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TOPIC: Scorpion Enclosures

Discussion in 'Scorpions' started by skinheaddave, Jul 8, 2004.

  1. skinheaddave

    skinheaddave SkorpionSkin Arachnosupporter

    This is a TOPIC post. As such, it is for the posting of serious information only. Any questions, comments or "me too"s will be deleted. If someone posts some information about which you have a question, please PM them or start a new thread. If you post information and it comes to your attention that the information is lacking or wrong, please edit your post to keep it up-to-date and relevent.

    This thread is for posting pictures and/or detailed descriptions of scorpion enclosures.

  2. pandinus

    pandinus Arachnoking Old Timer

    Mesobuthus martensii

    this is my M martensii setup. it is a medium sized Kritter keeper, with a mixed substrated of play sand and top soil (about 50-50). the wood is of an unknown origin. the small water dish is offered about a week a month, but i am cosidering making it permanent. this setup is the happy home of 2 M martensii
  3. pandinus

    pandinus Arachnoking Old Timer

    Paruroctonous gracilior

    These are my 2 enclosures for my P graciliors. The first is a small Kritter Keeper, with rocks, and a substrate of New mexican soil and peat (about 70-30).
    The second is a small Gladware container with a substrate of play sand and top soil (50-50) with rocks.
    NOTE: these are 2 different enclosures, P. gracilior should NOT be kept communally. Mine were until recently, when i heard of the species' behavior, i decided to separate them.
  4. pandinus

    pandinus Arachnoking Old Timer

    Vaejovis coahuilae

    this is my setup for 2 V. coahuilae. Again, a medium sized Kritter Keeper, with a 50-50 substrate of peat and New Mexican soil, with several rocks.
  5. Eurypterid

    Eurypterid Arachnerd Old Timer

    Here are a few pics of my critter room, which is in a little disarray right now, as I'm doing more work on it, and in the process of moving a lot of animals. The fixed shelves are also all hard-wired for electricity, with a minimum of 2 outlets per enclusure. The small tupperwares on the floor each hold a 3rd instar Opisthacanthus sp. The window does not get direct sun, and the room is kept at 80-90 degrees F during the day, and 75-78 at night.

    Attached Files:

  6. Eurypterid

    Eurypterid Arachnerd Old Timer

    Here are some pics of individual enclosures. The first two are for desert varieties that don't burrow. The last is for an Opistphthalmus sp. He's burrowed all the way around the circumference of the tank, and his claw is visible in the burrow.

    Attached Files:

  7. Brian S

    Brian S ArachnoGod Old Timer

    Hadogenes species or Flat Rock Scorpion

    This is a simple set up for any Hadogene sp. I put about 2 inches of sand and topsoil for substrate. I then added some flat rocks for hides. Also note the arrow heads I added for looks, and yes they are authentic artifacts that I have found here in Southern Missouri. This all fit nicely in the kritter keeper.

    Attached Files:

  8. carpe scorpio

    carpe scorpio Arachnoking Old Timer

    Centruroides gracilis

    Here is my Centruroides gracilis enclosure. It is a 10 gallon glass aquarium that has been divided. The substrate is peatmoss and there are ceramic water dishes containing additive-free tissue, changed weekly. The hides are placed in such a way that the scorpions may choose their heat gradient between the glass and the bark. Two 8 watt under-tank heaters are attached to the left and right sides. A plexiglass lid with 3/16 holes helps maintain humidity. The temperature is 78F-85F and humidity is 75%-85%+.

    Attached Files:

  9. carpe scorpio

    carpe scorpio Arachnoking Old Timer

    Androctonus bicolor

    This is my Androctonus bicolor enclosure. It is a divided 20 gallon(h) aquarium with a custom made screen-lid. The substrate is sand with a few small rocks and there are two ceramic water dishes with additive-free tissue, changed weekly. The hides are buried sections of cork-bark that are placed with one side against the glass. There are two 8 watt under-tank heaters attached to the left and right glass, and a third in the rear for the winter. The entrance and the middle of the scrape is much warmer than the lower portion, allowing the scorpions to choose their heat gradient. The substrate depth ranges from 3-6 inches, the deepest being at the scrapes. Humidity is 50% and temeratures are 85F-90F+.

