# [Beginner] Should I be worried about urticating hairs?



## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

Hi, I'm new in this forum. I'm planning to buy my first Tarantula (Fireleg), and I'm planning to have more if I end up enjoying it more than what I expected, I just want to know if I should be worried about Tarantula's urticating hairs, I've heard about them, I've watched some famous Tarantula youtubers but they never talked about it, does that mean they never had that kind of problem and immune to it? I mean, they rehouse, feed and sometimes they even handle their Tarantulas without any protection, but they never mention about getting rashes or hair getting in their eyes, does that mean it depends on the person if he or she is prone to urticating hair? Our house is not that spacious so I'm afraid that those hairs would float around the house if I open the enclosure to feed them and my family or our dog (Shih-tzu) would get rashes or get sick. My brother have a slight sensitive skin, would his skin react even if he's not going near the Tarantula? And does rehousing and feeding the Tarantula also cause to hair flick? I really want a Tarantula and my parents don't mind about me getting one or two, I'm just worried that it might harm them. I really hope somebody would give me an advice and answer all these questions. Thank you for reading.


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## Teal (Dec 26, 2018)

First, you'll want to learn the scientific name of the spider. It will help you greatlt in doing research on it!

Second, urticating hairs are worse in some species. The main time you'll want to be cautious is when the spider molts - a lot of them will lay down a mat of u-hairs to molt on, and if you remove the molt it will stir everything up. However, it really isn't a concern unless you are sticking your face pretty much in the enclosure. Urticating hairs are a defense mechanism meant to get into the eyes/mouth/nose of a predator that gets too close to a T and are most effective within a few inches. If your T kicks hairs and they land on you, simply apply some tape to pull them out. Whether you'll have a reaction or not, you won't know until it happens.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Helpful 1


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## wingedcoatl (Dec 26, 2018)

Hey there! You might be talking about Brachypelma boehmei? Here's a care sheet from a guy I trust:

http://www.mikebasictarantula.com/B-boehmei-caresheet.html

Please note that his experience (in the comments section) he remarks that these guys have really nasty urticating hairs. I don't think they'd hurt your pets or brother by virtue of being in the same room, but you might get some burning/itching doing heavy enclosure maintenance or handling. I don't recommend handling. Otherwise, Brachypelma are just great. Easy care, and very handsome


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## Ungoliant (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> And does rehousing and feeding the Tarantula also cause to hair flick?


A tarantula's propensity to flick hairs will depend on species and individual temperament.  Most of the commonly recommended beginner species are fairly docile, but it's always possible to get an oddball that is more defensive than is usual for the species.

I have some tarantulas that have never flicked hairs at me, and I have one grumpy boy who has recently decided to flick hairs any time I clean the water dish.




gregg097 said:


> I just want to know if I should be worried about Tarantula's urticating hairs, I've heard about them, I've watched some famous Tarantula youtubers but they never talked about it, does that mean they never had that kind of problem and immune to it? I mean, they rehouse, feed and sometimes they even handle their Tarantulas without any protection, but they never mention about getting rashes or hair getting in their eyes, does that mean it depends on the person if he or she is prone to urticating hair?


The severity of the reaction will depend on the species, amount of exposure, and the keeper's own immune system.  (It is possible to sensitize over repeated exposures, so even if you have little or no reaction as a new keeper, that may change.)

Typically, exposure is not a medically significant issue (unless the hairs get in your eyeball, in which case you should see an eye doctor right away), just a nuisance.  On me, it shows up as itchy bumps that look kind of like a poison ivy reaction.  (I am fairly sensitive, so I will itch for a good week or two if I get careless when doing maintenance.)




gregg097 said:


> Our house is not that spacious so I'm afraid that those hairs would float around the house if I open the enclosure to feed them and my family or our dog (Shih-tzu) would get rashes or get sick. My brother have a slight sensitive skin, would his skin react even if he's not going near the Tarantula?


The only people who would be exposed are people who are handling the tarantula (we recommend not handling) or caring for the tarantula.

Most exposure can be avoided simply by using tongs to do your maintenance and not directly touching anything you remove from the enclosure, like a dirty water dish.  (Even if they don't kick hairs at you, they are likely to have shed some hairs around the enclosure.)

If you're cleaning an enclosure (such as after a rehousing), wear gloves.

Do not touch the exuviae/molt (especially the abdomen) with your bare hands.

