# Haplopelma Family Caresheet



## Tym Hollerup (Apr 10, 2011)

I am stating this thread in hopes of putting together a caresheet for the Haplopelma Family. This obviously includes species as: albostriata, lividum, and  vonwirthi. Looking for substrate depth, temperatures, humidity, and any other proper care tips. I do not have any of these species, but do plan to have a lividum by weeks end. That's why I bring the idea of this caresheet up. Thank you for your input in advance.


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## I HAVE A BIG 1 (Apr 11, 2011)

i would realy like to see this lookin forward to ths


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## Zoltan (Apr 11, 2011)

Just a small correction: _Haplopelma_ is not a family, it's a *genus* (pl. genera), a taxonomic rank which is above 'species' and below 'family.' The family to which the _Haplopelma_ genus and tarantulas belong to is Theraphosidae.

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## ShadowBlade (Apr 11, 2011)

Instead of trying to get people to repost what they have posted a hundred times here about the care of particular species, (which if we do this for all the species, we'll be here awhile) why not maybe try to come up with the like 6 or so different methods of care you will need to keep 99% of spiders?

To aid in your search you will need to know how to care for:
Wet Arboreals
Dry  Arboreals

Wet Terrestrials
Dry  Terrestrials

Wet Fossorials
Dry  Fossorials

-Sean

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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 11, 2011)

*Let me rephrase something*



ShadowBlade said:


> Instead of trying to get people to repost what they have posted a hundred times here about the care of particular species, (which if we do this for all the species, we'll be here awhile) why not maybe try to come up with the like 6 or so different methods of care you will need to keep 99% of spiders?
> 
> To aid in your search you will need to know how to care for:
> Wet Arboreals
> ...


How about I make things a bit more clear here for everyone. I'm not looking for a complete "caresheet" I guess. I think I'm more looking at the lines of: How do you take care of your Pterinochilus family pets. I have searched the forums (yes with advanced searches as well), and have failed too come up with a "caresheet". As I stated though, I'm looking more for experiences here. Personal owners sharing their thoughts, ideas, and opinions.


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## gromgrom (Apr 11, 2011)

How can you fail to come up with a "caresheet" when theres a multitude of information on each *GENUS* on the internet. These aren't families, and most of them in the same *GENUS* require the same care, and if not, you could mention that. 

Rather than asking us to do the work for your project, use the search function. That's why it's there. Turns out, that's what the Internet is helpful for, research. Or asking others to do it for you it seems. 

Protip: Haplo's are mostly AFAIK kept hot and humid with ample soil/peat.

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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 11, 2011)

gromgrom said:


> How can you fail to come up with a "caresheet" when theres a multitude of information on each *GENUS* on the internet. These aren't families, and most of them in the same *GENUS* require the same care, and if not, you could mention that.
> 
> Rather than asking us to do the work for your project, use the search function. That's why it's there. Turns out, that's what the Internet is helpful for, research. Or asking others to do it for you it seems.


What I'm really going for is personal opinions here. It seems everyone fails too grasp that concept though. Searching is great. Done plenty of that. However, how does that relate to personal experience from others that have dealt with them hands on? Maybe "caresheet" wasn't the best wording. But it would be nice if everyone could move past that and grasp the concept of this thread!


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## gladmar (Apr 11, 2011)

*Haplopelma Lividum(Cobalt Blue)*
H. lividum is a fast moving aggressive species, it is recommended for experienced tarantula keepers only as it will take up a threat posture, and start striking out at the slightest provocation.





I feed on medium crickets, 3 once or twice a week for my sling until its refuse to eat (You will know if he/she refuse his food by just killing and drag out his food to his borruw), I do not provide a water dish for Haplopelma as the high humidity is more than sufficiant. Spiderlings are large 15mm legspan approx, and will grow quickly if well fed.


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## esotericman (Apr 11, 2011)

Part of the issue is that there are some keepers who claim to keep ALL species one of five ways.  This is an insult to our pets/charges/whatever, even clinical animal care allows more flexibility.  Of course on the other end of the spectrum are those who keep everything slightly differently, maybe a little more leaf mold here, maybe a little more clay there. 

