# Live Viv for Rosie?



## Sarin (Nov 22, 2012)

Hi,

I will be getting a Rosie in the next few weeks and really want to make a live planted viv for them. I know that usually live vivs require humidity and Rosies do not need such humidity.

I will be using a small aquarium with a lockable screen top, so the humidity can escape. I am just wondering if anyone has done this and if you have any pointers for me in terms of plants, substrate, etc.

Thanks.


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## Stan Schultz (Nov 22, 2012)

Sarin said:


> Hi,
> 
> I will be getting a Rosie in the next few weeks and really want to make a live planted viv for them. I know that usually live vivs require humidity and Rosies do not need such humidity.
> 
> ...


Do you have any perception of what the natural habitat of a Chilean rose looks like? Do you know what plants grow there? What the seasons are like? What is their major source of water? How damp and humid or dry and arid it is, or how these change with the seasons? What the air temperatures are like, month to month? Have you read *Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula*? Have you read *Natural Is Better*?

Be sure to do your homework first.


Enjoy your little 8-legged buddy.

Reactions: Like 1


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## BorisTheSpider (Nov 23, 2012)

Rose hairs come from a region that mostly supports deep rooting desert grasses . A quick Google search leads me to believe that they aren't really vivarium friendly plants . As far as keeping roses happy and healthy just read the following thread . . . . http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?5292 . It will more or less answer any question that you might have about them . Hope this helps .


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## Sarin (Nov 23, 2012)

Pikaia said:


> Do you have any perception of what the natural habitat of a Chilean rose looks like? Do you know what plants grow there? What the seasons are like? What is their major source of water? How damp and humid or dry and arid it is, or how these change with the seasons? What the air temperatures are like, month to month? Have you read *Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula*? Have you read *Natural Is Better*?
> 
> Be sure to do your homework first.
> 
> ...


The very reason why I made this thread... Just starting now.




Thanks Boris. I'll be sure to read that thread.

---------- Post added 11-23-2012 at 10:11 AM ----------

So I read the pages you guys suggested, and am still wondering if it is possible to do what I'd like to do. I just want a simple vivarium with a couple live plants, and a small water area. I am going to a greenhouse which usually has a lot of low water plants. I researched what is toxic and have a list ready. Do you think this would work? I do not want an elaborate lush green waterfall-like vivarium. I know I do not have the right species for this. I just want to make something less boring than substrate and a fake hide.


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## BorisTheSpider (Nov 23, 2012)

I'm sure it'll work . What you might want to consider is doing one of those foam backgrounds . They are fairly cheap to make and I've seen quite a few that look fantastic . A realistic rocky desert environment can easily be achieved . Then just add a little substrate and a few cacti or some air plants and you should have a nice display tank . Experiment a little and be sure research anything that decide to use . You don't want to mistakenly use something that might be toxic . I'm sure that the folks that frequent the live plants forum can fill you in on the best types of plants to use . Good luck and be sure to keep us updated . I would like to see what you end up with when you are finished .


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## Sarin (Nov 23, 2012)

Thanks Boris!

I was actually thinking of doing a clay background. Thanks for the help! I'll definitely update with pictures once it is all set up.


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## BorisTheSpider (Nov 23, 2012)

Sarin said:


> Thanks Boris!
> 
> I was actually thinking of doing a clay background. Thanks for the help! I'll definitely update with pictures once it is all set up.


Clay ? I have never of that . That could be a very cool looking thing . The trouble with foam is making it look like natural stone and not concrete covered foam . Since clay occurs in their natural environment that would basically eliminate that problem . Some careful sculpting and a little drying time and clay could be a new avenue for hobbyists to consider . Keep us updated on how it goes .


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## catfishrod69 (Nov 24, 2012)

Have you ever thought of air plants? You would be able to use them without having to water them, and wouldnt have to worry about your rosea disliking the extra moisture. Ive heard of people using clay, but that seems like it would be very heavy. I have been debating on making a more realistic enclosure, and if i go through with it, ill be using epoxy sculpt.


