# Scolopendra subspinipes/dehaani How to work with them



## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 11, 2018)

Hi guys, I’ve been keeping a Rhysida Longipes (African Longtail Centipede) and a Scutigera coleoptrata (House Centipede) with success, but a local exotic pet shop has a Vietmamese Centipede for sale (judging by coloration, I think it’s a S. dehaani), and I’ve always wanted a Giant Centipede, but my parents (mainly dad) don’t feel that I could safely keep a centipede of that size and nasty disposition. So I would like some kind (and convincing ) advice to show him that they can safely be worked with, and that I could keep one with success. I feel I have enough experience with inverts (B. hamorii, T. stirmi, 2 C. torreyas, and the centipedes listed above), that I have general care down (humidity levels, substrate, etc.) so I just need advice on how to work with them. Sorry I talk so much, but advice would be definitely appreciated. Thx again! 

P.S. there’s a pic to help with I.D. (It’s about 6 inches)


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## NYAN (Jul 11, 2018)

That’s a scolopendra dehanni. I’m not sure what advise I can give as to ‘working with them.’ I supoose common sense is needed ie: don’t handle it unless you’re prepared to be bitten. The venom of this species is awful, you should read bite reports and see photos to get an idea. their attitude is skittish, they are fast and they burrow a lot also, they won’t attack you and perfer to hide. Use of tongs is recommended for cage maintenance. Centipedes are escape artists also, they can be kept in a tall container which lock. I keep most of my Pedes in plastic storage tubs with holes drilled or poked in them. Also, not recommended but I had the same species when I was half your age. Im curious how much is it being sold for?


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## RTTB (Jul 11, 2018)

Good advice given already. Escape proof tubs and long tongs along with other precautionary measures(like when doing maintenance put the enclosure inside a big tall tub) and you will do fine. Never be in a hurry and no distractions are my rule of thumb when working with the big centipedes.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## StampFan (Jul 11, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Hi guys, I’ve been keeping a Rhysida Longipes (African Longtail Centipede) and a Scutigera coleoptrata (House Centipede) with success, but a local exotic pet shop has a Vietmamese Centipede for sale (judging by coloration, I think it’s a S. dehaani), and I’ve always wanted a Giant Centipede, but my parents (mainly dad) don’t feel that I could safely keep a centipede of that size and nasty disposition. So I would like some kind (and convincing ) advice to show him that they can safely be worked with, and that I could keep one with success. I feel I have enough experience with inverts (B. hamorii, T. stirmi, 2 C. torreyas, and the centipedes listed above), that I have general care down (humidity levels, substrate, etc.) so I just need advice on how to work with them. Sorry I talk so much, but advice would be definitely appreciated. Thx again!
> 
> P.S. there’s a pic to help with I.D. (It’s about 6 inches)


If you're 16, and in a couple of years you're going to leave that house and likely go off to some sort of post-secondary, likely where you cannot take a pet like this, your parents' concerns are valid.  It could live beyond what you're expecting.  Similarly, if you have younger siblings, having a pet like this with smaller children is similarly a concern.  Sounds like parents being parents.  Every parent has a line that has to be drawn.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Chris LXXIX (Jul 11, 2018)

Ah ah, well, as stated, the venom of such 'pede is quite brutal. Brutal, like a 'Mortal Kombat' 'Brutality'. 

So don't get tagged son, and stay safe.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## NYAN (Jul 11, 2018)

I think if his parents allow it, he should go for it. Centipedes are amazing animals and are fun pets given you exercise caution and respect them.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

NYAN said:


> That’s a scolopendra dehanni. I’m not sure what advise I can give as to ‘working with them.’ I supoose common sense is needed ie: don’t handle it unless you’re prepared to be bitten. The venom of this species is awful, you should read bite reports and see photos to get an idea. their attitude is skittish, they are fast and they burrow a lot also, they won’t attack you and perfer to hide. Use of tongs is recommended for cage maintenance. Centipedes are escape artists also, they can be kept in a tall container which lock. I keep most of my Pedes in plastic storage tubs with holes drilled or poked in them. Also, not recommended but I had the same species when I was half your age. Im curious how much is it being sold for?


