# Which brachy do u prefer?



## Chicken Farmer (Jan 23, 2012)

I was set on b. Smithi but I have been looking at the other colorful types of brachys.

I am interested in, smithi, emilia, bohemi. What are the pros and cons? Which one is for me? I want one who will not be to skittish, and will most likely be okay with being handled. I know it depends on the spider though.

I am getting a b. Albo also and one of these. Possible a red rump also.

If I had a albo, red rump ( vagan?) and one of the others, on average how many medium/large crickets would they be eating per week?


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## creepa (Jan 23, 2012)

The one thats called brachyramosa:sarcasm:


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## Trogdora (Jan 23, 2012)

B. emilia is going to be the most docile out of the three, in my experience. It's rare that my emilia will flick hairs, while my smithi does it more often. And then there's boehmei, which is arguably the best looking of the three, but also the most prone to skittishness and hair flicking, so much so that I had to get rid of mine. (I've developed quite the sensitivity to Brachypelma u-hairs over the years.) Of all the Brachypelma though, the albopilosum that you're getting will be the most tolerant of handling, though I personally don't recommend it unless you absolutely have to. The vagans will be more skittish and also prone to flicking hairs.

As far as how many crickets you'll need, that really depends on the size of the spiders. How large will these individuals be?


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## Ultum4Spiderz (Jan 23, 2012)

Mexican fireleg is among the largest brachys.. & best colored but it is VERY skittish..
id go with B emilia despite being one of the smaller brachys... great T.. I dont own one though


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 23, 2012)

i meant at adult sizes how many a week for the albo, vagan, and 1 of the others.  oh and how do i find the replies for my posts. the only way i know is through my username. wheres the button?


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## Trogdora (Jan 23, 2012)

I only feed my adults one cricket a week, or one every other week. My Brachypelma have big appetites and could easily be overfed, so I like to keep the feeding schedule moderate.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 23, 2012)

any other opinions?


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## SpiderNurse (Jan 23, 2012)

I only have a B. auratum, more black than smithi but pretty sharp looking. I like B. emilia and LOVE B. boehmei.


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## 1hughjazzspider (Jan 23, 2012)

I'd go for a B. schroederi if you can get your hands on one.


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## mmfh (Jan 23, 2012)

I only have a B. bohemi. I don't handle so I don't know how defensive they are. As far as feeding it depends, mine was massively overfeed at the LPS so right now I only give it one small cricket every other week. (it is 2.5") My other adult T's get 1 large cricket a week.


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## Sweepstakes (Jan 23, 2012)

I'd feed them 2 crickets each once a week when they are full grown, maybe more after a molt to get them back to normal looking size. My two brachys are only slings now so I cannot attest to their temperament, although my B. smithi lets me handle him and move him no problem even though he likes to hair his food on occasion.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 23, 2012)

so 1-2 crickets is the average for an adult. thats not to bad, compared to my salamander who would eat, 3 -4 average every other to every 2 day. rip monster.

i am going to weight on one of thesefor a while until i figure out everything when i get my albo, to make sure i am not a tarantula killer.

which of these is another good beginer? i am ordering from patrick86. i am going with the cheaper sling first. which ones will be docile and might tolerate handling once bigger?


Brachypelma vagans, .33"......$5
 Grammostola porteri, .5".......$6
 Heteroscodra maculata, .33"-.5"..........$6
 Pterinochilus murinus, .33".....$5


of so mixed opinions, on the brachys the thread was made about. so i guess it kind of depends on the actual spider.


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## NevularScorpion (Jan 23, 2012)

Once you see B barguamteni, B schroderi, B klassi you will change your favorite because this 3 are one of the most docile and non hair kicker in my experience. especially the huge B barguamteni I always handle his B barguam and its very calm and docile

---------- Post added 01-23-2012 at 05:36 PM ----------

you should get the Grammostola porteri or Vagan they are both begginers 



Chicken Farmer said:


> so 1-2 crickets is the average for an adult. thats not to bad, compared to my salamander who would eat, 3 -4 average every other to every 2 day. rip monster.
> 
> i am going to weight on one of thesefor a while until i figure out everything when i get my albo, to make sure i am not a tarantula killer.
> 
> ...


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 23, 2012)

they are probably not in my price range either  which is not very much. maybe after i get the hang of keeping them. 

could i see a pic of the B barguamteni? i didn't find one on google.


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## Vespula (Jan 23, 2012)

I started out with the smithi. Mine's a sweetie, but a flicker. I'm kind of surprised that the brat has any hair left at all. She's one of my spiders that I don't handle unless necessary.

Out of your choices up there, I'd go with the G. porteri. They're a lot like the G. rosea. 

Good luck, whatever your choice is.


