# A Biting Corn snake!



## RichSnake (Jul 6, 2006)

Hi!

Having just the other day bought a new corn snake and never before having owned snakes I wonder if anyone could offer me some advice...

I was told that the snake is about 5 months old and that he should be fed a pinkie just once a week. I have since heard from friends that it should really have maybe two pinkies a week whilst its so young - Is this the case?

Also, on the day I bought him I handled him in the petshop no probs and when I got him home I handled him for about 15 mins as did my neighbour and my friend - again with no probs. Since then though, every time I open the tank to try to get him out his tail starts rattling and he goes to strike me! Call me a coward if you will but I havent been able to bring myself to just delve in there and pick him up as I just know he will bite me!

I know that it probably wont hurt as he's so young but never having been bitten before by a snake I'm just pretty fearful of it! I'm almost at the point where I may take him back to the shop to try to swap him for another one but I'd rather work through this and get over my fear!

Is it normal for a corn snake to want to bite you every time you go near him? I thought maybe he's hungry as he hadnt eaten for 5 days so I have just fed him another pinkie. Do you think that if I try again tomoorw he'll be full up and not want to bite me? lol

Sorry to sound so newbish, but hey - I am! ;-)

Any advice would be gratefully received!

Rich..


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## sick4x4 (Jul 6, 2006)

*it depends*

usally corn snakes dont bite or strike at you as a rule,thats what make them such a good kid snake if there is one..lol,  it might be going into a shed...when you feed your snake do you plop in a pinkie into its tank or do you have a feeding bin??? do you have any other pets in the house??? how many times do you hold it? i have several snakes and some real biters..brazilian rainbow , blood python ect ect...sometimes they just dont want to held...or something could be wrong...


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## Mr_Baker4420 (Jul 6, 2006)

i agree, my kingsnake gets rather fiesty when he's about to shed.


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## Mushroom Spore (Jul 6, 2006)

RichSnake said:
			
		

> I was told that the snake is about 5 months old and that he should be fed a pinkie just once a week. I have since heard from friends that it should really have maybe two pinkies a week whilst its so young - Is this the case?


You should feed one prey item a week or so, about 1 to 1.5 times the girth of the snake at its fattest point, whatever that is. Feeding multiple smaller items gives a poorer ratio of meat to bones/fur/etc. Obviously, do not handle for at least a day after feeding. Stressing a digesting snake can cause a regurge, which does a serious number on their insides.



			
				RichSnake said:
			
		

> Also, on the day I bought him I handled him in the petshop no probs and when I got him home I handled him for about 15 mins as did my neighbour and my friend


Don't take him back and swap him, because odds are good any baby corn will do this. To be honest, you guys probably scared the crap out of him! First day in a brand new environment, and three gigantic unfamiliar-smelling humans are passing him around for fifteen minutes? 

Give him a week or two to settle, establish a feeding routine, and then you're just going to have to take it. Baby snakes are AFRAID, and the only way he's going to learn you won't hurt him is if you prove it. He is physically incapable of even breaking the skin at this point, I'd imagine. Just pick him up quickly, smoothly, and confidently (if you hesitate a lot and move slowly, that's more like a predator). Expose him to no more than one human at a time, for a very few minutes per day. Just let him roam your hand or something. 

Don't handle the day before, day of, and day after feeding, except to put him in the feeding box and then put him back in the enclosure. 

As time goes on, you should be able to handle him for longer periods, and he will become familiar with your scent. My ball python has never stopped being extra shy around people that aren't me--this is always a possibility, and if your corn snake becomes that way, you should respect it.


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## RichSnake (Jul 6, 2006)

Sorry I should have said - When I bought him 3 days ago I was told he was due to shed soon and indeed last night when I came home from work he had shed his skin completely. It came off in one piece perfectly with no holes or tears in the skin.

I have only fed him once since I got him and that was a couple of hours ago (5 days since his last feed). I made sure the pinkie was warm and placed it on a piece of paper which I then placed into his tank. He sniffed it right away and came and ate it without delay! Then when I was putting his hollow rock back into the tank he went for another strike at me!

