# Preserving a dead spider.



## SkyeSpider (Aug 28, 2002)

What's the best method to preserve a dead spider to be mounted? I want to make sure I do this right.

-Bryan


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## Code Monkey (Aug 28, 2002)

I guess that would depend on how realistic a mount you want. I've read of people having really good results with opening up the abdomen from the bottom and removing the guts and then stuffing with cotton balls, positioning the body, and then allowing it to dry.

If you don't move quickly, Ts are so massive they begin to decay soon after death and they STINK horribly.

I'd like to be more help but the only ones I ever kept I just dried without stuffing the abdomen and they didn't look all that great, the others had the unceremonious burial in the trash can. A living T is a beautiful thing, a dead T is a dead, potentially stinky bug.


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## SkyeSpider (Aug 28, 2002)

Damn. That's not going to work then. I was hoping to mount the first tarantula I ever caught from the wild (photo in the thread "Shhh... I'm hunting B. vagans"). She was so pretty.

-Bryan


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## Immortal_sin (Aug 28, 2002)

at the ATS conference, Rhys did a demonstration on preserving them in resin. However, it will cost a bit for the right materials, and it was alot of trial and error for him at first. You might want to freeze her, then email Rhys and ask him for the steps to do it. If it's done right, it looks awesome
Holley


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## bruno56 (May 19, 2017)

SkyeSpider said:


> What's the best method to preserve a dead spider to be mounted? I want to make sure I do this right.
> 
> -Bryan


acetone for 24 hrs


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## Arachnomaniac19 (May 19, 2017)

Make an incision on the underside of the abdomen and remove all organs and loose tissue there. Once you're done, stuff it with cotton balls until you have the desired look.
Once you're finished there, remove the sternum and pull out all of the organs from the cephalothorax. You should also be able to get some or all of the flesh from the coxa to the femur (everything else should be fine left inside). After that put cotton balls (you might have to tear them apart) into the cephalothorax. You shouldn't have to worry about the legs since the area is so small and putting cotton balls in there might wreck the specimen. After that you're good to go and mount the spider!
I'd also recommend using a face mask and googles while working with them just because of the uritcating hairs. Entomology pins or sowing pins might be useful in putting the spider in the position you want as it dries out.
If you get lost there are a few videos on YouTube that explain it fairly well.

Reactions: Like 1


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## houston (May 19, 2017)

This thread is from 2002, folks-- I'm adding info for future users, but I'm sure the OP won't get much use 15 years later haha.

Try this video! It's a bit long but its got the best info and visuals of the mounting vids I've seen. This thread on taxinet is also a good resource for mounting "plump" bugs. If you want realistic poses, I'd read up on pinning true spiders and translate it into a bigger size. The poses might be a bit different but the technique is what's important. Like Arachnomaniac said, you don't need to stuff the legs. They don't have enough "meat" to rot-- they desiccate.

I would very liberally use rubbing alcohol, as well. It's a cheap and easy preservative, since it displaces the water and then evaporates. It also sanitizes the skin, keeping it from rotting/ slipping (and smelling!). Acetone tends to be a bit more strong smelling, as well as more expensive-- 32 oz of isopropyl alcohol costs 1.99$ at your local pharmacy.

I personally wouldn't attempt to do resin casting, especially not on such a big spider-- the heat from the chemical reaction cooks it, and it can rot within the resin block which is a mess in every sense of the word. If you want it done in this way, I'd ask around for someone who's done it before and has the equipment and experience to do it optimally.

Reactions: Like 1


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## darkness975 (May 20, 2017)

houston said:


> This thread is from 2002, folks-- I'm adding info for future users, but I'm sure the OP won't get much use 15 years later haha.
> 
> Try this video! It's a bit long but its got the best info and visuals of the mounting vids I've seen. This thread on taxinet is also a good resource for mounting "plump" bugs. If you want realistic poses, I'd read up on pinning true spiders and translate it into a bigger size. The poses might be a bit different but the technique is what's important. Like Arachnomaniac said, you don't need to stuff the legs. They don't have enough "meat" to rot-- they desiccate.
> 
> ...


Actually, @SkyeSpider recently came back to the Forum, so perhaps this information will prove useful despite the age of the original post.


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## Bug Bane (May 22, 2018)

What about for smaller spiders like spiny orb weavers. Their colors are nice and bright, yet fade over time, and they’re really small to try to stuff with pieces of cotton balls.