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## k2power (Jan 23, 2012)

I have adults of all three and all kick but the smithi and boehmei definitley kick hair more than the emilia.  They go thorugh non-feeding bouts and currently the smithi is not feeding well but was a pig when I got it and the emilia and boehmei are pigs now.  I have juvenile smithi and boehmei (1-1.5")and they eat very well and are as easy to keep as the adults.  Nothing looks better than a boehmei and that is hard to get over.  I an in awe every time I look at it.  They are from red soil areas and thus explains the preponderance for orange in Mexican Brachys from the west coast of Mexico.  I highly recommend Andrew Smith's video on the orange Brachys.

---------- Post added 01-23-2012 at 09:54 PM ----------

It is Brachypelma baumgarteni. Try that spelling, I had to look it up myself.


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## fartkowski (Jan 23, 2012)

I've got several of each different brachy's and in my opinion the B. smithi is the most docile. 
Of the 4 you have listed there, the G. porteri would be the best beginner species.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 23, 2012)

I like B.  baumgarteni .

so G. porteri aren't like rocks? i liked the b. vagan because it had color. but i would like one that is out showing off its colors.  which one, a porteri or a vagan. i am getting an albopilosum and one of the others 2. i want at least 1 of these holdable so i can teach people about them, i wouldn't ever let anyone hold it unless i was positive they were not going to throw it.

so emilia seems to be most docile smithi too.


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## xTarantula (Jan 23, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> I like B.  baumgarteni .
> 
> so G. porteri aren't like rocks? i liked the b. vagan because it had color. but i would like one that is out showing off its colors.  which one, a porteri or a vagan. i am getting an albopilosum and one of the others 2. i want at least 1 of these holdable so i can teach people about them, i wouldn't ever let anyone hold it unless i was positive they were not going to throw it.
> 
> so emilia seems to be most docile smithi too.


B. albopilosum are very docile, That could be the one you could hold to show people. Since your getting 2, the other one should be an active display one. I'd go with the B. vagans because they look awesome. (Jet Black+Red) They are the fastest growing Brachy and will also grow out to be the biggest. They are more skittish and defensive so they wouldn't be too good for handling, but they make cool displays. Slings like to burrow but after a few molts they start to display color and stay on the ground more.

-Good Luck! oh:


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## Ultum4Spiderz (Jan 24, 2012)

I wish I could afford B. baumgarteni  , im so long on cash ill stick to B boehemi ... they both get HUGE & have impressive colors...
Great spider... Mexican firelegs are among the largest / best colored bachys... so a great choice..
handling is not adviced they are MAJOR hair kickers..  & skittish

B smithi / B emelia a better choice... it you dont like getting showered by hairs

If you  like a great display brachy B. baumgarteni  / B boehmei are great choices... sorry if my spelling is off im tired/ dont feel like googling
Average fireleg size is around 5.5-6.5" inches... big brachy's
my MM is 6.5" inches or so... measured via ruler / female id say 6"

any brachy.. makes a great T you cannot go wrong... dont handle B vagans.. unless you own a docile specimen mine is very bitey


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## AshLee (Jan 24, 2012)

I'm really hot on B. albiceps these days.


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## Alireza (Jan 24, 2012)

I'll offer you a B. albicpes. they are absolutely gorgeous and have a nice temper.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 24, 2012)

I actually have never been haired. I'm probably allergic to them some what. My mom had a tarantula way long time ago. She said the hair never bothered her, but it bothered her sister.  Who knows with me. I am allergic to daisies kind off. I get itchy from the pollen. And sunflowers are another story. I was picking wild sunflowers and had pollen and sap on my hand and itched my nose. A little while later my nose started burning. After a while I had a scab, and it didn't stop burning for almost 2 days. 

But okay, when I get enough money in the tarantula money jar, I might try an emilia or smithi. I have to buy 50 dollar cat food, which means no spiders over 10 dollars.

I might go with the vagan, over the porteri. I just don't know.

Oh, and why are some t's called pokies?


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## AlexRC (Jan 24, 2012)

My B Emilia has never attempted to hair me or give a threat posture, and same for my B. Albopilosum.  My B Smithi has kicked on a few occasions, but very rarely.  Of the three, I'd say my B Albopilosum is definitely the most handleable, she's super calm, and super sweet.  
Of your choices listed, I'd agree with xTarantula.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Sweepstakes (Jan 24, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> so 1-2 crickets is the average for an adult. thats not to bad, compared to my salamander who would eat, 3 -4 average every other to every 2 day. rip monster.
> 
> i am going to weight on one of thesefor a while until i figure out everything when i get my albo, to make sure i am not a tarantula killer.
> 
> ...


