks for the info. I'm sitting in the corner as I type 

I know KK are "bad" ventilation wise I only own one and use sterilite containers for everthing else I have no idea why I didn't say that insted. Will change immediately. However, KK look soo much better than those shoe boxes if you going to display them. It is much more economical to use sterilite containers and much more convenient. My large KK I store my 3i and 4i emps in keeps the humidity at 80-95% at all times though. The top 1/2" of sub dries out super quick though.


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## Brian S

Cyris69 said:


> My large KK I store my 3i and 4i emps in keeps the humidity at 80-95% at all times though. The top 1/2" of sub dries out super quick though.


I am really crying the blues now!;P 
How accurate do you think that gauge is? If its from a pet shop I venture to say not very (sniffle sniffle)
You even said its not neccessary in your original post


> If the substrate is moist enough that it holds its shape when you squeeze it very tightly and has a few drips of water come out, then there is no need for a hydrometer as long as it stays like that.


Now that I know you keep those poor 3i and 4i Emps in a blasted KK I am really crying aloud now!!

Stop hurting my tender feelings!!


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## ~Abyss~

you might wanna talk about false bottom. I have a guide on a self sustaining enviroment. No cleaning ect. I posted it on the SCABIES site but here it goes



			
				abyss_x3 said:
			
		

> okay I forgot about the humidity. These are tropical species so YES moist is your only choice here. Also they like to burrow so you will need 7 inches of substrate. I use eco-earth but Im just fancy like that. Unless you want to be sparying the tank every 5 minutes heres a way to make the enclosure pretty much self functioning.
> -First get your tank clear of all things and add about 3 inches of gravel.
> -(optional) get a screen mess to cover the gravel and cut a small corner.
> -cut the bottom of a very tall bottle and place on the hole remeber to put the small hole up(top) and the big hole(base) toward the gravel.
> -now add your substrate
> - Add your deco and hides.
> 
> 
> A little extra that really helps
> -add some rollie pollies and dont worry if they breed.(make sure there pesticide free)
> -buy some moss from a petshop and put it over your hides( it makes great decor. and also sustaines crickets for like months)
> -make your own tunnel so that the base touches the glass (allows you to observe your scorpion when it decideds it needs to burrow )
> -put plastic wrap on the inside of your enclosure lid covering about 3/4 of it.(highly recomended)
> You only need to put water down the bottle every few months (2 times a year) and only need to clean every other 2 months or so. And very light cleaning at that.


 I still have this setup with a lot more isopods and i'm not really using it anymore still pretty functional.


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## InfestedGoat

I think my KK works very well. I got a peice of plexiglass on top and the sides already have ventilation so it balances perfectly. Humidity is always around 80-90.


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## ~Abyss~

It's a lot easier without the KK because the humidity won't stay that high for long.


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## Xaranx

KK are fine as long as you restrict the ventilation, which you did.


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## Brendan

What about Exo Terra's Faunariums? Wouldn't they work okay as "plastic terrariums" for emps scorps? I've seen loads of people using em.


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## marcelo_987

Please, someone, make this a sticky.


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## Brendan

Here are some of my more recent questions.

Q: Would feeding my Emp Scorp live grasshoppers caught outside/backyard, be okay?

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=111778

Q: Do females attack and consume males after mating?

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=111190

Q: Would any red light bulb for watching my emperor at night?

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=111778


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## Cyris69

Thanks everyone for you comments and questions submits. Please PM them to me not post them here. Makes the thread very unorganized


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## Cyris69

OK, I have made a small update of 7 more Q&A's.
Keep those questions coming, please PM(Private Message) them to me.
Thanks for all of you participating.


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## Brian S

Cyris69 said:


> OK, I have made a small update of 7 more Q&A's.


Whew!! I was really worried about that when I read it. I was really skeered you were gonna make me cry again like you did last night "whew"


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## Cyris69

You know I wouldn't ever try and hurt you 
Added 3 or 4 more just now.


