# B. Lateralis care sheet



## YJHB

This is the care sheet I sent out with each of my B.Lateralis orders (now sold out, thank you for your orders!). I thought it may help the users here 

BLATTA LATERALIS CARE SHEET

You will notice I sent a healthy overcount of roaches; I want to see everybody succeed with this roach, and starting off with diverse genetics is a plus. That's the reason for all the egg cases with your shipment.

Once you get your roach colony going, you will be amazed at how easy it is to have a steady supply of roaches for your bug eating friends. Not only will you have to fight the urge to go out there and buy all the insectivores you want, but you'll also want to spread the word about roaches to  all your insectivore keeping friends! Crickets are a thing of the past, my friends...

Okay, here's a comprehensive look at what worked for me with these roaches. I researched and experimented for months to come up with this set up. Example photos will come separately right after this mailing.

SHOPPING LIST:
Glue gun
Stick glue for the glue gun
A popsicle stick
Scissors
Fine mesh screen
Wire shelf, shorter in length than the bin (see pix, mine is about 3/4 bin size)
LOTS of unused egg crates; the big square kind are the nicest.
Small paper plates
Bag of natural peat or ground sphagnum moss (BE SURE THERE'S NO FERTILIZER OR OTHER CHEMICALS IN THIS)
Bag of sand (REMEMBER, YOU WANT ALL SAND, NO COLORS OR CHEMICALS)
Spray bottle
Electrical tape
Small zip ties
Heat rope (I use the 14' length, only 25 watt for my big bins)
Electrical tape
SMOOTH packing tape

THE BIN
I use a BIG Rubbermaid container for my roaches; the biggest one I could find (31 gallons). Put packing tape around the top of the bin like I have pictured. Just wipe the packing tape every other day or so. This guarantees that even when your bin sides are dirty, the packing tape area will still stay slick so they can't climb out. Packing tape stands up well to moisture.

Get your scissors, the glue gun/glue, the fine mesh screen, the popsicle stick & the sandpaper. Take the lid and cut it out like I have. (for best reproductive speed, cut out only half like I did; the bin will stay warmer.) Sand a little all around where you will attach the screen to the inside of the lid, then dust off the crumbs. Cut the screen to fit,
and glue it to the lid, lightly zipping the popsicle stick over the glue while it's still hot to mash it in the screen and ensure a good seal.

HEAT & STANDING ROOM
Take a look at pic #004. The white thing under the crates is an upside down wire shelf I bought at Wal Mart. (That pic is my B. Dubia set up) You want that shelf under your crates to protect them from getting wet and stinky from constant contact with the roach's moist substrate. Put as many egg crates as will loosely fit on there to eyeball how many crates you can put on there. You want the crates at least five inches from the top.

I have had great success with heat rope. It's cheap to run. You should be able to see in the pix that I've put little holes through the container to run the rope through, then once I've run enough rope through I seal off the hole with hot glue and fasten the rope with electrical tape.

You'll see that electrical tape is wrapped quite far down the length of the rope inside the bin. (See #003) This is because I put it all the way down to the mark that shows where the rope heats up; B. Lateralis tend to nibble the cool portion of the rope, so this protects it. Don't put the electrical tape past the mark on the rope!

Zip tie the heat rope to the underside of the shelf, where the egg crates will go. Put a line of heat rope across the dry food dish; this will help keep their food dry. *Keep in mind that you don't want the shelf to pinch the heat cable!*  Also, don't allow heat rope to touch itself, as it can overheat and pose a fire hazard. I also think it's a bad idea also to zip tie the HOT portion of the rope too tightly to the wire so it has room to expand. The roaches will be able to choose how warm or how cool they want to be by moving up or down the crates.

SUBSTRATE
Take everything out of the bin, and scoop in 50% sand, 50% ground moss. You want the substrate to be about 3/4 inch deep. Mix it up well. Mist the area that will be under the crates with your spray bottle; you want the substrate moist but not wet. Don't mist the feeding area.

PUT YOUR SET UP TOGETHER:
Put the upside down shelf with the heat rope on it in the bin. Put as many egg crates as will fit on the shelf loosely. You'll probably notice that I have two upside down shelves in my B. Lateralis bin; because of the extreme numbers of roaches in there, I need as many crates as possible.

