Ventilation needs for Tarantulas?

[Katya]

Hey everybody!

So, I co-own a T. Albopilosus tarantula with my brother. It's a juvenile (I think), in a five-gallon glass tank, with a lamp and a side heat pad. (I know those aren't really recommended, but it's the only way the temperature is above the 60s). My brother insists on keeping the majority of the lid covered with plastic bags to keep it humid enough for the T, along with a tupperware lid over most of the leftover space. The humidity gauge in our tank reads mid 80s and sometimes 90s. The tarantula mostly stays in his/her hide, but it doesn't appear to bother him.

I'm worried there are not enough exposed air holes for the tarantula, and that the humidity is too high. Do they need great air flow, or is that fixture okay??

 

[ladyratri]

Lamp + heat pad + stagnant air sure sounds like a death trap to me...

 

[Cmac2111]

T albos don't need humidity in the 80-90% range, you definitely don't need to put plastic bags over the lid! Keeping them in a stuffy enclosure with a lamp and heat pad is NOT a good recipe. Ditch the humidity gauge, no need to chase a specific number... You can provide all the humidity this species needs by keeping them on mostly dry substrate and lightly overflowing the water dish on occasion.

On ventilation for this species and air holes; Whilst there are some tarantula species like C versicolor that thrive with good ventilation, most don't need loads of it, just enough so that the air in their enclosures does not become completely stagnant. Of course, with plastic bags covering an enclosure with minimal airflow and 2 heatsources, things could go very south as previously mentioned. I think we need a pic of the setup... where do you keep them that you need 2 heat sources to keep it in the 60's?

 

[Dorifto]

Lamp and heat mats used correctly won't pose any risk. Blocking the ventilation to increase humidity will.

In case you are using mats and lamps, always use a thermostat to control the temperature (heat) and prevent any excessive amounts of it. Only heat up a small portion of the enclosure, leaving the rest cooler to provide a temp gradient so they can thermoregulate themselves.

Do not block the ventilation to raise humidity, unless you have a ton of it, or the stagnant humid air will suffocate your T. Period.

To keep the enclosure humid, simply keep the substrate partially moist, this will provide enough humidity to the enclosure. They came from a pretty humid climate, but they don't lack air flow like in our enclosures do, so a bit lower values won't pose any risk, unless they were too low of course. Humidity ranging from 60s to 80s are perfectly safe, sometimes even lower too. Anyway do not chase any specific numbers, as those are dynamic in the nature, simply use the hygrometer to have an aprox idea about the conditions inside.

Posting some pictures of the enclosure and telling us about your in house climatic conditions would be very helpful to provide better advices.

 

[Smotzer]

There’s no need to use a heat lamp, and heat pad, and keeping it that humid will kill it slowly over time

 

[kingshockey]

the best thing you can do is to make use of the search function on this site. to read and learn about the proper care of your pet.along with get your brother reading and learning about the proper care along with you together.best of luck to you

 

[The Grym Reaper]

A heat mat on the side of the enclosure won't hurt provided it's controlled by a thermostat and placed above substrate level away from the tarantula's hide (we've been using them in Europe for decades without issue). There is absolutely no need to restrict ventilation to increase humidity though, doing so can turn enclosures into death-traps, this species does absolutely fine with a moist corner or periodically overflowed water dish.

 

[viper69]

Heat mats on bottom kill Ts, not sides

Your brother is wrong give it some ventilation

I’ve never ever worried about humidity with this species.

 

[DuneElliot]

While I'm keeping my T. albo sling at more normal room-like temps than you do. Sounds like you need to move the location of the spider. I don't worry about humidity...he's doing great (just burrowed as is in pre-molt). Too much is going to kill your T...it would be like living in a sauna for us (even if it wasn't a hot sauna).

 

[cold blood]

with a lamp and a side heat pad. (I know those aren't really recommended, but it's the only way the temperature is above the 60s)

First off, its not the "only way", in fact, its the laziest, most dangerous methods you could possibly use outside of putting it next to a campfire.

