# Centruroides vittatus care help



## BishopiMaster (Jun 22, 2009)

hey everybody, i am currently getting my collection up again, im buying some scolopendra polymorphas when cb babies get available but thats beside the point. i am looking to keep 3 centruroides vittatus in a 12x12x12 container, specifically the exo terra desert habitat kit small, i want my scorpions to live very long obviously so let me know if he will live longer if i take away the others. i plan to remove any uneaten prey 24 hours after its been given. the setup im buying comes with a thermometer and humidity gauge, but they are those cheap plastic ones so i was wondering if i should get the digital one from big apple herp.
i just want the best  health for my scorpion or scorpion's so i will follow whatever guidelines i can and will spend extra money if necesarry.
i think i will feed them once a week, but switch up the menu every week.
so any advice is appreciated, also i am looking to breed them to get some cb babies so advic e on that is nice too


thanks


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## Widowman10 (Jun 22, 2009)

they are communal, so there should be no need to separate them (unless a female is about to give birth). and a temp/hum gauge is unnecessary and not worth anything anyway. better off without it. they should be fine on a once weekly diet of whatever. crix work just fine among many other things.


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 22, 2009)

well i heard c. vittatus occur in wet forest in texas and deserts in texas, im confused, so how often do i miss the enclosure


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

err mist the enclosure


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*C. vittatus*

Hey, I am not an expert, so take everything I say here with a grain of salt.  I don't really know anything.  But I do have a bunch of vittatus, 3 different morphs that I have collected from 3 different parts of texas.  I would have to say that the barks are probably one of the easiest and least picky of the animals I have.  They live in humid forest (for texas that is, but you would be surprised), to really bone dry deserts.  Heck, it probably ranges from below freezing lows in the winter, to 115 degrees in the shade on a summer day.  They can live in sandy, clay, duff, coco, etc,etc.  I would think you would have a hard time killing them without almost trying.  They will eat each other.  I have seen it in nature while collecting.  But I haven't noticed it in any of my cages yet.  I think you could probably have more than 3 in there, especially given enough vertical room, and no long term food withdraw by you.  

Speaking of, they hardly, if ever burrow in my enclosures.  Cork bark is their best friend. Try to get enough room and "hides" with vertical space in there and they will be primo.  

If you can find out if they are xeric or mesic, you could adapt habitat to their more local needs, but I doubt it really matters.  I keep my mesic on pure coco, and make sure there is at least some humidity in there.  I keep my xeric a little dryer, using really dry coco and sand mix.  I invariably spill a little water filling water dish and mist a little once a week or so.  If you have any other questions, I would be glad to answer them.  Again, I am not an expert, but then again, I do have a couple hundred of them at my house right now.    :O) Peace, Ryan


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*How much do you mist?*

Saying how many times to mist is kinda iffy.  How big is your mister?  How many times do you squeeze before calling it a misting?  1, 25?  So it varies.  I personally try to mist mine 2x a week.  Much lighter on xerics.  I also always have water available to either.  But I also let them dry out pretty good before misting heavily again for either one.  So if you see/feel humidity in there.  you can do a light misting once or twice a week.  If it is bone dry, I would give them a decent misting once a week, and maybe a light one once a week as well.  But that may be kind of micro managing.  I don't know.  It's just what I am doing right now, and they all seem to be doing great.   I have more babies popping out than I know what to do with.  So I think mine is o.k.  :O)


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

well my mister is the size of a windex one, aged water, i usually mist 12 times, the scorpions im buying are going to be from ken the bug guy says theyre adults, what if it gets too humid i dont want any parasites on my scorpion or nematodes im getting paranoid and confused


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## tabor (Jun 23, 2009)

OK, not trying to be a jerk at ALL but take this advice and you will succeed at keeping anything:

when in doubt (this applies to any species): see where they are typically found and the conditions of the area. Under fallen trees? Rocks? Just cruising about?

check the conditions they are found in the wild and replicate them.

applies to any species.

best advice i can give to anyone. sure, it requires some googling and searching, but the closer you replicate their natural environs the more success you will have.


