Quick Reference guide to answer common questions

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Ariel

Ariel

Arachnoprince
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Hey Jabbewocky,

isn't it P. murinus, not P. mammicatuus (Also OBT can me orange baboon tarantula).

and to expand that helpful post:

KB = King baboon (C. crawshayi)
GBB = Green bottle blue (C. cyaneopubescens)
LP = L. parahybana

DCF= dark color form
RCF= red color form
TCF = typical or "true" color form
LCF = Light color form
 
cacoseraph

cacoseraph

ArachnoGod
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Intensive Care Units (Tarantula ICU)


http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=171487 <-- by one or more of the Schultzes (The Tarantula Keeper's Guide!)
direct link --> http://people.ucalgary.ca/~schultz/icu10.html

bit more info, mentions a dry icu
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=147546

interesting thread with at least one good post to check out by Talkenlate04
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=125674



p.s. i don't *think* i saw this in here yet... and i could have sworn there was an ICU sticky somewhere before. i looked in Q&D but refuse to look in chat for such a thing =P
 
xhexdx

xhexdx

ArachnoGod
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Thanks guys!

One of these days I'm going to get around to fixing all the search links, I just need to get back to Caco's thread and manually create them!
 
xhexdx

xhexdx

ArachnoGod
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A couple other things:

What do the numbers mean?

I see this one once every week or so...

Male.Female.Unsexed

For example:

1.2.3 = 1 male, 2 females, 3 unsexed.
0.1 = 1 female.
1.0 = 1 male.

Also...

Species name is not capitalized.

Brachypelma smithi...not Brachypelma Smithi. I've been seeing this a lot lately, too. :}
 
xhexdx

xhexdx

ArachnoGod
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Cleaning roach bins

codykrr said:
Ok so i have been asked how i clean my roach bins with a vacuum cleaner several times.

This method works very well for me. But you will need a dedicated vacuum cleaner(i prefer bag less, as sometimes the moisture from water or whatever can ruin a bagged vacuum)


ok step one get you roach bin and access the filth.
here is mine(i keep all my egg crates and card board in the center for ease of cleaning and feeding)

mine isnt that dirty but to show you all i will proceed.



ok now what i do is i take the bin and tilt it to one side.



ok so now what i do, is shake it up and down making sure all the frass and dead roaches/molts falls to the bottom. then i lift the egg crates and cardboard in one motion and push to the other side to reveal all the frass and what not(note- you will have roaches mixed in with the frass, let it sit at this point for 10 min or so untill most have returned to the safety of the egg crates)

this is what it will look like after shaking, and the egg crates are pushed to the other side.



After most of the roaches return to the egg crates, simply vacuum the mess up.(note- you will loose a few nymphs every now and again, but with a healthy colony it shouldnt matter much)

just vacuum



after you vacuum all the mess up, shake it some more to get any left over frass and stuff. After you do that it should look like this.



Once that is done i like to water and feed. I put the crates in the middle and place food directly on the bottom of one side, and water crystal directly on the bottom of the other side. This helps prevent mold, and mites. I also only feed what they will eat and drink in a day or 2 day period.
(Note- i add food coloring to my water crystals because they seem to eat them better with it added. THIS IS NOT NECESSARY, JUST SOMETHING I DO)

when all done and complete, you will have something like this




This method of care has provided me with countless roaches, never had a mite problem, nor mold problem.

I know not every one will agree with the way i keep them, but it works. and i use the same method for my lateralis too, i just clean them less often because of egg cases on the floor of the bin.

enjoy!
Click to expand...
..........
 
xhexdx

xhexdx

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Tarantula venom compared to bee venom

The original question involved whether or not someone allergic to bee venom would have an allergic reaction to tarantula venom. Click the little blue arrow to open up the original thread.

Venom said:
Tell your mom not to worry. The chemical composition of tarantula venom (ALL of them) makes their bites innately hypoallergenic. There is less than a 0.0001% chance of anyone having an allergic reaction to tarantula venom, even if they are already allergic to bee venom. The venoms are THAT different.

Here's why: most venoms are made up of proteins dissolved in a liquid matrix. Proteins are large molecules, generally speaking, and are easy for your immune system to "detect" and react to. But tarantula venom is made of peptides dissolved in a liquid matrix--and peptides are the building blocks of proteins. As such, the peptides are waaaaaay smaller molecules, and they literally "fly under the radar" of your immune system. Unless your immune system is an extravagantly rare freak of nature, (which I'm not betting on) there is no way you could have a reaction to tarantula venom.

"True spider" venoms are different--as in, spiders that are not tarantulas. Because regular spider venom IS based on proteins, you are more likely to have an allergic reaction to a plain old garden spider than you are to any tarantula.

That said, Poecilotheria have some pretty unpleasant bites even without allergies being an issue, and I would advise caution. Many is the keeper who, after being bitten by a Pokie, sought professional medical help.
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J

jebbewocky

Arachnoangel
Old Timer
Joined
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Messages
909
Ariel said:
Hey Jabbewocky,

isn't it P. murinus, not P. mammicatuus (Also OBT can me orange baboon tarantula).

and to expand that helpful post:

KB = King baboon (C. crawshayi)
GBB = Green bottle blue (C. cyaneopubescens)
LP = L. parahybana

DCF= dark color form
RCF= red color form
TCF = typical or "true" color form
LCF = Light color form
Click to expand...
Yes, my mistake. I'm surprised nobody corrected me on that before.
OBT can also mean "Orange Bastard Tarantula."
 
