# Salmon Pink Birdeater owners?



## Anonymity82 (Dec 22, 2011)

I'm just expanding my list of T's that I would like to own one day. I was looking up the care sheets for Lasiodora parahybana and the humidity levels say 60-70%. I don't want to own any who need special care for their humidity. So my questions are, how do you keep the humidity levels where they need to be and basically how do you keep yours? What size tank? How often do you feed it? Thanks for any info!


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## Earth Tiger (Dec 22, 2011)

LPs are just beginner species and they can adapt most settings. At one time I had around 18 juveniles and adults although housing them all gave me headaches and I had to trade many of them for smaller Ts. Just make sure that the tank has enough floor space and give it a water dish as they are very active and as adults they never hide and never burrow. Provide plenty of food and they will thrive. The humidity of my region never falls below 60% so I can't give you comment on the humidity. LPs are one of my all time favorite and you will never find their relentless hunting attitude boring. In fact I like them more than my T. apophysis and T. blondi - I don't judge a T solely by how rare and expensive they are. T. apophysis can be a tad bit chicken sh!t at time and their urticating hairs give me a hard time, but LPs are just some brave and confident Ts that will make you proud.

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## Ultum4Spiderz (Dec 22, 2011)

A little wetter then G rosea... they are very hardy.. I keep it like my B vagans except in a LArger 10gallon tank..
my 5" female LP is only half sized though.. they get 8-10.5" inches  -rumored 12" wild indivuals with NO proof) big spider stores I bet::

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## Anonymity82 (Dec 22, 2011)

Earth Tiger said:


> LPs are just beginner species and they can adapt most settings. At one time I had around 18 juveniles and adults although housing them all gave me headaches and I had to trade many of them for smaller Ts. Just make sure that the tank has enough floor space and give it a water dish as they are very active and as adults they never hide and never burrow. Provide plenty of food and they will thrive. The humidity of my region never falls below 60% so I can't give you comment on the humidity. LPs are one of my all time favorite and you will never find their relentless hunting attitude boring. In fact I like them more than my T. apophysis and T. blondi - I don't judge a T solely by how rare and expensive they are. T. apophysis can be a tad bit chicken sh!t at time and their urticating hairs give me a hard time, but LPs are just some brave and confident Ts that will make you proud.


That's great! I really want to get one. I can't do it right now, but sometime in the near future I really want to. I just really worry about the humidity. I can mist once a week or dampen half the tank. I just don't want mites or mold or even end up having to deal with a bad molt because there isn't enough humidity or too much. I love how they are fast growing too because slings are only 5 bucks! Thanks!


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## le-thomas (Dec 22, 2011)

I've got three slings and i mist them a few times a week. They molt fine in dryish conditions and their humidity requirement, as stated already, isn't really set in stone.


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## yodaxtreme545 (Dec 22, 2011)

Earth Tiger said:


> LPs are just beginner species and they can adapt most settings. At one time I had around 18 juveniles and adults although housing them all gave me headaches and I had to trade many of them for smaller Ts. Just make sure that the tank has enough floor space and give it a water dish as they are very active and as adults they never hide and never burrow. Provide plenty of food and they will thrive. The humidity of my region never falls below 60% so I can't give you comment on the humidity. LPs are one of my all time favorite and you will never find their relentless hunting attitude boring. In fact I like them more than my T. apophysis and T. blondi - I don't judge a T solely by how rare and expensive they are. T. apophysis can be a tad bit chicken sh!t at time and their urticating hairs give me a hard time, but LPs are just some brave and confident Ts that will make you proud.


I wouldn't go as far as saying adults never burrow because my 4" female LP loves to burrow and has made a nice little tunnel system in her tank.


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## Earth Tiger (Dec 22, 2011)

That they are sold at 5 bucks each means they are CB. Unless the T is wild caught or its prey items have mite problems, mites shouldn't be of any concern. And the 60-70% humidity requirement or misting weekly should not be a significant mold promoting factor. As ultum said they are hardy, and your main concern will be providing enough food for them - if you don't feed them pinkies or mice you need to feed the adults bigger inverts like dubia roaches or at least super worms. For me I supplement their diet with prawns and centipedes. Crickets alone can hardly satisfy their big appetites especially after they molt unless you have a constant supply of crickets to feed them. You will have to visit your cricket supplier regularly for a cricket alone diet - if there is no nearby cricket supplier this won't work for LPs. You cannot feed too many tiny crickets to a big T at once as their fangs cant hold too many tiny crickets, or dead crickets are dropped all over the floor and some may be ignored and left to rot. Raising dubia roaches yourself is perhaps the simplest answer but my wife hates roaches so I go with the prawn and centipede route. 

