What do you think is the best beginner snake and why?

[Lorgakor]

How warm is the room you keep them in Ballpython2?

 

[ballpython2]

How warm is the room you keep them in Ballpython2?

my house goes no lower than 70 and thats in the summer so i dont even need the heat on in the summer time and during the winter my house is always 73 or high because boston gets COLD and our winters last what seems like for 5 months,


Plus, my room only having one window it traps heat in there more times than not compared to another room in my house that has three windows and that room needed plastic over the windows cause the cold air seeps through. sometimes in the winter I have to crack my window open because its even too hot for me.



Every snake owner knows that keeping a snake warm is the #1 rule its survival because they are cold blooded and their batteries are heat operated. if theres no heat they cant live,eat/digest properly and so on

 

[Ritzman]

I would never ever, ever ever ever, keep my Carpet without a heat source. I have 2 heat sources for a 40gal breeder, and she utilizes the heat when she wants. If not, she goes to the cooler places. I like giving her the option. For instance, right after she is done eating a medium rat, she goes to the highest perch, right below the ceramic heat emitter, and digests her meal. It stays around 70 degrees in my house and IMO, that is to cold for a carpet python, especially after they eat.

 

[halfwaynowhere]

ballpython2- I agree that sometimes "unorthodox" methods work. That said, this thread is asking for recommendations for a beginner, and I feel it is irresponsible to recommend that a novice snake keeper keep a ball python with no heat, without going into detail on the special circumstances in your situation (which you've done a good job of clearing up, by the way).

My house is kept at a cooler temperature, and while my room does retain heat pretty well, I know that I wouldn't personally want to risk keeping a ball python with no heat source.

that said, i don't think its really that difficult to just place a heat mat under a tub. The one I used for my ball python was purchased on ebay for around $15, and had a built in dimmer switch. Along with a ~$10 thermometer w/ probe from walmart, it was really easy to keep the tub at a good, consistent temperature. Overall, my setup cost under $40, and my ball python ate every single time I offered her food, and grew at a steady, normal rate.

 

[Obelisk]

It would still be best to provide a heat source, Its a lot safer to do that so just in case the heat drops at night or what no. But if you are a begginer i wouldn't reccomend a hognose.

Ok. So why aren't hognoses good for beginners? Does it have to do with them being difficult feeders? I've been wanting to get either a hognose or some species of milksnake.

 

[jayefbe]

Ballpython2 -

Name 1 respected source that thinks it is ok to keep a python without heat. It's not. Just because you haven't had a fatality yet does not mean your snakes are healthy or living under optimal or even suitable conditions. Seriously, come up with one reason (other than the fact that your snakes haven't died yet) that it's ok to keep them at barely over 70 degrees. Look at the temperatures in their home range. Look at all the research people at VPI, NERD, Bob Clark have done. Your decision to keep them without a heat gradient and a hot spot is nothing but cheap and ignorant. Sorry if you disagree, but I strongly feel that your methods of keeping snakes is inhumane.

I know that I could probably throw a ball python in a shoe box, leave it in the closet and it would still be alive 6 months later. It does NOT mean that I think it's the correct (or a suitable) way to keep them.

I have kept snakes for well over a decade, and I have bred them from time to time. I have had carpets, balls, burms, retics, bci, bcc, gtps, and spotteds. My current collection consists of over 20 pythons, half of them are currently breeding. I own the VPI ball python book, which is in my opinion the best book out there for ball python care. Nothing, in all my years of experience and research, has led me to believe that it is ok to keep any pythons at room temperature.

Again, just because your snakes haven't died does not mean it is ok to keep them in those substandard conditions.

 

[Tecnition4life]

Ok. So why aren't hognoses good for beginners? Does it have to do with them being difficult feeders? I've been wanting to get either a hognose or some species of milksnake.

A milksnake would be way better beginner, i guess a hognose isnt that bad. But yes they can be problem feeders and if you don't have experience it may become harder to get them to eat. And they are not the hardiest snakes out there, it is better to get them with more experience. I would reccommend getting a milksnake first.

 

[Avicularia Man]

Ok. So why aren't hognoses good for beginners? Does it have to do with them being difficult feeders? I've been wanting to get either a hognose or some species of milksnake.