Firmly nestle two paper plates on the empty side of their enclosure, and pat down the substrate around the plates so they won't be tracking it all over their food. You are doing this because these are non climbers, and you need to make it so even the smallest neonate can eat. You won't have to do this again; B. Lateralis NEVER dig. You will be changing those plates every other day, at the minimum.

Make sure your packing tape area is clean.

Now, plug it in and put the lid on! You are ready for your shipment... 

CARE
B. Lateralis like it hot and humid. You can keep their heat rope on all the time until their numbers get to where you want. Then, plug the heat rope into a timer; I have mine set to be on for an hour then off for a half hour all day, then starting at 6pm, on for a half hour, off for a half hour all night until 6am to mimic the temp drop they experience at night in the wild. The hotter it is, the faster they'll breed for you. Once their numbers are enough and you are trying to slow their reproduction through lower temps, keep in mind that you never want them below 78 degrees for longer than one day, as it's detrimental to your colony...this is why they can't infest.

Pick up their egg crates (I pick up half at a time) and mist their substrate EVERY DAY. The heat rope will be fine; its made to handle this. If things seem too wet in there, you can hold off on misting for a day. You don't want their egg cases to dry out, but you don't want it sopping wet in there either. If your roaches start to have trouble moulting, you need to make it moister in there ASAP.

They eat all standard roach fare. They need dry food at ALL times; You could simply use NONMEDICATED chicken mash, but remember that corn is difficult to digest for most herps; Leopard geckos are an exception to this. I just buy Cricket food.com's roach food; it's by far the best, but you need to refridgerate it. It's nice to have a balanced roach diet already on hand instead of doing it yourself. The most important thing to remember about the dry food is to KEEP IT DRY, or your insects will end up with toxic gut contents. This is the reason for the section of heat rope over the dry food plate. Just scoop the dry food directly onto the heat rope. I provide fresh produce every day; oranges, apples, yams, carrots, zucchini & etc - they'll eat pretty much everything you want passed on to your insectivoire. If you are keeping these in your house like I am, stay away from stuff that makes you stink when you eat it, like cucumbers, lettuce, beans and etc. unless you are gutloading a small number of roaches, because gassy foods also are gassy foods to your roaches, haha...Don't supplement their food with calcium; its REALLY bad for them. Dust them instead just prior to feeding out. The females seem to appreciate occassional (once a week or so) jolts of protein. You can use fish food or dog food for this purpose. Don't use cat food, as it seems to make them stink. Try not to get the dog food with red dye in it; buy a brand with less tallow or fat, and little or preferably NO TAURINE. You want more natural ingredients. You don't need to grind it up, the females make short work of whole kibbles! 

YOU MUST WASH ALL PRODUCE WELL WITH WARM WATER AND DISH SOAP!  ASSUME EVERY UNWASHED PIECE OF PRODUCE HAS INSECTICIDES ON IT!

NEVER let their produce rot or their food/produce get mouldy. This may kill them, and some moulds (like the aspergillus found in their dry food if its allowed to get damp) are very toxic; the roaches may be fine, but the toxins can build up in your herp. Keep the food fresh and clean. This is why you need the screen in the lid; keep the screened side over the food area to help that area stay drier.  If you start having trouble with mites despite your best efforts to keep the food area dry and the food changed, just put gobs of gray isopods in there. They eat mites, clean up moulted skins, and eat all the dead roaches your colony doesn't get to first.

Clean the packing tape area by wiping it off every other day or so. These are non climbers, but if the bin sides are dirty or mite infested, the little ones can grip it and climb. Some ppl use vaseline, others use that bug stop...I've tried both, and neither one is nearly as good as plain old packing tape for non climbers, because it stays slick with just wiping it. The down side of bug stop is you need to reapply it every so often, and thats a REAL pain! I don't know if the packing tape works with climbing species, but it works like a charm with any non climber.

I can't think of anything else to include in this care sheet right now. blaberus.com has great, comprehensive care sheets too if you want to read up further, and the owner is a joy to deal with. Also, 'Richie the Roachman' has an amazing selection http://www.angelfire.com/oh2/Roaches/Roachman.html

Thanks again for your order!

