# Not for beginners?



## BlkCat (Jan 22, 2005)

What Ts arent for beginners? What Ts have to have specific temp and humidity or they will die? What Ts should all beginners not even consider?


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## rosehaired1979 (Jan 22, 2005)

Old world Ts I think are not for beginners but its people preference on what they want to start out with.


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## Fenris (Jan 22, 2005)

A beginer should sitck to docile NW species (Avicularia, Brachypelma, Chromatopelma and others).  You should probably avoid anything from Asia and Africa until you are more comfortable in keeping tarantulas.  They can be extremely fast, agressive and generally have a more potent venom.


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## Apocalypstick (Jan 22, 2005)

I agree, the old worlds are a big no-no!
Most African species and the majority of arboreal species, I feel, are never for a beginner. Some of the other folks on here may disagree, but that's because they forgot what "beginners" are  ;P  They also require more humidity and temp control...need more care. Also, if given a hair of a chance, these guys WILL bite you...period! Some of these also have the strongest venom.

A nice slow terrestrial female would be good. The list for those is long so it depends on how much you wanna spend and which one is attractive to the buyer.

Here's just a few good beginner Ts...but remember, each one has it's own personality and needs... read up !!!!!

b. vagans (very beautuful T)
a. avicularia (great)
b. smithi (likes to throw hairs tho)
g. pulchra (my fav ... very slow grower)
b. albopilosum (commonly called "curly haired")
g. spatula/rosea (Chilean Rose..cheapest, easyest, most common in pet shops... very hardy and calm...borders on boring but great beginner T) 


I'm sure other's can tons more to the list.


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## Garrick (Jan 22, 2005)

I think what BC wanted to know was what species are particularly sensitive.
The majority of available species are easy.
For example, I think Pterinochilus murinus is the "uber pet".  They require little in the way of care, are incredibly adaptable to not only enclosure setups in terms of shape, decor, etc., but temps and humidity as well.  They are super-hardy, colorful, and affordable, too.  In addition, they are far more active than the average G. rosea, and do not have urticating bristles.
However, the majority of P. murinus individuals don't react well to handling.

As far as ones that aren't so easy:

Believe it or not, Avicularia ssp. spiderlings aren't the hardiest. Some die for no reason whatsoever.  They are pretty sensitive to bothy dehydration and illness borne by stuffiness at the same time. 
Montaine species, like P. subfusca, M. mesomalas, etc. wouldn't be wise for a newbie to try to rear. They require a bit of attention to temps.
Fossorials from damp climates like Hysterocrates ssp. (from west Africa), and nearly all Asians (such as Haplopelma ssp.), need a fair amount of moisture.  Said humidity and deep earth requires attention to detail with cleaning.

Again, it depends on your resources and how much time you have to care for them. The cool thing is most need less attention than a pet goldfish.

Garrick
eight


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## becca81 (Jan 22, 2005)

_P. murinus_ was my 2nd, 3rd, and 4th spider and I haven't really had any problems in terms of defensiveness, etc.  

After getting those 3 I went back and got some more NW tarantulas.  It's really up to you and what you want to get.  You should use caution with ANY species, as these are wild animals and unpredictable.

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## Greg Wolfe (Jan 22, 2005)

*Not for the novice...*

Old world T's for sure, as they are quite volatile. Some of the New world T's such as T. Blondi, T. Apophysis, Pamphobeteus and Phormictopus wouldn't be the greatest idea either. 
Ultimately, it is up to the individual what they may choose but when I have a potential buyer and they inquire about this very subject I tell them to stick with the following:
1) Grammastola
2) Avicularia's
3) Brachypelma albopilosum
4) PZB
5) Chromatopelma (GBB)
The novice can always get comfortable with these and then progress to the other more aggressive species. Work your way up to OBT's and the infamous T. Apophysis.
I also inform them that any T can bite if it feels threatened enough but the the more docile species are best to start out with.


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## Cory Loomis (Jan 22, 2005)

I'm keeping over eighty species right now and still don't feel ready for the Therephosas.  Everything I hear indicates they are very moisture sensitive, and I definitely don't need a whiff of airborne ultra-nasty urticating hairs.  Maybe in a year or so....  

Before you buy anything rumored to be difficult, search the boards, then ask specific questions.  I've kept difficult fish, difficult orchids, and difficult snakes.  From what I've seen, nothing is really difficult if you meet all of its requirements.  That's the part that can be difficult.  There are plenty of great tarantulas that are easy, so don't go for difficult until you want to make the commitment in time, effort and money.

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## BlkCat (Jan 23, 2005)

Cory Loomis said:
			
		

> I'm keeping over eighty species right now and still don't feel ready for the Therephosas.  Everything I hear indicates they are very moisture sensitive, and I definitely don't need a whiff of airborne ultra-nasty urticating hairs.  Maybe in a year or so....
> 
> Before you buy anything rumored to be difficult, search the boards, then ask specific questions.  I've kept difficult fish, difficult orchids, and difficult snakes.  From what I've seen, nothing is really difficult if you meet all of its requirements.  That's the part that can be difficult.  There are plenty of great tarantulas that are easy, so don't go for difficult until you want to make the commitment in time, effort and money.


