Turkistan Roaches

[MBArachnids]

Hi all,

Just some background, I have owned T's for a few years. I have always fed crickets, mealworms, and certain types of roaches when available.

I am growing tired of going to the shop and buying feeders, so I now have the opportunity to start a colony.

I need to know as much as possible about Turkistan Roaches.

Questions I need Answers For.

-Are they difficult to breed and start a colony with?
-What temperatures are ideal for breeding? (It gets to around 40°F in our home)
-What are the best methods to combat the cold? (I mainly use heating pads, i am not too keen on the idea of installing a air conditioner just to get a roach colony. So alternatives welcome)
-What enclosure will work the best for a colony? (Also i need to know how many roaches +- i can keep in certain enclosure sizes)
-I have heard the lid at the top needs to be open, is this true? (Open and covered with mesh is apparently the best?)
-How many males and how many females? (What ratio works best, 1 male and 3 females etc?)
-How easy is it to feed them and what can be used? (Heard chickenfeed is good)
-How long does it take to breed? (From nymph, to medium to adult and laying eggs)
-How long do eggs take to hatch?
-Lifespan of the roach?
-How would you go about sorting them and keeping the colony from growing too big?
-Do you feed males and females to your T's, and what are the differences between them? (From best for the T and telling them apart)

Also please give me any other useful information, tips on keeping them etc.

I would also like to know the benefits of feeding them to my T's, the negatives and everything in between. Can they harm a molting T, as i heard they don't?

I think I covered most of my concerns, I would appreciate any information.

All the best.

 

[Voes]

I dont think I have the same type of roaches

 

[The Mantis Menagerie]

Those guys can climb any surface. So make sure to coat the top 2-3 inches of your tub or whatever you're holding them in with a nice coat of vaseline. That will stop them from climbing out. They also like it dry... And I mean super dry and low humidity.

Aren’t we talking about Blatta lateralis? This is supposed to be a non-climbing species. In response to the original question, I think they are easy to breed, but I am trying to get my own starter colony.

 

[Liquifin]

-Are they difficult to breed and start a colony with?

Super easy to breed and colonies explodes once it gets going.

-What temperatures are ideal for breeding? (It gets to around 40°F in our home)

room temps do fine so 72-77 degrees Fahrenheit or 80-90 if you want faster oothecae hatching

-What are the best methods to combat the cold? (I mainly use heating pads, i am not too keen on the idea of installing a air conditioner just to get a roach colony. So alternatives welcome)

Heat pads can work but I'm not too sure how to use it for a feeder colony, so someone else can help on that.

-What enclosure will work the best for a colony? (Also i need to know how many roaches +- i can keep in certain enclosure sizes)

Sterlite containers or any smooth surfaced containers as B. lateralis (turkistan roaches) cannot climb smooth surfaces

-I have heard the lid at the top needs to be open, is this true? (Open and covered with mesh is apparently the best?)

Not true on the lid having to be open, but they do need ventilation (that's mesh). Never drill holes for ventilation for them because that allows unwanted pests like flies to invade a colony.

-How many males and how many females? (What ratio works best, 1 male and 3 females etc?)

That's right, but my ratio is 1:4 or 1:5 for males and females.

-How easy is it to feed them and what can be used? (Heard chickenfeed is good)

Chicken feed can work, I use cheap dog food, fresh veggies on the occasion which can help with hydration/water and water crystals for water. But know that the more wet or moisture content food you feed them will lead to wet waste (moist/wet poop) which is a pain to clean and it attracts flies more.

-How long does it take to breed? (From nymph, to medium to adult and laying eggs)

growth from nymph to adult can vary at how the care is. For me it's 4-6 months from newborn nymph to adult but care is the factor of determining growth. So feedings+warm temperatures=faster growth

-How long do eggs take to hatch?

room or warmer temps is necessary for them to hatch so around 28 days

-Lifespan of the roach?

4-6 months to maturity and 6 months to 1 year lifespan as adults. Some grow faster than others and some may grow slower than others, but this is an estimate range.

-How would you go about sorting them and keeping the colony from growing too big?

I euthanize the eggs if too much is being born by using a soap bucket and dumping the eggs into it and let the soap water intoxicate the eggs for a while (about a month). But sometimes I feed off the females to lower the numbers of eggs being laid if it gets out of hand.

-Do you feed males and females to your T's, and what are the differences between them? (From best for the T and telling them apart)

I feed more males off than females to keep it in ratio and to also prevent males from killing each other for mates. Males have wings and will look like the generic roach where as the female will be dark and wingless.

Tips:
If you're gonna start a big colony the biggest drawback is maintenance. I literally have to clean my colony every week because they poop a lot and have they fast metabolism. I can't lower the feedings because it will result in mass cannibalism within the colony. These are the best feeders but they're not the perfect feeders as all feeders have drawbacks to them. If poop and waste builds up it will attract fruit flies phorid flies and a mass invasion of grain mites. If you start a small colony and have a small collection, then it's best to make sure it stays small for the better. As the bigger a colony gets, the more often it's going need cleaning.

Those guys can climb any surface. So make sure to coat the top 2-3 inches of your tub or whatever you're holding them in with a nice coat of vaseline. That will stop them from climbing out. They also like it dry... And I mean super dry and low humidity.

That's not true. I'm guessing you mean another species??



A picture of my turkistan (B. lateralis) colony
View media item 56516
Old maintenance picture
@Voes mines can't climb smooth surfaces, so either it's another species you're talking about or your info is misinformed...
View media item 48719

 

[Voes]

Aren't these roaches also know as red runner roaches? I keep mine in a plastic tub and had to line the top with a thin line of vaseline because every once in a while a few would manage to climb the sides. Maybe I am wrong, but my experience with them was as such.

 

[KevinsWither]

i'm trying to get my colony to produce tons lol

 

[Ellenantula]

My B lats don't climb -- that said, I use a new Rubbermaid tote which is slick/smooth to give them no scratches to gain a foothold. If I have an escape, it's because one crawled up my arm (mine are trusting of me) and got out that way.
I offer egg crates, plenty of fresh organic food (plus cat food) and keep them warm and moist. I adore B lats (not a dubia burrowing fan). I've kept B lats for about 5 years and my Ts (and bearded dragon) adore them. I could count on 1 hand how many managed to escape.
My Ts adore them -- they are chunky and nutritious and super fast -- giving my Ts some hunting experience.

 

[MBArachnids]

Thank you so much for the replies and great advice @Liquifin and @Ellenantula. I will be sure to use it going forward, I think it is a good project for any T keeper.

The only thing I am not too keen on is the amount of cleaning involved

Do the males ever fly? Silly question, but since they have wings have they never been startled and flown off?

 

[Ellenantula]

Do the males ever fly? Silly question, but since they have wings have they never been startled and flown off?

Minimal lift-off (not sure if the males jump or actually fly) but as long as egg crates aren't within say 4" of top -- no issues for me with the males flying/jumping/climbing out of enclosure.