# Effective Breeding of Brachypelma Smithi



## Travis K (Nov 21, 2007)

It's a little early but i want to be very prepared for an attempt to breed my B. Smithi.  

So any of you who have bred Brachypelma successfully please tell me how, and give me pointers.  Please give as many details as you can.

My mature female will be molting sometime between Jan and May of '08 and the same goes for the male.  The male will most likely be Sexually Mature upon his next molt.  I need to know things like timing of the molts to breeding and stuff like that, and the more info the better, cause some varriables may not be as important as others.  I really want to know which of the varriables are needing a great deal of attention and which ones are not so important.

Thanks in advance for sharing your knowlege and experiences,

P.S. I you post links to past threads thats great, but new accounts and attempts of Breeding B. Smithi are also good.  So if you like post links, but if you have relevant info please share.


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## sgt.batguano (Nov 21, 2007)

i know nothing...i hope this helps.


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## Snipes (Nov 22, 2007)

bumping this up so Ryan can see.


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## spiders4life (Nov 22, 2007)

Used this formula for succesfull smithi mating:

Misted females enclosure once a week, 1 month before introducing the male.
Fed her one big foodsubjekt per day, for a week before the mating.
The day before the mating, i "sharktanked" the male in females enclosure, in a box with small holes.

Mating went without any problems at all .


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## jbrd (Nov 22, 2007)

Well according to Rick West the breeding season is occurs during the rainy summer season that extends from June/July to October/November. So this would tend to make me believe this would be the best time to breed them.
I was wondering how you know your male will have his ultimate molt in the time you specified?


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 23, 2007)

Ok, where to begin............ This I guess will be my formal write up for breeding the species Brachypelma Smithi. Everything I write below is based off my experience. The methods used below are what I have found to work the best over the years, and I want to stress I am not saying other methods are wrong, this is just a write up of what I do. My success within this genus speaks for itself, so I don’t really want to be debating my methods. Just take it all at face value. 

First let me address the size cut off for this species when thinking about breeding them. I have had success with one 4.5" female, but I would always wait one more molt past that size. Even at 5" I have gotten 500+ slings from a female before. Smaller females can be bred, but production seems very hit and miss, mainly IMO because the females cycle is still fairly short, maybe to short for proper egg production.

The next thing to keep in mind is the time table we are dealing with when thinking about breeding this species. This is one of the most important issues to sort out. I like to get my females bred inside of 2 months after a molt. The deadline I have established for too late to breed is about the 5 month mark. There is no harm in trying if it is that long after a molt but for me I have noticed success rates take a nose dive after that time frame. The fresher the male the better as well, so as you can tell timing is everything. 

Next issue at hand is the pairing itself. This can be tricky sometimes. MM Smithi can be big wimps until they are successful for the first time. After that they are studs. But I have had a few males  that matured and died never having paired with a female because they would touch the female and run away. 

As for the actual pairing. Wait until the first sperm web is thought to have been seen. Then that night try and pair them. "shark tanking" IMO is not needed with this species. The second you get a loaded MM Smithi into a female’s tank he should get down to business drumming and twitching. If he freezes that is normal. He could sit there for a long while seemingly making up his mind on what he wants to do. Also when you put him in the tank introduce him to the far side of the tank opposite of her and her hide. Females can respond at first with a burst of aggression that seems like she wants to kill the MM. What I do is stand by with tweezers and when she lunges like that I will get between them but not to separate just to give them a second to realize the other one is there and is not food. It is very easy to see if there are inserts. The female will arch back sharply and sometimes the male will drag the female a little ways while is making the insert. Most pairings result in several inserts by both palps. Once you start to see the female's front four legs start to move I like to intervene and help the male escape. 

People also want to know how many times they should pair them together. Typically I shoot for three good pairings after sperm webs. If on the second you try to get nothing, that is a great indication that the female took to the first pairing and will not need additional pairings. But I still try for three pairings. 

Next is the after mating care. In the next few months after pairings I feed the females all they want to eat. I do this because after about 2 months I will start their cool downs. This can be a complicated process for those that live in warmer climates. I like to do this in a series of phases. 

Phase one, they get moved out of my tarantula room, this is for about a two week period. 

Phase two, they get moved out to my patio closet which can range from 60-64 but rarely above that. 

Phase three is hand in hand with phase 2. I will alternate from the patio closet to a mini fridge set on high. The highest setting will get the bottom shelf of the fridge at about 50-52 degrees. They spend a night in there, and then a day in the closet. If you forget a night that is not a big deal I forget all the time. But the main goal is to get some temp differences that indicate a day night temp change like it would occur in the wild during winter. This will go on for about 8-12  weeks. I normally do this for 10 weeks but sometimes I just go with it, the timeline is not set in stone it is more of a guideline, during this time no food is offered but water is always supplied. 

Phase four, after about 12 weeks after leaving my tarantula room they will then return to a corner in my house. Staying there for two weeks or so, and from there they move back to my T room which is about 78-80. During this time I watch the female’s behaviors. More often than not there comes a point where they will take food one or two more times, but if they don’t eat don’t be concerned. Also during this period look for a widening of the abdomen in the bottom 1/3. This is a great indication that eggs are being formed within the female. 

Phase five, now comes the flooding. Take a bottle of water and act like god and bring the spring rains. Soak liberally allowing the tank to dry between soakings. When the female starts to show signs such as digging or webbing I then stop the flooding process and concentrate on keeping the water dish full and that is it. Your target time frame to be expecting a sac from your girl is anywhere between the 7-13 month mark. 9 and a half months seems to be the norm for me. 

Phase six, I use coconut hides, I do this because it provides a nice dark circular shaped place ideal for egg sac construction. I have used upside down plastic flower pots buried with a doorway cut out and had success with those as well. But the goal of a hide is to provide a very dark secure place for the sac to be made. This can be a turn off for some people because they want to see everything happen, but which would you rather have, a stressed T looking for somewhere to make a sac in the open, or a calm one making her sac in secret? Make sure you take note of the day the sac was made, or the closest date thought to be made if she makes it without you seeing. This will be important to know in the coming weeks. 

Phase seven, this is where some people will vary so I will state now that this is what I chose to do because I have had great success doing this. I take the sac from the mother at day 16 for manual incubation from then on out. I do this for a few reasons.