I 2nd that on the Orchids. Did alot of reasearch on them. Got some, and did everything I was told and the flowers still fell off of them..... Irritating. I still dont know what went wrong.  :?

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## Fenris (Jan 23, 2005)

Garrick said:
			
		

> However, the majority of P. murinus individuals don't react well to handling.


That's an understatement!  At least concearning my OBT.  He's a demon!


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## Greg Wolfe (Jan 23, 2005)

*Blondi's and Apophysis...*

These do require more husbandry and maintenance, but are worth the effort.
I keep mine 75-80 during the day and 70F at night. They like ALOT of moisture so I use a large water dish and a humidifier back there on a timer.
I use a gallon of filtered water a day to keep them happy. 
Keeping these more moist can bring on mold and such, so you have to clean out their tanks more often.
There is one that is a pain, is 100% wicked, and a hassle in general and that is my two adult female Apophysis's. They rival any cobalt or OBT, as far as nastiness. Plus their urticating arsenal is nothing to choke at.
 ;P


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## metzgerzoo (Jan 23, 2005)

I too would have to say that it depends on the individual.  What one person feels is right or wrong for them may be the oppisite for someone else.
My first T was a G. rosea, my second was a P. murnius.  Cory makes a very good point in his post and shows very well how each person is different.  I have about 30 different species right now, most of which are OW and I've got 2 sub adult blondi right now.
I would also have to agree though that OW Ts just (IMO) are not a wise choice for first time keepers or those who are not well versed in the different species.


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## squattyanne83 (Jan 28, 2005)

*what do you consider a novice?*

Ive had my first t, a rosie since last august.  I  was looking to expand my collection to a _T. Blondi_ and a _C. Crawshayi _ when i moved back home from college in july.  Is this a bad idea?


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## galeogirl (Jan 28, 2005)

I started with H. gigas, the next ts I got were four T. blondis that I traded some poison dart frogs for.  I had years of experience with aggressive reptiles by the time I got into ts, though, and a threat display from a T. blondi didn't seem so bad when compared to the threat display of a Nile monitor.

If you love OW ts, I say read up on them, get yourself some long forceps, and go for it.  Most of them are easy to maintain, they're just aggressive.  I tend to avoid the NW rainforest ts because they take more work to maintain.


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## strat321 (Jan 28, 2005)

I read mixed messages about Chromatopelma for a newbie.
they look really nice, but not sure if I would get one yet.

an aside-  I had a 3/4" Aphonopelma flagstaff flix hairs at me.  too cute for words!


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## pepperhead85 (Jan 28, 2005)

Well I started off with a Blue Colbalt blue T, and i wouldnt' say thats a bad choice if you don't want to see the spyder much. Mine was about 3 inches nice size, kind of lazy, uses speed once and a while, Built her a burrowing cage out of woods class I like it you can see her go to work. She gots a nice burrow going and since she spends most of her time down there you don't really have to worry about her excaping.


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## Theraphosidae15 (Feb 19, 2006)

I'm thinking of getting a T.Blondi,any first hand info would grate.


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## MRL (Feb 19, 2006)

BlkCat said:
			
		

> What Ts arent for beginners? What Ts have to have specific temp and humidity or they will die? What Ts should all beginners not even consider?


Anything that is expensive.

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## solaceofwinter (Feb 19, 2006)

pokie's or anything super fast/aggressive arent that great to start with.
something like a l.parahybana or a. geniculta would be a great starter imo.


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## Buspirone (Feb 20, 2006)

BlkCat said:
			
		

> What Ts arent for beginners? What Ts have to have specific temp and humidity or they will die? What Ts should all beginners not even consider?


IIRC, The T's that seem to have a reputation for up and dying because you've looked at them wrong would be some or most species in Megaphobema, Pamphobeteus and Xenethis genera. Unfortunatley, I can't speak from first hand experience but this is mostly the impression I've gotten from reading posts and speaking to other keepers who keep them or have kept them and I could be incorrect in my assertion so take the information with a grain of salt and do some additional research if anyone is interested the species from those genera to confirm it. In any case, none of the species in those genera are recommended for novice keepers anyway.





			
				solaceofwinter said:
			
		

> pokie's or anything super fast/aggressive arent that great to start with.
> something like a l.parahybana or a. geniculta would be a great starter imo.


I wouldn't recommend an A. geniculata to a newbie at all. Most A. geniculata have the idea that anything that moves in their enclosure might be food and will strike or grab at it. I've seen mine run over and strike at the water while I was filling up waterdishes or latch on to dishes when I was trying to remove them.  It would set up a poorly equipped and inexperienced keeper for a situation that could result in a bite or in an injury to the spider from the new keeper's reaction. Either way, for the run of the mill newbie its not a responsible recommendation,IMO.  

