Cheap Enclosure <$8.16 (9"x4"x4")

[123rc123]

So I talked earlier about making a cheap enclosure out of a hobby lobby model enclosure and it worked fantastic! I need to learn not to drop Acrylic solvent everywhere , but fantastic!
Case 7.99-3.19=4.80
Hasp - 0.92
Hinge - 0.92*2=1.84
Reusable item I chalk up to at least 10 more enclosures (super, ultra underestimate)
Glue - 6.00/10= 0.60

I spent about 3 hours tops making this guy
Total $8.15
View attachment 205120
Here's my new little beauty:
View attachment 205121

What did you use for the background? how did you construct it? Where did you get it?

 

[123rc123]

Sure thing, I'm actually going to make a 10x10x10 soon and have instructions in the making that I was going to post for anyone to use. There are about 5 different sized cases all for under $12 at hobby lobby (after 40% off) and depending on the hole pattern, you can have this too:
View attachment 205165
Here's my concept art for a couple of the sizes:
View attachment 205168

what is the product called at hobby lobby?

 

[bryverine]

what is the product called at hobby lobby?

I'll add these to the instructions I think:
1.) 13" x 5 1/2" x 5" Standard Display Case - 902452 - 11.99
2.) 9" x 4 3/8" x 4 1/8" Standard Display Case - 637983 - 7.99
3.) Basketball/Soccer Display Case (10x10x10) - 347344 - 19.99
4) 15 1/2" x 7" x 6" Clear Display Case -243048- 14.99
5) Mini Helmet Display Case (8x6x5) - 347443 - 9.99
6)6-Piece Display Case Pack (3 1/2" x 1 3/4" x 1 5/8") - 782987 - 7.99

The background is what is zoo med cork tile: I found it at a pet shop for $15 12x12 piece. They have biger pieces (18x24) for $30 on amazon, but it was cheaper through a pet store...

 

[bryverine]

I went into Hobby Lobby based on your last thread, where I though the lids were sort of press-fit, they aren't as you told me. SO, I've only drilled holes in acrylic.

1. How and what did you use to cut the lids in making the arboreal setup ? That's the only reason I'd get them.

2. What solvent did you use, because "glue" doesn't cut it , Did you use Weld-On or...., and what was the specific catalog number and vendor?

3. In the arboreal one you made, and in the CAD drawings, there is a angular notch on only 2 sides for the aboreal containers. What's that for?

The only thing I didn't like about the case is that it wasn't deep enough for my liking. If they were as deep as a medium sized KK, I'd be all in. I still might get one and make an arboreal setup for small Avics

Oh my goodness, DONT use a jig saw! I meant scroll saw!

 

[viper69]

Oh my goodness, DONT use a jig saw! I meant scroll saw!

I thought that was odd, but I thought you knew something I didn't.

I can't wait to see the PDF file!

 

[bryverine]

I went into Hobby Lobby based on your last thread, where I though the lids were sort of press-fit, they aren't as you told me. SO, I've only drilled holes in acrylic.

1. How and what did you use to cut the lids in making the arboreal setup ? That's the only reason I'd get them.

2. What solvent did you use, because "glue" doesn't cut it , Did you use Weld-On or...., and what was the specific catalog number and vendor?

3. In the arboreal one you made, and in the CAD drawings, there is a angular notch on only 2 sides for the aboreal containers. What's that for?

The only thing I didn't like about the case is that it wasn't deep enough for my liking. If they were as deep as a medium sized KK, I'd be all in. I still might get one and make an arboreal setup for small Avics

Just an FYI. This will be for my M. robustum until it gets big enough for its adult enclosure.

 

[bryverine]

Here's my first draft at the PDF.

Let meet know if I should change anything.

 

[viper69]

I skimmed through it, but will read in detail. I already have a few questions. Will reply when I read thoroughly. I LOVE the title hahahah, the figures look pretty nice too. What software did you use?