If you are a beginner and have never done anything with T's before, I'd advise staying away from the H. mac and the P. murinus. They are both fast and defensive and on a whole other level compared to the docile terrestrials we have been talking about here. Really, you can't go wrong with any of the Grammo's or Brachy's for beginner T's, but just be warned that if you get them as slings many of them are very slow growers. If you are worried about crickets and numbers, just do what I did and buy enough T's that you don't have any wasted crickets due to not having enough T's to feed


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 24, 2012)

okay, i am getting all 3. I have been working with patrick 86. He has been very helpful answering my questions, and figuring out shipping and everything else.

How big of crickets should i be feeding to the slings? they are .5 and .33 . Could you compare the size of cricket to something standard in your house?  or maybe the long type of ibuprofen?


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 24, 2012)

oh and when they out grow their vials, i have eco earth. anything special that needs done to it before i use it?


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## Trogdora (Jan 24, 2012)

Do you have bricks of Eco Earth, or did you buy a bag of loose substrate?


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 24, 2012)

its a brick. well half a brick. from my salamander who passed away a few months ago.


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## syndicate (Jan 24, 2012)

creepa said:


> The one thats called brachyramosa:sarcasm:


haha I prefer Selenobrachys!


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## xTarantula (Jan 24, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> okay, i am getting all 3. I have been working with patrick 86. He has been very helpful answering my questions, and figuring out shipping and everything else.
> 
> How big of crickets should i be feeding to the slings? they are .5 and .33 . Could you compare the size of cricket to something standard in your house?  or maybe the long type of ibuprofen?


You should leave 1/3 of the Substrate moist so the Slings can drink water. When it dries out after a couple days, you should wet it again. That why your Slings can stay hydrated. For Slings that size, I'd recommend feeding them either Pinhead Crickets or Flightless Fruit Flies (D.Hydei). I prefer FFF because they are easy to keep alive, reproduce at a constant rate, and don't smell. They tend to be a bit smaller so you might want to make sure your Slings can find it and feed them more often.


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## Trogdora (Jan 24, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> its a brick. well half a brick. from my salamander who passed away a few months ago.


You'll need to soak the brick so it will expand, then let the substrate dry. Brachypelma like it dry, though tiny slings should have higher humidity.

As for why some tarantulas are called pokies, it's short for members of the genus Poecilotheria, just like you used Brachy for Brachypelma.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 24, 2012)

okay, soak it and let dry.


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## bchbum11 (Jan 24, 2012)

Another option for feeding slings is to cut a cricket in half and just drop it into the enclosure. They will scavenge, and while kind of gruesome this technique will save you the hassle of trying to capture/care for pinheads. Just be sure to go back through the next morning to remove any uneaten remains. I usually have crickets around to feed to other animals, but if I was only feeding a few Ts I would probably try doing this with meal worms, which are cleaner and can be kept in the fridge.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 25, 2012)

Now, what kind of environment should each have? Grammostola porteri b. vagan, b. albo. also is the g. porteri like a pet rock?


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## Stan Schultz (Jan 25, 2012)

Ultum4Spiderz said:


> Mexican fireleg is among the largest brachys.. & best colored but it is VERY skittish..
> id go with B emilia despite being one of the smaller brachys... great T.. I dont own one though


The Duchess had an 8" (20+ cm) DLS. For that matter, she still does. She's ensconced in a bottle of alcohol in a storage locker in Calgary.



(Uploaded with ImageShack.us)

They are *NOT* small tarantulas. They're very slow growers. If you're comparing a ten year old _emilia_ to some other ten year old tarantula you'll get the impression that they're small, but you're making an unfair comparison. Your average ten year old tarantula is about middle aged. But, your _emilia_ may not even be sexually mature yet! Enthusiasts may think they're small tarantulas because they don't realize that it takes 40 years for them to grow to full size.

Did you know that once the females become sexually mature they usually switch over to a schedule of molting about every *TWO* years, instead of the usual annual molts? And, when they become really, REALLY old, perhaps in their late thirties or forties, they switch to molting every three years? None of this frenzied, even hysterical growth, maturation, and daily living thing like the other tarantulas. They're in it for the long haul!

Keeping an _emilia_ is a little like keeping some sort of national treasure. If you've had one for even 10 years, you still need to learn to be very patient. Both you and the tarantula have a _LOOOONNNNGGGG_ way to go yet. Be sure to write it into your Last Will and Testament!

Oh wait, you said you didn't have one. Well, we need to see what we can do about *THAT*! 

Obviously, without question, my favorite is _Brachypelma emilia_. You can't help but appreciate a tarantula that may likely outlive you.


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## Anonymity82 (Jan 25, 2012)

I would buy a sub adult B. emilia if I could find one and had the money. I think they are the most attractive.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 25, 2012)

that is a long time!

can anyone answer my questions? Now, what kind of environment should each have? Grammostola porteri b. vagan, b. albo. also is the g. porteri like a pet rock?