By asking for "caresheets" or a summation of an entire genus, the question discounts a great deal of those people who don't cookie cutter the animals.  

Furthermore, as you stick around the hobby, you'll find care sheets are garbage.  A decent keeper can adjust the conditions to suit the animal just by looking at it.  Caresheets only help the nervous in the beginning, it's sort of like memorizing the manual for your car, sure you have "facts" but that doesn't help you drive.

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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 11, 2011)

esotericman said:


> Caresheets only help the nervous in the beginning, it's sort of like memorizing the manual for your car, sure you have "facts" but that doesn't help you drive.


I totally just stole that!!! Thanks! You got the quote of the year!!!


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## gladmar (Apr 11, 2011)

> Originally Posted by *esotericman *View Post
> Caresheets only help the nervous in the beginning, it's sort of like memorizing the manual for your car, sure you have "facts" but that doesn't help you drive.


I 2nd the motion.... You got the quote of the year!!!: :clap:


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## ShadowBlade (Apr 11, 2011)

esotericman said:


> Part of the issue is that there are some keepers who claim to keep ALL species one of five ways.  This is an insult to our pets/charges/whatever, even clinical animal care allows more flexibility.


Wait, what? How is that an insult? It seems rather accurate IMO.. I mean how many different generalizations can be made about T care? I can't think of more then 6 or so...

Of course there's some variations based on the T's natural habitat, but that hardly means they can't be grouped together. Its like grouping vehicles into SUV's, Coupes, Trucks, Minivans..etc and then saying that is an insult because no two trucks are the same to maintain?

-Sean


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## jgod790 (Apr 11, 2011)

For H. lividum care, what I do, is I keep the temperature around 80-85 during the day, ( I think as long as its not above 95, no harm will be done, don't quote me on that though Id look it up ) And let the temperature drop at night. Usually around 70-75. And obviously give them enough substrate, I recommend pre digging a burrow, or at least starting one. The advantage of this, is you can place it somewhere, so that you can still see it ( like in a corner, or up against the glass), even when its hiding. Or it will dig where ever it wants, possibly somewhere with no visibility at all. The disadvantage of pre digging, is you miss out on the experience of watching them dig. How ever you might miss out regardless, unless you watch it 24/7 for the first month you have it. And keep a water dish FULL at ALL times. And place the dish in a place so that they wont dig under it, collapsing on them. Try to give the lividum a good day/night cycle. If done properly, most of the lividums activity will happen about an hour into the night cycle ( so long as there are NO disturbances ). And keep it moist in the enclosure, some people say you need a humidity of 80%. I personally don't think 80% humidity is necessary. And lividums are VERY nervous and skittish. If my lividum is out of her burrow, and there is a loud out burst in the room, such as a loud laugh, she will run back in her burrow. And feed it 1-2 crickets a week, or 3-4 every other week depending on size of the lividum, and crickets. And that is my personal "experience/caresheet" for H. lividum. I read that you can keep them healthy in a somewhat dry enclosure, I'm in the process of adapting mine to live in dryer conditions. To avoid mite problems. Currently, I mist/wet her enclosure about once every 2-3 days. My goal is to mist/wet only once every other week. But we will see how that goes.


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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 11, 2011)

jgod790 said:


