# Failing Blondi mating, why?



## RottweilExpress (Oct 25, 2010)

So.

I've got 3 blondi females, and one male. They are not related, at least not the male with the girls. He's adult now. He's spun sperm net. He's been drumming next to the females, and especially one has answered him and comes out against the glas to greet him. They fondle, but he leaves. HE LEAVES. In the beginning he rushed out, but now they mingle fondly and stridulates and he leaves after a while without finishing. I'm sick of it. 

The other two gals has been less succesful even. One is scared and the other doesn't leave her den, although she reares up in there. He's a screwup! What am I to do? I'm sooo fed up failing this species. 

Other facts;

Yes, it's moist in there.
Yes, it's late in the year and winter is coming outside.
It's about 22-24 degrees C in here.


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## AbraCadaver (Oct 25, 2010)

Put viagra in his water? 

No, but seriously, I don't think theres anything you can do. How big are the girls? Are you sure they're "ready"?


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 25, 2010)

AbraCadaver said:


> Put viagra in his water?
> 
> No, but seriously, I don't think theres anything you can do. How big are the girls? Are you sure they're "ready"?


They are indeed mature.


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## Fran (Oct 25, 2010)

Hm go up to 27-28 C, they will be more active. that might help.


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 25, 2010)

Fran said:


> Hm go up to 27-28 C, they will be more active. that might help.


I don't think so, they are active enough. They are in the mating fondle, he just doesn't <EDIT -MrI> finish it. He even tries to exit before the willing females can caress him enough. 

I'm starting to suspect he's not really attracted for some reason. Any mixups with the "new breeds" and what not perhaps? And how would I know if it were? Is it an obsticle if it is? Would they still mate? What is happening?!?! :barf:


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## Fran (Oct 25, 2010)

RottweilExpress said:


> I don't think so, they are active enough. They are in the mating fondle, he just doesn't <EDIT -MrI> finish it. He even tries to exit before the willing females can caress him enough.
> 
> I'm starting to suspect he's not really attracted for some reason. Any mixups with the "new breeds" and what not perhaps? And how would I know if it were? Is it an obsticle if it is? Would they still mate? What is happening?!?! :barf:


Well, they are nowere near 22C in the wild (mating season is between May and august, i believe) But hey, Up to you.


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## JC (Oct 25, 2010)

Take  Fran's advice.


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## pato_chacoana (Oct 25, 2010)

Do you have molt records of females? Do they have hides or burrows? How exactly is their behavior towards the male (aggressive, nervous, what?)?? Does the male drums or ''shakes'' when is in the females cages? I would also suggest to raise day temps to 27-28 C with cooler nights 22-24 C.

Pato-


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## Fran (Oct 25, 2010)

^^^ Up there is the advice of someone who has been knee deep on the jungle canopy.


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## kenzie (Oct 25, 2010)

Aslo, are you 100% sure you have "females"? We had some guaranteed "females" too and were having rotten luck as well breeding ours. Our male strummed and would get our girls out and would touch each other quite a bit, but never could make it through the entire process. Well, our females shortly there after molted, and turned out they all were mature males! We even had some credible sources confirm they were female. imagine our shock. Just saying...


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## Poxicator (Oct 26, 2010)

I take it you're sure they're T. blondi and not sp. Burgundy?


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 27, 2010)

Poxicator said:


> I take it you're sure they're T. blondi and not sp. Burgundy?


I take it you did not read the thread.


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 27, 2010)

pato_chacoana said:


> Do you have molt records of females? Do they have hides or burrows? How exactly is their behavior towards the male (aggressive, nervous, what?)?? Does the male drums or ''shakes'' when is in the females cages? I would also suggest to raise day temps to 27-28 C with cooler nights 22-24 C.
> 
> Pato-


No records of molts, but I have been around to know when they last molted approx. 

The male drums single beats in his plastic box next to the most likely breedable female. And she answeres time and time again by coming out and standing by the glass. When they are introduced they both shake and cautiosly approach each other, then fondle and he raises her a bit. Then after a couple of minutes he backs away and leaves, without insertion. There's not much for me to add. I've mated several species before and this is...the same. But fails.  

