# Cheap Enclosure <$8.16 (9"x4"x4")



## bryverine

So I talked earlier about making a cheap enclosure out of a hobby lobby model enclosure and it worked fantastic! I need to learn not to drop Acrylic solvent everywhere , but fantastic!
Case 7.99-3.19=4.80
Hasp - 0.92
Hinge - 0.92*2=1.84
Reusable item I chalk up to at least 10 more enclosures (super, ultra underestimate)
Glue - 6.00/10= 0.60

I spent about 3 hours tops making this guy
Total $8.15


Here's my new little beauty:

Reactions: Like 13 | Helpful 2 | Love 2 | Useful 1 | Creative 2


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## sdsnybny

Nice job, I found that the little soft squeeze bottles don't work worth crap. get yourself a med gauge hypodermic needle and you can control the glue much better.


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## bryverine

sdsnybny said:


> Nice job, I found that the little soft squeeze bottles don't work worth crap. get yourself a med gauge hypodermic needle and you can control the glue much better.


After sloshing it all over the place (the guy at the plastics shop have me a 3oz squeeze bottle ) I got a 2.5ml syringe and a much smaller gauge needle.
I'm a little disappointed about the spots, but for my first one, I'm calling it good enough!


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## sdsnybny

I did the same thing on my 2.5 gallon conversions, I hated to look at the drops. Second one I did i used the syringe much better results


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## obie

Did you get the hinges and clasp from hobby lobby also.


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## bryverine

obie said:


> Did you get the hinges and clasp from hobby lobby also.


Sadly no, I ordered them from McMaster-carr. They had them at a local plastic shop, but they have a $20 minimum policy so I didn't give them my business.


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## Steve123

@bryverine, I am very impressed. I've been using a lot of similar enclosures and paying ~$30 per cage, and that's buying 24 at a time. Even these came with a few spilled drops of solvent, the doors warped after a few months, and cracks formed on about 1/3, mostly at glue junctures (?stress cracks). Being able to change design a little depending on needs would be great. The case is from hobby lobby? Once again, thank you for the post.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## bryverine

Steve123 said:


> @bryverine, I am very impressed. I've been using a lot of similar enclosures and paying ~$30 per cage, and that's buying 24 at a time. Even these came with a few spilled drops of solvent, the doors warped after a few months, and cracks formed on about 1/3, mostly at glue junctures (?stress cracks). Being able to change design a little depending on needs would be great. The case is from hobby lobby? Once again, thank you for the post.


Sure thing, I'm actually going to make a 10x10x10 soon and have instructions in the making that I was going to post for anyone to use. There are about 5 different sized cases all for under $12 at hobby lobby (after 40% off) and depending on the hole pattern, you can have this too:


Here's my concept art for a couple of the sizes:

Reactions: Like 9


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## sdsnybny

Try Tap Plastics for supplies, if you don't have one near you then they have an online store.
They also have smaller hinges and hasps they will work fine for the size enclosures you have in mind and increase viewing space.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> After sloshing it all over the place (the guy at the plastics shop have me a 3oz squeeze bottle ) I got a 2.5ml syringe and a much smaller gauge needle.
> I'm a little disappointed about the spots, but for my first one, I'm calling it good enough!


I went into Hobby Lobby based on your last thread, where I though the lids were sort of press-fit, they aren't as you told me. SO, I've only drilled holes in acrylic.

1. How and what did you use to cut the lids in making the arboreal setup ? That's the only reason I'd get them.

2. What solvent did you use, because "glue" doesn't cut it , Did you use Weld-On or...., and what was the specific catalog number and vendor?

3. In the arboreal one you made, and in the CAD drawings, there is a angular notch on only 2 sides for the aboreal containers. What's that for?

The only thing I didn't like about the case is that it wasn't deep enough for my liking. If they were as deep as a medium sized KK, I'd be all in. I still might get one and make an arboreal setup for small Avics


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## viper69

Steve123 said:


> @bryverine, I am very impressed. I've been using a lot of similar enclosures and paying ~$30 per cage, and that's buying 24 at a time. Even these came with a few spilled drops of solvent, the doors warped after a few months, and cracks formed on about 1/3, mostly at glue junctures (?stress cracks). Being able to change design a little depending on needs would be great. The case is from hobby lobby? Once again, thank you for the post.


I've heard I BELIEVE from the TheSnark that ultimately two things will happen to acrylic  1. It will warp over time (though varies by thickness) 2. If you drop coco fiber in as substrate, perhaps even peat, ultimately the acrylic will discolor over time and that is irreversible.


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## Belegnole

*New* @bryverine Looks cool, but you mentioned "after 40% off". How are you getting the 40% off? Because I have a Hobby Lobby here in town and lots of time on the weekends.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## viper69

Belegnole said:


> *New* @bryverine Looks cool, but you mentioned "after 40% off". How are you getting the 40% off? Because I have a Hobby Lobby here in town and lots of time on the weekends.


If we tell you, you owe us a T.

The org's website has the coupon. Print as many as you want, details apply.

I expect an Avic of my choosing.

Reactions: Informative 1 | Funny 3


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## Belegnole

viper69 said:


> If we tell you, you owe us a T.
> 
> The org's website has the coupon. Print as many as you want, details apply.
> 
> I expect an Avic of my choosing.


Sorry Viper, I don't keep Avics at this time. If you send me a few of your extras, I'll be sure to send one back later.

Reactions: Funny 3


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## viper69

Belegnole said:


> Sorry Viper, I don't keep Avics at this time. If you send me a few of your extras, I'll be sure to send one back later.


There's no such thing as an "extra" Avic!

Reactions: Agree 3


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> I went into Hobby Lobby based on your last thread, where I though the lids were sort of press-fit, they aren't as you told me. SO, I've only drilled holes in acrylic.
> 
> 1. How and what did you use to cut the lids in making the arboreal setup ? That's the only reason I'd get them.
> 
> 2. What solvent did you use, because "glue" doesn't cut it , Did you use Weld-On or...., and what was the specific catalog number and vendor?
> 
> 3. In the arboreal one you made, and in the CAD drawings, there is a angular notch on only 2 sides for the aboreal containers. What's that for?
> 
> The only thing I didn't like about the case is that it wasn't deep enough for my liking. If they were as deep as a medium sized KK, I'd be all in. I still might get one and make an arboreal setup for small Avics


I'm sorry, all three of mine were a net fit. If I use my nails and extreme patience, I can take them off without upsetting inhabitants. Once they are cut, this is no longer the case and are easily opened and closed.
1. I used a small bench top band saw with a metal cutting blade (closer teeth) then lapped the edges to give then a smoother appearance. You could use a hand saw, a coping saw, out even a jig saw with the right blades.
2. Super glue works very well, but it looks awful! I used Weldon 'Scigrip 3'.
3. The door can't open otherwise. 