I do have a cat also who hasnt really noticed the snake yet as the snake is high up on a shelf away from greedy paws.

I have the heat mat covering just half the tank - a water bowl, wood chippoings for the floor and a hideout for the snake. Anything I am missing?


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## Mushroom Spore (Jul 6, 2006)

RichSnake said:
			
		

> Then when I was putting his hollow rock back into the tank he went for another strike at me!


Well, no wonder! At that point, EVERYTHING must have smelled like mouse, and he was already in eating mode. You, being warm and moving when the air smells of mouse, registered as dinner.  



			
				RichSnake said:
			
		

> I have the heat mat covering just half the wank - a water bowl, wood chippoings for the floor and a hideout for the snake. Anything I am missing?


What are the temps in the tank? Reptiles need a specific range, so you DO need two thermometers near/on the floor--one for the warm end, one for the cooler end. The heating pad is *under* the floor and not on the floor, right? (Dumb question, I know, but we've had people make this mistake and it goes badly.)

What kind of wood bedding are you using? And you should have *two* hides for the snake. One on the cooler end, and one on the warmer end. He'll need to be on the warm end to digest his food, and the safer he feels while doing it, the better.


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## RichSnake (Jul 6, 2006)

Mushroom Spore said:
			
		

> To be honest, you guys probably scared the crap out of him! First day in a brand new environment, and three gigantic unfamiliar-smelling humans are passing him around for fifteen minutes?


Yes thinking retrosepectfully that probably wasnt the best thing for me to do on his first day here!



			
				Mushroom Spore said:
			
		

> Just pick him up quickly, smoothly, and confidently (if you hesitate a lot and move slowly, that's more like a predator).


Man you would think that would be easy to do eh - I'm such a coward - lol



			
				Mushroom Spore said:
			
		

> Don't handle the day before, day of, and day after feeding.


Ok.


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## RichSnake (Jul 6, 2006)

Mushroom Spore said:
			
		

> What are the temps in the tank? Reptiles need a specific range, so you DO need two thermometers near/on the floor--one for the warm end, one for the cooler end.


Actually I dont have any thermometres at all - The guy in the pet shop said it wouldnt be necessary as corn snakes are temperate reptiles and dont need extreme temperatures. The heat mat I have is not adjustable in temp either.



			
				Mushroom Spore said:
			
		

> The heating pad is *under* the floor and not on the floor, right?


I have to say the instructions that came with the heat mat said it could be used inside the tank or underneath it but I thought it better to put it underneath - The tank is plastic by the way and not glass.



			
				Mushroom Spore said:
			
		

> What kind of wood bedding are you using? And you should have *two* hides for the snake. One on the cooler end, and one on the warmer end.


Pine Bark chips I believe - As for the 2nd hide I will buy one tomorrow!


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## Mushroom Spore (Jul 6, 2006)

RichSnake said:
			
		

> Actually I dont have any thermometres at all - The guy in the pet shop said it wouldnt be necessary as corn snakes are temperate reptiles and dont need extreme temperatures. The heat mat I have is not adjustable in temp either.


You do need thermometers. Pet shop guys don't know crap, generally speaking. Plus you have NO idea how hot that heating pad is getting--and too much heat can cause hostility in reptiles, I believe. The floor temp over the heating pad should be about 80-85F, for a corn snake. The average heating pad will clock in at around 90+. You can buy a small thermostat to plug the heating pad into.



			
				RichSnake said:
			
		

> I have to say the instructions that came with the heat mat said it could be used inside the tank or underneath it but I thought it better to put it underneath - The tank is plastic by the way and not glass.


Putting the heating pad INSIDE the tank is a good way to burn your snake/cause the substrate to singe and maybe even burn. It's the same reason why heat rocks are such horrible things. You did the smart thing. However, plastic? That may melt, depending on the heat the pad is putting out.



			
				RichSnake said:
			
		

> Pine Bark chips I believe - As for the 2nd hide I will buy one tomorrow!


Pine, as well as cedar, is toxic to most small animals, including snakes. Get rid of it and buy yourself some non-scented aspen or carefresh or something.