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## xTarantula (Jan 25, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> that is a long time!
> 
> can anyone answer my questions? Now, what kind of environment should each have? Grammostola porteri b. vagan, b. albo. also is the g. porteri like a pet rock?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MZdCD1ZvP0 [Brachypelma Care Sheet]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2U_eQPSO5s  [Rosea Care Sheet]

By Jon3800

In my opinion, Rosea's tend to be a Pet Rock. Some people have had ones that are quite active, but I find that rare.


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## Dr Acula (Jan 26, 2012)

Both my smithi and boehmei are sweethearts, but both have their downsides at times.  My smithi likes to rear up like an OBT and the boehmei just kicks hairs nonstop  but once out of their enclosure, I couldn't ask for sweeter Ts


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## Ultum4Spiderz (Jan 26, 2012)

Pikaia said:


> The Duchess had an 8" (20+ cm) DLS. For that matter, she still does. She's ensconced in a bottle of alcohol in a storage locker in Calgary.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow thats awsome.. I had no idea that brachy got 8" inches
I knew some others ones got max 7-8" also..

could my 6" fireleg  & 5" B vagans, 5" N coloratovilousus have a lot of growth left?


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## Rob1985 (Jan 27, 2012)

I really like B.vagans. They're hardy giants and as adults they're almost always out in the open.


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## Ultum4Spiderz (Jan 27, 2012)

B vagans get pretty big actualy john3800 has a 6.5-7" one... Bigger brachy 7-8" max size

Lasiodoras still crush any  brachy in size


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## Stan Schultz (Jan 27, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> ... what kind of environment should each have? Grammostola porteri b. vagan, b. albo. ...


These can all be kept as arid species. Nothing else particularly special about them. Among the easiest tarantulas to keep in captivity.



Chicken Farmer said:


> ... also is the g. porteri like a pet rock?


And yes, they're all pretty much pet rocks. If you need something hysterically exiting get yourself a hamster with an exercise wheel. Tarantulas aren't your thing.

One of the many qualities of tarantulas that most enthusiasts don't appreciate, and that may ultimately be their biggest problem as pets, is that they're more an intellectual pet than an active pet. Regardless of which one or several you get, they all more or less just sit there and meditate. A few have been known to move or twitch every few hours, but not all by any means. If you want to appreciate tarantulas you need to learn patience and deep introspection. Why are they doing what they're doing? *Or, not?* Many of us gravitate to the more active kinds. A few species will move or do something else exiting more than once a day. Or, we collect dozens (in our case for years, hundreds) just so we could see somebody, *ANYBODY* move.

So, I think that the major reason why we see so many people coming and going from the hobby and from these forums (a high turnover rate) is that once they get a tarantula and don't see it do anything, they get bored (most people have an attention span comparable to the half-life of some subatomic particles anyway), their eyes glaze over, and they stagger off to play _Worlds of Warcraft_ instead.

If you will, compare tarantulas to Yoda: Very old. Very wise. Very patient. And humanoids to Luke Skywalker: Very young. Very stupid. Very hyperthyroid. Very hormonal. Typical teenagers. 

It's time for us to grow up, maybe? (Please. That's not a personal attack. It's a generic comment about our species. I'm not trying to be abusive.)

Enjoy your little 8-legged, green alien!


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## Ultum4Spiderz (Jan 27, 2012)

Most Ts seem to sit around daily in there favorite "resting " / hunting spot"
Many Genus of Ts are pet rocks sometimes...


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## hamhock 74 (Jan 27, 2012)

I prefer my B.auratum and albopilosum over my vagans, emilia, smithi, and bohemi. The first two are calm and not prone to hai-kicking, the latter... totally opposite!


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 27, 2012)

I actually have 2 hairless guinea pigs that are wild and popcorn around, instead of a hamster. They were given to me and I couldn't say no, they were so cute.

I was just wondering about the pet rock because I need 1 that will tollarate being handled.


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## Stan Schultz (Jan 27, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> ... I need 1 that will tollarate being handled.


Oh, how I wish you hadn't said that! The subject of handling tarantulas has caused flame wars that rivaled the Korean War in ferocity!

If you're looking for a tarantula that's easily handled, try:

_Brachypelma albopilosum_, _emilia_, or _smithi_.

_Grammostola rosea_, or _pulchra_.

Lastly, any of the North American _Aphonopelma_ except _A. moderatum_, the Rio Grand Gold. This last species tends to be a biter. For the record, here's a photo of a young one *I just caught* near Laredo, Texas a few days ago.



(Uploaded with ImageShack.us)


Enjoy your little 8-legged marvel!


