Burrowing

Geography Guy

Arachnobaron
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Scorp_Lver said:
{D {D {D

Actually, if you didnt want rude responses, you shoul'dnt have mentioned such a large mistake, that's what sparked it.

As for not knowing the difference.

I take it you TREAT all your T's the same? IMO you should treat the faster, more defensive ones with more respect (pokies, crawshayi, blondi) but im sure sooner or later you'll be bitten by some spider, you wont have a pic, and will have no idea if it's NW or OW :embarrassed:

Well I said I KEEP them all the same I NEVER said I TREAT them all the same so I don't know where you got that from.
 

gagamboy

Arachnosquire
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i don't mean to join in, but...

you can't keep all your T's the same... some have specific needs that others do not...
 

Geography Guy

Arachnobaron
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gagamboy said:
i don't mean to join in, but...

you can't keep all your T's the same... some have specific needs that others do not...

That makes sence. But just out of my Ts, they all do well with just some substrate and a hide. The only T I have that's really different from the rest is my ornamental baboon because she is my only arboreal T at this moment. But even she never comes out of her hide.

Cheers,
 

Geography Guy

Arachnobaron
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T. blondi

Ok. I am up to about 4-5 inches for my juv T.blondi. I changed his house from a cardboard to a half circle rounded cork bark hide. But he still isn't acting like what I know a T.blondi should be. He spends a lot of time trying to climb the glass and sits on top of his cork bark. Is it nomal for a T.blondi to be out in the open most of the day?

Cheers,
 

ShadowBlade

Planeswalker
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Geography Guy said:
What exactly did you mean by this comment?
I think that was a joke on you not knowing the country your T is from being OW or NW.

I'm sure your quite capable of figuring that out though.
 

Geography Guy

Arachnobaron
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ShadowBlade said:
I think that was a joke on you not knowing the country your T is from being OW or NW.

I'm sure your quite capable of figuring that out though.

Oh. I ain't very good with jokes :( I take everything literally.

~Best Wishes~
 

Geography Guy

Arachnobaron
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Ok. After what Darkfinder said about haplopelma shutting down when stressed. I quickly scrambled to Home Depot and bought soil. My T.blondi is at now 9.5 inches of substrate. Please tell me that's ok? My H.minax is at 5.5 inches.

Cheers,
 
Last edited:

bananaman

Arachnobaron
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Feb 4, 2006
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Sounds good... now just keep the humidity up in those tanks... dont wet everything just make sure that for the blondi there is some damp substrate where it can hang, and some dry one too... for the H.minax, dampen the substrate a little very few days (note: damp, not wet).
 

angelarachnid

Arachnobaron
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Jun 25, 2004
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I cannot believe some of the things i have read here.

OK knowing if its OW or NW is very important Knowing the country it is from is even more important, the area where they are from is even more important still,

WHY?

So you can adjust the habitat so that they get the (in some species) esential wet and dry seasons, or winter summer seasons. Believe me there are some species which will not take to living in a wet tank all year round and others which must be damp at least part of the year, Grammastolas need a cool period to breed etc. P. subfusca needs conditioning for breeding, as do most other pokes.

The thread was on Burrowing,

With the exception of a few specimens which are sometimes found under logs etc almost every specimen of every species lives in a burrow, again the exceptions here are mainly some South American species which live in pretty stoney habitats so live in scrapes under stones, Grammastola, Acanthoscurria sp (Arentinia, Paraguay, Uruguay) but some specimens will also make burrows given the chance.

This also goes back to what i said on another thread about housing your spiders properly, give A. seemani a night time drop and a good 12" of dirt and it will burrow, and links to another thread where someone was talking about cracked glass tanks and an older thread regarding temperature/thermostats.

If your spiders containers are kept in thermostaticly controled heated cabinets then by giving them a similar temp range they will start to act more naturally IE: BURROW

I have found that one of the best containers for arboreals and most smaller ground dwellers adult (seemani and smaller) is a 5L plastic cerial container (yep another BTS article) they give the height for arboreals (i breed poks in them) and great for burrowers giving the depth.

Creating temperature gradiaents etc for heated cabinets (and how to make one) is yep you guessed it another future BTS journal article (in Prep).

Ray
 

Becca

Arachnoknight
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Jun 9, 2003
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286
Hi Ray,

I've considered keeping my A.chalcodes in a cereal container (she's no bigger than about 4") to allow it to burrow more (petpals are a bit rubbish for that as I've found out rather quickly) however i have wondered if the width of the containers are too small to allow for things such as breeding and general walking around?
Or is that a little offtopic placing this here? =\ I guess it is about burrowing...
 

angelarachnid

Arachnobaron
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>>however i have wondered if the width of the containers are too small to >>allow for things such as breeding and general walking around?

Hi Becca,

what i would do (what i would have done if i had any terrestrials left in these containers) is get a strong cardboard box maybe 3 ply (2 layers of corrugation) and make a hole in the box the same size as the area of the food container under the lip where the lid goes on.

This would then allow the male to have room to wander about/escape the female when breeding.

As for general husbandry i ahve noticed that most spiders stay in thier burrows/tubes when well fed, if she is out she is looking for food or sex.

Ray
 
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