Problem with small enclosures

[Vanessa]

Anyway... may i ask you if you know how that Centipede escaped?

I don't know. But the one time he had them in the pet shop when I was getting crickets - he had them out handling them. He just took them out with the tongs and they were running around on his arm.
I took two big steps back, that's for sure. I didn't want him flinging it at me if it bit him.
He had two that he was handling - a blue one and an orange one. I thought he was crazy and I told him that. Then a couple of weeks later he had lost the big one. I don't even know if he ever found it.

 

[Chris LXXIX]

I don't know. But the one time he had them in the pet shop when I was getting crickets - he had them out handling them. He just took them out with the tongs and they were running around on his arm.
I took two big steps back, that's for sure. I didn't want him flinging it at me if it bit him.
He had two that he was handling - a blue one and an orange one. I thought he was crazy and I told him that. Then a couple of weeks later he had lost the big one. I don't even know if he ever found it.

That's too bad. If he's into handling and the Centipede escaped for that, he should consider himself lucky that didn't get envenomated, because he asked for such scenario.

 

[Poec54]

A Black Mamba or a O Hanna (for instance, on the loose as well) on the other hand, would literally hunt down everything that moves.

Only if you've gotten too close in the first place. Other than that, they're not looking for trouble with humans. Their focus is on what keeps the species going: food and reproduction. I had a snake friend in Tampa who bred both of those species. He kept his whole collection (which was extensive) in two bedrooms (one being the room he slept in), and the cages weren't large. Tight space to work in. He did that for many years without incident.

 

[BobBarley]

Yeah.. What the hell do you guys know. All you guys do is put your T's in cups, and shit. By the time I get a chance to get a cup and get my T here, all the T's will be gone.

LMAO !!!!

Not quite.

I understand what everyone is talking about. I actually do read 99% of everyone replies.

I'm having fun reading the posts. I wish people would give me more information, or show me where to go to get some accurate info on the humidity levels and temperatures I need to keep them at, etc. etc.

I haven't read a single mean comment. Trust me, I know if it's mean or not.. or at least I think I do.

Almost every species of t can be kept at room temp. If you're comfortable, they are. (unless you live in a 95 degree house or something like that) Humidity is different for each species. The biggest mistake people make is looking at caresheets. Don't even read them. Anything that gives you a specific humidity for a t is wrong. Search up the care requirements of a certain species on Arachnoboards, and more often than not, you'll get some detailed answers.

 

[Chris LXXIX]

Only if you've gotten too close in the first place. Other than that, they're not looking for trouble with humans. Their focus is on what keeps the species going: food and reproduction. I had a snake friend in Tampa who bred both of those species. He kept his whole collection (which was extensive) in two bedrooms (one being the room he slept in), and the cages weren't large. Tight space to work in. He did that for many years without incident.

Yes, but i was talking about a Mamba (example) on the loose. Completely out of his/her cage, not well secured inside... on the loose in my room, seriously... ?

Of course the snake will enter in contact with me, and fast, i assume. Or am i wrong?

Will strike down in a second one of my cats, something that a Centipede, or that 'Pokie' high on the wall, or in the corner, no matter, wouldn't do at all.

I doubt that a King Cobra, or a Mamba, once out and out of control, would crawl scared under the bed or furnitures seeking for a safe refuge.
They will attack. That's how i imagine those animals behavior on such situations.

Could be wrong of course but, even if an escape never happened to me, trust me that the cold blood i would have around 'Baboon' or Asian T's/Inverts on the loose, would turn in a millisecond into "jump out of the window" in the case of a Black Mamba :-s

 

[TownesVanZandt]

Yes, but i was talking about a Mamba (example) on the loose. Completely out of his/her cage, not well secured inside... on the loose in my room, seriously... ?

If you had a mamba on the loose in your room, my friend, I bet you would have made "Pippo" Inzaghi from his Juventus days seem slow as a turtle running out of there

 

[Chris LXXIX]

If you had a mamba on the loose in your room, my friend, I bet you would have made "Pippo" Inzaghi from his Juventus days seem slow as a turtle running out of there

Damn still today he's IMO the unbeated man when it comes to play striking fast in the last meters, dancing on the offside line :-s

 

[TownesVanZandt]

Damn still today he's IMO the unbeated man when it comes to play striking fast in the last meters, dancing on the offside line :-s

Even today, with 42 years, I believe he would have done better up front for Italy than Graziano Pellé or Ciro Immobile!