> For H. lividum care, what I do, is I keep the temperature around 80-85 during the day, ( I think as long as its not above 95, no harm will be done, don't quote me on that though Id look it up ) And let the temperature drop at night. Usually around 70-75. And obviously give them enough substrate, I recommend pre digging a burrow, or at least starting one. The advantage of this, is you can place it somewhere, so that you can still see it ( like in a corner, or up against the glass), even when its hiding. Or it will dig where ever it wants, possibly somewhere with no visibility at all. The disadvantage of pre digging, is you miss out on the experience of watching them dig. How ever you might miss out regardless, unless you watch it 24/7 for the first month you have it. And keep a water dish FULL at ALL times. And place the dish in a place so that they wont dig under it, collapsing on them. Try to give the lividum a good day/night cycle. If done properly, most of the lividums activity will happen about an hour into the night cycle ( so long as there are NO disturbances ). And keep it moist in the enclosure, some people say you need a humidity of 80%. I personally don't think 80% humidity is necessary. And lividums are VERY nervous and skittish. If my lividum is out of her burrow, and there is a loud out burst in the room, such as a loud laugh, she will run back in her burrow. And feed it 1-2 crickets a week, or 3-4 every other week depending on size of the lividum, and crickets. And that is my personal "experience/caresheet" for H. lividum. I read that you can keep them healthy in a somewhat dry enclosure, I'm in the process of adapting mine to live in dryer conditions. To avoid mite problems. Currently, I mist/wet her enclosure about once every 2-3 days. My goal is to mist/wet only once every other week. But we will see how that goes.


Thank you sir. You are very kind. A nice honest and respectable answer. Very much appreciated.

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## jgod790 (Apr 11, 2011)

I just read from a very accurate source, ( a post from Shultz, author of tarantula keepers guide ) that it is not necessary to worry about humidity to much. Don't keep it bone dry, but no need to soak it every couple days. I will try to get you a link to the article.

---------- Post added at 03:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:15 PM ----------

Ok go under new tarantula chat, I have a thread called "obligate burrower gone arid" There is a link for the article under that thread.


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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 11, 2011)

jgod790 said:


> I just read from a very accurate source, ( a post from Shultz, author of tarantula keepers guide ) that it is not necessary to worry about humidity to much. Don't keep it bone dry, but no need to soak it every couple days. I will try to get you a link to the article.
> 
> ---------- Post added at 03:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:15 PM ----------
> 
> Ok go under new tarantula chat, I have a thread called "obligate burrower gone arid" There is a link for the article under that thread.


Found it. Thank you for that as well.


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## Hatr3d (Apr 11, 2011)

I know I'm no one compared to Schultz but I disagree on keeping an Haplopelma on dry substrate.If they survive/thrive that doesn't necessarily mean they couldn't be more comfortable than that.


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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 11, 2011)

Hatr3d said:


> I know I'm no one compared to Schultz but I disagree on keeping an Haplopelma on dry substrate.If they survive/thrive that doesn't necessarily mean they couldn't be more comfortable than that.


This is what I looking for. Nice and friendly discussion. I do agree with you both actually. I plan too mist heavily about once a week or so.


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## curiousme (Apr 11, 2011)

Hatr3d said:


> I know I'm no one compared to Schultz but I disagree on keeping an Haplopelma on dry substrate.If they survive/thrive that doesn't necessarily mean they couldn't be more comfortable than that.


I concur.  We keep ours nice and humid.

Here are a couple different incarnations of it and below is it currently.  We have switched plants up a few times and the moss did die without a dormant cycle.








What people fail to understand is that tarantula care is all about personal preference.  There are loose guidelines and things recommended against for safety, but tarantulas can survive in a wide variety of conditions.  So you as the keeper get to choose and create your own husbandry style.


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## BrettG (Apr 11, 2011)

Tym Hollerup said:


> This is what I looking for. Nice and friendly discussion. I do agree with you both actually. I plan too mist heavily about once a week or so.


Instead of misting,just dump a cup or two of water right into the substrate and let it soak in. I do this in one corner of the enclosure once every 10 days or so,and humidity holds pretty well.


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## esotericman (Apr 11, 2011)

That text, the one to which you refer, is complete garbage in some parts, and keeping this genus dry is one of them.  

In my opinion for many burrowing species, you only need a deep substrate which is "wet" at the bottom and "dry" at the top.  The animal will find the depth and humidity is is most comfortable with.  Of course "wet" and "dry" have quite a range of definitions, but for _Haplopelma_, wet would be pretty close to soaking wet at least in the bottom 1" or so.

I suggest searching for Martin H. posts on the topic, the plastic cereal containers replicate this moisture gradient quite well.  