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## Greasylake (May 22, 2018)

Bug Bane said:


> What about for smaller spiders like spiny orb weavers. Their colors are nice and bright, yet fade over time, and they’re really small to try to stuff with pieces of cotton balls.


An airtight container filled with acetone works best according to my biology teacher (who used to work in a lab). According to her the really high concentration stuff, 90%+, keeps the specimen from losing color over time, while other alcohols will bleach the colors and they'll fade after a while.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## MrsHaas (May 22, 2018)

SkyeSpider said:


> What's the best method to preserve a dead spider to be mounted? I want to make sure I do this right.
> 
> -Bryan


I do this a lot, DM me and I’ll tell you my process
(Sorry for the crap pic, I took it w my phone)

Reactions: Like 1


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## MrsHaas (May 22, 2018)




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## AngelDeVille (May 22, 2018)

Viking funeral for my babies!

I have seen a few videos on the use of resin, and it really seems quite easy once you get the hang of it.




I never did understand the twisted undies over old threads, useful information, is still useful over time.

Reactions: Like 3 | Funny 1


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## MrsHaas (May 22, 2018)

@AngelDeVille sometimes I just like to wear my panties in a bunch for fun!    They fit better that way looool

Reactions: Winner 1


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## MrsHaas (May 22, 2018)

@AngelDeVille xoxo


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## AngelDeVille (May 22, 2018)

MrsHaas said:


> @AngelDeVille sometimes I just like to wear my panties in a bunch for fun!    They fit better that way looool


Buy them at the second hand store, and you can wear other peeples twisted undies for even more fun!

That itch isn't ultricating hairs....


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## MrsHaas (May 22, 2018)

AngelDeVille said:


> Buy them at the second hand store, and you can wear other peeples twisted undies for even more fun!
> 
> That itch isn't ultricating hairs....


 Haha good advice... but
I prefer the stirmi thongs that @TimBenzedrine makes

Reactions: Agree 1


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## MrsHaas (May 22, 2018)

@Tim Benzedrine (oops there’s a space)


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## Paul1126 (May 23, 2018)

AngelDeVille said:


> Viking funeral for my babies!
> 
> I have seen a few videos on the use of resin, and it really seems quite easy once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


I preserved my only dead tarantula in rubbing alcohol and display it on my bookcase.
It doesn't go down well with the ladies.


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## Bug Bane (May 23, 2018)

AngelDeVille said:


> Viking funeral for my babies!
> 
> I have seen a few videos on the use of resin, and it really seems quite easy once you get the hang of it.
> 
> View attachment 276114


In know quite a few people who would burn the boat they were on if they saw a tarantula on it

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1


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## Tim Benzedrine (May 24, 2018)

MrsHaas said:


> Haha good advice... but
> I prefer the stirmi thongs that @TimBenzedrine makes


I have to admit though that I should have put more thought into the banana hammocks I made.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## sschind (May 24, 2018)

What about freezing or more specifically freeze drying.  I know when most things are freeze dried they are done at super low temps very quickly but a few year back I had a few Deroplatys lobata (dead leaf mantids) pass away and I froze them for about 6 months.  After that I took them out and they not only held their shape but did not decay or smell at all.  I hide them in containers of dead oak leaves and challenge the kids at my shows to find them.  I have a nice big female G. pulchripes in my freezer all pinned out right now.  She has been in there for a few years now so if it is going to work it should be safe but I don't want to risk it until I have a plan for her.  She is holding place next to my Vietnamese centipede and giant African millipede among others.  Yes my freezer would freak out most people.  I have more dead animals than I have food, well people food anyway.  Bugs, frozen rodents, the occasional passed away lizard or frog.  My 3.5 foot savanna monitor that passed away from a tumor and my nephews pet rabbit that died 7 or 8  years ago (I'm waiting in case he wants to bury it but he is almost 16 now so he has probably forgotten about it)

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## Greasylake (May 25, 2018)

sschind said:


> What about freezing or more specifically freeze drying.  I know when most things are freeze dried they are done at super low temps very quickly but a few year back I had a few Deroplatys lobata (dead leaf mantids) pass away and I froze them for about 6 months.  After that I took them out and they not only held their shape but did not decay or smell at all.  I hide them in containers of dead oak leaves and challenge the kids at my shows to find them.  I have a nice big female G. pulchripes in my freezer all pinned out right now.  She has been in there for a few years now so if it is going to work it should be safe but I don't want to risk it until I have a plan for her.  She is holding place next to my Vietnamese centipede and giant African millipede among others.  Yes my freezer would freak out most people.  I have more dead animals than I have food, well people food anyway.  Bugs, frozen rodents, the occasional passed away lizard or frog.  My 3.5 foot savanna monitor that passed away from a tumor and my nephews pet rabbit that died 7 or 8  years ago (I'm waiting in case he wants to bury it but he is almost 16 now so he has probably forgotten about it)


That takes much longer than alcohol though, the biggest drawback for that is time, and whether other people would be okay with dead animals next to tomorrows dinner.