Y
Pic of upside down shelf (B. Dubia enclosure)





Pic of empty set up with heat rope





Pic of B.Lateralis lid





Pic of B. Lateralis bin (raised THOUSANDS in this 31 gallon bin; heat rope across the food is missing because this was taken before the idea of putting the rope across the food to keep it dry)


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## Dom

Thanks for that!! It will help alot of us newbies out.
I just got some lateralis and dubia (thanks James) and I'm loving them.
One of the things that kept me from keeping insectivores was the cricket situation. Now that roaches are here I'm going to have to hold myself back .

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## YJHB

I know; it's a shame...I have the same problem you will soon have. I have Dubia and Lateralis as well; bought my initial starter roaches from James.

Thank goodness I sold most of these Lateralis-there was nothing to hold me back from stocking up on the insectivores once my cricket problem disappeared, haha!


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## jojobear

YJHB said:
			
		

> I You can use fish food or dog food for this purpose. Don't use cat food, as it seems to make them stink.


Is this for all brands of cat food or just the cheap ones??? Or is this a B. lateralis specific issue? I have been making my own "Roach Chow" for a number of reasons. One is I know what is in it and two is it is cheaper for me in the long run and three I always have the ingredients on hand. I have been using cat food in it and haven't found a problem with smell. But I am also using a more expensive brand of cat food  that has no dyes or fish in it. I just wait for sales and coupons and it ends up being about the same price as cheap stuff (my roaches eat better than I do).  Just curious...

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## YJHB

My Lateralis roaches (I had THOUSANDS) descended from approximately 75 individuals I bought from James in early May. I've only been into roaches for that long. So, I've only tried one brand of cat food called Castor and Pollux, a rather expensive brand that is all natural, the first ingredient being chicken. They breed like crazy on the cricketfood.com stuff (no, I won't make any money or friends if you go there)

Lateralis like it humid and moist, with a substrate composed of half sand, half sphagnum moss...I mist the substrate every day, so it's prone to developing odors. The addition of this cat food seems to push it right over the edge, but this is the only brand I tried. As long as I use it in small amounts, everything's okay. They aren't as protein hungry as orange heads. When they do devour a moulting roach it's usually a male, which is alright 

No fish in the cat food helps with the odor? Jeez, this brand has herring meal as the third ingredient  

No wonder...

Oh, one more thing...if you keep touchy herps like chameleons (I have three) then be careful of the corn content; it is harder for your herps to digest. Here is a good article on the subject in the off chance you haven't read it. http://www.chameleonnews.com/gutload.html


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## Beth-Tex

Good info there for folks who want to get into the roach breeding project. 

As for me.....well.....maybe I seem to have the "touch".......'cause I do not mist the lateralis nor do I keep them constantly above 78 degrees & they are breeding like crazy......I had gotten an initial 10 a few months ago just to see what they were like & now have a couple of hundred.......I don't use a heating pad as they are kept at room temps just like my dubias (of which I have wayyyyy toooo many).....maybe I am just lucky in all of this.......we have the heat come on usually around 75 & it turns off at around 77.......(since we are a bit arthritic we don't have it too cold in the house in the winter)......sometimes depending on situations,  we have the heat up to 78.......but the roaches seem to be just fine with this.....since they are breeding so much, it is a blessing to slow them down a bit.....hehe

As I said.....this all may be just a fluke.....but in my case.....if any of the lateralis got out on me, they would probably infest the house because they are breeding just fine at our house temps......but.....that is just my case.....  

I just got back from a trip to Calif & took some of my baby Ts with me as my T sitter only took care of the larger Ts.  In order to feed my babies & not have to buy any food, I took my lateralis with me (in a smaller container) & they did just fine in the car on the way there & back.   I did not pay any attention to heat other than for my own comfort & that was fine with the roaches.  I really like the lateralis, they seem to be hardy & are quite pretty.  Their staple diet is ground up Canidae & Chicken Soup for the Dog Lovers Soul Dog Food.......these are premium dog foods & are natural ingredients.  We feed this food to our dog.  For moisture, I mostly use the water crystals which are kept in the enclosure at all times & I add apples or carrots or other veggies a couple of times a week.  Seems to be working. 