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## Mr. Mordax

marcelo_987 said:


> Please, someone, make this a sticky.


Seconded!

(Though, I think you were a bit harsh on blacklights -- just leaving it as "infrequently" is my suggestion.)


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## Cyris69

Ok, changed it to Yes and No. Thanks guys for pushing the hopes of this making a sticky. I'd feel so accomplished. I thought it was time I "contributed" more than just my opinions and thoughts in threads and make a useful one myself.


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## Brian S

> It is also easier to have a communal of all females than it is males due to males being very territorial.


You sure?:?


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## Cyris69

that's what I've read and heard. I have no personal experience there. You should know much more than me 

Is this a test!?! Damn it, I'm in my underwear, people are laughing!! **** forgot my #2 pencil!!!

Edit**
I added a few more.
Please if you read through it and find spelling errors, incorrect words or word uses, grammatical errors, or incorrect answers/information please PM ASAP so I can fix it. I have written all the answers to these questions. If I have a hard time finishing one I will take in mind others answers to write a correct response.


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## Cyris69

*Final? and reorgnized*

I would like you guys to review this and tell me any last items that need to be added. How to you like the ordering of the questions? I reordered them from most common for first owners to something they might ask later on down the road. Please double check my grammer, wording, info ect.. too. I will try y best to read it over many times to get it just right
I want to make sure this is good to go before I request it to be made a sticking under the FAQ section or on the main section. Be harsh, I want this to be pretty dead on.
*Pandinus imperator: 
Questions & Answers​*
*Q:* _Do Emperor Scorpions smell? Will they stink up my entire room?_
*A:* No, the do not have a body “odor”. Though, the cage might give off a very light musky smell from the moisture and high humidity. The smell if any would not make it anywhere else but the tank. Dead scorpions do smell rank  

*Q:* _Would a 5-gallon aquarium fish tank work for a single adult Emperor Scorpion?_
*A:* Yes, this is a fine sized tank for one adult. I recommend 3.5-5gals per Emperor Scorpion.

*Q:* _Glass terrariums or plastic terrariums? Which would you recommend; Why?_
*A:* Again, as heat sources its personal preference. When it comes to limited space and stack-ability I’d recommend plastic sterilite containers with the correct amount of proper sized holes drilled. For more of a show piece and for a communal setup I would recommend a glass fish tank. It looks nice and you have lots of room for décor.

*Q:* _Do they need a water bowl? If so what size?_
*A:* Yes, Emperors drink a lot of water and require a bowl be present in the tank. The size of the water dish/bowl should be relative to the size of the scorpion. If it’s a 2nd instar you should use small bottle cap. Adults need a wide shallow ½” to ¾” deep water bowl. You can add rock pebbles to the bowl to make sure it can get out.

*Q:* _What is the best feeder insect?_
*A:* I would personally say that for any growing collection that roaches would be the absolute best choice. They have a very high meat to shell ration and all around great for your scorpion. They are relatively cheap (about $15 a year to feed on high protein dog food and scraps) and are great when you establish a colony for an endless food source. They have no smell, don’t bite, jump, and there is no risk of harming your scorpion. Crickets would be the next best thing. Super worms should be given as fatty treats not to be used as the main feeder, meal worms are less fatty but still much more so than most other feeders. Here is an analysis of the most common feeders and their make up.
I was given permission from Dexter & Debbie of www.doubleds.org to use their data.
Taken from http://doubleds.org/contactus.html
Moisture |  Protein |  Fat |  Fiber |  Ash  
B. Laterallis        63.63% |  36.5% |  5.31% |    2.19% |  1.95% | 

B. Dubia                |       61.18% |  35.6% |  6.75% |  3.25% |  2.01%

Meal worms        58.74% |  21.0% |  15.52% |  2.01% |  1.18%

Crickets                 71.96% |  18.5% |  6.26% |  2.09% |  1.29%

G. Portentosa     64.09% |  26.7% |  5.05% |  5.62% |  1.37%

*Q:* _What humidity and temperature should I keep my scorpion at?_
*A:* The RH (Relative Humidity) should be 80-90%. If the substrate is moist enough that it holds its shape when you squeeze it very tightly and has a few drips of water come out, then there is no need for a hydrometer as long as it stays like that. The temperature gradient should be cool low 80’s on one side of the tank and high 80’s on the other. 86F is a perfect temperature for the hot side; 88F would be fine as well.