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## suzypike (Jan 27, 2012)

I have 2 B. albopilosums, 2 B smithis, a B klaasi, and a B albiceps. My B. albiceps is the most sweet and docile of the whole bunch of them. She is also a great display T and is out 100% of the time.  She is my favorite of all the 30+ Ts I have. 
All of my Brachys are all pretty docile. My albopilosums are a little skittish and hide, as does my klaasi. My smithis are pretty sweet too and very visible especially my 3" one.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 28, 2012)

Okay, so I sent the money for the 3! They will probably be shipped on Monday, and get were tuesdayvor Wednesday.

I ordered, b. Albopilosum g. Porteri and b. Vagan.  So I will most likely have 2 docile. Maybe the vagan will be tame if I am lucky.


How long do each of these slings take to mature?


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## Amoeba (Jan 28, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> Okay, so I sent the money for the 3! They will probably be shipped on Monday, and get were tuesdayvor Wednesday.
> 
> I ordered, b. Albopilosum g. Porteri and b. Vagan.  So I will most likely have 2 docile. Maybe the vagan will be tame if I am lucky.
> 
> ...


Congrats on the new slings!

When writing the names the genus is capitalized and the species is lower case. For example Brachypelma (genus) albopilosum (species). 

Tame is a terrible word to use for any animal because it tricks you into a false sense of security. 

They will take about forever to mature :laugh: I got a B vagans as 2i in August and it just molted to ~1" (6i if you're still counting).


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## Stan Schultz (Jan 28, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> ... How long do each of these slings take to mature?


That varies with the temperature you keep them at, how much you feed them, their sex, and their species. There are far too many variables to make a definitive prediction, but plan on somewhere between 5 and 10 years.

If they arrive alive in the first place, their life expectancies (your next question, no?) follow the same rules, but are probably longer than 10 minutes and shorter than 25 years depending on their care and just plain dumb luck.

And, as soon as this hits the 'Net I just know that someone is going to jump up and yell, "But I had one that lived..." And, I'm truly happy for these people. These are guesstimates, based on approximations. The truth is that we've not been breeding most tarantulas long enough that a significant number have had a chance to grow up, age, grow old and die. For another decade or so, life expectancies are still sort of a guessing game for all but the ones with the shortest life expectancies (e.g., some African baboons and the genus Avicularia, about 3 to 8 years). And even if we'd been breeding them for longer than we've been breeding dogs, and kept birth and death records better than we do our own species, it still would only be guesstimates, based on approximations. Same as for human maturation times and life expectancies. So, don't bet the food or rent money.

Great patience is needed to truly understand tarantulas, my child. :laugh:

---------- Post added 01-28-2012 at 08:53 AM ----------




Amoeba said:


> ... When writing the names the genus is capitalized and the species is lower case. For example Brachypelma (genus) albopilosum (species). ...


Okay, I'm going to be a smart:5: here, mostly because it's early in the morning and I don't do mornings well.

You are quite correct, but you didn't go quite far enough. Scientific names are also supposed to be italicized, or underlined if italics aren't possible. I presume there is a good reason for that, but it escapes me for now. In fact it's escaped me for the last 40 or 50 years! Anyway, on these forums you would insert these code strings before and after the scientific name:

[noparse]_Scientific name_[/noparse] to get _Scientific name_ or [noparse]Scientific name[/noparse] to get Scientific name.

Having said that, laymen and enthusiasts are not held to that standard, even though it would be a nice touch. But, scientists and authors who are supposed to know what they're doing *ARE* held to a higher standard, and roundly flogged if they fail to comply. :bruised:

Oh, now I remember why they're italicized! In the good old days before common sense, every scientific paper was written in Latin, the same as the scientific names. So, to differentiate the scientific name from the rest of the Latin gibberish, we italicized it, or underlined it if italics weren't possible. Like the vermiform appendix, it's another archaic anachronism we haven't grown out of. Yet. Maybe. Someday. I hope. :sarcasm:

*And, for any of you who haven't caught on yet, there are two very interesting pages on this site:*

*Smilies - Arachnoboards* lists all the available smilies.  Simply copy and paste the codes to the left of the icon you want.

*BBCode List - Arachnoboards* lists all the formatting codes applicable to these forums, and explains (sometimes cryptically) their application.

And, if you want to see how I or anybody else accomplished some nifty little special effect, merely click "Reply with Quite" in the lower right hand margin of that particular posting. Immediately below the posting you'll get it all laid out in detail for you, codes and everything. Just be careful to click the "Back" button on your browser or close the window when you're finished instead of clicking the "Submit Reply" button.

These addresses are probably also listed in some Sticky or FAQ someplace, but if you bookmark them now you won't have to search all through Heaven and Hell to find the links the next time you want to annoy your readership. 