I could go either way on L. parahybana but generally look at it along with A. geniculata as more of an intermediate species due to its size and its urticating bristles which seem to be a bit more irritating to most people, although not nearly on the same scale as the bristles of T. blondi. These are the species, along with many others, that a newbie would goto after they have kept some Grammastola, Avicularia, Brachypelma, and Aphonopelma species and get a firm foundation in the basics of keeping and managing the beasts before they move on to the more defensive and faster old world species and allows them to enjoy the hobby while spending more time to read and study while preparing for the intermediate/advanced species.


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## solaceofwinter (Feb 20, 2006)

but if you buy them as slings you get to grow in experience with them. 
housing and other needs of a. geniculta and l.parahybana are both easily done. so you cant stick your hand in there and grab something. no biggie. i find my two area about as easy to care for as my g.rosea ever was and are alot more interesting. ;P


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## Buspirone (Feb 20, 2006)

solaceofwinter said:
			
		

> but if you buy them as slings you get to grow in experience with them.
> housing and other needs of a. geniculta and l.parahybana are both easily done. so you cant stick your hand in there and grab something. no biggie. i find my two area about as easy to care for as my g.rosea ever was and are alot more interesting. ;P


Different people catch on faster than others. Most new people don't do well with slings or are afraid to try with out gaining more confidence.  We are dealing with wild animals in captivity that possess venom. The responsible thing to do, especially when dealing with anyone who lacks alot of knowledge and experience, is to make recommendations on the more conservative side of the spectrum. These animals aren't  tightly regulated.......yet. Some people, including myself, believe that as a group of enthusiasts we are only one bad national news story away from heavy regulation or an all out ban. All it takes is one cute little blonde haired, blue eyed kid from a well to do family to get something he/she isn't capable of dealing with and receive a hot bite or an urticating bristle in the eye resulting in blindness or eye loss due to a secondary infection and its a media frenzy and the next great witch hunt. Its easy to forget when you interact on these boards that the majority of the population hates and fears these animals. Invert enthusiasts represent a very tiny portion of the population and are absolutley unequipped to stave off such a scenerio if it were to occur. So far we have been under the radar but the interest in keeping inverts is growing....this board has more than tripled its membship since I joined and new people are showing up faster than ever before.

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## Ms. Peaches (Feb 20, 2006)

My question then would be when do you stop being a begginer. I started with a G. aureostriata  last year on 2-22-05. Then within the last few weeks I decided to expand a bit and I purchased an A. versicolor then a week later A.avicularia then the following week a P. irminia and a B. vagans...and then a B. smithi and then last week a H. lividum. My husband set a limit of 8 (that will change though) So this week I am going to pick up number 8 a P. regalis. 

I still feel like a beginer and I still have a lot of questions but I did my research before I purchased the ones I wanted and have been reading a lot since I purchased the first one. 

I have kept reptiles since childhood. My mother had many reptiles and exposed them to me at a young age. I have kept my own steady collection of snakes and lizards for the last 3 years and over the last year decided to keep mostly boas. Reptiles also require very specific care requirements although different its still habbit to follow what needs to be done for each individual animal, I think this adds to expiernce level as well. 


So with all that said I agree start with something easy to care for, the least venomous, and most docile if you are completely new to the whole hobby..but I am really curious when others think its ok to move from a G. rosea to a H. lividum (just an example) I don't think caring for a Rosie really prepares you for caring for a Cobalt.


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## Drachenjager (Feb 20, 2006)

*A.Anax all the way*

A. Anax is to me the best beginner T there is! I have never ever found one that was agressive, and they are about as hardy as they come. They range from teh rocks of the hill country to the black land prarie in Texas and i have played with these when i was a kid. 
My only problem wiht them is that the are hard to find CB around here probably because they are running wild, however in fewer numbers than i remember as a kid.  Shipping them to me costs too much, but if you want a docile and hardy BHS id get A. Anax. Even if you have to pay 25 bucks for it and 25 to ship. 
Of course you can go to a place like petco and get a G. Rosea for 14.95 or so in varying sizes and totally unknown ages. 
OBT is definatly not a beginner T. In fact it dosent even act like a T more like a demon from hell !! I want one badly but not willing to shell out the greenbacks for one lol Anyone got one they are too scare fo let me know ill adopt it lol


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## Drachenjager (Feb 20, 2006)

*Beginner*

That does present a problem.. When is one no longer a beginner? I would say that is not a matter of time but a matter of confidence and ability in caring for your critters. Having grown up with A. Anax all around me i may be a bit TOO confident as these are prob the most docile Tarantulas i have ever seen. I have an A. Seemani that is very docile but quite skittish she does have a bald butt from kicking hair at me tho lol but they dont bother me at all( in the eye would suck i am sure). But all in all you have to have the disclipline to actually look after them, the knowledge to properly care for them and the wisdom not to try to hand feed an OBT lol .
I dont believe that Testerial T's should be picked up and handled as a matter of course , not even the most docile ones. There is too muck risk of them deciding to run for it and falling to a splat on the floor. That being said, i have picked up and carried many a male wandering A. Anax out of the house or road into the grass where it could continue to look for a mate. and as a kid played with them. But especially for your pet the risk of a splat it too much. 
hmmm
Too long a post lol sorry


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## Buspirone (Feb 20, 2006)

Envy Exotics said:
			
		

> My question then would be when do you stop being a begginer.
> 
> I still feel like a beginer and I still have a lot of questions but I did my research before I purchased the ones I wanted and have been reading a lot since I purchased the first one.
> 
> ...