Temp, yes....but....this willing behavior should not be staved by the temp. I understand that the wrong temp might affect the sack, but...this is courtship.


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 27, 2010)

Fran said:


> ^^^ Up there is the advice of someone who has been knee deep on the jungle canopy.


So have I.


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## Fran (Oct 27, 2010)

Then you should know better about temps 

And temps can perfectly  affect the pairing.


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## Versi*JP*Color (Oct 27, 2010)

RottweilExpress said:


> No records of molts, but I have been around to know when they last molted approx.
> 
> The male drums single beats in his plastic box next to the most likely breedable female. And she answeres time and time again by coming out and standing by the glass. When they are introduced they both shake and cautiosly approach each other, then fondle and he raises her a bit. Then after a couple of minutes he backs away and leaves, without insertion. There's not much for me to add. I've mated several species before and this is...the same. But fails.
> 
> Temp, yes....but....this willing behavior should not be staved by the temp. I understand that the wrong temp might affect the sack, but...this is courtship.


So does he just hold her up?
After a couple minutes he should have been at least trying to insert.


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 27, 2010)

Yup, one would think that.

I'll try to raise the temp somehow.


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## Poxicator (Oct 27, 2010)

RottweilExpress said:


> I take it you did not read the thread.


mmm! strange answer, considering.
Let me put it a different way. Have you checked the identity of the Theraphosa that you have, male and females? Do you know how to tell the difference between blondi and sp. burgundy?

You mention you have been around since the moults. Are you aware of Ray Gabriel's indication that the most successful mating appeared within the first month of both male and female moults?


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 28, 2010)

RottweilExpress said:


> I'm starting to suspect he's not really attracted for some reason. Any mixups with the "new breeds" and what not perhaps? And how would I know if it were? Is it an obsticle if it is? Would they still mate? What is happening?!?! :barf:





Poxicator said:


> mmm! strange answer, considering.
> Let me put it a different way. Have you checked the identity of the Theraphosa that you have, male and females? Do you know how to tell the difference between blondi and sp. burgundy?
> 
> You mention you have been around since the moults. Are you aware of Ray Gabriel's indication that the most successful mating appeared within the first month of both male and female moults?


Yes, I am aware. But I'm not aware how to tell between burgundy and "ordinary" blondi, so that could help.

I just tried to mate the most receptive female again this morning. Ive never seen such a willing lady, follows him around like a lapdog...But he evades her after some fondling, like before.


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## Poxicator (Oct 28, 2010)

Take a read of this, it might explain why you're not getting the correct response:
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=180626


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 30, 2010)

Ok, my oldest and biggest of the three females molted tonight. So now all three has molted within 3 month.

I've looked at the links posted here, and all I can say is that I've had several big female apophys, and would NOT mistake them for a blondi. However, burgundy or not might prove more of a challange.

The male is drumming RIGHT now, and the closest female has exited her cave and is searching for him by the glas. I'll introduce them again, but I know how it will end....


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## Falk (Oct 30, 2010)

The easiest way to se the diffierence between the blondi and burgundy after juvenile is the lack of patella setae at the burgundy. The real blondi have very hairy knees.

The burgundy also have white tarsus on their front legs slings-juvenile.

I´ve had the same problem with mating _G. pulchra_, the female was very willing but the male did the same thing as yours almost every time and i tried aprox 10 times. Sometimes he ran like crazy even thou the female was very very calm.


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 30, 2010)

Falk said:


> The easiest way to se the diffierence between the blondi and burgundy after juvenile is the lack of patella setae at the burgundy. The real blondi have very hairy knees.
> 
> The burgundy also have white tarsus on their front legs slings-juvenile.
> 
> I´ve had the same problem with mating _G. pulchra_, the female was very willing but the male did the same thing as yours almost every time and i tried aprox 10 times. Sometimes he ran like crazy even thou the female was very very calm.