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## Widowman10 (Jun 23, 2009)

exactly tabor! :clap:

best advice ever. does require a bit of research though for sure. unless you were lucky enough to find it in your backyard


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

i dont get how you were being a "jerk" thanks for the advice, will post in about 40 mins


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

well heres the deal i did some research and

Given its wide range of distribution this species can adapt to almost any condition. The color contrasts are mainly dependent to it's locale. Xeric color forms are generally darker and are commonly found in desert like regions, whereas the Mesic color form is lighter and brighter colors and come from more humid and lush habitats. In the wild this species will take up residence wherever it can, amongst tiny crevices in rocks, under rocks, between tree bark and even dark corners of bathrooms. It has the ability to allow for slight tissue damage for surviving temperatures well below freezing. C. vittatus is a nocturnal species, like most other scorpions, and takes refuge during the day in cool, dark and damper areas. Being a communal species, it is not all too uncommon to turn over a rock and find several C. vittatus sharing the space. Predominantly known as a climber, this species has been witnessed burrowing on numerous occasions as well - particularly during captivity.

so basically the xeric morphs which are darker are found in the desert area, ( in this case the exo terra desert should be just fine which is what i am getting) and ill add some various rocks and dry branches as that i assume is whats found in the desert there, i wont use cactuses because i dont want it getting injured and developing parasites.

then the mesic morphs are the light and brighter ones, in this case i need to provide a more humid and lush habitat as it says, i dont know what that is as too climbing objects, substrate and temperate/humidity.
since i am getting 3 i am wondering if they are all different morphs what to do then. also i read burrowing has been observed, whatever substrate i use, it needs to encourage burrowing, and a source i saw says to replace the way dish every few days, but i am thinking it make it available at all times


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## tabor (Jun 23, 2009)

i told you so  

applies to any species. 

your own research is better than others advice 90% of the time.


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

also tips on preventing parasites would be nice Too, i already take out any uneaten prety 24 hours after its been given


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## tabor (Jun 23, 2009)

BishopiMaster said:


> also tips on preventing parasites would be nice Too, i already take out any uneaten prety 24 hours after its been given


that plus not feeding wild caught prey should be enough'also get food from pet stores not bait stores.


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*Burrowing?*

If anyone with personal knowledge contradicting my no burrow views below, I would love to hear it.  I could be wrong about this.  But I have a ton of them in my house right now.  And I have collected them in Many locations and bioregions.  So if I am wrong, I would like to know what I am missing.  But I don't believe they burrow.  I am sure they could if needed.  And yes, they will "burrow" under a rock.  But they don't dig holes they crawl into like my P. reddelli.  Not ONE burrow yet.  So anyone????

(They don't burrow.  They will "burrow" under a rock.  But I have collected hundreds of them and never seen a burrow.  I have 3 different morphs in my house all with room to burrow.  They don't. (they "burrow" in tree trunks, under rocks, and in rock piles.)  When I redo my tanks I am going to lower substrate level in a couple of cages and add more vertical.) 

From the hundreds that I have collected in 3 parts of texas, I would say that my local mesic are way darker than any of the xeric I have found.  Oh, and panthernesis, (I am doing some research myself) looks two different ways depending on what website you are on, so I am still confused about those.  I have some that were i.d. as "panthernesis"  and can't figure that out because a lot of the websites contradict each other.  Which is why it's better to look on here tabor! It's hard to tell who's right, except on here because a ton of other hobbyists' etc will jump in to reaffirm or deny your advice.  Some websites are good, others are not, but it is really hard to tell sometimes.  

Even with the wet one, that doesn't mean super wet.  It shouldn't look like a rainforest or the like.  And you should always give them water if possible.  They can go a couple of days without it.  But I always leave water dish.  
(we could survive if our water was portioned out to us, but isn't it nicer to pour yourself a cup when you are thirsty?)

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.  And if you want some more detailed info on weather, I would recommend getting some city names where they are found, and looking them up on weather channel.  Heck if you wanted to spend enough money, you could set up an automated system that replicates the weather daily where they are from.  But that would be a little overkill.   :O)      

And if you want some more pics of where they are from, let me know and I will put them up later.  Right now, I have some vittatus and P. reddelli that I just collected that need packed up.  so Good Luck!  Peace, Ryan


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*parasites etc.*

I am not an expert on this,.. but I can tell you what I do and I bet someone else will chime in to reaffirm on deny my practices.  (If you haven't noticed yet, there are some differences in opinions on here sometimes)

1.  You could try isopods in mesic cage.  They may or may not live.  They need some humidity, I have 20 in different cages of scorps and T's and have only had 1 isopod death so far from unknown causes.  But if you are keeping dry xeric tank, they probably won't make it.   

