T's stuck in a molt

JJJoshua

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
May 9, 2004
Messages
353
I don't have a T stuck in a molt, but I was wonder what you do when a T is stuck in a molt. I just got a rosie from Petco, she doesn't look like she's in good condition and it broke my heart to see her there. She doesn't use her 8th leg, just drags it behind her, and it has a sort of hump where the coxa joins the trochanter. And her 3rd leg is smaller than the rest and doesn't move when she walks. Would these things pose a problem for an upcoming molt? I think she may have some trouble 1. with fliping over and 2. the molt itself. If she does get stuck what could I do to help her?
 

Greg Wolfe

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
Joined
Sep 13, 2003
Messages
1,101
Damaged T...

Sounds like that T you saw has been around the block a few times. She's not getting "blood" to that leg that is dragging. Sad, I surmise it is a wild caught with all those injuries.
In most cases she will molt and renew any damaged appendages, it may take more than one molt to get back to normal.
Stuck sheds... I have lost two in that fashion in 25 years of keeping T's and it is excruciating to go through, for both the T and the owner. Both T's didn't make it. I have heard of applying glycerin to "stuck" parts to assist in shedding but have never tried it. When my T's shed I try to leave them be.
Only once I assisted my Pamphobeteus Fortis whose last leg was stuck at the last joint. She was completley exhausted so I very gently pulled the old skin ever so slowly to help her get that last telotarsus out. She wiggled with joy upon her liberation, but I would not recommend at any time assisting a T shedding due to injury and causing bleeding.
 

mouse

Arachnolord
Old Timer
Joined
Jul 3, 2004
Messages
603
i don't know, all you can do (i think, don't quote me) is keep the humidity up and keep her in a quiet place so she doesn't stress.
lat month one of my itty-bitty sling molted and had the old molt stuck on its butt...i asked on this board about it and together we figured to use a medisinedropper with lukewarm water and dripple a drop or two on the back of my sing and keep the humidity up (but my sling was out of it's molt and walking around for 2 days with it's old skin draging behind it). it wasn't stuck INSIDE.
but i'm still new...so don't go by my advise or experiance....
dianne
 

Greg Wolfe

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
Joined
Sep 13, 2003
Messages
1,101
The Rite of Passage...

Molting... Yes, you are correct in keeping the humidity up and keeping the molting T in seclusion so she can shed. This is a critical time for T's, and remember to take any crickets left out. They can nibble on the defenseless T.
 

tarantula666

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Jul 21, 2004
Messages
140
keeping the humidity up or increasing it should ease the molting.
i remember reading a post here on the boards where someone had a T stuck in a molt and added a single drop of water on the part that was stuck ( part of the abdomen).
if i remember correctly this was effective.
 

Raindog

Arachnoknight
Old Timer
Joined
Jul 13, 2004
Messages
287
I wouldn't worry about her ability to flip over for a molt. My completely healthy B. smithi has molted right side up twice with no complications at all.
 

JJJoshua

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
May 9, 2004
Messages
353
Aright sounds good. She's getting really dark on her abdomen so I'm just waiting and hoping she does OK. I'd like to watch her do it, so I hope she starts at night, when I'm off work so I can monitor her. But if not she should be fine until I get home, my other older spiders usually take all day to get their molting done, and she's looks old and yes, I think she's been around the block a FEW too many times. Thanks all for the tips.

_joshua
 

JJJoshua

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
May 9, 2004
Messages
353
Greg Wolfe said:
She's not getting "blood" to that leg that is dragging.
If its not getting hemolymph to that leg then how will it molt? I mean, the way T's shed is to pump a sort of molting fluid out to seperate the old exoskeleton from the new one. If there is no blood going to that leg then would it not get seperated from the old exoskeleton and then she would be stuck?
:(
 

kephy

Arachnopeon
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
11
I have a spiderling who has only molted once right before I got him. I'm wondering, how long once they stop eating does it usually take for them to molt? He was eating great on small crickets every 2-3 days, but hasn't wanted anything for about a week now.
 