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## sschind (May 25, 2018)

Greasylake said:


> That takes much longer than alcohol though, the biggest drawback for that is time, and whether other people would be okay with dead animals next to tomorrows dinner.



I get that, for me I'm not really in a hurry so I have time.  

There is also the hand sanitizer method which involves first purging all the moisture usually using alcohol then suspending the item in a sealed vial of jar of a certain type of hand sanitizer.  Supposedly the item will "float" suspended in the jar for a good length of time rather than settle.  It works best for smaller animals though as it is crucial to get all the water out.


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## Bug Bane (May 25, 2018)

sschind said:


> What about freezing or more specifically freeze drying.  I know when most things are freeze dried they are done at super low temps very quickly but a few year back I had a few Deroplatys lobata (dead leaf mantids) pass away and I froze them for about 6 months.  After that I took them out and they not only held their shape but did not decay or smell at all.  I hide them in containers of dead oak leaves and challenge the kids at my shows to find them.  I have a nice big female G. pulchripes in my freezer all pinned out right now.  She has been in there for a few years now so if it is going to work it should be safe but I don't want to risk it until I have a plan for her.  She is holding place next to my Vietnamese centipede and giant African millipede among others.  Yes my freezer would freak out most people.  I have more dead animals than I have food, well people food anyway.  Bugs, frozen rodents, the occasional passed away lizard or frog.


My freezer is the same way! I have a turtle that passed and an alligator gar head for the skull and of course the rest are bugs.


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## MrsHaas (May 25, 2018)

sschind said:


> What about freezing or more specifically freeze drying.  I know when most things are freeze dried they are done at super low temps very quickly but a few year back I had a few Deroplatys lobata (dead leaf mantids) pass away and I froze them for about 6 months.  After that I took them out and they not only held their shape but did not decay or smell at all.  I hide them in containers of dead oak leaves and challenge the kids at my shows to find them.  I have a nice big female G. pulchripes in my freezer all pinned out right now.  She has been in there for a few years now so if it is going to work it should be safe but I don't want to risk it until I have a plan for her.  She is holding place next to my Vietnamese centipede and giant African millipede among others.  Yes my freezer would freak out most people.  I have more dead animals than I have food, well people food anyway.  Bugs, frozen rodents, the occasional passed away lizard or frog.  My 3.5 foot savanna monitor that passed away from a tumor and my nephews pet rabbit that died 7 or 8  years ago (I'm waiting in case he wants to bury it but he is almost 16 now so he has probably forgotten about it)


I freeze dry


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## Greasylake (May 25, 2018)

sschind said:


> I get that, for me I'm not really in a hurry so I have time.
> 
> There is also the hand sanitizer method which involves first purging all the moisture usually using alcohol then suspending the item in a sealed vial of jar of a certain type of hand sanitizer.  Supposedly the item will "float" suspended in the jar for a good length of time rather than settle.  It works best for smaller animals though as it is crucial to get all the water out.


Hand sanitizer and other alcohols will bleach the colors over the time. According to my old biology teacher who worked in a lab for some time and made hundreds of wet specimens, acetone is the way to go. It preserves the colors better than anything else and it doesn't have bubbles like hand sanitizer, but you need to get the really strong stuff that they use in nail salons.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## sschind (May 26, 2018)

Greasylake said:


> Hand sanitizer and other alcohols will bleach the colors over the time. According to my old biology teacher who worked in a lab for some time and made hundreds of wet specimens, acetone is the way to go. It preserves the colors better than anything else and it doesn't have bubbles like hand sanitizer, but you need to get the really strong stuff that they use in nail salons.


Good to know.  I think the big appeal of the hand sanitzer method is that the specimen stays suspended in the vial rather than settling to the bottom as I think it would in a less viscous liquid.