Hognose snakes have a special diet. They eat frogs and toads. they have been known to be weaned off frogs and toads and onto mice, but it doesn't always work and isn't guaranteed to work for the individual you purchase. So unless you have a solid source to buy frogs and toads from, you are going to have issues getting food for your Hognose. Even if you do find a good source to buy frogs and toads from, it isn't going to be cheap. One good way to wean then is by rubbing a frog of toad on the mouse you are trying to get it to eat. Milk snakes make good beginner snakes. Just keep in mind to keep them one per cage because they eat other snakes, including their own kind.

 

[Shrike]

Although I've never owned a hog nosed snake, I've read that Westerns Heterodon nasicus are much more easily weaned on to mice than Easterns, Heterodon platirhinos. Can anyone with experience confirm?

 

[Obelisk]

Hognose snakes have a special diet. They eat frogs and toads. they have been known to be weaned off frogs and toads and onto mice, but it doesn't always work and isn't guaranteed to work for the individual you purchase. So unless you have a solid source to buy frogs and toads from, you are going to have issues getting food for your Hognose. Even if you do find a good source to buy frogs and toads from, it isn't going to be cheap. One good way to wean then is by rubbing a frog of toad on the mouse you are trying to get it to eat. Milk snakes make good beginner snakes. Just keep in mind to keep them one per cage because they eat other snakes, including their own kind.

Thanks. Though I've read about them specializing in amphibians, I've also read that the Western Hognose (Heterodon nasicus) can more easily be raised on mice (like what mking said), especially as CB.

I'm not sure how good a feeder a CB H. nasicus would be compared to a kingsnake or cornsnake though. Either way, I see myself more likely getting a milksnake.

 

[Shrike]

Definitely a great choice. Do you have a species in mind?

 

[Avicularia Man]

I will be catching myself a Lampropeltis triangulum triangulum (Eastern Milk snake) this summer. I haven't gone snake hunting in a few years. Where I hunted as a kid has been destroyed so apartments can be built. Should be fun finding new grounds to hunt this coming season.

 

[Obelisk]

I'm thinking either a Lampropeltis t. campbelli (Pueblan) or Lampropeltis t. sinaloae (Sinaloan). I really like their tricolor pattern.

I'm been thinking about getting one of those locking plastic containers that they have at walmart or office depot. I'm not sure if that will be strong enough to contain one, but I'm going to do a lot more research before finally getting one.

 

[Shrike]

Can't go wrong with either one. Personally, I'm a big fan of Andeans, but I've got an Andean (Lampropeltis triangulum andesiana) myself so I'll admit I'm biased. These guys can get big (for a milk snake), but their colors don't pop as much as the species you mentioned. Another interesting choice would be the black milk snake (Lampropeltis triangulum gaigeae). This species is also on the large side. They start off tri-colored but change to black as they mature...I've heard people refer to them as the poor man's indigo, but they're great snakes in their own right.

 

[Avicularia Man]

I'm thinking either a Lampropeltis t. campbelli (Pueblan) or Lampropeltis t. sinaloae (Sinaloan). I really like their tricolor pattern.

I'm been thinking about getting one of those locking plastic containers that they have at walmart or office depot. I'm not sure if that will be strong enough to contain one, but I'm going to do a lot more research before finally getting one.

Man I would own a few snakes from Florida if I lived there. Have you ever gone snake hunting? You have a lot of awesome snakes down there. I could just imagine what you could find if you hunted in the Glades.

 

[dtknow]

CB western hogs make excellent beginner snakes and certainly do not need frogs/toads. People raise them their whole lives on mice. From talking to breeders most of them start just fine on pinkies, those that don't scenting with tuna water, toad etc. will usually work. Sides as a beginner you should not be buying a fresh unstarted hatchling anyway(unless you potentially want a crashcourse on how to scent/brain/do all kinds of culinary arts on pinky mice). Not much more difficult than picky milks. Hognose have a big advantage in being day active and will be out cruising for a lot of the daytime.

Honduran milks are strong contenders for the color category. Very variable the original colors ranged from tricolor white all the way to "tangerine" animals with red/orange to orange/orange. I have two babies with red/yellow and they are eye poppers. I've only seen a few pueblans/sinaloans but it seems the Hondurans have those beat as far as color goes. They have a neat face pattern with a black mask and black nose tip(as opposed to all black)...which makes them a lot "cuter". They only disadvantage is large size(5 ft plus).