*G[SIZE=+1]O[/SIZE] W*I*L[SIZE=+2]D[/SIZE]!*


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## Le Wasp (Jan 28, 2012)

I think it all depends on what your preferences are.  If you're getting a sling, the time it takes them to grow varies a lot.  In my experience, B. boehmei grows very quickly, but they're also very skittish.  B. smithi grow at a medium pace (for Brachy's), look great, and are typically docile.  B. emelia are beautiful and docile, but take foreeever to mature.  My slings that are almost 5 years old are barely over an inch!

In my opinion, B. smithi is the overall winner.  They're not prohibitively expensive, they grow at an okay pace, they're pretty docile, and look gorgeous.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 28, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies and help. After I get these guys and get used to them, I would like some type of aviculara, (how 
Ever u spell it) and a B. Smithi and emilia. 

I think a femal Emilia would be cool to raise, I would maybe have a chance of outliving it. 

Oh an about all the capitalization stuff, my iPad sometimes randomly capitalizes stuff.


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## HoboAustin (Jan 28, 2012)

I've been wanting a B. boehmi because it seems better than a B. smithi for some reason lol


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## Stan Schultz (Jan 29, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> ... Oh an about all the capitalization stuff, my iPad sometimes randomly capitalizes stuff.


Ah yes, the much feared auto-correct function. And it was programmed by Martians whose brains are... Maybe we should skip that and move right along. There should be some way of either turning it off entirely or having it merely underline or highlight spellings and punctuation it doesn't like or recognize, and wait for you to approve or not.

Come on, iPad people! How do you deal with one of these when it develops a mind of its own?


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## Hentzi (Jan 29, 2012)

Albiceps is by far the best Spider in the Brachypelma genus imo.


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## suzypike (Jan 29, 2012)

Pikaia said:


> Ah yes, the much feared auto-correct function. And it was programmed by Martians whose brains are... Maybe we should skip that and move right along. There should be some way of either turning it off entirely or having it merely underline or highlight spellings and punctuation it doesn't like or recognize, and wait for you to approve or not.
> 
> Cone on, iPad people! How do you deal with one of these when it develops a mind of its own?


OMG!  I have the exact same problem.  Left to its own devices, my iPad always capitalizes the species name and does crazy stuff-- the last embarrassing thing it did was change my Iridopelma sp. Recife, to Iridopelma sp. _recite_...   If I knew how to fix it, I would.  It changes your words with no warning and re-spells things that were spelled correctly if it 'decides' it doesn't like what you said... 



Hentzi said:


> Albiceps is by far the best Spider in the Brachypelma genus imo.


+1 :biggrin:


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## Yubz (Jan 30, 2012)

B.Albo's are amazing T's. Mine comes out alot and eats well and is very easy to move around when doing enclosure maintenance.

B Smithi is a bit more skittish, flicks hairs. Alot of people seem to have trigger happy hair flicking Smithis


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## Formerphobe (Jan 30, 2012)

I have:
_B. albopilosum 0.0.2
B. boehmei 1.2.0
B. emilia 2.1.2
B. schroederi 0.0.1
B. smithi 1.0.0
B. vagans 1.1.0
B. verdezi 0.1.0_

None are yet mature and range in size from 1" (_B. albopilosum_) to 5" (_B. boehmei_).  Most are between 3-4" DLS and have been raised from ~0.25".
IME:
fastest growth: _B. vagans_
slowest growth: _B. smithi_
most skittish: _B. boehmei_ (Only one of my brachys to ever throw me a threat pose - male is more reactive than the females)
frequently burrowed: _B. vagans, B. emilia_
most entertaining: _B. verdezi, B. schroederi_
best eaters: hmmm, well, all of them
pet rocks: well, they all have gone through phases.  _B. boehmei_ and _B. albo_ are more consistently pet rocks than the others, but the _albos_ are still tiny.

I can't tell you about hair-flicking as none of mine have ever flicked hairs at me, neither do I routinely handle any of mine or otherwise harass them.


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## Chicken Farmer (Jan 30, 2012)

i will probably end up buying all 3. plus more brachys. i am also interested in avics.


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## Chicken Farmer (Feb 2, 2012)

they came!!!!!!!!!!!!!   they are so cute! smaller than what i was imagining.  the 2 brachy's burrowed down and the porteri/ rose hair wants out. 

i would get pics but i doubt my 7.1 megapixel  camera can get a good pic.


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## suzypike (Feb 2, 2012)

That's awesome. Have fun!


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## zonbonzovi (Feb 3, 2012)

Out of my albopilosum, albiceps, boehmei, angustum & vagans the vagans is the most interesting.  They manipulate the terrarium like they're on a Martha Stewart rampage, hunt with purpose(and finish their prey), show some Ted Nugent-esque attitude, stand their ground, laugh at keeper neglect and they're velvety black with a bright red/orangey set of pantaloons.