Avoid touching your face during maintenance, and wash your hands after you open the enclosure to avoid transferring any hairs to sensitive areas.

Reactions: Like 2


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## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

Teal said:


> First, you'll want to learn the scientific name of the spider. It will help you greatlt in doing research on it!
> 
> Second, urticating hairs are worse in some species. The main time you'll want to be cautious is when the spider molts - a lot of them will lay down a mat of u-hairs to molt on, and if you remove the molt it will stir everything up. However, it really isn't a concern unless you are sticking your face pretty much in the enclosure. Urticating hairs are a defense mechanism meant to get into the eyes/mouth/nose of a predator that gets too close to a T and are most effective within a few inches. If your T kicks hairs and they land on you, simply apply some tape to pull them out. Whether you'll have a reaction or not, you won't know until it happens.


Thanks, and sorry about the scientific name, I'm still confused of the boehmei, auratum, hamori so I just identify it as fireleg.
Would the urticating hair float around far and get on stuffs in the house? You know, like the couch, floor or lamps?


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## Ungoliant (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> Thanks, and sorry about the scientific name, I'm still confused of the boehmei, auratum, hamori so I just identify it as fireleg.


The seller should be able to identify the species for you.  Most reputable hobbyists/breeders/dealers include scientific names.

If it is _Brachypelma boehmei_, that tends to be one of the "flickier" _Brachypelma_, although I'm sure there are exceptions out there.




gregg097 said:


> Would the urticating hair float around far and get on stuffs in the house? You know, like the couch, floor or lamps?


The hairs are light and can be stirred up when doing maintenance, etc., but I would not expect them to remain airborne for long or travel outside of the enclosure barring stupid behavior like blowing into the enclosure.


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## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

wingedcoatl said:


> Hey there! You might be talking about Brachypelma boehmei? Here's a care sheet from ahub guy I trust:
> 
> http://www.mikebasictarantula.com/B-boehmei-caresheet.html
> 
> Please note that his experience (in the





wingedcoatl said:


> Hey there! You might be talking about Brachypelma boehmei? Here's a care sheet from a guy I trust:
> 
> http://www.mikebasictarantula.com/B-boehmei-caresheet.html
> 
> Please note that his experience (in the comments section) he remarks that these guys have really nasty urticating hairs. I don't think they'd hurt your pets or brother by virtue of being in the same room, but you might get some burning/itching doing heavy enclosure maintenance or handling. I don't recommend handling. Otherwise, Brachypelma are just great. Easy care, and very handsome


Thank you! I really appreciate the response. 



Ungoliant said:


> A tarantula's propensity to flick hairs will depend on species and individual temperament.  Most of the commonly recommended beginner species are fairly docile, but it's always possible to get an oddball that is more defensive than is usual for the species.
> 
> I have some tarantulas that have never flicked hairs at me, and I have one grumpy boy who has recently decided to flick hairs any time I clean the water dish.
> 
> ...


Are sweatshirts, goggles (or any eye protection) and face mask needed? And are those really gonna protect me from it when doing maintenance?



Ungoliant said:


> A tarantula's propensity to flick hairs will depend on species and individual temperament.  Most of the commonly recommended beginner species are fairly docile, but it's always possible to get an oddball that is more defensive than is usual for the species.
> 
> I have some tarantulas that have never flicked hairs at me, and I have one grumpy boy who has recently decided to flick hairs any time I clean the water dish.
> 
> ...


What if it gets on my clothes? Should I wash them separately from my family's clothes?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Ungoliant (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> Are sweatshirts, goggles (or any eye protection) and face mask needed? And are those really gonna protect me from it when doing maintenance?


For ordinary maintenance?  That would be overkill.

Now, maybe if you are cleaning out the enclosure of a _Theraphosa stirmi_ with a blower. 




gregg097 said:


> What if it gets on my clothes? Should I wash them separately from my family's clothes?


I've never bothered washing those clothes just for tarantula hair, let alone washing them separately.  My husband (who sits right next to the enclosures but does not do any maintenance) has never had a reaction.


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## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

Ungoliant said:


> For ordinary maintenance?  That would be overkill.
> 
> Now, maybe if you are cleaning out the enclosure of a _Theraphosa stirmi_ with a blower.
> 
> ...