Also they can get injured from falling because they are so active and thus they have a higher risk of falling than the T. blondi. Fill the tank with thicker substrate to reduce the height between the top and the substrate but I guess many hobbyists have covered this topic and you already know it. 

That they are inexpensive not because they are bad Ts - an LP egg sac gives you 1000-2000+ eggs while a T. blondi egg sac has ~50 eggs only and T. blondi are hard to breed. Price alone doesn't tell how great a T is.

---------- Post added 12-23-2011 at 02:51 AM ----------




yodaxtreme545 said:


> I wouldn't go as far as saying adults never burrow because my 4" female LP loves to burrow and has made a nice little tunnel system in her tank.


That's why I emphasized ADULT LPs in my post. LPs temperament change from shy to confident when they matures. At 4" they are very young juveniles and far from being mature. LP slings burrow too and many different species of non-burrowers would burrow when they are young. A confident LP sling wandering around only means easy prey for other predators (or its bigger sisters) in the wild.

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## captmarga (Dec 22, 2011)

yodaxtreme545 said:


> I wouldn't go as far as saying adults never burrow because my 4" female LP loves to burrow and has made a nice little tunnel system in her tank.


Ditto on that with my big female.  The male actually coaxed her out of the burrow during the one (I think successful) breeding attempt.  Right now I'm watching her be a 7" excavating machine...The first six months I owned her, she was a display spider, then she molted and started a burrow after that. 

Marga


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## Earth Tiger (Dec 23, 2011)

captmarga said:


> Ditto on that with my big female.  The male actually coaxed her out of the burrow during the one (I think successful) breeding attempt.  Right now I'm watching her be a 7" excavating machine...The first six months I owned her, she was a display spider, then she molted and started a burrow after that.
> 
> Marga


How do you keep her? Do you put a light source near her tank or the spider room is well lit during daytime? Burrowing adult L. parahybanas... call me ignorant I had never heard this before I was back to this forum and none of my adult LPs burrows. Even my L. parahybana and L. klugi slings stay outside their burrows most of the time.

*Tarantulas are mostly nocturnal* and if we owners are not aware of their basic instincts and go against their needs like keeping them in very bright places, or using a spot light etc above the tank, expect a confident and active non-burrower L. parahybana behaves not naturally like burrowing and appearing shy. There is no such thing as right or wrong in this topic so please don't jump me on that. Some people want to keep their spiders in a bright room with direct sunlight and as pets they need to compromise somehow. 

---------- Post added 12-23-2011 at 07:58 PM ----------

Also what do you guys mean by "burrow"? If you put an artificial hide like a flower pot many non burrowing species would actually hide inside during daytime if your spider room is well lit at the day. But I am most perplexed to hear an adult L. parahybana digs and moves the substrate to make a burrow.


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## Formerphobe (Dec 23, 2011)

I've always kept my LPs so they were aware of daytime vs night, but no direct or artificial light.  They both burrowed as slings and younger juvies, up to about 4+ inches, only coming out to grab a meal.  They gradually started spending more time topside between the 4 - 6" size.  Neither has burrowed, nor used their hides much (except to sit on top of), since their last rehousing at ~6" (19 months of age).

Both of mine began being very defensive at ~3.0", the male more than the female.  (I would sooner attempt to handle my H. livs than my LPs... and I don't make a practice of handling at all.)

When provided a moisture gradient, both of mine preferred the dry side of the enclosure.  They are on a combination coconut coir/peat substrate with a large water bowl.

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## vickywild (Dec 23, 2011)

A little wetter then G.Rosea? I've kept rosies for 8 years and never wet their sub.

My LP is only a wee babe atm though, and I am spraying the side kof the enclosure once every 3 days.

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## Earth Tiger (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks for the sharing FormerPhobe. I have been alone to suggest that adult LPs do not burrow until you shared your experience. 