 

[bryverine]

I skimmed through it, but will read in detail. I already have a few questions. Will reply when I read thoroughly. I LOVE the title hahahah, the figures look pretty nice too. What software did you use?

Good, I've been looking at it for so long that I can't see where to go. I also know what I mean because I've done it. A fresh set of eyes is what I need.
It's a software called CREO (Pro-E). I It's a finite element analysis software... It's kinda like using a nuke to hammer a nail, but I'm fairly good at it.

@The Snark would you mind giving my PDF a look now that I've updated it?

 

[The Snark]

@The Snark would you mind giving my PDF a look now that I've updated it?

Okay, lets take it page by page.
First page, A guide to.... change 'from' to 'for'. Not too thrilled about making cases out of critters.
3rd page, you have room. Give the names Hinges and Hasp. Sp Incrementally, (N)ote. Explain the water is to keep the work cool while drilling. Recommend a sharp file. Sandpaper can round off the edges too much too easily. A file can give the precise chamfer you want.
4th page, step 4B Sp interference.

LOOKS GOOD! It's an advanced procedure the more competent hobbyist can follow. If you were getting it out to beginners you should probably brow beat them about surface prep and how to 'glue'. You know, you don't apply glue, you fit the pieces then let it creep, applying itself.
Nice work!

 

[bryverine]

Okay, lets take it page by page.
First page, A guide to.... change 'from' to 'for'. Not too thrilled about making cases out of critters.
3rd page, you have room. Give the names Hinges and Hasp. Sp Incrementally, (N)ote. Explain the water is to keep the work cool while drilling. Recommend a sharp file. Sandpaper can round off the edges too much too easily. A file can give the precise chamfer you want.
4th page, step 4B Sp interference.

LOOKS GOOD! It's an advanced procedure the more competent hobbyist can follow. If you were getting it out to beginners you should probably brow beat them about surface prep and how to 'glue'. You know, you don't apply glue, you fit the pieces then let it creep, applying itself.
Nice work!

Thanks for the help!
I hate to admit it, but I keep alive the stereotype that engineers can't spell...

"Give the names Hinges and Hasp." Do you mean assign them to 'hinge A/B' or explain what they are?

Maybe I'll have to just add a page or two and space things out so I can add a few figures and instructions that show how glue is applied to surfaces in contact.
I guess 'apply glue' makes it seem like you actively apply it to surfaces rather than letting it do the work.

My goal is for anyone who can use a saw and file to be able to make this. I'll get started on the next revision.

 

[The Snark]

I hate to admit it, but I keep alive the stereotype that engineers can't spell...

No such thing as a perfect rough draft. They fall under the realm of Murphy's law which supersedes Ohms, Newtons, Gravity and occasionally exceeds the speed of light. The probable cause of black holes.

Give the names Hinges and Hasp." Do you mean assign them to 'hinge A/B' or explain what they are?

Three objects that aren't immediately obvious to some people are pictured and you have room to give them labels. It is best to follow a fixed format, each image having it's own nomenclature with standardized text font and placement. Again with Murphy's law. Up in the readers face obvious.

Maybe I'll have to just add a page or two and space things out so I can add a few figures and instructions that show how glue is applied to surfaces in contact.

Typical with bonding acrylics. People's brains revert to kindergarten and gobs of white glue you apply evenly to all surfaces. The concept of assembling parts before applying the bonding agent is alien, obscure and with beginners, incomprehensible.

My goal is for anyone who can use a saw and file to be able to make this.

The sharp file is critical for really precise joints.They are relatively cheap, often coming in boxes of a dozen, and with a little practice you can control the cut angle down to a couple of degrees. With thin bonding agents that are unable to fill any gaps a precise finishing cutter becomes mandatory. 400 grit+ sandpaper held firmly to a perfectly flat surface and the work moved precisely over it or the work held firmly in a vice or similar and the file applied with the precision of a watch maker.

It really helps to see a video of a pro working with acrylics. All the tedious preparation then the actual assembly that can take only minute or two.