When I say “working with them”, I mean stuff like transfers, cleaning water dishes, feedings, etc. And I believe it is 30 bucks.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> When I say “working with them”, I mean stuff like transfers, cleaning water dishes, feedings, etc. And I already took a look at the bite reports, and, to say the least, NOBODY should want to get tagged by one lol. But with using common sense and taking precautions, the risk of a bite is definitely minimized (which is the point I’m trying to get across to my dad). And I believe it is 30 bucks.


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## NYAN (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> When I say “working with them”, I mean stuff like transfers, cleaning water dishes, feedings, etc. And I believe it is 30 bucks.


Get a big sterling tub. Should only be necessary to do one transfer that way. I use bottlecaps or small deli cups, I can use tongs to grab them that way. For feedings I drop crickets, roaches, superworms, fruit, frozen thawed pinky mice, meat, whatever else and then use tongs to remove it. Some of my pedes are socialized and therefore I put my hands in there to handle them and do maintenance, I would NOT recommend this with a dehanni. $30 is a good price, expos tend to have them for less but if you don’t plan on going to one it is better than paying shipping.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

NYAN said:


> Get a big sterling tub. Should only be necessary to do one transfer that way. I use bottlecaps or small deli cups, I can use tongs to grab them that way. For feedings I drop crickets, roaches, superworms, fruit, frozen thawed pinky mice, meat, whatever else and then use tongs to remove it. Some of my pedes are socialized and therefore I put my hands in there to handle them and do maintenance, I would NOT recommend this with a dehanni. $30 is a good price, expos tend to have them for less but if you don’t plan on going to one it is better than paying shipping.


Yup, I definitely wasn't planning on socializing a dehaani, lol. And do you think that I could house one in a 10 gallon aquarium with a sliding/locking lid? I know that Sterlite tubs are probably more ideal, but I love having my animals in good looking enclosures . I know a big key to escape proof centipede enclosures is height, which is why I feel that a 10 gallon tank would be alright. And as I mentioned earlier, the lid locks, but do you think I'll have to replace the metal screen with plexiglass with holes drilled into it? Because I've heard that they can chew through certain metal and mesh screens.


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## NYAN (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Yup, I definitely wasn't planning on socializing a dehaani, lol. And do you think that I could house one in a 10 gallon aquarium with a sliding/locking lid? I know that Sterlite tubs are probably more ideal, but I love having my animals in good looking enclosures . I know a big key to escape proof centipede enclosures is height, which is why I feel that a 10 gallon tank would be alright. And as I mentioned earlier, the lid locks, but do you think I'll have to replace the metal screen with plexiglass with holes drilled into it? Because I've heard that they can chew through certain metal and mesh screens.


People like tubs for a variety of reasons and their ability to maintain moisture is one of them. I had a dehanni in a screen enclosure and the substrate needed to be moistened very often. Plexiglass would be a solution to that. I am aware you want to see your animal, the tubs I use are pretty clear and I can easily see inside. I’ve also heard of them ‘chewing’ mesh but I think that’s a bit of an exaggeration. They can’t really chew but more so pry it apart I believe, a good mesh won’t allow that, but again a tub is best. Funny thing I’ve been woken up my my heros trying to squeeze though the lid of its tub.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

StampFan said:


> If you're 16, and in a couple of years you're going to leave that house and likely go off to some sort of post-secondary, likely where you cannot take a pet like this, your parents' concerns are valid.  It could live beyond what you're expecting.  Similarly, if you have younger siblings, having a pet like this with smaller children is similarly a concern.  Sounds like parents being parents.  Every parent has a line that has to be drawn.