   One being Smithi females are known to munch sacs for no real known reason at all. I have one female that had eaten two sacs before I took her third on day 16 and received 1000+ slings as a reward. 
   The second reason I take so early is sometimes 99.99% of the sac is good, but all it takes is a few bad eggs to spoil the whole sac causing the female to burry the sac or eat it. If you chose to leave the sac with the female for 30-40 days you run the risk of those bad eggs destroying your efforts. And to back that up further I have taken sacs before and had a dozen or so bad eggs, I removed them, and all the rest of  the eggs made it  the rest of the way. Please note, if you know you have a female that has in the past been a good mother you can leave the sac with the mother if you chose. I don’t leave sacs with the mother anymore but it is an option.
    Last reason I take so early is I believe here is a lot of cannibalism within the sac in the younger stages. I have witnessed eggs with legs eat their close by brothers and sisters. Most articles you read will tell you to expect mid 100’s from Smithi, 400-500 being a good average. But when I started taking my sacs earlier my sling count started nearing 1000 per sac every time with one sac yielding over 1000. This might be ok for some people that don’t want that many slings coming from one sac. But there is no harm in raising them all and passing them to friends, I am sure someone will take them!

At day 16 you will have eggs that have already absorbed the sperm and other fluid in the egg sac. I empty the eggs from the sac into coffee filters. And those filters are slid into deli containers that are then placed into a plastic shoe box lined with wet paper towels with a lid that has holes in it. That setup stays in my T room at temps around 78-80. I’ll place the setup on an upper shelf as well so it may be a bit warmer. Two times a day I hand rotate the eggs. In this setup rotating the eggs is much easier then the hammock method because all you do is pick up the container and give it a gentle swirling motion and all the eggs roll evenly. The other up side to this setup is the eggs are all flat and not resting on each other at any point. This prevents eggs from clumping together and allows for easier molting through the next stages. 

Eggs with legs are seen anywhere from day 21-35 depending on your temps. Once this happens I do not rotate them anymore, but I will gently shake the container every now and then to prevent eggs from latching on to their neighbors and eating them. A few days after they molt into 1st instar (30-40 days after molting into eggs with legs) I transfer the slings into deli containers lined with moist paper towels. Or if you don’t want to do that, just drip some water in the filter every few days. I do this because I have seen slings at that size drink water and this also seems to aid with molting into 2nd instar feeding slings which takes about another 30-40 days. Another reason I transfer them is it gives them a clean setup, they will start defecating at the 1st instar stage plus all the skins from the recent molts are everywhere.
 These time frames are flexible once again because it does depend on the temps you can keep them at. Use the dates as guidelines for what to expect and when, not a rigid time table.

Lastly it will be time to separate. You have some time between them molting into 2nd instar and separation. But  separating that many slings does take a while so if you want to do it in phases you can. I like to prep my containers a few weeks before hand so I am not scrambling to do so when they need to be separated. 

 Cannibalism is normally not observed for about 3-6 weeks after they are mobile slings. It is always safer to plan ahead and do the separation earlier rather then later. It would be sad to go through all this and have slings be killed like that. 3-6 days after the 2nd instar molt you should be ok to separate them. The homes they go into can be very simple. I house mine in little portion cups you can get from restaurant surplus stores for cheap. I do not make holes in the lids or containers, and the peat I keep them on is moist. Over all I have found them easier to maintain if the substrate is moist. Even though Brachys are known to like it dry slings are more fragile then you might think and I use the moist substrate as a preventative measure against hydration related deaths. When they hit the 1.5-2.5” mark I will then offer a cap of water and allow the peat to dry out more. 

I think I about covered it all. If there are any questions I am more then willing to field them.

Reactions: Like 4 | Informative 2


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## KyuZo (Nov 23, 2007)

WOW!!! that is a lot of info.  i wonder how long did it takes you to write all that.


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 23, 2007)

KyuZo said:


> WOW!!! that is a lot of info.  i wonder how long did it takes you to write all that.


It took me a while. But I am at work doing some overtime and I figured why not. I get asked all the time about my methods, so there they are. 

Lol you should not have quoted that whole paragraph. You just made this thread much longer by doing that.


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## David_F (Nov 23, 2007)

talkenlate04 said:


> Snip.....Good info.


Dude, thank you for posting that. :worship: 

Breeding reports are one thing but, for someone with your success rate, posting such detailed info on the entire process is exceptional.  You and all the other really successful breeders out there should collaborate and get a good instruction manual going for the hobby.


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## KyuZo (Nov 23, 2007)

talkenlate04 said:


> Lol you should not have quoted that whole paragraph. You just made this thread much longer by doing that.


you're right, i just edited it and now it is a lot shorter.  hehe


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 23, 2007)

David_F said:


> Dude, thank you for posting that. :worship:
> 
> Breeding reports are one thing but, for someone with your success rate, posting such detailed info on the entire process is exceptional.  You and all the other really successful breeders out there should collaborate and get a good instruction manual going for the hobby.


Thank you for the kind words. It is a little rough around the edges verbiage wise, I do not claim to be a great writer, but I hope I got the general concept across.


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 23, 2007)

In addition to the above post here are some pictures of the incubation method I use for all species. These were taken before I got my awesome camera so excuse the poorness.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 23, 2007)

Hope this helps you some there Travis. If you have anything else to aske just fire away the next time your on here.

Reactions: Like 1


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## hamfoto (Nov 23, 2007)

Ryan,

Very nice write up!

Chris


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## sgt.batguano (Nov 23, 2007)

thank you ryan ...respect


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## problemchildx (Nov 23, 2007)

I learned a lot from your post, Ryan!

Thanks


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 25, 2007)

problemchildx said:


> I learned a lot from your post, Ryan!
> 
> Thanks


No problem!


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## Tescos (Nov 25, 2007)

Nice bit of info talkenlate04
How many species of "red leg" _Brachypelma_ has this worked for and how many successful eggsacs is that now?
All the best
Chris


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 25, 2007)

For me this has worked with Emilia, Smithi, Auratum, and Boehmei. Total sacs...... around 20. I'd have to dig through my records to find out for sure. 

Vagans, Verdezi, Albopilosum, Annitha don't need any special cool down periods.  

I am currently in the later stages of this cycle with my Baumgarteni so fingers crossed. 