So I should just wear gloves when cleaning the enclosure and use tongs when feeding them? And last question, I know I shouldn't be in a hurry to have lots of them but I find other Tarantula species beautiful like Nhandu Chromatus, Ephebopus Murinus, Grammostola Pulchra and GBB, if I gain enough experience in Tarantula caring with dociles ones, what would be your advice when I get those four species that I mentioned? I've seen some people here in my country selling them on facebook groups.


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## SonsofArachne (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> I'm still confused of the boehmei, auratum, hamori


It could be B. emilia too. Fireleg is one of the most over used common names out there, which is why scientific names are important. Although to be fair, The care for those four species is the same.


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## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

SonsofArachne said:


> It could be B. emilia too. Fireleg is one of the most over used common names out there, which is why scientific names are important. Although to be fair, The care for those four species is the same.


Thank you for that tip.

Reactions: Like 1


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## PhilMcWonder (Dec 26, 2018)

WELCOME TO OUR HOBBY 

The hairs can be an issue if you have breathing issues or are allergic. 
Even if you don't, breathing in the hairs or getting them in your eyes will cause bad irritation... They are like fiberglass... 
Some Tarantulas have worse hairs then others but ANY hairs are bad. If your tarantula starts kicking hairs, put the lid back on the cage and stay away for a while.
Leave the tarantula alone and let the hairs dissipate/settle. 

To keep your tarantula from kicking hairs there are a few things you can do.
1) Ensure the tarantula has a hiding spot available. That way It will be more likely to flee to its hiding spot if you startle it.
2) Make sure the enclosure is set up correctly for the Tarantula species. If the cage is not ideal it can stress out the tarantula and make it more likely to kick hairs.
3) Don't spook your tarantula. Slow careful movements when dealing with it and try not to suddenly jostle or breath on the tarantula (they are sensitive to vibrations). 

Most tarantulas won't kick hairs if you leave them alone. 
Most hairs are just irritating and wont pose a risk to your health but keep in mind some hairs are worse than others and can send you to the hospital, especially if you have a bad reaction to them. 

It shouldn't be an issue though. There are plenty of people who never have their tarantulas kick any hairs at all. Just respect the animal and it will respect you.

Reactions: Like 3


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## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

PhilMcWonder said:


> WELCOME TO OUR HOBBY
> 
> The hairs can be an issue if you have breathing issues or are allergic.
> Even if you don't, breathing in the hairs or getting them in your eyes will cause bad irritation... They are like fiberglass...
> ...


Alright, thank you. I was just worried that everything in the house would have urticating hair on it and every stuffs my family touch in the house cause itchiness, I guess I was thinking too much.


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## PhilMcWonder (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> Alright, thank you. I was just worried that everything in the house would have urticating hair on it and every stuffs my family touch in the house cause itchiness, I guess I was thinking too much.


Its a legitimate concern. But honestly it shouldn't be too much of an issue... IT MAY be an issue at the start because rehousing a Tarantula is stressful to the T. But once the tarantula settles in it should be fine. Many Tarantula keeper never have their pets flick hairs at them but remember that every tarantula is different...  some can be rather moody.  

If you are really worried, wear gloves, a mask, and goggles when dealing with the tarantula. But that will most likely not be necessary. 

For the record my Avicularia has never kicked hairs. But my buddy's has kick at him a few times. Different tarantulas, different personalities.


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## PhilMcWonder (Dec 26, 2018)

You are getting a Brachypelma boehmei right?
Brachypelma in general are pretty chill. Some are quick to kick hairs but most are very calm. 
If I recall correctly brachypelma smithi and/or Brachypelma hamorii are the ones that are prone to kick hairs a lot.
Not sure about Brachypelma boehmei though...


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## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

PhilMcWonder said:


> Its a legitimate concern. But honestly it shouldn't be too much of an issue... IT MAY be an issue at the start because rehousing a Tarantula is stressful to the T. But once the tarantula settles in it should be fine. Many Tarantula keeper never have their pets flick hairs at them but remember that every tarantula is different...  some can be rather moody.
> 
> If you are really worried, wear gloves, a mask, and goggles when dealing with the tarantula. But that will most likely not be necessary.
> 
> For the record my Avicularia has never kicked hairs. But my buddy's has kick at him a few times. Different tarantulas, different personalities.


I see. Thank you. How about the mold and mites, is there a way to fully prevent them? How often they could appear in the enclosure?