Tjena Falk

Yesh, I read it. But that would mean that about every blondi I've ever seen in the "swedish" (german) hobby is a burgundy...


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## Falk (Oct 30, 2010)

RottweilExpress said:


> Tjena Falk
> 
> Yesh, I read it. But that would mean that about every blondi I've ever seen in the "swedish" (german) hobby is a burgundy...


Could be As i understand these "Burgundys" where imported by the thousands and sold as blondis.

The _Theraphosa spp_. http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?p=1768780#post1768780


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## pato_chacoana (Oct 30, 2010)

See also example of ''real'' _T. blondi_ here: http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=37152&page=26
(post 383)


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## Falk (Oct 30, 2010)

pato_chacoana said:


> See also example of ''real'' _T. blondi_ here: http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=37152&page=26
> (post 383)


We gave the same link


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## pato_chacoana (Oct 30, 2010)

Hehe I didn't notice, sorry!


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## RottweilExpress (Oct 31, 2010)

So, like I said. My biggest girl molted the other day, and here's some pics for you to look at.


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## pato_chacoana (Oct 31, 2010)

Looks _T. blondi_ to me. Can you post pics of the male?


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## RottweilExpress (Nov 2, 2010)

pato_chacoana said:


> Looks _T. blondi_ to me. Can you post pics of the male?


Hey

I suspect you'll find that he's a blondi too. I'll get some pics tomorrow or thursday.

Cheers!


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## Falk (Nov 3, 2010)

Strange that no one on this board has suggested putting the male in an "ICU" yet.


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## RottweilExpress (Nov 3, 2010)

Falk you bitter, cynical man 

Btw, I forgot my cam so it'll be some more days.


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## pato_chacoana (Nov 3, 2010)

Whatever, good luck!


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## RottweilExpress (Nov 4, 2010)

Thanks Pato, I guess I'll need it.


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## RottweilExpress (Nov 8, 2010)

They are getting slightly better. Or the male, in this situation. Still no insrtion but getting closer. The female in this particular mating is so hot for him, I'm impressed.

Anyways, the male:


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## pato_chacoana (Nov 8, 2010)

Cool, it's always funny to see the females despered!


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## AmbushArachnids (Nov 8, 2010)

Thats a nice lookin male there! Ive been having a bit of trouble with a MM H. lividum. He is really a chicken.


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## Bjamin (Nov 8, 2010)

Its a miracle than any spider breads at all if my old lady tried to kill me everytime we got it on I would be able to wait a lot longer


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## Poxicator (Nov 8, 2010)

Have you been trying to "key" them in by raising the humidity, raising the moisture levels? Its looking rather dry in there which might have an impact.


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## 2oCHEVYo0 (Nov 9, 2010)

I would definatly go with the humidity being TOO low... Moisten it up a bit in their and maybe raise the temp just a bit and he should be good to go.


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## Falk (Nov 9, 2010)

2oCHEVYo0 said:


> I would definatly go with the humidity being TOO low... Moisten it up a bit in their and maybe raise the temp just a bit and he should be good to go.


How do you know how the humidity is in that set Up? just because the top layer is a bit dry?


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## AbraCadaver (Nov 9, 2010)

Falk said:


> How do you know how the humidity is in that set Up? just because the top layer is a bit dry?


Well, that would be a fair assumption as that's what we can see.. Also, as I've understood it, not even the top layer should be " bit dry" with these species, as swamps are rarely dry.. But maybe you have dry swamps in sweden, what do I know..


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## Falk (Nov 9, 2010)

AbraCadaver said:


> Well, that would be a fair assumption as that's what we can see.. Also, as I've understood it, not even the top layer should be " bit dry" with these species, as swamps are rarely dry.. But maybe you have dry swamps in sweden, what do I know..


The substrate can be dry as long as the air is humid, besides that Rottweil has been keeping Theraphosids for years so he know how to care for the Theraphosa spp.
And no: It should be moist but not swampy.