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## smof (Nov 25, 2012)

Actually air plants DO require watering. It's just that you don't water the roots as you would other plants, you need to put water on their 'leaves'. A lot of sources actually recommend watering them by completely submerging them in water for an hour or two. You can read some info on air plant care here - http://plants.web-indexes.com/airplants/airplants-care.html

I am personally planning to try the same thing as you, Sarin, as I want to refurb my G. rosea and G. pulchra tanks and would like to add in some live plants if possible.

I am thinking some small cacti/succulents and some arid airplants. The succulents I would pot in small flowerpots which I could then bury in the substrate, and that way should be able to water them without making most of the substrate moist. The airplants I would either spray or simply have it so they are easy to remove once a week to do the submerging technique mentioned above.

I think it should be possible to do this in a way that doesn't make the setup too damp for the spider, but until you try it you won't know.


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## Sarin (Nov 25, 2012)

Hi Kate,

That is exactly what I am doing. I picked up a few plants, mostly Succulents. I will keep them potted and water them as necessary.

I looked into the clay background method, even started mixing the clay. However, it looks like it will not work out in a dry tank. 

I am so tempted to try it anyway, but after my research it looks like it'll ultimately crack and fall off of the glass.


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## catfishrod69 (Nov 25, 2012)

Well i never knew that, Thanks. What if you could put the plants on a base that have a magnet and then use another magnet to hold them in place. That way you could easily remove them to water them. 





smof said:


> Actually air plants DO require watering. It's just that you don't water the roots as you would other plants, you need to put water on their 'leaves'. A lot of sources actually recommend watering them by completely submerging them in water for an hour or two. You can read some info on air plant care here - http://plants.web-indexes.com/airplants/airplants-care.html
> 
> I am personally planning to try the same thing as you, Sarin, as I want to refurb my G. rosea and G. pulchra tanks and would like to add in some live plants if possible.
> 
> ...


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## Sarin (Nov 26, 2012)

Hey guys, I think I am experimenting on doing a clay background (for dry species) with my own recipe. So far it seems to be working, I will keep you updated.


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## Sarin (Nov 27, 2012)

Here it is all finished. Let me know what you think. I did a lot of research and tried to replicate what I would maybe see in Chile. I was going to add dried twigs and shrubs however it didn't look nice.







Now just waiting for the entire enclosure to completely dry out before adding the spider. The substrate is currently packed down and damp. There is a peek hole in the hide however there is a tunnel I started for the spider so he/she can escape all light and feel secure.

Reactions: Like 1


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## AbraxasComplex (Nov 30, 2012)

Sorry I didn't hop on this earlier as I have set up a few with G.rosea. Many succulents will work, but they do need a lot of light. I noticed you used a spiderplant. That one probably won't do so as well as expected. If I can recommend a replacement I suggest getting bird nest sansevieria. They can tolerate low and mid range light easily, high if conditioned. They rarely need to be watered and can survive drought conditions for some time. The best thing about this species is that it does not grow more than 6''-9'' tall. I had a couple clusters in my M.balfouri tank for some time and they did great. If your G.rosea webs them up a bit they do not wither and die like more delicate succulents. 

And is that the clay background? I've heard of people using them for dartfrog enclosures, but they crack and shrink if they dry out. Is yours already dry?


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## SamuraiSid (Dec 1, 2012)

I think it looks great, and this is a great reminder for me that plants take time to grow. Im just happy I saw thread because Ive got those same plants and Ive been too nervous to put them in a viv, and Ive been too busy to research the toxic thing.

Just curious, what is the substrate?


And about air plants, Ive got 3 Tillandsia aeranthos pups, and a Tillandsia caput-medusa pup. All I do is give a good misting 2-3x week with distilled water (Only use distilled or rain water with Broms) and they are doing good. To provide a butchered reason, the white film on the foliage is their moisture absobing layer. Hydrophyte has a bunch and will probably be your best bet for info on AB. Im not arguing the soaking thing, but I got the pups from my mom, who bought the parents in 2001 and I follow her care regime. Theres more than one way to skin a cat

IMO, if you want to submerge the air plants to protect the rest of the enclosure from  mistings, mount them on a manzanita branch and just rest it in the enclosure some how, maybe mount all the plants at one end and bury the other end for easy removal.