Secondly, and most importantly, your t doesnt have any special temp requirements, and will do just fine in the 60s.

My brother insists on keeping the majority of the lid covered with plastic bags to keep it humid enough for the T,

Humidity is actually completely irrelevant for this (and most) species.....stoip trying to keep things humid, this is very detrimental to your t. You can keep an albo dry with a water dish, and in cooler temps thats exactly how it should be kept.

. The humidity gauge in our tank reads mid 80s and sometimes 90s.

Throw that thing out, its gonna result in you killing your t. There is no magical humidity number and chasing numbers is never something anyone should be doing for a taratula.....its a spider, not a salamander.

it doesn't appear to bother him.

Ts have absolutely no way of communicating such things.

I'm worried there are not enough exposed air holes for the tarantula,

For most species, especially those kept dry or predominantly dry, ventilation is of virtually no concern...their ventilation needs are absolutely minimal.

Ventilation is only critical for Avic types and species that need to be kept perpetually damp.

and that the humidity is too high

it is, your conditions will eventually kill your t.....keep this in mind, too dry is FAR safer for any t than is too damp.

Keep your spiders like spiders, not like frogs or salamanders.

Do yourselves a favor and stop reading care sheets, stay off reddit and facebook and be careful who you take your random care advice from...there are lots more bad things on the internet than there are correct things.

Hope this helps clear up some of your (brothers) misconceptions. Good luck.

 

[Katya]

Thank you so much! We've removed half the plastic, and the rest will go once the T molts, and we're keeping the lamp off most of the time. (Sorry I don't know how to reference comments correctly...)

"Throw that thing out, its gonna result in you killing your t. There is no magical humidity number and chasing numbers is never something anyone should be doing for a taratula.....its a spider, not a salamander."

I'll definitely try to stop watching the numbers -- thanks for the info. While I don't ever use Reddit or facebook, I've often seen they need high temps and humidity. I'll quit worrying about it now tho. Sorry, this is the first tarantula I've ever kept. Total newbie


"it is, your conditions will eventually kill your t.....keep this in mind, too dry is FAR safer for any t than is too damp."

I was unaware of this, thank you for letting me know! I'll do my best to keep it less damp.....part of the reason we use the lamp is to evaporate the excess moisture when we must the cage so it doesn't mold. But I'll talk to my bro about cutting back and just misting the substrate around the water dish.

Ty so much! This is the current setup: (incredibly unprofessional, I know I know)

 

[Stylopidae]

Thank you so much! We've removed half the plastic, and the rest will go once the T molts, and we're keeping the lamp off most of the time. (Sorry I don't know how to reference comments correctly...)

1.) How big is this spider?
2.) You can remove the plastic. The spider will be fine.
3.) That cardboard hide is going to mould over VERY fast. Unless the spider is actively moulting, I'd get some corkbark (or something similar) in there stat (or as soon as you can run to the pet store).
4.) Needs more substrate. If the spider decides to explore the ceiling, and falls, it could get hurt if it hits something. The substrate should be one spider legspan from the top of the tank.
5.) Is the lid secured by something? I'd make sure that lid is secured with some kinda tank latch.

6.) To quote posts, hit the +Quote button and follow the instructions. You'll quickly get to advanced mode by learning to copy/paste the HTML codes
.

I'll definitely try to stop watching the numbers -- thanks for the info. While I don't ever use Reddit or facebook, I've often seen they need high temps and humidity. I'll quit worrying about it now tho. Sorry, this is the first tarantula I've ever kept. Total newbie.

Everyone in this conversation was new at spider-keeping once. No need to apologize. That's what we're here for.

Honestly, this species will do fine on dry substrate with an overflowed waterdish.

There's actually a test to see if the spider needs more humidity. Pay attention to where it hangs out in the tank. If it stays by the wet corner all the time, then up the humidity level by soaking more of the substrate.