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## AbraCadaver (Nov 9, 2010)

I didn't say it had to be swampy, I said they lived in swamp areas. And these are rarely dry. I never said he should poor 5 gallons of water in there..

Also, if he's been keeping theraphosas for years he should have seen a difference between the blondi and the sp.spinipes.


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## Falk (Nov 10, 2010)

AbraCadaver said:


> I didn't say it had to be swampy, I said they lived in swamp areas. And these are rarely dry. I never said he should poor 5 gallons of water in there..
> 
> Also, if he's been keeping theraphosas for years he should have seen a difference between the blondi and the sp.spinipes.


There are no spider called sp. spinipes, they are still sp. "Burgundy". Thousands of hobbyists did not know the differance, Robc´s Zilla for one example and many others did not know until it came to light.

This is going offtopic now.


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## Poxicator (Nov 10, 2010)

Actually I don't think that's going off topic at all.
The first and foremost factor in any breeding is to make sure you are mating 2 members of the same species. The fact that this has already been documented on this forum (I provided a link earlier) and many other forums suggests this is easy to check. The OP has only just become aware of it. No problem with that, we're all here to learn. But his response on my  question was "I take it you did not read the thread."
I mentioned Ray Gabriel's ideas on mating this species, to which the OP replied he had. RG has, to my memory, previously mentioned different forms as being an issue with mating Theraphosa, he also mentions issues with mating L. klugi because he believes there are 2 forms, an issue Ive personally talked to him about. From memory, Ray suggests raising both the humidity and the moisture levels in the enclosure to assist in the breeding process. Lets not forget this species comes from one of the wettest inhabitable environments in the world. Ray also suggests he gets the most success from breeding almost immediately after a moult (1 month max) which provides at least 11 months of gestation/sac. The shorter this period the more likely the female is to abandon or eat the sac. There may be errors in my recollection so its worthwhile seeking out his report on this which Im hopeful to find in the BTS archives.
The OP has chosen to ask for help within this forum. T. blondi are notoriously hard to get a result from so its worthwhile seeking help and absorbing any points that are made. If we're defensive about receiving these comments we hardly encourage people to provide help. If our experience means we have our eyes and ears shut then we take nothing but our own thoughts away with us.


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## Falk (Nov 10, 2010)

The dry spot in the box seems to be just where the spider has molted, look to the bottom left corner witch looks more moist. 
Do they breed during dry season or rain season? I dont belive they have exactly they humidity all year around.


I know a trick with other species after the breeding has been done is to simulate rainseason and keep the enclosure "wet" for a few weeks and then slowly the the tank dry out to make the fame lay an eggsack.

I think this is what Phalagorn did and the got 179 slings from a _Theraphosa blondi_ sack about 10 years ago.


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## Fran (Nov 10, 2010)

Falk said:


> Do they breed during dry season or rain season? I dont belive they have exactly they humidity all year around.
> 
> 
> .


Theraphosa blondi comes from Venezuela,North East Brazil, Guyana and suriname.
The average humidity all year round in those rain forest? simple: around 100%.


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## RottweilExpress (Nov 10, 2010)

Tack för stödet Falk 

So, Falk is right about the moisture. In the glasstanks with the females 50% from the bottom up of the substrate's moist/wet and then also a big waterdish. This means that the hides which go down a bit in the substrate is pretty moist. 

The male has slightly drier conditions in that his sub is not very deep, but a big corner is always wet and directly after pouring water in, a large portion of the surface is moist also. Temp is slightly higher in the room now, about 24 degrees C. We'll see if this is enough for any notable changes. Last resort is heatpads which I don't like for several reasons. 

Regarding molting, the most receptive of the females molted around 3 months ago, and the biggest and oldest molted a week ago. I'd say that suffices. I'm eagerly awaiting the bigger female to harden up and get some food before mating attempts.

And yes, I've reared quite a lot of T's during the years and also had several sacks, like Holothele, grammostolas, ceratogyrus and others. But sure, Thera is another league.

I shall even further moisture the cages and raise the temp some more. Thanks.