I'm wondering if it would work with my D. diadema molts.  They always seem to get broken up eventually when I just pin them no matter how much care I take.


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## sschind (May 26, 2018)

MrsHaas said:


> I freeze dry


Do you just stick them in the freezer like I do or do you use something with lower temps that may be faster (Dry Ice? Liquid Nitrogen?)


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## Greasylake (May 26, 2018)

sschind said:


> Good to know.  I think the big appeal of the hand sanitzer method is that the specimen stays suspended in the vial rather than settling to the bottom as I think it would in a less viscous liquid.
> 
> I'm wondering if it would work with my D. diadema molts.  They always seem to get broken up eventually when I just pin them no matter how much care I take.


If you wanted to suspended it maybe you could glue a toothpick to the bottom of the container and secure the molt to it before adding the alcohol? That would keep it suspended and it could look pretty nice.


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## Bug Bane (May 26, 2018)

sschind said:


> Good to know.  I think the big appeal of the hand sanitzer method is that the specimen stays suspended in the vial rather than settling to the bottom as I think it would in a less viscous liquid.
> 
> I'm wondering if it would work with my D. diadema molts.  They always seem to get broken up eventually when I just pin them no matter how much care I take.


You could maybe even try carefully using epoxy resin too. I’ve never tried to before personally. Since you have a live specimen you have a replenished supply to experiment with.


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## Greasylake (May 26, 2018)

Bug Bane said:


> You could maybe even try carefully using epoxy resin too. I’ve never tried to before personally. Since you have a live specimen you have a replenished supply to experiment with.


I tried epoxy resin with a flower once. You have to be really careful not to get any bubbles and not to get it anywhere you don't want it, like your table, because it won't come off. It also smells really strong so if you're going to use it make sure you're outside. I dont know what it would do to a animal, but it turned a pink flower white after only a few hours.


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## Bug Bane (May 26, 2018)

Greasylake said:


> I tried epoxy resin with a flower once. You have to be really careful not to get any bubbles and not to get it anywhere you don't want it, like your table, because it won't come off. It also smells really strong so if you're going to use it make sure you're outside. I dont know what it would do to a animal, but it turned a pink flower white after only a few hours.


I didn’t know it discolored things.


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## Greasylake (May 26, 2018)

Bug Bane said:


> I didn’t know it discolored things.


I'm not sure it's supposed to, but that's what it did to the flower.


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## Bug Bane (May 26, 2018)

Greasylake said:


> I'm not sure it's supposed to, but that's what it did to the flower.


Did you dry the flower first?


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## Greasylake (May 26, 2018)

Bug Bane said:


> Did you dry the flower first?


No I didnt. I didnt think that would make a difference but it might be worth a shot.


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## Bug Bane (May 26, 2018)

Greasylake said:


> No I didnt. I didnt think that would make a difference but it might be worth a shot.


It might be. It might turn white when it dries anyway, that might just be it’s dead color. Only one way to find out is to try.


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## sschind (May 27, 2018)

Greasylake said:


> I tried epoxy resin with a flower once. You have to be really careful not to get any bubbles and not to get it anywhere you don't want it, like your table, because it won't come off. It also smells really strong so if you're going to use it make sure you're outside. I dont know what it would do to a animal, but it turned a pink flower white after only a few hours.



Those are good reasons why I never went the resin route.  Those who can do it well maker some pretty cool things but I'm not sure I would have the patience.  With my molts I was thinking maybe just some non yellowing lacquer or something since they are dry and pretty thin I wouldn't have to make it so deep.  

Like Bane says I have a replenishing supply so if I ruin a few no big deal


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## Bug Bane (May 27, 2018)

sschind said:


> Those are good reasons why I never went the resin route.  Those who can do it well maker some pretty cool things but I'm not sure I would have the patience.  With my molts I was thinking maybe just some non yellowing lacquer or something since they are dry and pretty thin I wouldn't have to make it so deep.
> 
> Like Bane says I have a replenishing supply so if I ruin a few no big deal


Do you think if you could somehow stuff it with cotton or something like that it would be firmer and easier to work with? Or is it to fragile to try? If you start experimenting you might want to get another spider so you get motlings twice as fast


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## Sicarius1 (May 28, 2018)

Viking funeral all the way!


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## SkyeSpider (May 28, 2018)

Wow! I did not expect to see a thread I started 16 years ago start up again. O_O

After going to school and studying entomology, all my spiders I want to keep are preserved in ethyl alcohol (70%). They don't dry well and tend to just rot otherwise. Same goes for any arachnids, really. The dry preservation only seems to work with smaller arthropods.