I was unaware of this, thank you for letting me know! I'll do my best to keep it less damp.....part of the reason we use the lamp is to evaporate the excess moisture when we must the cage so it doesn't mold. But I'll talk to my bro about cutting back and just misting the substrate around the water dish.

Ty so much! This is the current setup: (incredibly unprofessional, I know I know)

With this species, you shouldn't even need to mist. It will also do fine with zero additional heat.

 

[kingshockey]

not trying to be mean ok but thats gotta be one of the worst set ups i have ever seen. ditch that card board box quit misting. buy it a real corkwood hide and a real water dish. add a whole lot more substrate and please use the search function to learn how to care for your pet.

 

[Dorifto]

Humidity is actually completely irrelevant for this (and most) species.....stoip trying to keep things humid, this is very detrimental to your t. You can keep an albo dry with a water dish, and in cooler temps thats exactly how it should be kept.

it is, your conditions will eventually kill your t.....keep this in mind, too dry is FAR safer for any t than is too damp.

Please stop. Your war against humidity it's reaching absurd levels.

All Ts benefits from humidity, ALL. From molting to prevent dehydration. Period

There are some species that evolved in drier climates? Of course, they are pretty adaptative animals, but the vast majority live in humid or very humid conditions. But even those drier species have seasons, where it's more humid, not only outside, but in their burrows too, thing that use to molt or breed.

Too dry is way more dangerous than too damp, and you see this all day long with dehydrated Ts, molting issues etc... The ones related to excessive moisture are more related to a POOR ventilation than the humidity itself. Humidity alone won't pose any risk at all, ANY. Now use it to create a sauna like conditions and then everybody shouts humidity kill ts...


If too dry is more safe than too humid, I encourage you to keep your slings too dry rather than a damp substrate, see what happens.

I was unaware of this, thank you for letting me know! I'll do my best to keep it less damp.....part of the reason we use the lamp is to evaporate the excess moisture when we must the cage so it doesn't mold. But I'll talk to my bro about cutting back and just misting the substrate around the water dish.

Please don't follow that advice or depending on your climate your T will suffer the consecuences.

He has a personal war against humidity, and instead of teaching how to manage it properly, now reached to this... Neither too dry or too humid+low ventilation (this is the key) are good, both of them are detrimental.

You can keep them very humid that won't pose any risk at all, but always, always having a good ventilation, this is the key. Keep a T fully dry and a T fully moist (without exagerating) and see which one, dies first or has any problem. First one will end up dehydrated way faster than it's humid counterpart.

I asked you your in house conditions because they will determine how you should keep it. If it's dry, because of a drier climate or the use of ACs HVACS etc then offer her moister spots to counteract that drynes. The moisture in the soil will provide moisture to the air making it less dry and more humid. In the other hand if your climatic conditions are humid, you should keep it on the drier side, not dry, drier. With less moist spot and more drier ones, since your climate it's providing that humidity, so there is no need to raise it even more.

Regarding to your setup, it needs some changes.

Way more substrate, at least fill 2/3rds of it. I recommend peat and clay based topsoil, works great providing good conditions and holds their burrows much better than any other alternative.

It's hide, they like thighter spaces, so ditch the box. Use a cork bark or find a wood that could work like an entrance. Place it and cover it generously, so it's stays more isolated.

You can play with slopes with different spots with different moisture levels. This will provide ample of different conditions were it can choose from.

To decorate it you can use some realistic tall plants who offer some top coverage, some dry grass and soft branches.

Ventilation wise, it will depend on your setup and climatic conditions. If your house it's dry, you could cover just the edges, still providing enough air flow. This will help keeping the conditions more stable. If the conditions are humid, keep it fully open.

 

[Smotzer]

Thank you so much! We've removed half the plastic, and the rest will go once the T molts, and we're keeping the lamp off most of the time. (Sorry I don't know how to reference comments correctly...)