 

[Chris LXXIX]

Even today, with 42 years, I believe he would have done better up front for Italy than Graziano Pellé or Ciro Immobile!

No doubts. This team of today is laughable :-s

 

[Vanessa]

Since everyone here is experienced, I think instead of me going off to learn about how to care for a tarantula, or scorpion, maybe it would be best if you guys spoke up. Instead of me watching a video on YouTube from other people.

Not all YouTube videos are created equal. Some of them are pretty good, pretty accurate, and made by people who respect tarantulas and are respected in the hobby. Unfortunately, you have to weed through all the idiots out there who have them for all the wrong reasons and make stupid videos thinking they're going to get famous and have their own reality television show or something.
There are a lot of wonderful species out there that are extremely hardy for new comers. If you are only interested in having a couple who can go into your custom enclosures immediately - I would be on the lookout for juveniles or adults. I started out in the hobby with adults only. It is expensive, but they are out of the delicate spiderling stage at that point and can just be placed in their permanent homes.
There are dozens of posts here which list all the wonderful species that are more than appropriate for people just entering the hobby. You'll find countless photos of people's collections. Go through those and get a list ready of the species that you're interested in. Then ask about them or search the forum for more husbandry posts for those spiders specifically.
You did come on pretty strong in the beginning. Combine that with the fact that there are some equally strong active members here and it is a mess waiting to happen. I'm sure that you have lots to offer this forum if you stick around and get a feel for it.
Getting some people on the defensive on this forum is easier than getting a threat pose from an OBT by poking it with a pencil.

 

[Chris LXXIX]

Getting some people on the defensive on this forum is easier than getting a threat pose from an OBT by poking it with a pencil.

Ah ah <3

 

[Tenevanica]

I must ask @Roy1982, what tarantula species you have in mind? As stated before, there is no one-size-fits-all approach to keeping T's. Each one has its own requirements, but most of the beginner species require dry substrate, low-moderate humidity, and room temperature.

Also, Hadrus arizonensis (Desert Hairy) is a good beginner scorpion from what I know, so good choice there!

 

[Venom1080]

Still here. I'll all ears. I would like to hear whatever anyone has to tell me, or explain to me.

alright, care sheets are crap. dont listen to them. humidity levels are crap. dont go chasing off after that magic number, idont own any hydrometers or temp gauges and never plan to as they are unneeded and a waste of money. temps 70-80 are perfect. anything higher up to 95f is ok but unnecessary. good beginner spiders generally come from the new world. particularly Mexico and Chile. Ts like cages they can feel secure in, a T can settle in a giant cage, (anything over a 20 gallon) but its a waste of space and money. they feel secure in small dark hides that arent very big but allow them to move a a bit. not cramped but small. a good substrate would be coco fiber(eco earth), peat moss, or plain topsoil.(without any additives) Ts can be very different, a giant Poecilotheria living in a tree has different requirements than a ground dwelling G. porteri. generally, all Ts require a water dish, a hide, 70-80 temps, no heat mats or heat lamps, food depends on the size of the spider. a spiderling, or "sling" requires small food items frequently, i feed my slings 2-5 times a week. a juvi, sub adult and adult require larger food items, but much less frequently. most care is common sense, but as Viper says, common sense aint common! a acrlic lid is best if the Ts going in a tank. basically, Ts sometimes have difficulty getting off screen lids when climbing, their claws get hooked and they dangle and sometimes lose a leg. the next step is to pick out your first spider so we can give you specific care. i recommend getting a juvi sub adult, or adult as your first so you dont have to wait for growth so much. i recommend genus Brachypelma, Grammostola, Avicularia, Euathlus, Chomatopelma, Aphonopelma. good luck picking just one!

 

[viper69]

Sometimes what we're most afraid of is the least likely to harm us.

So very true.

 

[Roy1982]

Almost every species of t can be kept at room temp. If you're comfortable, they are. (unless you live in a 95 degree house or something like that) Humidity is different for each species. The biggest mistake people make is looking at caresheets. Don't even read them. Anything that gives you a specific humidity for a t is wrong. Search up the care requirements of a certain species on Arachnoboards, and more often than not, you'll get some detailed answers.

