# Cobalt blue.



## Reinie 521 (Jun 24, 2013)

Hi everyone,

A Cobalt blue Tarantula has caught my eye.

I would love to get me one, but I have heard that they are extremely difficult to care for.

Is there someone who can please send me a pic of a cobalt blue sling and some hints to care for them?

also what is the difference between a cobalt blue and a Singapore blue?

please advise.

thank you a lot.


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## Poec54 (Jun 24, 2013)

Lividum isn't hard to care for, they need the same set up as most other Asian terrestrials.  Deep moist (but not soggy) substrate, high humidity, & moderate ventilation.  They're known for staying in their retreats a lot, but tend to come out at night when they're hungry.


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## nicolevins (Jun 24, 2013)

There's a very informative video made by a member here that I watched recently. I think it was spiderengineer who uploaded it(if I got your name wrong, I'm sorry man!) Here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyjKIQmluF0

Assuming you are talking about Haplopelma lividum - I personally keep my 2cm sling in a vial with 4" of Exo Terra plantation soil, about 75-80% humidity. I keep the humidity by adding damp substrate to begin with, NOT by misting, which I believe is often done wrong and is rather useless and probably stressful. When I rehouse I plan to put it into an enclosure with 8"+ of substrate. They are a burrowing/tropical species and they like a LOT of substrate to burrow. Generally keepers make a burrow for them, or at least start one. Cross ventilation is good. Some will take to it, others will not.Ensure you pack down the substrate nice and tight to avoid the burrow collapsing. They are a defensive Old World species, so their first defensive mechanism is generally to bite. Their bite is medically significant, I believe. They are extremely fast. For these reasons, they're not recommended for novices. From my short experience with this species, mine will generally retreat very quickly to it's burrow when I so much as touch the enclosure. They can sometimes be nervous or skittish. They seem to have a good feeding response, which is always cool to watch! They are known to be "pet holes". I have seen some members on here that they only see their H. lividum once or twice a year but I see mine every evening at the opening of it's burrow, probably looking for food I imagine. I do believe they are fast growers. If I were you, I'd probably expect to not see it much. Other than deep substrate, humidity and giving it some privacy I don't really think there is too much more to it. They are a beautiful species but do NOT underestimate their speed. 

Edit- got there before me!


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## prairiepanda (Jun 24, 2013)

Reinie 521 said:


> also what is the difference between a cobalt blue and a Singapore blue?
> 
> please advise.
> 
> thank you a lot.


They are completely different species. Cobalt blue is Haplopelma lividum, a burrowing species, and Singapore blue is Lampropelma violaceps, an arboreal, so care for each of them is significantly different. They also look entirely different.

If you get an H lividum, I would recommend a tall narrow enosure full of substrate so that you can see its burrow easily. Otherwise it will be a pet hole. I have a C elegans sling in a Tic Tac container for this same reason.

Reactions: Like 1


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## MarkmD (Jun 24, 2013)

H,Lividum are quite easy to care for, as said lots of substrate and good ventilation, once it's settled in then don't expect to see it to often, sometimes at night or possibly feet during the day if lucky, they are very fast so keep your hands out lol.


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## 3skulls (Jun 24, 2013)

H. lividum on the right. 






If I'm quite when I go in the room, most of the time its hanging out in the web canopy up top. 

Same advice as above. Deep substrate, I like to keep mine a little more damp toward the bottom drier up top. 

This is my first Haplopelma so I'm interested in seeing more setups. 

If I catch mine out I snap a pic for you.


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## Storm76 (Jun 24, 2013)

6th tarantula...H. lividum...think you're ready for that, yet? Don't forget, at some point you'll probably have to rehouse or interact with the T on some level...

Just make sure you don't get in over your head...

Reactions: Like 3


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## Akai (Jun 24, 2013)

Man I gotta tell you.  Out of all my T's.... rehousing Haplopelmas can be heart stopping.  These evil things WILL run up your tongs more then any T I've ever dealt with.  They are fearless in defending their burrow.   You have been warned.  lol

Reactions: Like 4


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## Poec54 (Jun 24, 2013)

Akai said:


> Man I gotta tell you.  Out of all my T's.... rehousing Haplopelmas can be heart stopping.  These evil things WILL run up your tongs more then any T I've ever dealt with.  They are fearless in defending their burrow.   You have been warned.  lol


+1.  They are 'spirited.'