EDIT: Snapshots of the cages before extra moisturing. Admittedly, they were drier before the matings started, around 2 weeks ago. After extra moisturing the surface is more affected and even more of the deeper substrate.

Cage of the most receptive female, molted 3 month ago.






Cage of the biggest one, she's netted up the opening in the aftermath of the molt as you can see here. No mating attempts post molt has been attempted.


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## Falk (Nov 10, 2010)

Fran said:


> Theraphosa blondi comes from Venezuela,North East Brazil, Guyana and suriname.
> The average humidity all year round in those rain forest? simple: around 100%.


They have dry seasons, the forrests are humid but the lakes dry up. Humidity aslo change during night/day so its never 100% all the time.

West side of Andenes has a stabile climate with rain all year around, east side has a dry season followed by heavy rain period. (just learned =) )


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## Fran (Nov 10, 2010)

Falk said:


> They have dry seasons, the forrests are humid but the lakes dry up. Humidity aslo change during night/day so its never 100% all the time.
> 
> West side of Andenes has a stabile climate with rain all year around, east side has a dry season followed by heavy rain period. (just learned =) )



Im a Geographer, specialized on climatology (dynamic and climatic) .

The* AVERAGE*  humidity in the Rain forests where Thraphosa blondi and apophysis come from are around the 90% to 100% all year around.( In the state Amazonas, Venezuela is ridiculously high 27-7-365)
Give or take, it wont go down much.


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## Falk (Nov 10, 2010)

From what i have learned they usually mate in the beginning of the rain season and a few month after when it dries up a bit they lay their sack. But that might not be the problem with the male being so scared and unwilling to mate, perhapps sharkcaging for a few days might help.


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## RottweilExpress (Nov 11, 2010)

Falk said:


> From what i have learned they usually mate in the beginning of the rain season and a few month after when it dries up a bit they lay their sack. But that might not be the problem with the male being so scared and unwilling to mate, perhapps sharkcaging for a few days might help.


Yeah, this is how I feel. I am pretty much sharkcaging, enough to have the female press up against the glass, wanting to enter his hammarplast box. But I'm trying out the other suggestions too, as I want to succeed. They are dancin' but not finishing off properly. I'd say the circumstances are about right for mating. We all know some species are harder for unknown reasons, like the Chromatopelma which I've failed to mate too. There's kinda the same problem, the interaction


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## Poxicator (Nov 11, 2010)

I'd personally add more water to the top level substrate, the bottom level is looking good but increasing the moisture levels of the top layers might help.
As mentioned above, they mate at the start of the rain season when food is plentiful and the sacs are laid as the rains lesson. These are the keys we look for.
I've recommended this to the 5 breeders Ive sent my MM out to and so far 3 of them are looking good for the next stage - the sac. Unfortunately there's more hurdles to cross as they are notorious sac eaters.
I still haven't cracked GBB either. mated 4 females, 1 died (possible didnt agree with moisture levels), 2 moulted out, 1 laid a sac but the eggs went black, and to add to that 2 males were eaten. Still have 3 more females and 18 slings for the attempt again.


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## RottweilExpress (Nov 11, 2010)

Yeah, I've tried 2 males with my fem GBB but she's....not that easy to arouse it seems  I've got 2 more sub males now waiting for them to molt out.

Good luck to us!


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## Falk (Nov 11, 2010)

Adding more water doenst necessarily raise the humidity, just a fact


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## DemonAsh (Nov 11, 2010)

Falk said:


> Adding more water doenst necessarily raise the humidity, just a fact


No, but it will increase the moisture level of the top layer of substrate, which may help, as stated above.


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## RottweilExpress (Nov 12, 2010)

I'd think that'd rather help in the period of "laying the sac", not the actual matingritual to be honest. I'm doing it non the less.

It's now 26-27 degrees C in the room.


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## DemonAsh (Nov 12, 2010)

RottweilExpress said:


> I'd think that'd rather help in the period of "laying the sac", not the actual matingritual to be honest. I'm doing it non the less.
> 
> It's now 26-27 degrees C in the room.