That's what I heard.

alright, care sheets are crap. dont listen to them. humidity levels are crap. don't go chasing off after that magic number, idont own any hydrometers or temp gauges and never plan to as they are unneeded and a waste of money. temps 70-80 are perfect. anything higher up to 95f is ok but unnecessary. good beginner spiders generally come from the new world. particularly Mexico and Chile. Ts like cages they can feel secure in, a T can settle in a giant cage, (anything over a 20 gallon) but its a waste of space and money. they feel secure in small dark hides that arent very big but allow them to move a bit. not cramped but small. a good substrate would be coco fiber(eco earth), peat moss, or plain topsoil.(without any additives) Ts can be very different, a giant Poecilotheria living in a tree has different requirements than a ground dwelling G. porteri. generally, all Ts require a water dish, a hide, 70-80 temps, no heat mats or heat lamps, food depends on the size of the spider. a spiderling, or "sling" requires small food items frequently, i feed my slings 2-5 times a week. a juvi, sub adult and adult require larger food items, but much less frequently. most care is common sense, but as Viper says, common sense aint common! a acrylic lid is best if the Ts going in a tank. basically, Ts sometimes have difficulty getting off screen lids when climbing, their claws get hooked and they dangle and sometimes lose a leg. the next step is to pick out your first spider so we can give you specific care. i recommend getting a juvi sub adult, or adult as your first so you don't have to wait for growth so much. i recommend genus Brachypelma, Grammostola, Avicularia, Euathlus, Chomatopelma, Aphonopelma. good luck picking just one!

01. Don't look at care sheets. Got it.
02. Don't chase numbers. Don't buy a Arduino and regulate the temp and humidity with arduino automated systems. Got it.
03. Don't get a Hydrometer, thermometer. I will. Just because I wanna know what the humidity is and temp inside the box. But that doesn't mean I'm going to chase after numbers. I just wanna make sure the numbers are reasonable.
04. Temperatures ranging between 70-80 are perfect. Got it.
05. Enclosure 2x -3x the leg span of the T is good. Not too big of a an enclosure, because they like to feel secure. Got it.
06. 95°F is alright, but unnecessary. That's too hot, if it gets there, I'll try to bring it down.
07. Bigger cage, enclosure is alright, but it's a waste of money. They like to feel secure, and don't need anything larger than 2x - 3x their leg span.
08. Shallow water dish. half log or similar hiding place. No heat mats or heat lamps, unless it's a Scorpion.
09. I'll feed him only about 2 times a week, don't want to spoil him. Crickets, meal worms, etc.
10. Screens are hard sometimes for the Tarantula to get off, so No screens. Got it.
11. Goliath Birdeater. That's what I might go with. (LINK : https://goo.gl/7yNjMQ) Might be, but there's other bird eaters too, so it doesn't have to be that one.
According to Jamie, it's a female, and 2", so.. maybe not.. Beautiful T though. It's a female, so.. Idk.. might, or might not.

How about this one.. https://goo.gl/IyzA4o Juvie..? He's 1.5" - 2.0", according to Jamie.

Same Tarantula that was in Jungle 2 Jungle (1997)... Lol.

12. I also might be going with a Scorpion too. Emperor Scorpion. Heat lamp or Mat, Sand, they like to burrow. I watched a couple care videos. It's not that hard, just like the Tarantula. But they do need heat mats, etc. From what I heard. A Temp Controller & heat mat. Need to add moisture to the substrate daily, because obviously the heat mat is going to dry out the sand & substrate combo. etc. etc. etc.
13. ...

Not all YouTube videos are created equal. Some of them are pretty good, pretty accurate, and made by people who respect tarantulas and are respected in the hobby. Unfortunately, you have to weed through all the idiots out there who have them for all the wrong reasons and make stupid videos thinking they're going to get famous and have their own reality television show or something.
There are a lot of wonderful species out there that are extremely hardy for new comers. If you are only interested in having a couple who can go into your custom enclosures immediately - I would be on the lookout for juveniles or adults. I started out in the hobby with adults only. It is expensive, but they are out of the delicate spiderling stage at that point and can just be placed in their permanent homes.
There are dozens of posts here which list all the wonderful species that are more than appropriate for people just entering the hobby. You'll find countless photos of people's collections. Go through those and get a list ready of the species that you're interested in. Then ask about them or search the forum for more husbandry posts for those spiders specifically.
You did come on pretty strong in the beginning. Combine that with the fact that there are some equally strong active members here and it is a mess waiting to happen. I'm sure that you have lots to offer this forum if you stick around and get a feel for it.
Getting some people on the defensive on this forum is easier than getting a threat pose from an OBT by poking it with a pencil.

Totally.

I must ask @Roy1982, what tarantula species you have in mind? As stated before, there is no one-size-fits-all approach to keeping T's. Each one has its own requirements, but most of the beginner species require dry substrate, low-moderate humidity, and room temperature.