Beth

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## YJHB

After selling these for a bit, I was told by an individual who has been in the roach business since the mid 50's (Richie Roachman)  that this species can become a  pest in the following states-  California, Arizona, Utah and Texas. I stopped selling them to ppl in these states. You are in TX. You raising Lateralis over there is akin to me raising oriental roaches (pest in PA) over here. Of course I wouldn't need to modify their enclosure much, they can live outside it, yikes!

I did try to lower the humidity in my Lateralis bin - with disasterous consequences...many died as they tried to moult, and many more lost legs during their moults. It was ugly.

Sounds like you REALLY are great with roaches! My Dubia aren't taking off as quickly as I hoped, but their colony is finally big enough to feed some off; I have 800 now out of 100 starting individuals in April.


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## GoTerps

> As for me.....well.....maybe I seem to have the "touch".......'cause I do not mist the lateralis nor do I keep them constantly above 78 degrees & they are breeding like crazy


I also do not keep my _B. lateralis_ moist.  

I have a very large, successful _B. lateralis_ colony that is kept completely dry.  Kept around 80 degrees.  Only moisture that is provided is from fruits and veggies.  They do great like this and breed like crazy.

The above colony is on pure dry peat, but I've recently seperated off a second colony that is on no substrate at all, so far so good.


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## YJHB

Yer makin' me want to move to Texas...


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## Beth-Tex

Guess we have enough humidity.  LOL

Beth

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## YJHB

Instead of the underhanded remarks (thanks for the flashback to junior high), how about following my lead and trying to be helpful? I cannot allow my Lateralis to dry out...they lose legs and lives. I would love to know how to safely dry  them out. Also, they CANNOT live in my house. They do die. It is not pesticides, because they die in the same room they got loose in. Which is good; I am not crazy enough to keep thousands of a species of roach in my house if it could survive the conditions outside its bin. Feeling smart now?


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## dtknow

To add some stuff to this(I am also in CA)...what would be the lowest temp these guys can stand? Mind volunteering a few roaches for an experiment?


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## YJHB

dtknow said:
			
		

> To add some stuff to this(I am also in CA)...what would be the lowest temp these guys can stand? Mind volunteering a few roaches for an experiment?


Here's a great link to care sheets.  http://www.blaberus.com/Documents/Roach Care sheet.pdf

James Tuttle says in this sheet that "dropping most tropical species below 70F for anything longer than 24 hours is asking for trouble", and Roachman Willis tells me (as I reiterated above) that Lateralis have been identified as pest species in  California, Arizona, Utah and Texas. I do not feel smart enough to argue with the experts.

Alternatively, you could ask Beth - she's feelin' lucky today, antagonizing me and feeling smarter than the two top sellers of roaches.


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## YJHB

Connecting the dots here - if the Blatta Lateralis roach happens to be kept by individuals living in the right areas of the aforementioned states, what this means is they CAN live outside their bins perhaps long enough to breed. So, it would naturally follow that few modifications to their bin environment would need to be made by owners keeping them in these geographic areas.

As far as the misting thing, I was instructed by James (owner of blaberus.com) that they need misted every day. Within three months of setting up my bin with 75 or 80 some odd Lateralis, misting them usually every day, I was literally overrun with half mature nymphs. Within 4 months, I was giving them away to my friends. Within five months I was selling thousands of them on the Internet.

Maybe my method doesn't actually work, what do I know. If anyone else can truthfully say they have better results with a different set up in states that Lateralis is NOT a pest species, please by all means speak up. I posted here to try to  be of help. Hopefully, my post was of help to somebody. So far I've heard a lot of opinions... from ppl who live in regions Lateralis are known to infest. Good for them, Lateralis can live okay with no modification to their bins for these ppl. Maybe I should get in on the infestation station craze and start up a colony of German or Oriental roaches IMMEDIATELY!


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## Randolph XX()

I think this should be the sticky

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## Dom

Hey YJHB,
I don't think Beth-tex is trying to antaganize you, just stating an observation. Since the species is known to become a pest in Texas it makes sense that they wouldn't have to heat them or provide extra humidity.(S)he may not realize that many of us come from areas where the humidity and temps are quite low. Right now the room with my roaches is 62F and a humidity of about 25%, certainly not ideal breeding conditions for most bugs.The room will get colder and drier as the winter progresses. I'd like to see any kind of egg make it through incubation with a 25% ambient humidity.