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## Shrike (Feb 3, 2012)

zonbonzovi said:


> with a bright red/orangey set of pantaloons.


This made me laugh.  You're right though, other Brachys' pantaloons are just kind of run of the mill.


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## tarantulaguy100 (Nov 22, 2012)

B vagans for me


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## Stan Schultz (Nov 22, 2012)

Ultum4Spiderz said:


> Mexican fireleg is among the largest brachys.. & best colored but it is VERY skittish..
> id go with B emilia despite being one of the smaller brachys... great T.. I dont own one though


No, no,  no! These are *NOT* one of the smaller kinds. If anything they're among the largest. Our old girl, The Duchess, had an 8" leg span when she died at age 35 to 40 *YEARS*. And, that holds the key to why people may think they're a small tarantula. It takes them *FOREVER* to grow. But, then they live darn near forever! (Click or right-click the thumbnail to see a larger image.)



Do you know the true meaning of patience? Think about it. If you're 20 years old when you get a newly emerged, female, baby _emilia_, you could be approaching retirement when she finally dies! Some bug, no?

You should write your little 8-legged Methuselahs into your Wills!


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## grayzone (Nov 22, 2012)

i LOVE the albos i have.. the female especially (pics in my gallery) 
I would really love a couple vagans, an emilia, and a smithi. I have always admired these 3 (especially after owning the albos) but admittedly have shyed away from them due to their slow growing reputations, and refuse to pay the prices ive seen for adults (although vagans are cheap)

---------- Post added 11-22-2012 at 02:06 PM ----------

hopefully when my giant albo female drops, i can trade huge lots of any slings viable for slings of OTHER sp. of Brachypelma


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## Stan Schultz (Nov 22, 2012)

Chicken Farmer said:


> ... How big of crickets should i be feeding to the slings? they are .5 and .33 . Could you compare the size of cricket to something standard in your house?  or maybe the long type of ibuprofen?


The rule of thumb is that the crickets (or other food) should not be larger than the abdomen of the tarantula. Go by bulk, not by length. As the tarantulas grow they will get much larger than crickets or roaches, but by that time you'll be slowing down on the chow to help control their weight anyway.

The usual practice (consider this too to be a sort of rule of thumb) is to feed babies (those young tarantulas that have not yet gone through the transition to adult care) up to 6 baby crickets a week. That fattens the babies up and forces them to grow fast. This in turn gets them out of the tender, risky baby stage as soon as possible.

After they've gone through the aforementioned transition, slowly reduce their feeding as they age and grow so that as they reach half adult size or slightly larger you're feeding them only about two adult crickets (or body mass equivalent if you're feeding something else) per week. By the time they're adults you can feed them as little as one (1) adult cricket a week (= 4 or 5 a month) and they'll still put on weight.

You need to do your homework! A lot of homework! First, read *Stan's Rant*. Be sure to *READ THE BOOKS!*

Then read *Substrate*.

Then read *Myths*. Be sure to read all the sub-links.

Here is a generic set in instructions for caring for your tarantulas as they grow. To fill in the details you'll need to *READ THE BOOKS!* (Are you noticing a thread developing here?)

*CAVEATS:* Note that the following rules of thumb apply to nearly all tarantulas except a few obligate swamp dwellers, and to the arboreal species, and those are addressed towards the bottom.

*BABY TARANTULAS:* Those younger tarantulas with a diagonal leg span (DLS) of about 1.5" (3.8 cm) or less should be kept in a relatively closed container that heavily restricts ventilation. The substrate should be kept slightly damp. All this maintains a constant, elevated (but not excessive) humidity. Do not mist; instead, reread the last few sentences carefully. Do not spend a lot of time, energy, effort, or money on fancy containers. Like humanoid babies, these will outgrow their containers soon, thereby wasting all your finest efforts over and over again.

*SPIDERLINGS TO ADULTS:* Those younger tarantulas with a DLS of about 2" (5 cm) and larger should be kept in cages with dry substrate and supplied a water dish with clean water. Keep almost all of these as arid species. (See the exceptions below.)

*TWEENS:* Those tarantulas *BETWEEN* the aforementioned two sizes should be gradually acclimatized to a dry cage over a period of 2 or 3 molts. Gradually allow the container/cage to dry out, but be very sure to supply a water dish with clean water. You're gradually removing the higher humidity and substituting a water dish as the primary water source. In response, the tarantula develops a thicker, more impervious waxy layer to prevent excessive water loss from its body. All it needs is a little time to adjust.

Note that many tarantulas from semi-arid and arid places like the American Great Plains and the Kalahari Desert can make this transition much earlier in life than these recommended times. But, it does them no harm to wait a little longer either.

