# New Millipedes to add to enclosure?



## VictorHernandez (Oct 24, 2012)

I currently have 6 Tylobolus uncigerus that are are from 2.5" to close to 4" in length.

They would be in a 10 gallon tank(I would switch to a 15 gallon or a 20 gallon if I have to) with 2 bark hides, some climbing sticks, moss, and coco fiber substrate with a layer of leaves and rotting wood that has been microwaved on top. It would have a false bottom setup, with small straws as hydration tubes.

I have been doing some research, and have chosen these millipedes(found on Ken The Bug Guy, Bugs In Cyberspace, Tarantula Inc. sites) to be added to the enclosure. But I needed some help on choosing some that are definitely a good choice, and those that I have chosen that aren't a good choice. I am also hoping them to breed in the enclosure, if they don't eat their eggs.

These are the millipedes:

Narceus americanus

Orthoporus ornatus

Orthopotus texicolens

Chicobolus spinigerus(ebony & ivory)

Anadenobolus monilicornis 

Trigoniulus corallinus
Florida Scarlet Millipede(isn't the t. Corallinus the same as the florida scarlet millipede? Ken the bug guy has them separate.)

Rainbow Millipedes(Thai or vietnamese)

These I may buy in the future:
Spirostreptus spp

Archispirostreptus gigas


Thanks. (sorry for being such a n00b)


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## zonbonzovi (Oct 24, 2012)

IMO, if you're going to do mixed species tanks it's best to house creatures together that come from a common habitat.  In this case N. americanus has a greater distribution and likely more tolerancy to cold/wider acceptability of different conditions.  Not to say you couldn't be successful with keeping other species together but this would probably be ideal from those among your list.


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## shebeen (Oct 24, 2012)

See my reply in First Millipede Questions for my experience with 4 of the millipedes on your list.

I have a false bottom in my Florida Ivory tank.  The other day, I noticed that a couple of the baby millipedes had managed to make their way to the bottom of the substrate and through the window screen that holds it above the reservoir.  The substrate is 5 inches deep.  I'm not sure if a couple more inches of substrate would prevent this, but it probably wouldn't hurt.  I'm not too concerned since I figure if they made it down there, they can probably make it back.  Plus, I have so many offspring that losing a couple is not a big deal.  However, if I was trying to breed an expensive species like the Thai Rainbow, I might reconsider the false bottom or use deeper substrate and a finer mesh screen.


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## VictorHernandez (Oct 24, 2012)

How 'bout if I use a false bottom without the wire mesh. Just straight out one or two inches of aquarium pebbles and dump substrate all the way to 6". would the rest cohabitate fine? I am thinking of also acquiring some Macrolenostreptus brachycerus into the mix because it reproduces well and are neat looking.

List is ranked, but I have some questions on some of the species:

Narceus americanus

Macrolenostreptus brachycerus

Chicobolus spinigerus, ivory, and Ebony morph.

Anadenobolus monilicornis: I heard that these have a high death rate, but high reproduction rate. Is this true?

Trigoniulus corallinus
Florida Scarlet Millipede: Is the Florida Scarlet the same as the T. corallinus? KTBG has them seperate.

Orthoporus ornatus
Orthopotus texicolens: O. ornatus and O. texicolens are desert species... Why do they require a humid setup?

Thai Rainbow

Last question...On average, how long smaller species of Millipedes like these live?
I think I'll start out with buying only females of each species. Add males later.


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## shebeen (Oct 25, 2012)

Substrate on top of gravel, without a screen separating them, would probably work just fine.  I don't use gravel in my false bottoms so I need some type of screen to hold the substrate above the water reservoir.

Anadenobolus monilicornis are quite prolific.  I've had 5 for about a year and they have produced numerous offspring.  I haven't counted, but judging from what I can see, there's well over a 100 babies in the substrate, the largest being about 3/4 inch in length.  I think you've been misinformed about their death rate.  In his book, Giant Millipedes, Orin gives them a Hardiness rating of 10 and states, "Adults never seem to die and molt every year or two.".