Yup, I have a younger sister, but she's 13 and I doubt she'll want to go anywhere near it, lol. And I definitely respect the fact that my dad just wants me to be safe and out of harms way. But I guess what I'm trying to prove is that giant pedes CAN be kept safely and that I can reassure them that I'm up to the task and that it can be done with no one having a hospital visit, or a 8 inch centipede being on the loose in the house.


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## NYAN (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Yup, I have a younger sister, but she's 13 and I doubt she'll want to go anywhere near it, lol. And I definitely respect the fact that my dad just wants me to be safe and out of harms way. But I guess what I'm trying to prove is that giant pedes CAN be kept safely and that I can reassure them that I'm up to the task and that it can be done with no one having a hospital visit, or a 8 inch centipede being on the loose in the house.


Other giant Pedes that pack less of a punch are heros. They usually go for $100 ish though. Also the brutal truth use that most people just have to wait out the effects of the venom. Pain killers such as morphine don’t touch pede venom, you’ll get a tetanus shot though. When I was bitten by my hainanum I didn’t need to seek medical attention, I cleaned the bite site and just waited.

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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

NYAN said:


> People like tubs for a variety of reasons and their ability to maintain moisture is one of them. I had a dehanni in a screen enclosure and the substrate needed to be moistened very often. Plexiglass would be a solution to that. I am aware you want to see your animal, the tubs I use are pretty clear and I can easily see inside. I’ve also heard of them ‘chewing’ mesh but I think that’s a bit of an exaggeration. They can’t really chew but more so pry it apart I believe, a good mesh won’t allow that, but again a tub is best. Funny thing I’ve been woken up my my heros trying to squeeze though the lid of its tub.


I would love to get my hands on a heros man, such a cool-looking and unique pede. And, would you mind posting a link or just some detailed pics of what your tubs look like?


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

NYAN said:


> Other giant Pedes that pack less of a punch are heros. They usually go for $100 ish though. Also the brutal truth use that most people just have to wait out the effects of the venom. Pain killers such as morphine don’t touch pede venom, you’ll get a tetanus shot though. When I was bitten by my hainanum I didn’t need to seek medical attention, I cleaned the bite site and just waited.


Good to know, and I think Ken The Bug Guy has some heros arizonensis for sale, but they're kinda pricey like you said.


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## NYAN (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> I would love to get my hands on a heros man, such a cool-looking and unique pede. And, would you mind posting a link or just some detailed pics of what your tubs look like?


The tubs themselves or the setups? I don’t have pics but essentially it’s just 3-4 inches of substrate which is a mix of eco earth and sand, some of my enclosures also have moss but most don’t. I also have 1-2 pieces of cork bark or something to act as a hiding place and a water dish.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

I guess the set-ups. And that's the same substrate I use for my two trapdoors and my two pedes. So I'd say we're on the same page in that department


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## NYAN (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Good to know, and I think Ken The Bug Guy has some heros arizonensis for sale, but they're kinda pricey like you said.


Yeah I saw that actually also. I paid $220 for one of mine... shipping cost sucks lol. Price has gone down since then. They are great Pedes, I have 3 heros.


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## NYAN (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> I guess the set-ups. And that's the same substrate I use for my two trapdoors and my two pedes. So I'd say we're on the same page in that department


Yeah, I would add some sphagnum moss even since it’s a more tropical pede. I should probably do that also.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

NYAN said:


> Yeah, I would add some sphagnum moss even since it’s a more tropical pede. I should probably do that also.


Will do, and I currently live in Illinois and the shop is located to where I'm moving to (Tennessee) in a couple weeks. My dad said that I wont be getting anymore animals until we move into the new house and get settled in. So I'll let you know how everything turns out


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## NYAN (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Will do, and I currently live in Illinois and the shop is located to where I'm moving to (Tennessee) in a couple weeks. My dad said that I wont be getting anymore animals until we move into the new house and get settled in. So I'll let you know how everything turns out


Sounds like you’re all set then. Keep us posted!

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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

Thanks again everyone for your input and kind advice!!