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## RichSnake (Jul 6, 2006)

Ok well thanks very much for all your advice! I am going to order a new vivarium (glass), heat mat (adjustable temp), thermometres, non toxic bedding, extra hide and hopefully not a friendlier snake right away!

I think I'll leave him for another day and then just go right in, pick him up, get bit a few times and get over my fear! Seriously - how much can it really hurt!?


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## Mushroom Spore (Jul 6, 2006)

RichSnake said:
			
		

> I think I'll leave him for another day and then just go right in, pick him up, get bit a few times and get over my fear! Seriously - how much can it really hurt!?


If you've ever been scratched by a cat, that would have been about ten times worse than what a wee tiny constrictor-type snake could do to you. They barely even have teeth!  My ball python once mistook a kleenex I was cleaning his tank with for a mouse and tagged me...I didn't even realize it had happened until a few seconds later, and there wasn't even a mark. He was at least two feet long by that point, too.

People have let baby corns gnaw on them long enough to get the camera and take pictures. The only worry you should have is that, when it DOES bite you, you need to be sure you don't drop or reflexively squeeze it. Probably hold it low over the enclosure floor in case you do drop it. 

After the first chomp, it shouldn't be even remotely as scary.  When I first got my baby, I used to jump in instinctive oh-god-bite fear whenever he yawned while I was holding him. Not anymore!


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## Snipes (Jul 6, 2006)

RichSnake said:
			
		

> I think I'll leave him for another day and then just go right in, pick him up, get bit a few times and get over my fear! Seriously - how much can it really hurt!?


Not at all, i was bitten by a 30inch corn whilst i was at college. She bit me becaue she smelled mouse on me. The only part that was bad was just the shock from being bit, because she is a sweety. I could not really even feel it. She left a little blood, but it was super shallow and it was completely healed overnight. here is a pic, it looks WAY worse than it was.


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## pitbulllady (Jul 6, 2006)

MOST baby snakes are much more defensive than adults, since when they're that small, they are pretty much on the menu of every predator around, even many songbirds, and they know it.  With gentle handling, though, they do become used to people and less "bitey" as time goes by.  Also, as many people have already pointed out, if a snake is still in feeding mode, or smells prey, it regards pretty much anything that moves as FOOD.  Most of the bites I've received have been feeding responses rather than defensive bites, and many have been from snakes that otherwise are really calm and good-natured.  They just have a very hearty appetite, LOL!  If you are a bit apphehensive about picking up the Corn with your bare hands, you might want to drape a piece of paper towel or a thin cloth over him first, and pick him up inside that, then allow him to come out and explore your hand.  I would NOT advise using gloves, since it's difficult to control your force of grip with gloves on, and you can easily injure this little tiny thing.  I would also increase his meals to twice a week, while he is young and growing rapidly.

pitbulllady


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## Tleilaxu (Jul 6, 2006)

pitbulllady said:
			
		

> MOST baby snakes are much more defensive than adults, since when they're that small, they are pretty much on the menu of every predator around, even many songbirds, and they know it.  With gentle handling, though, they do become used to people and less "bitey" as time goes by.  Also, as many people have already pointed out, if a snake is still in feeding mode, or smells prey, it regards pretty much anything that moves as FOOD.  Most of the bites I've received have been feeding responses rather than defensive bites, and many have been from snakes that otherwise are really calm and good-natured.  They just have a very hearty appetite, LOL!  If you are a bit apphehensive about picking up the Corn with your bare hands, you might want to drape a piece of paper towel or a thin cloth over him first, and pick him up inside that, then allow him to come out and explore your hand.  I would NOT advise using gloves, since it's difficult to control your force of grip with gloves on, and you can easily injure this little tiny thing.  I would also increase his meals to twice a week, while he is young and growing rapidly.
> 
> pitbulllady


I was just going to say the same thing.


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## scottyk (Jul 6, 2006)

Tleilaxu said:
			
		

> I was just going to say the same thing.


Ditto -But I would like to add a few things.....