I have not had the pleasure of attempting Angustum, Klaasi, Ruhnaui, and a few others. But I would assume of those three Klaasi and Ruhnaui would need a cool down of sorts Angustum should do ok without.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


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## bigo (Nov 25, 2007)

Hey Ryan thanks for the info i am in the cooling stage with my breeding project and with your advies i would be able to hopefully get a sac

omar


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 25, 2007)

bigo said:


> Hey Ryan thanks for the info i am in the cooling stage with my breeding project and with your advies i would be able to hopefully get a sac
> 
> omar


Awesome! You cooling down a Smithi?  I have 3 going into cool down myself. They should be wrapped up with that around mid Feb, and I might be getting sacs around late March early April. One Boehmei as well.


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## CFNSmok.PL (Nov 25, 2007)

Ryan, Thank You again. What a great learning experience. We need more of these Baumgarteni babys. 

Smok.


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## metallica (Dec 4, 2007)

Talkenlate04 said:


> For me this has worked with Emilia, Smithi, Auratum, and Boehmei. Total sacs...... around 20. I'd have to dig through my records to find out for sure.


WOW nice one! how many spiderlings were there in the sacs? any pics to go with it? sure i did a search and could only find your Brachypelma smithi and Brachypelma albopilosum breedings. i looked back to untill this post >>><<< did i miss the posts on the other Brachy sacs?

B. annitha does not need a cooldown? how do you know, i can find very little breeding info on these!

many thanks in advance

Eddy


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## xhexdx (Dec 4, 2007)

Talkenlate04 said:


> If there are any questions I am more then willing to field them.


Ok...question for you, Ryan. :} 

How in the world do you manage to work and remember all this other stuff in the process?  I work 50 hours a week and barely have time to even pair them up!

I printed your 'care sheet' out though and I'm going to use it and see what I can get.  Thanks!

--Joe


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 4, 2007)

metallica said:


> WOW nice one! how many spiderlings were there in the sacs? any pics to go with it? sure i did a search and could only find your Brachypelma smithi and Brachypelma albopilosum breedings. i looked back to untill this post >>><<< did i miss the posts on the other Brachy sacs?
> 
> B. annitha does not need a cooldown? how do you know, i can find very little breeding info on these!
> 
> ...


There was 1237 in one and 901 in the other for the Smithi sacs this year. I had a third one but the female ate the sac. :wall: I have not posted much in the breeding report section. And most of my sacs I have produced were before I ever knew of the boards. But now that I know the boards are here I will post more when I do get sacs. I have three bred female Smithi now so Maybe Ill add their results if there are any to the breeding forum.



> How in the world do you manage to work and remember all this other stuff in the process?


Most of it was just note taking. I am really bad with keeping formal logs of what I am doing, but my notes along the way give me a pretty good timeline of what has happened. Plus some of it I just retain I guess.


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## Stylopidae (Dec 4, 2007)

metallica said:


> B. annitha does not need a cooldown? how do you know, i can find very little breeding info on these!


That comment struck me as a bit odd, as well. The lack of breeding information is what is keeping me from getting a few individuals of this species.

I'd think that anyone who had bred them would be jumping to post it in the breeding reports.


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 4, 2007)

I know people that have produced other brachy’s with no cool down and they are ones that I do cool down. Everyone has their methods, this is mine. Like I stated in my write up,



> Everything I write below is based off my experience. The methods used below are what I have found to work


You want to breed something and not cool it down, go for it. Like I also said take everything I am say at face value. It's just what I do.


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 4, 2007)

> any pics to go with it?


There are pics of them in this thread. And if you use the search function, you will find things like this,

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=89902

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=90868

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=91254

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=92063

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=97756



Complete with pics and everything, And since I know you will ask, in the first sac where the count from Novak was 1126 there were eggs still stuck to the inside of the sac that went uncounted from that sac only, some of those turned black and did not make it. The second sac  was emptied without issue.


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## NevularScorpion (Dec 5, 2007)

i just want to know if a t can only produce 1 sac each molt


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## julesaussies (Dec 5, 2007)

Genei Ryodan said:


> i just want to know if a t can only produce 1 sac each molt


Not a brachy i imagine. However, i have read of many accounts of P. murinus making multiple viable sacs in between molts.


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## metallica (Dec 5, 2007)

Talkenlate04 said:


> There are pics of them in this thread. And if you use the search function, you will find things like this,
> 
> http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=89902
> 
> ...



hi, that is all smithi. where is the B. emilia, B. auratum and B. boehmei?


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> hi, that is all smithi. where is the B. emilia, B. auratum and B. boehmei?


Oh those pics and those write ups. Those are in the same place as your Brachypelma baumgarteni write up. It's all in the breeding reports forum.   


Just because it's not on here or in some report, does not mean it did not happen. But I am done falling for the "prove yourself bait" I have nothing to prove to you.

Reactions: Like 1


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## vvx (Dec 5, 2007)

Talkenlate04 said:


>


Everytime I open this thread I can't help but to wonder in that pic what do the red circles signify versus the yellow ones?


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 5, 2007)

I was keeping track of the two sac clutches. There were three tubs and I had numbers on the undersides of the deli containers, but in pics I had to circle them.


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## metallica (Dec 5, 2007)

Talkenlate04 said:


> Just because it's not on here or in some report, does not mean it did not happen. But I am done falling for the "prove yourself bait" I have nothing to prove to you.


seeing that you post everytime a spider farts, yet nothing on these rare (even in Europe) breedings, i can't help but call you a liar. and you are correct, you have noting to prove to me anymore.

have a nice day

Eddy


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## Stylopidae (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> seeing that you post everytime a spider farts, yet nothing on these rare (even in Europe) breedings, i can't help but call you a liar. and you are correct, you have noting to prove to me anymore.
> 
> have a nice day
> 
> Eddy


So I go to check on Ryan's claim that he bred _Brachypelma annitha_ and this is what I find.

Two posts in this thread, another where he mentions it in passing and a third that says he traded one off two years ago.

No breeding report. No pictures.


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 5, 2007)

Cheshire said:


> So I go to check on Ryan's claim that he bred _Brachypelma annitha_ and this is what I find.
> 
> Two posts in this thread, another where he mentions it in passing and a third that says he traded one off two years ago.
> 
> No breeding report. No pictures.


No crap Sherlock, I was not on the board. Good investigative work though I am proud of you. 




> you have noting to prove to me anymore.


I never had anything to prove to you. Never will.