I also found that adult LPs exhibit a wide degree of temperament differences. Some of my LPs are actually docile and a bit nervous only and I had no risk of handling them (although I don't handle any T too often too). 

In general males are more aggressive and nervous, in fact I found nearly all male arachnids are more aggressive than the females. My male scorpions and sun spiders are more aggressive too.


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## ijmccollum (Dec 23, 2011)

I have both L. parahybana and klugi -- they came in as .25" slings.  The LP is still burrowing and stays hid for the most part and is currently at ~0.75".  The Klugi just molted and I would say it is at ~+1.0" and has gotten somewhat bolder -- it's hanging around on top of the substrate.  i've handled both for very short periods - I figure I won't be able to do this as they get bigger because they may be too intimidating - and the parahybana seems calmer than the klugi.  I think the klugi may grow up to be a beast!


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## Anonymity82 (Dec 23, 2011)

Earth Tiger said:


> That they are sold at 5 bucks each means they are CB. Unless the T is wild caught or its prey items have mite problems, mites shouldn't be of any concern. And the 60-70% humidity requirement or misting weekly should not be a significant mold promoting factor. As ultum said they are hardy, and your main concern will be providing enough food for them - if you don't feed them pinkies or mice you need to feed the adults bigger inverts like dubia roaches or at least super worms. For me I supplement their diet with prawns and centipedes. Crickets alone can hardly satisfy their big appetites especially after they molt unless you have a constant supply of crickets to feed them. You will have to visit your cricket supplier regularly for a cricket alone diet - if there is no nearby cricket supplier this won't work for LPs. You cannot feed too many tiny crickets to a big T at once as their fangs cant hold too many tiny crickets, or dead crickets are dropped all over the floor and some may be ignored and left to rot. Raising dubia roaches yourself is perhaps the simplest answer but my wife hates roaches so I go with the prawn and centipede route.
> 
> Also they can get injured from falling because they are so active and thus they have a higher risk of falling than the T. blondi. Fill the tank with thicker substrate to reduce the height between the top and the substrate but I guess many hobbyists have covered this topic and you already know it.
> 
> ...


THanks! I have read some information about them, but I was uncertain how to keep a 60-70% humidity levels. Is  20 gal long large enough for an adult?


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## Earth Tiger (Dec 23, 2011)

May I know what the humidity level of your environment is? A 10 gallon tank is enough IMO, but a bigger tank is certainly better. Keep in mind that floor space is more important than the height, and filling the tank with enough substrate to reduce the height and thus the risk of falling is important. LPs are active and fall quite frequently. 

You don't need to worry about the tank size at this moment until it really gets big, but that won't take too long LOL.


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## Stan Schultz (Dec 23, 2011)

njnolan1 said:


> I'm just expanding my list of T's that I would like to own one day. I was looking up the care sheets for Lasiodora parahybana and the humidity levels say 60-70%. I don't want to own any who need special care for their humidity. So my questions are, how do you keep the humidity levels where they need to be and basically how do you keep yours? What size tank? How often do you feed it? Thanks for any info!


OMG! You aren't reading those care sheets are you? *ALL* care sheets tell you to keep almost *ALL* tarantulas at 60-70% rH! And none of those care sheets know what they're talking about! They can't even give you a good definition of relative humidity! Don't believe anything those care sheets tell you unless you confirm it here first. Ditto for pet shops.

If you're getting an LP with a diagonal leg span (DLS) of less than about 2" (5 cm) keep it as any other baby tarantula, i.e., relatively closed container with slightly damp substrate.

Three inch (7.5 cm) or larger DLS: Keep it the same way you would a _Brachypelma albopilosum_ (curlyhair) which it will resemble a lot, i.e., as an arid or semi-arid species.

During that intermediate phase of about 2 molts you should be gradually allowing the substrate to dry out. Also, during this phase and forever after, supply it a water dish.

Note carefully that as adults (and as with most other tarantulas) humidity is not a big issue. Don't stress over it. If you have any doubts, keep the substrate dry and cover the open parts of the cage with plastic food wrap to hold in a little of the humidity from the water dish.