If well cared for, the millipedes on your list can live up to 10 years as adults.

Why only females?  If it's to avoid offspring, there's no guarantee that adult females won't be gravid. 

I can't answer your other questions, hopefully, someone else can.


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## SDCPs (Oct 25, 2012)

Why a false bottom at all? It's cool and all but it is not needed. Just lower the ventilation on your cage or mist once in a while. Mine stay moist for months without me having to do anything.


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## shebeen (Oct 25, 2012)

SDCPs said:


> Why a false bottom at all? It's cool and all but it is not needed. Just lower the ventilation on your cage or mist once in a while. Mine stay moist for months without me having to do anything.


You're correct, it's not needed.  I did it more as a test of concept than anything else.  It works well for my Emperor enclosure, so I though why not use it for millipedes as well.  It turns out that the millipede tanks, which I keep at room temp, retain moisture much longer than my Emperor tank which has a heat lamp and stays ~85F.  I only add water to the millipede reservoirs every 3 or 4 months, and very little water when I do.


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## VictorHernandez (Oct 25, 2012)

shebeen said:


> Substrate on top of gravel, without a screen separating them, would probably work just fine.  I don't use gravel in my false bottoms so I need some type of screen to hold the substrate above the water reservoir.
> 
> Anadenobolus monilicornis are quite prolific.  I've had 5 for about a year and they have produced numerous offspring.  I haven't counted, but judging from what I can see, there's well over a 100 babies in the substrate, the largest being about 3/4 inch in length.  I think you've been misinformed about their death rate.  In his book, Giant Millipedes, Orin gives them a Hardiness rating of 10 and states, "Adults never seem to die and molt every year or two.".
> 
> ...


Thanks. And all females for now, because maybe some can be gravid. I actually want offspring.

---------- Post added 10-25-2012 at 04:36 PM ----------

Hey..Do you guys recommend the Narceus americanus or Narceus americanus annularis? I read that the N. annularis lives longer, therefore better. Are they still the same size?


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## SDCPs (Oct 25, 2012)

VictorHernandez said:


> Thanks. And all females for now, because maybe some can be gravid. I actually want offspring.
> 
> ---------- Post added 10-25-2012 at 04:36 PM ----------
> 
> Hey..Do you guys recommend the Narceus americanus or Narceus americanus annularis? I read that the N. annularis lives longer, therefore better. Are they still the same size?


If you get baby females they will not be gravid. I'd say best to concentrate on breeding 1 or two species well than hope to breed a whole bunch at one time with just a few femals if you cannot afford it. Get a bunch of Chicobolus spinigerus, then sell or trade the babies and get something else, for instance. 

Annularis also takes nearly double the time to mature...therefore not better 

---------- Post added 10-25-2012 at 05:36 PM ----------




shebeen said:


> You're correct, it's not needed.  I did it more as a test of concept than anything else.  It works well for my Emperor enclosure, so I though why not use it for millipedes as well.  It turns out that the millipede tanks, which I keep at room temp, retain moisture much longer than my Emperor tank which has a heat lamp and stays ~85F.  I only add water to the millipede reservoirs every 3 or 4 months, and very little water when I do.


I admire testing!


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## VictorHernandez (Oct 26, 2012)

SDCPs said:


> If you get baby females they will not be gravid. I'd say best to concentrate on breeding 1 or two species well than hope to breed a whole bunch at one time with just a few femals if you cannot afford it. Get a bunch of Chicobolus spinigerus, then sell or trade the babies and get something else, for instance.
> 
> Annularis also takes nearly double the time to mature...therefore not better



I think I'll have to get adult females, because Bugs In Cyberspace doesn't sex small or young millipedes for some reason. Ken The Bug Guy might, but he has a smaller selection.


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## shebeen (Oct 26, 2012)

Young millipedes often have soft exoskeletons because they molt so often.  Uncoiling one in order to sex it can cause severe injury.


