Harpactira Pulchripes Bite ? Extremely bad ?

Rabid Mouse

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jun 17, 2017
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13
Op, these concerns actually made me chuckle a little bit.

Here's a hard and fast rule...NW have mild venom (Psalmopeous have stronger venom and are really the lone exception, although certainly not medically significant at all...just painful)....OW do not have mild venom, with the vast majority possessing what one might deem medically significant venom.

OWs have no urticating hairs...ALL NWs have them (as you are no doubt fully aware). How bad a species is will be dependent on the individual keeper....For instance, I am particularly vulnerable to A. avic hairs...most are not...Nhandu hairs don't really bother me, but they drive a lot of people bonkers.

What you should be asking with regards to hairs is their propensity for flicking...while it is also an individual variance...there are also some species known to be pretty crazy about it...like B. boehmei or T. ockerti for example.



You mean...like...a white guy??
Usefull information ... I think ill leave off the OWs then :( ... Think I might be unpopular if it escaped to the neighbours and bit their little kid ? A week of Pain and Puking doesent sound too much fun and the Boss man probably wont be too understanding of taking off work to Suffer from "self inflicted" bite ? Got some D.Diaamentinensis in my sight ( 1 to 1,5 cm .... ) Possbly 1 or 2 Cyriocosmos Chicoi ....
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
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4,099
Usefull information ... I think ill leave off the OWs then
There are plenty of beautiful New World species to enjoy that won't give you crippling pain if you are bitten.

Everyone has to decide for himself what level of risk is personally acceptable. You aren't less of (or more of) a keeper just because you don't have (or do have) Old World species in your collection.
 

Rabid Mouse

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jun 17, 2017
Messages
13
There are plenty of beautiful New World species to enjoy that won't give you crippling pain if you are bitten.

Everyone has to decide for himself what level of risk is personally acceptable. You aren't less of (or more of) a keeper just because you don't have (or do have) Old World species in your collection.
After a bit more looking around there does seem to be tons of awesome, colourful New Worlds ... Just living in Germany the Harpactira Pulchripes would have been cheaper then in most countries, as the first ones were smuggled here and I do originally come from South Africa ,so it would have been nice to have a South African Spider that looks Awesome.
 

Moonohol

Two Legged Freak
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Aug 8, 2016
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115
After a bit more looking around there does seem to be tons of awesome, colourful New Worlds ... Just living in Germany the Harpactira Pulchripes would have been cheaper then in most countries, as the first ones were smuggled here and I do originally come from South Africa ,so it would have been nice to have a South African Spider that looks Awesome.
If you really want an H. pulchripes, just work your way up to it. Once you feel comfortable with basic NWs, move on to a Psalmo or Tapi. After getting acclimated to their speed and skittishness, it's really not far of a leap to the baboon spiders. H. pulchripes are seriously awesome... it's well worth putting in the work to keep one.
 

KezyGLA

Arachnoking
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
3,013
After a bit more looking around there does seem to be tons of awesome, colourful New Worlds ... Just living in Germany the Harpactira Pulchripes would have been cheaper then in most countries, as the first ones were smuggled here and I do originally come from South Africa ,so it would have been nice to have a South African Spider that looks Awesome.
Awesome place to hail from ;)

.. but Germany would certainly not be one of the cheapest place to get Harpactira pulchripes. Full of crooks over there :rolleyes:
 

boina

Lady of the mites
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Awesome place to hail from ;)

.. but Germany would certainly not be one of the cheapest place to get Harpactira pulchripes. Full of crooks over there :rolleyes:
Hey, come on, there are some really nice and fair breeders over here, too!! You just need to know who it is...
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
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Dec 8, 2006
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I heard somewhere on Y.Tube the "Golden Blue Foot Baboon" had a horrible bite with sickness and pain for over a week ? Hopefully someone can tell me something different cause otherwise theyre rather awesome looking and apparently docile !
They are as docile as a Great White Shark, have fun!
 

darkness975

Latrodectus
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Aug 31, 2012
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Somewhere I heard that the people who dive with great whites avoid the ones that attack the boat till theyre toothless , and try their luck with calmer ones ?
Ich habe das nie gesehen o_O

Regarding your inquiry: better to play it safe than sorry. If you have to wonder too much about hypothetical situations it might be best to hold off until you relocate at some point or things change.