As adults they need a larger cage. A floor space measuring about 2' X 3' (60 X 90 cm) isn't too big. But, the distance between the top of the substrate and the top of the cage should never exceed their DLS or 1.5 X their DLS at maximum!

These are huge spiders when adult. To reach their full potential in size they need to be fed *LOTS* as they grow. They're real garbage cans!

Contrary to popular opinion, these are really fairly docile as adults providing that you begin to gently handle them at about the 3" DLS stage. Once they become accustomed to the hand of man, and you become accustomed to handling a spider the size of your face, "everything's going to be all right."

 Enjoy your *HUGE* little handful!

Reactions: Agree 2


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## captmarga (Dec 23, 2011)

Earth Tiger said:


> How do you keep her? Do you put a light source near her tank or the spider room is well lit during daytime? Burrowing adult L. parahybanas... call me ignorant I had never heard this before I was back to this forum and none of my adult LPs burrows. Even my L. parahybana and L. klugi slings stay outside their burrows most of the time.
> 
> *Tarantulas are mostly nocturnal* and if we owners are not aware of their basic instincts and go against their needs like keeping them in very bright places, or using a spot light etc above the tank, expect a confident and active non-burrower L. parahybana behaves not naturally like burrowing and appearing shy. There is no such thing as right or wrong in this topic so please don't jump me on that. Some people want to keep their spiders in a bright room with direct sunlight and as pets they need to compromise somehow.
> 
> ...


She's in a 10-gallon.  She has a hide and uses it.  She also sits on top of it, out in the open, and down in the burrow.  Her dank is mostly in shadow, there is no direct light on her at all.  I'm looking at her right now packing down another fangful of dirt she just brought up for the depths.  I've owned her for over a year, and the burrowing started with the molt.  She could not have burrowed in what she was kept on before I got her... gravel with a log.  

Marga


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## Formerphobe (Dec 23, 2011)

> I also found that adult LPs exhibit a wide degree of temperament differences. Some of my LPs are actually docile and a bit nervous only and I had no risk of handling them (although I don't handle any T too often too).


I think this is probably true of any species.



> In general males are more aggressive and nervous, in fact I found nearly all male arachnids are more aggressive than the females. My male scorpions and sun spiders are more aggressive too.


I will tuck this tidbit of info away for safe keeping.    With my LPs the male has been more consistently defensive.  He is also due to molt, so I'll see if his behavior alters any post-molt.  The female did seem to be less reactive after her last molt.  

The only scorpions I've kept are P. imperator.  The boys are weenies...


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## Anonymity82 (Dec 23, 2011)

Earth Tiger said:


> May I know what the humidity level of your environment is? A 10 gallon tank is enough IMO, but a bigger tank is certainly better. Keep in mind that floor space is more important than the height, and filling the tank with enough substrate to reduce the height and thus the risk of falling is important. LPs are active and fall quite frequently.
> 
> You don't need to worry about the tank size at this moment until it really gets big, but that won't take too long LOL.


Yes, I read they mature quickly, within a 2 or 3 years. Thanks for the helpful info!

---------- Post added 12-23-2011 at 11:19 PM ----------




Earth Tiger said:


> May I know what the humidity level of your environment is? A 10 gallon tank is enough IMO, but a bigger tank is certainly better. Keep in mind that floor space is more important than the height, and filling the tank with enough substrate to reduce the height and thus the risk of falling is important. LPs are active and fall quite frequently.
> 
> You don't need to worry about the tank size at this moment until it really gets big, but that won't take too long LOL.


I have no idea on how humid my home is. It's little dry I would guess because my sinuses are dry but other than that I really can't say.

---------- Post added 12-23-2011 at 11:23 PM ----------




Pikaia said:


> OMG! You aren't reading those care sheets are you? *ALL* care sheets tell you to keep almost *ALL* tarantulas at 60-70% rH! And none of those care sheets know what they're talking about! They can't even give you a good definition of relative humidity! Don't believe anything those care sheets tell you unless you confirm it here first. Ditto for pet shops.
> 
> If you're getting an LP with a diagonal leg span (DLS) of less than about 2" (5 cm) keep it as any other baby tarantula, i.e., relatively closed container with slightly damp substrate.
> 
> ...


Wow, great information! Thanks!!