 

[viper69]

Thanks for the help!
I hate to admit it, but I keep alive the stereotype that engineers can't spell...

"Give the names Hinges and Hasp." Do you mean assign them to 'hinge A/B' or explain what they are?

Maybe I'll have to just add a page or two and space things out so I can add a few figures and instructions that show how glue is applied to surfaces in contact.
I guess 'apply glue' makes it seem like you actively apply it to surfaces rather than letting it do the work.

My goal is for anyone who can use a saw and file to be able to make this. I'll get started on the next revision.

Correct about the glue, I would have done the wrong thing mentioned above just by reading.

Just use a spell checker

 

[The Snark]

There's a video somewhere, can't find it now, of tricks the pros use with acrylic glue. One is little 'landing pads', small pieces left uncut creating shelfs the glue can be applied to and wick into the joints. The pads get filed off later. Another is a slight chamfer, sometimes only at a few small locations, which accommodate the needle tip so the liquid gets applied within the joint and wicks from there.
Oh yes, another trick. Instead of the needle tip touching the joint it is held a little distance above and dripped precisely. A way to meter the exact amount of glue being used over a given amount of surface area.

Obviously, experience and knowing the materials is the big trick. How far can the glue wick, how big a puddle you can get away with and so on.

Right. Use a spell checker. Mine is presently flagging chamfer and suggesting chamber. Should make whoever wrote that dictionary fire a high velocity rifle with a chamfered chamber.

 

[bryverine]

Correct about the glue, I would have done the wrong thng...Just use a spell checker

I've added an Acrylic solvent 101 section.

Sadly, Pro-E doesn't have spell checker...

Now that I think about it, neither Solidworks nor AutoCAD have spell check... Who missed that in the software development?

 

[viper69]

No spellchecker? Who was asleep at the wheel on those projects haha.

I think this is a GREAT first draft actually. I LOVE the tech drawings, esp the color and hatch marks for the glue steps. I particularly liked the blown up view of the hinge w/the glue note, and the side view of the hinges Lid C blown up. I'm really impressed, it's quite professional looking.

I'm reading it now. I'm listing the questions/comments in order of each page, ie as I read/see them. I realize I could look up certain words, but chose not to as a way demonstrating the level of knowledge some people may have or not have.

1. Should the 20G needle be blunt tip, as is used for liquid dispensing? Or should it be a hyodermic as used in blood drawing?
2. What size syringe do you suggest?
3. Under HINT, what is TPI ?
4. Drill bit-- you meant a drill bit designed for drilling plastic. I know you don't mean one made of plastic (someone won't know the difference w/the incorrect grammar there)
5. What is "blade kerf" ?
6. What is " ote the names..." See Step 3
7.What is a "chamfer" and what is the "flange". I think for flange you mean the piece of the mold that extends around the perimeter of the lid right?

I think Step 3 needs more explaining. I'm handy to a degree, but I'm honestly not sure how to do that. I can cut straight lines for Lid A and Lid B hah, but the other, not sure. I understand why it's done as you explained earlier in thread.

8. For Step 4b, I think you should note if the user should check the fitting of lid C after Lid A is glued, OR does one check after BOTH Lid A and Lid B are glued? I would think one would do both actually. You have to remember some people won't even know how to drill hah.
9. The measurement of 0.19, what are the units? Regardless, they should be metric in my opinion, much easier to measure with.
10. Does the 0.19 distance represent the distance between the bottom of the red hasp in Step 6a and the bottom edge? I assume so. Remember, not everyone can read technical drawings, including myself at times.
11. How long to let the glue set?

 

[bryverine]

No spellchecker? Who was asleep at the wheel on those projects haha.

I think this is a GREAT first draft actually. I LOVE the tech drawings, esp the color and hatch marks for the glue steps. I particularly liked the blown up view of the hinge w/the glue note, and the side view of the hinges Lid C blown up. I'm really impressed, it's quite professional looking.

