# What kind of acrylic is usually used in tarantula enclosures?



## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

I'm in the process of making a display enclosure(s) and was wondering what type of acrylic would be the best? I've never made an enclosure before or really worked with acrylic so I don't know which would be the sturdiest and look the best.

I was thinking either this:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_78777-1638-1X08126A_1z0ylvsZ1z10v2s__?productId=3143521&pl=1
or
http://www.lowes.com/pd_11288-1638-1AG2196A_1z0vjjgZ1z0ylvs__?productId=3502046&pl=1

In your own opinion, which would be the best for an enclosure and to drill/solder holes in?


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

I have used the optic before with decent results on wooden cages for the doors cut with a table saw and drilled easy but I was using 1/4 inch thick

Reactions: Informative 1


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## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> I have used the optic before with decent results on wooden cages for the doors cut with a table saw and drilled easy but I was using 1/4 inch thick


The closest to 1/4" I've seen is .22", think that would work fine? 
Now just to find the other parts for the enclosure haha

Reactions: Like 1


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> The closest to 1/4" I've seen is .22", think that would work fine?
> Now just to find the other parts for the enclosure haha


Probably fine tap plastics if you have one nearby has everything you need if not check out there website you can order the hinges cement latches and everything else


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## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> Probably fine tap plastics if you have one nearby has everything you need if not check out there website you can order the hinges cement latches and everything else


Was actually looking at their site just right now haha. Would an aquarium silicone work well with gluing the pieces together?


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Was actually looking at their site just right now haha. Would an aquarium silicone work well with gluing the pieces together?


Not as well as the acrylic cement.  Silicone for whatever reason doesn't like to bond to acrylic the acrylic cement actually melts the two peices H till they become one ..other cool thing about that sight is you can order pre cut peices exactly the size you need your glue and all and then just assemble it

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## viper69 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Was actually looking at their site just right now haha. Would an aquarium silicone work well with gluing the pieces together?


Tap Plastics has an acrylic kit, including the solvent to chemically weld the sides together. I haven't seen anyone use silicone to make these cages.

Also, the thicker your acrylic the less likely the piece will bow over time. That's why glass is better in that dept.

Honestly, if you are going to spend all the time to make an acrylic container, don't use a solder iron, it will come out like crap IMO. Drill the ventilation holes in. You can use general purpose drill bits, or bits made for acrylic. You know you are drilling too fast when the acrylic melts. Don't use a Dremel! I've posted a lot about this a while back.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> Not as well as the acrylic cement.  Silicone for whatever reason doesn't like to bond to acrylic the acrylic cement actually melts the two peices H till they become one ..other cool thing about that sight is you can order pre cut peices exactly the size you need your glue and all and then just assemble it


Would that still be safe for the T? 

I was actually going to get the acrylic pieces at a store so I can avoid shipping cost, and they cut for free haha



viper69 said:


> Tap Plastics has an acrylic kit, including the solvent to chemically weld the sides together. I haven't seen anyone use silicone to make these cages.
> 
> Also, the thicker your acrylic the less likely the piece will bow over time. That's why glass is better in that dept.
> 
> Honestly, if you are going to spend all the time to make an acrylic container, don't use a solder iron, it will come out like crap IMO. Drill the ventilation holes in. You can use general purpose drill bits, or bits made for acrylic. You know you are drilling too fast when the acrylic melts. Don't use a Dremel! I've posted a lot about this a while back.


I'd love to use glass, but then there's the problem of drilling holes into it. Do you think .22" thick acrylic will bow over time? It's the thickest I could find at a local hardware store.

Thanks so much for the help!


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Would that still be safe for the T?
> 
> I was actually going to get the acrylic pieces at a store so I can avoid shipping cost, and they cut for free haha
> 
> ...


Absolutely safe just make sure to do it in a seperate room and don't put the t in it for a few days till it completely cures.  Whatch with lowes or homedepote they even say it at the cutting station their cuts are only accurate to a 1/4 of an inch but that can be a big difference if your making a box


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

Thickness should be fine for most cages unless your building some 2 ft tall monster but .22 is pretty thick and when bonded well works very well.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> Absolutely safe just make sure to do it in a seperate room and don't put the t in it for a few days till it completely cures.  Whatch with lowes or homedepote they even say it at the cutting station their cuts are only accurate to a 1/4 of an inch but that can be a big difference if your making a box





Blackout14 said:


> Thickness should be fine for most cages unless your building some 2 ft tall monster but .22 is pretty thick and when bonded well works very well.