Your care-sheet is great for those of us who live in areas where we have low humidity and temps.

An observation I have made is that I put a singledubia and a single lateralis in a cage that fluctuates between the low to high '60's F. The dubia became sluggish and didn't appear to be in top form. The lateralis on the other hand seemed to be just fine. They may be a fairly adaptable species.

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## YJHB

Beth-Tex said:
			
		

> Guess we have enough humidity.  LOL
> 
> Beth


Actually, I took no offense until this comment which caught me at a bad moment...

They probably are very adaptable, but as you say the egg cases are the weak link.

Thank you for that - makes it so worthwhile to know someone liked the care sheet . I put a lot of work into it.


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## Beth-Tex

*sigh*
:8o 
I meant no offense at all.........am sorry if it came off as if I did......was only responding to GoTerps post..............trying to make a joke.......which fell flat.  Sorry.

I am not a native Texan.......was born in Germany......raised there......have lived in North Dakota for a number of years......do know about cold & low humidity.....lived in California for over 30 years......only recently moved to Texas in 2000.......was only joking & commenting on the humidity here which I am NOT used to yet & the effect it has on bug raising.

Your care sheet is excellent & no disrespect was intended.  I really did not think that my comments were cutting your hard work......was just trying to make a post & tell about my experience here with my bugs.  

Beth :8o

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## YJHB

:8o 
Sorry, Beth; I did take it the wrong way then. When you posted that single comment (I never got so touchy before, don't know what my malfunction was), I thought "is there something about TX humidity that's common knowledge?" Thanks for understanding  

Anyway, probably the key to insane Lateralis productivity is keeping their heat source OFF their substrate. I found this out by accident when I first was keeping them and trying different things. My first set up had the heat rope attached to the egg crates (no good because you can't move them). Then, I moved the heat rope under the substrate at which point production fell WAY off.

Beth, over in Germany they are doing something with their day geckos that is wildly successfull. Their day gex have HUGE calcium sacks that are unheard of over here. It is thought that maybe they are using snails to achieve this. Have you heard anything about what they are doing? Germany and Europe in general are two steps ahead of us with their herps and inverts...


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## Anthony

I think your efforts and willingness to share them are much appreciated, probably more than you think.Thank you very much.


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## YJHB

Aawww, thank you 

If anything will be THE cricket replacement, I do believe its B. Lateralis, even in the few geographic areas they can infest. Crix are accomplished infestors, but its just that when ppl hear the word "roach", or worse yet "cockroach" they are repulsed. They are easier to breed and raise, and are superior feeders, pure and simple. 

I'm sure that if kept with appropriate precautions, Lateralis can be safely kept in TX, CA & all the other states where they have potential to be a pest - moats around their bins, boric acid on the floor of their room and in bait in their room, and etc.


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## Dom

Yes, roaches are FAR superior to crickets in all aspects. I'm really getting a kick out of my colonies.

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## jojobear

Thank you for the answer to my cat food question, and thanks for such a great care sheet. I am in the process of building up some new colonies of roaches for feeding and fun; and B. lateralis are on my list. So far I have B. dubias (orange spot), B. fusca (dwarf cave), B. dicoidis (discoids), B. giganteus (giant cave), E. prosticus (orange heads), G. portentosa (hissers), H. Subcincta (glow spot roaches). 

Off Topic a bit--Day gex need exposure to real sunlight, not just UV lights to get those great big Calcium sacks. I used to keep mine in a southern exposed window that I would open when the weather was appropriate.

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## YJHB

jojobear said:
			
		

> Thank you for the answer to my cat food question, and thanks for such a great care sheet. I am in the process of building up some new colonies of roaches for feeding and fun; and B. lateralis are on my list. So far I have B. dubias (orange spot), B. fusca (dwarf cave), B. dicoidis (discoids), B. giganteus (giant cave), E. prosticus (orange heads), G. portentosa (hissers), H. Subcincta (glow spot roaches).
> 
> Off Topic a bit--Day gex need exposure to real sunlight, not just UV lights to get those great big Calcium sacks. I used to keep mine in a southern exposed window that I would open when the weather was appropriate.