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## StampFan (Jul 12, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Yup, I definitely wasn't planning on socializing a dehaani, lol. And do you think that I could house one in a 10 gallon aquarium with a sliding/locking lid? I know that Sterlite tubs are probably more ideal, but I love having my animals in good looking enclosures . I know a big key to escape proof centipede enclosures is height, which is why I feel that a 10 gallon tank would be alright. And as I mentioned earlier, the lid locks, but do you think I'll have to replace the metal screen with plexiglass with holes drilled into it? Because I've heard that they can chew through certain metal and mesh screens.


They can also climb the silicone in the corners....you can see some visual evidence of this on YouTube.  Makes a secure lid on a glass aquarium even more important as even if you give lots of space above the substrate it can get to the top when it wants to....also, if there is *any* gap in the mesh lid you could have an issue, locking top or not...needs to be completely flush.  These are smarter inverts that have some ability to problem solve if they want to escape.

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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

StampFan said:


> They can also climb the silicone in the corners....you can see some visual evidence of this on YouTube.  Makes a secure lid on a glass aquarium even more important as even if you give lots of space above the substrate it can get to the top when it wants to....also, if there is *any* gap in the mesh lid you could have an issue, locking top or not...needs to be completely flush.  These are smarter inverts that have some ability to problem solve if they want to escape.


Good to know, and I’ll definitely keep that in mind. Thx!


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## Bill S (Jul 12, 2018)

I keep several of my centipedes in 10 gallon aquariums - as you say, it looks nicer.  And I've got several different lids on them.  I've learned the hard way that the lids have to fit snugly and have a heavy enough weight on them to keep the centipede from lifting the lid.  Snug-fitting by itself isn't enough.  I have a 20 gallon breeding tank that has a divider in it, and when I put a pair of prospective breeders in it I can separate them until they show interest, or at least tolerance of each other - then the screen divider comes out.  On a recent pairing I removed the male after they mated so I could return him to his own cage.  When I went back to get the female I discovered she had managed to pry the lid up in one corner and make her escape.  (Fortunately she got recaptured the next night.)  Now I place a board across the lid of each aquarium and put a weight on top of the board.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 12, 2018)

Bill S said:


> I keep several of my centipedes in 10 gallon aquariums - as you say, it looks nicer.  And I've got several different lids on them.  I've learned the hard way that the lids have to fit snugly and have a heavy enough weight on them to keep the centipede from lifting the lid.  Snug-fitting by itself isn't enough.  I have a 20 gallon breeding tank that has a divider in it, and when I put a pair of prospective breeders in it I can separate them until they show interest, or at least tolerance of each other - then the screen divider comes out.  On a recent pairing I removed the male after they mated so I could return him to his own cage.  When I went back to get the female I discovered she had managed to pry the lid up in one corner and make her escape.  (Fortunately she got recaptured the next night.)  Now I place a board across the lid of each aquarium and put a weight on top of the board.


Do you mind posting some pics of the lid for me? I’m trying to get a feel for what I may want to do for an enclosure if the parents allow me to get one. Thx


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## Bill S (Jul 13, 2018)

The ones I use (that I like best) are like the ones in the link below.  They used to make hinged ones that were divided lengthwise, and I like those best.  They may still make them,but I didn't see them listed when I did this search.  You should still pay close attention to ow well the fit - put some weather stripping between the aquarium and the cover if there's any kind of gap.  And place a board on top with a weight to keep centipedes from prying the lid open (you'd be surprised how well they can do that).
http://exo-terra.com/en/products/screen_cover_new.php


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## AZCeptipede (Jul 14, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Good to know, and I think Ken The Bug Guy has some heros arizonensis for sale, but they're kinda pricey like you said.


I live in Tucson and I can vouch for Ken. His animals are all beautiful, I saw the pedes he had in stock about a week ago and they were big and healthy looking. I don't know if he has any pictures on his website but he also has a really nice bearded dragon, a gorgeous python, and a ton of Ts .