This is a picture from my instruction PDF I'm making. 


viper69 said:


> I've heard I BELIEVE from the TheSnark that ultimately two things will happen to acrylic  1. It will warp over time (though varies by thickness) 2. If you drop coco fiber in as substrate, perhaps even peat, ultimately the acrylic will discolor over time and that is irreversible.


Very interesting. I'll have to look into these. @The Snark do you know what about the polymers would cause these to happen?
I figured porosity in the surface layer could allow it to absorb coloration, but even then unless exposed to uv, i can't imagine this happens at a very quick rate.
The deformation is curious to me. There are inherent stresses in the material when made and depending on how it was made, these may be greater. Is this sort of like 'creep'? Rubber will degrade with the presence of O2 and UV, is this another explanation of what you are taking about?


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> I'm sorry, all three of mine were a net fit. If I use my nails and extreme patience, I can take them off without upsetting inhabitants. Once they are cut, this is no longer the case and are easily opened and closed.
> 1. I used a small bench top band saw with a metal cutting blade (closer teeth) then lapped the edges to give then a smoother appearance. You could use a hand saw, a coping saw, out even a jig saw with the right blades.
> 2. Super glue works very well, but it looks awful! I used Weldon 'Scigrip 3'.
> 3. The door can't open otherwise.
> View attachment 205202
> 
> This is a picture from my instruction PDF I'm making.


I wish I had a bench top band saw! I understand why you used blades made for metal. I have a coping saw, and a jig saw as well. I might get one of these.
2. Thanks!
3. Ohhh RIGHT, because the lids have a mini-vertical "wall" around their perimeter. I had forgotten the lids were not a single flat plane. What angle did you cut the notches out, 45?

I can't wait to see the PDF.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> I wish I had a bench top band saw! I understand why you used blades made for metal. I have a coping saw, and a jig saw as well. I might get one of these.
> 2. Thanks!
> 3. Ohhh RIGHT, because the lids have a mini-vertical "wall" around their perimeter. I had forgotten the lids were not a single flat plane. What angle did you cut the notches out, 45?
> 
> I can't wait to see the PDF.


Well those notches were actually made on a belt sander.... Not very accurate, but boy do they take off material fast!


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> Well those notches were actually made on a belt sander.... Not very accurate, but boy do they take off material fast!


I hadn't thought of that. I can't visualize how that notch making is done actually.


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## bryverine

Let me do a final spelling search so I don't sound like an idiot and I'll upload my rough draft.


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## 123rc123

bryverine said:


> So I talked earlier about making a cheap enclosure out of a hobby lobby model enclosure and it worked fantastic! I need to learn not to drop Acrylic solvent everywhere , but fantastic!
> Case 7.99-3.19=4.80
> Hasp - 0.92
> Hinge - 0.92*2=1.84
> Reusable item I chalk up to at least 10 more enclosures (super, ultra underestimate)
> Glue - 6.00/10= 0.60
> 
> I spent about 3 hours tops making this guy
> Total $8.15
> View attachment 205120
> 
> Here's my new little beauty:
> View attachment 205121


What did you use for the background? how did you construct it? Where did you get it?


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## 123rc123

bryverine said:


> Sure thing, I'm actually going to make a 10x10x10 soon and have instructions in the making that I was going to post for anyone to use. There are about 5 different sized cases all for under $12 at hobby lobby (after 40% off) and depending on the hole pattern, you can have this too:
> View attachment 205165
> 
> Here's my concept art for a couple of the sizes:
> View attachment 205168


what is the product called at hobby lobby?


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## bryverine

123rc123 said:


> what is the product called at hobby lobby?


I'll add these to the instructions I think:
1.) 13" x 5 1/2" x 5" Standard Display Case - 902452 - 11.99  
2.) 9" x 4 3/8" x 4 1/8" Standard Display Case - 637983 - 7.99  
3.) Basketball/Soccer Display Case (10x10x10) - 347344 - 19.99  
4) 15 1/2" x 7" x 6" Clear Display Case -243048- 14.99  
5) Mini Helmet Display Case (8x6x5) - 347443 - 9.99
6)6-Piece Display Case Pack  (3 1/2" x 1 3/4" x 1 5/8") - 782987 - 7.99

The background is what is zoo med cork tile: I found it at a pet shop for $15 12x12 piece. They have biger pieces (18x24) for $30 on amazon, but it was cheaper through a pet store...

Reactions: Informative 2


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> I went into Hobby Lobby based on your last thread, where I though the lids were sort of press-fit, they aren't as you told me. SO, I've only drilled holes in acrylic.
> 
> 1. How and what did you use to cut the lids in making the arboreal setup ? That's the only reason I'd get them.
> 
> 2. What solvent did you use, because "glue" doesn't cut it , Did you use Weld-On or...., and what was the specific catalog number and vendor?
> 
> 3. In the arboreal one you made, and in the CAD drawings, there is a angular notch on only 2 sides for the aboreal containers. What's that for?
> 
> The only thing I didn't like about the case is that it wasn't deep enough for my liking. If they were as deep as a medium sized KK, I'd be all in. I still might get one and make an arboreal setup for small Avics


Oh my goodness, DONT use a jig saw! I meant scroll saw!

Reactions: Informative 1


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> Oh my goodness, DONT use a jig saw! I meant scroll saw!


I thought that was odd, but I thought you knew something I didn't.

I can't wait to see the PDF file!

Reactions: Funny 1


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> I went into Hobby Lobby based on your last thread, where I though the lids were sort of press-fit, they aren't as you told me. SO, I've only drilled holes in acrylic.
> 
> 1. How and what did you use to cut the lids in making the arboreal setup ? That's the only reason I'd get them.
> 
> 2. What solvent did you use, because "glue" doesn't cut it , Did you use Weld-On or...., and what was the specific catalog number and vendor?
> 
> 3. In the arboreal one you made, and in the CAD drawings, there is a angular notch on only 2 sides for the aboreal containers. What's that for?
> 
> The only thing I didn't like about the case is that it wasn't deep enough for my liking. If they were as deep as a medium sized KK, I'd be all in. I still might get one and make an arboreal setup for small Avics


Just an FYI. This will be for my M. robustum until it gets big enough for its adult enclosure.


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## bryverine

Here's my first draft at the PDF.

Let meet know if I should change anything.

Reactions: Like 2 | Award 1


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## viper69

I skimmed through it, but will read in detail. I already have a few questions. Will reply when I read thoroughly. I LOVE the title hahahah, the figures look pretty nice too. What software did you use?