"Throw that thing out, its gonna result in you killing your t. There is no magical humidity number and chasing numbers is never something anyone should be doing for a taratula.....its a spider, not a salamander."

I'll definitely try to stop watching the numbers -- thanks for the info. While I don't ever use Reddit or facebook, I've often seen they need high temps and humidity. I'll quit worrying about it now tho. Sorry, this is the first tarantula I've ever kept. Total newbie


"it is, your conditions will eventually kill your t.....keep this in mind, too dry is FAR safer for any t than is too damp."

I was unaware of this, thank you for letting me know! I'll do my best to keep it less damp.....part of the reason we use the lamp is to evaporate the excess moisture when we must the cage so it doesn't mold. But I'll talk to my bro about cutting back and just misting the substrate around the water dish.

Ty so much! This is the current setup: (incredibly unprofessional, I know I know)

Okay the enclosure is very wrong but it’s quite easily fixable. You need to add substrate to at least half way full and remove the cardboard box and replace it with a piece of cork bark or bark that it can burrow underneath it if it chooses into the substrate as a hide. And get a regular water dish that preferably isn’t a measuring cup that easily can be emptied. And you don’t need the plastic bags there either.

 

[cold blood]

Please stop. Your war against humidity it's reaching absurd levels

Please stop telling me what to say, this crap is getting very old. You aren't the information police and you certainly aren't all knowing.

 

[Dorifto]

Please stop telling me what to say, this crap is getting very old. You aren't the information police and you certainly aren't all knowing.

At least I'm not the disinformation police...

Telling things that are not true in order to make people ignore humidity it's not the right way to keep this hobby healthy.

Why don't you do it like the rest of us? Explaining simple methods to keep them humid in case it's necessary?

Simply because it can be ignored with a good husbandry, does not make it irrelevant. Because still it is, but you are providing it following a good husbandry. Simple.

Telling them to ignore or to thell them it's irrelevant simply makes things more confuse, and doesn't help at all to the hobby. It's a much better approach to inform, and to guide correctly.

 

[Benson1990]

Please stop. Your war against humidity it's reaching absurd levels.

All Ts benefits from humidity, ALL. From molting to prevent dehydration. Period

There are some species that evolved in drier climates? Of course, they are pretty adaptative animals, but the vast majority live in humid or very humid conditions. But even those drier species have seasons, where it's more humid, not only outside, but in their burrows too, thing that use to molt or breed.

Too dry is way more dangerous than too damp, and you see this all day long with dehydrated Ts, molting issues etc... The ones related to excessive moisture are more related to a POOR ventilation than the humidity itself. Humidity alone won't pose any risk at all, ANY. Now use it to create a sauna like conditions and then everybody shouts humidity kill ts...


If too dry is more safe than too humid, I encourage you to keep your slings too dry rather than a damp substrate, see what happens.




Please don't follow that advice or depending on your climate your T will suffer the consecuences.

He has a personal war against humidity, and instead of teaching how to manage it properly, now reached to this... Neither too dry or too humid+low ventilation (this is the key) are good, both of them are detrimental.

You can keep them very humid that won't pose any risk at all, but always, always having a good ventilation, this is the key. Keep a T fully dry and a T fully moist (without exagerating) and see which one, dies first or has any problem. First one will end up dehydrated way faster than it's humid counterpart.

I asked you your in house conditions because they will determine how you should keep it. If it's dry, because of a drier climate or the use of ACs HVACS etc then offer her moister spots to counteract that drynes. The moisture in the soil will provide moisture to the air making it less dry and more humid. In the other hand if your climatic conditions are humid, you should keep it on the drier side, not dry, drier. With less moist spot and more drier ones, since your climate it's providing that humidity, so there is no need to raise it even more.

Regarding to your setup, it needs some changes.

Way more substrate, at least fill 2/3rds of it. I recommend peat and clay based topsoil, works great providing good conditions and holds their burrows much better than any other alternative.