Ah shoot. So if I'm looking to get cuts for a 20"x12"x12" enclosure made, I shouldn't get it from there because they'll be off?

Thanks!


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## viper69 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Would that still be safe for the T?
> 
> I was actually going to get the acrylic pieces at a store so I can avoid shipping cost, and they cut for free haha
> 
> ...


Not sure if that thickness will bow over time or not to be honest. I don't think so, but I was actually wondering myself. I would call Tap Plastics!


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## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

viper69 said:


> Not sure if that thickness will bow over time or not to be honest. I don't think so, but I was actually wondering myself. I would call Tap Plastics!


 Gotcha, thanks!

Last thing, do you think extruded acrylic is better for an enclosure, or is it better to ask TAPS?


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## viper69 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Gotcha, thanks!
> 
> Last thing, do you think extruded acrylic is better for an enclosure, or is it better to ask TAPS?


TAPS, as I'm no acrylic Jedi 

One more thing, while I don't use their acrylic drill bits, I have heard from some that used them and they said they worked perfectly. So while pricey, I'd get those bits. They are single fluted (google it).


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Gotcha, thanks!
> 
> Last thing, do you think extruded acrylic is better for an enclosure, or is it better to ask TAPS?


Not sure on that one I would ask taps but I would not trust lowes to cut something so clean your cuts need to be within a half an inch to line up that's too much for them I think

Reactions: Agree 1


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## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> Not sure on that one I would ask taps but I would not trust lowes to cut something so clean your cuts need to be within a half an inch to line up that's too much for them I think


Thanks for the heads up! 

I think I honestly might just buy acrylic at Lowe's or another hardware store and cut it myself using a knife or I'll try to borrow a power tool from the uni I'm at. I'll have them cut the first piece and then just make cuts based on those sizes (as long as they don't cut it diagonal or crooked). It's just too expensive for shipping and having it cut at TAP as well as other places.


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Thanks for the heads up!
> 
> I think I honestly might just buy acrylic at Lowe's or another hardware store and cut it myself using a knife or I'll try to borrow a power tool from the uni I'm at. I'll have them cut the first piece and then just make cuts based on those sizes (as long as they don't cut it diagonal or crooked). It's just too expensive for shipping and having it cut at TAP as well as other places.


You can cut it with a sharp razor knife and a straight edge just keep scoring till it's half way through then snap it off in the edge of a table.  Leave the plastic or paper coating in till your done so you don't scratch it but if you have access to a table saw it works great for 1/4 thick stuff you will need to sand or rougher the edges to get them smooth before glueing though

Reactions: Informative 1


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## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> You can cut it with a sharp razor knife and a straight edge just keep scoring till it's half way through then snap it off in the edge of a table.  Leave the plastic or paper coating in till your done so you don't scratch it but if you have access to a table saw it works great for 1/4 thick stuff you will need to sand or rougher the edges to get them smooth before glueing though


I'll try looking for a table saw I can borrow! If you snap it when it's half way or more, will it still be a clean cut you think?

And yea, I see a lot of sanding in the future haha

Thanks!


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> I'll try looking for a table saw I can borrow! If you snap it when it's half way or more, will it still be a clean cut you think?
> 
> And yea, I see a lot of sanding in the future haha
> 
> Thanks!


It makes a pretty clean line it's essentially the same way Home Depot or lowes cut set their table gaurentees a straight line they score it a few times then snap


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## antinous (Jun 2, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> It makes a pretty clean line it's essentially the same way Home Depot or lowes cut set their table gaurentees a straight line they score it a few times then snap


Gotcha. Thanks! I really appreciate the help!


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## Blackout14 (Jun 2, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Gotcha. Thanks! I really appreciate the help!


Sure thing I like to build things it comes in handy sometimes . My new cages are going to be 5 gallon aquaria though with custom kids much easier and once I get a template for the lid will take me seconds to build em lol


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## bryverine (Jun 3, 2016)

@Phormic28
Ok with cut acrylic, you need VERY SMOOTH, STRAIGHT edges to weld or it looks pretty miserable and/or will not weld properly.

There are plastic table saw blades that cut really nice or you might just need to over size the piece and router it smooth.

I would personally highly recommend a plastic drill bit. They prevent blowout and are actually suited very well for cutting acrylic smoothly. My first few times drilling acrylic using a home modified drill bit for plastics went ok, but when I bought and used that plastic one... I could hear angels singing...

Just use lexan and steel bits are fine! Sure it's expensive, but at least you'll have bullet/shatter proof plastic!