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## Ultum4Spiderz (Dec 24, 2011)

males 2-3 yrs... females 3.5-5 years. .. my 4.5-5" female is aprox 3+ yrs old.. was 2" inches when I got it 2 yrs ago
I only heat my Ts during wintertime though,.,. norm 73 degrees -78 summer..
Temps & feeding greatly affect growth.. Slower feeding in males typically means a way longer life..


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## jayefbe (Dec 24, 2011)

Ultum4Spiderz said:


> males 2-3 yrs... females 3.5-5 years. .. my 4.5-5" female is aprox 3+ yrs old.. was 2" inches when I got it 2 yrs ago
> I only heat my Ts during wintertime though,.,. norm 73 degrees -78 summer..
> Temps & feeding greatly affect growth.. Slower feeding in males typically means a way longer life..


2-3" of growth for an Lp in 2 years? That's Aphonopelma slow. Were you maintenance feeding?

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## Formerphobe (Dec 24, 2011)

> 2-3" of growth for an Lp in 2 years? That's Aphonopelma slow.


Well, maybe not Aphonopelma slow, but pretty slow.  My immature LPs (sac mates - one male, one female) have grown from 0.25 inches to 6+ inches over the last 20 months.  They get no supplemental heat, winter temps avg ~68F unless the power goes out...  I don't power feed.


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## Ultum4Spiderz (Dec 25, 2011)

jayefbe said:


> 2-3" of growth for an Lp in 2 years? That's Aphonopelma slow. Were you maintenance feeding?


actualy she just wasnt a big eater... & for a few months I fed my Ts every 2 weeks I was low on cash
Now I got my roach colony feed once a week
The Male ate & grew way faster


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## Zheirg (Jan 9, 2016)

Guys, i have a question. Why is it my LP sling is so skittish, what is the factor or cause of it because everytime  I lifted her enclosure she moves a lot and walk like a soldier hehehe, is that normal or stress? Also she is not a good eater... She also not eating for 6 days and my guess
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
 she is in premolt state, what do u think guys. Can you guys give me an advice or recommendation for taking care of my LP sling. Also she is not eating by then about 17 days ( from december 17, 2015 to January 3, 2016)and i think she is only fasting without any reason. January 4,2016 she ate 1 small lat and 1 small superworm, that day is the last day she ate until now. Is she is in a premolt or anything? I will upload her photos. Any Comments. Thank you guys God Bless...


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## Cutler (Jan 9, 2016)

Hi Zheirg,

I have only been involved in the hobby for around 18 months so I'm not in a position to comprehensively answer your question. However, I do own a Salmon Pink, which I have successfully raised from a spiderling and can offer you some observations base on my own experience with this species.

My Salmon Pink has always, and continues to exhibit periodic bursts of nervousness when disturbed. But at other times seems perfectly content and calm, so I would say this behaviour is normal. In fact, all my Tarantulas at some point or another display erratic movement regardless of species.

With regard to eating I find my Salmon Pink particularly gluttonous and he will only abstain from food upon entering a pre-moult stage. 

In reference to humidity and Temperature I have found this particular species very hardy and appears to thrive in most conditions. In my personal experience I have found storing the enclosure in a very low light environment at a temperature of around 75 degrees very successful in caring for these Tarantulas.

Varying food sources has also yielded notable differences in healthy eating patterns and successful moults. Salmon Pinks also tend to consume anything placed in front of them, so I alternate between Roaches, meal worms and the occasional Locust, all of which are readily devoured.

Hope this helps in some minor way.


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## Chris11 (Jan 9, 2016)

Zheirg said:


> View attachment 204344
> View attachment 204345
> View attachment 204346
> 
> ...


Thats a lot of food to be worried about it not eating for 5 days... Try in a week and im sure your spider will eat

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Zheirg (Jan 9, 2016)

Cutler said:


> Hi Zheirg,
> 
> I have only been involved in the hobby for around 18 months so I'm not in a position to comprehensively answer your question. However, I do own a Salmon Pink, which I have successfully raised from a spiderling and can offer you some observations base on my own experience with this species.
> 
> ...