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## paassatt (Jun 24, 2013)

Akai said:


> Man I gotta tell you.  Out of all my T's.... rehousing Haplopelmas can be heart stopping.  These evil things WILL run up your tongs more then any T I've ever dealt with.  They are fearless in defending their burrow.   You have been warned.  lol


I've never once had my H. lividum run up my tongs while rehousing her. 4 times now with no problems at all.


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## Akai (Jun 24, 2013)

Honestly I think Lividum's are the calmest of the Haplopelmas.  Vonwirthi's, Longipes and Hainanum are pretty evil.  lol


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## freedumbdclxvi (Jun 24, 2013)

I find all Haplopelmas to be fairly easy to work with.  I use their defensive behavior to my advantage when rehousing or doing maintenance.

Edit:  just wanted to note my comment was more for those with Haplos already and not the OP.  I didn't find them easy when I first started with them.

OP, I would go with a NW burrower like Ephebopus before delving in to Haplopelma.

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## Curious jay (Jun 24, 2013)

Whilst H. Lividum is a looker, I can't help but notice your 'new to the hobby' thread a few links down....


You only have experience with a couple of NW slings, I'd advise against jumping into an OW with medically significant venom. Try getting some knowledge from research.

The fact your asking the difference between cobalt blue and a Singapore blue, tells me you ain't ready.

Reactions: Like 6


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## spiderengineer (Jun 24, 2013)

Reinie 521 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> A Cobalt blue Tarantula has caught my eye.


they are beautiful aren't they? the problem is when people see a pic of how gorgeous they don't understand these are not display species and to properly set them up you will just have a tank full of dirt for most of the day and when they sun comes down you will see some legs maybe half of their body.

Reactions: Like 3


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## macbaffo (Jun 24, 2013)

nicolevins said:


> I keep the humidity by adding damp substrate to begin with, NOT by misting,


With this method, how much does it take you to fill an enclosure with substrate? How many often do you rehouse? :?


I side with what spiderengineer said. They are mostly petholes, beautiful but petholes. Since you started recently with Ts i suggest you to wait a bit before buying it. Not because of the speed or its mood (you could buy a 2-3FH sling to get used to it), but because it's hard to tell if your spider is healthy if you don't see it. Or at least in the beginning.


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## Alltheworld601 (Jun 24, 2013)

prairiepanda said:


> They are completely different species. Cobalt blue is Haplopelma lividum, a burrowing species, and Singapore blue is Lampropelma violaceps, an arboreal, so care for each of them is significantly different. They also look entirely different.
> 
> If you get an H lividum, I would recommend a tall narrow enosure full of substrate so that you can see its burrow easily. Otherwise it will be a pet hole. I have a C elegans sling in a Tic Tac container for this same reason.


Tic Tac container, that's absolutely brilliant!!

To the OP.. I noticed a post further down the board that said you were new to the hobby.  Not to say you can't hack it, but please read a little more before you bring home a lividum.  A lot of people get one T and want to jump in, and that's great, most of us here did the same, but H. lividum are fast and feisty and have a nasty bite.  Plus they stay in their holes a lot and you may be discouraged that you can't see it.  

other than that, Haplopelma in general are pretty easy to care for.  Just don't touch it, and you'll be fine!  Use caution, always have a catch cup nearby if you have to open the enclosure or rehouse it...you know.  Be respectful.  And read, read, read.  It always makes me nervous when someone says they're new and they want a medically significant species, but its not that it can't be done, you just gotta be extra vigilant about maintenance and housing and keep all interaction to a minimum.  

And don't touch it.  

Also, don't touch it.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## Poec54 (Jun 24, 2013)

Alltheworld601 said:


> Also, don't touch it.


And that's the problem.  The public sees Brachypelma being handled and then want the pretty blue one so they can handle it too.  A 'spider is a spider' to them.  Too many people enter the hobby with the expectation of handling their spider.  These are not animals to cuddle with.

Reactions: Like 5


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## Reinie 521 (Jun 25, 2013)

Hi everyone.

Thank you so much for all the help.

I really appreciate all the advise.

I will do some more research and then maybe get me a cobalt blue.

With people like you who can go wrong =)!!!!