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## Greasylake (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> Nhandu Chromatus, Ephebopus Murinus, Grammostola Pulchra and GBB


Those are all good choices for the beginning of your T keeping, except maybe the murinus because they can have quite the attitude.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Uial (Dec 26, 2018)

Also, just wash your hands after you did something in the T's enclosure if you do not use gloves.  Simple but effective.

Don't be like me, I forgot and then rubbed my eyes and well, it was not a good day^^

Regarding mites and mold, our resident scientist boina wrote some helpful things on the matter:

About Mold:
http://arachnoboards.com/threads/all-you-need-to-know-about-mold.313315/

and Mites:
http://arachnoboards.com/threads/all-you-need-to-know-about-mites.309211/

Reactions: Agree 2


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## The Grym Reaper (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> I'm planning to buy my first Tarantula (Fireleg)


I'm assuming that you mean Brachypelma boehmei (Mexican Fireleg).













0.1 Brachypelma boehmei



__ The Grym Reaper
__ Oct 30, 2018
__ 8
__
boehmei
brachypelma
brachypelma boehmei
mexican fireleg tarantula




						Armor rocking her new suit.
					




Please, for the love of Cthulu, learn the scientific names of any species you intend to keep, common names are next to useless.

"How useless?" You say. Well, the common name "Red Rump" applies to nearly a dozen species across multiple genera, "Pinktoe" applies to even more (plus all the various morphotypes), and any South American terrestrial species that gets over 5" gets referred to as a "Birdeater".



gregg097 said:


> I just want to know if I should be worried about Tarantula's urticating hairs


Not massively, while they can be annoying, some people get overly paranoid about them.



gregg097 said:


> I've heard about them, I've watched some famous Tarantula youtubers but they never talked about it, does that mean they never had that kind of problem and immune to it? I mean, they rehouse, feed and sometimes they even handle their Tarantulas without any protection, but they never mention about getting rashes or hair getting in their eyes, does that mean it depends on the person if he or she is prone to urticating hair?


Urticating hairs affect everyone differently.

Some people have no reaction to them at all, others only react to hairs from a small number of species (I fall into this category), and then you have those who break out in hives if they get haired or do routine maintenance without protection.

I only react to Acanthoscurria, Phormictopus, Nhandu, and Lasiodora hairs, Lasiodora hairs are by far the worst of the bunch for me and routine maintenance is not a problem for me, I only have a reaction if they kick hairs at me and having a shower/scrubbing any affected areas usually deals with any itching (any redness usually goes by the next day).



gregg097 said:


> I'm afraid that those hairs would float around the house if I open the enclosure to feed them and my family or our dog (Shih-tzu) would get rashes or get sick.


Not unless your dog annoys the tarantula and subsequently gets a face full of hairs.



gregg097 said:


> My brother have a slight sensitive skin, would his skin react even if he's not going near the Tarantula?


Highly unlikely.



gregg097 said:


> And does rehousing and feeding the Tarantula also cause to hair flick?


Rehousing is more likely to get you haired than any routine maintenance because you are continually disturbing the tarantula during the process.

I have supposedly "flicky" species (B. boehmei/GBB/Nhandu spp./etc.) that have never kicked hairs at me* simply because I don't bother them any more than I have to.

*No, not because they're "broken", you bloody trolls.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Helpful 2


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## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

The Grym Reaper said:


> I'm assuming that you mean Brachypelma boehmei (Mexican Fireleg).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You should've read the replies above, I already apologized about not giving the proper scientific name, I didn't even repeat the word "Fireleg" after saying it once, in the facebook group (Tarantula buy and sell) that I joined, the only Tarantula they address as Fireleg is B. Boehmei so I thought it was the same in this forum, they call other Brachypelmas as fire knee or red knee, I never thought that this forum can be strict about the namings. Sorry, I know that common names are useless but I got used to it so I'm really sorry. Thanks for answering my questions though. 



Uial said:


> Also, just wash your hands after you did something in the T's enclosure if you do not use gloves.  Simple but effective.
> 
> Don't be like me, I forgot and then rubbed my eyes and well, it was not a good day^^
> 
> ...


Thank you so much.