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## Scoly (Jul 14, 2018)

You're getting plenty advice on lids & enclosures, which you should heed, but not much advice on manoeuvring a large dehaani (I use that word to avoid confusing with handling) so I'll see if I can help you out.

There's a few different ways of moving a pede:

Grab it with tongs/forceps (this is safe so long as you don't squeeze too hard, but there is a chance it will wriggle loose enough to either drop, or run up the forceps towards your hands)

Usher it into a smaller container like a cricket tub (this is not easy with a large aggressive pede that doesn't want to be trapped, as you need to snap the lid shut and there will always be one corner that shuts last, and it's a race between your fingers and the centipede as to who reaches it first, and you don't want to trap legs or antennae)
Pick up the object (branch/moss) which it is walking on with your forceps and move that (this works very well with moss and smaller sized pedes, but you still need to account for it dropping off)
Trap it in a test tube or similar: get a glass or plastic tube with one end sealed and which is tight enough to prevent it turning on itself. Get the centipede to crawl into it. l it crawls in, and once its body is over half way in, pick it up and use your fingers to hold it in place (this one takes some nerve, and that's when you realise how strong these creatures are!)
If you have a sizeable and flighty centipede, then all of the above should ideally be conducted within a much larger plastic tub, just in case. Failing that, work in the middle of a large flat floor or table with catching boxes and towel (very useful) close at hand.

My first pede was a 8-9" dehaani with bright plastic-orange legs and an aubergine coloured body, and the most ridiculous speed and temper you could imagine. I was 17 at the time, and put it in a kritter keeper which was approx 12x9x9". That was a mistake, as it could reach the rim rather quickly, so I had no way of safely getting it out of there into another tub using any of the methods above:

I didn't have (and couldn't afford) forceps long enough to pick it up.
I didn't have a larger second container to work in, so areal transfers were a no-go.
I couldn't do much work with the lid open as it could reach the lid (and I had to slam it shut in a hurry more than once)
I didn't have the balls to try the test tube method.
I tried to trap it in a bottle and all sorts of other tricks but in the end I decided to build a noose out of a 1/2" wide rod, a curtain clip and a shoe lace, then do the transfer to a larger enclosure in the garden. Although nothing went wrong, it was a bad decision as the centipede turned and gripped the rod and I had to squeeze the noose way tighter than I would have ideally liked to stop it running up the rod, which could have ended in one of the 3 D's (damage, disappearance or damn painful experience).

It was simply a case of wrong sized enclosure: a smaller one could have been placed in the only larger container I had, a larger one would have allowed me to work with the lid open. If I had to find a solution to the problem again I would build a manual trap (one that I close) that sat in its cage.

All of this will sound over-dramatic to people who haven't worked with that kind of pede (it even sounds excessive to me now) but you've got to go with your own assessment of the risks based on your pede's behaviour, how bad it would be if it got loose etc...

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1


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## Scoly (Jul 14, 2018)

The test tube method in action:

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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 16, 2018)

Scoly said:


> You're getting plenty advice on lids & enclosures, which you should heed, but not much advice on manoeuvring a large dehaani (I use that word to avoid confusing with handling) so I'll see if I can help you out.
> 
> There's a few different ways of moving a pede:
> 
> ...


Will do, I’d probably go with the 2nd method, as I’ve seen it done before. Another trick that I’ve seen with that method is using a large tub as it gives the centipede more space, which in turn, gives me more time to close the lid. And btw, nice hardwickei


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## Scoly (Jul 16, 2018)

It was method 2 which gave me bother. It works fine for creatures with "body" like a tarantula or scorpion, where you can still contain it despite a leg poking out of a gap, but with a pede it's the head that will poke out of any gap, and then it's not contained, and dangerously close to fingers, so you need to close the tub completely. At least that was my dilemma, and why I couldn't move it. 