Thank you sir for the wonderful answers... just comment here for more suggestion in taking care of my LP sling. thnx a lot


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## Zheirg (Jan 9, 2016)

Chris11 said:


> Thats a lot of food to be worried about it not eating for 5 days... Try in a week and im sure your spider will eat


Thank you sir


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## Zheirg (Jan 9, 2016)

Cutler said:


> Hi Zheirg,
> 
> I have only been involved in the hobby for around 18 months so I'm not in a position to comprehensively answer your question. However, I do own a Salmon Pink, which I have successfully raised from a spiderling and can offer you some observations base on my own experience with this species.
> 
> ...


How about the enclosure and the best substrate to be use on my LP sling?


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## Cutler (Jan 9, 2016)

Zheirg said:


> Thank you sir for the wonderful answers... just comment here for more suggestion in taking care of my LP sling. thnx a lot


You are very welcome. I would also add that you enclosure seems to exclude a hiding place for the Tarantula, such as half a flower pot or one of the commercial mouldings you can purchase from pet stores. I find my Salmon Pink likes privacy, especially after capturing its prey. She tends to immediately retreat under the pot. So perhaps the addition of a hiding place will provide a less stressful environment and encourage less erratic behaviour.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Cutler (Jan 9, 2016)

Zheirg said:


> How about the enclosure and the best substrate to be use on my LP sling?


I personally use potting soil mixed with Vermiculite, it has proved a successful combination for raising all my Tarantulas. You just have to be sure that the soil is free from additives, such as pesticides or chemical food pellets. If you are not sure, side with caution and purchase one of the specifically marketed Tarantula substrates.

The enclosure I use is 23 litre glass aquarium that use to house my fish.


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## Chris11 (Jan 9, 2016)

Glass is alright.... but i prefer plastic. You can drill cross ventilation holes that i feel makes spiders more comfortable and active. And if you use a pot or half-pot make sure the bottom is cut out to provide an extra escape option if its needed/wanted by the spider (fossorial species this does not apply). Vermiculite IMO is a waste of money on anything besides species dependant on humidity, and is of no use whatsoever, and actually has the possibility (even though small) to make an arid or semi arid species uncomfortable due to its water retention. I use either just top soil, peat moss, a mixture of both, or both with vermiculite depending on species requirements.
Youre welcome, Zheirg!


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## Cutler (Jan 9, 2016)

Chris11 said:


> Glass is alright.... but i prefer plastic. You can drill cross ventilation holes that i feel makes spiders more comfortable and active. And if you use a pot or half-pot make sure the bottom is cut out to provide an extra escape option if its needed/wanted by the spider (fossorial species this does not apply). Vermiculite IMO is a waste of money on anything besides species dependant on humidity, and is of no use whatsoever, and actually has the possibility (even though small) to make an arid or semi arid species uncomfortable due to its water retention. I use either just top soil, peat moss, a mixture of both, or both with vermiculite depending on species requirements.
> Youre welcome, Zheirg!


Thank you Chris for the informative response. I have only been involved in the hobby for 18 months so I'm still in the embryonic stages of learning about this incredible hobby.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Chris11 (Jan 9, 2016)

Youre also welcome, Cutler!


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## beaker41 (Jan 10, 2016)

I've got a mature female at about 7", currently rolling her eggsac all over her 10 gallon tank. The only t's i put in anything larger are my adult t. Stirmi's . As to moisture lps aren't particularly sensitive, they will do fine dry or wet, hot or cool. The biggest factor in their growth rate is the frequency of feeding , once a week will get you to 1.5" in about 18 mo, 3x a week will get to 2.5" in the same time.


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## gottarantulas (Jan 10, 2016)

Don't over think the husbandry, as a species, LP's are quite hardy. I personally use jungle mix as a substrate, half of the enclosure is relatively damp with the other half completely dry. I have found, as is the case with L.difficilis and L.klugi that their growth rate is definitively food and supplemental heat dependent.


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## Zheirg (Jan 10, 2016)

Cutler said:


> You are very welcome. I would also add that you enclosure seems to exclude a hiding place for the Tarantula, such as half a flower pot or one of the commercial mouldings you can purchase from pet stores. I find my Salmon Pink likes privacy, especially after capturing its prey. She tends to immediately retreat under the pot. So perhaps the addition of a hiding place will provide a less stressful environment and encourage less erratic behaviour.