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## PhilMcWonder (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> You should've read the replies above, I already apologized about not giving the proper scientific name, I didn't even repeat the word "Fireleg" after saying it once, in the facebook group (Tarantula buy and sell) that I joined, the only Tarantula they address as Fireleg is B. Boehmei so I thought it was the same in this forum, they call other Brachypelmas as fire knee or red knee, I never thought that this forum can be strict about the namings. Sorry, I know that common names are useless but I got used to it so I'm really sorry. Thanks for answering my questions though.


Get use to that XD People on here are sticklers for scientific names... But he is right. I called my T a pink toe not knowing there were like 10 different pink toes out there.
Any time you use the common name people will always think "Mexican red Knee? WHICH ONE?!". I didn't know that until I got to this website either. You will learn all the ins and outs though 

there ARE some exceptions. For example I am told that the GBB (Green Bottle Blue) Is the only tarantula in its family, so no confusion there.

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## gregg097 (Dec 26, 2018)

PhilMcWonder said:


> Get use to that XD People on here are sticklers for scientific names... But he is right. I called my T a pink toe not knowing there were like 10 different pink toes out there.
> Any time you use the common name people will always think "Mexican red Knee? WHICH ONE?!". I didn't know that until I got to this website either. You will learn all the ins and outs though
> 
> there ARE some exceptions. For example I am told that the GBB (Green Bottle Blue) Is the only tarantula in its family, so no confusion there.


Alright, thanks!


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## The Grym Reaper (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> You should've read the replies above, I already apologized about not giving the proper scientific name


Granted, I only briefly skimmed through a few replies before posting but it bears repeating and with a full explanation for anyone else who might read this thread in future.



gregg097 said:


> Thanks for answering my questions though.


No problemo


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## Ungoliant (Dec 26, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> So I should just wear gloves when cleaning the enclosure and use tongs when feeding them?


That's what I do.



gregg097 said:


> And last question, I know I shouldn't be in a hurry to have lots of them but I find other Tarantula species beautiful like Nhandu Chromatus, Ephebopus Murinus, Grammostola Pulchra and GBB, if I gain enough experience in Tarantula caring with dociles ones, what would be your advice when I get those four species that I mentioned?


Any of those would make a good second tarantula with the exception of _Ephebopus murinus_, which tends to be defensive and is usually a pet hole.  (As a new keeper, you'll learn more from a tarantula you regularly see.)

_Grammostola pulchra_ is especially docile, one of my favorite species to keep.  (It would make a fine first tarantula too.)  The two I mentioned that have never flicked hairs at me are my two pulchras.
 

_Nhandu chromatus_ is similar to _Acanthoscurria geniculata_ in temperament and care.  (They're not defensive, but they have a very enthusiastic food response, so don't put your fingers in the enclosure.)  Some of their substrate should be slightly damp.

_Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens_ is a little faster and skittish but is still beginner-friendly, especially as a second or third tarantula.  It makes elaborate webbing and is kept on dry substrate with lots of anchor points for webbing.
 

Some beginner advice I have shared before

*Enclosure*

The basic setup for _Brachypelma_, _Grammostola_, and _Nhandu_ would be similar: some substrate, a place to hide, and a water dish.

Coconut fiber (or coir) is a very common substrate.  If you buy the compressed bricks, you will have to hydrate, break up, and then dry them before use.  This is a hassle, so if I want coir, I usually pay extra for the loose, dry bags.

Topsoil and peat also work, and you can mix different substrates together to alter the texture and moisture retention.  Just make sure whatever you get does not contain any pesticides, fertilizers, fungicides, etc.

Do not use wood chips, and do not use any furnishings made of cedar or pine.  Wood chips are abrasive and unsuitable for burrowing; your tarantula could also impale itself during a fall.  Cedar and pine are thought to have insecticidal properties and is known to irritate the respiratory tracts of some animals.

In most cases, there is no need to worry about temperature with these species.  Any temperature that you're comfortable in while wearing normal indoor clothing is generally fine.  Don't waste your money on a heating mat or heating lamp.

Bulky terrestrial species are particularly vulnerable to falls.  Falls from more than a few inches, especially onto a hard surface, can rupture their abdomens, which is often lethal.

Make sure the vertical space (the distance between the top of the substrate and the bottom of the lid) does not exceed 1.5 times the tarantula's diagonal legspan.  (Even terrestrial tarantulas will climb from time to time, but they're not very good climbers, so you want to limit the distance they can possibly fall.)