Since then I've found a good technique is to put moss in the tub. The pede crawls in and starts digging, and you have a far better chance of closing the lid on it that if the tub was empty. That's how I got this bad boy into such a small tub:

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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 17, 2018)

Scoly said:


> It was method 2 which gave me bother. It works fine for creatures with "body" like a tarantula or scorpion, where you can still contain it despite a leg poking out of a gap, but with a pede it's the head that will poke out of any gap, and then it's not contained, and dangerously close to fingers, so you need to close the tub completely. At least that was my dilemma, and why I couldn't move it.
> 
> Since then I've found a good technique is to put moss in the tub. The pede crawls in and starts digging, and you have a far better chance of closing the lid on it that if the tub was empty. That's how I got this bad boy into such a small tub:
> 
> View attachment 281113


Thanks for the tip, makes sense that the pede would just try to hide away under the moss when disturbed. That should be very helpful. I’d also probably use the forceps method, but I’d probably be really nervous that it manages to run up the tongs. Maybe give it something to eat to distract it, then pick it up? I’d bet that’d be easier as it would be too busy concentrating on its food to worry about me. Thx again!


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 28, 2018)

Ok guys so my Dad put the definite “no” on Scolopendra dehaani. However, he did say that I could probably get a giant pede that doesn’t have as bad of a bite that dehaani has. The same shop that had the dehaani told me that they could probably get me a S. gigantea “white legs” for $350. I’ve heard that their venom is NOWHERE near as bad as dehaani and even heros venom is worse than gigantea, so my dad said he’d consider it. So if you guys have any knowledge on their bite and behavior, feel free to reply here but I will be making another thread for my specific questions. Thanks to all that replied here and wish me luck!!!


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## StampFan (Jul 28, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Ok guys so my Dad put the definite “no” on Scolopendra dehaani. However, he did say that I could probably get a giant pede that doesn’t have as bad of a bite that dehaani has. The same shop that had the dehaani told me that they could probably get me a S. gigantea “white legs” for $350. I’ve heard that their venom is NOWHERE near as bad as dehaani and even heros venom is worse than gigantea, so my dad said he’d consider it. So if you guys have any knowledge on their bite and behavior, feel free to reply here but I will be making another thread for my specific questions. Thanks to all that replied here and wish me luck!!!


There has been one death to a child due to gigantea venom in the literature.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Jul 28, 2018)

StampFan said:


> There has been one death to a child due to gigantea venom in the literature.


By chance do you have a link to an article or a report for more detail? A child has also died due to a subspinipes bite, but she was bitten on the head and was only six years old. Swelling on the head is probably what caused the death and therefore was just a freak accident.


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## Bill S (Jul 28, 2018)

The only deaths I've heard of from centipede bite were the one mentioned above (possibly by a dehanni, back when dehanni was a subspecies of subspinipes) and another one not that long ago an adult male in Egypt, probably by S. morsitans.  I had a copy of the medical report on that one, but not sure where it is right now.  Kind of a freak situation in which his systems shut down.  There are plenty of cases of bites by both S. morsitans and S. dehanni (S. subspinipes dehanni) in which far less serious symptoms are the norm.  I also knew of a bite by S. heros that caused kidney failure in a Tucson, Arizona, woman.  The woman involved was the next door neighbor of a woman I was working with at the time, so I got the reports as they developed.  Unfortunately, I do not know what the final resolution of that case was.


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## StampFan (Jul 28, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> By chance do you have a link to an article or a report for more detail? A child has also died due to a subspinipes bite, but she was bitten on the head and was only six years old. Swelling on the head is probably what caused the death and therefore was just a freak accident.


I believe there is a reference right on the Wikipedia page.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Aug 24, 2018)

Alright everyone, my dad gave me permission to get Scolopendra heros (arizonensis or castiniceps), so even though I’ll definitely be paying more than I would’ve for a dehaani, Scolopendra heros is probably the more active and, imo, the prettier pede. Nonetheless, a dream has come true for me.  If anyone knows of anyone that has one that they are looking to sell, please lmk (I would like arizonensis or castiniceps). Thanks to everyone who replied to this thread, you guys really helped me out and I really appreciate it. Thx again!