    Attached Files:

  10. pandinus

    pandinus Arachnoking Old Timer

    M martensii

    this is my remodeled tank for my M martensii. unfortunately, one passed on, but i still keep the remaining in it.
  11. pandinus

    pandinus Arachnoking Old Timer

    C. vittatus

    this is my new C. vittatus tank, it is 10 gal, and holds only 2 C. vittatus, but hopefully more will be on the way.
  12. Scorponok

    Scorponok Arachnopeon

    This is my 29g long enclosure for my two P. imperator. The substrate is coconut husk with two water dishes at each end for drinking/humidity. There's a large artificial mangrove root in the centre which my scorps like to climb in and around. The hide is an artificial cave in the left side of the tank, visible in the second picture. I also have an air plant (Tillandsia sp.) attached to an amethyst geode on the right. Temperatures vary from mid 70s - 80s depending on if their heating is on with humidity from 75-80%. I use an undertank heater and infrared (not on at the same time). For night lighting, I use a moonlight bulb.

    Attached Files:

  13. Whitdadie

    Whitdadie Arachnosquire Old Timer

    I can't post a picture (yet) so I will discribe my A. australis set up that has worked for over a year now. It is a 5-1/2 gal tank with a screen top with clips to hold the top on (these guys are hot). For substrate I use black reptile sand with a hand full of white and black fish tank pebbles. Before I put fresh sand in I dampen it so that when it dries it is kind of stiff. I slope the sand up on the right hand side of the tank so it is like a hill. On top of the hill there is a red slate rock. On the front side of the hill was a live cactus but that has shriveled up and died so I took that out, but when it was in the tank the scorpion would like to hide under the thorns on the bottom. In the back corner on the left side is a fake rock water dish (shallow) that I put water in about every 2 to 3 months. A 40w bulb sits on top of the screen. That is how my A. australis lives and has done so perfectly for a while now. The light is not a totaly requirement all the time even though they are from a hot area. The bulb has blown befor and it has taken me a few weeks to replace it and the bugger is still great! Hope this gives an idea to those looking into housing one.
  14. el_barto

    el_barto Arachnopeon

    Hottentotta hottentotta

    Here is the enclosure of my Hottentotta hottentotta. It is a small plastic box (23x15x17cm, 3.5 liters / 9.2"x6"x6.8", 0.9 gallon). The substrat is a mixture of sand, peat and vermicule. I keep a small bottle stopper full of water all the time in the enclosure to provite a decent humidity level (I also mist from time to time). The hide is a small coconut cut in half. The scorpion sometimes like to rest on the small piece of brick.



  15. Fergrim

    Fergrim Arachnoangel Old Timer

    Parabuthus Transvaalicus enclosure

    Here are some pics of the enclosure I just set up for my P Trans that's arriving tomorrow :) Feedback via any medium very very appreciated!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 26, 2004
  16. scavenger

    scavenger Arachnosquire Old Timer

    Hadrurus enclosure... sorry about poor quality.

    Attached Files:

  17. Code

    Code Arachnosquire Old Timer

    Enclosure for my H. Spadix:
    10 gallon critter keeper with 1 inch of gravel in the bottom and four inches of sand on top. I purchased the sand and gravel from the aquatics section of my local pet shop. I rinsed it by filling a bowl with a portion of sand or gravel and then filling it up with water, mixing it around and then draining it with a screen covering the top of the bowl. The sand and gravel was still quite wet when I put it in the enclosure. I also have a plastic tube in the corner that goes down to the gravel layer for wetting the substrate. I have one of the small Exo Terra caves inside as well as a few rocks and a water dish. My Spadix seems to like burrowing under the rocks and water dish rather than use the cave. I'm using a 75 watt red heat lamp on one side of the enclosure, which heats one side to around 95 degrees f. and the other side to about 75 degrees f. My scorp will bask directly under the lamp at times. I've replaced the small polished rocks in this photo with larger (about 5" diameter) flat rocks.