Reactions: Agree 2


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## AndrewBiddar (Jun 4, 2016)

my Acrylic enclosures warped with moisture so i was under the impression it was too thin. gonna try a sturdiness material.

Reactions: Clarification Please 1


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## antinous (Jun 4, 2016)

AndrewBiddar said:


> my Acrylic enclosures warped with moisture so i was under the impression it was too thin. gonna try a sturdiness material.


What was the thickness of the acrylic you used?

Reactions: Like 1


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## antinous (Jun 4, 2016)

bryverine said:


> @Phormic28
> Ok with cut acrylic, you need VERY SMOOTH, STRAIGHT edges to weld or it looks pretty miserable and/or will not weld properly.
> 
> There are plastic table saw blades that cut really nice or you might just need to over size the piece and router it smooth.
> ...


Thanks for the reply! (Sorry it took a while for me to respond).

I'll be getting a plastic drill bit for sure (from TAP)! Do you think it's not really wise to cut the acrylic by hand with a knife? I was just going to ask them to cut one piece of each size and then use that as a guide for the others.


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## bryverine (Jun 4, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Thanks for the reply! (Sorry it took a while for me to respond).
> 
> I'll be getting a plastic drill bit for sure (from TAP)! Do you think it's not really wise to cut the acrylic by hand with a knife? I was just going to ask them to cut one piece of each size and then use that as a guide for the others.


I've never cut them by hand but I suspect the scribe and break method won't yield a perfect edge. I've tried a fine tooth band saw and a guide and it certainly didn't give me smooth enough edges to glue. You might want to try on a piece first and see if it's OK.

With even the slightest waviness, you'll create gaps. Unevenness and gaps will create bubbles. If you don't mind having those bumps and bubbles, then it might be fine.

Reactions: Helpful 2


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## viper69 (Jun 4, 2016)

bryverine said:


> I've never cut them by hand but I suspect the scribe and break method won't yield a perfect edge


He's right. I've heard the same thing.


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## antinous (Jun 4, 2016)

bryverine said:


> I've never cut them by hand but I suspect the scribe and break method won't yield a perfect edge. I've tried a fine tooth band saw and a guide and it certainly didn't give me smooth enough edges to glue. You might want to try on a piece first and see if it's OK.
> 
> With even the slightest waviness, you'll create gaps. Unevenness and gaps will create bubbles. If you don't mind having those bumps and bubbles, then it might be fine.





viper69 said:


> He's right. I've heard the same thing.


Well there goes my plan... I was thinking about sanding the sides down to make them as uniform as I can get, but I don't know how plausible that is.


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## Blackout14 (Jun 4, 2016)

Sanding with progressively find paper after cutting will get you a good edge.  Router would be better though.  Ordering precut from taps plastics looks better and better . Order glue and done


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## antinous (Jun 4, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> Sanding with progressively find paper after cutting will get you a good edge.  Router would be better though.  Ordering precut from taps plastics looks better and better . Order glue and done


Haha, if it wasn't so pricey I'd have ordered pieces from there by now. I think I'll just find somewhere to buy an enclosure/

Reactions: Like 1


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## Blackout14 (Jun 4, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Haha, if it wasn't so pricey I'd have ordered pieces from there by now. I think I'll just find somewhere to buy an enclosure/


It's not too bad still cheaper then buying one I priced out 4 peices ore cut it came to like $30 order an assload of hinges and all so you have em and have at it!


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## antinous (Jun 4, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> It's not too bad still cheaper then buying one I priced out 4 peices ore cut it came to like $30 order an assload of hinges and all so you have em and have at it!


Only problem is that if I'm order 3/16" the pieces come out to $80 (four 20x12 and two 12x12 for a Pampho. enclosure) alone w/o shipping and other parts, but I'm just nervous about drilling holes in it, if I do happen to crack one, then it's all a waste.


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## antinous (Jun 4, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> It's not too bad still cheaper then buying one I priced out 4 peices ore cut it came to like $30 order an assload of hinges and all so you have em and have at it!


Did you get cast or extruded acrylic?


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## bryverine (Jun 4, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Well there goes my plan... I was thinking about sanding the sides down to make them as uniform as I can get, but I don't know how plausible that is.


Is not just sanding an edge smooth, it's sanding it perpendicular to the sides within 0.01". If you're not at least close,  it's all crooked and everything goes to heck... trust me, i know. 
I've made those edges crystal clear (turns out printer paper works better at polishing acrylic and lexan that polishing paste or crocus cloth) only to realize over 15" even 0.4 degrees off makes a BIG difference!