There is no hard and fast rule when someone stops being a beginner and previous experience with other exotics certainly eases up on an individuals learning curve. A responsible individual will make rational assessements of what they have learned and experienced and decide for themselves if they are ready to attempt a more defensive species or even if the attempt is compatible with their home situation. If we are talking about a child or adolescent then they should be under the supervision of an adult who monitors their progress and decides if they are ready for the responsiblity and challenge of dealing with a defensive species. Long term care and management of mutliple specimens goes a long way to taking someone farther up the ladder because a keeper then experiences first hand the big and small issues that pop up and how to deal with them.  

Now your scenerio of jumping from a G. rosea to an H. lividium is a drastic jump. In my previous post I was saying that there are intermediate species that better prepare someone for moving up to old world species. Some people do fine learning thorough trial by fire but its not a path I'm going feel comfortable recommending to someone who is asking for opinions on a public forum.

If you are concerned about what others think about your experience level you'll see that most people are quick to soften up and respect you if you demonstrate some level of knowledge and responsiblitly. It becomes obvious quickly when someone is moving too fast but thats also something they can do  if they want but it  doesn't mean anyone else has to encourage or help them if they are being irresponsible and pose a risk to themselves or others.


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## Pandora (Feb 20, 2006)

Well, here just my two pences.

I think beginner can gain absolutely any spider provided that he know all of possible to know about him. Except this the spider must be a sling or juv to get accustomed to his behaviour while he small.

As for me, I begun keep the spiders in such sequence — Phormictopuu+Heteroscodra, then Poecilotheria+Pterinochilus, and afterwards Grammostola+Brachypelma. At the beginning I wished to keep aggressive and very toxic spiders. And now I'm happy that nobody has discouraged me from this!


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## Ms. Peaches (Feb 20, 2006)

I also feel that the reason you want to keep Tarantulas at all plays a big part in what you keep as well. If you are serious about keeping them you will follow all the proper procedures for care and safety, do all the nessasary research read all they can, talk with other keepers personal expierences with keeping the species they are interested in keeping, becuase what is writen can never fully prepare you for keeping them yourself. Some part of expiernce can only be gained hands on. I started with a beginer T becuase I didn't get into them for myself, it was purely for my son's interest in them mine developed later. So starting with a beginer T mostly just pushed me to research, gain knowlege, and ask questions I couldn't find the answers for (with the Chaco that was basically none) It however did not prepare me for the T's I decided to get next. They move differently, the react differntly, you have to approach them differently. Other then the basics they vary so much its like keeping a completely different creature.  I am in no way suggesting newbies shouldn't start with the suggested beginer T's. I just think that there is more needed to move up..simply keeping a Rosie or Chaco  succsesfullyfor 6 months 12 months won't help you when you decide you now want something more advanced. I think it makes you more comfortable with keeping T's in general though. I also think instinct and safety techniques are what help people succesfully keep the more aggressive species. All this is just my oppion. I think people out there looking to get into T's need to think about more then just what is the easiest species to keep. Some day I hopefully will become more of a advanced keeper and be able to offer advice and answer questions...but for now. I am happy just learning, reading, and getting the hands on I need at home. I haven't found this forrum very warm to beginers but I do find it as a much needed source of information.

Please don't take this as a post saying I think all newbies should run out an get any of the advanced T's..just saying research gives you knowledge while hands on gives you expierence. I agree new people should start with the suggested T's and avoid the more aggressive harder to keep ones.


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## swanton (Feb 26, 2006)

i've had a pinktoe for a few months now, it's my first T but it's been acting different than usual. usually when i put crickets in the tank it's immediately begins attacking and eating. and the last time it molted it had eaten about 3 crickets the day before but today i put crickets in and they were walking right by him and he didn't move in fact a couple of times he jerked back and climbed the side of the tank away from them.
i was wondring if maybe he was getting ready to molt again or maybe he's just not hungry but i fed him last a week ago.

also i have a humidity gauge. is there a dangerously low humidity level for pinktoes or tarantulas in general?


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## SpiderZone2 (Feb 26, 2006)

The GBB is very very easy to care for. Just give it a nice place to hide in. The don't burrow and are very colorful. The eat rather well except during molting time. They don't have attitudes like most. Any T can have an attitude depending  on the situation. From a little 1 inch sling to a full grown adult T it only took 8 months for me to have a mature one. I did end up with a male which I have loaned out for breeding. I love them and will have more and more of them when I can get them.


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## Sevenrats (Feb 27, 2006)

I have just recently got an OBT and after having A. seemani and G. rosea for a long time I must say that I think that the OBT is really easy to keep. 

