# Tarantulas and display lighting



## xirxes (Aug 23, 2014)

So this is not an appeal to the T's most natural environment, but more an issue for display lighting.

I want to prominently display my T's so that can experience their best color when they are out. I have enclosures basically like tarantulacages.com for my group, and I plan to light them with cool white LED strips from ikea, one 6 led strip per enclosure.

I am planning on ~12 hours light a day timed, and if I don't see them enough, I may find a way to have a small heat source outside the enclosures to draw them on out.

What lighting have you all tried and liked? 

Is there any data on issues with LED vs fluorescent light affect on T's?

Any suggestions for how to see the T's more often?


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## cold blood (Aug 23, 2014)

The best lighting is a red light, leave it on at night when they're most active.   

I don't have any enclosures lit, I just give natural light from a window.  When I want a look, I use a small flashlight.

Reactions: Like 1


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## xirxes (Aug 23, 2014)

That's how they are now, one window shutters open to give natural indirect light, and I only ever use a red LED flashlight for viewing.

I will however want to artificially light these critters starting probably a year from now, when I move them into adult enclosures.


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## Oreo (Aug 23, 2014)

I imagine it shouldn't be an issue as long as the T has a good hide. I'd be interested in seeing your setups when you have them in place.


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## viper69 (Aug 23, 2014)

I'm going to tell you the dirty little secret about LED lights, particularly white LED lights. In the LED industry there is no standard of manufacturing or quality control to demonstrate what generates white light. That means, one batch of LEDs may be different than the next. So, some are good, some are terrible. Like my LED flashlight, it's supposed to be white light, but it isn't, I can see a bluish tint to it. When I compare how my Ts look at night w/the LED flashlight and a normal flashlight with a bulb, the color of my Ts is VERY different.

So I'm not saying don't use LED lights, I'm telling you, don't expect consistency, because there isn't any. I know this for a FACT because I know a person who works at an engineering company that makes light filters. They do not make light filters for LED lights for mass consumption because there is no guarantee of what wavelengths of light are being emitted from white LED lights.


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## sezra (Aug 23, 2014)

Bear in mind, T's generally dont like bright light, and because of that I'm not really a big fan of providing artificial light in my T's enclosures. I did try it once before though and found that it actually discouraged my T's from being as active as they would have been without it.

I keep all of my T's on a shelf which doesnt get much light at all and they are always active! The only exception is my OBT who spends 90% of her time in her burrow. The only time I ever see her is at night.

Who knows though, you may have some success. Just dont over do it. Provide your little guys with plenty of places to hide and keep us informed.


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## viper69 (Aug 23, 2014)

sezra said:


> Bear in mind, T's generally dont like bright light, and because of that I'm not really a big fan of providing artificial light in my T's enclosures. I did try it once before though and found that it actually discouraged my T's from being as active as they would have been without it.
> 
> I keep all of my T's on a shelf which doesnt get much light at all and they are always active! The only exception is my OBT who spends 90% of her time in her burrow. The only time I ever see her is at night.
> 
> Who knows though, you may have some success. Just dont over do it. Provide your little guys with plenty of places to hide and keep us informed.



The light you tried....was it moon glow light, the ones that are bluish...details please.


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## sezra (Aug 23, 2014)

viper69 said:


> The light you tried....was it moon glow light, the ones that are bluish...details please.


I was really new to the hobby and used white LED strip lights. I didnt over do it either, but I found that direct light into the enclosures made my T's shy. As I said in my previous post, my T's are now kept in an area of the room that doesnt get direct light and they are super active. I'm sure its subjective though, and results will differ, but for me personally, I'd rather keep my animals in slightly darker conditions because I get to see them more.


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## xirxes (Aug 23, 2014)

sezra said:


> I was really new to the hobby and used white LED strip lights. I didnt over do it either, but I found that direct light into the enclosures made my T's shy. As I said in my previous post, my T's are now kept in an area of the room that doesnt get direct light and they are super active. I'm sure its subjective though, and results will differ, but for me personally, I'd rather keep my animals in slightly darker conditions because I get to see them more.


I agree that in general T's will mill about and roam more with lower/ambient light only. I like that,unless molting or heavy premolt, my 4 T's are always out.

I have seen a well lit enclosure with communal P. ornatas all gathered out and in full glory with a simple, small heat source near the desired viewing area. To me , although not most pragmatic, is the best of both worlds.

---------- Post added 08-23-2014 at 11:49 PM ----------

Here is a test of the type of light that i will be using. It is a bit on the yellow side of the spectrum for my liking, but it was a great value. This is shown for brightness test over enclosures for my 2.5-3.5" slings.