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## Mike41793 (Jun 25, 2013)

nicolevins said:


> There's a very informative video made by a member here that I watched recently. I think it was spiderengineer who uploaded it(if I got your name wrong, I'm sorry man!) Here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyjKIQmluF0
> 
> Assuming you are talking about Haplopelma lividum - I personally keep my 2cm sling in a vial with 4" of Exo Terra plantation soil, about 75-80% humidity. I keep the humidity by adding damp substrate to begin with, NOT by misting, which I believe is often done wrong and is rather useless and probably stressful. When I rehouse I plan to put it into an enclosure with 8"+ of substrate. They are a burrowing/tropical species and they like a LOT of substrate to burrow. Generally keepers make a burrow for them, or at least start one. Cross ventilation is good. Some will take to it, others will not.Ensure you pack down the substrate nice and tight to avoid the burrow collapsing. They are a defensive Old World species, so their first defensive mechanism is generally to bite. Their bite is medically significant, I believe. They are extremely fast. For these reasons, they're not recommended for novices. From my short experience with this species, mine will generally retreat very quickly to it's burrow when I so much as touch the enclosure. They can sometimes be nervous or skittish. They seem to have a good feeding response, which is always cool to watch! They are known to be "pet holes". I have seen some members on here that they only see their H. lividum once or twice a year but I see mine every evening at the opening of it's burrow, probably looking for food I imagine. I do believe they are fast growers. If I were you, I'd probably expect to not see it much. Other than deep substrate, humidity and giving it some privacy I don't really think there is too much more to it. They are a beautiful species but do NOT underestimate their speed.
> 
> Edit- got there before me!


This video was great! I never would have thought to use the piping as a pre made burrow for them. They're cool spiders even though they aren't seen a lot. 

One thing I have to add, is that you mentioned using heat mats for them. The temp of a heat mat CAN be controlled with a thermostat. I wouldn't recommend using one without a t-stat if you need a specific temp for your spider. The temps on them can spike and range quite a bit.


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## 3skulls (Jun 25, 2013)

I agree with Mike here. I had a few of the smallest ZooMed heat mats. Hit one with a temp gun, no T-stat, it was up to 120* in about 10mins.


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## spiderengineer (Jun 25, 2013)

Mike41793 said:


> This video was great! I never would have thought to use the piping as a pre made burrow for them. They're cool spiders even though they aren't seen a lot.
> 
> One thing I have to add, is that you mentioned using heat mats for them. The temp of a heat mat CAN be controlled with a thermostat. I wouldn't recommend using one without a t-stat if you need a specific temp for your spider. The temps on them can spike and range quite a bit.


good to know you can control a heat mat temperature.


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## Storm76 (Jun 26, 2013)

Poec54 said:


> And that's the problem.  The public sees Brachypelma being handled and then want the pretty blue one so they can handle it too.  A 'spider is a spider' to them.  Too many people enter the hobby with the expectation of handling their spider.  These are not animals to cuddle with.


Something that apparently most people forget...


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## 3skulls (Jun 26, 2013)

Bad pic but here is where my lividum hangs out most of the time. It's about 1.5" now.


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## naychur (Jun 27, 2013)

I have a female sub-adult H lividum. She is in a 10 gal. The coco fiber is damp and she seems to hate the dampness like my GBB does. She spends most of her time on the top of the tank. She has a coconut hide and will occasionally go inside. She has not started a burrow and I am wondering if I should start one for her. She is eating and has been in this tank about a month. 

After watching spiderengineer's video, I realize I need more substrate,  as it is only 1/2 way filled with a grade. 

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## spiderengineer (Jun 27, 2013)

naychur said:


> I have a female sub-adult H lividum. She is in a 10 gal. The coco fiber is damp and she seems to hate the dampness like my GBB does. She spends most of her time on the top of the tank. She has a coconut hide and will occasionally go inside. She has not started a burrow and I am wondering if I should start one for her. She is eating and has been in this tank about a month.
> 
> After watching spiderengineer's video, I realize I need more substrate,  as it is only 1/2 way filled with a grade.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


its also possible the substrate is to damp as well like I said in the video it doesn't need to be a swamp in their. also are you sure its a female and not a mature male. but yes if you have a her in a ten gallon you should fill up with lots substrate.