    Enclosure for my P.Imperator
    10 Gallon fish tank with a screen cover that I purchased in the reptile section of a local pet shop. One inch of gravel in the bottom with a mixture of gravel, "jungle" substrate purchased from the reptile section of the pet store, and aspen wood chips on top. Exo Terra cave that is almost completely covered by substrate, moss and rocks on the surface. I have a rectangular, rock container in the corner that I filled partially with gravel that I keep water in. An Exo Terra fogger sits in that container that I use for daily "misting". I also keep a small water dish inside. I have a small heating pad on one end of the enclosure and a large heating pad on the other side. The enclosure stays at about 85-90 degrees f.
  18. Rourke

    Rourke ArachnoProletariat Old Timer

    B. jacksoni enclosure

    Just put this up early this morning. It's a 25 gallon tank--12" x 24" footprint, like a standard 20 gallon, but 21" tall. I have 10 immature B. jacksoni in it, and right away they were taking advantage of the height, climbing to tallest parts of the cork bark. Neato...

    Attached Files:

  19. calestus

    calestus Arachnosquire Old Timer

    Another B.Jacksoni Tank



    It's a 5 1/2 gallon critter cage with a locking lid. The substrate is 2/3 ESU 'Jungle Mix' and 1/3 Bed-a-Beast. With a very small amount of Scotts 10-10-10 slow release fertilizer. Underneath the substrate is a layer of lava rocks and a screen divider.

    Plant list looking from above.

    Center: Golden Spike Moss
    Center Top: unknown
    Left: Syngonium podophyllum
    Right upper: The lable says Dracaena "Marginata"
    Right Bottom: Fittonia Argyroneura
  20. edt

    edt Arachnosquire Old Timer

    Here is my first go round with pics on this board. Note, I have a really crappy oldschool digi cam, and have been 100% unsuccessful with actual scorp photos, but my new shipment arriving tomorrow will hopefully help me out on that.

    Collage of entire collection, in bedroom, in parents house, haha. Right to left, H. Spadix large critter keeper (arriving tomorrow), communal V. Spinigerus 20gl (arriving tomorrow, X6), homemade plexi P. Imp + Emptly partition (4+ years in captivity, one molt), Golden Gecko in a 10g.

    This is the 20gl V. Spinigerus I am going to put 6 into. Have heat on side at left, 40 W bulb from top, and under a bit on the right. about 80*F cool by log in day, 95* under lamp, and 85* on each side. Temps range from about 75-83* at night. The cacti were only $2 each at lowes, still in pots, and I have about 2-1" false bottom gravel setup, and then about 45peat 40sand 5vermaculite substrate. I siliconed the half log to the back, probably won't climb it though. Keeping this between 50-65% humidity.


    11" flexwatt visible, as well as vinyl tubing I siliconed to the corner, ran to the middle of the gravel under where the light shines. I use that flexwatt heat this cage and the P. Imp cage at once, each insulates the other a bit too.

    Cover I made out of scrap materials. Thin plywood for top, 11/16" holes for light and a bit of air, 90* brackets for a "handle", hardware cloth over the holes.

    Here is a bad pic of my homade H. Sp/P. Imp type enclsure. Each partition is about 12"x12"x16", false bottom, then peat and cactus soil, with a bit of vermiculite for substrate. Note, the lid is bowed, have hinge and lock on it, but a smaller specimen could get out if it could climb to the top. I just misted the heat tape side of the P. Imp side about 5 minutes before pic. Keeping this 60%+ humidity.

    Tools of the trade. The hemostats are great for grabbing my feeder roaches. I fiberglassed the tip onto that $2 baster to fit inside of the vinyl tubing for no spillage. I'm not sure that my humidity guage works on that cheapy temp/humidy guage.

    Here is my lobster roach setup. This is so cheap and easy. $25 shipped got 100 roaches from Clay Davenport (great guy!), $8 for the large enclosure (good for a few hundred), and free subsrate (just newspaper and other garbage for them to hide under), I bought the cheapest cat food with 35% protien ($3 for 8 lbs) and free old greens and fruits for moisture. No water, no stink, no escapes, no noise, no rejection from my animals. Note the "waste" on the vaseline band from my cat knocking the cage over the day after I hade it. Only about 15 escaped temporarily, and only 2 fully escaped into my room for "good".

    These guys are as hardy as P. Imps! Had him for 3+ years, no heat most of the time, never rejects a meal! Roach destroyer. Has good eyesight, jumps like an acrobat for food, very fun! Can run up glass and walls like lightening, I have had him in my room loose for about 2 months, got him back a little skinny, haha. Golden Gecko.

    I really enjoy making cages, just wish I had more room and time to do it!