# 'False bottom' for tarantula enclosure?



## dragonblade71 (Feb 13, 2008)

Ive been reading about 'false bottoms' (level of stones filled with water and topped with substrate) in tropical scorpion enclosures and I was wondering if a similar set up could be used in a tarantula enclosure? I am planning to aquire a Phlogius spider and most species in this genus live in rainforests. I also have plans to obtain a Selenotholous spider. Although tarantulas in the Selenotholous genus live in arid environments, they still need a reasonable amount of humidity because they spend most of their time in their burrows which are constructed in moist soil below the dry surface. Would there be any disadvantages to using a 'false bottom' in a tarantula enclosure?


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## Kris-wIth-a-K (Feb 13, 2008)

*hmm*

The rock wouldnt really be necessary.  Just make sure it has room to burrow, maybe some fake plants (not too much) a water dish.  Spiders will probably web a little bit and burrow next to the plants.  At least thats what all mine to do.  They burrow next to structures.   

The rocks wouldnt be bad but if it a glass tank and a glass bottom and you put a lot of rocks in it, then the glass might break if you decide to move it especially if their is water in it.  They yes you would have a problem, broken glass everywhere, rocks, substrate to clean and possibly an injured or grushed spider.  If its plastic then still wouldbt be bad. You would just have to change the water if it was in their too long.


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## UrbanJungles (Feb 13, 2008)

I use false bottoms in almost all of my arboreal tanks/jars.  I found that using a false bottom allows the enclosure to hold more moisture but yet also allows it to dry out evenly i the course of a 24-48 hr period.

I use a bottom layer of expanded clay pellets (LECA) which is topped off with some fiberglass screening to keep everything out of the drainage layer.  The I add some long fiber sphagnum moss and finally the substrate which is usually peat/sand/coco fiber mix.


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## dianedfisher (Feb 13, 2008)

*LECA layer*

Danny;  That is a superb set-up.  Pygmy chameleon tanks are set-up in the same fashion-I don't know why I didn't think to try it with arboreal T's as well.  In the future I sure will.  The hydroton layer probably won't encourage mites either.  Nice job!   I see you got one of Adam's new front opening cages.  Don't ya LOVE it?  Di


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## UrbanJungles (Feb 13, 2008)

Thanks. I generally use this same setup for many "Vivarium" type species that enjoy alot of humidity, from Dart frogs to Chameleons and obviously spiders.  So far, it has worked very well for me and it's next to impossible to oversaturate the tank so you keep a really nice humidity layer.  

The downside is you need some vertical space for it to work.  But I've actually even used this method even on the little acrylic cubes you buy at craft stores.


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## tamjam69 (Feb 13, 2008)

That looks great and think we're going to do the same for our P.Miranda, pinching ideas from the expert!!!!:5:


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## macjizzle (Feb 13, 2008)

where does one get those sexy enclosures? are they expensive? i would like to get one for when my arboreal T starts living outside of its' burrow. also, my T's usually don't get the humidity they need as stated on caresheets...is this bad? i mean the humidity for my Ts arent that far away from whats needed around 50% or so but when i try to keep the humidity up it just goes back down really fast.


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## UrbanJungles (Feb 13, 2008)

If you cut down on some of the ventilation it may help to increase humidity.  A deeper layer of substrate may also help....

This cage is the large arboreal model from www.tarantulacages.com
It's a really sexy cage, the Jessica Alba of Tcages for sure....


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## GootyGuy (Feb 13, 2008)

i have never used clay pellets. do they just suck up water and dry fast or can you get a mold problem from the bottom up very easy?


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## Cocoa-Jin (Feb 13, 2008)

1/4 to 1/2 inch PVC pipe cut to fit length or width wise, covered with vinyl window screening.  If possible, use the plastic grid covers for flouresecnt lights as floor over the PVC pipes and cover that with vinyl screening.  Its super light weight, if you use the plastic grid youonly need PVC pipe for teh ends spread a few more in the middle for support. 