JJJoshua

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
May 9, 2004
Messages
353
It's probably getting ready to molt. Look to see if it's abdomen starts to get dark, almost black, that means molting is not far away.
 

heering80

Arachnoknight
Old Timer
Joined
Jun 19, 2004
Messages
193
kephy said:
I'm wondering, how long once they stop eating does it usually take for them to molt? He was eating great on small crickets every 2-3 days, but hasn't wanted anything for about a week now.
I have a 3" A. versicolor that fasted for about 4 weeks up until it molted today.. That was first molt that I've witnessed (poorly though because it was done it it's webbigns)..

So keep the faith :eek:
 

kephy

Arachnopeon
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
11
NF Spiders said:
It's probably getting ready to molt. Look to see if it's abdomen starts to get dark, almost black, that means molting is not far away.
Well, it's a very tiny little spiderling so it's hard at this point to notice signifigant color change. Though I will say it's not quite the brilliant turqoise it usually is.
heering80 said:
I have a 3" A. versicolor that fasted for about 4 weeks up until it molted today.. That was first molt that I've witnessed (poorly though because it was done it it's webbigns)..

So keep the faith :eek:
Thanks, that makes me feel better. The only thing that I find strange is that a few days ago he was on his back in his web, so I thought surely he was about to do it. Then he went right sight up and now has just been hanging out up there. Could this mean he was going to molt, but is having trouble, or do they sometimes just do that?

Thanks for the advise both of you. :)
 

kephy

Arachnopeon
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
11
Still nothing. No eating, no molting. My fiance is afriad it's gonna die. The first one we got went into a molt and died. We don't want that to happen again. :(
 

Pheonixx

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
1,219
sticking the enclosure in the bathroom with shower on hot makes it real moist in cage. Worked like a charm for me. (don't stick the enclosure in the shower)
 

kephy

Arachnopeon
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
11
Thank you thank you!

Yesterday we left him in the bathroom with the shower running for about an hour, and this morning he was molting!



Next question. How long after a molt will he be kinda sensitive? He looks kind of shriveled. That's normal, right? I expect they need some time to stiffen up before offering food again...
 

JJJoshua

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
May 9, 2004
Messages
353
When they're done with a molt everything is very soft and delicate. They need a few days to harden up. With larger spiders it usually takes a while. The only thing that can really indicate when they can feed is their fangs, if you can get a good look at them. After a molt the fangs are white, and should darken up. I wouldn't try and feed it anything until you see a VERY dark red or black color to the fangs. I gave my 4" blondi about 4 days, and in snatched the crick right up. So, wait about 3 - 4 days and put a crick in. He should catch it once it gets close to him, because they're super hungry and need to regain energy. I usually watch to see if it eats it right away or not. If it doesn't eat right away, take the crick out and wait till the next day and try again. This way the crick can't harm the lil guy while it's vulnerable.

Congratulations,
Joshua
 

kephy

Arachnopeon
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
11
Ok, I'll keep an eye on him and give him a few days. When he's ready to eat, will a silkworm be good to offer him? I have a lot of small silkworms available, but I have small crix for my gecko, too, so I can offer either. I just thought maybe a silkie would be a little gentler and softer for him to go after this first time after his molt.
 

JJJoshua

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
May 9, 2004
Messages
353
I don't really think it would matter. Plus small cricket are pretty soft. But anything would work really, its probably easier to catch a silk worm than a cricket, so, give it a shot and see how it works out.

Good luck
 

xelda

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
372
One thing I've noticed is that it takes a lot more work for Ts to eat worm-type bugs. Catching them isn't the problem, but subduing them is another issue. The worm can struggle for hours, especially if your T grabs the butt end instead of the head.
 

JJJoshua

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
May 9, 2004
Messages
353
Thanks for the input, I never use worms. I stick w/ gutloaded cricks and occasional pinkies.
 
Top