Budget Friendly Acrylic Enclosures

Stu Macher

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For non adults yes, I haven’t checked Dollar general yet or Walmart . All my pretzel jars for adult arboreals are gone 10+ of them .
You need to check out the long sterilites for your big dudes. Their like 24" and $7. The clarity isn't great but their practical and stackable lol. All my pamphos and phormics will be going into that eventually. For now they are in the size below. Same length as the shoeboxes but wider.
 

Ultum4Spiderz

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You need to check out the long sterilites for your big dudes. Their like 24" and $7. The clarity isn't great but their practical and stackable lol. All my pamphos and phormics will be going into that eventually. For now they are in the size below. Same length as the shoeboxes but wider.
dang !! Cheap !!
I will in need a Job but I can’t sleep , for now I have enough aquariums & kritter keepers .i need thin enough plastic /acyrlic to insert under my lids .
 
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sschind

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You're going to be hard pressed to find a container with that clarity. I found a clearish (not crystal clear) one at hobby lobby a while back and it was on sale for like $10. Regular price was $20 and some change I believe. You can always check out hobby lobby
If you have one near you Home Goods has some pretty cool containers that would probably make decent enclosures as well. Pretty good prices too.
 

Stu Macher

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If you have one near you Home Goods has some pretty cool containers that would probably make decent enclosures as well. Pretty good prices too.
Theres a market for cheap clear enclosures that you can add ventilation to. Clear bins, clear mainstay types. Go all the way up to 2gal+ but taller. Increase the durability a bit to make them last. Not even acrylic or magnetic closing. Either twist caps or clips. I've yet to see anyone go after this. If I were a millionaire I'd make prototypes.
 

sschind

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Theres a market for cheap clear enclosures that you can add ventilation to. Clear bins, clear mainstay types. Go all the way up to 2gal+ but taller. Increase the durability a bit to make them last. Not even acrylic or magnetic closing. Either twist caps or clips. I've yet to see anyone go after this. If I were a millionaire I'd make prototypes.
I'm sure as hobbyists many of us come up with ideas that would make for great products but we just don't have the resources to make them work. I applaud those who do.

One thing I've always said I would like to do if I ever started making cages, larger cages for snakes and lizards and such, not for T's, is change the dimensions so they fit commercially available hardware racks. Right now I have 10 of those wire racks with the round pole and I love them. The problem is there is so much wasted space. A 48" wide rack only has about 45.5 inches between the uprights. Most cages are 48" wide so they don't fit. If you use a 36" wide cage you have 10 inches of wasted space that just attracts clutter. I'd make the cages 3" shorter and maybe an inch or two wider. You'd have essentially the same volume but you could utilize space much more efficiently. For me now its not a big deal because I only have 2 larger snake cages and small cages for inverts can be made to fit but back when I had more snakes and lizards it was an issue.

Likewise, if I was a manufacturer of storage totes I would make sure that multiples of my products would fit on such shelving. 3 15" wide totes would fit on a 48" shelf but most totes are around 16" wide. Same with even smaller containers. Make them 11.25 inches wide instead of 12 or 5.5" instead of 6..

I understand manufacturing and in some cases its cheaper to go with certain sizes to eliminate steps therefore reducing costs but I think with a little forethought it could be minimized. I approached one cage manufacturer to see if he could do this for me (make 3 cages 2.5 inches shorter and not even change the depth) and he told me it would be 50 bucks per cage extra. 150 bucks to make 9 additional cuts. That's ridiculous.
 

Matt Man

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I'm sure as hobbyists many of us come up with ideas that would make for great products but we just don't have the resources to make them work. I applaud those who do.

One thing I've always said I would like to do if I ever started making cages, larger cages for snakes and lizards and such, not for T's, is change the dimensions so they fit commercially available hardware racks. Right now I have 10 of those wire racks with the round pole and I love them. The problem is there is so much wasted space. A 48" wide rack only has about 45.5 inches between the uprights. Most cages are 48" wide so they don't fit. If you use a 36" wide cage you have 10 inches of wasted space that just attracts clutter. I'd make the cages 3" shorter and maybe an inch or two wider. You'd have essentially the same volume but you could utilize space much more efficiently. For me now its not a big deal because I only have 2 larger snake cages and small cages for inverts can be made to fit but back when I had more snakes and lizards it was an issue.

Likewise, if I was a manufacturer of storage totes I would make sure that multiples of my products would fit on such shelving. 3 15" wide totes would fit on a 48" shelf but most totes are around 16" wide. Same with even smaller containers. Make them 11.25 inches wide instead of 12 or 5.5" instead of 6..