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## SDCPs (Oct 26, 2012)

VictorHernandez said:


> I think I'll have to get adult females, because Bugs In Cyberspace doesn't sex small or young millipedes for some reason. Ken The Bug Guy might, but he has a smaller selection.


I don't think you understand: baby females only = no offspring.

I have the impression you're trying to do this on the cheap, only getting one gender so basically half the cost is the way you see it I think. Correct me if I'm wrong.

But to do things well, you've gotta...do things well, cover all the bases. That's why I suggest you do things well to get experience. Once you're a pro you can make the cut corners kind of decisions.

I suggest a starter colony of 5 millipedes for whatever species  you choose: 2 males, 3 females. That way you're totally covered against minor mishaps.

Don't forget that I have some flamelegs for sale if you want to start with those, and I can sex them for you. Fast growing and easy to breed, also Peter's (BiC) and Orin's (E&A) favorite millipedes.


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## VictorHernandez (Oct 27, 2012)

SDCPs said:


> I don't think you understand: baby females only = no offspring.
> 
> I have the impression you're trying to do this on the cheap, only getting one gender so basically half the cost is the way you see it I think. Correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> ...


I was actually thinking of getting males and females, but I wanted to introduce males maybe a month later. And I dont want to get babies, as I said before, they are unsexable, so I wouldnt know if I get all females or all males, and they cant even mate yet.

---------- Post added 10-27-2012 at 11:35 AM ----------




shebeen said:


> Young millipedes often have soft exoskeletons because they molt so often.  Uncoiling one in order to sex it can cause severe injury.


Some of the smaller millipedes I have are easily sexable when theyre walking around at night.

---------- Post added 10-27-2012 at 11:38 AM ----------

Do you think Maple leaves will be good for millipedes? I cant really find much regular oak trees around here, and we have lots of Maple. I also found some kind of a rotting hardwood tree in the forest, and collected some of that.


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## SDCPs (Oct 28, 2012)

VictorHernandez said:


> I was actually thinking of getting males and females...*And I dont want to get babies*, as I said before, they are unsexable, so I wouldnt know if I get all females or all males, and they cant even mate yet.





VictorHernandez said:


> Thanks. And all females for now, because maybe some can be gravid.


Larger babies are often sexable. I can easily sex 1.5" flamelegs.


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## VictorHernandez (Oct 28, 2012)

I finished the millipede enclosure, and I used a mix of 60-70% oak, and the rest of maple and rotting hardwood as a top layer. I dont really like it because, they can hid in it so nicely, and night miss them at night when their crawling. Is it a bad idea to cover the top layer with more coco fiber? Right now its at 6" exact with the organic layer, and false bottom.
And I might just buy some flame legs sometime.


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## satchellwk (Oct 28, 2012)

6 inches should be fine for them. furthermore, it is good for them to be able to hide, that's what they typically do naturally; don;t worry, if the 4 species I have offer any evidence, you should see at least one out pretty regularly, especially at night. 

As for adding more species, I would say that N. americanus and C. spiningerus are some of the best beginner level pedes. 

Also, if you want some captive bred Narceus americanus plings, I would be happy to trade you some for a couple of those Tylobolus if you're able to round a few more up.


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## VictorHernandez (Oct 28, 2012)

satchellwk said:


> 6 inches should be fine for them. furthermore, it is good for them to be able to hide, that's what they typically do naturally; don;t worry, if the 4 species I have offer any evidence, you should see at least one out pretty regularly, especially at night.
> 
> As for adding more species, I would say that N. americanus and C. spiningerus are some of the best beginner level pedes.
> 
> Also, if you want some captive bred Narceus americanus plings, I would be happy to trade you some for a couple of those Tylobolus if you're able to round a few more up.


Thanks. and the trade would be good idea. I could try to get a few more. But I am currently trying to have the ones I got to breed, I have only but one male for they are rare. I would so after at least one spawns baby Tylobolids.


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