Today in the Spider Room?

l4nsky

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My Kochiana brunnipes female FINALLY agreed to breed with the male I got on loan a month ago! He has tried his very best four separate times these last weeks but she's ignored him completely each time, even chasing him away once. I was almost inclined to message the keeper and ask if they wanted me to keep trying or if we should find another female to send him to, but then this happened! I'm very pleased.
Observed pairing or cohab?
 

MariaLewisia

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Observed pairing or cohab?
Very much observed with my own two eyeballs less than a metre from the action. Three or four insertions before she had had enough and I had to help him escape. But escape he did, completely unharmed, and my male survival rate remains a stable 100% (knock on wood).
 

l4nsky

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Very much observed with my own two eyeballs less than a metre from the action. Three or four insertions before she had had enough and I had to help him escape. But escape he did, completely unharmed, and my male survival rate remains a stable 100% (knock on wood).
Weird question, but it is related. Do you use standardized enclosures or an assortment of random enclosure sizes and shapes?
 

MariaLewisia

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Weird question, but it is related. Do you use standardized enclosures or an assortment of random enclosure sizes and shapes?
Fairly standardised though I'm looking to upgrade once I find enclosures that I like enough to buy multiple of. For now the vast majority are housed in the same style of square deli containers. These two are housed in identical ones.
 

l4nsky

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Fairly standardised though I'm looking to upgrade once I find enclosures that I like enough to buy multiple of. For now the vast majority are housed in the same style of square deli containers. These two are housed in identical ones.
IME, there are some tarantula genera and specimens to a certain extent that just won't pair under observation. They're waaaay to flighty and its hard to get them to reset and focus on anything but you (the immediate threat) if you have to cup them or guide them at all. Trust me, trying to pair and ultimately chasing two 6"+ DLS Phormingochilus sp Sabah Blue that bolted in opposite directions is not fun.

What's worked for me and what you might consider doing in the future should you run into that problem and want to keep the male alive (ie not just cohabbing in the female's enclosure and hoping for the best) is consider making a neutral pairing arena to naturally allow the males to find the females' burrow without any stress from cupping or prodding on your part and give the male a long runway to escape the female. With these setups, I'm also batting 100% male survival rate. I do use a webcam to record the pairing and judge success later, but you could probably watch if you're patient.

Since you're standardized, it's actually pretty simple, you'll just need a larger container and the lids of two of your standard enclosures (this is a sacrifice of the enclosure). I've done it for the Sterilite 1932's:
20220727_200945.jpg
20220727_201342.jpg

I've also completed pairing arenas for the THE Medium containers and the THE Cereal containers I use for fossorials:
20230813_115559.jpg
20230813_115738.jpg

The basic principle is to attach the standardized lids to the bottom of the larger enclosure somehow and cut a large hole through both the lid and the bottom of the larger container.
 

NMTs

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IME, there are some tarantula genera and specimens to a certain extent that just won't pair under observation. They're waaaay to flighty and its hard to get them to reset and focus on anything but you (the immediate threat) if you have to cup them or guide them at all. Trust me, trying to pair and ultimately chasing two 6"+ DLS Phormingochilus sp Sabah Blue that bolted in opposite directions is not fun.

What's worked for me and what you might consider doing in the future should you run into that problem and want to keep the male alive (ie not just cohabbing in the female's enclosure and hoping for the best) is consider making a neutral pairing arena to naturally allow the males to find the females' burrow without any stress from cupping or prodding on your part and give the male a long runway to escape the female. With these setups, I'm also batting 100% male survival rate. I do use a webcam to record the pairing and judge success later, but you could probably watch if you're patient.

Since you're standardized, it's actually pretty simple, you'll just need a larger container and the lids of two of your standard enclosures (this is a sacrifice of the enclosure). I've done it for the Sterilite 1932's:
View attachment 455488
View attachment 455489

I've also completed pairing arenas for the THE Medium containers and the THE Cereal containers I use for fossorials:
View attachment 455487
View attachment 455486

The basic principle is to attach the standardized lids to the bottom of the larger enclosure somehow and cut a large hole through both the lid and the bottom of the larger container.
I know you've put the arena for the big tubs to use successfully. Have you used the ones for the acrylic containers yet?
 

Ultum4Spiderz

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IME, there are some tarantula genera and specimens to a certain extent that just won't pair under observation. They're waaaay to flighty and its hard to get them to reset and focus on anything but you (the immediate threat) if you have to cup them or guide them at all. Trust me, trying to pair and ultimately chasing two 6"+ DLS Phormingochilus sp Sabah Blue that bolted in opposite directions is not fun.