You should also include a hide.  The best hides are light-weight (in case she undermines the hide, so it won't crush her), do not have a surface that is jagged or sharp (in case she falls onto it), and don't have a bottom, so they can dig deeper if they want.  Cork is a very common hide, as it meets all of these criteria, but there are many options that will work.

Whatever you end up using as a hide, bury most of it and dig out the entrance as a starter burrow.  They will excavate more space if they need it, but they don't seem to figure out that they can move substrate into a hide that's too big.

*Feeding*

The ideal meal size is no bigger than the tarantula's abdomen.  If you have slings, you can dice mealworms or give them cricket drumsticks.  (Slings will often scavenge on pre-killed prey.)

These species have slow metabolisms, so you only need to feed juveniles and adults 2-4 times a month (depending on the size of the meal).  Try to avoid overfeeding, as a fat tarantula is more vulnerable to falls and may scrape its abdomen while dragging it around.  (Slings, however, can be fed as much as they will eat.  I generally feed mine about twice a week.)

As a new keeper, I used crickets, because I only needed a few, and they are readily available in pet stores.  Now that I have a few more tarantulas (fifteen), I have been moving away from crickets, as they smell bad and don't seem to be very hardy.  But for one tarantula, it's no big deal to pick up a few crickets from the pet store.

Other common feeder options include mealworms (the larvae of darkling beetles), superworms (the larvae of a bigger species), dubia roaches, and red runner roaches (smaller and faster than dubias).  If you can get over the gross-out factor of roaches, they make pretty good feeders, as they don't smell as bad as crickets, are hardier, and can't jump or climb (a big plus).

If you feed mealworms or superworms, be sure to crush the head.  This prevents injuries to your tarantula (they have strong mandibles) and prevents them from burrowing.  You can also crush roach heads to stop them from burrowing.  (Both mealworms and roaches will continue to wriggle for a long time despite having crushed heads; I think they actually die of thirst/hunger.)

*Cage Maintenance*

Species that can be kept on dry substrate generally have low maintenance requirements.  If you see any boluses (the indigestible remains of prey) or uneaten prey, remove it.  You can keep it on the same substrate for a long time; I generally only change mine when rehousing.

Get a pair of long tongs for doing your cage maintenance.  It reduces the risk of bites and reduces exposure to urticating hairs.  (Most New World species have a special patch of hairs on the abdomen that can be shed or flicked as a defense mechanism.  If they get on your skin, they may cause an itchy rash.  You don't want to get them in your eyes; that requires a trip to the doctor's office.

Wash your hands after feeding, doing enclosure maintenance, or handling the tarantula.

*Handling*

Handling is generally discouraged, as it risks injury/death/escape without providing any benefit to the tarantula.  (Tarantulas do not enjoy being handled.  At best, they tolerate it.)  However, if you do choose to handle, I would limit the frequency, and I would always do so no more than a few inches above a soft surface with a catch cup handy in case it falls or bolts.

*Molting*

If you ever see her on her back or on her side, do not disturb her.  This is perfectly normal.  It means she is molting (shedding her old exoskeleton).  That's a vulnerable time for tarantulas, so you don't want to risk injury by messing with her or startling her.

During pre-molt, your tarantula may refuse food.  After molting, she will be hungry, but don't feed her until her fangs turn black.  (Soft fangs might break.)  Just keep her water dish full and leave her alone.

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## wingedcoatl (Dec 26, 2018)

Once you have your first T for a while, I am like 90% certain that you will want more, and relatively soon! They are truly amazing creatures, and require very little time invested to flourish. The species you listed as potential seconds is great with the aforementioned exception of E murinus, which is a little more advanced in my opinion. They are more likely to be a defensive pet hole, and need a certain amount of humidity to thrive. If you're looking for something a little easier and are willing to accept something with stripes that are a little less dramatic, I recommend Aphonopelma seemanni. 

In the event that you become serious about the hobby I heartily endorse picking up a 3rd edition copy of Stanley and Marguerite Schultz "The Tarantula Keeper's Guide." It's a little out of date, but provides a pretty sturdy foundation, and the best part is you don't have to wait on an answer from a forum or have internet access handy to reference it. It has some errata available online too that updated until 2014 at https://people.ucalgary.ca/~schultz/errata3.html. Looks like they stopped updating at that point as they prepare 4th edition.