Good luck!! I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.


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## Poxicator (Dec 5, 2010)

Any joy yet?


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## MadTitan (Dec 6, 2010)

Complete conjecture, but, are the males palps properly formed?  Seems like he would still try if they were malformed, but maybe not.  Perhaps if he were unable to load them properly, he might get to right before insertions should happen and do the tarantula equivalent of ...."uh, what now?"

Good luck.


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## RottweilExpress (Dec 13, 2010)

No joy here. There's been some decent attempts but nothing that I deem succesful. The recently molted lady won't let him near at the moment either. He hasn't made any new spermnets since the first 1-2. 

So it's kinda bleak. In the middle of winter here, they just have to feel it. Molting and activity is at a bottom low, despite good temp and moisture in the room.


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## RottweilExpress (Dec 30, 2010)

There we go, the next male is now MM and will produce spermnet in a couple of weeks or so. Interesting. Still a bad time of the year though =/


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## Poxicator (Dec 30, 2010)

Well, I wish you better luck than Ive had with my male partnering the first female. She created a sac but it all went bad and the female subsequently died.
http://www.arachnophiles.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?16706-Theraphosa-blondi-disappointment


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## RottweilExpress (Jan 2, 2011)

I'm sorry to hear that. A nightmare scenario


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## RottweilExpress (Jan 5, 2011)

The latest MM is showing strong purple taint on the carapace. Never seen this before, I'm already skeptic to this mating. Will try to take a pic, failed so far.


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## RottweilExpress (Jan 31, 2011)

Ok guys. One sack sighted  It's looking rather smallish, dented and rough. So I'm not keeping my spirits too high, but non the less it's fun and I'm happy about it!


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## Falk (Jan 31, 2011)

Gonna hold my thumbs so hard for you that atleast one of them cracks


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## RottweilExpress (Jan 31, 2011)

Falk said:


> Gonna hold my thumbs so hard for you that atleast one of them cracks


Thanks man, I hope so too. My biggest concern now is the extreme moisture in the container. I made a kind of incubator for the girl most likely to be gravid and it worked so far, but it's so moist that drops are hanging from the ceiling and the vent aren't THAT good. So I'm thinking about creating a small gap under the lid in one corner for a more direct ventilation. But I don't want to disturb her (her netting is applied to the lid) or take away the conditions that made her pop the sack. Then again, I don't want rot or mold either...


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 2, 2011)

After reading some breedingreports and talking to some people I've decided to pull the sack at the 1st of april. Meaning 60 days. It should be late almost, considering the high temp in the container.


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## Poxicator (Feb 3, 2011)

If you have netting over the enclosure I'd consider simply removing the lid, with as little disturbance as possible. A heatmat nearby will help to reduce the moisture levels to more acceptable levels if the moisture can escape. Obviously you want to keep a level of humidity to prevent the eggs from drying out. Perhaps her hide (or where she has the sac) is less moist or perhaps the sac is raised.

It seems the increased levels of moisture have keyed her in, but remember the other point I made, these are infamous for eating their sacs. Knowing that, and knowing the issues you're facing I'd be tempted to remove the sac on 45 days.

Good luck whatever you choose, we're rooting for a good result.


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## Fran (Feb 3, 2011)

I wouldnt leave the sack tha long with the mom.

With high temps, blondi eggs will develop into eggs with legs quite fast, so I would pull at 30.


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 4, 2011)

Ok thanks guys.

The moisture levels has leveled out somewhat and I'm not as concerned about it for now. I tried to lift the lid a bit for evaluation of the substrate, air and such. She immediatly responded and I will not touch her container again if not necessery.

30 days seem a bit steep, I don't want to be in the situation where I have to care for eggs myself. However, point taken and making a compromise between Frans, mine and Pox suggestions would set the time to 40 days, give or take.

Thumbs crossed.