Also, Hadrus arizonensis (Desert Hairy) is a good beginner scorpion from what I know, so good choice there!

Goliath Birdeater,
Emperor Scorpion, Desert Hairies 99% of the time sting their prey, they burrow, and they are known to be aggressive and defensive. Doesn't mean I'm not going to get one also, but.. I might want to go with a Emperor Scorpion.

I have more info in a reply to someone else, it has links and stuff. look back and you'll find it. Two posts up.

 

[Tenevanica]

Goliath Birdeater,
Emperor Scorpion, Desert Hairies 99% of the time sting their prey, they burrow, and they are known to be aggressive and defensive. Doesn't mean I'm not going to get one also, but.. I might want to go with a Emperor Scorpion.

I have more info in a reply to someone else, it has links and stuff. look back and you'll find it.

May I suggest you get a Lasyodora parahybana? Theraphosa blondi (goliath birdeater) is an INCREDIBLY difficult species to care for. This species does need high humidity, a very specific setup, and they frequently have molting issues. DO NOT start with T. blondi. You will more than likely kill it.

I mentioned earlier L. parahybana (salmon pink birdeater, but it's still not best to use common names) are suitable for beginners, and get nearly as large. A 10" leg span wouldn't be uncommon in L. parahybana, and they're much better suited to the beginner.

Also, there are too many birdeaters. It gets confusing, so we use scientific names on these boards. As for the scorpions, both H. arizonensis, and P. imperator are good beginner species.

 

[Vanessa]

Okay, so the species that you linked to is a Nhandu chromatus, or N. chromatus. It is best to make reference to their scientific name because the term 'Birdeater' is applied to many species and the common name of Goliath Birdeater is reserved for the Theraphosa genus.
N. chromatus is a bit more of an intermediate species. They are a bit more defensive and their hairs are very irritating. I don't have any of the genus, so I will leave it to others who do to answer specific questions about them.
Males generally live a lot shorter than females do. Most people will opt for the female.

 

[Tenevanica]

Okay, so the species that you linked to is a Nhandu chromatus, or N. chromatus. It is best to make reference to their scientific name because the term 'Birdeater' is applied to many species and the common name of Goliath Birdeater is reserved for the Theraphosa genus.
N. chromatus is a bit more of an intermediate species. They are a bit more defensive and their hairs are very irritating. I don't have any of the genus, so I will leave it to others who do to answer specific questions about them.
Males generally live a lot shorter than females do. Most people will opt for the female.

Did he? I didn't even see the link. God, common names are confusing as hell!

To the OP, say it with me: Lasiodora - parahybana. Lasiodora - parahybana.

 

[Roy1982]

May I suggest you get a Lasyodora parahybana? Theraphosa blondi (goliath birdeater) is an INCREDIBLY difficult species to care for. This species does need high humidity, a very specific setup, and they frequently have molting issues. DO NOT start with T. blondi. You will more than likely kill it.

I mentioned earlier L. parahybana (salmon pink birdeater, but it's still not best to use common names) are suitable for beginners, and get nearly as large. A 10" leg span wouldn't be uncommon in L. parahybana, and they're much better suited to the beginner.

Also, there are too many birdeaters. It gets confusing, so we use scientific names on these boards. As for the scorpions, both H. arizonensis, and P. imperator are good beginner species.

Like this..?
https://jamiestarantulas.com/lasiodora-parahybana-salmon-pink-bird-eater-3-4-male-552/

He's 4" in size already.. how long is he going to live for? Get's up to 8" leg span.

Okay, so the species that you linked to is a Nhandu chromatus, or N. chromatus. It is best to make reference to their scientific name because the term 'Birdeater' is applied to many species and the common name of Goliath Birdeater is reserved for the Theraphosa genus.
N. chromatus is a bit more of an intermediate species. They are a bit more defensive and their hairs are very irritating. I don't have any of the genus, so I will leave it to others who do to answer specific questions about them.
Males generally live a lot shorter than females do. Most people will opt for the female.

I will use Scientific names + (Common name, if available) from now on.

 

[Tenevanica]

Like this..?
https://jamiestarantulas.com/lasiodora-parahybana-salmon-pink-bird-eater-3-4-male-552/

He's 4" in size already.. how long is he going to live for? Get's up to 8" leg span.

Yes, that's the species! Males don't live very long. He'll mature in a year or so, and likely only live a year after that. Get a female if you can.