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> I skimmed through it, but will read in detail. I already have a few questions. Will reply when I read thoroughly. I LOVE the title hahahah, the figures look pretty nice too. What software did you use?


Good, I've been looking at it for so long that I can't see where to go. I also know what I mean because I've done it. A fresh set of eyes is what I need.
It's a software called CREO (Pro-E). I It's a finite element analysis software... It's kinda like using a nuke to hammer a nail, but I'm fairly good at it.

@The Snark would you mind giving my PDF a look now that I've updated it?


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## The Snark

bryverine said:


> @The Snark would you mind giving my PDF a look now that I've updated it?


Okay, lets take it page by page. 
First page, A guide to.... change 'from' to 'for'. Not too thrilled about making cases out of critters. 
3rd page, you have room. Give the names Hinges and Hasp. Sp Incrementally, (N)ote. Explain the water is to keep the work cool while drilling. Recommend a sharp file. Sandpaper can round off the edges too much too easily. A file can give the precise chamfer you want.
4th page, step 4B Sp interference.

LOOKS GOOD! It's an advanced procedure the more competent hobbyist can follow. If you were getting it out to beginners you should probably brow beat them about surface prep and how to 'glue'. You know, you don't apply glue, you fit the pieces then let it creep, applying itself.
Nice work!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## bryverine

The Snark said:


> Okay, lets take it page by page.
> First page, A guide to.... change 'from' to 'for'. Not too thrilled about making cases out of critters.
> 3rd page, you have room. Give the names Hinges and Hasp. Sp Incrementally, (N)ote. Explain the water is to keep the work cool while drilling. Recommend a sharp file. Sandpaper can round off the edges too much too easily. A file can give the precise chamfer you want.
> 4th page, step 4B Sp interference.
> 
> LOOKS GOOD! It's an advanced procedure the more competent hobbyist can follow. If you were getting it out to beginners you should probably brow beat them about surface prep and how to 'glue'. You know, you don't apply glue, you fit the pieces then let it creep, applying itself.
> Nice work!


Thanks for the help!
I hate to admit it, but I keep alive the stereotype that engineers can't spell...

"Give the names Hinges and Hasp." Do you mean assign them to 'hinge A/B' or explain what they are?

Maybe I'll have to just add a page or two and space things out so I can add a few figures and instructions that show how glue is applied to surfaces in contact.
I guess 'apply glue' makes it seem like you actively apply it to surfaces rather than letting it do the work.

My goal is for anyone who can use a saw and file to be able to make this. I'll get started on the next revision.


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## The Snark

bryverine said:


> I hate to admit it, but I keep alive the stereotype that engineers can't spell...


No such thing as a perfect rough draft. They fall under the realm of Murphy's law which supersedes Ohms, Newtons, Gravity and occasionally exceeds the speed of light. The probable cause of black holes.



bryverine said:


> Give the names Hinges and Hasp." Do you mean assign them to 'hinge A/B' or explain what they are?


Three objects that aren't immediately obvious to some people are pictured and you have room to give them labels. It is best to follow a fixed format, each image having it's own nomenclature with standardized text font and placement. Again with Murphy's law. Up in the readers face obvious. 



bryverine said:


> Maybe I'll have to just add a page or two and space things out so I can add a few figures and instructions that show how glue is applied to surfaces in contact.


Typical with bonding acrylics. People's brains revert to kindergarten and gobs of white glue you apply evenly to all surfaces. The concept of assembling parts *before* applying the bonding agent is alien, obscure and with beginners, incomprehensible. 



bryverine said:


> My goal is for anyone who can use a saw and file to be able to make this.


The sharp file is critical for really precise joints.They are relatively cheap, often coming in boxes of a dozen, and with a little practice you can control the cut angle down to a couple of degrees. With thin bonding agents that are unable to fill any gaps a precise finishing cutter becomes mandatory. 400 grit+ sandpaper held firmly to a perfectly flat surface and the work moved precisely over it or the work held firmly in a vice or similar and the file applied with the precision of a watch maker.

It really helps to see a video of a pro working with acrylics. All the tedious preparation then the actual assembly that can take only minute or two.


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> Thanks for the help!
> I hate to admit it, but I keep alive the stereotype that engineers can't spell...
> 
> "Give the names Hinges and Hasp." Do you mean assign them to 'hinge A/B' or explain what they are?
> 
> Maybe I'll have to just add a page or two and space things out so I can add a few figures and instructions that show how glue is applied to surfaces in contact.
> I guess 'apply glue' makes it seem like you actively apply it to surfaces rather than letting it do the work.
> 
> My goal is for anyone who can use a saw and file to be able to make this. I'll get started on the next revision.


Correct about the glue, I would have done the wrong thing mentioned above just by reading. 

Just use a spell checker


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## The Snark

There's a video somewhere, can't find it now, of tricks the pros use with acrylic glue. One is little 'landing pads', small pieces left uncut creating shelfs the glue can be applied to and wick into the joints. The pads get filed off later. Another is a slight chamfer, sometimes only at a few small locations, which accommodate the needle tip so the liquid gets applied within the joint and wicks from there.
Oh yes, another trick. Instead of the needle tip touching the joint it is held a little distance above and dripped precisely. A way to meter the exact amount of glue being used over a given amount of surface area.

Obviously, experience and knowing the materials is the big trick. How far can the glue wick, how big a puddle you can get away with and so on.

Right. Use a spell checker. Mine is presently flagging chamfer and suggesting chamber. Should make whoever wrote that dictionary fire a high velocity rifle with a chamfered chamber.


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> Correct about the glue, I would have done the wrong thng...Just use a spell checker


I've added an Acrylic solvent 101 section.

Sadly, Pro-E doesn't have spell checker...

Now that I think about it, neither Solidworks nor AutoCAD have spell check... Who missed that in the software development?

Reactions: Funny 1


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## viper69

No spellchecker? Who was asleep at the wheel on those projects haha.

I think this is a GREAT first draft actually. I LOVE the tech drawings, esp the color and hatch marks for the glue steps. I particularly liked the blown up view of the hinge w/the glue note, and the side view of the hinges Lid C blown up. I'm really impressed, it's quite professional looking.

I'm reading it now. I'm listing the questions/comments in order of each page, ie as I read/see them. I realize I could look up certain words, but chose not to as a way demonstrating the level of knowledge some people may have or not have.

1. Should the 20G needle be blunt tip, as is used for liquid dispensing? Or should it be a hyodermic as used in blood drawing?
2. What size syringe do you suggest?
3. Under HINT, what is TPI ?
4. Drill bit-- you meant a drill bit designed for drilling plastic. I know you don't mean one made of plastic (someone won't know the difference w/the incorrect grammar there)
5. What is "blade kerf" ?
6. What is " ote the names..." See Step 3
7.What is a "chamfer" and what is the "flange". I think for flange you mean the piece of the mold that extends around the perimeter of the lid right?