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## Bug Bane (May 28, 2018)

SkyeSpider said:


> Wow! I did not expect to see a thread I started 16 years ago start up again. O_O
> 
> After going to school and studying entomology, all my spiders I want to keep are preserved in ethyl alcohol (70%). They don't dry well and tend to just rot otherwise. Same goes for any arachnids, really. The dry preservation only seems to work with smaller arthropods.


I’m glad I could start it up again :j
I’ve done dry preservation with one of my scorpions before. It didn't rot and dried in the position I wanted. The fading isn’t really that bad either, maybe a slight discoloration. But that’s only one. I’ve done grasshoppers plenty and some rot on the spread board while others are fine, which confuses and annoys me plenty.


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## MrsHaas (Jun 7, 2018)

sschind said:


> Do you just stick them in the freezer like I do or do you use something with lower temps that may be faster (Dry Ice? Liquid Nitrogen?)


Are you stick them in the freezer for about four months. That usually freeze dries all of the insights into sort of a sick call particle things. So that when you defrost them the insides also dry out and decomposition doesn’t become an issue.  Are you stick them in the freezer for about four months. That usually freeze dries all of the insides into sort of basic call particle things. So that when you defrost them the insides also dry out and decomposition doesn’t become an issue.  But you have to make sure you thoroughly dry them out -  like stick them frozen under a bright, hot light… Anything from a heat lamp to a regular house hold lamp. Though a heat lamp I think would probably dry it out a lot faster I just don’t have one.  You will notice that water will begin to pool on top of the Carapace  as it thaws and once it is malleable enough you can position it the way you want, and then continue to dry it out under the lamp for the next two or three hours depending on size.   You can use a Q-tip to absorb the fluid that leaked from the carcass and  Once the liquid stops draining out of the Carapace and the abdomen shrivels up, you can Turn off the lamp, leave them there to dry for a short time some more. And then you can go about canning/gluing the carcass to whatever it is you’re going to use for your backing in the shadowbox.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## MrsHaas (Jun 7, 2018)

Bug Bane said:


> I’m glad I could start it up again :j
> I’ve done dry preservation with one of my scorpions before. It didn't rot and dried in the position I wanted. The fading isn’t really that bad either, maybe a slight discoloration. But that’s only one. I’ve done grasshoppers plenty and some rot on the spread board while others are fine, which confuses and annoys me plenty.


I think in like 2012 when I first joined her active words I made a post about preserving a dead tarantula and displaying it in a shadowbox. It had step-by-step pictures and written directions. I don’t know if it is still part of the database on Arachnoboards. Especially after all the changes that have been made in the past years. But you could always use the search button and put my user name in and see if something pops up.  However personally, I have zero idea how to preserve a tarantula in a liquid such as alcohol. So if that’s what you want to do I’m sure there are tons of folks on this site that could give you a hand and some ideas. Good luck.


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## AphonopelmaTX (Jun 7, 2018)

MrsHaas said:


> However personally, I have zero idea how to preserve a tarantula in a liquid such as alcohol. So if that’s what you want to do I’m sure there are tons of folks on this site that could give you a hand and some ideas. Good luck.


Preserving tarantulas in alcohol is quite easy, but doing it the way the academic crowd does it can be costly to the amateur.  I will provide a quick outline below.

*Preservative*
Ethanol/ ethyl alcohol is the best preservative to use on arachnids.  For the amateur, ethanol can be bought in liquor stores as Everclear.  Everclear can come in two strengths: 75% and 95%.  You will need ethanol of 70% to 80% so if one can only find 95% it needs to be diluted to 70-80%.  I can only find Everclear in 95% APV in my area so I dilute to 80%.  Of course, if one is under the age of 21 or there are some state, county, or city restrictions on alcohol, preservation in this manner won't be possible.

*Specimen Jars*
I get all of my specimen jars for wet preservation from Carolina Biological.  They sell glass jars in 2 fluid ounce to 16 fluid ounce volumes.  I would recommend getting a set of each to accommodate a variety of different size tarantulas.  For the most part, a tarantula with a 3-4 inch legspan can be preserved in a 4 fl. oz. jar; larger tarantulas can be kept in 8 fl. oz. and above.  There is no standard when it comes to how large the jar is.  One just needs to use a jar just big enough for a dead tarantula to be completely submerged in alcohol.  Too big of a jar and you waste the expensive Everclear and the jars take up too much space.  For preserving just one or two dead tarantulas, one can use a standard canning jar from any hobby or grocery store.  Canning jars specifically need to be used since they have a seal of some kind on the lid.  If the canning jars used are the ones with the orange rubber gasket, one should keep in mind the rubber gasket will eventually dry out and will need to be replaced.  I learned that one the hard way before switching to proper specimen jars.