2. Substate-if your substrate is dirt from your back yard, it will have tons of bugs, fungus, and micro organisms.  You should buy substrate from pet/gardening store that looks to be clean and good quality.  I use shredded coconut husk that can be bought in bricks at gardening stores for less than $3. It is fairly sterile and I haven't had any problems with it yet.  You can also steralize your own substrate, but you will have to research that yourself.

3. Clean up food leftovers ASAP.

4. Let things dry out really good for a day or two before misting again.  (a lot of problem organisms require humidity.)

5. Keep an ICU or Temporary home ready and available.  IF you see something you don't like going on in there, or its just been a while, move them out and clean cage completely, then rehouse. 

6. IF you decide to add more to your colony, it would be a good idea to keep them in their own container for a week or two (anyone help??) to make sure they didn't come with hitchhikers.  After a week or two, and a examination, you are clear for takeoff and you can throw them in with the others.  

Hope this is helpful.  And don't forget to read other stuff from other people, here and on other websites.  I would bet that even most "scorpionologist" don't know everything about every species.... So double check everything!

Peace, Ryan


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

so the website says the xeric forms are darker and the mesic forms are lighter and brighter and are found in more humid areas, yet you say the mesic are darker, so this must mean xeric are darker?
so what if my 3 morphs are all different but i want them to be in the same cage, i also im going to make it 90 degrees, so if i have lets say 2 xeric and 1 mesic could the extra heat kill the mesic? how do i keep all together like that. also deal with the isopods is it is hard to buy them online and i dont feed wild caught prey to any of my invertebrates


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*Don't worry*

I can show you pictures and tell you where different morphs were collected, by me and my girlfriend.  The lighter ones are from the desert.  At least comparing everyone I have found from Austin to almost Big Bend.  

They will probably be all the same morph.  If they are not, I wouldn't worry.   I checked weather channel for you and one of my spots in chihuahuan desert was 63% humidity this morning.  It gets wet in the desert, and it dries to a crisp here in austin sometimes.  It has been 100*F here in austin for last week.  They just stay under rock in shade all day and come out at sunset.
Oh, and it either freezes or gets close to it in the desert as well,..
So while they both MIGHT prefer a little different humidity, in nature, both morphs will experience the same conditions for parts of the year at least.  So I think they would both be just fine.  Don't Worry be happy now, ooooooo
:O)   Ryan





BishopiMaster said:


> so the website says the xeric forms are darker and the mesic forms are lighter and brighter and are found in more humid areas, yet you say the mesic are darker, so this must mean xeric are darker?
> so what if my 3 morphs are all different but i want them to be in the same cage, i also im going to make it 90 degrees, so if i have lets say 2 xeric and 1 mesic could the extra heat kill the mesic? how do i keep all together like that. also deal with the isopods is it is hard to buy them online and i dont feed wild caught prey to any of my invertebrates


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

I just found and read my book "Scorpions FROM THE EXPERTS AT ADVANCED VIVARIUM SYSTEMS by Jerry G. Walls.
never heard of them but this book has a lot of knowledge.
Well anyway here where i live it is about 70 degrees outside maybe dropping to 67 indoors and sometimes at night it gets very cold here usually 55 degrees to 45 at night.
 it says most scorpions should be kept at 75 to 86 degrees during the day and dropping a few degrees at night, i dont know how  much a few is but i am trying to replicate the natural environment and it could be stressful to go from 86 to 45, i guess i could just switch the bulb to red every night or maybe there is a device to lower the bulbs temperature a few degrees.
it says to use a heavy duty appliance timer to turn heat lamps on and off giving the scorpion a warm day of 14 hours and a cooler night of ten hours, but i was thinking to just use a timed dimmer
as for humidity it says to keep the bark scorpions at 50-55% and nothing below 50. as for substrate it says to keep them at a 50/50 mix of potting soil and sand and some corkbark and rocks for hiding, this combines 2 elements from the xeric and mesic forms habitats into one so i think it would be ideal. it also says to gutload the feeders a few hours before with some calcium supplement powder and some vegetables so i will start doing that as well.
as for the potting soil a lot of them have special chemicals to help plants grow and i dont want that, so if anybody can point me to a good brand thatd be great as well.
thanks for all information again keep em coming, i am learning a lot.