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## naychur (Jun 27, 2013)

I sexed her last molt. 99% sure it is a female. Posted in the sex ID segment but never got anyone to respond. Looked like a spermathace (sp) to me.

Substrate is not swampy. You can't squeeze water out of it, but it will clump wheen squeezed.  I even put her old substrate (which was dry) on top. Didn't seem to matter.

When I add more substrate should I dry it out and mix it all together then pack it? Also should I put in any live plant, like a Pathos?

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## spiderengineer (Jun 27, 2013)

naychur said:


> When I add more substrate should I dry it out and mix it all together then pack it? Also should I put in any live plant, like a Pathos?


you can mix the dry and wet together as long as you pack it down well. as far as the plant, you can add it in their, if you don't want to have a tank filled with just dirt, but if you fill the tank full of substrate the plant probably will not have enough room to be spread out, but its your decision.


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## Reinie 521 (Jun 28, 2013)

Hi,

I don't like to handle the Ts. I love feeding them and watching them doing their thing. The best thing here in our country is that every one have a dog, cat, or normal pets its not every day you can see a T. So for me its a very interesting hobby.

Reactions: Like 1


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## macbaffo (Jun 28, 2013)

naychur said:


> I have a female sub-adult H lividum. She is in a 10 gal. The coco fiber is damp and she seems to hate the dampness like my GBB does. She spends most of her time on the top of the tank. She has a coconut hide and will occasionally go inside. She has not started a burrow and I am wondering if I should start one for her. She is eating and has been in this tank about a month.
> 
> After watching spiderengineer's video, I realize I need more substrate,  as it is only 1/2 way filled with a grade.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


Yes you should start her a burrow. Until she settles down it may wander around that's why you think that she hate dumpness.

As for the potos remember plants need light. But i don't know the measures of the tank and what kind of cover it has.


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## Poec54 (Jun 28, 2013)

naychur said:


> Also should I put in any live plant, like a Pathos?


It's 'pothos' and no, live plants have their own set of needs and that can cause problems for the spider.  Use plastic plants to get some color and variety in the cage.  Silk plants have dyes that leak out, so I avoid them.  Anything a spider walks on gets on it's feet, and eventually into it's mouth when it grooms itself.


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## macbaffo (Jun 28, 2013)

Live plants gets the enclosure more complex and more difficult to control. In nature spiders coexist with plants. Plus there's the conflict between the need of the light of the plants and the spiders tendency to avoid light.
But i guess that is another split endless debate like "better peat or coco for substrate". 
But if you still are learning basic care for that species maybe it's early to even think about plants.


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## naychur (Jun 28, 2013)

I can do without the plant. Was just geting a consensus because of pics I have viewed.

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## lancej (Jun 28, 2013)

The best cages for Haplopelma species are tall ones that open at the top.  I think the best ones for adults are plastic cereal containers.  The crystal clear ones are the best for viewing.  The biggest advantage of the cereal containers is they are narrow, so their burrows will be at least partly against the side, so you will actually get to see your pet hole.  I have used these when I kept Haplos and they worked great.


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## naychur (Jun 28, 2013)

lancej said:


> The best cages for Haplopelma species are tall ones that open at the top.  I think the best ones for adults are plastic cereal containers.  The crystal clear ones are the best for viewing.  The biggest advantage of the cereal containers is they are narrow, so their burrows will be at least partly against the side, so you will actually get to see your pet hole.  I have used these when I kept Haplos and they worked great.


Okay. Interesting thought. So the space that a 10 gal can provide is not necessary as long as they have plenty of vertical space for their burrow?  How much verticle space (in incher or feet) would you recommend.

I don't have a problem re-housing. The 2 I have done were uneventful. I just want "Shran" to be where she is happy and feels secure.

I don't keep any heat on my Ts and the house is between 70-75°F.

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## Poec54 (Jun 28, 2013)

macbaffo said:


> Live plants gets the enclosure more complex and more difficult to control. In nature spiders coexist with plants. Plus there's the conflict between the need of the light of the plants and the spiders tendency to avoid light.
> But i guess that is another split endless debate like "better peat or coco for substrate".