It's hide, they like thighter spaces, so ditch the box. Use a cork bark or find a wood that could work like an entrance. Place it and cover it generously, so it's stays more isolated.

You can play with slopes with different spots with different moisture levels. This will provide ample of different conditions were it can choose from.

To decorate it you can use some realistic tall plants who offer some top coverage, some dry grass and soft branches.

Ventilation wise, it will depend on your setup and climatic conditions. If your house it's dry, you could cover just the edges, still providing enough air flow. This will help keeping the conditions more stable. If the conditions are humid, keep it fully open.

But is it the humidity that's beneficial or is it simply the moist substrate you provide that's beneficial? when people talk humidity they're most always talking air humidity which from my reading isn't really relevant to T's, also if people get to preoccupied with humidity they start chasing numbers which seems to be pointless and an impossible task considering air humidity fluctuates so much, for example if someone is chasing say 60% humidity and it drops to say 55% or so, they then go and add more water to bring it back to 60% and keep on doing this to maintain that 60% but wont that will inevitably make it too moist? a person or at least a noob would be turning the enclosure into a sauna for nothing causing more harm that good.

 

[Stylopidae]

But is it the humidity that's beneficial or is it simply the moist substrate you provide that's beneficial? when people talk humidity they're most always talking air humidity which from my reading isn't really relevant to T's, also if people get to preoccupied with humidity they start chasing numbers which seems to be pointless and an impossible task considering air humidity fluctuates so much, for example if someone is chasing say 60% humidity and it drops to say 55% or so, they then go and add more water to bring it back to 60% and keep on doing this to maintain that 60% but wont that will inevitably make it too moist? a person or at least a noob would be turning the enclosure into a sauna for nothing causing more harm that good.

A lot of people have their pet issues, and this one is just stupid. Generally, the best way of regulating humidity is to overflow the water dish, and see where the spider spends it's time in response. Adjust the moisture level as needed.

Most spiders don't need a whole lot of humidity; ambient works just fine in most cases. While there are exceptions, this is not one of them.

This is a species I've actually kept before (although I don't have one at the moment), and it did fine on dry sub with an overflowed water dish. I think people's pet peeves are making care for this species seem more difficult than it really is to the detriment of a new keeper who just wants to care for their neat spider.

 

[Dorifto]

But is it the humidity that's beneficial or is it simply the moist substrate you provide that's beneficial?

Both. Let me explain.

Imagine a fully dry enclosure, no moisture at all, the only thing preventing the dehydration will be the amount of moisture that it's in the air, aka RH, humidity. The drier the air, the faster it will draw moisture from it's surrounding watery bodies, the T, the substrate, a dish etc

If the air it's humid, it'll be the opposite, as the air it's more saturated, so can't draw moisture so fast. In this case the watery bodies will still loose their moisture, but in a much slower rate.

Now let's go to add some moisture to the substrate. In the case that the air it's dry outside, this moisture will be the one that the enclosure's air will draw first/mostly, increasing the air's humidity. Once this air it's humid enough, the dehydration rate will slow down greatly, keeping them safe.

If your conditions are humid enough, you barely need to add moisture to keep the enclosure humid. In case you need to add moisture, because of the Ts requerimentsz then you should start increasing the air flow, to not to reach saturation levels, specially with low air flow. With great air flow, high RH numbers are perfectly safe.

So it's the air's humidity the one that will determine the dehydration rate of the watery bodies inside, not the substrate's one. The substrate it's another watery body that's being affected by the air.

This works for arboreals and terrestrial Ts.

Arboreals don't have any substrate beneath them, so how could we protect them? Easily, using the air's humidity.

To keep them safe it's as simple as adding moisture to the substrate and let it to dry, as simple as that. No gaugues etc. The enclosure will tell you when it needs more moisture. It's very important to let them dry, not fully, but a bit, because neither extremes are good, unless for specialized Ts that live and need such conditions.

No one should chase numbers blindly, but knowing them could help to adjust your husbandry properly.