What's worked for me and what you might consider doing in the future should you run into that problem and want to keep the male alive (ie not just cohabbing in the female's enclosure and hoping for the best) is consider making a neutral pairing arena to naturally allow the males to find the females' burrow without any stress from cupping or prodding on your part and give the male a long runway to escape the female. With these setups, I'm also batting 100% male survival rate. I do use a webcam to record the pairing and judge success later, but you could probably watch if you're patient.

Since you're standardized, it's actually pretty simple, you'll just need a larger container and the lids of two of your standard enclosures (this is a sacrifice of the enclosure). I've done it for the Sterilite 1932's:
View attachment 455488
View attachment 455489

I've also completed pairing arenas for the THE Medium containers and the THE Cereal containers I use for fossorials:
View attachment 455487
View attachment 455486

The basic principle is to attach the standardized lids to the bottom of the larger enclosure somehow and cut a large hole through both the lid and the bottom of the larger container.
Wow that’s amazing!!! No way I could build such a device.. good luck 🍀 on breeding!!
I’m repairing my arboreal tank today but my s cal needs to grow another 2” to fit in a 10gal.fingers crossed it isn’t a male as the ventral shots show. IMG_4511.jpeg IMG_4512.jpeg
 

l4nsky

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I know you've put the arena for the big tubs to use successfully. Have you used the ones for the acrylic containers yet?
Yes, recently with the Aphonopelma sp Dragoons pair and the Ornithoctonus sp Ranong Blue pair. Males survived both times and were separated in the morning. The post pairing body language in the recordings indicated that the pairings were successful IMO, so we'll see what happens :) .
 

MariaLewisia

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IME, there are some tarantula genera and specimens to a certain extent that just won't pair under observation. They're waaaay to flighty and its hard to get them to reset and focus on anything but you (the immediate threat) if you have to cup them or guide them at all. Trust me, trying to pair and ultimately chasing two 6"+ DLS Phormingochilus sp Sabah Blue that bolted in opposite directions is not fun.

What's worked for me and what you might consider doing in the future should you run into that problem and want to keep the male alive (ie not just cohabbing in the female's enclosure and hoping for the best) is consider making a neutral pairing arena to naturally allow the males to find the females' burrow without any stress from cupping or prodding on your part and give the male a long runway to escape the female. With these setups, I'm also batting 100% male survival rate. I do use a webcam to record the pairing and judge success later, but you could probably watch if you're patient.

Since you're standardized, it's actually pretty simple, you'll just need a larger container and the lids of two of your standard enclosures (this is a sacrifice of the enclosure). I've done it for the Sterilite 1932's:
View attachment 455488
View attachment 455489

I've also completed pairing arenas for the THE Medium containers and the THE Cereal containers I use for fossorials:
View attachment 455487
View attachment 455486

The basic principle is to attach the standardized lids to the bottom of the larger enclosure somehow and cut a large hole through both the lid and the bottom of the larger container.
Absolutely invaluable info and something I'll seriously consider moving forward. Thank you for sharing!
 

Pedipalpable

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Jan 2, 2023
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Some more sad news, unfortunately.
While doing my morning check on my Ts this morning, I noticed the remainder of my pair of Lasiocyano sazimai slings was in a full death curl.
I immediately suspected it was too late but nonetheless I tried blowing on it and giving it some water with the pipette. As I suspected, though, it was as limp and lifeless as a ragdoll.

Needless to say, I am pained by the loss. Especially seeing as it is now my 3rd sling death in a period of less than 2 months. And once again, I am left dolefully puzzled by this seemingly inexplicable death.
The sling was kept exactly the same as my other 8 1/2” and smaller slings; in a 2oz deli cup roughly half full of compressed topsoil which I keep reasonably damp. I had realized that I was overdoing it on the watering of my small slings, so I had held off on it for a week or so to let the excess water dry up, but the soil was not what I would consider too dry.

The only thing I can think of that could have potentially had some part to play in its death is the fact that the sling had not eaten in almost 39 days. And it was not in premolt, as it had just molted on July 24th and showed none of the visual signs of premolt. It ate a few times after it molted, and then began to refuse food. I tried everything I had available, but it would not touch anything I offered it. So maybe there was something going on with after its molt, and that had something to do with it not eating well and eventually dying.

Whatever the case, I am quite heartbroken to have lost this individual in addition to the other L. sazimai sling. This was a species I looked forward to watching grow up to become a stunning blue tarantula.
And to me, that is the most painful part of losing a sling; knowing it never got a chance to grow up, and that you will never get to watch it grow up.