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## Fran (Feb 4, 2011)

Do you have  export papers? I would buy quite a bunch 


And about the care of the eggsack. With Theraphosa, for what I remmember,(in 1995-1996 my brother bred them)   at 25 daysfrom laying all the eggs were already  "dry" and done to be forming into eggs with legs. So at about a month, for sure no rotation is needed in the least, just warmth and high humidity to help speed up the developing process.

Also, pulling too late will  give oportunity to the Female feeding on it and Mites infestation

Good luck!


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## Poxicator (Feb 4, 2011)

I'd consider a purchase too, although I'm hoping for one of the 3 mated females (out of 4) to be successful.

I have some reports of timescales somewhere, I'll see if I can dig them out. Perhaps there's some in here.

I would definitely prepare for incubation, there are some good ideas on the net, but you need to be ready in case things go a little wrong. For myself I use 2 tubs, 1 smaller than the other. The smaller one has the lid cut back to the rim to allow for a nylon hammock. Inside this I put vermiculite, others put just water, and some put moist kitchen towel. Its on this hammock that the eggs are laid. This tub is put inside the larger enclosure which again has a level of moisture and importantly a way to ventilate which I suggest some more thin mesh nylon or vented lid. If you have flies in the room I suggest you use nylon to stop them getting to the eggs.

I turn my eggs 2 or 3 times a day and use a soft artists brush to avoid them sticking together.


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## Fran (Feb 5, 2011)

Take some pictures of the enclosure/T if you have the slight chance, please


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 6, 2011)

Thanks Pox, the incubator for the eggs are not a problem per se, I've raised some sacks before and not as noob as it might seem, but with blondis no questions are dumb. This.shall.not.fail due to sloppyness or pride if I can help it.

Pics requested, I will not touch the container if not absolutely necessery so the pics are not great. They are also pretty huge but that is so you can zoom in if you like for any reason.

I probably wont be shipping any future slings abroad.

The box containing the eggsack and female.






The same box is in the lower middle, the box next to it is another mated blondi female. The white thing is a 1000w radiator on full heat. Might seem too much but it's not. I've used it year around like this for 2 years and if you look at the (gravid) B klaasi above blondi "incubator" she always hangs around near the front glass to get some extra heat.






I should point out that the blondis usual homes are 60*30*30 glass terras, not these plastic containers.


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 8, 2011)

The smallest blondi fem molted yesterday. Time for a new date next week.


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## pato_chacoana (Feb 10, 2011)

congrats on the sac!! i just came from FG with some cool info on t. blondi. will make a small paper about them soon 
good luck with your breedings and congrats on your efforts!!!

pato-


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 17, 2011)

Hey Pato, thank. You came from where, FG? Nice to hear some about Theraphosa, keep us posted.

News from the hobbyroom, an electric circuit in the wall burned out and left the room in fumes and stink. I had to vent it out and we've got heavy snow and winter here...Not good, the female was most likely bothered by this. The electricians will be a bothersome momentum too I recon.

I've been pouring in some 50ml of water a day through one of the small holes in the lid, as the peatmoss is drying up despite the moisture hanging from the lid.

The newly molted fem seems to have lost half a spinerette in the molt. She was not into the male.


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## Fran (Feb 17, 2011)

Good luck man. The water pooring is a good idea, you dont want that enclosure to be dry...Yet you dont want to have poor ventilation.

I cant wait for you to pull the sack


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 18, 2011)

Thanks, me too! I know, I drill holes in the sides of most of my hammarplast I use, to get some natural flow of air. This box is on the lesser side, which I've been concerned about. I think the "external" radiator gets some of the air moving in the box though, making a shift of air. The purpose of the setup was to make the whole box the actual chamber, making her comfortable enough to lay the sack. I've experimented with the concept succesfully before. You can also tell when you apply the concept on burrowers, they tend to stay on the "surface" webbing it up, even if they have the chance to dig further down, if the box is cramped enough.

Of course, I'm not advocating cramped housing generally.


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## John Kanker (Feb 18, 2011)

maybe ask some people who have bred them for advise. You can find some people who have had success here-
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=50030


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## Falk (Feb 19, 2011)

John Kanker said:


> maybe ask some people who have bred them for advise. You can find some people who have had success here-
> http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=50030


Many of those are T. stirmi and not T. blondi.