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## Sarin (Dec 3, 2012)

AbraxasComplex said:


> Sorry I didn't hop on this earlier as I have set up a few with G.rosea. Many succulents will work, but they do need a lot of light. I noticed you used a spiderplant. That one probably won't do so as well as expected. If I can recommend a replacement I suggest getting bird nest sansevieria. They can tolerate low and mid range light easily, high if conditioned. They rarely need to be watered and can survive drought conditions for some time. The best thing about this species is that it does not grow more than 6''-9'' tall. I had a couple clusters in my M.balfouri tank for some time and they did great. If your G.rosea webs them up a bit they do not wither and die like more delicate succulents.
> 
> And is that the clay background? I've heard of people using them for dartfrog enclosures, but they crack and shrink if they dry out. Is yours already dry?


Hi there! I know the Spider plant may not work, I decided to try it anyway. I do not mind if the leaves get burnt as it will add to the fact that it is a desert style enclosure. I kept the plants potted for easy watering. If it dies, I will replace it with another succulent. Thanks for the info!

I had to experiment with the clay background. I made my own homemade clay and molded it to the back of the enclosure, I then removed it and baked it. Then glued it to the back of the enclosure. It worked great, although it needs some tuning as it does shrink and warps in the oven. Trial and error, but I think I may have found a way to have clay in a dry enclosure.





SamuraiSid said:


> I think it looks great, and this is a great reminder for me that plants take time to grow. Im just happy I saw thread because Ive got those same plants and Ive been too nervous to put them in a viv, and Ive been too busy to research the toxic thing.
> 
> Just curious, what is the substrate?
> 
> ...


Hi, I have the bottom layer for a little drainage; the bottom of the plant pots sit on top of it, just in case I over water. It is not a real false bottom but it is enough to let any excess water evaporate slowly on its own.

The substrate above is pure coco fire, mostly there for him to burrow through his hide (also to avoid the light) and to add height to the enclosure so no serious falls occur.

The top layer is a mixture of sand, peat, and coco fibre, as well as loose rocks and loose clay and twigs. I tried to simulate, as best I could, his natural environment. I would've preferred a less loose top substrate, but I couldn't find anything suitable.


Thanks for the comments and support everyone. I just got the T today and hopefully he 'enjoys' his new home.  This is my first T.


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## catfishrod69 (Dec 3, 2012)

What about a Haworthia? Or L. williamsii.


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## Sarin (Dec 3, 2012)

Thanks for the suggestions. I will have a look the next time I am at the nursery.


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## catfishrod69 (Dec 4, 2012)

Hehe i doubt you will find the L. williamsii, but the Haworthi would be east to find.


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## Stan Schultz (Dec 4, 2012)

catfishrod69 said:


> Hehe i doubt you will find the L. williamsii, but the Haworthi would be east to find.


A few (or many, actually) may not appreciate your little joke. As a hint, here are a couple that I had for many years. I bought mine at a greenhouse that specialized in unusual plants. (Click or right-click the thumbnail to see a larger image.)



And they won't work so well because of their high light demands.

Oh! And, what exactly is *Lophophora williamsii*?

...

...

...

...

*Peyote*!


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## catfishrod69 (Dec 4, 2012)

Yeah im sorry i just had to joke for a minute there. Ive heard/read alot of crossed statements on if they are actually legal to own. Also alot of crossed statements on the light requirements too. Most everything i read said they needed well shaded areas, but mine started growing really tall, trying to get to the light. So i had to change its position to recieve better lighting. Also, i wouldnt dare ever use these for what some people do, i found mine the same as you. 





Pikaia said:


> A few (or many, actually) may not appreciate your little joke. As a hint, here are a couple that I had for many years. I bought mine at a greenhouse that specialized in unusual plants. (Click or right-click the thumbnail to see a larger image.)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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