Well, when you're ready for Lateralis, I'd trade for equal numbers of Dubia... my Dubia colony is only 900 or so individuals; I'm afraid to feed them out yet. AND I am SO JEALOUS you have Glow spots! I'd trade 100 to 1 to get my hands on some of those! Let me know when you breed the little cuties! you even have dwarf caves...my, you have some goodies!
I had a Koch's day gecko for 9 years but he died from a prolapsed cloaca. It was completely my fault, I was moving and didn't realize he was having problems because I wasn't looking in on him like I should have been. I still think about him. I've heard of German success with the day gex; I wondered what was going on! You have to do the same with chameleons, but that's to ensure they don't get MBD, the touchy beasts.


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## Venari

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I'm curious: Is providing water gel/crystals sufficient to hydrate Lats, or would you actually have to mist to provide humidity?

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## Moose9

I live in California and raise B. lateralis roaches as well. B. lateralis roaches showed up here around 5 years ago and we have never had any infestation of any kind. This particular species of roach requires more damp humid conditions than most households can provide. I agree with the OP, this species can live outside here in Ca. but not likely in my opinion to infest your home. 

With all the escapes I have had, if there was to be a problem, I would of seen it by now. They also don't like cool temps below 60F. I have seen them survive temps down to the mid 30's, but not long. We start seeing them around Spring through late Summer, then they disappear till the following year. Always take precautions when raising such species.

I also agree with cat food, don't use it, at least the cheap stuff. It increased the odor in all my roaches, not just the B. lateralis species. Mine seem to do better at higher humidity too. I live in the desert and most of time humidity is only around 9%-12%, very dry. I have never used substrate or mist them and produced tens of thousands last year. I just keep a dish or two full of water gel depending on size of colony and it keeps the humidity up just fine.

A tip for anyone worried about escapes, put out a container(s) of water along a wall. Catches them pretty quick. They seek out water and end up falling in and drowning. Not only do I catch any escapes, but I also catch any strays that wonder in from outside. 

All mentioned herein has been from my experience and observation and is just my opinion.

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## KramEam

how do you avoid ANTS to Infest Your Lats?

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## KramEam

How Do You Avoid Your Lats To Get Infested By ANTS?

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## Vfox

KramEam said:


> How Do You Avoid Your Lats To Get Infested By ANTS?


Wow this really is an old post...useful though so its good it was revived. As for the ant issues. You could do a number of things. You could put a solid row of sticky traps all around the tank or if your tank is small enough sit it in a shallow baking pan (or a larger bin that was cut down) and add water. It basically creates a mote that the ants cannot cross. If all else fails, but vasoline on the outside of your bin...it's messy, but should work.

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## fireblade929

i came across this old post....gosh i learned a lot more than when i was in college  i knew this board woudl be a lot of help!

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## YJHB

Venari said:


> Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I'm curious: Is providing water gel/crystals sufficient to hydrate Lats, or would you actually have to mist to provide humidity?


I really don't know!  I got out of roaches when I had kids in 2006.  Now those kids are interested in animals that eat roaches, so I've come back full circle to check on my most favorite care sheet


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## YJHB

Beth-Tex said:


> *sigh*
> :8o
> I meant no offense at all.........am sorry if it came off as if I did......was only responding to GoTerps post..............trying to make a joke.......which fell flat.  Sorry.
> 
> I am not a native Texan.......was born in Germany......raised there......have lived in North Dakota for a number of years......do know about cold & low humidity.....lived in California for over 30 years......only recently moved to Texas in 2000.......was only joking & commenting on the humidity here which I am NOT used to yet & the effect it has on bug raising.
> 
> Your care sheet is excellent & no disrespect was intended.  I really did not think that my comments were cutting your hard work......was just trying to make a post & tell about my experience here with my bugs.
> 
> Beth :8o


Wow, I am a different person than I was 16 years ago... reading this thread with new (old) eyes is showing me that I've gotten so much less 'touchy'.  I also seem to have forgotten half the crap I learned about keeping roaches, because now my care sheet is helping ME. hahaa

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## Introvertebrate

Age mellows.          ..............and your views on lat care?  Have they changed?


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