*Q:* _What substrate should I use?_
*A:* Coconut fiber substrate is the best. A few brands who make it are Eco Earth & ZooMed. Peat moss with NO fertilizer or plant food additives, just 100% peat moss is another great choice.

*Q:* _How much substrate should I use depth wise?_
*A:* I recommend 4”- 6” aka 10.2 cm - 15.2 cm of substrate (Much more if you have the tank for it) which allows them to burrow to any depth needed to help regulate their body’s temperature. I also recommend that you lightly pack the first few layers to make a more stable burrowing substrate.

*Q:* _What heat source is better, heat mat, ceramic heat emitter, or a heat bulb?_
*A:* It all depends on personal preference. Heat mat I think is less efficient and doesn’t give off lots of heat. The preferred heat source would be a ceramic or heat bulb. The ceramic heat emitter is essentially a light bulb without light and more expensive but a great heater (Infrared photons) so a heat bulb (Infrared) is the same thing but with light. 

*Q:* _If I use a heat mat where do I place it?_
*A:* You should place it on the back outside wall of your glass aquarium. Do NOT place it on the bottom unless you enjoy steamed scorpion. If you are using a plastic tank/container you must buy a plastic safe heat mat which you can find in any hermit crab section of a pet store.

*Q:* _How often should you clean the terrarium?_
*A:* Usually ever 2-3 months. Some go much longer, considering coco fiber is pretty cheap there isn’t a real reason not to do it that often.

*Q:* _My Emperor Scorpion is running around trying to climb up the sides/corners of the tank is something wrong?_
*A:* This is normal behavior; they are trying to escape from their tank or just exploring the terrain. The don’t know that there are 4 glass walls preventing this and are seeing if maybe its just a ledge they can get over. Now if it’s running around and appears to be stinging itself or going on it’s back then check the temperature it may be way too hot.

*Q:* _My Emperor Scorpion is not drinking, what should I do?_
*A:* Don’t worry, scorpions drink when they get thirsty just as humans do. They will even bathe in the water bowl given its large enough. Scorpions are most active at night so you might not see them do it.

*Q:* _My Emperor Scorpion isn’t eating! What should I do?_
*A:* Take the prey item out and go watch TV. Usually scorpions will not eat for 5-10 days prior to a molt and should not be given food for 7-10 days after a molt. So if it’s a juvenile or sub-adult it may be only coming up for a molt. The other cause could be it’s just not hungry. You should feed your scorpion 1-2 times a week and 1-2 proper sized crickets each feeding or just one proper sized roach for the size of the scorpion. Don’t forget to remove the prey item after 24 if it is not eaten.

*Q:* _Is my scorpion eating itself?_
*A:* No, you scorpion is merely cleaning itself; arachnids are meticulous cleaners. You might see it with its “stinger” in its mouth or scraping its body. They also will clean their claws, underbelly, and legs. They even bathe in the water bowl from time to time.

*Q:* _My scorpion has been leaving what appear to be cricket parts around the entrance and also in his hide. It had what almost looked like mold on it. What can I do?_
*A:* Spot clean every feeding, checking for any left over prey parts and for any mold that might be growing. Now you can't go digging up the hide or burrow to check. Scorpions usually do not defecate or leave food remains in their hides/burrows. They should give up on their burrow if its get very moldy inside which isn’t common. You can throw in a good handful of isopods aka (Rollie Pollies, Pill Bugs, Woodlouse) they will eat dead remains but they don’t get everything.