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## John Kanker (Feb 19, 2011)

Falk said:


> Many of those are T. stirmi and not T. blondi.


I see 3 success on that page from Jmugleston, Drachenjager and Tescos. As 
Jmugleston and Drachenjager don't show photo of the adults they mated I wouldn't even like to say if they are are T. stirmi or T. blondi but in the photos by Tescos you can see they are T.blondi.


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## Fran (Feb 19, 2011)

John Kanker said:


> I see 3 success on that page from Jmugleston, Drachenjager and Tescos. As
> Jmugleston and Drachenjager don't show photo of the adults they mated I wouldn't even like to say if they are are T. stirmi or T. blondi but in the photos by Tescos you can see they are T.blondi.



I think he (RottweilExpress) has it pretty much right. He has half the battle done. Now is just to hope those eggs are fertile and they develope into healthy slings soon


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## John Kanker (Feb 19, 2011)

sorry for wasting your time then.


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## Fran (Feb 19, 2011)

Oh come on  Im sure he appreciates any input


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 20, 2011)

I appreciate all advice, although in this case the breeding reports were the first thing I read


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 22, 2011)

A staggering -28 degrees Celcius (-18.4 fahrenheit) is making it difficult to maintain good temps in the hobbyroom. Taking the risk now to put the external radiator closer to the breeders. Even the spanish harvester ants have slowed down.

No luck in getting good insertions with the other fems. The one carrying sack now was the one that was almost overly receptive to the more unwilling males. The other two fems just gives them the hand almost immediatly. It's strange, and a bit frustrating. Both males have fresh spermnets in their containers and both fems are recently molted. I will continue making setups and changing the rules of engagement


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## Crows Arachnids (Feb 22, 2011)

60 days is far too long.


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 23, 2011)

We've drawn that conclusion as well. I've stopped at 40 days, which is just about a week and a half from now. Do you have another suggestion?


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 25, 2011)

Failure.

The sac was discarded early this morning. It was approx 50-70 eggs, all black and hard. Grainmites were feeding happily. I don't know what went wrong, the air was not stale, the container was not overly moist, or at least not swampy. Drops were present to the side of the radiator, but that's all. The only thing I can come up with if I fault the setup, is the amount of ventilation. But again, the air was fine etc. I've taken pics, and I'll post them tonight. It's a bitter day.


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## AmbushArachnids (Feb 25, 2011)

That really sucks. There is always another try.


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## Crows Arachnids (Feb 25, 2011)

Eggs were likely infertile. This happens when you have two different Theraphosa, which you may or may not have had.


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 26, 2011)

I'm kinda hoping you're wrong here, because the fems younger sister was just succesfully inserted with the same males juice.

I'll switch males too, but I guess whoever sperm gets there first, right? Might be looking at another infirtile sack then, if I get one at all.

I've found mold on a piece of wood in the fems container, proving the ventilation to be on the slight side. The balance is delicate.


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## RottweilExpress (Feb 26, 2011)

I retract the mold statement, it was just bad lightning and dust. No obvious mold. Also, the approx temp in the container according to an almost horizontal mercury thermometer was 26 degrees C. I guess it fluxuates with the radiator which is not stabil in it's temp due to a thermostat.

Bad eggs and mites






The container


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## RottweilExpress (Jan 30, 2012)

Time for another spin. It's the third sack from 2011 matings and it's cooking since 12-01-03 or thereabout. I was thinking about plucking this sack later this week, as it has passed 30 days by then. Difference between this sack and the last this fem had (the one described in this thread) is that this is HUGE and it has grown considerably the past week(s). Well, to make it sound less positive, it's not that much tension to it, when she puts it down it looks like a bag on the ground, "floats out" so to speak.

Temp is far lower, lesser moisture, same cage, same fem, I'm guessing another male, mostly dark around the clock, temp around 22-23 degress. It's january and deep winter outside.


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