*SWAMP DWELLERS:* These are tarantulas like the species of _Theraphosa_, _Ephebopus_, _Hysterocrates_, _Megaphobema_, and a few others. These do not have the impervious, water retentive exoskeletons of the other tarantulas and require a constant, high humidity. Keep these in "baby" style cages for their entire lives, adjusting for increased size of course.

Enthusiasts are discovering that wild caught "swampers" will gradually develop a somewhat greater resistance to slightly drier conditions if the transition is done slowly and over an extended period of time. And, those swampers that are bred in captivity fare much better and can tolerate drier cages much better than their wild caught brethren.

*ARBOREALS:* Wild caught arboreals (assumed to be adults), particularly members of the genus _Avicularia_ often fare poorly when first brought into captivity, partly because of "shipping shock" and partly because of the sudden change in environmental conditions. To combat this, they should be initially set up and cared for as babies for the first few weeks (initial recovery period), then quickly switched to a "Tweens" care regimen (secondary acclimatization period) for the first one or two molts. Thereafter keep them as adult, arid tarantulas but maintain a slightly elevated humidity by slightly restricting ventilation. Always supply them a water dish. (In the middle of the night as they hunt for food they'll pussyfoot down to the water dish and take a sip. And being sound asleep, you'll never, EVER know it happened!)

Captive bred arboreals (assumed to be babies or very young spiderlings) usually do not suffer the acclimatization problems that the wild caught ones do, but sometimes suffer shipping shock from bad treatment during transportation. When first received they should be kept as babies (see above) for two or three weeks, then they can be quickly changed over to whatever care regimen is appropriate according to the schedule given here, depending on their size and age.


Enjoy your little 8-legged treasures.

---------- Post added 11-22-2012 at 03:29 PM ----------




Chicken Farmer said:


> Now, what kind of environment should each have? Grammostola porteri b. vagan, b. albo. also is the g. porteri like a pet rock?


All the species you mentioned are classic arid species. As babies, treat them as babies. As adults, use a dry cage with a water dish. All this is explained in detail in the books. *READ THE BOOKS.*

---------- Post added 11-22-2012 at 04:06 PM ----------

Sorry, One and All -

I've been off the Web for a few weeks and when I finally got back on I jumped in on this thread a second time, not realizing that I'd addressed most of the issues weeks before. I decided to leave my second responses as is rather than delete them, partly because they answer a few questions that I didn't address the first time around, and partly as a monument to my incompetence! :8o

Enjoy your little 8-legged buddies.


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## Hydrazine (Nov 22, 2012)

I was torn between smithi and emilia when I picked my first Ts - I could get either of them as a 5-6cm "kid", sexed as females. Having thought the tarantulas I selected were my first and last, I chose smithi. (The other Ts being slings - G.pulchra and A.versicolor, both around two and half centimeters yet clearly showing different body builds, and A.geniculata, about 1cm, all measures are DLS - I sorta want to 'raise' my tarantulas from child age, as silly as it might sound  )

Now I'm wondering and pondering - I'm tempted to treat myself to an adult or much-closer-to-an-adult-than-my-current-Ts tarantula, and I'm seriously thinking emilia - they're so lovely! Sometimes I wonder whether I should have picked emilia instead of smithi, but I guess raising an emilia would take even longer  

On the note of growth, I'm starting to wonder when my A.genic will catch up to the smithi, despite the Brachy having a head start, spanning three or four times more and having WAY bigger mass. The tiny guy already moulted, acquiring gray coloration to the legs with visible markings - 1.5-1.7 cm span. And oh boy does (s)he eat vigorously. I have a feeling that raising this one is going to be fun. Little monster already showed (s)he has quite some attitude, too! 

Oh well, getting a bit offtopic with the acanthoscurria. Back to emilia - so far she (yes, if it's more grown up, I definitely want a female, a long time companion) is a candidate #1 but it wouldn't be me if I didn't second guess everything - so I'm checking out alternatives, it doesn't even necessarily have to be a Brachy. Thoughts?


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## jen650s (Nov 22, 2012)

I have B. smithi, B. boehmei, B. vagans, B. emelia, B. albopilosum, and B. angustum, currently.  Multiples of all except the B. boehemi and B. angustum.  All except the albos are hair flickers.  With the B. boehemei and the B. vagans being the worst.  B. emelia next, and my B. smithi and B angustum following.  On occasion I won't get any hairs from the last two, and on others I get an incredible cloud.

All are fairly to extremely slow growing, as slings I feed weekly 2 appropriately sized roach nymphs or crickets; juveniles and adults get a roach or two about every 10 days (give or take).


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## Chicken Farmer (Dec 9, 2012)

Forgot about this thread from this spring... Im not as much of a noobie, but theres still more to learn.


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