Cheers!
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
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18,817
Somewhere I heard that the people who dive with great whites avoid the ones that attack the boat till theyre toothless , and try their luck with calmer ones ?
You heard wrong. To be fair they are not mindless eating machines. As an apex predator they are beautiful animals. Unfortunately little is known about their behavior. The way they see if something is food, is by taking a test bite. For people, that test bite results in death more often than not.
 

Rabid Mouse

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jun 17, 2017
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13
Venom is less significant than OW and in my experience the hairs aren't bad, kinda like the itch from hairs after a haircut but we're all different...
Here's my boy (Zelda) Pamphobeteus Vespertinus who is a MM and sadly starting to slow down :(
View attachment 243986
I wouldn't recommend handling them but as I say he's quite slow these days..
What are the lifespans of Males .... Females ?
 

Whitelightning777

Arachno-heretic
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Feb 9, 2017
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399
My male was 1 inch when I got him in January. He hooked out yesterday. Generally, I feed mine when they exhibit signs of hunger. The temperment is that he's wicked fast. I've seen him throw the occasional threat posture if a feeder surprises him but not one single sign of aggression to me.

My L klugi has thrown threat postures when her hide got to small.

My T stirmi has thrown multiple hissy fits, far more defensive.

My male is only at most 4 inches long. It'll be interesting getting him packed up for shipping, which will be the very first time.

In my opinion, they are a good second terrestrial, especially if your first one was a very pouncy or defensive NW.

Start with a sling and grow with the spider & you'll be just fine.

They are worth every penny and very easy to keep.

This is a dry spider so never overflow the water dish. If you notice mold, change out the substrate as soon as possible.

Make sure you lift the water dish out and detach any webbing or it'll wick water away into the substrate.

Basically, just keep it like a rose hair. If you start with a Lasiodora species and observe the high feeding response, you'll have the fundamentals.

Use barriers like large totes in bathroom etc whenever you rehouse & never ever ever handle them.

H pulchripes Hybris rehouse 4.jpg H pulchripes what sex 1.jpg
 

Ultum4Spiderz

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
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Oct 13, 2011
Messages
6,102
I heard somewhere on Y.Tube the "Golden Blue Foot Baboon" had a horrible bite with sickness and pain for over a week ? Hopefully someone can tell me something different cause otherwise theyre rather awesome looking and apparently docile !
I’d advise not petting the tarantula, it’s easy to get bit. If you got one that’s aggressive most of my old worlders are more skittish .
My nhando chromatus are just as angry usually as my obt. had many threats from this species my males have been exceptional mad.
Means leave me alone haha, that’s how most all adult baboons act.
All dependable on then specimen my L klugi is docile his was mean.
Different T different personalities, but a docile T when provoked will bite . They get mood swings even .:punch:
 
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Whitelightning777

Arachno-heretic
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Feb 9, 2017
Messages
399
A paintbrush and catch cup are your friends, best of all friends actually.

If you go to dark den's website on YouTube, he has methods that are foolproof for transferring and dealing with fast tarantulas.


Tom Moran also demonstrates how to use the cupping method.

One additional trick I use, not sure how many others do, is to use temperature.

Obtain an ice cooler big enough to fit the entire enclosure or whatever the tarantula is contained with inside.

Obtain an accurate digital thermometer.

Fill the cooler about one quarter full with cool water. Add ice and mix until you get it down to 60 degrees. Remove any remaining ice and measure it again. If it's colder, slowly add warm water and mix. Place the entire enclosure inside for 3 to 5 hours. You might have to use styrofoam blocks to keep water from physically getting inside.

For the new enclosure, warm up whatever hide you are going to use between 90 to 100 degrees. If the hide is small enough, you can simply throw it down your shirt.

Place the warm objects into the T's cage. Immediately transfer the tarantula to it's new enclosure & guide it to the warm object.

The T will stop and hang out for at least a minute or so, plenty of time to close the door.

The object will cool quickly and that temp isn't high enough to cause harm since no extra heat is being added. It's no different then someone walking around with a tarantula on their shoulder or head, except there's no escape or fall hazards.

Alternatively, you can use a cool night in place of a cooler.
 
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