I already put a hiding place before but she doesn't like it, she did not used that so i better to take it out.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Zheirg (Jan 10, 2016)

T


Chris11 said:


> Glass is alright.... but i prefer plastic. You can drill cross ventilation holes that i feel makes spiders more comfortable and active. And if you use a pot or half-pot make sure the bottom is cut out to provide an extra escape option if its needed/wanted by the spider (fossorial species this does not apply). Vermiculite IMO is a waste of money on anything besides species dependant on humidity, and is of no use whatsoever, and actually has the possibility (even though small) to make an arid or semi arid species uncomfortable due to its water retention. I use either just top soil, peat moss, a mixture of both, or both with vermiculite depending on species requirements.
> Youre welcome, Zheirg!


Thanks a lot.


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## cold blood (Jan 10, 2016)

Zheirg said:


> I already put a hiding place before but she doesn't like it, she did not used that so i better to take it out.


Put it back in. A hide should always be made available, whether its actively used or not.

Your lp is NOT in pre-molt.   The meals you are feeding are just large meals for your small t (and that's just fine), and as a result, you will not need to feed nearly as often.  If you want to feed more often, just feed smaller prey, but you certainly do not need to if its taking the larger prey.

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## Zheirg (Jan 10, 2016)

cold blood said:


> Put it back in. A hide should always be made available, whether its actively used or not.
> 
> Your lp is NOT in pre-molt.   The meals you are feeding are just large meals for your small t (and that's just fine), and as a result, you will not need to feed nearly as often.  If you want to feed more often, just feed smaller prey, but you certainly do not need to if its taking the larger prey.


Ok sir, Thank you...


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## Poec54 (Jan 10, 2016)

What's in the bottom of the cage, rocks?  Those are spider killers.  Spiders slip from the sides and hard objects  can split their abdomens.  Put them, and the water bowl, in the center.  The cage needs more substrate, I use bagged top soil that's $1.50 for a 40 lb bag.  I'd also put in some plastic plants so it doesn't look so institutional; I use Zoo Med vining types; $5 for a large bag, cut to fit.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## Zheirg (Jan 10, 2016)

Poec54 said:


> What's in the bottom of the cage, rocks?  Those are spider killers.  Spiders slip from the sides and hard objects  can split their abdomens.  Put them, and the water bowl, in the center.  The cage needs more substrate, I use bagged top soil that's $1.50 for a 40 lb bag.  I'd also put in some plastic plants so it doesn't look so institutional; I use Zoo Med vining types; $5 for a large bag, cut to fit.


thank you so much...


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## G. pulchra (Jan 10, 2016)

Earth Tiger said:


> That they are sold at 5 bucks each means they are CB. Unless the T is wild caught or its prey items have mite problems, mites shouldn't be of any concern. And the 60-70% humidity requirement or misting weekly should not be a significant mold promoting factor. As ultum said they are hardy, and your main concern will be providing enough food for them - if you don't feed them pinkies or mice you need to feed the adults bigger inverts like dubia roaches or at least super worms. For me I supplement their diet with prawns and centipedes. Crickets alone can hardly satisfy their big appetites especially after they molt unless you have a constant supply of crickets to feed them. You will have to visit your cricket supplier regularly for a cricket alone diet - if there is no nearby cricket supplier this won't work for LPs. You cannot feed too many tiny crickets to a big T at once as their fangs cant hold too many tiny crickets, or dead crickets are dropped all over the floor and some may be ignored and left to rot. Raising dubia roaches yourself is perhaps the simplest answer but my wife hates roaches so I go with the *prawn* and centipede route.
> 
> Also they can get injured from falling because they are so active and thus they have a higher risk of falling than the T. blondi. Fill the tank with thicker substrate to reduce the height between the top and the substrate but I guess many hobbyists have covered this topic and you already know it.
> 
> ...


How do you feed prawns?


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## Ghost Dragon (Jan 11, 2016)

Anonymity82 said:


> I'm just expanding my list of T's that I would like to own one day. I was looking up the care sheets for Lasiodora parahybana and the humidity levels say 60-70%. I don't want to own any who need special care for their humidity. So my questions are, how do you keep the humidity levels where they need to be and basically how do you keep yours? What size tank? How often do you feed it? Thanks for any info!