Nice set up by the way.

And that is the fact of it... just because you "can" do it, does NOT mean you should.  You can keep most species in a deli cup for years without harm as adults, but unless we're making bonsai authors with 55 gallon drums as well, I don't believe that it is "OK".


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## jgod790 (Apr 11, 2011)

Hatr3d said:


> I know I'm no one compared to Schultz but I disagree on keeping an Haplopelma on dry substrate.If they survive/thrive that doesn't necessarily mean they couldn't be more comfortable than that.


But at the same time, dry means no,or A LOT less "pests" such as mites. And a large water dish helps keeping it humid.


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## esotericman (Apr 12, 2011)

And the same text assumes all mites are "pests", again, more garbage.  Unless they're ON the tarantula, they're not a pest at all.  Only ecto-parasitic species or species clogging the book lungs in search of moisture are ever a problem.  This means 99% of mites are 100% harmless.


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## gladmar (Apr 12, 2011)

esotericman said:


> And the same text assumes all mites are "pests", again, more garbage.  Unless they're ON the tarantula, they're not a pest at all.  Only ecto-parasitic species or species clogging the book lungs in search of moisture are ever a problem.  This means 99% of mites are 100% harmless.


 I what to see ur T's NO pic/galley on profile! :worship:


> again, more garbage. :?


http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/member.php?u=3410


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## Mojo Jojo (Apr 12, 2011)

gladmar said:


> I what to see ur T's NO pic/galley on profile! :worship:
> 
> http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/member.php?u=3410


The gallery only shows the pictures that you have uploaded directly to this site.  Since most people link their pics from other sites like Photobcket instead, you won't generally see much data on the gallery page of most people.


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## jgod790 (Apr 12, 2011)

esotericman said:


> And the same text assumes all mites are "pests", again, more garbage.  Unless they're ON the tarantula, they're not a pest at all.  Only ecto-parasitic species or species clogging the book lungs in search of moisture are ever a problem.  This means 99% of mites are 100% harmless.


Pests are not always harmful. I can sit in your bed room and annoy you, and over populate in your territory and cause a nuisance with out physically hurting or killing you. Mites are inevitable for most enclosures, but keeping it dry will help keep the population down.


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## gladmar (Apr 12, 2011)

Big Dragonfly said:


> The gallery only shows the pictures that you have uploaded directly to this site.  Since most people link their pics from other sites like Photobcket instead, you won't generally see much data on the gallery page of most people.


much better we upload some T's pic to our gallery, so that we can see ur T's list in a various traits. "lots pros"! :liar:


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## flamesbane (Apr 12, 2011)

If you seed humid enclosures with spring tails I think you will find that you won't have many (if any) mites...


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## NikiP (Apr 12, 2011)

jgod790 said:


> But at the same time, dry means no,or A LOT less "pests" such as mites. And a large water dish helps keeping it humid.





jgod790 said:


> Pests are not always harmful. I can sit in your bed room and annoy you, and over populate in your territory and cause a nuisance with out physically hurting or killing you. Mites are inevitable for most enclosures, but keeping it dry will help keep the population down.


Have you ever actually kept an enclosure going with high humidity for a long period of time? Or are you just parroting information that you've heard?

There are plenty of ways to help avoid bad pests in high humidity tanks.


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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 12, 2011)

NikiP said:


> Have you ever actually kept an enclosure going with high humidity for a long period of time? Or are you just parroting information that you've heard?
> 
> There are plenty of ways to help avoid bad pests in high humidity tanks.


Such as? Last thing I need is pests crawling around in an Old World enclosure!


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## Pociemon (Apr 12, 2011)

There are more ways to keep haplos than just humid. granted, i only keep hainanum and schmidti, but i have many of those. I keep them very humid in 6 months of the year, and the other 6 months i keep them dry, just keep a corner wet so the T can get water. Never have had any unwanted guests, but did get an eggsack though, so there is not only 1 correct way of keeping them. i have been to the places where they live in nature, and there is VEERY dry and looking at places where they can get water is hard. They get it when there is rainy season, and in dry season when there is occasional rain. I doubt there is very humid in their holes. But when they molt, it is typiccally in the rainy season. So keep them humid in the warm months and dry in the cold months works very well.