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## Bill S (Aug 24, 2018)

Teds ts and Inverts said:


> Alright everyone, my dad gave me permission to get Scolopendra heros (arizonensis or castiniceps),...


I think you'll be happy with this.  I've got all three variants of the heros at the moment (arizonensis, heros, and castaneiceps).  I've mostly kept arizonensis, and one of the things I like about them is that they are very pretty and spend a lot of time where you can see them.  Be sure to give them a wide variety of foods - I've heard that one of the suspicions as to why so many long term captives gradually turn brown instead of the vibrant orange of a wild one is due to dietary deficiency.  I'm not sure how true this is, but I've broadened the range of foods I give mine "just in case".

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## Teds ts and Inverts (Aug 24, 2018)

Bill S said:


> I think you'll be happy with this.  I've got all three variants of the heros at the moment (arizonensis, heros, and castaneiceps).  I've mostly kept arizonensis, and one of the things I like about them is that they are very pretty and spend a lot of time where you can see them.  Be sure to give them a wide variety of foods - I've heard that one of the suspicions as to why so many long term captives gradually turn brown instead of the vibrant orange of a wild one is due to dietary deficiency.  I'm not sure how true this is, but I've broadened the range of foods I give mine "just in case".


I definitely think I will be a happy camper with a S. heros as well. And thanks for the advice on their diet. I had no clue that there was an issue with long term captives changing color. I will definitely take that into consideration when it comes time to feed.


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Aug 24, 2018)

Bill S said:


> I think you'll be happy with this.  I've got all three variants of the heros at the moment (arizonensis, heros, and castaneiceps).  I've mostly kept arizonensis, and one of the things I like about them is that they are very pretty and spend a lot of time where you can see them.  Be sure to give them a wide variety of foods - I've heard that one of the suspicions as to why so many long term captives gradually turn brown instead of the vibrant orange of a wild one is due to dietary deficiency.  I'm not sure how true this is, but I've broadened the range of foods I give mine "just in case".


And also where did you get your specimens from?


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## StampFan (Aug 25, 2018)

Bill S said:


> I think you'll be happy with this.  I've got all three variants of the heros at the moment (arizonensis, heros, and castaneiceps).  I've mostly kept arizonensis, and one of the things I like about them is that they are very pretty and spend a lot of time where you can see them.  Be sure to give them a wide variety of foods - I've heard that one of the suspicions as to why so many long term captives gradually turn brown instead of the vibrant orange of a wild one is due to dietary deficiency.  I'm not sure how true this is, but I've broadened the range of foods I give mine "just in case".


Interesting.  What variety of foods are you feeding?


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## Teds ts and Inverts (Aug 28, 2018)

Alrighty, here it is! Scolopendra heros castaneiceps pling (if that wasn’t obvious)


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## Bill S (Aug 28, 2018)

StampFan said:


> Interesting.  What variety of foods are you feeding?


Primary live food is crickets, but with babies I often give them pre-killed crickets - less chance of injuries to the centipede and it makes it easier for the baby centipede to capture its prey.  As a supplement I use Gerber's baby food, mostly chicken flavor but sometimes turkey flavor (poultry is more easily digestible).  Sometimes I mix a little flake fish food into the baby food.  Once in a while I offer fruit (apple).  Whatever food I offer I put it in with the centipede in the evening, and remove uneaten food the next morning.  Pre-killed crickets can be simply placed on the substrate. When I feed them baby food I put it in a small bottle cap.  For babies, the caps from water bottles is about the right size.  And of course, only place as much food in the cap as you think the animal can eat in one night.  

If you feed your animals live or pre-killed insects, use captive raised ones, not wild caught.  Wild caught insects may carry parasites and may have been exposed to poisons/insecticides.

Reactions: Like 2


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