I think Step 3 needs more explaining. I'm handy to a degree, but I'm honestly not sure how to do that. I can cut straight lines for Lid A and Lid B hah, but the other, not sure. I understand why it's done as you explained earlier in thread.

8. For Step 4b, I think you should note if the user should check the fitting of lid C after Lid A is glued, OR does one check after BOTH Lid A and Lid B are glued? I would think one would do both actually. You have to remember some people won't even know how to drill hah.
9. The measurement of 0.19, what are the units? Regardless, they should be metric in my opinion, much easier to measure with.
10. Does the 0.19 distance represent the distance between the bottom of the  red hasp in Step 6a and the bottom edge? I assume so. Remember, not everyone can read technical drawings, including myself at times.
11. How long to let the glue set?

Reactions: Like 1 | Useful 1


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> No spellchecker? Who was asleep at the wheel on those projects haha.
> 
> I think this is a GREAT first draft actually. I LOVE the tech drawings, esp the color and hatch marks for the glue steps. I particularly liked the blown up view of the hinge w/the glue note, and the side view of the hinges Lid C blown up. I'm really impressed, it's quite professional looking.
> 
> I'm reading it now. I'm listing the questions/comments in order of each page, ie as I read/see them. I realize I could look up certain words, but chose not to as a way demonstrating the level of knowledge some people may have or not have.
> 
> 1. Should the 20G needle be blunt tip, as is used for liquid dispensing? Or should it be a hyodermic as used in blood drawing?
> 2. What size syringe do you suggest?
> 3. Under HINT, what is TPI ?
> 4. Drill bit-- you meant a drill bit designed for drilling plastic. I know you don't mean one made of plastic (someone won't know the difference w/the incorrect grammar there)
> 5. What is "blade kerf" ?
> 6. What is " ote the names..." See Step 3
> 7.What is a "chamfer" and what is the "flange". I think for flange you mean the piece of the mold that extends around the perimeter of the lid right?
> 
> I think Step 3 needs more explaining. I'm handy to a degree, but I'm honestly not sure how to do that. I can cut straight lines for Lid A and Lid B hah, but the other, not sure. I understand why it's done as you explained earlier in thread.
> 
> 8. For Step 4b, I think you should note if the user should check the fitting of lid C after Lid A is glued, OR does one check after BOTH Lid A and Lid B are glued? I would think one would do both actually. You have to remember some people won't even know how to drill hah.
> 9. The measurement of 0.19, what are the units? Regardless, they should be metric in my opinion, much easier to measure with.
> 10. Does the 0.19 distance represent the distance between the bottom of the  red hasp in Step 6a and the bottom edge? I assume so. Remember, not everyone can read technical drawings, including myself at times.
> 11. How long to let the glue set?


This is perfect! I'll update all of these so I don't have to add a glossary of terms.
I'll be sure to address all these questions in the next draft!

Reactions: Like 1


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> This is perfect! I'll update all of these so I don't have to add a glossary of terms.
> I'll be sure to address all these questions in the next draft!


Looking forward to it, much appreciated!


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## The Snark

viper69 said:


> Looking forward to it, much appreciated!


Likewise. Getting very interesting.


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## The Snark

viper69 said:


> 1. Should the 20G needle be blunt tip, as is used for liquid dispensing? Or should it be a hyodermic as used in blood drawing?
> 2. What size syringe do you suggest?
> 3. Under HINT, what is TPI ?
> 4. Drill bit-- you meant a drill bit designed for drilling plastic. I know you don't mean one made of plastic (someone won't know the difference w/the incorrect grammar there)
> 5. What is "blade kerf" ?
> 6. What is " ote the names..." See Step 3
> 7.What is a "chamfer" and what is the "flange". I think for flange you mean the piece of the mold that extends around the perimeter of the lid right?
> 
> I think Step 3 needs more explaining. I'm handy to a degree, but I'm honestly not sure how to do that. I can cut straight lines for Lid A and Lid B hah, but the other, not sure. I understand why it's done as you explained earlier in thread.
> 
> 8. For Step 4b, I think you should note if the user should check the fitting of lid C after Lid A is glued, OR does one check after BOTH Lid A and Lid B are glued? I would think one would do both actually. You have to remember some people won't even know how to drill hah.
> 9. The measurement of 0.19, what are the units? Regardless, they should be metric in my opinion, much easier to measure with.
> 10. Does the 0.19 distance represent the distance between the bottom of the red hasp in Step 6a and the bottom edge? I assume so. Remember, not everyone can read technical drawings, including myself at times.
> 11. How long to let the glue set?


The glue use is problematic. For this project recommendations can and should be made. However, manufacturers both of the acrylic materials and the adhesives, have their own recommendations which should be mentioned. IE things like high pressure injection and micro needles and so on. Sharps, medical injection needles, should be avoided as they are cut off at a severe angle and will not place the glue at the very tip.

Chamfer, kerf and so on should be given a small nomenclature section with good lucid explanations.

Any drill bit will work. However common drill bits like those used for wood may bind in the work. The moment it binds it becomes a wedge just like an axe splitting firewood. With extensive construction like drilling numerous holes people should explore drill bits made specifically for acrylics or alternatives like brad point side cutting bits.

Definitely standardize measurements. Metric is more universal.


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## bryverine

The Snark said:


> The glue use is problematic. For this project recommendations can and should be made. However, manufacturers both of the acrylic materials and the adhesives, have their own recommendations which should be mentioned. IE things like high pressure injection and micro needles and so on. Sharps, medical injection needles, should be avoided as they are cut off at a severe angle and will not place the glue at the very tip.
> 
> Chamfer, kerf and so on should be given a small nomenclature section with good lucid explanations.
> 
> Any drill bit will work. However common drill bits like those used for wood may bind in the work. The moment it binds it becomes a wedge just like an axe splitting firewood. With extensive construction like drilling numerous holes people should explore drill bits made specifically for acrylics or alternatives like brad point side cutting bits.
> 
> Definitely standardize measurements. Metric is more universal.


How's this: "Disclaimer: Though I make suggestions on supplies for this project, I'm not responsible for the items you choose and their compatibility. For item specific recommendations, see manufacturer's instructions." 
Then I can throw in another one that says:  "By downloading this instruction manual you have agreed to send me one to three spiderlings of any bred tarantulas that ever inhabited this enclosure, were intended to inhabit this enclosure, or were in any enclosure within a 20 meter radius of this enclosure at any point during their life. This is a legally binding contract." 