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## alexi (Jun 23, 2009)

BishopiMaster said:


> I just found and read my book "Scorpions FROM THE EXPERTS AT ADVANCED VIVARIUM SYSTEMS by Jerry G. Walls.
> never heard of them but this book has a lot of knowledge.
> Well anyway here where i live it is about 70 degrees outside maybe dropping to 67 indoors and sometimes at night it gets very cold here usually 55 degrees to 45 at night.
> it says most scorpions should be kept at 75 to 86 degrees during the day and dropping a few degrees at night, i dont know how  much a few is but i am trying to replicate the natural environment and it could be stressful to go from 86 to 45, i guess i could just switch the bulb to red every night or maybe there is a device to lower the bulbs temperature a few degrees.
> ...


I'm about 90% sure that gutloading feeders with calcium is unnecessary at best, harmful at worst.  Gutloading in general is good, but arachnids don't use calcium, and there are rumors that high calcium diet in some arachnids causes problems.  It's unsubstantiated that it causes problems, but I'm pretty sure it's accepted as fact that it's unnecessary.  Correct me if I'm wrong....

Gutloading with veggies and things I'm sure is all well and good, but I don't think so for calcium supplement.  By the way, I've never gutloaded my feeders and haven't really seen any reason too... does anyone know what happens to your scorp if you don't?  Obviously it will miss out on the contents of whatever you load into the things gut, but does anyone know what the ACTUAL harmful effects are?  Will your scorp not grow as big/fast, or will it just be sluggish, or will it have some other kind of problem?


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*Scorpions by Jerry G. Walls*

There are some things in there that a lot of people on here have told me were wrong, I will have more time later if you want examples, or you could look in my postings for it and you might find an example.  (sorry, really busy, just taking packing break.)  

As far as temps go, if you can handle it, barks can too.  Remember though, greenhouse effect in cage from lights if you have them close,have enough venting etc.etc.....
It would handle 55 no problems, I think 45 would be fine for a while too.  but I would recommend room temperature.  
They can handle below 50% humidity, and they do often.  Both forms.  
I would have a spot (underneath a rock or cork) where there is 50%, but you only really need that in a "burrow" area.  50% is fine, but they aren't going to die if you leave for the weekend and the surface dries out and air humidity drops to 35%,25%.  On a dry day, their air is dryer than you would think.  If you let it get really dry though, they may "burrow" more.  If you have mom/babies, I would keep it at 50%ish, but otherwise, it isn't a huge deal as long as it's 50% under the bark, rock etc...

If you want to know what is in your potting soil, and you want to use that, I would go to websites and read.  Then read about the ingredients list and how each effects invertrabates and Scorps.  Really, if you don't know much about soil, I wouldn't use it.  There are too many (even organic) additives that will cause problems for your scorp, tank maitence, pests, or just over all look due to perlite floating in your cage.  I would use coco or even peat first.  You won't be dissapointed.  And you can spend less than buying a 10 lb bag of junk dirt from walmart.  Be careful with potting soil!!!!





BishopiMaster said:


> I just found and read my book "Scorpions FROM THE EXPERTS AT ADVANCED VIVARIUM SYSTEMS by Jerry G. Walls.
> never heard of them but this book has a lot of knowledge.
> Well anyway here where i live it is about 70 degrees outside maybe dropping to 67 indoors and sometimes at night it gets very cold here usually 55 degrees to 45 at night.
> it says most scorpions should be kept at 75 to 86 degrees during the day and dropping a few degrees at night, i dont know how  much a few is but i am trying to replicate the natural environment and it could be stressful to go from 86 to 45, i guess i could just switch the bulb to red every night or maybe there is a device to lower the bulbs temperature a few degrees.
> ...


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

You think you could tell me whats wrong in my care plan and ill switch it up, like ill use 50/50 sand and shredded coconut husk, what about dropping a few degrees and dimming the light, that sounds like something that would happen in theyre local habitat, perhaps i will just check texas weather and replicate that.