I understand manufacturing and in some cases its cheaper to go with certain sizes to eliminate steps therefore reducing costs but I think with a little forethought it could be minimized. I approached one cage manufacturer to see if he could do this for me (make 3 cages 2.5 inches shorter and not even change the depth) and he told me it would be 50 bucks per cage extra. 150 bucks to make 9 additional cuts. That's ridiculous.
a bit steep, but depending on how they are building them costs start to add up. If they are doing them via CNC then an entirely new cut file has to be created, and the parts need to be ganged onto a sheet. A whole sheet will most likely need to be used as their other sizes are already ganged to maximize yield, minimize waste. So you are essentially buying an entire sheet of material and the cutting time to do it. So generally that's a $50 to $75 cutting feel plus material. If it is high grade ACR you are talking $90 a sheet, so $50 plus $90 is $140. Then $10 to lay out the new cage.

as far as sizing I agree and is cheaper to mfr at the reduced sizes. On a 48" x 96" sheet you can fit 3 15" panels versus 2 @ 16" . So running anything that is smaller than any divisor of 12 is always better with yield. 11.5 better than 12, 15 better than 16, 23.5 better than 24". For a 2' x 3' panel you get 3 per 4'x8' sheet. 23.5" x 35.25" (97.9% +/-) you get 5 per sheet
 

sschind

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a bit steep, but depending on how they are building them costs start to add up. If they are doing them via CNC then an entirely new cut file has to be created, and the parts need to be ganged onto a sheet. A whole sheet will most likely need to be used as their other sizes are already ganged to maximize yield, minimize waste. So you are essentially buying an entire sheet of material and the cutting time to do it. So generally that's a $50 to $75 cutting feel plus material. If it is high grade ACR you are talking $90 a sheet, so $50 plus $90 is $140. Then $10 to lay out the new cage.

as far as sizing I agree and is cheaper to mfr at the reduced sizes. On a 48" x 96" sheet you can fit 3 15" panels versus 2 @ 16" . So running anything that is smaller than any divisor of 12 is always better with yield. 11.5 better than 12, 15 better than 16, 23.5 better than 24". For a 2' x 3' panel you get 3 per 4'x8' sheet. 23.5" x 35.25" (97.9% +/-) you get 5 per sheet
Nice post Matt, do you build cages;) Good explanation of possibilities. It also explains why custom cages are so expensive. I've always said custom cages are way to expensive...and they are worth every penny.

I understand the maximizing space thing so I can see where making it wider could possibly create more waste. That would definitely be something to think about if making a new line. Its the main reason I suppose that certain dimensions are always standard. My request wouldn't have done that though. 1 cut off the end as far I I was aware. They never explained why it was so much. The CNC thing I never thought of I don't think they were using it because you could see saw marks on the cut ends but I guess I've never seen anything done with CNC so I don't know. I have designed my own cages on occasion but never followed through simply because I don't have the place or the equipment to build them.
 

Matt Man

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Nice post Matt, do you build cages;) Good explanation of possibilities. It also explains why custom cages are so expensive. I've always said custom cages are way to expensive...and they are worth every penny.
I understand the maximizing space thing so I can see where making it wider could possibly create more waste. That would definitely be something to think about if making a new line. Its the main reason I suppose that certain dimensions are always standard. My request wouldn't have done that though. 1 cut off the end as far I I was aware. They never explained why it was so much. The CNC thing I never thought of I don't think they were using it because you could see saw marks on the cut ends but I guess I've never seen anything done with CNC so I don't know. I have designed my own cages on occasion but never followed through simply because I don't have the place or the equipment to build them.
I am mostly in retail display and fine art graphics. I work with the materials daily so I am quite aware of all the factors going in. I used to build cages in my spare time, but gluing is a pain and impossible to compete price wise with Asia. I make replacement lids for glass terrariums and ExoTerras and will move on to ZooMeds next. I do those mostly for myself, and friends but sell some @ shows as well. Yes, all this stuff gets cut on CNC tables by mfrs like Zund, Kongsberg, AXYZ, Coles etc.... if you search some of my posts I have photos and videos of the process. You can cut an entire 4'x 8' sheet worth of parts, including ventilation holes in a matter of minutes. Again, gluing is the worst part, lots of loss due to glue leaks / imperfections. That's why you see many new acrylic pieces that are slot and tab construction. Eliminates gluing (so reduced labor costs and reduced losses during fabrication), Ships flat (money saving) and less product damaged in transport. They are even shipping the parts with the protective liner still on (gets removed for glueing) so less scratches as well. Last, the tolerances are less tight with tab and slot so you can use lower grades of Acrylic like cast, versus extruded. This is an example of my actual day gig. Those are photographs face mounted to Acrylic with a PVC backer and wall mounts. One done as a normal triptych photo(rectangles) the other 2 cut into the Logo and Logotype of the Company
 