I don't think it makes a bad beginner spider at all as long has you don't screw with it and respect it's speed and defensiveness. You can't kill the thing. Wet, dry, hot, cold, it doesn't matter. They grow fast, web up nice and are good looking. They're cheap and easy to find too. 

You can't hold them and they hide alot but hey that describes the A. seemani too. Actually if you don't give it anyway to burrow but give it a piece of bark or something they'll make they're own hide with web and that's really cool. 

I hold my rosea like once a year when I change the substrate so what's the diff if you're careful?


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## RottweilExpress (Jun 22, 2006)

So how do you most effectivly move your OBT from the tank when changing substrate or making larger changes to it's environment? As opposed to picking your rosea up =)


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## rattler_mt (Jun 22, 2006)

i love threads like this and i see similar ones on most forums i visit.

my basic answer has always been it depends on the individual, me for example: reguarding carnivorous plants, been at it for over 4 years straight now(dabbled in them before that) i am growing some of the "difficult" species with ease and am not sure why, weither they are from steamy lowland swamps or cool mountain tops most of the rare and difficult establish well for me and some become weeds. however there are a few species commonly recommended for beginers and i can kill them off faster than anyone.

i have also kept dart frogs for a few years, simple to keep if yah understand them and have a bit of a green thumb. most of my frogs have been in their tanks for over a year without being touched by me, infact this morning for a school talk was the first time one of my Suri cobalt tincs has left its tank since i recieved it 15 months ago. 

im now a newbie twords T's and scorps and have my own opinions of what i want, i have zero interest in holding the animals, i enjoy watching behaviors and taking pictures. i would be more interested in an agressive species thats out alot so i can watch it and take photos of it through the glass or with part of the top off than a nice docile species that i can handle which is probably going back to a few years with dart frog keeping of "look but dont touch". granted most T's are borderline in fitting my needs as most are actually quite lazy when well fed but the colors of Avic's are drawing me to them but the various babbons with their agressive habits and feedings is quite interesting also. course even though they are just a "pet hole" cobalt blues have my attention...............now i just have to decide where I want to start and where my comfort level is and get one......................................of each


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## dymndgyrl (Jun 22, 2006)

Envy Exotics said:
			
		

> ..but I am really curious when others think its ok to move from a G. rosea to a H. lividum (just an example) I don't think caring for a Rosie really prepares you for caring for a Cobalt.


Well, if you're curious, then I'll tell you because that is exactly what I did. I, too, have had a wealth of experience with other exotics. I also spend _alot_ of time resarching on this and other forums. All the information is there - all the warnings are there - all the saftey measures, anecdotes, opinions, facts. 

I'm a begginner, yes, but I feel like I know what to expect with my cobalt blue, and probably, because I have a certain amount of fear it's possible that I may be _more_ cautious around her than others who may have grown complacent around their T's over time.

Also I'm in my 40's, have no children around, don't handle my T's and never will and have money to spend on whatever is needed for my hobby. 
Not all beginners fit the same mold, just as not all "experienced" keepers know what they're doing either.


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## Marilyn (Jun 22, 2006)

Cory Loomis said:
			
		

> ...............therephosas.  Everything I hear indicates they are very moisture sensitive, and I definitely don't need a whiff of airborne ultra-nasty urticating hairs.  ..........



no you dont,,  it's evil stuff,,


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## ShadowBlade (Jun 22, 2006)

*It depends on WHO U ARE!*

This is a hard question to answer, each person can be subjected to different advice.

If your a teenager, with no experience at all with caring for animals, then start with a young New World, (3"+)

If your a mature, responsible adult, that's been breeding exotic pets, and caring for exotic cages, get practically whatever sp. u want!

Each person can be anywhere inbetween. Take me for example. When I got started, my entire life had been devoted to inverts since I was 12 I'd been Handling and breeding Fishing Spiders, Jumpers, Wolf Spiders etc... And catching snakes, had an iguana...
I heeded everyone's advice about not getting fast/jumpy spiders... Everyone said they were crazy... uh-uh. Fishers and Geckos are FAST!! Tarantula's speed and aggression never surprised me in the least.


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## maarrrrr (Jun 23, 2006)

i think you could start with anything you want as long as you have carefully studied what is required for their care. i started out with 3 h. lividums and i never had any problems.


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## Scolopendra55 (Jun 23, 2006)

I would recomend a medium sized new world terrestrial T such as a P.scrofa, G.rosea or G.pulchra.


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## Chilkootmom (Oct 2, 2006)

*Suggestions on a second T?*

I have a Rosie at the moment and find that she is just Lovely but really boring.  Any suggestions on a semi-easy - not so rock like - T?  Im still new at this but am really learning a lot...although the scientific lingo just wont stick ;o)  I would really like to get another one just not sure what to get.  

Linda


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## Ando55 (Oct 2, 2006)

Chilkootmom said:


> I have a Rosie at the moment and find that she is just Lovely but really boring.  Any suggestions on a semi-easy - not so rock like - T?  Im still new at this but am really learning a lot...although the scientific lingo just wont stick ;o)  I would really like to get another one just not sure what to get.
> 
> Linda


What about a G.pulchra or a G. aureostriatum, they should both be more active then the Rosea while keeping similar temperament.  If it's one T i can choose to start with it would be the Chaco (G. aureostriatum) for it's size and docile attitude.  Going back to the thread title.. I think OW T's are a no no until experience is built on the keeper.


