Ventilation needs for Tarantulas?

[Dorifto]

Generally, the best way of regulating humidity is to overflow the water dish, and see where the spider spends it's time in response

Here you are ignoring the increased air's humidity by the overflow.

Simply because a T chooses a drier substrate doesn't mean it doesn't need or take benefit from the air's humidity. Even staying in the driest part, it'll be surrounded by the humid air from the over flow.

It's like pulchras, they tend to like drier substrates, but keep them really dry, air+substrate, and they will close their burrows. Give them some moisture here and there, always on show.

Another species that befenits from air's humidity level are xeric but humid species, like GBB or balfouris. In their habitat, they don't have too much water in the substrate, but they have very humid climates.

 

[Stylopidae]

Here you are ignoring the increased air's humidity by the overflow.

Yes, I'm ignoring the issue of humidity by recommending an overflow to regulate...humidity.

Just...please stop responding. You're not providing any actionable advice, and you're obviously looking for conflicts to further your pet issue.

 

[Katya]

not trying to be mean ok but that's gotta be one of the worst setups I have ever seen. ditch that cardboard box and quit misting. buy it a real corkwood hide and a real water dish. add a whole lot more substrate and please use the search function to learn how to care for your pet.

Yeahh I'm getting that. I'm seeing about getting a cork hide and hopefully a watering dish as soon as possible. Thank you for the feedback!

Posting some pictures of the enclosure and telling us about your in house climatic conditions would be very helpful to provide better advices.

Our house temperatures are usually 67 degrees during the day and 64 at night. We have the T under a window....which probably isn't the best option. Although the window isn't open often, so sunlight and stuff shouldn't interfere. It's cold now where we live, so we might move it to a different side of the room.

Thank you for the feedback!

@Dorifto @cold blood @Stylopidae etc, I didn't mean to start a debate, guys. I'll mist lightly once a week and spill around the water dish the rest of the time. I'm sure that'll be fine. I need to do a deep cage cleaning to rearrange everything and start over with the substrate, but we don't know if the T is in pre-molt or not.

Thank you all for your info! I'll incorporate as much as possible, and get a much better hide and dish.

1.) How big is this spider?
2.) You can remove the plastic. The spider will be fine.
6.) To quote posts, hit the +Quote button and follow the instructions. You'll quickly get to advanced mode by learning to copy/paste the HTML codes
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1. I'll try and post a pic later, not too big, I don't think. 2. Okay, we plan to after it molts. (Assuming it's gonna molt since it refused food the last time I tried, and has just been sitting most of the time. Went half up against the wall of the hide a couple of nights ago, but moved back down and haven't done anything. So I could just be clueless lol)

6. Ahhhhh, I think I got it. Thank you so much

Everyone in this conversation was new at spider-keeping once. No need to apologize. That's what we're here for.

Thanks I'll try and remember that.....xD

Honestly, this species will do fine on dry substrate with an overflowed waterdish.

There's actually a test to see if the spider needs more humidity. Pay attention to where it hangs out in the tank. If it stays by the wet corner all the time, then up the humidity level by soaking more of the substrate.

Okay, thank you! I'll try and monitor its behavior.

Quotes, you have been mastered.

 

[Dorifto]

Yes, I'm ignoring the issue of humidity by recommending an overflow to regulate...humidity.

Just...please stop responding. You're not providing any actionable advice, and you're obviously looking for conflicts to further your pet issue.

You didn't catch my point, and no I don't like conflicts, but when this kind of info shows around it's frustrating, because it makes people to kill their Ts, and our goal should be the opposite.

When you said that you'd modify the husbandry based on where the T spends more time, you are ignoring other factor, air's moisture.

Some species like pulchras like humid enclosures, but hate damp substrates, so for those cases you can't base your husbandry (overflow) looking where spends more time, because won't work. It'd look like they like dry conditions where in reality they like drier soils but humid conditions. Did you catch it now? (Nor being sarcastic, real question ) That was my point.

And yes the best way to regulate humidity it's overflowing or adding moisture to the substrate, then let it dry, and repeat. Doing this, the enclosure will tell you a ton of variables without a single gaugue or tool. Thats the method I use, and works wonders, because it' easy to understand, much easier to perform than automated systems, that I also have for other reasons, but most importantly, because it works. Nobody needs a phd to perform two tasks.

I just simply can not stand statements like humidity is irrelevant to just after to suggest how to keep them humid. That's a nonsense that only makes people more confuse. Be coherent, if something it's irrelevant then don't act like it is relevant.

And no, I wont stop unless this nonsense stops, if you don't find it useful, just ignore me, simple.

@Dorifto @cold blood @Stylopidae etc, I didn't mean to start a debate, guys. I'll mist lightly once a week and spill around the water dish the rest of the time. I'm sure that'll be fine. I need to do a deep cage cleaning to rearrange everything and start over with the substrate, but we don't know if the T is in pre-molt or not.

Thank you all for your info! I'll incorporate as much as possible, and get a much better hide and dish.

Don't worry, it's not because of you.

There is no need to mist it, simply add/poure some water, the substrate (if it's good) will do the rest. But hou can mist from time to time to offer some drinks.

Unless the T has darkened or shows some specific behaviours, like making a matt, laying hairs, acts lethargic... etc, there isn't any issues rehousing it.