*Q:* _Why won’t my Emperor leave its hide or burrow?_
*A:* Around the boards we call Emperor Scorpions “pet holes”. The reason for this: Emperors are pretty inactive and are ambush predators. They lay and wait with their claws barely out of the hide/burrow for some unsuspecting critter to walk right into its claws. They are nocturnal and come out here and there some nights to drink, explore, or to go to the restroom. They also use their burrow to regulate their body’s temperature. If it spends most of its time in the burrow/hide then that generally means its content or happy.

*Q:* _What is this white stuff on the ground in my scorpion’s tank or on my scorpion?_
*A:* If it looks like “white out” then its poo. If it’s fuzzy and appears to have hair then that would be mold from dead remains or mold growing on the poo.

*Q:* _How do I know if my Emperor is a male or female?_
*A:* You can tell by the size of the pectines(the feather looking things). The males would be much thicker and longer than female’s pectines. You can also tell by the shape of the Genital Operculum. The males have an oval shaped Operculum and the females are more rectangular. Here is a link to one of my sexing pictures http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g?t=1198270713

*Q:* _Is my Emperor gravid? _
*A:* If you have witnessed the mating process and have spotted the spermatophore then I would say yes. If your scorpion is an adult female and is very large (fat) and you can see what looks to be small rice colored balls along the sides then those are the embryos.

*Q:* _My scorpion is acting very sluggish and drags its tail along the ground, is there something wrong?_
*A:* Yes, this means 95% of the time that the scorpion is on its last leg and going to pass soon. Also check the tank temperature to make sure its warm. If it is acting just fine and is active and drags it tail here and there it is only defecating.

*Q:* _Can I have more than one Pandinus species or any other tropical scorpion in a mix communal together?_
*A:* No, some have had success with a cross Pandinus species communal and some with H. spinifer. It is not recommended and will most always result in casualties. It hear its easier to have a communal of all females than it is males due to males being very territorial. 

*Q:* _How old is my Emperor?_
*A:* There is absolutely no way of telling unless you have bred and raised them yourself. You can tell if it’s and adult or not by the color of the telson (The bulbous looking thing the stinger is attached to). If it’s white it’s a juvenile, if it’s a milky darker white than it is a sub-adult, if its dark red/brown then it is an adult

*Q:* _Are they mating or fighting? How can I tell?_
*A:* Well, that’s a 50/50. Sometimes they like it rough  
Here is the 2 part video of my adult pair mating and the break up at the end which is fighting. 
Part I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkWK7DK9rLY
Part II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgGIG-nhkDk
Part II is embarrassing considering it was my first time seeing mating and I blew on them to break up the fight once the lost the hold from there Chelicerae. No Spermaphore was found.

*Q:* _Can I put live plants into my scorpion’s tank?_
*A:* Yes, you can add tropical species of plants into you tank to help out with humidity and décor. Only problem is that it give something for your crickets or other insect food for you scorpions to hide and climb on. The second problem would be that you will now require a UV bulb to give light to your plants so that they can photosynthesize. UV rays are not healthy for scorpions if they come in prolonged contact over time with it. However, considering how Emperors aren't to surface active I don’t think this will pose too much of a problem and is something you can do at your own risk so to speak. Also, you mist wash them very well to make sure there are no pesticides or chemicals on the plant. If its a plant that might be harmful if the scorpion ingests from the crickets or other items eating the plant then I wouldn't place it in there obviously.


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## Brian S

Cyris69 said:


> Is this a test!?! Damn it, I'm in my underwear, people are laughing!! **** forgot my #2 pencil!!!


LOLOLOL     

Well, I have to admit I couldnt resist messing with you just once. Hey I was orginally gonna try to stump you alot worse than that but I just couldnt do it .

Cheers!