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*about the author*

Open up your book ( I have it in front of me  :O)  )   and read the about the author on the very last page of the book.  Jerry Walls is probably really really smart.  He has written over 400 publications, for all sorts of wildlife.  Right now, he apparently likes to collect dead crustacaens and herps for study......
I am with C. vittatus about 24/7 either outside or at home.....
I believe he has good general knowledge, and it has some great info in book, but I wouldn't take it as a bible.  It is a small book written for people getting their first scorpion that doesn't have acess to arachnoboards.  I would trust what you read and hear on this website more personally.  And it's not that his temp range is wrong, it's just a little narrow when you have time to talk about details.  It is good range for people not on here that don't think about heat from lamps etc, or it's just to be safe, I don't really know.  But either way,...

Better than a lamp would be a 10$ heating pad from drug/dollar store.  Just don't put it directly underneath the cage as they can get cooked if they get to close apparently.  (I am not sure of this personally, but I wouldn't risk it regardless.)     

Peace, Ryan


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## Warren Bautista (Jun 23, 2009)

:clap: :clap:


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

well problem with the heat mat is that in the scorpions natural habitat they burrow to escape the heat, so the hotter it is the further they burrow, so with a heat mat they are burrowing towards the heat source, which is unnatural, also do you think you could wrap up everything you told me and write a detailed caresheet on this species?


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

ok so let me wrap this up

Cage Dimensions 12x12x12
Scorpion species: Centruroides vittatus
Substrate 50/50 Sand and Shredded Coconut Husk
Hides are Cork bark leaned against glass 45 degrees and a few rocks and a cave.
Temperature: 75-86 at day dropping a few degrees at night, how much i am unsure of.
Heating is just a light fixture with a light at day and red light at nightm unsure of which bulbs to get i have the exo terra compact light fixture.
Light will be dimmed according to the weather throughout the day, or if someone could point me to a timed one that would be great.
Humidity: 50% mist lightly every week and allow to dry out completely.
always provide water dish.
Feeding: Feed once every week changing the menu each week, ( more less?) Gutload feeders 3 hours before given. Remove any Uneaten prey 24 hours after it has been given( or however long i need to wait?)
never feed wild caught prey
Maintenance: Clean cage once every 2 months ( more less?)

tell me anything that i should change please i am keeping 3 of them


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*Wrap up.*

Secure 45* cork bark.  I would just bury it with substrate and compact around it personally.  But what you don't want is when they all pile up on top of it at night for it to fall on one.  It is light stuff though, so it won't take a lot to secure.  

As far as drying out completely, let me add this.  There is generally a little moisture in my cage even when I "let it dry out completely".   I would really only let it get dusty dry if I was worried about mold, mites, etc.  Otherwise, I mainly just want the top inch or two of substrate to dry out.  Most of the molds, pest, etc that we are worried about won't live below that and it does allow them to "burrow" a little bit to find a little humidity.  It's not life or death though.  Just wanted to clarify that.  There is usually some moisture in my substrate, at least deep in it, almost all the time.  (just like in nature, even for the xerics!)  

If you can with your light, point it at only part of your cage if possible, you could create a teperature gradient like that.  That way, if they are cold, they can get under the light.   If they are hot, they hide under a bark or rock.  
I would also go with a red light all the time unless they are super expensive.  The scorps don't like light, and your vittatus won't either.  The scorpions you have that would normally (indoors in low light), often stay on top of cork, will instead, seek shelter from the "blazing sun" like they do in nature.  

One option you have with heating pad would be to put it under the shelf that is holding the scorpions.  Start with low temp and see how it goes.  I do that with my emps.  It helps bring up the temp a few degrees but the emps are 2 inches of crushed gravel and 6 inches of air from contact.   Another option would work if you are using a background in your cage.  You could fix it to back wall, again on low heat at first.  If you do it on one side of back wall, you again are creating gradients, which is GOOD.

And I would like to again reitterate a earlier posters comments on gut loading.  It may or may not be Good and healthy, or bad and harmful.  There doesn't seem to be any consensus that I have seen yet anyway.
A good happy medium would be to gut load only 1 or 2 times a month. 
Really though, a decent diet for your feeders should be fine.  

Other than that, sounds good to me.  Your vittatus are going to be well treated I am sure.  And they are going to give you a show too!  They really are awesome scorpions.  Enjoy them!   Peace, Ryan

This is my photobucket album with a few shots of different spots I have collected vittatus and other sp.. If you look at my albums, you will see at least two of my morphs.  The mothers are all xeric so far and are under vittlivebirth as some of them are a series I took as it was happening.  
There are other sp as well, all taken with 6mp point and shoot.  