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## xhexdx (Dec 5, 2007)

Cheshire said:


> So I go to check on Ryan's claim that he bred _Brachypelma annitha_ and this is what I find.
> 
> Two posts in this thread, another where he mentions it in passing and a third that says he traded one off two years ago.
> 
> No breeding report. No pictures.


Out of curiosity, have you posted all of your breeding reports, complete with dates and pictures, on this board?

And even if he *is* lying, why do you or metallica care?

He seems to be pretty damn successful at what he does.  Let it go.  Bashing Ryan for no reason wasn't the point of this thread in the first place.

Reactions: Like 1


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## metallica (Dec 5, 2007)

xhexdx said:


> And even if he *is* lying, why do you or metallica care?


as a big Brachypelma fan myself i know it takes more then luck to breed the "redleg" species. so if someone breeds those species succesfull they have my deepest respect..... however if they claim they bred them succesfully but clearly didn't then hunting season is open! a big part of this hobby is based on trust. self proclaimed Brachy experts can do a lot of damage.



			
				Talkenlate04 said:
			
		

> Ask me anything about Brachys


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> as a big Brachypelma fan myself i know it takes more then luck to breed the "redleg" species. so if someone breeds those species succesfull they have my deepest respect..... however if they claim they bred them succesfully but clearly didn't then hunting season is open! a big part of this hobby is based on trust. self proclaimed Brachy experts can do a lot of damage.


Oh man you just made me realize..... Your right! I don't know anything. My sincerest apologies to you sir. I want to thank you for pointing that out to me. I shale now go read all your breeding reports to obtain some proper information about the brachypelma genus. Guess I'll catch you later, I have lots of reading to do!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tescos (Dec 5, 2007)

What I can't believe this! No Eddy it cant be true he just can't be a Liar and a scoundral! No this isn't happening my world has just  collapsed around me now that I have noone to ask about brachys!!!:8o


BTW 
Here are at least two PUBBLISHED articles you could look up for yourself Talkenlate04:-

VVN magazine jaargang 13 nr 42, 2004 Eddy Hijmensen: _'Brachypelma schroederi en Brachypelma verdezi'_.

VVN magazine jaargang 15 nr 49, 2006 (23-25), Eddy Hijmensen: 'geslaagde kweek met_ Brachypelma baumgarteni_'

Hope this helps?

Cheers
Chris


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## vvx (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> hi, that is all smithi. where is the B. emilia, B. auratum and B. boehmei?





metallica said:


> yet nothing on these rare (even in Europe) breedings,


Not getting into the argument, but something here made me curious. Prices from NWInverts:

smithi: $16 1/4"
emilia: $24 1/3" 
boehmei: $30 1/3"

And although NW doesn't have auratum, Swift's does for $32 1/4". 

My question then is if those 3 are so hard to breed why are they apparently so plentiful that the prices are not much more than smithis? I would guess wild caught specimens laying eggsacs in captivity if it weren't for the fact they're brachy...  Not saying you're wrong, just wondering why they're so common.


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## metallica (Dec 5, 2007)

european import. there are shitloads of spiderlings in a sac. breedings are still rare, spiderlings however not.


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## metallica (Dec 5, 2007)

from the CITES database:
2006 Brachypelma smithi US DE   2500   live
2006 Brachypelma emilia US DE   1500   live 

the list for 2007 is not online yet. i however doubt much changed since then.

happy to help
Eddy


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## xhexdx (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> as a big Brachypelma fan myself i know it takes more then luck to breed the "redleg" species. so if someone breeds those species succesfull they have my deepest respect..... however if they claim they bred them succesfully but clearly didn't then hunting season is open! a big part of this hobby is based on trust. self proclaimed Brachy experts can do a lot of damage.



Show me one person who has had 'damage' done to them by a self-proclaimed brachy expert.

Also show me proof that he 'clearly' didn't successfully breed certain species.

And explain to me how I or anyone else should trust you when you're the one bashing people for no good reason.

I could (quite easily) draw up a fake report using pictures I found online, as could anyone here, so yes, a *huge* part of the hobby is based on trust.  If you don't trust him, fine, don't trust him.  Stop trash-talking when there's no reason.  I see a lot more of his posts on here than I do yours, so he would *obviously* be more trustworthy to many people if for that reason alone.

At least he cares about seeing people succeed.  Seems you only care about seeing people fail.

Go ahead, reply to this, but my posts in regards to this are done.  This thread was put here asking for opinions and suggestions about breeding smithis, not asking for trash-talking.  Take it somewhere else.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Travis K (Dec 5, 2007)

*Talkenlate04*

Hey Ryan,

Thanks a bunch for the info, you are the only one one here that actually offered advice and information, which is what I was looking for.  Soory you ended up getting picked on for doing what the boards are intened for... Exchanging Information.

TO the MUD SLINGERS,
You guys should give me your takes on breeding THIS species, if you wnat to debate other breedings, start a seperate thread please.  If you have pertinant information on breed B. Smithi please by all means write it up and get it on the boards and in this thread.

Talkenlate04 (Ryan) has done nothing but help me and others with questions in a professional, friendly, and all beit-scientific manner.  So CHEERS to Ryan, hip hip horay!:worship:


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## metallica (Dec 5, 2007)

xhexdx said:


> I see a lot more of his posts on here than I do yours, so he would *obviously* be more trustworthy to many people if for that reason alone.
> 
> At least he cares about seeing people succeed.  Seems you only care about seeing people fail.
> 
> Go ahead, reply to this, but my posts in regards to this are done.  This thread was put here asking for opinions and suggestions about breeding smithis, not asking for trash-talking.  Take it somewhere else.


so more = better??

as for smithi breeding, also see:
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=19411&highlight=breeding+smithi
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=21454&highlight=breeding+smithi

allways happy to fail

Eddy


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## Travis K (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> so more = better??
> 
> as for smithi breeding, also see:
> http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=19411&highlight=breeding+smithi
> ...


NO, more does not equal better, but it does equal more experience.

Hey and thanks for the links to B. Smithi breeding


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## metallica (Dec 5, 2007)

Travis K said:


> NO, more does not equal better, but it does equal more experience.
> 
> Hey and thanks for the links to B. Smithi breeding


so if i post 1000x "nice pic mate" i will have more experience?

as for the posts, your welcome. i hate writing everything over and over. there should be a search button on these boards!

good night 
Eddy


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## Tescos (Dec 5, 2007)

@ Eddy.........& myself:-


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## Travis K (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> so if i post 1000x "nice pic mate" i will have more experience?