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## Cyris69

Thanks for sparing me  
That's why I still keep "n00b in training" in my signature. I might have a lot of posts but I know there is an endless amount I still need to learn and understand.


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## Brian S

Cyris69 said:


> Thanks for sparing me
> That's why is still keep "n00b in training" in my signature. I might have a lot of posts but I know there is an endless amount I still need to learn and understand.


I'm a noob as well. Sure I have been doing this for several years now but I am still learning and anyone that stays with this will always try to learn as well or at least they should.

If you stick with this with the zeal you have now you will be the one answering everyone's questions not from what you have read but from your own experience. That makes alot of difference! Believe me! I bet you have read the same stuff I read when I first started doing this. Let me tell you, alot of what I have read on the Net has been proved wrong by me. Dont get me wrong, there is alot of good info floating around but there is alot of mediocre material out there as well.

Since I started doing this, I have seen alot of folks come and go. I hope you are one that sticks with this. There needs to be more out there that loves this silly hobby well enough to take it to the next level. You are fortunate that you started this when you did. I feel like this is the golden age of the hobby as there is alot more species and alot more knowledge now than there was just a few years ago.

Remember, you can be one that is here today or gone tomorrow or you can be one that is involved in taking it to the next level. Its your choice! 

Cheers!


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## Cyris69

To be completely honest, I've been know to go from one thing to another relatively quick. I however have had a strong love for insects and reptiles since as far back as I can remember. I was a crazy little kid living out in the boonies catching everything in sight from spiders, bugs, and snakes. Keeping a lot of them as pets for as long as I could keep them alive 

Beyond computers being my life and future career, I have never shown this much interest or devoted so much time toward anything else. I will strive to be a devoted member of this wonderful hobby and to become a very knowledgeable addition as well. I'm also really looking forward to become a breeder helping bring more captive bred species to the hobby in hope to do my part in protecting the environment and all the critters that live in it.

I have also read too much contradicting material out there and try not to trust a whole lot of what I read unless its from someone I know who has had their fair share of personal experience. That is why I truly appreciate all the scientists involved in this site and all wonderful hobbyists involved as well.

You won't see me leaving the hobby, period. I might recluse here and there but I will always have arachnids in my care maybe not very numerous at times but some at all times.This is not just a hobby but a passion.


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## Cyris69

Ok guys. This will be the final draft. If I can edit stickies I can always fix what might have bbeen missed and add later. I will make the sticky request tomorrow... Well later today


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## Cyris69

Oh, forgot to mention that you guys can post this elsewhere just ask first please and mention me as original writer and add a link it to my arachnoboads profile


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## Duc de Blangis

I have a 5" emp in a ten gallon and am wondering if i could introduce another two approximately 3" emps into the enclosure sucessfully, or is the largeer one likely to try and eat the smaller ones?


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## Xaranx

Really there is no telling, it all comes down to their "personalities".  The smaller ones tend to be more psycho so one of those might be the one to cause problems.  I always recommend keeping like sizes together, so I'd keep those 2 in something else til they get a little bigger.  If you do put them together, you should be aware that the danger isn't they will fight and kill each other, they probably won't.  It's when one of the younger ones molt, the big one might find it hard to pass up a free big meal like that.


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## villarex

my 2 got on great until she got a bit peckish at crimbo and tried to eat him sadly he ended up bleeding to death, so now i only have 1 in the tank at a time. A harsh lesson to learn but i'd never do it again


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## Cyris69

Yup, nothing is truly 'communal'. Just seem to tolerate better than others.

I can't wait for my uber large family emp communal coming next week!! I can't wait to study their behavior patterns, habits, sociablilty all that cool stuff.


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## Crispy Alex

My juvinille emp scorpion's water bowl is slimy. Is it ok?


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## Formerphobe

Crispy Alex said:


> My juvinille emp scorpion's water bowl is slimy. Is it ok?


Wash it.

Reactions: Love 1


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