But I guess that’s just how it goes sometimes. I do not blame myself, as I cannot think of anything I did or did not do that might have caused its death. Although I still do feel somewhat bad about it nonetheless.
Oh well. I suppose I can only do my best to learn from the experience and then try again with this species some day.

Farewell, little one. You too shall be missed.
:sad:
 

Timc

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Feb 13, 2017
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Rehoused my juvie H. pulchripes, A. aurantiaca and B. hamorii, both a molt away from adulthood, and all three went easy peasy. I’m finally caught up on rehousing and it feels great! Well, until my versi and B. smithi harden up and get put in their forever homes . And baumgarteni and machala slings that will need new enclosures after their next molt. Oh and my genic is probably a molt away too. Aaaand my T. albo doesn’t stop growing, so probably that one soon too. By that time my juruensis and purpurea slings will probably need upgrades…dang. Guess I’m not caught up after all…
 

Tbone192

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Got a lot of humidity today so my enclosures all needed their lids ajar, at separate times ofc, just to clear some of the excess moisture. Am a little worried about flooding but I'm feeling alright after seeing my little OBT doing some butt waggle webbing.
 

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l4nsky

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Which ones get the toes? Lol
Thankfully, they're off the menu since I don't keep Belostomatidae spp :rofl: .

Nice ! Popcorn 🍿 for tarantulas/inverts ! I considered getting runners but they cost more than Dubias and I’m afraid with 15 Ts I’d get overwhelmed with roaches.

I fed off 7 Dubias last night !
View attachment 455812 View attachment 455814
First thing I do is get feeders together which involves me going through records to figure out who's eating and how many I need to grab out from the colonies. Today's count was 60 male lats, 2 large female lats, 2 medium lats, and 16 male dubia.

I still have to collect more male lats from the colony lol
 

Ultum4Spiderz

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Today or last night in my t room i fed 7 or half of my Ts.

60+ runners dang that’s a lot to catch!
Maybe pm me the cheapest place to buy lats incase I decide to get them for my Ts under 5”.. however I may just buy crickets.
Thankfully, they're off the menu since I don't keep Belostomatidae spp :rofl: .


First thing I do is get feeders together which involves me going through records to figure out who's eating and how many I need to grab out from the colonies. Today's count was 60 male lats, 2 large female lats, 2 medium lats, and 16 male dubia.

I still have to collect more male lats from the colony lol
Yeah I been wondering from someone who owns both which is better dubia or lats?? Can discuss it more here I’m not derailing this thread .
 

l4nsky

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60+ runners dang that’s a lot to catch!
There are tricks that make it easier than one would think ;)

Maybe pm me the cheapest place to buy lats incase I decide to get them for my Ts under 5”.. however I may just buy crickets.
I'm afraid I won't be too much help in that regard. I got my colony in spring of 2021 from ebay I believe and haven't purchased any since.

Yeah I been wondering from someone who owns both which is better dubia or lats??
It's like comparing apples to oranges and really depends on what species of tarantula you're keeping. Lats are a well rounded feeder that can feed anything from 2i slings to an 0.1 T. stirmi, but if you're feeding a lot of larger spiders, it's best to go with dubia as you can completely decimate a lateralis colony by feeding off too many breeding adults.

Since I breed tarantulas and need to feed a lot of slings plus I have 26 adults over 5.5" DLS currently, I keep both lateralis and dubia to cover my basis.
 

Ultum4Spiderz

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There are tricks that make it easier than one would think ;)


I'm afraid I won't be too much help in that regard. I got my colony in spring of 2021 from ebay I believe and haven't purchased any since.


It's like comparing apples to oranges and really depends on what species of tarantula you're keeping. Lats are a well rounded feeder that can feed anything from 2i slings to an 0.1 T. stirmi, but if you're feeding a lot of larger spiders, it's best to go with dubia as you can completely decimate a lateralis colony by feeding off too many breeding adults.

Since I breed tarantulas and need to feed a lot of slings plus I have 26 adults over 5.5" DLS currently, I keep both lateralis and dubia to cover my basis.
My orange head roach colony is about a year away from producing feeders. Maybe I’ll just stick to that as my second species . I really wanted lats but most my Ts are over 5”. Comes down to whose more prolific orange roaches or lats.
 

Rigor Mortis

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Nov 7, 2018
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Got my G. iheringi into her new enclosure. Modified aquarium tank w/ a plexiglass lid and enough dirt to bury treasure in. She's exploring the hell out of it right now. Also got my dad's LP rehoused, she's a jerk. Bolty little thing. I hope she mellows out when she gets bigger.
 
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