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## NikiP (Apr 12, 2011)

Tym Hollerup said:


> Such as? Last thing I need is pests crawling around in an Old World enclosure!


Springtails & isopods (pill/sow bugs)



Thomas said:


> There are more ways to keep haplos than just humid. granted, i only keep hainanum and schmidti, but i have many of those. I keep them very humid in 6 months of the year, and the other 6 months i keep them dry, just keep a corner wet so the T can get water. Never have had any unwanted guests, but did get an eggsack though, so there is not only 1 correct way of keeping them. i have been to the places where they live in nature, and there is VEERY dry and looking at places where they can get water is hard. They get it when there is rainy season, and in dry season when there is occasional rain. I doubt there is very humid in their holes. But when they molt, it is typiccally in the rainy season. So keep them humid in the warm months and dry in the cold months works very well.


This is a well thought out example of seasonal changes & why :clap:


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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 12, 2011)

Can someone please explain how Springtails work and how they (apparently) don't hurt the Tarantula.


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## Mojo Jojo (Apr 12, 2011)

Tym Hollerup said:


> Can someone please explain how Springtails work and how they (apparently) don't hurt the Tarantula.


You know, I had the same question as you a couple hours ago.  I hit up my homie, Google, who gave me the lowdown quite expeditiously!  The guy is chill and I'm 100% positive that he'd help you out whenever you needed it.


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## flamesbane (Apr 12, 2011)

Tym Hollerup said:


> Can someone please explain how Springtails work and how they (apparently) don't hurt the Tarantula.


They are small scavengers that eat decaying material in the enclosure, thus denying other potential pests any food. They like high humidity and reproduce easily, they are very small and hard to see. Dartfrog keepers have used them for years as food and tank cleaners.


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## esotericman (Apr 12, 2011)

Tym,

I agree with Flamesbane 100%.  But I want to venture a guess based on some of your other posts this week.  This is not an insult, but a mere question... do you lean towards the OCD end of life?  

If so, then as a very long term hobbyists and biologist, I can only suggest you relax a bit.  Biology, which our hobby is an extension of, does not follow set in stone rules.  Physics and chemistry, those fields have rules, and most physicists I know run screaming in terror at the idea of biology.  Even in the driest of enclosures, there will be life doing what life does, these are pets, not cell cultures.  Think more natural sour dough than cell broth used to culture cells in, if that makes any sense?

Here is another example... during the civil war, those soldiers who had wounds which ended up with maggots LIVED, those who did not died from bacterial infections.  The more diverse we keep our enclosures, which includes isopods, springtails, and mites, the less likely you'll have issues with over growths in molds and fungi.

As you do this over a decade, you'll see that trying to control all variables just makes you insane and stresses out the animals.  OCD or not, it's a lesson nearly all keepers learn.

Again, no insults meant, just passing on some long term keeper wisdom.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 12, 2011)

esotericman said:


> Tym,
> 
> I agree with Flamesbane 100%.  But I want to venture a guess based on some of your other posts this week.  This is not an insult, but a mere question... do you lean towards the OCD end of life?
> 
> ...


Yeah. I swear I've gotten worse with age. Some things just need to be "perfect". I understand everyone does things different, but I just want to do the best that I can. It's very apparent that I have issues with my abilities if you will, but for some reason or another, I just want things "just right". Maybe I just want to avoid deaths. Maybe I just want to avoid injury. Too me or the spiders. Maybe I just need to calm down, relax, and let spiders be spiders. Problem is... It isn't that easy for me. :wall: Sorry.


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## esotericman (Apr 13, 2011)

Tym,

No problem at all, none!  What you're doing, most new to the hobby do, some never get over it!  It's sort of funny to me to see someone cleaning the inside glass daily, but with that there is no risk to the spider.  With changing substrate weekly, well that could really stress a lot of animals to death.  