Well you would certainly have more experience at taking nice pictures!

Edit: OOPS, i get what you were realy saying, and now i think you are a little on the cynical side, but to each his own.

When i think of helpful experienced people on the board, i think of Talkenlate04.  But that is just my opinion.

Cheers,


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## xhexdx (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> so more = better??
> 
> as for smithi breeding, also see:
> http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=19411&highlight=breeding+smithi
> ...


I'm sorry, where is your proof?


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## Tescos (Dec 5, 2007)

xhexdx said:


> I'm sorry, where is your proof?


I think all over Europe but some are most likely dead due to bad keeping or something.


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## Travis K (Dec 5, 2007)

OK, WE HAVE HAD OUR FUN NOW LETS BRING IT BACK TO THE SUBJECT MATTER AT HAND. SHALL WE? 



Travis K said:


> It's a little early but i want to be very prepared for an attempt to breed my B. Smithi.
> 
> So any of you who have bred Brachypelma successfully please tell me how, and give me pointers.  Please give as many details as you can.
> 
> ...


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## Travis K (Dec 5, 2007)

*Here are the two T's I plan on mating*

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/gallery/showimage.php?i=6064&c=member&imageuser=10346

They are both due to molt some time between now and May of '08


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## problemchildx (Dec 5, 2007)

Being knowledgeable does not coincide with being helpful or friendly.


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## Travis K (Dec 5, 2007)

*Avitar*



problemchildx said:


> Being knowledgeable does not coincide with being helpful or friendly.



That true.

Hey problemchildx, i have seen your avitar many times but i just now noticed chuck's face. LOL


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## Stylopidae (Dec 5, 2007)

xhexdx said:


> Out of curiosity, have you posted all of your breeding reports, complete with dates and pictures, on this board?


To date, I have published all five of my long term projects.

Project one: _Grammostola rosea_...in the breeding reports

Project two: _Aphonopelma seemani_...also in that same section

Project three: _Scolopendra polymorpha_...again, in the breeding reports

These are my three lesser known projects. I've been keeping for two years, as well as going to school full time and working nearly full time. These are my 'school year' projects...so called because I work on them during the school year.

Answering your other post, the reason I do not post in the tarantula forums is because tarantulas have not been my main area of interest.

However, I do recieve a PM every week or two on average from people asking for my advice or opinions on feeders, pricing or people. All this, without ever declaring myself an 'expert' in anything.

Pretty impressive, eh?

I get asked for quite a bit of advice through PMs and in the chat. I always try to answer as honestly and completely as I can.

For the past three years, I have been researching and experimenting with the captive care of wasps. I created the first caresheet over one summer, which you can read here...in the articles section.

This past summer, I spent most of my time perfecting the caresheet and posted an updated version here. I reccomend this one (and if any prospective wasp keepers are reading this...use honey, not OJ)

These caresheets have been called 'groundbreaking' and 'revolutionary' by people other than myself. There are people who modeled their wasp colonies after mine and with those two documents, I single handedly generated quite a bit of interest in that hobby. Partially because those documents generated an interest among board members and partially because those who were already working on those projects learned there *was* an interest.

The reason why I do not work on very many projects is because my projects are generally 'bushwacking' type projects...areas which are not very well understood and thus need to be documented.

My next project that I am planning on persuing on a similar level is the captive breeding of _Scolopendrids_.

Like Metallica said...breeding of the genus _Brachypelma_ is not very easy and can't be done by accident for most species. Considering that I can't find a single record of a US produced eggsac, I find it highly doubtful that this species has been bred in the US.

I haven't checked the ATS forums or Venomlist yet, though. I only recently joined those and don't really post a whole lot so I could very well be wrong. Someone could post a link to a breeding report on either of those forums and very rudely shut me up.

I don't know...I've been looking for information and come up dry every time. Or I've stumbled across a paper written in German.

Breeding is quite common in Holland and Germany, I'm told.

Here's the beautiful thing about science, Xhexdx...it can both be used to call a bluff and clear someone's name because not only is it _testable_, it's _repeatable_ as well. Had my caresheets for wasps been contrived and fabricated, that would have quickly been figured out and nobody would be keeping them. Instead, Venomlist has an entire sub-forum for bees and wasps and it's dominated by wasp keepers who are following in the footsteps of those who contributed to the first few caresheets.

It's similar for _Brachypelma annithia_. If Ryan's telling the truth, all he has to do is check his records and his breeding can be confirmed if he posts his methods.

However, his decision to 'trade his female off' does puzzle me quite a bit. They're very, very rare. If you have a proven breeder female of a very rare species, why would you trade it off?

It's a precious commodity.

What would you trade it for?

If Ryan had anything to offer in his defense except cliche combacks, I might be a bit more inclined to take him seriously. If he started posting information about temperatures, misting, gestation period, mating comditions, etc...then I'd start to believe him. However, he has posted no defense for himself or even data to back his claim up.

As for why I care?

Self proclaimed experts can do a lot of damage in this hobby. I've seen people on these very forums give advice that would surely kill the spider they were asking about. Or at least shorten it's life span.

There are a lot of other little things that don't *quite* add up here...but I thought I'd point out one of the major ones.

Oh, yeah, and Ryan doesn't have to prove himself to _anyone_. It's his right.

However, it's also my right to express my disbelief and explain _why_ I don't believe him.

He's not required to prove anything to anyone, but I'm also not required to believe him without proof.

Reactions: Like 1


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## problemchildx (Dec 5, 2007)

I'm just waiting for Cheshire's balfouri sac to drop!  

And yeah for now I am the Arachnochuck. Bringing the badassery of chuck penguinism to the hobby.


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## Travis K (Dec 5, 2007)

*Hmm*

IN RESPONSE TO CHESHIRE-
Point taken... I guess?

we will see what he has to say about it, if anything at all.


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## Stylopidae (Dec 5, 2007)

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=40792&highlight=brachypelma+smithi

Here is a link to the breeding report forum (don't know if it's been posted).

There is an incredible amount of information in there.


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## metallica (Dec 5, 2007)

according to more= better... that was a big post Cheshire, so it must be good :clap:


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## Stylopidae (Dec 5, 2007)

metallica said:


> according to more= better... that was a big post Cheshire, so it must be good :clap:


Just didn't want people thinking I was mindlessly mudslinging.