Shell

Shell

ArachnoVixen AKA Dream Crusher AKA Heartbreaker
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Bag Transfer Technique

hcsk8ter said:
Hi,
My 3" Female Poecilotheria Regalis needs more space so it was time to upgrade to a bigger container. Sh'e lightning fast and the "half a two liter bottle technique" seemed a bit iffy for me, especially since her bite is potent and she's a speed demon. That and the fact that one bend of the cardboard and you have a loose spider.
Now I came up with what I would call the "Bag Transfer Technique" and it worked like a dream. I did some searches and didn't find anything, so maybe I'm the first to post this? Either way I think this should make it into the sticky section. Hint Hint. :}

Ok, so first this will work with terrestrial or arboreal.

1. Take out any hides or bark, watering dishes with your forceps.





2. Take a clear plastic bag that will fit over both the old enclosure and the new one.



3. Remove the cover and quickly put your bag over and secure it with a rubber band.



4. Turn your container on its side. Be careful not to get too much substrate in the bag.



5. Coax the tarantula through the bag with your forceps into far end of the bag and grip the end nearest the rubber band with a tight fist.



6. Pull away from the bag with the tight fist and remove the rubber band. Keep a tight fist around the bag's mouth the entire time. Your tarantula should be at the bottom of the bag now.



7. Take the end you hold with a tight fist and put that end over the new enclosure with a rubber band. All the while WATCH WHERE YOUR TARANTULA IS !!! Make sure when you are read to transfer you have the bag secured to the new enclosure with a rubber band and your tarantula is still near the bottom of the bag.



8. Coax your tarantula from the bottom of the bag into its new container.



9. Quickly remove the rubber band holding the bag and put your top on the new and bigger enclosure for your tarantula to grow and be happy.



Some basic premises to ensure success:
Never get frightened. Remember, you are the boss. If the tarantula is not going where you want it to go. Coax it through the bag with your forceps. It will go where you want it. As long as you keep the bag between you and the tarantula, this method works like a dream.
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PrettyHate

PrettyHate

Arachnobaron
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Avic Poop.

This is Avic Poop. Not bug/cricket/roach eggs, parasite eggs, salt, mold, fungus etc. Just poop!

DSC02431.jpg
 
X

XsospoonX

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xhexdx said:
So I thought I would try and put links and information collected over the years into one thread, to try and make it easier for new members to find answers to all the simple questions asked over and over and over again, and also for all of us veterans to be able to have quick "reference" as well as something to direct the new members to when they ask for help.

So, here's a quick table of contents and hopefully this will end up as a sticky! ;)

Table of Contents:​

  • Anything and Everything About G. rosea (Chilean Rose Hair)
    • Post #2
  • Basic Tarantula Anatomy
    • Post #3
  • Premolt and Molting
    • Post #4
  • Scientific Name Pronunciation
    • Post #5
  • Substrate Choices and Preferences
    • Post #6
  • Enclosure Choices and Preferences
    • Post #7
  • "What species should I get next?"
    • Post #8
  • Roaches vs Crickets vs Mealworms vs Everything Else
    • Post #9
  • Communal Setups
    • Post #10
  • Hybridization
    • Post #11
  • "I want a spider that..."
    • Post #12
  • Species Care Sheets
    • Post #13
  • Shipping
    • Post #14
  • Feeding Schedules/Quantities
    • Post #15
  • Heat Mats/Lamps/Packs
    • Post #16
  • Old World/New World
    • Post #17
  • Species List Without Tibial Spurs
    • Post #18
  • General Good Reading
    • Post #19

I'm sure I'll be adding more to the Table of Contents as this thread matures.
Click to expand...
thanks for putting this together!
 
Tarantula Ben

Tarantula Ben

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 7, 2017
Messages
8
Hi everyone I am new to arachnoboards here but have read many threads and posts to keep up on my tarantulas. I got my first T. Back in may last year and I was an enthusiast ever since, now I got 6, 2 adults, 1 juvenile, and 3 slings. I have a question and my acanthoscurria geniculata (brazilian giant white knee) sling, about a 1/2" dls. I got the T. Almost 2 mo. Ago and it has not molted since I got her. (I'm using "her/ she" loosely as I won't know the sex until it gets older.) She is a burrower as they usually are until they get older, but she refuses to eat for about a month now and it looks like she closed up her burrow a little bit. Is that a tell tale sign that she is about to molt soon? Has anybody ever experienced this situation with a sling not molting? Any feedback will begreat

P.s. I'm not worried or any thing like that I just want to know if anyone ever beenthrough this phase with a sling

My 6 arachnids are: AcanthoscurriaGeniculata, Aphonopelma Seemanni,Aphonopelma Hentzi, Brachypelma Smithi, Chromotopelma Cyaneopuebesences, andGrammostola Pulchripes.
 
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