You know for units, I was thinking hobby lobby part numbers being based in the US, but now that you go mention it, acrylic display cases can be found anywhere. I guess I'll go ahead and metric it up.


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## Avinlea

I saw your initial hobby lobby case with coupon post. I was excited to see that there was a version that had a latch and hinge option. 
Thank you so very much for taking the time to document this and for everyone who provided editing!


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> How's this: "Disclaimer: Though I make suggestions on supplies for this project, I'm not responsible for the items you choose and their compatibility. For item specific recommendations, see manufacturer's instructions."
> Then I can throw in another one that says:  "By downloading this instruction manual you have agreed to send me one to three spiderlings of any bred tarantulas that ever inhabited this enclosure, were intended to inhabit this enclosure, or were in any enclosure within a 20 meter radius of this enclosure at any point during their life. This is a legally binding contract."
> 
> You know for units, I was thinking hobby lobby part numbers being based in the US, but now that you go mention it, acrylic display cases can be found anywhere. I guess I'll go ahead and metric it up.



You don't really need a disclaimer, it's not a legal doc. If they deviate from your instructions and it doesn't work, that's their own fault HAH.


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> You don't really need a disclaimer, it's not a legal doc. If they deviate from your instructions and it doesn't work, that's their own fault HAH.


Well sure, but how else would I get free tarantulas out of it? 
Almost done with version 1.1; I will upload soon for review.


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> Well sure, but how else would I get free tarantulas out of it?
> Almost done with version 1.1; I will upload soon for review.



So true!!  Great, can't wait.


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## JAG2469

nice job looks good


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## EDED

the snark, 

I thought there are different types of Acrylic materials out there, more expensive stuff wont turn yellow nor warp.  

there are different types and descriptions at Tap Plastics website

Reactions: Informative 1


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## bryverine

EDED said:


> the snark,
> 
> I thought there are different types of Acrylic materials out there, more expensive stuff wont turn yellow nor warp.
> 
> there are different types and descriptions at Tap Plastics website


I think all material has the ability to warp depending on the stresses created during manufacturing as well as hot/cold cycles of daily temperature fluctuations, use, etc. Even steel will warp depending on how it was made and machined.

I still think the yellowing is due to ozone and UV rather than the substrate.

Acrylic glass or PMMA seems pretty specific as far as chemical components go. I wonder if differences are based on formation process and material quality. Unless of course there are other things added so it's not pure acrylic?

Of course, I'm guessing at all this and could be shamefully wrong... @The Snark  is there any truth to my conjectures?


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## The Snark

bryverine said:


> @The Snark is there any truth to my conjectures?


I'm pretty much lost in the woods myself. There are a number of trade secrets formulations, and a lot of manufacturing processes, again some of which are proprietary. Comparing to steel is a very good example.

To oversimplify, there is basic acrylic, mix, cook, form, cool. But take steel. Which alloy? Which process? Take ordinary carbon steel, AISI1020. Your car is made mostly from it. Now process it with the newest method, Flash Bainite, the steel is as strong as titanium and you can get away with 1/2 thickness for the same job.
The same applies to acrylics. Then they can change the properties further by varying temperatures during the cooking, welding, annealing, cooling, reheating, tempering, laminating, pre-stressing, and combinations of those.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## EDED

dont want to derail your thread at all bryverine (since you are getting materials from another place, not tapplastic or similar) again appreciate this thread, very cool!
you should see my work lol not neat like yours at all hahah

however here is the link
ive bought some pre cut, for example 12x 6 '' 1/8 thickness is $10 bucks, at qty 6  !!

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/acrylic_sheets_clear/508
i dont work for them lol 
im sure there are other plastic providers that sell similar or different types online
you could call and ask for guarantee?

Reactions: Helpful 1


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## bryverine

EDED said:


> dont want to derail your thread at all bryverine (since you are getting materials from another place, not tapplastic or similar) again appreciate this thread, very cool!
> you should see my work lol not neat like yours at all hahah
> 
> however here is the link
> ive bought some pre cut, for example 12x 6 '' 1/8 thickness is $10 bucks, at qty 6  !!
> 
> http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/acrylic_sheets_clear/508
> i dont work for them lol
> im sure there are other plastic providers that sell similar or different types online
> you could call and ask for guarantee?


Hey thanks for the input! I actually plan on making all my adult enclosure that way!
My only issue is the tool requirements:
Display case tool requirements:
1. Coping saw (~$7)
2. File ($7)
Tool requirements for Taps:
1. Coping saw (~$7)
2. File ($7)
3. Router + table ($100)
4. Shipping (I don't have a local one)

Pros:
1.You can order 5 pieces (6.5x12.5) for about $10 like you said.
2. You just take that fifth piece and cut it in half and you have all the sides you need!
3. It's exactly the size you want with no compromise on size.

Cons:
1. none of the edges can be glued to straight from them. You either need to have a very flat surface and ALOT of experience lapping edges while maintaining 90° angles or a router and a router table which I don't have.
2. There is alot more cutting where a bandsaw would be far more useful but that's another $150.

Some day when I have a full workshop of tools, this place will be perfect.

I like the idea of designing my own enclosure down to each dimension, but the display cases are ready to glue right out of the box. I wanted something anyone could make without needing power tools or extreme skill and an exorbitant amount of time.

Thanks again, I can't wait to start another instruction manual using Taps precut acrylic for the more advanced tool user!


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> Hey thanks for the input! I actually plan on making all my adult enclosure that way!
> My only issue is the tool requirements:
> Display case tool requirements:
> 1. Coping saw (~$7)
> 2. File ($7)
> Tool requirements for Taps:
> 1. Coping saw (~$7)
> 2. File ($7)
> 3. Router + table ($100)
> 4. Shipping (I don't have a local one)
> 
> Pros:
> 1.You can order 5 pieces (6.5x12.5) for about $10 like you said.
> 2. You just take that fifth piece and cut it in half and you have all the sides you need!
> 3. It's exactly the size you want with no compromise on size.
> 
> Cons:
> 1. none of the edges can be glued to straight from them. You either need to have a very flat surface and ALOT of experience lapping edges while maintaining 90° angles or a router and a router table which I don't have.
> 2. There is alot more cutting where a bandsaw would be far more useful but that's another $150.
> 
> Some day when I have a full workshop of tools, this place will be perfect.
> 
> I like the idea of designing my own enclosure down to each dimension, but the display cases are ready to glue right out of the box. I wanted something anyone could make without needing power tools or extreme skill and an exorbitant amount of time.
> 
> Thanks again, I can't wait to start another instruction manual using Taps precut acrylic for the more advanced tool user!