Of course, that's half an hour I could have been working on my stat homework


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## Travis K (Dec 5, 2007)

*Lol*

You two!  Good Greif.

LOL,


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## Hedorah99 (Dec 5, 2007)

Tescos said:


> What I can't believe this! No Eddy it cant be true he just can't be a Liar and a scoundral! No this isn't happening my world has just  collapsed around me now that I have noone to ask about brachys!!!:8o
> 
> 
> BTW
> ...


Just to clarify, Metallica (Eddy) wrote those articles. If people want to say you cannot trust him, you should do a tad bit of research before you commit to that stance.


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## Stylopidae (Dec 6, 2007)

Hedorah99 said:


> Just to clarify, Metallica (Eddy) wrote those articles. If people want to say you cannot trust him, you should do a tad bit of research before you commit to that stance.


Yeah...I've been following Metallica's posts for awhile. I knew he knew his stuff, but didn't realize he'd been published.

Whether or not you like someone should have no bearing on whether or not to trust their information. There are a lot of people on here who don't like me and I'm trusted by a lot of people. Even by some who don't like me. 

I've never been fond of Tescos, but I've read his posts and know that almost everything he posts is accurate. I'd trust his information under almost any circumstance, even though he can come off as abrasive a lot of the time.

If someone's first line of defense is to automatically play the victim in response to *genuine* questions about the content of their posts, I really start to worry about their credibility. It's a very effective method of skirting around criticism...to claim a personal attack and then you don't even have to back up your content.

Almost like a reverse ad hominem.

I didn't realize that Metallica had been published, and the very fact that _he_ can't find information on _B. annithia_ kind of fascinates me now.

After re-reading Ryan's posts (admittedly after a rude PM), I realize that he never outright claimed to breed _B. annithia_. I only figured he did because he claims to give advice based upon _experience_ in so many of his posts and also because he included _B. annithia_ alongside two species he also claimed to breed in the past while including species he hasn't worked with in another paragraph. Whether or not this was a logical conclusion is up to the reader to decide, although I'm almost 100% certian that's what Ryan was trying to imply.

Of course, Ryan didn't even _try_ to correct me...so the motivations behind that are up to anyone to decide. I have my own theories to why, but I really feel it's inappropriate to share them in the public sector.

Of course, this brings up some very good questions about that very short sentance that started this whole debacle.

Information on breeding this species is very difficult to find...even for authors such as Metallica. Information in _english_ is even more difficult to find, I can vouch for that from experience.

If Ryan tries to give advice based upon experience, why was Ryan giving advice on _B. annithia_ when he admittedly has no experience with this species?

Why didn't he shut me up by posting a source (or at least sharing his reasoning)?

I mean...seriously. All he would have had to say is 'I talked to Eddy Hijmensen awhile back and that's what he told me' and I'd have been fine with that. I haven't searched for any information on this species in well over a year, so it's possible that something could have come down the pike. I also have access to sources now that I didn't have a year ago.

Instead, we have him giving advice on a species he admittedly has no experience with and with very little possibility of him having the information on that species that he claims to as far as I (or anyone else, for that matter) can tell.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tescos (Dec 6, 2007)

> I've never been fond of Tescos, but I've read his posts and know that almost everything he posts is accurate. I'd trust his information under almost any circumstance, even though he can come off as abrasive a lot of the time.


Hey I wont hold that againts you, after all even my dear old Mum petends that shes not most of the time.  

All the best
Chris


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## Travis K (Dec 6, 2007)

*Back To Breeding B. SMITHI*

So if any one else has breeding info pertaining to B. Smithi PLEASE FEEL FREE TO POST IT!


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## Hedorah99 (Dec 6, 2007)

Travis K said:


> So if any one else has breeding info pertaining to B. Smithi PLEASE FEEL FREE TO POST IT!


http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=40792
Mine are the last three posts. 
I cooled her at 70 degrees until about two weeks before the sac was laid. I misted the tank heavily twice a week for two weeks to simulate a rainy season and raised the temp to 75. I pulled for manual incubation at 30 days. i screwed up the manual incubation by not rotating enough and not keeping moist enough and as a result only 22 eggs out of about 300 were viable. Remember this was my first breeding attempt of any species. I now pretty much leave the sacs with mom till day 45 or 50 to ensure they are well developed before I pull the egg sac. 

Sorry to hi-jack the thread, but when someone claims to have 20 brachy sacs in less than one year, as indicated by Eddy's sleuthing, sparks will fly.


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 6, 2007)

> Sorry to hi-jack the thread, but when someone claims to have 20 brachy sacs in less than one year, as indicated by Eddy's sleuthing, sparks will fly.


Hey there clown, show me where I said in a year? 

OH, OH that's right, once again putting words in my mouth. I NEVER SAID THAT. Those sacs were spread out over all the time I have been in the hobby!

Same with the B. Annithia, I never said I bred them, go re read my post. And take note that the post is NOT edited, those are my original words un touched.

If you want to jump on the bash talkenlate04 bandwagon, at least get your facts straight.


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## Hedorah99 (Dec 6, 2007)

Talkenlate04 said:


> Hey there clown, show me where I said in a year?
> 
> OH, OH that's right, once again putting words in my mouth. I NEVER SAID THAT. Those sacs were spread out over all the time I have been in the hobby!
> 
> ...


 View Single Post
Old 02-20-2006, 08:09 PM 	  #1
Talkenlate04
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Beaverton Oregon
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My Mood:
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Species question
I have been a collector of only B Smithi. Now I bought a male and female starburst baboon. I dont know the scientific name for these guys. They mated readly and hung out for 12 hours or so before I decided to take them out. I just would like to know more about them. Anything helps really. ~Ryan


Feb 2006 you only keep B.smithi. Kinda hard to breed other brachys from that. We have had numerous debates about speciation in the evolution threads and we came to the conclusion you cannot create new species from two identical ones. I think Venom and Chesh can back me up on that one. let me reiterate that point...

 View Single Post
Old 02-20-2006, 08:09 PM 	  #1
Talkenlate04
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*Join Date: Feb 2006*
Location: Beaverton Oregon
Posts: 4,179
My Mood:
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*Species question
I have been a collector of only B Smithi.* Now I bought a male and female starburst baboon. I dont know the scientific name for these guys. They mated readly and hung out for 12 hours or so before I decided to take them out. I just would like to know more about them. Anything helps really. ~Ryan


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 6, 2007)

That post was referring to the fact that was mostly all I had worked with yes. 