[video=youtube;Syh18CUuJ_4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Syh18CUuJ_4[/video]

let me know what you think of brightness. each enclosure will most likely have 2 lights over it, at 4-6" elevated above the enclosure.

as a side note, does the C.cyaneopubescens top right look like he is about to flip and molt or what? Defensive towards cricket yesterday, no attack, and super lethargic today.


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## viper69 (Aug 24, 2014)

xirxes said:


> I agree that in general T's will mill about and roam more with lower/ambient light only. I like that,unless molting or heavy premolt, my 4 T's are always out.
> 
> I have seen a well lit enclosure with communal P. ornatas all gathered out and in full glory with a simple, small heat source near the desired viewing area. To me , although not most pragmatic, is the best of both worlds.
> 
> ...



The GBB in the top right on the bottom needs a rehouse. That's basically a prison for that size T. However, if you really think it's going to molt, I wouldn't move it at all.


As for the light, the brightness is fine for daylight, but not for dusk or nighttime.


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## xirxes (Aug 25, 2014)

viper69 said:


> The GBB in the top right on the bottom needs a rehouse. That's basically a prison for that size T. However, if you really think it's going to molt, I wouldn't move it at all.
> 
> 
> As for the light, the brightness is fine for daylight, but not for dusk or nighttime.


I'm all for rehousing, but this T has 3x legs pan in width and 2x leg span in height for enclosure. I am fairly sure that this is ideal for a terrestrial sling.

The only other housing I have for this T is it's adult enclosure, at 6"x12"x6". Will a 3" GBB sling/Juvie utilize this space?


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## vespers (Aug 25, 2014)

xirxes said:


> I'm all for rehousing, but this T has 3x legs pan in width and 2x leg span in height for enclosure. I am fairly sure that this is ideal for a terrestrial sling.
> 
> The only other housing I have for this T is it's adult enclosure, at 6"x12"x6". Will a 3" GBB sling/Juvie utilize this space?


So you're saying that GBB is currently in a 9 inch container in the video? Doubting it.

EDIT: A 6 x 12 enclosure should be ok for a 3 inch spider, but I wouldn't use an enclosure that small for an adult GBB (its too small).


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## cold blood (Aug 25, 2014)

xirxes said:


> The only other housing I have for this T is it's adult enclosure, at 6"x12"x6". Will a 3" GBB sling/Juvie utilize this space?


You bet it will.

Reactions: Like 1


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## xirxes (Aug 25, 2014)

Sounds good! 

New enclosure for the GBB, probably 5-8th of the month, following expected molt!


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## xirxes (Aug 25, 2014)

Well it was much more active than I imagined. Rehoused today: 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Pothos should grow well with weekly water owl overfill. Can't wait to see the webs begin!


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## pyro fiend (Aug 26, 2014)

xirxes said:


> Well it was much more active than I imagined. Rehoused today:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


iv been keeping pothos in my roseas and iv found its a lil better to have the potho in a pot under it as the subs too deep and soaks all up but also seeps deep in soil leaving potho lil dryer then youd like.. id say add a pot under it  i myself have to wait as my girls in premolt and cant stress her by moving entire enclosure arond my plants are getting too little water and dieing =\


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## vespers (Aug 26, 2014)

xirxes said:


> Well it was much more active than I imagined. Rehoused today:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


GBB's are a xeric species, and should be kept that way. Pothos are tropical, you won't find pothos or damp mosses in Chromatopelma's native habitat. That kind of moisture and excessive humidity can be detrimental to your spider.

Reactions: Like 1


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## ratluvr76 (Aug 26, 2014)

vespers said:


> GBB's are a xeric species, and should be kept that way. Pothos are tropical, you won't find pothos or damp mosses in Chromatopelma's native habitat. That kind of moisture and excessive humidity can be detrimental to your spider.


see now this is why I love coming here. I had NO idea what "xeric" meant.. I love coming here, and I love google.


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## Storm76 (Aug 26, 2014)

I'd aim for a number of sticks leaned or glued against the sides for the T to achor webbing onto. Corkbark would work as well. As has been said, plants aren't really working for a GBB enclosure.


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## xirxes (Aug 26, 2014)

It turns out that the GBB has climbed and is webbing all over the leaves anyway, so this won't work either way.

Will remove and add some more wood after molt.


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## tonypace2009 (Aug 26, 2014)

Have you tried building your own LED light stripes? I checked a few videos a year ago and liked the fact that you can use custom use color LEDs plus they can be dimed to get the light effect you want. all that's involved is parts and basic soldering. Just asking interested in taking this rout on a future project.


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## xirxes (Oct 5, 2014)

Here is the current setup for all of the now Juvenile T's. I am enjoying the natural diffuse lighting, and Pothos are all doing quite well with weekly 3-6 ml of water.

http://youtu.be/ETRBu_D9O1U

I will not be using LED lighting so long as I can keep this amount of light with adult enclosures as well.