Small snakes are naturally defensive of things coming at them from above. I have been very successful in dealing with "youthful agression" by using a small snake hook. You can start out by bending a wire hanger into the right shape and using some tape around the excess wire to create a handle. Gently slide it under the snake about 1/3 of the way back from it's head and lift it up. It wil instinctively bend itself to hang on. The slender wire will be much less upsetting than your big hand reaching down. 

Lower the snake down into your free hand, and it will not bite what's underneath it. At that point you'll eventually get the gentle art of restraining it enough to keep it from falling, while letting it float through your hands until it calms down. This will usually only take a minute or two.

After you feed it, let it stay in the feeding container for about 20 minutes. Have a piece of paper towel in there for it to hide under. Most (not all) snakes will calm down in this amount of time. I do have one corn that stays agressive after eating. If this happens, just use your hook again to gently transfer it back to it's cage. An added bonus to the 20 min wait is it will usually poop in the bare feeding container for you, thus keeping it's home cleaner. Just wipe it up with the paper towel and disenfect it for next time.

Finally, unless your snake was seriously underfed, it should be off pinkies at the 5 month mark. Have them show you some hoppers at the pet store. If they fit within the aforementioned 1.5 x width, pick some up. Pinkies are generally less nutritious, and don't have enough skeletal mass to supply the calcium your snake needs to really start growing.

Keep us posted, and good luck!


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## RichSnake (Jul 7, 2006)

I really appreciate all the responses I have received from my original post. There have been some great tips and advice and I've certainly learnt alot already.

Might I just ask one final question? Its relating to the feeding tank...

As said before I have only fed my snake once thus far and that involved me plopping the pinkie onto a piece of paper and setting that down inside his tank. The idea of a feeding tank is what may I ask? Is it to make sure that the snake doesnt associate his main tank as a place where he should expect food - therefore reducing his urge to bite at anything that comes into that tank?

I will look into starting him feeding on hoppers the next time I get to the pet shop and I have ordered a glass vivarium and other bits to keep him happy now!


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## Mushroom Spore (Jul 7, 2006)

RichSnake said:
			
		

> Is it to make sure that the snake doesnt associate his main tank as a place where he should expect food - therefore reducing his urge to bite at anything that comes into that tank?


This is part of it (and it will keep the tank area from continuing to smell like mouse even after the feeding). It's also because an empty plastic rubbermaid does not have any loose substrate that could stick to the prey and accidentally get eaten along with it. This can hurt the snake, so is obviously something to avoid.  About a year ago I heard of one particularly hungry eater that actually ate a paper towel along with a rat!


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## Midnightrdr456 (Jul 7, 2006)

i do it with my boa b/c of the substrate issue, but both my kind and corn i feed in the tank b/c they have eaten there for years (13 or 14 i think for the king and 8 or so for the corn).  Both are as tame as can be, as are all the snakes my friends have owned and fed in their enclosures.  I dont think feeding in the tank matters much, but you never know.


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## scottyk (Jul 7, 2006)

If you check out a snake forum, the debate over feeding in seperate containers is similar to the one here about handling T's. It goes on and on and it never gets settled because it's mostly a matter of personal preference  Lot's of folks like Midnightrdr, feed in the enclosure and never have a problem.

I like feeding mine in a seperate container for the reasons both myself and Mushroom spore already mentioned. In my opinion, there also are a few other benefits...

1- It gets you and your snake into a regular handling routine.

2- It's easy to do your regular maintenance like picking out dirty substrate and changing out the water while it's eating. This also gives you a place to put him while you're doing full breakdown cleans.

3- The container is there and ready if you need to transport your snake for some reason.

4- It costs like $3 at Big Lots or Wal Mart.

Either way you choose, good luck with him......


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## Tleilaxu (Jul 8, 2006)

For the smaller snakes up to 10 feet it does not really matter whether if they are fed in a seperate container. For the larger snake 10+ it is a wise practice so the snake does not take a swipe at the owner because its excited.


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## Midnightrdr456 (Jul 8, 2006)

yea i only feed my corn and king in their enclosures, my boa is fed outside, b/c #1 i never heard of this when i got my corn/king.  And also b/c once my boa gets about 7 feet i would rather it not mistake me, even if it most likely wont.


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