I have plenty of employees from LLLreptile in Oceanside Ca, that knew me in the Marines from 2000-2004 that know I had far more then that. 

If you want to skew my wording to your advantage that's fine. It does not bother me. 

If you think me producing 2000+ Smithi in one year was a fluke just wait and watch for future postings.

And I can readily admit I did not and still don't know scientific names that well stll don't, I look them up all the time. That does not negate the fact that I can produce.


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## Hedorah99 (Dec 6, 2007)

I am just going to refer back to this. 



Hedorah99 said:


> View Single Post
> Old 02-20-2006, 08:09 PM 	  #1
> Talkenlate04
> Arachnoemperor
> ...


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 6, 2007)

Once again, I have nothing to prove to you. I'll keep producing, and now that I am on the boards I'll post when it happens just like I have been doing. And you can keep knocking me all you want.

You know how I got 2000 smithi? Because I might, just might have a clue what I am doing. 

Also note, nowhere have I ever said I know it all, I learn things on this board every day almost. And I learn through my own trial and error.


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## GoTerps (Dec 6, 2007)

So what happened with the spiderlings from the _B. boehmei_, _B. emelia_, and _B. auratum_ eggsacs?  Just curious.

Eric


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 6, 2007)

Honestly, I had next to no avenues to sell them when I was in the Marines, I had no clue there were online avenues to sell them. So some of them were let go(yes into the wild, stupid I know) in the Vista CA area foothills, some were traded back to LLLReptile, some were given away or sold cheap at shows or to friends.  And some of them I just let co habit till the sibling deaths whittled them down to much, much smaller numbers. I really had no idea what to do with them all.
Then when I got deployed for 28 months I sold all I had to some guy in Southern Cal that I met at the pet store, and gave some of them back to LLLReptile for some cash. But I kept two Smithi, because they were the first I ever had and I will not sell them. I convinced an S4 Lt to care for them in his office while I was gone. When I got back I started over. And here I am.


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## Hedorah99 (Dec 6, 2007)

Talkenlate04;1040711
If you want to jump on the bash talkenlate04 bandwagon said:


> Oh yea, and I take offense to this. I was pretty much on the band wagon form day one. I didn't like you then and I don't like you now.


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 6, 2007)

Hedorah99 said:


> Oh yea, and I take offense to this. I was pretty much on the band wagon form day one. I didn't like you then and I don't like you now.


It's mutual. That might be the one fact you do get right.


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## bigo (Dec 6, 2007)

will back to the topic at hand. Hey Ryan do you think that low 60's F at night and how 60's at day is to low or just right for the cooling of my B.smith any of your advise is appreciated.

omar


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 7, 2007)

Low 60's should work, your whole goal with the cool down is to simulate winter which can be hard to do in our houses. That is why I like to try and time my breedings with the natural cycle of the seasons here in Oregon. So my bred females now are in the patio closet and our temps are naturally doing the cooling for me. Plus the closet offers some protection from the actual outside temps.
It was harder to do cool downs when I was stationed at Camp Pendleton CA because it's warm mild and hot down there it does not really get cold. That is where I started using my patio closet and the miny fridge. It's a bit easier here to do cool downs because of the bigger changes in temps when winter arrives here.
But if I do an off season breeding I will still use my miny fridge. I was thinking of maybe using a wine fridge to get it a bit warmer at the lowest setting, maybe the mid 50's instead of the low 50's.

Same with flooding the tank in the spring, this is to simulate the coming of spring within the tank.

This year I am also keeping one of the bred females in the T room with no changes to her temps at all to see if she will produce.

Reactions: Like 1


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## bigo (Dec 7, 2007)

So i am on the right track, i am also glad that i live in chicago and and all i have to do is turn off the heat in my room since i do not have a tarantula room yet. but i do have a automatic heat set no lower then 60 since my city is going to heat the single digits


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 7, 2007)

bigo said:


> So i am on the right track, i am also glad that i live in chicago and and all i have to do is turn off the heat in my room since i do not have a tarantula room yet. but i do have a automatic heat set no lower then 60 since my city is going to heat the single digits


Yes it is nice to have the weather on your side. When did you breed her?


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## moose35 (Dec 7, 2007)

Talkenlate04 said:


> Honestly, I had next to no avenues to sell them when I was in the Marines, I had no clue there were online avenues to sell them. So some of them were let go(yes into the wild, stupid I know) in the Vista CA area foothills.



and people wonder why we can't get mantids or assassins or cool beetles or phasmids.


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 7, 2007)

moose35 said:


> and people wonder why we can't get mantids or assassins or cool beetles or phasmids.


Hey I admit I should not have let them go. My understanding of habitats and natural ranges was nil back then, at the time it seemed like a good idea because I was over run. I doubt any of them lived. Well I guess they could have if they got into a hole or shelter fast enough. I know better now so I'd sooner give them away then let them go like that. It's a mistake I will never repeat.

Some of the things I sold were for 50 cents, and then I thought I was making out like a bandit because other then that shop I was buying from and selling to I really did not think there were tons of people wanting to buy Ts.

Reactions: Like 1


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## butch4skin (Dec 7, 2007)

Talkenlate04 said:


> Some of the things I sold were for 50 cents, and then I thought I was making out like a bandit because other then that shop I was buying from and selling to I really did not think there were tons of people wanting to buy Ts.


Wow, you got screwed bro.


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## Talkenlate04 (Dec 7, 2007)

Hey I had no idea! :8o  At the time being under paid as is in the Marines so extra cash was cool to have. Even if it was only a few bucks here and there I still thought it was cool.

I think about all the slings I let eat each other back then and it bugs me. :wall:


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## xhexdx (Dec 7, 2007)

Cheshire said:


> A *whole* lot of stuff.


Let me first say I'm not mocking you, just cutting out everything but indicating this post is in response to yours (the long one).

Responding in a professional way, without trash-talking or bashing, is an entirely different story.  I appreciate and respect your reply, and I can understand your reasoning.

You, metallica, and Ryan have all been here longer than I have so I would be inclined to trust what any of you three would say, be it truth or not.

So, thank you for your post and your explanation.

And hopefully through some combined advice and opinions, I can successfully breed some smithi, emilia, and boehmei.  Is doubtful, but you never know.