+1.  Most spiders in the wild live amongst plants to some degree, so they're a nice addition to an otherwise drab cage.  But in the wild, there's shade and dappled sunlight, rain water drains, and wind dries the substrate out, things that are difficult to duplicate indoors in a spider cage.  Plastic plants give some color and texture to a cage, without the issues of live plants, and help spiders feel more natural, safe, and comfortable.  They can sit and hide amongst them, and walk thru them, instead of having things empty and bare.  I get clusters of the long vine types, cut them to size, and lay them on the substrate.  Some have suction cups for attachment to the sides.  

As far as the 'peat vs coco' debate, there's also bagged top soil, which is all I use.


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## macbaffo (Jun 28, 2013)

Poec54 said:


> +1.  Most spiders in the wild live amongst plants to some degree, so they're a nice addition to an otherwise drab cage.  But in the wild, there's shade and dappled sunlight, rain water drains, and wind dries the substrate out, things that are difficult to duplicate indoors in a spider cage.  Plastic plants give some color and texture to a cage, without the issues of live plants, and help spiders feel more natural, safe, and comfortable.  They can sit and hide amongst them, and walk thru them, instead of having things empty and bare.  I get clusters of the long vine types, cut them to size, and lay them on the substrate.  Some have suction cups for attachment to the sides.
> 
> As far as the 'peat vs coco' debate, there's also bagged top soil, which is all I use.


I completely agree with you about "more cover, more safe will the spider feel".  More safe feel might also result in more willing to stick more parts of the body outside of the hole/hide.
As for the mentioned debate, i knew you are using top soil but i was just mentioning the two most popular choices. I didn't mean to imply top soil is not good, i respect your long and rich experience.


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## lancej (Jun 28, 2013)

naychur said:


> Okay. Interesting thought. So the space that a 10 gal can provide is not necessary as long as they have plenty of vertical space for their burrow?  How much verticle space (in incher or feet) would you recommend.
> 
> I don't have a problem re-housing. The 2 I have done were uneventful. I just want "Shran" to be where she is happy and feels secure.
> 
> ...


For an adult, I would say at least 10 inches of substrate.  Even more is better if you can.  They seem to just keep digging until they hit the bottom no matter how deep.  Another reason for using cereal containers is you can use less substrate.  Plus an aquarium with that much substrate is very heavy.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## spiderengineer (Jun 28, 2013)

in the wild their burrower can be over a foot deep. I have actually been thinking try out buckets with lids I found at walmart that measure 14 inches in height. going to wait for one of my younger haploplemas to get bigger and see how well they work. they seem like perfect containers for them.


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## naychur (Jun 28, 2013)

Where can I find the clear cereal containers?

Who makes them (Rubbermaid, Sterlite, etc)?

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## freedumbdclxvi (Jun 28, 2013)

Try bed bath and beyond or the container store.  Anothet option is the gallon plastic pretzel jugs.  I have a number of Haplos in those.


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## naychur (Jun 28, 2013)

Great! I have one of those!!

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## Poec54 (Jun 28, 2013)

Rather than give them a foot of substrate, you can also give them 5" in sweater box sized container, and let them tunnel around thru that.  The burrow they dig doesn't have to all be vertical.  With something wider and flatter, they can dig a two foot long burrow.


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## Mike41793 (Jun 28, 2013)

Do you think it matter or they recognize a difference? Do they just go straight down until they hit the bottom and then branch out one way?


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## Poec54 (Jun 28, 2013)

Mike41793 said:


> Do you think it matter or they recognize a difference? Do they just go straight down until they hit the bottom and then branch out one way?


Right.  In the wild they'll hit rocks and hard clay, and adjust direction accordingly.  One reason they go down is to get in a cooler temperature area, when outside it's blazing hot.  Not an issue in captivity.


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## spiderengineer (Jun 28, 2013)

Mike41793 said:


> Do you think it matter or they recognize a difference? Do they just go straight down until they hit the bottom and then branch out one way?


personally all my haplopelma when they hit the bottom they just make a chamber at the bottom.  I have other burrowering species who when they hit the bottom made a big donute shape tunnels at the bottom. I find that haplopelma are pretty simple in burrower design just one direction and then a chamber at the end. however, their are exception to the rule, I am just going off my observation.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## freedumbdclxvi (Jun 28, 2013)

I find it depends on the individual spider.  About half the Haplos I have (mostly minax group) will continue to burrow around once hitting the bottom.  The other half (mostly schmidti group) hit the bottom and build a chamber.