I believe some of the "negative" posts are just the frustration of some keepers over your seeming desire for perfection.  In our hobby, a healthy tarantula is perfection, even if there are mites, fungi and gnats (fungus gnats mind you).  This doesn't mean you have to have "ugly" tanks though.

With time you'll see how hardy tarantulas are if left alone, and relaxation will come, although when I had a few hundred it WAS tough to stay relaxed...


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## LV-426 (Apr 13, 2011)

esotericman said:


> Tym,
> 
> No problem at all, none!  What you're doing, most new to the hobby do, some never get over it!  It's sort of funny to me to see someone cleaning the inside glass daily, but with that there is no risk to the spider.  With changing substrate weekly, well that could really stress a lot of animals to death.
> 
> ...


I agree totally


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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 13, 2011)

Well rest assured I'm not bad enough that I clean the enclosure every week or change substrate all the time. I'll only need to do substrate once every 6-18 months if I spot clean it. And with the Old Worlds I'm getting tomorrow, you can bet your a@@ that I'm going in those enclosures AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE!!!  LOL. But as for care and overall set-up for them... Yeah, that's when my OCD kicks in.


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## NikiP (Apr 13, 2011)

With slightly larger enclosures, I really wouldn't worry about them escaping. In my experience, I use fairly large containers for the size tarantulas I keep in them, and haven't had any bolters or anyone who freaks out. Everyone has enclosures designed carefully for what they do so everyone can design appropriate hides for their species. Therefore they retreat when spooked.

Welll.....except my C ritae  They are my only bolters, but their containers are small and need rehousing. Good thing they are so cute!


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## Tym Hollerup (Apr 15, 2011)

*Jessica*

Even though I uploaded a picture of her in the Gallery section, I couldn't resist posting it up here too. Obviously her name is Jessica. She is amazing, and exactly what I've always wanted!


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## Jenthevet (Jul 9, 2011)

Speaking as a novice, Tym, I understand what you were going for initially with this thread and I appreciate the help.  I searched for "Haplopelma substrate" and was taken here.  The boards are for all experience levels, so thanks.   I also don't think a bit of OCD is a bad thing when it comes to animal care.


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## Tym Hollerup (Jul 9, 2011)

Jenthevet said:


> Speaking as a novice, Tym, I understand what you were going for initially with this thread and I appreciate the help.  I searched for "Haplopelma substrate" and was taken here.  The boards are for all experience levels, so thanks.   I also don't think a bit of OCD is a bad thing when it comes to animal care.


Thank you. Majority of people didn't seem to catch onto what I was going for in the thread. Oh well. Thanks again Jen.


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## Lopez (Jul 9, 2011)

jgod790 said:


> And keep a water dish FULL at ALL times..


I jeep a lot of Haplopelma, and have done for around 10 years, and don't give any of them water dishes.

---------- Post added at 10:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 PM ----------




Tym Hollerup said:


> Well rest assured I'm not bad enough that I clean the enclosure every week or change substrate all the time. I'll only need to do substrate once every 6-18 months if I spot clean it. And with the Old Worlds I'm getting tomorrow, you can bet your a@@ that I'm going in those enclosures AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE!!!  LOL. But as for care and overall set-up for them... Yeah, that's when my OCD kicks in.


Every 6 months!? I have Haplopelma in the same substrate from 2002! Why do you need to change it :?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Tym Hollerup (Jul 9, 2011)

Lopez said:


> Every 6 months!? I have Haplopelma in the same substrate from 2002! Why do you need to change it :?


In other words, if the substrate is kept clean (spot cleaning, ect.), then there should be no reason to ever have to remove the spider until it passes on? Which may be many many years down the road? That would make a lot of people more confident in keeping Old Worlds if this were the case.


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## Lopez (Jul 10, 2011)

Unless I'm moving a tarantula to a different tank, I never change the substrate. I don't do spot cleaning either. If I happen to get a spread of mould I just scrape off the affected surface substrate. To be honest I've never understood the obsession a lot of people have with renewing substrate, it's not necessary.


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