 

[Obelisk]

Man I would own a few snakes from Florida if I lived there. Have you ever gone snake hunting? You have a lot of awesome snakes down there. I could just imagine what you could find if you hunted in the Glades.

For me, herp-hunting is something that's long overdue. I've found plenty of Dekay's snakes, Ring-necks, and a few black racers in my area. But I know that I'd find a lot of cool stuff if I went out to some remote place like the Everglades.

 

[Obelisk]

CB western hogs make excellent beginner snakes and certainly do not need frogs/toads. People raise them their whole lives on mice. From talking to breeders most of them start just fine on pinkies, those that don't scenting with tuna water, toad etc. will usually work. Sides as a beginner you should not be buying a fresh unstarted hatchling anyway(unless you potentially want a crashcourse on how to scent/brain/do all kinds of culinary arts on pinky mice). Not much more difficult than picky milks. Hognose have a big advantage in being day active and will be out cruising for a lot of the daytime.

Honduran milks are strong contenders for the color category. Very variable the original colors ranged from tricolor white all the way to "tangerine" animals with red/orange to orange/orange. I have two babies with red/yellow and they are eye poppers. I've only seen a few pueblans/sinaloans but it seems the Hondurans have those beat as far as color goes. They have a neat face pattern with a black mask and black nose tip(as opposed to all black)...which makes them a lot "cuter". They only disadvantage is large size(5 ft plus).

Thanks for the info. I've heard about the CB Westerns not giving people such a hard time about feeding.

The Pueblans and Sinaloans have the nicest patterns IMO. 5 feet isn't too big, but I plan on starting out with a relatively small snake.

 

[David_F]

I don't have nearly as much experience as a lot of the people here but my choice for "best" beginner snake would be a native (non-hot) snake...with a few exceptions, depending on where you're from, of course.

Where I'm from, it's easy to find snakes that make wonderful captives. Kingsnakes, ratsnakes, ringnecks, wormsnakes, etc. Nothing too interesting, if you're just into big, colorful snakes, but amazing animals nonetheless.

I know for a fact a lot of other localles in the US have much more interesting snakes. Find what you can.

With locally-found animals the care requirements are much easier to attain. Heat, humidity, and feeding schedule are much easier to manipulate.

My opinion of worst snake to start with falls in the same category of native snakes: anything from Natricidae. Garters and watersnakes are nasty animals. They have no qualms about biting you and when they musk, which they will, every chance they get, it smells like death warmed over. And they'll do everything in their power to get it on you.

But, again, that's just my opinion and from my experience.

Best to buy from a herp show: Kings, corns, and balls. Just stay away from the farm-raised or WC balls.

 

[pitbulllady]

I don't have nearly as much experience as a lot of the people here but my choice for "best" beginner snake would be a native (non-hot) snake...with a few exceptions, depending on where you're from, of course.

Where I'm from, it's easy to find snakes that make wonderful captives. Kingsnakes, ratsnakes, ringnecks, wormsnakes, etc. Nothing too interesting, if you're just into big, colorful snakes, but amazing animals nonetheless.

I know for a fact a lot of other localles in the US have much more interesting snakes. Find what you can.

With locally-found animals the care requirements are much easier to attain. Heat, humidity, and feeding schedule are much easier to manipulate.

My opinion of worst snake to start with falls in the same category of native snakes: anything from Natricidae. Garters and watersnakes are nasty animals. They have no qualms about biting you and when they musk, which they will, every chance they get, it smells like death warmed over. And they'll do everything in their power to get it on you.

But, again, that's just my opinion and from my experience.

Best to buy from a herp show: Kings, corns, and balls. Just stay away from the farm-raised or WC balls.

My experiences with Water Snakes has been just the opposite; I've been musked on and bitten by far more Corns and Rat snakes than Waters. Garters do tend to be a bit more nervous and nippy than their bigger cousins, but all of the Garters I've dealt with were wild-caught and there are many people who are breeding captive morphs of Garters, which are rodent eaters and have a much calmer disposition. If someone has an issue with feeding rodents(and some folks do), then these snakes are a good alternative to many popular species.

pitbulllady