I don't wet the substrate for mine either, just a large water dish.  Don't worry about the humidity, LP is a very hardy species, they will get use to whatever you are comfortable with.  I keep my big girl in the 20 gallon tank I bought with her, and feed her 6 or so crickets once a week.
They are amazing when they get to full size.  My MF is a whopping 8.25", and it's very cool watching a T that big lumber around.


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## Poec54 (Jan 11, 2016)

Earth Tiger said:


> Unless the T is wild caught or its prey items have mite problems, mites shouldn't be of any concern.


 
I've owned and cared for hundreds of w/c tarantulas over the past 4 decades, and have almost never seen mites on any of them.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## KnifingPanda (Jan 19, 2016)

Earth Tiger said:


> LPs are just beginner species and they can adapt most settings. At one time I had around 18 juveniles and adults although housing them all gave me headaches and I had to trade many of them for smaller Ts. Just make sure that the tank has enough floor space and give it a water dish as they are very active and as adults they never hide and never burrow. Provide plenty of food and they will thrive. The humidity of my region never falls below 60% so I can't give you comment on the humidity. LPs are one of my all time favorite and you will never find their relentless hunting attitude boring. In fact I like them more than my T. apophysis and T. blondi - I don't judge a T solely by how rare and expensive they are. T. apophysis can be a tad bit chicken sh!t at time and their urticating hairs give me a hard time, but LPs are just some brave and confident Ts that will make you proud.


I can't help but agree with you on their hunting attitude, I fed my LP sling the other day, she was on the glass, cricket landed in the middle of her enclosure and she literally jumped off the glass and on to the cricket, she pounced on the cricket as if she was a Jaguar pouncing from a tree on to its prey. Was an amazing thing to witness.


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## mmfh (Jan 19, 2016)

I've had mine since it was 1/2". As a baby it burrowed. Now as a 3" it has an extensive burrow but is never in it unless it is hiding from me, doing maintenance. It has a hide that I've seen it in, an old fish food container, the burrow is beneath it. In all honesty I keep it bone dry with a 2" water dish that I flood when I fill it up. Mine eats great and has never had a problem molting. Great species.


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## Zheirg (Jan 21, 2016)

My LP sling molted yesterday...


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## nunoskii (Jan 21, 2016)

G. pulchra said:


> How do you feed prawns?


Now I've never fed prawns but, I've fed my T Stirmi and LP a couple of silversides in the past. I just thawed it out, and once it was completely thawed I tong fed it to my T. They took it without hesitation. Now I'm kind of interested in feeding prawns. Lol


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## Reid0210 (Feb 20, 2016)

cold blood said:


> Put it back in. A hide should always be made available, whether its actively used or not.
> 
> Your lp is NOT in pre-molt.   The meals you are feeding are just large meals for your small t (and that's just fine), and as a result, you will not need to feed nearly as often.  If you want to feed more often, just feed smaller prey, but you certainly do not need to if its taking the larger prey.


It sure looks like it's in premolt. Look at that black butt. A couple of mine are in premolt now and they look exactly like that. Abdomen will turn black on the bald spots.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Reid0210 (Feb 20, 2016)

Man I was way too late on that post


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## Haksilence (Feb 20, 2016)

Definitely replace the hide. My LP is similar in size, maybe a molt or two ahead, and uses his hide regularly. Not so much to hide, but just chills in there and has excavated quite a bit underneath it. I mist the enclosure one good time a week, or two lighter times a week. I play it by ear. 

Once I swapped from keeping it dry to misting occasionally I saw much increased activity and energy from the specimen. So I feel this is the way to go. 
But any terrestrial tarantula housed in a enclosure large enough to have a hide NEED to have a hide available. If a half log is too large then you can use half a toilet paper tube, although I don't recommend a cardboard hide since the species likes it a bit more humid/ wet. It tends to hold moisture too much. If you do go with a toilet paper tube, only mist the opposite side on the enclosure so that no moisture can wick into the cardboard.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Haksilence (Feb 20, 2016)

Important note: 
Sone hobbyists are very against missing for damn near all species. I'm simply sharing the experience I've seen with my lp, and only every considered missing since my areas is very dry this time of year and my apartments air conditioner is constantly running keeping the place at essentially 0 humidity so the time.


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