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Blackout14 (Jun 4, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> Did you get cast or extruded acrylic?


Don't remmeber but I beleive cast whatever was cheaper for 1/4 thick


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## TarantulasWorld (Jun 5, 2016)

I use .22 or .23 acrylic sheets. Anything thinner or even thicker tends to warp and bow over time


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## viper69 (Jun 6, 2016)

Phormic28 said:


> but I don't know how plausible that is.


Not worth it IMO from what I heard from people with more experience than myself on this one, across a few different forums too.


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## viper69 (Jun 6, 2016)

TarantulasWorld said:


> Anything thinner or even thicker tends to warp and bow over time


Why does a bit thicker bow...due to weight?


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## bryverine (Jun 6, 2016)

viper69 said:


> Why does a bit thicker bow...due to weight?


I'll add that I've seen many acrylic 125 gallon fish tanks that not only have the tarantula standard of air, but water that creates a resultant force of over 2500 lbs on the walls and they don't warp too quickly.

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## viper69 (Jun 6, 2016)

bryverine said:


> I'll add that I've seen many acrylic 125 gallon fish tanks that not only have the tarantula standard of air, but water that creates a resultant force of over 2500 lbs on the walls and they don't warp too quickly.


That's why I was confused by the person's statement. I don't know enough about acrylic materials. I thought for sure if a thicker material bowed, how come I haven't heard of this w/ all the "new" fish tanks that are made of acrylic that is even thicker, and as you said, have more force against it with water inside.....

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## TarantulasWorld (Jun 8, 2016)

viper69 said:


> That's why I was confused by the person's statement. I don't know enough about acrylic materials. I thought for sure if a thicker material bowed, how come I haven't heard of this w/ all the "new" fish tanks that are made of acrylic that is even thicker, and as you said, have more force against it with water inside.....


This is just what Ive noticed. I suspected it was due to it being cut smaller and going through heat/cold every single day. It makes the lids warp ridiculousely and would be more then happy to pull out old tanks ive made and take pics of them to show as proof  - I have no reason to make this up


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## viper69 (Jun 8, 2016)

TarantulasWorld said:


> This is just what Ive noticed. I suspected it was due to it being cut smaller and going through heat/cold every single day. It makes the lids warp ridiculousely and would be more then happy to pull out old tanks ive made and take pics of them to show as proof  - I have no reason to make this up



Haha,,, I believe you haaha, it sounds so counterintuitive that's all


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## bryverine (Jun 9, 2016)

TarantulasWorld said:


> This is just what Ive noticed. I suspected it was due to it being cut smaller and going through heat/cold every single day. It makes the lids warp ridiculousely and would be more then happy to pull out old tanks ive made and take pics of them to show as proof  - I have no reason to make this up


I find this quite interesting. Unless there are big inherent stresses in the material, i don't know that slight hot/cold variation alone would do this. 

Besides the tank example I used earlier, I have used several acrylic vent hoods with incandescent bulbs. The only time I've ever seen waviness is from prolonged high heat near where the plastic becomes flexible. I think it's called glass transition temp (correct me if I'm wrong).

A florescent bulb operates around 112F (44C) where the glass transition temp is 185F (85C).

I had a guy leave the incandescent bulb on overnight on a piece of 1/4" acrylic. It's now a nice little hump. 

Now if it was glued to something with stress in the material (even steel has to relax after being cut) then heat/cool might influence it.


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## Blackout14 (Jun 9, 2016)

Don't know I have used 1/4 forever and it fits perfect in the lip and haven't had an issue

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## Blackout14 (Jun 11, 2016)

Once you cut .22 or 1/4 down to the right sizes it gets really ridged and does not want to bend..these are some I just finished for five gallons I have never had an issue with this size warping Cept on high heat reptile tanks and anything would warp at 100 degrees lol


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## viper69 (Jun 11, 2016)

Blackout14 said:


> Once you cut .22 or 1/4 down to the right sizes it gets really ridged and does not want to bend..these are some I just finished for five gallons I have never had an issue with this size warping Cept on high heat reptile tanks and anything would warp at 100 degrees lol


Appreciate the info on that size!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Blackout14 (Jun 11, 2016)

viper69 said:


> Appreciate the info on that size!


For the record most companies that advertise 1/4 actually are like .22 or .23 kinda like how 2/4's aren't really 2 inches by 4 inches. I cut all these on a table saw with a finer blade and drilled with a regular drill bit I got a few chips on the holes but I was going fast it was getting dark and 30 holes on the drill press was getting old haha


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