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## Pa Uchok (Dec 27, 2018)

PhilMcWonder said:


> You are getting a Brachypelma boehmei right?
> Brachypelma in general are pretty chill. Some are quick to kick hairs but most are very calm.
> If I recall correctly brachypelma smithi and/or Brachypelma hamorii are the ones that are prone to kick hairs a lot.
> Not sure about Brachypelma boehmei though...


I'm sure that not long after I joined AB I saw a post that listed the Brachypelma spp. in order of perceived calmness. But I've never been able to find it again - did I imagine it, or does anyone else know the post I mean?


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## The Grym Reaper (Dec 27, 2018)

Pa Uchok said:


> I'm sure that not long after I joined AB I saw a post that listed the Brachypelma spp. in order of perceived calmness. But I've never been able to find it again - did I imagine it, or does anyone else know the post I mean?


Don't know about the post you mentioned but B. albopilosum are generally the calmest whereas B. auratum and B. boehmei are generally the most skittish and most prone to kicking hairs.

B. vagans have wildly varying temperaments, some people have reported having specimens that are basically Satan whereas others can be docile or skittish.

You can always end up with oddballs (My B. boehmei has never kicked hairs at me) and a tarantula's temperament can change at any time (my once "docile" B. hamorii became evil as heck after a moult, she doesn't kick hairs though).

Reactions: Like 1


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## Torech Ungol (Dec 27, 2018)

Ungoliant said:


> That's what I do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have you stickied this somewhere that I missed? This is fantastic information, and would be a wonderful primer to which to direct new keepers. Thank you for the thought and time you put into this.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Ungoliant (Dec 27, 2018)

Torech Ungol said:


> Have you stickied this somewhere that I missed? This is fantastic information, and would be a wonderful primer to which to direct new keepers. Thank you for the thought and time you put into this.


No, I just have it saved as a text file.


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## The Grym Reaper (Dec 27, 2018)

Ungoliant said:


> _Nhandu chromatus_ is similar to _Acanthoscurria geniculata_ in temperament and care. (They're not defensive, but they have a very enthusiastic food response, so don't put your fingers in the enclosure.)


Nhandu generally range from skittish to somewhat defensive (you're fairly likely to get threat postures/slapping from them once they realise something isn't food), Acanthoscurria are generally a bit calmer but can be a bit on the skittish side (tend to walk away once they realise something isn't food, may kick hairs if further provoked).

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Ungoliant (Dec 27, 2018)

The Grym Reaper said:


> Acanthoscurria are generally a bit calmer but can be a bit on the skittish side (tend to walk away once they realise something isn't food, may kick hairs if further provoked).


My genic has recently discovered that he can kick hairs in protest if I do anything in the enclosure but give him food.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## wingedcoatl (Dec 27, 2018)

Ungoliant said:


> _A very good primer on keeping dry terrestrial tarantulas_


Would it be worth my time to modify this document slightly, make a new thread, and invite people to expand/amend it with the goal of getting it stickied? I feel like a lot of the question threads on this site come from concerned newbies whose problems have solutions baked into basic husbandry. It might be nice to be able to point these people to a living, cohesive document that outlines basic care - and maybe a section on those "is my T sick?" questions that seem to pop up on a very regular basis.


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## Ungoliant (Dec 28, 2018)

wingedcoatl said:


> Would it be worth my time to modify this document slightly, make a new thread, and invite people to expand/amend it with the goal of getting it stickied?


Honestly, right now we have such a glut of pinned threads on this board (an entire page down before you get to current threads) that I would be reluctant to add another pin to this board without unpinning one of the existing pinned threads.

If @Arachnopets doesn't mind, I'm not opposed to replacing the thread from 2009.  I'd generally prefer that stickied threads be started by a moderator, since regular members can't edit their own posts after 12-48 hours (making their pinned threads more of a time capsule with replies than a current index/resource).


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## wingedcoatl (Dec 28, 2018)

Not being able to edit would certainly be an impediment to making a proper "living" document. It would be great if a mod took up that banner


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## viper69 (Dec 30, 2018)

gregg097 said:


> Alright, thank you. I was just worried that everything in the house would have urticating hair on it and every stuffs my family touch in the house cause itchiness, I guess I was thinking too much.


There are times when urticating setae land on me and I haven't interacted with my Ts for 3 weeks. These are light structures that are carried by air currents quite easily.


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