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## Poec54 (Jun 29, 2013)

spiderengineer said:


> personally all my haplopelma when they hit the bottom they just make a chamber at the bottom.  I have other burrowering species who when they hit the bottom made a big donute shape tunnels at the bottom. I find that haplopelma are pretty simple in burrower design just one direction and then a chamber at the end. however, their are exception to the rule, I am just going off my observation.


If you bury a plastic container in the middle of the cage (tupperware) it keeps the spider digging next to the sides so that you can see them, and directs them to continue tunneling around the cage, instead of making a big chamber.

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## macbaffo (Jun 29, 2013)

spiderengineer said:


> personally all my haplopelma when they hit the bottom they just make a chamber at the bottom.  I have other burrowering species who when they hit the bottom made a big donute shape tunnels at the bottom. I find that haplopelma are pretty simple in burrower design just one direction and then a chamber at the end. however, their are exception to the rule, I am just going off my observation.


I observed that too but i think the reason might be influenced by dept of substrate, size of specimen, and space floor avaible at the bottom of enclosure.
If given enough dept, down and chamber. If not, they will use every inch available of substrate to reach a "safe distance" from surface and then you see digging around the corners of the bottom.


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## naychur (Jun 30, 2013)

I got the clear cerial container from BB&B, but I am a little concerned about the top. It has an air-tight lid with a button to activate the seal. I will be making air holes in the container itself, not the lid. 

My worry is can the Colbolt get the lid off? We can get the lid off with the air lock activated, with a little bit of effort. This is before the air holes. Just don't want this one getting out!

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## spiderengineer (Jun 30, 2013)

naychur said:


> I got the clear cerial container from BB&B, but I am a little concerned about the top. It has an air-tight lid with a button to activate the seal. I will be making air holes in the container itself, not the lid.
> 
> My worry is can the Colbolt get the lid off? We can get the lid off with the air lock activated, with a little bit of effort. This is before the air holes. Just don't want this one getting out!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


once it has a burrow escape wont be an issue, but if you want peace of mine put something that a little heavy on top of the lid.


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## naychur (Jul 4, 2013)

Step one of my new enclosure for Shran the Colbolt.  It is 12" tall and 6" deep. Just put in 4 holes on each side for ventalation.

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## spiderengineer (Jul 4, 2013)

naychur said:


> Step one of my new enclosure for Shran the Colbolt.  It is 12" tall and 6" deep. Just put in 4 holes on each side for ventalation.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


pack and filled that sucker with substrate to up to the holes. then saturate the substrate, let it set for a bit, the make a hole in the center for your lividum to start its burrower. presto instant haplopelma tank


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## lancej (Jul 4, 2013)

Looks good so far.  Keep us posted


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## naychur (Jul 5, 2013)

In the tank she's in now, Shran has a small kidney shapped water bowl.  It looks like I will need to go back to a sauce cup water bowl for her new enclosure?

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## macbaffo (Jul 5, 2013)

It's not needed since you moisten the substrate.


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## naychur (Jul 5, 2013)

So no waterbowl, just keep the substrate misted?

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## Poec54 (Jul 5, 2013)

naychur said:


> So no waterbowl, just keep the substrate misted?


You should have both, moist substrate and a water bowl.  If the soils dries before you realize, a water bowl can be crucial.


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## macbaffo (Jul 5, 2013)

naychur said:


> So no waterbowl, just keep the substrate misted?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


Water the substrate, don't mist it.


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## lancej (Jul 5, 2013)

Poec54 said:


> You should have both, moist substrate and a water bowl.  If the soils dries before you realize, a water bowl can be crucial.


Both are necessary.  And if you are lucky, she will deposit her boluses in the water bowl (makes for easy clean up).


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## Lopez (Jul 6, 2013)

Water bowls  are not necessary in my experience.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## naychur (Jul 6, 2013)

Filled the new enclosure last night and had an uneventful transfer. I packed the dirt down around the tube from a cricket keeper for a burrow guide that went down about 1/2 way. Took the tube out when filled.

Shran stayed right on top of the burrow for a little bit then went to the exposed side of the enclosure and just stayed on the acrylic.  Doesn't seem intetested in a burrow at all. If she doesn't go into her burrow, it is going to make feeding and maintenence difficult. 

In her bigger enclosure, she did hang out at her water bowl in the middle of the night.