I'm reading it now. I'm listing the questions/comments in order of each page, ie as I read/see them. I realize I could look up certain words, but chose not to as a way demonstrating the level of knowledge some people may have or not have.

1. Should the 20G needle be blunt tip, as is used for liquid dispensing? Or should it be a hyodermic as used in blood drawing?
2. What size syringe do you suggest?
3. Under HINT, what is TPI ?
4. Drill bit-- you meant a drill bit designed for drilling plastic. I know you don't mean one made of plastic (someone won't know the difference w/the incorrect grammar there)
5. What is "blade kerf" ?
6. What is " ote the names..." See Step 3
7.What is a "chamfer" and what is the "flange". I think for flange you mean the piece of the mold that extends around the perimeter of the lid right?

I think Step 3 needs more explaining. I'm handy to a degree, but I'm honestly not sure how to do that. I can cut straight lines for Lid A and Lid B hah, but the other, not sure. I understand why it's done as you explained earlier in thread.

8. For Step 4b, I think you should note if the user should check the fitting of lid C after Lid A is glued, OR does one check after BOTH Lid A and Lid B are glued? I would think one would do both actually. You have to remember some people won't even know how to drill hah.
9. The measurement of 0.19, what are the units? Regardless, they should be metric in my opinion, much easier to measure with.
10. Does the 0.19 distance represent the distance between the bottom of the red hasp in Step 6a and the bottom edge? I assume so. Remember, not everyone can read technical drawings, including myself at times.
11. How long to let the glue set?

This is perfect! I'll update all of these so I don't have to add a glossary of terms.
I'll be sure to address all these questions in the next draft!

 

[viper69]

This is perfect! I'll update all of these so I don't have to add a glossary of terms.
I'll be sure to address all these questions in the next draft!

Looking forward to it, much appreciated!

 

[The Snark]

Looking forward to it, much appreciated!

Likewise. Getting very interesting.

 

[The Snark]

1. Should the 20G needle be blunt tip, as is used for liquid dispensing? Or should it be a hyodermic as used in blood drawing?
2. What size syringe do you suggest?
3. Under HINT, what is TPI ?
4. Drill bit-- you meant a drill bit designed for drilling plastic. I know you don't mean one made of plastic (someone won't know the difference w/the incorrect grammar there)
5. What is "blade kerf" ?
6. What is " ote the names..." See Step 3
7.What is a "chamfer" and what is the "flange". I think for flange you mean the piece of the mold that extends around the perimeter of the lid right?

I think Step 3 needs more explaining. I'm handy to a degree, but I'm honestly not sure how to do that. I can cut straight lines for Lid A and Lid B hah, but the other, not sure. I understand why it's done as you explained earlier in thread.

8. For Step 4b, I think you should note if the user should check the fitting of lid C after Lid A is glued, OR does one check after BOTH Lid A and Lid B are glued? I would think one would do both actually. You have to remember some people won't even know how to drill hah.
9. The measurement of 0.19, what are the units? Regardless, they should be metric in my opinion, much easier to measure with.
10. Does the 0.19 distance represent the distance between the bottom of the red hasp in Step 6a and the bottom edge? I assume so. Remember, not everyone can read technical drawings, including myself at times.
11. How long to let the glue set?

The glue use is problematic. For this project recommendations can and should be made. However, manufacturers both of the acrylic materials and the adhesives, have their own recommendations which should be mentioned. IE things like high pressure injection and micro needles and so on. Sharps, medical injection needles, should be avoided as they are cut off at a severe angle and will not place the glue at the very tip.

Chamfer, kerf and so on should be given a small nomenclature section with good lucid explanations.

Any drill bit will work. However common drill bits like those used for wood may bind in the work. The moment it binds it becomes a wedge just like an axe splitting firewood. With extensive construction like drilling numerous holes people should explore drill bits made specifically for acrylics or alternatives like brad point side cutting bits.

Definitely standardize measurements. Metric is more universal.