*Specimen Preparation*
No real preparation is needed.  I'm not going to go into the proper and humane way to kill tarantulas for alcohol preservation since I will assume no one here wants to do that.  Instead I will just note that for proper alcohol preservation, one really needs to put a dead tarantula in alcohol or the freezer as quickly as possible after death.  Too long and it will start to rot and smell. More on that later.  If I notice one of my tarantulas is on its way out and can't be revived, I go ahead and place it in the refrigerator for about 24 hours then the freezer for another 48 hours or more to make sure it is dead.  Some tarantulas can tolerate cold temperatures better than others so it is better to be sure it is dead before drowning it in alcohol.  Although if a tarantula is so far gone it can't move, killing it by drowning it in alcohol is the best way to go for preservation.  I just can't bring myself to do that.

*Other Notes/ Observations*
Alcohol preserved tarantulas do stink.  None of the arachnological guides on collecting and maintaining arachnid alcohol collections make note of this.  It smells like pure grain alcohol (the Everclear) and spoiled shellfish.  Just because it smells, doesn't mean your specimen is badly preserved.  The smell eventually gets weaker as time goes by but it will never go completely away.

It takes time to pickle a dead tarantula in alcohol.  For the first week or two a dead tarantula is placed into a jar of alcohol, the fluid will turn yellowish brown.  The alcohol will need to be replaced enough times for the alcohol to stay clear.  One will also notice various bits of tissue and excrement floating around in the alcohol as well.  All of this means the alcohol is doing its job of displacing the water in the tarantula's body.  The alcohol needs to be replaced during the process to keep that process going.  Otherwise you will have a smelly rotting tarantula sitting in a jar.  The bigger and fatter the tarantula, the worse it can be and the longer it takes to completely dehydrate.

Tarantulas will definitely lose their color when preserved in alcohol.  Tarantulas will usually start darkening and eventually turn black after time in alcohol.  Doesn't matter how brightly or dull colored they are.  Patterns tend to stay intact though.  For example, I have an adult female Poecilotheria regalis that has been in alcohol for years now and it still has it leg banding and "belly band".  The whites just aren't as bright and the coloration in general darkened and isn't as pretty.  One can still tell visually it is a Poecilotheria regalis though.  By contrast, I have adult male and female Euathlus species in alcohol and I can't tell them apart visually from the Aphonopelma species I also have in alcohol.

Labels are very important!  Since tarantulas lose their color, one will definitely forget what they have.  Since we are talking about preserving pet tarantulas, writing out the species you have, where it came from, when it died, gender, or any other information you want and putting that information into the jar is paramount.  One can't just use plain old paper and pen though.  Alcohol will dissolve ink and discolor plain paper.  For labels, you have to get a package of cotton resume paper and use a plain old pencil or India ink.  Alcohol will not dissolve or discolor these materials.  For my specimen labels, I use cotton resume paper and a regular number 2 pencil.

That's all I can think of for now.  If anyone is interested in knowing more about this process, feel free to PM me.

Reactions: Informative 3


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## Buznme2010 (Nov 12, 2020)

This how I preserved my spider
First I put in water overnight to make him moveable. 
I then positioned him the way I wanted him on the felt covered backing for the display case ( don't glue him down yet)
 I then put him in my food dehydrator and left him for 2 days.
I then glued him down to the board and it worked great and he looks great too.
 Here he is before I glued him in.
Its important to dry him on felt as it will hold the legs in place as he dries. Or he will shrivel up and the legs will fold in.
Good thing is if it don't look right just pop him back in the water over night and try again the next day.

Reactions: Thinking 1


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## Cheeka the Spooder (Nov 12, 2020)

Buznme2010 said:


> This how I preserved my spider
> First I put in water overnight to make him moveable.
> I then positioned him the way I wanted him on the felt covered backing for the display case ( don't glue him down yet)
> I then put him in my food dehydrator and left him for 2 days.
> ...


Bro that looks like a wolf spider... what type is it


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