 

[kingshockey]

i agree with what both of you guys say cause it makes sense to me but its more important to get op reading/ learning about the basic care/needs of their t

Yeahh I'm getting that. I'm seeing about getting a cork hide and hopefully a watering dish as soon as possible. Thank you for the feedback!

i know its alot to take in when you got decent advice all over the place here but i think you'll manage it. best of luck to you dont be surprised when you begin to think about buying another one

 

[Katya]

Here is my beautiful T, and his/her new hide. I think he's about four inches. Hopefully the hide is adequate, at least he seems to like it. I will bury it a bit tomorrow when I officially clean the cage. There were no watering dishes available.

I did find some molds spots in the substrate, and I picked those out best I could. I am wondering what stuff I could use to clean the cage? I usually just use hot water, but would dove soap be dangerous to use? Thanks

 

[Stylopidae]

@Dorifto @cold blood @Stylopidae etc, I didn't mean to start a debate, guys.

You did not start anything. On online forums, there are many people who think 'their way' is the best way, and vocal minorities like to try to try to start stuff.

I'll mist lightly once a week and spill around the water dish the rest of the time. I'm sure that'll be fine. I need to do a deep cage cleaning to rearrange everything and start over with the substrate, but we don't know if the T is in pre-molt or not.

Thank you all for your info! I'll incorporate as much as possible, and get a much better hide and dish.

If the spider is in pre-moult, doing what you need to do won't be a problem. However, the second it spins a moulting mat (visible here) or flips on it's back...that's when it should be left alone.

Premoult can last for weeks to months, giving you plenty of time to suss stuff out. It also might not be eating because it's simply not hungry, or still stressed out from the shipment/initial housing.

As for the water dish, I can see some real benefits to using a measuring cup over a store-bought dish. It allows you to visually monitor how much water is left in the container, and helps you mentally connect the amount left to a communicable amount (e.g. I know I need to refill when there's 1/16th cup left). At worst, it's a perfectly serviceable container. At best, it will help you monitor water input/evaporation and allow you to communicate with the co-owner when it's time to refill. The next time I see a water dish discussion, I think I might actually mention it as a possibility for new keepers.

I'd definitely bury it in the substrate up to the rim to help with the accessibility and to reduce the possibility the spider will turn it over by accident, but it's honestly a choice which could really help with the communication needed in a co-ownership situation.

1. I'll try and post a pic later, not too big, I don't think. 2. Okay, we plan to after it molts. (Assuming it's gonna molt since it refused food the last time I tried, and has just been sitting most of the time. Went half up against the wall of the hide a couple of nights ago, but moved back down and haven't done anything. So I could just be clueless lol)

6. Ahhhhh, I think I got it. Thank you so much

Please post a pic later. Seeing the spider will help give further advice on housing and stuff like that.

I'm particularly interested in seeing the abdomen, because that might help us determine if the spider is in pre-moult.

Added by edit since we posted at the same time:

Here is my beautiful T, and his/her new hide. I think he's about four inches. Hopefully the hide is adequate, at least he seems to like it. I will bury it a bit tomorrow when I officially clean the cage. There were no watering dishes available.

It looks nice. Hasn't been doing a lot of hair-kicking, which means it's not very stressed. No clue if it's in premoult, though.

If the spider likes the hide, that's all the measure of adequacy you need. I'd bury it so only the mouth is visible, because that will keep it from rolling around in the tank.

I did find some molds spots in the substrate, and I picked those out best I could. I am wondering what stuff I could use to clean the cage? I usually just use hot water, but would dove soap be dangerous to use? Thanks

Full tank washings should be rare IMO. When I was keeping far more spiders, I only did them once every other year or so. I had a large collection, so I usually had a backup enclosure ready.

I bleach-sterilized all of my tanks between rehousing, but dish soap should be fine so long as you rinse really well.

I'd recommend bleach sterilizing if you're putting another species in the same tank after this one, but dish soap should be fine.

 

[Katya]

If the spider is in pre-moult, doing what you need to do won't be a problem. However, the second it spins a moulting mat (visible here) or flips on it's back...that's when it should be left alone.

Premoult can last for weeks to months, giving you plenty of time to suss stuff out. It also might not be eating because it's simply not hungry, or still stressed out from the shipment/initial housing.

Okay! It's moulted successfully with us once before, and we've had it......about a year or less. Wish I'd kept track of these things. I'll keep a schedule this time around. I'll def look out for the web mat and the other signs!

As for the water dish, I can see some real benefits to using a measuring cup over a store-bought dish. It allows you to visually monitor how much water is left in the container, and helps you mentally connect the amount left to a communicable amount (e.g. I know I need to refill when there's 1/16th cup left). At worst, it's a perfectly serviceable container. At best, it will help you monitor water input/evaporation and allow you to communicate with the co-owner when it's time to refill. The next time I see a water dish discussion, I think I might actually mention it as a possibility for new keepers.

I'd definitely bury it in the substrate up to the rim to help with the accessibility and to reduce the possibility the spider will turn it over by accident, but it's honestly a choice which could really help with the communication needed in a co-ownership situation.

Okay, thanks for letting me know that the offensive measuring cup will work xD Good idea, will do -- I think I can get my brother to agree to that

Please post a pic later. Seeing the spider will help give further advice on housing and stuff like that.

I'm particularly interested in seeing the abdomen, because that might help us determine if the spider is in pre-moult.

I posted a picture with the new cork bark hide and the T above, just scroll up a bit and you should find it

 

[Andrea82]

Glad to read you taking advice so well! But! The corkbark hide should be open on the bottom so your spider can burrow beneath it if she wants to. Solution is simple, just take it out and cut it in half length-wise. Bury one end into the substrate and you're done.

I'd switch out the lid as well. Those mesh lids can be dangerous for the more adventurous spiders who climb up to them. They can get their tarsal claws stuck in it which could result in a fall and losing one or multiple legs.