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## Chilkootmom (Oct 3, 2006)

Is a Brazilian White Knee considered a OW T?


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## ShadowBlade (Oct 3, 2006)

Chilkootmom said:


> Is a Brazilian White Knee considered a OW T?


No, Brazil is New World.

New World T's are from the America's,
and Old World T's are from Asia and Africa. 

(Are we going include Australia as OW now??)


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## Cory Loomis (Oct 3, 2006)

It was interesting to see this thread come up again and to see my comments, especially a week after my T. blondi male (8") molted.  I still hate those hairs, but I got him less than six months after that post.  I still say find out what "it" needs then make sure you can meet those needs before you buy "it".  If you do that, you'll seldom be disappointed.


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## becca81 (Oct 3, 2006)

ShadowBlade said:


> No, Brazil is New World.
> 
> New World T's are from the America's,
> and Old World T's are from Asia and Africa.
> ...


Yes, Australian tarantulas are OW, as are ones from Africa, Asia, and Europe.


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## pedipalps (Mar 16, 2007)

I think _Haplopelma spp_. and _Poecilotheria spp_. are not begginer's T's because of their agresiveness and fast movements. I also read that some pokies has greater potent venom effect. Better yet, you have to research to get good information.


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## phil jones (Mar 16, 2007)

:[is it me but alot of this seems a bit old ?  :? then i guess things comes around from time to time


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## Jennifer (Aug 22, 2008)

*Adding to the collection..*

We currently have a pink toe, and are going to expand our collection with a mexican red knee, but are offered a freebie T.  One of the options was a Brazilian Salmon (lasiodora parahybana).  Was really looking for some more input on this species (other than there size).  They are about 1/4", both species.  This will be our first little ones.

Yes, it seems I have pulled this thread out of the moth balls  .


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## ThistleWind (Aug 22, 2008)

Jennifer said:


> We currently have a pink toe, and are going to expand our collection with a mexican red knee, but are offered a freebie T.  One of the options was a Brazilian Salmon (lasiodora parahybana).  Was really looking for some more input on this species (other than there size).  They are about 1/4", both species.  This will be our first little ones.
> 
> Yes, it seems I have pulled this thread out of the moth balls  .


Go with L. parahybana, the "poor man's blondi". I bought my first LP last week and it's very active and a good eater. Only set me back $20 (1-1/2"). She uses her provided hide but kicked all the substrate out of it. She also spent the first couple nights bulldozing substrate to suite her preferences. I think she is my favorite because out of all of my T's, she has the most personality. I still can't believe she'll be 6" in less than a year. This species grows _very_ fast. Reaches a 10" legspan. Good luck.


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## Aurelia (Aug 22, 2008)

Jennifer said:


> We currently have a pink toe, and are going to expand our collection with a mexican red knee, but are offered a freebie T.  One of the options was a Brazilian Salmon (lasiodora parahybana).  Was really looking for some more input on this species (other than there size).  They are about 1/4", both species.  This will be our first little ones.
> 
> Yes, it seems I have pulled this thread out of the moth balls  .


This species is a bit skittish but not really mean (although I guess it depends on the individual spider.)  I wouldn't say they're a "not for beginners" species, they're just not pet rocks like a lot of other beginner species and they have a voracious appetite. If I'm not mistaken, B. smithi can be rather skittish too, so they can be compared.  I say get the L. parahybana!


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## ThistleWind (Aug 22, 2008)

They are definitely skittish. If my LP is out, I don't open the lid (the lid POPS open - Gladware container) because it disturbs her and she runs around the enclosure. But if she's in the hide, she feels safe and secure and doesn't move if I pop the lid open. Just be careful, as you are with all _wild_ animals. The LP has an impressive arsenal of urticating hairs.


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## Jennifer (Aug 23, 2008)

*Thank you..*

Just wanted to thank you for the info :worship:


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## Scorpionqueen20 (Jun 25, 2010)

I totally agree!  As long as you have done your studies and are well prepared and informed, you should be able to get any one you want and have little problems.  Above all, no matter how long you have had T's or how much you know, the number one thing is respect.  You have to have respect and realize they are instinctual.  They will be T's from the day you get them until the day they die, not little kittens you can pet.  So always be cautious and again - Have respect.


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## jcrow209 (Jun 26, 2010)

If temp/humidity are a concern I wouldn't suggest any Avic sling.If getting bitten was a concern, I wouldn't suggest any Poecilotheria species. Any T could potentially bite you, but pokies are quick and there bite is nasty.That being said, I own 4 P. regalis and an A. avicularia, too!