And yes, I'm keeping logs. :} 

Thanks again.

--Joe


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## Travis K (Jan 8, 2008)

*Progress*



Travis K said:


> It's a little early but i want to be very prepared for an attempt to breed my B. Smithi.
> 
> So any of you who have bred Brachypelma successfully please tell me how, and give me pointers.  Please give as many details as you can.
> 
> ...


Well I have had both T's in a cool down now for 2 months in hopes that it will increase my chances off a successfully mating/sac/slings.  I will keep every one posted on changes.

the first month of cool down i just took away heat gradients so the T
s were at about 69*F evenly throughout their tanks.
I am now about a week and a half into keeping that at 60-63*F.  NOTE:  They have refused food during this cool down cycle.  I plan on bringing them back to 69-72*F in 3 to 4 weeks, and keep them there for 2-4 weeks more, then bring the temps up to the mid to high 70's after I do the Water/rain soak.

Any body else that has had success or failure breeding B. Smithi please write in and let us all know what the fruits of your labor were.  All accounts are greatly appreciated.

Thanks a bunch, and please lets keep to the topic at hand!


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## Travis K (May 5, 2008)

*Update*

OK, LOL, some day I am going to breed my B. Smithis.... SOME DAY.

My male has been in per-molt for the last two and a half weeks now and of coarse molted while I was sleeping. Grr:wall:   Any way He failed to go ultimate, which is good and bad.  Good cause he will only be larger and I will have him longer, bad cause I wanted to do a mating with him.  My female has yet to go into pre-molt but I expect her to do so in the next month or two.  Once she shows signs of pre-molt I am just gonna be searching high and low for the freshest MM B. Smithi I can find - Fingers Crossed

I took this pic this morning.  I LOVE B. SMITHI


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## Travis K (May 7, 2008)

*MM Wanted*

LOL, I am gonna be in need of an mature male B. Smithi soon.  I have one reserved from a member here on AB but that is pending its next molt and if it goes ultimate.

As for my current male I will get a pic with his new DSL measurements and I am excited to see how much bigger he is.  He has stretched out yesterday and looks a lot bigger, so I am happy for him but still bummed that he didn't go ultimate.

My big ol girl is getting a little cranky lately so I am crossing my fingers that she is gonna molt soon as well, but she has not gone into pre-molt.


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## Travis K (Oct 2, 2008)

*Update*

my female still has not gone into premolt yet.  So I am sceptical that I will even be able to pair her up with a male in 2008.  My male pictured below my go ultimate before or, fingers crossed, around the same time my female molts.


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## GailC (Oct 2, 2008)

If your male goes ultimate in the next few months, let me know. My big female recently molted and I wouldn't mind doing a breeding loan.


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## Travis K (Oct 2, 2008)

waldo said:


> If your male goes ultimate in the next few months, let me know. My big female recently molted and I wouldn't mind doing a breeding loan.


Will do, and since you are so close I would just drive him up to you.


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## Talkenlate04 (Oct 2, 2008)

I have 6 females, put me in line too!


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## Travis K (Oct 2, 2008)

Talkenlate04 said:


> I have 6 females, put me in line too!


Good greif, this guy might just get REALLY REALLY LUCKY


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## Travis K (Nov 12, 2008)

*update on My Breeding Project*

OK, I think both the Male and Female are starting to go into pre-molt?  No darkening yet, but they are not eating.


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## Bosing (Nov 13, 2008)

I wonder what happened to the trashers in the beginning of the thread now that the person who volunteered/shared the info is now one of the respected IDs in this board.

To Talkenlate04:  

Your 2007 post still helps provide useful info for newbies like me.  I was just wondering if any of your methods were changed/enhanced over the recent months.


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## xenesthis (Nov 13, 2008)

*Brachypelma spp. in Vista, CA foothills?*

>So some of them were let go(yes into the wild, stupid I know) in the Vista CA >area foothills.

What year was this? What size did you let go there? Have you or anybody else went there to see if they survived and are thriving there?

Todd


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## Talkenlate04 (Nov 13, 2008)

xenesthis said:


> >So some of them were let go(yes into the wild, stupid I know) in the Vista CA >area foothills.
> 
> What year was this? What size did you let go there? Have you or anybody else went there to see if they survived and are thriving there?
> 
> Todd


This was early 2001. Not the smartest idea in the world.......but I really did not know any better back then.  
As for if they are alive and established I have no idea. They were small slings let go in the middle of summer. It’s kind of embarrassing to talk about. I can’t believe I ever thought that was ok to do. :wall: I just knew I had a ton of babies and no where to unload them. (not that that makes it any less stupid)


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## Travis K (Nov 13, 2008)

Bosing said:


> I wonder what happened to the trashers in the beginning of the thread now that the person who volunteered/shared the info is now one of the respected IDs in this board.
> 
> To Talkenlate04:
> 
> Your 2007 post still helps provide useful info for newbies like me.  I was just wondering if any of your methods were changed/enhanced over the recent months.


Ryan was well respected when I started this thread, and will continue to be for many many years to come.

Now let us not focus on the temporary issues that derailed this thread at one point in time *and stick to the topic of Effectively Breeding Brachypelma Smithi.*

So if you have questions regarding Brachypelma breeding or have Insights/Techniques/Testimonials to that point... post them!


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## Jazz (Jun 29, 2013)

I took time to read this article. Special thanks to talkenlate04 for the nice informations based on experience. Salute to you bro.


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## SkittleBunny (Apr 26, 2018)

Talkenlate04 said:


> Ok, where to begin............ This I guess will be my formal write up for breeding the species Brachypelma Smithi. Everything I write below is based off my experience. The methods used below are what I have found to work the best over the years, and I want to stress I am not saying other methods are wrong, this is just a write up of what I do. My success within this genus speaks for itself, so I don’t really want to be debating my methods. Just take it all at face value.
> 
> First let me address the size cut off for this species when thinking about breeding them. I have had success with one 4.5" female, but I would always wait one more molt past that size. Even at 5" I have gotten 500+ slings from a female before. Smaller females can be bred, but production seems very hit and miss, mainly IMO because the females cycle is still fairly short, maybe to short for proper egg production.
> 
> ...


I think I'm going with this method, and bringing a great thread back to life. 

I'm hoping for success 

If anyone has used this method, do I need to cover the holes ( in the lid of the bin lined with paper towels ) with tights ?


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