Have you finished the PDF file for version 1.1 yet?? Stop yapping about Taps, when you have a project to complete N O W


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## bryverine

@viper69
Ok, OK. I was going to review it twelve more times, but here it is.
If I forgot to update something you (or anyone else) recommended, let me know.

Edit: I forgot my 'you owe me a tarantula clause' but it still applies! If you even read about using my enclosure instructions, you owe me a tarantula! (Don't tell my wife)

Edit#2: 1.1b has been attached!

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 1 | Award 1


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## viper69

I looked at v1.1 just graphically. I like how you did the red glue lines (in profile view) in 1.0 better than 1.1. In 1.0, in profile, the glue lines are thicker, ie wider, that's much easier to see. Now they are hard to see. The same can be said for the thick blue outline in 1.0, that was much better IMO.

Also, and this only visual opinion, the title page, you changed the background behind the acrylic container from transparent to grey. You added some "fill" behind them. While not "wrong", it makes it harder to see the outline. Remember black against white or vice versa offers the best contrast esp for a picture. So not it's slightly harder to look at visually, just being PICKY hah.

The same goes for the hinge colors. You had a great black, but have changed it to a bluish-steel gray of sorts. It's not bad mind you, just easier to see in 1.0

I'll read it later tonight, it looks better. Like the change of saw graphic from metal to a coping saw, good blunt tip notation for the graphic too.

I also liked in the old version how you made the names of the lids in RED font for Step 3, I think that's better than black, esp because they involve glue.

I think your glue section you made is pretty good!!!

Reactions: Useful 1


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> I looked at v1.1 just graphically. I like how you did the red glue lines (in profile view) in 1.0 better than 1.1. In 1.0, in profile, the glue lines are thicker, ie wider, that's much easier to see. Now they are hard to see. The same can be said for the thick blue outline in 1.0, that was much better IMO.
> 
> Also, and this only visual opinion, the title page, you changed the background behind the acrylic container from transparent to grey. You added some "fill" behind them. While not "wrong", it makes it harder to see the outline. Remember black against white or vice versa offers the best contrast esp for a picture. So not it's slightly harder to look at visually, just being PICKY hah.
> 
> The same goes for the hinge colors. You had a great black, but have changed it to a bluish-steel gray of sorts. It's not bad mind you, just easier to see in 1.0
> 
> I'll read it later tonight, it looks better. Like the change of saw graphic from metal to a coping saw, good blunt tip notation for the graphic too.
> 
> I also liked in the old version how you made the names of the lids in RED font for Step 3, I think that's better than black, esp because they involve glue.
> 
> I think your glue section you made is pretty good!!!


I didn't change anything about the hinges that I know of but can definately see the difference. The first image shouldn't have a background at all but should be higher quality, I think I lost something in transition to PDF from my program.
... Curious... I'll see what I can do about the blue colors, not sure what that's about.

Edit: I accidentally changed the material appearance from frosted plastic to translucent plastic. I corrected it and will put out 1.1b here soon.

Edit 2: it's been updated.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> I didn't change anything about the hinges that I know of but can definately see the difference. The first image shouldn't have a background at all but should be higher quality, I think I lost something in transition to PDF from my program.
> ... Curious... I'll see what I can do about the blue colors, not sure what that's about.
> 
> Edit: I accidentally changed the material appearance from frosted plastic to translucent plastic. I corrected it and will put out 1.1b here soon.
> 
> Edit 2: it's been updated.



I knew something was different. I just DL'd it, I'll take a look later for sure, and comment back here of course. I think your instructions were pretty good to begin with, we are just fine tuning it now.


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## The Snark

It's looking very sharp! What would be handy right now is someone to undertake building one following the PDF verbatim.


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## TarantulasWorld

That looks very well made. Any ways you can post links of where you might be able to buy the case online? I do not have a hobby lobby in my area.


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## bryverine

TarantulasWorld said:


> That looks very well made. Any ways you can post links of where you might be able to buy the case online? I do not have a hobby lobby in my area.


I found several on amazon and google by searching for "pioneer plastics".

Make sure you don't get the ones with a mirror or solid black/wood top... unless of course, that's what you want... I like seeing my tarantulas when they feel up to blessing me with their presence.


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## TarantulasWorld

bryverine said:


> I found several on amazon and google by searching for "pioneer plastics".
> 
> Make sure you don't get the ones with a mirror or solid black/wood top... unless of course, that's what you want... I like seeing my tarantulas when they feel up to blessing me with their presence.


 thanks, I see them on amazon for a couple bucks now. I appreciate it


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## bryverine

OK, I learned a few things this go around.
1. Smaller needle is much better!
2. Plastic drill bit (one made for plastic) is way better than a modified drill bit.
3. Even small needles squirt all of a sudden and can actually fling solvent if the tip is bent during application.
4. Painters tape as a shield as close to seam as possible saved me several times.
5. If you used too much solvent, DON'T TIP the enclosure until it evaporates completely.

This time around went much faster, but I had many 'accidents' though they were different this time.

This is for my P. muticus. Will be filling with substrate, adding a bowl, and voila!



It's a 10"x10"x10" enclosure. Box cost $12 before tax.

Reactions: Like 3


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## viper69

Who'd you use for the plastic bit, Tap Plastics?

What new size gauge needle would you recommend now?

Once the glue is in the needle, would it be better to push some out onto a paper towel before applying it?

Why did the painter's tape help you out?


That looks great man!


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## bryverine

1. It was a local plastic place's bit though I suspect taps is the same or better. Using it this time, i did not have a single hole blow out.
2. I believe it was a 30 gauge, though I'll check when I get home.
3. Yes, yes, a thousand times yes! I didn't write that in the instructions, but I squirted some into a rag between each line/new area I did.
4. A couple times I dripped a few drops of solvent on the painters tape near the seams as I was lifting the needle off. I went back afterwards and couldn't find the areas where I had dropped solvent. Crystal clear!

I'll post a finished picture (substrate, water dish, maybe even a tarantula ) when I get home.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## bryverine

And here's the biggest enclosure hobby lobby has to offer!


Perspective is a bit deceiving here...

Reactions: Like 3


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## viper69

Open the lid and Pop Goes the T ! I like the setup. How long did it take you to make your FIRST one, vs now, as you have more experience doing it?

Is the combo 666 ?


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## bryverine

She's a sweatheart; she whispers sweet nothings to me every time I say hi. 

Funny thing is I had a burrow started so if she launched from her tunnel, she'd have to turn around and go back the same distance to get to me (2x distance=2x time to react). I was awfully proud of how clever I was... She went ahead and filled it in. 