If you want less dead space underneath you can get smaller pipes or cut them in half into semi-circles.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## UrbanJungles (Feb 14, 2008)

I've used PVC in the passed successfully but for these clear cages I prefer to go with something a little more "organic".  I couldn't deal with PVC pipes showing in my display...I'm kind of silly like that.  The clay and the sphagnum also help out with the humidity balance better than plastic would.

And for Gooty guy, as long as no organic materials get down there (which they shouldn't if properly designed) there's no worry about mold or fungus.  The acidic properties of the sphagnum and peat also help to retard any growth.


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## dianedfisher (Feb 14, 2008)

UrbanJungles said:


> I've used PVC in the passed successfully but for these clear cages I prefer to go with something a little more "organic".  I couldn't deal with PVC pipes showing in my display...I'm kind of silly like that.  The clay and the sphagnum also help out with the humidity balance better than plastic would.
> 
> And for Gooty guy, as long as no organic materials get down there (which they shouldn't if properly designed) there's no worry about mold or fungus.  The acidic properties of the sphagnum and peat also help to retard any growth.


Danny, I have used sphagnum (long fibre) in Asian Water Dragon habitats, as well as T's, in the past and I almost always end up replacing it with "green" moss because the sphagnum molds and stinks.  I found it to be a real problem in the smaller habitats for T's.  Just thought I'd throw that in.  The green moss can be found in the plant dept. at Lowes/Home Depot right next to the sphagnum.  Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I used terrarium fans for my  larger enclosures and in my spider cabinet but still experience the mold if I use sphagnum.  Di


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## UrbanJungles (Feb 14, 2008)

dianedfisher said:


> Danny, I have used sphagnum (long fibre) in Asian Water Dragon habitats, as well as T's, in the past and I almost always end up replacing it with "green" moss because the sphagnum molds and stinks.  I found it to be a real problem in the smaller habitats for T's.  Just thought I'd throw that in.  The green moss can be found in the plant dept. at Lowes/Home Depot right next to the sphagnum.  Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I used terrarium fans for my  larger enclosures and in my spider cabinet but still experience the mold if I use sphagnum.  Di


Mold almost always has to do with bad ventilation.  T's can get by with amazingly little air but when you are trying to keep a moist organic environment it's important to have proper air movement and quality or this will certainly kill your T's. It of course goes without saying that you should always keep a clean cage as well.  It helps if you allow the sphagnum to dry out a bit, or better yet never let it get and stay really soaked.

I place the long-fiber sphagnum on top of the pellets and seperate the two with mesh. Like so...this way the moss sort of "drip dries" over the pellets.







So when the environment is saturated and water starts to build up in the drainage layer I back off on misting and allow things to dry out a bit.


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## SuperRad (Feb 14, 2008)

Where do you get these clay pellets from and what are they typically used for outside the realms of false bottom tanks?


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## dianedfisher (Feb 14, 2008)

SuperRad said:


> Where do you get these clay pellets from and what are they typically used for outside the realms of false bottom tanks?


A lot of Dart frog sites (Josh's) and most Vivarium/Terrarium sites (black jungle) sell them.  Most call them hydroton.  They absorb excess water and hold it all the while providing humidity.  Di


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## Scott C. (Feb 14, 2008)

I was under the impression that a true false bottom set up was one where all substrate(including clay aggregate) stopped a bit from the bottom(at the false bottom), and water could exit to be recirculated back to a water feature, etc.


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## UrbanJungles (Feb 14, 2008)

That's one way a false bottom is used...  :?


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## Duc de Blangis (Mar 19, 2008)

You can get a huge bag of LECA (30 liters) for about 30 dollars from a hydroponics store.  If anybody lives in queens or long island there's a place on horace harding expressway in flushing. [B]http://www.growny.com/[/B] 

I also pick up large 11lb bricks of coconut fiber from there for 13$ *Look here*

And this is what happens when you use a false bottom with a burrower


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## Cocoa-Jin (Mar 20, 2008)

Scott C. said:


> I was under the impression that a true false bottom set up was one where all substrate(including clay aggregate) stopped a bit from the bottom(at the false bottom), and water could exit to be recirculated back to a water feature, etc.


thats when the PVC piping works.  it provides an inert base to create the dead space below Urbanjungle's peat, sphagnum, clay pellets, etc.


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