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## spiderengineer (Jul 6, 2013)

naychur said:


> Filled the new enclosure last night and had an uneventful transfer. I packed the dirt down around the tube from a cricket keeper for a burrow guide that went down about 1/2 way. Took the tube out when filled.
> 
> Shran stayed right on top of the burrow for a little bit then went to the exposed side of the enclosure and just stayed on the acrylic.  Doesn't seem intetested in a burrow at all. If she doesn't go into her burrow, it is going to make feeding and maintenence difficult.
> 
> ...


some times they don't take to the burrow immediatly. I had a few who took a couple of days until they took to it, others made their own burrower, just be Patience. also some times a few of my cobalts were in premolt and waiting until after they molted and harden up to start to burrow. it won't make feeding difficult she will still eat (unless in premolt) maintenance use tongs.

Reactions: Like 1


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## naychur (Jul 6, 2013)

Don't you know it, as soon as I posted I got the word that Shran was in the borrow! 
Thanks for the help!

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## lancej (Jul 6, 2013)

I think I can see her smiling at you 
Nice job!


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## naychur (Jul 6, 2013)

I find it amazing that she has been so cooperative compared to what I have read about the species. I guess it all balances out because I have the most nervous G pulchra! 

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## spiderengineer (Jul 6, 2013)

naychur said:


> I find it amazing that she has been so cooperative compared to what I have read about the species.


I as I always say Haplopelmas get a bad rap, they can be defensive, but they just want to be left alone and as long as you give them the ability to burrow and don't bother them, then they will be more prone to run then give threat display, but if you put them in a corner then yeah you will see why people call them defensive.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Poec54 (Jul 6, 2013)

spiderengineer said:


> I as I always say Haplopelmas get a bad rap, they can be defensive, but they just want to be left alone and as long as you give them the ability to burrow and don't bother them, then they will be more prone to run then give threat display.


+1.  ALL tarantulas want to be left alone.  It's our job as owners to keep disruptions to a minimum and let them live as natural as possible.


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## naychur (Jul 7, 2013)

.....and a happy girl this morning!

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## kitkatie (Jul 28, 2013)

My H. lividum has been in its tank for months and no burrow yet. She just sits in her hide instead. Is she mentally challenged?


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## spiderengineer (Jul 28, 2013)

kitkatie said:


> My H. lividum has been in its tank for months and no burrow yet. She just sits in her hide instead. Is she mentally challenged?


I find H. lividum take a while to burrow, I find making a premade burrow for her to start with helps in speeding the process up


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## kitkatie (Jul 28, 2013)

Well she kind of started one and then just left it. I figure she's lazy (except for the fact that she is evil and possibly possessed by the devil and fast as heck.)


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## spiderengineer (Jul 28, 2013)

kitkatie said:


> Well she kind of started one and then just left it. I figure she's lazy (except for the fact that she is evil and possibly possessed by the devil and fast as heck.)


how much substrate do you have? has it molted for you? I find that some time haplopelma who are in premolt or close to premolt will wait until they molt before burrowing, last are you sure you don't have a mature male?


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## kitkatie (Jul 28, 2013)

I have about 7 inches of substrate, she has not molted yet, I've had her 6 months, and she is absolutely a mature female.


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## spiderengineer (Jul 28, 2013)

kitkatie said:


> I have about 7 inches of substrate, she has not molted yet, I've had her 6 months, and she is absolutely a mature female.


well I would add more substrate I give mine at lest ten, especially if she is a mature female. but like I said they just take for ever to burrower that's why I avoid rehousing unless I have to. so this is my recommendation is to re home her into something with more substrate and add a premade burrow and see if that helps.

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## kitkatie (Jul 28, 2013)

I can just put more substrate in the tank she is in. She also hasn't eaten in the 6 months I've had her, she still has a very healthy fat butt, she's just on strike. I figure she'll molt eventually and then probably burrow, makes sense that they wouldn't want to do it pre molt.


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## spiderengineer (Jul 28, 2013)

kitkatie said:


> I can just put more substrate in the tank she is in. She also hasn't eaten in the 6 months I've had her, she still has a very healthy fat butt, she's just on strike. I figure she'll molt eventually and then probably burrow, makes sense that they wouldn't want to do it pre molt.


that could be it then, to much energy to use in burrowing if they were in premolt.


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