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## Steve Calceatum (Jun 26, 2010)

Scorpionqueen20 said:


> I totally agree!  As long as you have done your studies and are well prepared and informed, you should be able to get any one you want and have little problems.  Above all, no matter how long you have had T's or how much you know, the number one thing is respect.  You have to have respect and realize they are instinctual.  They will be T's from the day you get them until the day they die, not little kittens you can pet.  So always be cautious and again - Have respect.


There are always exceptions:
_Stromatopelma calceatum_

This particular sp. is more like a monster on eight legs, rather than a tarantula. The S. cal is an uber-fast arboreal with a demonic temper, and their bite is definitely hospital-worthy. Though a beautiful and hardy captive, the S. cal is in a league of it's own on the defensive scale. Not recommended for the absolute beginner!!!!

On the other hand......when you're ready, there's no real reason not to have one!!! 








I kind of miss having this one around........


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## gumby (Jun 26, 2010)

Just remember your T has not been reading the same books and threads you have so it may not know it is suposed to be docile!


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## PrimalTaunt (Jun 26, 2010)

gumby said:


> Just remember your T has not been reading the same books and threads you have so it may not know it is suposed to be docile!


Good point.  I'll be sure to put TKG and various AB thread on their summer reading lists.


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## jb62 (Jun 26, 2010)

Greg Wolfe said:


> Old world T's for sure, as they are quite volatile. Some of the New world T's such as T. Blondi, T. Apophysis, Pamphobeteus and Phormictopus wouldn't be the greatest idea either.
> Ultimately, it is up to the individual what they may choose but when I have a potential buyer and they inquire about this very subject I tell them to stick with the following:
> 1) Grammastola
> 2) Avicularia's
> ...


Why is this number 3 ?  Brachypelma albopilosum


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## brian abrams (Jun 30, 2010)

*B Albo*

They are # 3, because they are among the most docile of T's.


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## mickey66 (Jul 2, 2010)

*Just my 2 cents.....*



Buspirone said:


> There is no hard and fast rule when someone stops being a beginner and previous experience with other exotics certainly eases up on an individuals learning curve. A responsible individual will make rational assessements of what they have learned and experienced and decide for themselves if they are ready to attempt a more defensive species or even if the attempt is compatible with their home situation. If we are talking about a child or adolescent then they should be under the supervision of an adult who monitors their progress and decides if they are ready for the responsiblity and challenge of dealing with a defensive species. Long term care and management of mutliple specimens goes a long way to taking someone farther up the ladder because a keeper then experiences first hand the big and small issues that pop up and how to deal with them.
> 
> Now your scenerio of jumping from a G. rosea to an H. lividium is a drastic jump. In my previous post I was saying that there are intermediate species that better prepare someone for moving up to old world species. Some people do fine learning thorough trial by fire but its not a path I'm going feel comfortable recommending to someone who is asking for opinions on a public forum.
> 
> If you are concerned about what others think about your experience level you'll see that most people are quick to soften up and respect you if you demonstrate some level of knowledge and responsiblitly. It becomes obvious quickly when someone is moving too fast but thats also something they can do  if they want but it  doesn't mean anyone else has to encourage or help them if they are being irresponsible and pose a risk to themselves or others.


 I have to agree with this post and what I have found out over the past year or so is this....don't mess with them! I mean,enjoy them,watch them,feed them but don't mess with them! I have 13 T's some kicked hair alot and some are skittish and I just didn't mess with them and after awhile they calmed down. It’s all about boundaries! Well, that's my 2 cents.


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## loudan (Jun 7, 2011)

Theraphosidae15 said:


> I'm thinking of getting a T.Blondi,any first hand info would grate.


they kick hairs really bad


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## Hatr3d (Jun 7, 2011)

http://files.sharenator.com/i_lol_d_To_our_sharenator_Veterans-s347x393-173831.jpg


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## recluse (Jun 8, 2011)

My first T was an adult female P. murinus.


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## Kazahmish (Aug 14, 2011)

My first and second T's were B-Smithi's.. the first was about 2-3 years old.. female and the second was still really young.. no color, in fact it took about 3 molts to start to show any color... I got the first from a pet shop where I knew the guy well and he set me up really nice for about 30 bucks, the second one was found at a pet shop that was going out of business and wanted to unload everything, so I got it for about 3 bucks with a Critter Keeper.. I did a lot of reading on T's and felt that I had a good idea, and the  pet shop owner friend helped out. however I found out recently that just about all he told me was wrong in most every way, such things were like, misting the tank daily acting like a rain storm at times. (heavy). the use of heating pads under the tank, vermiculite only as a substrate, feeding them every day.. I could go on..  my third T was a Cameroon Baboon, but it was ill when I got it and didn't live long, but the pet shop let me get a Sunburst Baboon at a discount.. and WOW.. he was aggressive.. I had been collecting T's about 3 years by then and felt I could handle it..  never got bit, but came very close a couple times..

now 8 years later I am diving back into collecting, in Sept when the temps get cooler I will be getting another B-Smithi (LOVE THEM) and perhaps a LP sling... and of course you know I won't be stopping there.. lol I would have LOVED to get a GBB.. but can't find one for sale.. so perhaps down the road.  eventually I want a T-Blondi.. always have..  I know it is bad to think this, but when I get the trailer all my own I will convert the front bedroom into a T room with a controllable temp/humidity.