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rosenkrieger

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Can you dismantle it? One review mentioned the rivets, once pushed in, their "legs" get flanged out a bit. The guy felt you could remove them, but the rivets would get destroyed...?
I saw these on sale and picked one up. I like it so far. To answer your question, the rivets are just tiny versions of trim panel clips/pushpins you see in cars. From what I've seen in my line of work, those take years of heat cycles near and engine to get brittle and start breaking, so I'd imagine these should hold up fairly well in an average home.
 

viper69

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I saw these on sale and picked one up. I like it so far. To answer your question, the rivets are just tiny versions of trim panel clips/pushpins you see in cars. From what I've seen in my line of work, those take years of heat cycles near and engine to get brittle and start breaking, so I'd imagine these should hold up fairly well in an average home.
Thanks- but can you remove them without damage easily or it’s a pain. Some of those plastic push pins in cars suck, I’ve worked with some too hah. I often move and have to knock things down for shipping.


That's why you see many new acrylic pieces that are slot and tab construction
Was wondering about the tab/slot! I knew it would be cheaper on shipping, interesting on the rest you wrote.
Decades ago a company came out with an innovative knockdown tank for herps, I almost bought it- very good for people that move often like me.
 

Matt Man

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Was wondering about the tab/slot! I knew it would be cheaper on shipping, interesting on the rest you wrote.
Decades ago a company came out with an innovative knockdown tank for herps, I almost bought it- very good for people that move often like me.
Gluing ACR cleanly is a labor intensive process. The glue is really thin, dries quick and wants to run. When it runs it leaves a cloudy residue. So it doesn't suffer fools so you need people with a certain skill set to be good at it.
Kind of like building models back in the day as kids.
So sending as tab and slot reduces labor time and cost and ships smaller and safer. Win Win from an MFR standpoint
 

viper69

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Gluing ACR cleanly is a labor intensive process. The glue is really thin, dries quick and wants to run. When it runs it leaves a cloudy residue. So it doesn't suffer fools so you need people with a certain skill set to be good at it.
Kind of like building models back in the day as kids.
So sending as tab and slot reduces labor time and cost and ships smaller and safer. Win Win from an MFR standpoint
It is, I researched it quite a bit, but decided against it. This was back when DIY acrylic was much bigger than it is now.
 

Matt Man

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It is, I researched it quite a bit, but decided against it. This was back when DIY acrylic was much bigger than it is now.
the one issue with slot and tab is you have lost a structural element (the glue joint) in combating warp, and with cheaper cast acrylic it will become an issue
 

viper69

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the one issue with slot and tab is you have lost a structural element (the glue joint) in combating warp, and with cheaper cast acrylic it will become an issue
Yep I know- nothing is perfect. That's why I prefer glass, I have acrylic too, but prefer glass for cleaning purposes, and 2 way access with ExoTerra.
 

Matt Man

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Yep I know- nothing is perfect. That's why I prefer glass, I have acrylic too, but prefer glass for cleaning purposes, and 2 way access with ExoTerra.
Agreed. which is why I just make replacement lids for Glass tanks (Creative Habitat) and ExoTerra and am prototyping/ will be prototyping Zillas and ZooMed
 

viper69

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Agreed. which is why I just make replacement lids for Glass tanks (Creative Habitat) and ExoTerra and am prototyping/ will be prototyping Zillas and ZooMed
I saw a frogger make replacement lids for ExoTerra using 3D printing. Someone had them up here, sounded good, seemed OK, the narrow top venting seemed ripe for tarsal claw cluster crap, but the owner of the lid said it's not as bad as it looks. Seemed to be the case w/some pics he sent me long time ago.
 

Stu Macher

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I saw these on sale and picked one up. I like it so far. To answer your question, the rivets are just tiny versions of trim panel clips/pushpins you see in cars. From what I've seen in my line of work, those take years of heat cycles near and engine to get brittle and start breaking, so I'd imagine these should hold up fairly well in an average home.
I'm sure it wouldn't be a challenge to find replacement rivets then. That's cool
 

rosenkrieger

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Thanks- but can you remove them without damage easily or it’s a pain. Some of those plastic push pins in cars suck, I’ve worked with some too hah. I often move and have to knock things down for shipping.
I would imagine they would be fairly easy to remove without damage. the ones in cars are exposed to so many heat cycles that they become brittle. I don't see that being an issue in a terrarium.
 
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