It took 20 min to cut, chamfer, and clean the lids. 40 minutes to drill holes and clean them up. 5 minutes of prep work for gluing and maybe 15 minutes to do the actual gluing.

I'd say it definitely a better product, a larger project, and marginally less time spent on it. Then again, I was a bit pressed for time. She came in the day after I finished the enclosure...not bad for an hour and a half though!

I have to make my Avic a larger enclosure soon so I'll probably be getting the 15" tall one next... 

Oh and there combo is the kind of thing an idiot would have on his luggage!


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## Chris LXXIX

Combo 666? 

Such a sweety


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## viper69

Chris LXXIX said:


> Combo 666?
> 
> Such a sweety



His combination lock, I thought the combination might be 666 hahah


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## Chris LXXIX

viper69 said:


> His combination lock, I thought the combination might be 666 hahah


Ah  I got it now. Combo = Combination. 
Should be 777 for that lovely, peaceful, hissing Princess


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## Tatarita

bryverine said:


> So I talked earlier about making a cheap enclosure out of a hobby lobby model enclosure and it worked fantastic! I need to learn not to drop Acrylic solvent everywhere , but fantastic!
> Case 7.99-3.19=4.80
> Hasp - 0.92
> Hinge - 0.92*2=1.84
> Reusable item I chalk up to at least 10 more enclosures (super, ultra underestimate)
> Glue - 6.00/10= 0.60
> 
> I spent about 3 hours tops making this guy
> Total $8.15
> View attachment 205120
> 
> Here's my new little beauty:
> View attachment 205121





bryverine said:


> So I talked earlier about making a cheap enclosure out of a hobby lobby model enclosure and it worked fantastic! I need to learn not to drop Acrylic solvent everywhere , but fantastic!
> Case 7.99-3.19=4.80
> Hasp - 0.92
> Hinge - 0.92*2=1.84
> Reusable item I chalk up to at least 10 more enclosures (super, ultra underestimate)
> Glue - 6.00/10= 0.60
> 
> I spent about 3 hours tops making this guy
> Total $8.15
> View attachment 205120
> 
> Here's my new little beauty:
> View attachment 205121
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QU
> 
> You did a nice job!
> I was wondering if you make one for me, I will pay you.


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## bryverine

My newest enclosure.  15x7x7


My avic (3-3.5" DLS) awaiting her new home!

Reactions: Like 2


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## ArachnaeEsoterica

Put them on ebay or amazon and give me the link I'll buy these from you several times yearly.


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## XsospoonX

bryverine said:


> Sure thing, I'm actually going to make a 10x10x10 soon and have instructions in the making that I was going to post for anyone to use. There are about 5 different sized cases all for under $12 at hobby lobby (after 40% off) and depending on the hole pattern, you can have this too:
> View attachment 205165
> 
> Here's my concept art for a couple of the sizes:
> View attachment 205168


Thats awesome stuff!


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## bryverine

I made another one for my P. regalis. It's next to my A. avic.





Note: gel is for roaches, not T's.

Reactions: Like 2


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> I made another one for my P. regalis. It's next to my A. avic.
> View attachment 211465
> 
> View attachment 211466
> 
> 
> Note: gel is for roaches, not T's.


Some of the best DIY homes I've seen on here in a long time, keep it up!

Reactions: Like 1


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## tetracerus

Great work @bryverine ! I really enjoyed reading this thread and your tutorial.

I've also been thinking about ways to make custom enclosures without a lot of expensive equipment. In the past, I've built various boxes (not for spiders) from laser cut acrylic with finger joints or t-slot joints, which avoids the need for glue or acrylic weld. I know there are apps out there that can generate the finger joints for you (no need for Solidworks) and online services (like Ponoko) for getting pieces laser cut if people don't have access to local shops. Also laser cutting means you can easily make ventilation holes in whatever intricate shape or pattern you fancy! 

I've yet to try those services but I'm curious as to how the prices would compare. Pretty sure it would not beat your cost (unless you have free access to a laser cutter and free scrap pieces of acrylic, which was true for me while I was still in school haha) but it would take a little less actual hands-on work.


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## bryverine

tetracerus said:


> Great work @bryverine ! I really enjoyed reading this thread and your tutorial.
> 
> I've also been thinking about ways to make custom enclosures without a lot of expensive equipment. In the past, I've built various boxes (not for spiders) from laser cut acrylic with finger joints or t-slot joints, which avoids the need for glue or acrylic weld. I know there are apps out there that can generate the finger joints for you (no need for Solidworks) and online services (like Ponoko) for getting pieces laser cut if people don't have access to local shops. Also laser cutting means you can easily make ventilation holes in whatever intricate shape or pattern you fancy!
> 
> I've yet to try those services but I'm curious as to how the prices would compare. Pretty sure it would not beat your cost (unless you have free access to a laser cutter and free scrap pieces of acrylic, which was true for me while I was still in school haha) but it would take a little less actual hands-on work.


Thank you!

I've considered laser cutting for other projects. Though the prices aren't too bad, to really take advantage of them, it seems it should be a bulk/large order. Almost every place I have called locally or got an online quote from had a $50 minimum for my usually $5-10 worth of cutting. 

I see many 'professional' enclosure makers use this and it looks awesome, but they also sell to a large customer base.

This is something I was considering for my larger adult tarantula enclosures like my 0.1 P. muticus and 0.1 LP.


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## viper69

@bryverine - I'd PM you, but my PM inbox is broken @MrDeranged

I know you used a belt sander to remove plastic from the lid to form those angled edges. As I don't have one of those, what would you suggest, and how precise did you make angles so they would match not only on both sides, but of course on all 4 pieces. That's the only part I haven't figured out very well yet.


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## tetracerus

viper69 said:


> @bryverine - I'd PM you, but my PM inbox is broken @MrDeranged
> 
> I know you used a belt sander to remove plastic from the lid to form those angled edges. As I don't have one of those, what would you suggest, and how precise did you make angles so they would match not only on both sides, but of course on all 4 pieces. That's the only part I haven't figured out very well yet.


Perhaps a little sketchy, but you could use a dremel bit that is angled or set the dremel at an angle and slide it along the edge. I've done similar things with a dremel when I've been lazy in the past haha.


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## viper69

tetracerus said:


> Perhaps a little sketchy, but you could use a dremel bit that is angled or set the dremel at an angle and slide it along the edge. I've done similar things with a dremel when I've been lazy in the past haha.


Yep I thought of that as well. It's the angle I'm wondering about it. The best way to match it/measure it etc etc.


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> Yep I thought of that as well. It's the angle I'm wondering about it. The best way to match it/measure it etc etc.