BishopiMaster said:


> ok so let me wrap this up
> 
> Cage Dimensions 12x12x12
> Scorpion species: Centruroides vittatus
> ...


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*OOPS< photos*

http://s619.photobucket.com/albums/tt279/Nomadinexile/Nomadinexile/


there it is.....


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

okay so 2 more questions and again i really do appreciate all the help, so you said that i could create a temperature gradient by focusing the light on one part of the enclosure, well i dont think i can do that, should i buy a dimmer? i have a temperate controller, i am just looking for another way to make a temperate  gradient like you said.

and as for humidity misting lightly once a week? how do i know when to mist again or whether or not there is still moisture down in the substrate?
how do i get a good humidity

and that should be it, im always very detailed with my setups


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## alexi (Jun 23, 2009)

BishopiMaster said:


> im always very detailed with my setups


haha no kidding.  Not to discourage you from providing a good environment for them, but I don't think you need to worry _quite_ so much.  They like being a bit warmer than people, but as long as you don't turn his tank into an oven he should be ok...


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*s*

You could create a shady spot by proping up an extra piece of bark vertically blocking half the light.  The "sun spot" of the bark would be really warm, but in the shade behind it, cooler.  

I don't like dimmers.  They aren't good for bulbs lifespans from what I have read.  Better just to get the right size.  

and like alexi said, don't worry too much.  You have put a lot of thought into it, and congrats for that, but if you can keep alive any arachnids, you can keep these really happy.  Cheers, ryan




BishopiMaster said:


> okay so 2 more questions and again i really do appreciate all the help, so you said that i could create a temperature gradient by focusing the light on one part of the enclosure, well i dont think i can do that, should i buy a dimmer? i have a temperate controller, i am just looking for another way to make a temperate  gradient like you said.
> 
> and as for humidity misting lightly once a week? how do i know when to mist again or whether or not there is still moisture down in the substrate?
> how do i get a good humidity
> ...


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

as for the humidity?  so i get it i make a wall of cork bark which will be really hot and the outside but behind it it will be cooler and a chance to escape the heat


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*you will see humidity*

on side of glass/plastic, where the light is.  hot, moist substrate condenses water on the container.  This is normal and not to be worried about.  But I vary it.  I will see that one or two days a week maybe.  Usually after I mist good.  After I don't see any for a couple of days, I will stick my  finger in the substrate where there are no barks (they generally aren't going to just run up and tag you if you aren't real close, I do this all the time.)  Stick your finger in it.  Is it dry 1"+ down?  Yes?  Mist again. OR mist a little and accidentally (me) over pour water dish.  :O)   No biggie though remember.  Don't hurt yourself with worry.  If you are close, they will thrive.  Just don't cook em with a light in an enclosed tank with little ventilation like someone here in town did this week with a pretty t that I heard about.  Check every half hour with decent thermometer if gets close to hot.  Otherwise, have fun.  Ryan


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## Aztek (Jun 23, 2009)

Holy....
You guys are taking this scorpion thing a little bit TOO seriously.


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## Nomadinexile (Jun 23, 2009)

*Yeah, well, could be worse!*

Yeah, it may seem a bit much, but some people, myself included, think about little details on the time.  I miss a lot, and I don't think I am super smart or anything, but I question all this stuff all day long with my own set-ups.  And what am I supposed to do when black light hunting?  I think about scorpions, and where they live, and where I might find them, and how tonight's weather may be effecting things...I also read a lot and figure why not?  If me and this guy spend half our day trying to recreate temperature gradients in his 3 C. vittatus tank, so what?   There are a lot worse things we could be doing.  I also made a point of trying to play down the importance of dialed in details.
And at least this discussion has happened and is now on record.  Maybe we won't have to do it again for a while!  But I wouldn't count on it!  :razz: 

Ryan


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

Thanks for everything i really appreciate it, my 3 c. vittatus i feel will do very well and hopefully live a very long time, may be even breed, then i am not sure what to do but ill cross that bridge when i come to it.
I think maybe we should make this thread a sticky, it has a lot of good detailed information


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## BishopiMaster (Jun 23, 2009)

will post pics in a couple months


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