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## Fyrwulf (Oct 5, 2014)

viper69 said:


> I'm going to tell you the dirty little secret about LED lights, particularly white LED lights. In the LED industry there is no standard of manufacturing or quality control to demonstrate what generates white light. That means, one batch of LEDs may be different than the next. So, some are good, some are terrible. Like my LED flashlight, it's supposed to be white light, but it isn't, I can see a bluish tint to it. When I compare how my Ts look at night w/the LED flashlight and a normal flashlight with a bulb, the color of my Ts is VERY different.
> 
> So I'm not saying don't use LED lights, I'm telling you, don't expect consistency, because there isn't any. I know this for a FACT because I know a person who works at an engineering company that makes light filters. They do not make light filters for LED lights for mass consumption because there is no guarantee of what wavelengths of light are being emitted from white LED lights.


No offense, but this is nonsense. Coral aquarium hobbyists use LED lights all the time, where spectrum control and PAR values are critically important to the survival of corals.

---------- Post added 10-05-2014 at 12:50 AM ----------




xirxes said:


> It turns out that the GBB has climbed and is webbing all over the leaves anyway, so this won't work either way.
> 
> Will remove and add some more wood after molt.


Throw a succulent like Agave in there.


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## ratluvr76 (Oct 5, 2014)

or aloe vera.....


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## Fyrwulf (Oct 5, 2014)

ratluvr76 said:


> or aloe vera.....


I would avoid aloe vera. The leaves are toothy and I've actually sliced my finger on a particularly sharp frond. Same with the toothed varieties of agave. Euphorbiums are also a very definite no.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Oumriel (Oct 5, 2014)

I have the round dioders from ikea, I was going to get the strips but the round color changing ones are not as bright when set to white light. The ts that I have moved in to adult enclosures under these lights are now out almost all the time. It does not show the natural colors very well but I prefer the trade off of getting to see them out doing stuff more often.


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## viper69 (Oct 6, 2014)

Fyrwulf said:


> No offense, but this is nonsense. Coral aquarium hobbyists use LED lights all the time, where spectrum control and PAR values are critically important to the survival of corals.
> 
> ---------- Post added 10-05-2014 at 12:50 AM ----------
> 
> ...



It's not nonsense at all, I don't care if you don't believe it. Call Chroma Technology, they are the leading experts in filters.


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## Hanska (Oct 6, 2014)

Oumriel said:


> I have the round dioders from ikea, I was going to get the strips but the round color changing ones are not as bright when set to white light. The ts that I have moved in to adult enclosures under these lights are now out almost all the time. It does not show the natural colors very well but I prefer the trade off of getting to see them out doing stuff more often.


I have those on half of my display shelf and half of other brand. The other ones are more warm in color as the ikeas are colder. First I had my RCF rosea under the warmer ones and it looked really dull reddish brown. Swapped it with my scop under the cooler lights and WOW! She's so bright red.


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## MadMauC (Oct 6, 2014)

Fyrwulf said:


> No offense, but this is nonsense. Coral aquarium hobbyists use LED lights all the time, where spectrum control and PAR values are critically important to the survival of corals.
> 
> ---------- Post added 10-05-2014 at 12:50 AM ----------
> 
> ...


True. Otherwise there wouldn't be HD OLED tv - HD AMOLED mobile screens (Samsung)  born from this technology that has made leaps and bounds in the last 10 years.


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## Saark (Oct 6, 2014)

Here's a pic of how I light my enclosures. I have 36in shelves with 24in undercabinet strip lights mounted on the undersides of the shelves. The lights cost, if I remember correctly, less than $15 ea and they light the whole shelf nicely. They all plug into a timer and are on 12hrs a day from 8am - 8pm. Everyone seems to be doing fine with the lights. The Ts that were always out and about are still on display and show no more inclination to use their hides than they did before the new set up. I have another shelving unit on the other side of the wall that I need to get lights for then I'll be rearranging things a little bit. I don't like having all the slings stacked three rows deep on the one shelf. I also have a few tanks with their own lighting, like my T. stirmi, a couple avics in the tall exo-terra tanks that sit on a top shelf so there is nowhere to mount the strip light.

Rack with lighting



T. stirmi tank with lighting (should have washed the water spots off the glass...). The bottom tank has an OBT. It's kinda tall but I like it that way. Deep substrate for a burrow that makes her/him happy and more room for me to work when she/he decides to teleport. Although, its ALWAYS in its burrow


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## Fyrwulf (Oct 6, 2014)

viper69 said:


> It's not nonsense at all, I don't care if you don't believe it. Call Chroma Technology, they are the leading experts in filters.


The average piece-of-crap-made-in-China LED used for a flashlight might not be filtered, I'll give you that. But the Cree and Epiled LEDs going into $400+ aquarium lights certainly are.


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