I actually used the sander set to 45ish the first time. I used the bandsaw every time since cause I'm lazy.   A dremel sanding drum, dremel cutoff wheel, a hack saw, sandpaper, sharp file,  etc. will all work well I think. 

Please note:
*Use a file to clean up the burrs that get left behind or the modified lid has trouble sitting flat for gluing*. 

I'd say if there was a tolerance, it should be 45° +20°/-0° removed. I'd err on the side of cutting larger. That being said, I'd still try to keep them close to each other or you'll have the weight of the lid resting on one corner of the door. I used a ruler that rested on the inside of the lid pieces and drew a line so that they were all pretty much the same length. Let me know if I should draw a picture to illustrate. 

My muticus enclosure was WELL past 45° on the sides. The only consequence is that the lid opens further and won't stay open perpendicular to the enclosure. In reality, this might actually be a benefit because there is less stress on those corners of the enclosure when the door opens. Oh and the door opens further too which can be a real nice feature.

Did this help?


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## viper69

bryverine said:


> I actually used the sander set to 45ish the first time. I used the bandsaw every time since cause I'm lazy.   A dremel sanding drum, dremel cutoff wheel, a hack saw, sandpaper, sharp file,  etc. will all work well I think.
> 
> Please note:
> *Use a file to clean up the burrs that get left behind or the modified lid has trouble sitting flat for gluing*.
> 
> I'd say if there was a tolerance, it should be 45° +20°/-0° removed. I'd err on the side of cutting larger. That being said, I'd still try to keep them close to each other or you'll have the weight of the lid resting on one corner of the door. I used a ruler that rested on the inside of the lid pieces and drew a line so that they were all pretty much the same length. Let me know if I should draw a picture to illustrate.
> 
> My muticus enclosure was WELL past 45° on the sides. The only consequence is that the lid opens further and won't stay open perpendicular to the enclosure. In reality, this might actually be a benefit because there is less stress on those corners of the enclosure when the door opens. Oh and the door opens further too which can be a real nice feature.
> 
> Did this help?


AH, you had a tool set to an angle, that's why they came out so nice.

I had a feeling it was 45 degrees. Yeah, I need a picture, I'm a visual learner like most unfortunately with certain things. I'm great in geometry, hence the visual. The cuts I'll be doing are for an Avic setup. I do like the idea of having the lid come down further, ie more than perpendicular to the Y- axis of the arboreal cage itself (if that makes sense). Like the 10 gallon lids we've seen people make for their Ts in tanks.

No rush on the diagrams.


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## bryverine

viper69 said:


> AH, you had a tool set to an angle, that's why they came out so nice.
> 
> I had a feeling it was 45 degrees. Yeah, I need a picture, I'm a visual learner like most unfortunately with certain things. I'm great in geometry, hence the visual. The cuts I'll be doing are for an Avic setup. I do like the idea of having the lid come down further, ie more than perpendicular to the Y- axis of the arboreal cage itself (if that makes sense). Like the 10 gallon lids we've seen people make for their Ts in tanks.
> 
> No rush on the diagrams.


You'll have to forgive the crudeness of the following drawing, but I think it illustrates what I mean.


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## Garth Vader

This is great!  I found these display cases at Hobby Lobby and getting all set to work on them.  I think I'll be doing a Dummies version, which means I'm not engineer minded (at all) and have minimal tools- so we will see how it goes!  Thanks for putting the plans together.  Very useful.

Reactions: Like 1


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## bryverine

Hey just one more picture to clarify the 45° cut for the hinge area.

Cut the lid into thirds and then remove material from the corners where the hinge will be (shown in red).

Reactions: Like 1


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## AntoineGJ

Thank you for these amazing enclosures.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Seraph

I may have missed it but what size drill bits did you use?


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## sdsnybny

For slings I use 1/16th" and 1/8-1/4 for juvenile to adult. Remember if the carapace can fit through the rest will also.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Duriana

I'm thinking about using these for Jumping spiders. Wondering where you got the cork pieces?


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## jaycied

I love love love making hobby lobby cases. They are so cheap, especially after the 40% off, and look great. I keep a good number of slings in the hot wheels cases.


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## mitty

These are great! I haven't made any myself since I don't currently have a dremel.. But I would totally love to do something like this for my arboreals.


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## bryverine

Duriana said:


> I'm thinking about using these for Jumping spiders. Wondering where you got the cork pieces?


It's called a "cork tile". Then I just cut it to size. I found it locally on sale at one point.


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## Jellyfish Jenni

bryverine said:


> Sure thing, I'm actually going to make a 10x10x10 soon and have instructions in the making that I was going to post for anyone to use. There are about 5 different sized cases all for under $12 at hobby lobby (after 40% off) and depending on the hole pattern, you can have this too:
> View attachment 205165
> 
> Here's my concept art for a couple of the sizes:
> View attachment 205168


I'd buy those in a heart beat! so modern and nice looking!


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## mickiem

Great display!  I will try this for my mantids.


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## Jmanbeing93

Is it possible to make an arboreal enclosure with following dimensions:  7-3/8" sq. x 11-5/8" h?

Here's the enclosure in question, it's a football display cube: https://www.containerstore.com/s/collections/display/football-display-cube/12d?productId=10001592

I was also wondering if anyone had tips on making a hinged or sliding doors as well.


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## sdsnybny

Jmanbeing93 said:


> Is it possible to make an arboreal enclosure with following dimensions:  7-3/8" sq. x 11-5/8" h?
> 
> Here's the enclosure in question, it's a football display cube: https://www.containerstore.com/s/collections/display/football-display-cube/12d?productId=10001592
> 
> I was also wondering if anyone had tips on making a hinged or sliding doors as well.


Those are top opening and would work for pokies. psalmos,  Tappies,  and any arboreal that starts out as a burrower making dirt curtains . They wouldnt work well for arboreal T's that web up high since they most likely would web the top closed.


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## Jmanbeing93

sdsnybny said:


> Those are top opening and would work for pokies. psalmos,  Tappies,  and any arboreal that starts out as a burrower making dirt curtains . They wouldnt work well for arboreal T's that web up high since they most likely would web the top closed.


What would be a good enclosure for Avics, Caribena and Ybrapora?


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## sdsnybny

For an adult/sub adult a front opening enclosure 6"x6"x12"-8"x8"x14", something that enables them to retain the tube web home they make when the door opens. If its a sling or a Juvenile I use the Amac boxes from the container store 2 5/16" sq x 4 3/16" tall for slings and 4"sq x 7 1/4" tall for juveniles.

2.5 gallon aquarium tipped on edge and converted for adult



Sling and juvenile upside down Amac boxes



Link to store
https://www.containerstore.com/s/clear-amac-boxes/d?productId=10003497&q=Amac boxes


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