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## Ben Oliver (Aug 15, 2011)

i have 5 t's now my first was a g. pulchripes 5.5" female she wasn't like everyone said calm and slow moving easy to deal with she is and can be nasty try to bite. and my second was a avic avic this one was true to peoples sayings fast, poops when you take it out and jumpy. my third was g. pulchripes sling so far this one is calm and doesn't move fast or kick hairs. my fourth is a h.lividum we all know that these guys can and will get nasty. and my fifth was a g. rosea. every person can handle different things it all depends on what the person has set in their mind to get and they will. even if people have the information in front of them they can and do make the wrong choices of critters to keep.


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## timeflies (Aug 17, 2011)

IMHO a g rosea is definitely the best starter pet they are usually docile and have a very mild venom, that aside if you want to you can have any kind of T as your first. I have an obt and and am getting a regalis very soon but i am taking some serious precautions with the obt like some weight on the cover to prevent escapes and such. Just my two cents.


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## Dana C (Oct 21, 2011)

*Lasiodora difficilis*

I currently have a Smithi, a Rosea, G Pulchripes, a A. New River and a curly hair sling, (very seldom seen, always in it's burrow.)
I want to move on and have found a 4.5" Lasiodora difficilis female for sale.  I have read all I can find about these guys, which isn't much.
habitat and care are pretty straight forward but what about temprement?  I saw a picture on You Tube of a guy's difficilis on his arm.
What can you tell me about them.  I would like to keep one of the really big T's and your recommendations would be very helpful.
Thanks,
Dana

---------- Post added 10-21-2011 at 09:32 AM ----------

Oh and how big an enclosure would be required?


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## Organophosphate (Oct 21, 2011)

I have a Theraphosa that is nice, never flicks hairs and never tries to bite. I have a rosey from hell that would kill me if she could. All my lasiodoras have their own unique personalities....some are easy and some crazy. 

This is a horribly subjective question! 

Read and learn, pick one you think is interesting, read some more, set up the enclosure, read more, buy one and make sure all the basics are ok, food, temp, humidity....don't try to handle it until you know what is personalty is like and that's if you even ever hold it...keep reading and learning.


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## Dana C (Oct 22, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback.  I haven't been at this for long but I do my research.  I found a L. parahybanas 
today, a 6.5" female for $70. I bought her and a adult female rosea for an additonal $10.  I have read alot of information about the L. Parahybanas but could not find much about Difficilous.  I know they are more agressive in terms of Urt kicking but are reluctant to bite.  I also saw some pics of Parahybanas being held.  As you say it seems the individual tempraments vary from T to T and can change after a molt...the evil twin takes charge.  The alure of a giant is like a Siren song in the Iliad.
I just have to have one.
Dana

---------- Post added 10-21-2011 at 11:11 PM ----------

I have an A. New River, a 4" female.  After two weeks in her new home, (my house), settled down and is very docile. As to buying more T's and moving up so to speak.  I started a few months ago and was hooked.  I am semi retired so I have a lot of time to do research. I now have a Chaco Golden Knees, (G. Pulchripes), a Rosea, a B. Smith and a B. Albopilosum. I will take delivery on a L. parahybana and another Rosea, (package deal) and a G. Inheringi along with a Avicularia Metallica 5" female.  I chose these based upon alot of reading.  The L. Para is not reccomended for beginners BUT if a person has mastered a couple of other T's AND reads / learns, keeping one is doable. 
 What I observe on this and other boards are people buying T's, not learning in depth about what they bought or buying an OW species that wants to take your life every chance it gets. It is akin to someone wanting to buy a really large, Goliath T, and a Blondi sounds really cool but they have no idea what they are like.  They assume that they are like the G. Rosea's shown being handled at county fair.
When I ordered my 6.5 " L Para female today, I knew that she would be huge.  I knew her urt hairs are possibly the most irritating of the NW Ts and that she could eventually have fangs that approach 1".  Some can be gingerly handled and most can't at all.  Never the less I layed down the Pay Pal and can't wait to have her.  I want to log her appetite, her molts, her growth, her temprement, etc.

I guess what I am driving at is that to say what is or isn't a good choice is entirely up to the intelligence and research one does when they really get into this hobby and get to know these wonderful creatures.
Dana


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## Ryancw93 (Oct 22, 2011)

I wanted an L.P. as my first T, but I also kept hearing how defensive they are. Numerous people said that they would flick their nasty hairs and throw a threat pose every time something moved. I turned away from this and got an A. Versi, and a GBB. Couldn't be happier! They both are very colorful, always webbing, and almost always out in the open. My Versi spends most of its time in its web, but only keeps its hind legs hidden so I can always see it. A Versicolor needs to be kept moist and humid which can be irritating at times, but my GBB can go days without attention and build a webbed house. Overall, NW terrestrial T's are probably a better choice for a beginner, but some of them can be painfully boring and you will end up getting a new T within a month. Do not get a pet rock as your first T.


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