Tarantula Questions - Chilean Rose

Whiskers

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
35
You would absolutely need to seperate them. Tarantulas are extremely prone to cannibalism (except for a very few species, Grammostola rosea is NOT one of these). You will end up with one very well-fed tarantula if you attempt to keep multiple Grammostola rosea in one enclosure. The good news is, each tarantula needs only a small amount of space (3 to 4 times their legspan), so setting up a new enclosure for a second tarantula shouldn't be a problem. I would, however, recommend looking at other species - G. rosea tend to be pet rocks and can get boring. Adding new species to your collection will let you observe new behaviors.
Alright thanks. :) I'm noticing the whole "pet rocK" analogy. He barely moves at all.

Would you recommend another species? I don't want anything fast-moving or aggressive, but an active spider would be nice. :p

Woah! He's been making rounds in his enclosure, just going around and around the entire tank. What's this all about?! Maybe it's exercise hour? Could he be looking for the cricket I tossed in there yesterday (who is still chillin' in there with him)?
 
Last edited:

poisoned

Arachnodemon
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
689
Alright thanks. :) I'm noticing the whole "pet rocK" analogy. He barely moves at all.

Would you recommend another species? I don't want anything fast-moving or aggressive, but an active spider would be nice. :p
All tarantulas are capable of high speed bursts, the difference is, how long these bursts are. Activity is low even with most active species. And, most spiders aren't aggressive towards human, defensive is better term, since most won't chase you :)

If I were you, I'd get Brachypelma or Avicularia as next T.

Woah! He's been making rounds in his enclosure, just going around and around the entire tank. What's this all about?! Maybe it's exercise hour? Could he be looking for the cricket I tossed in there yesterday (who is still chillin' in there with him)?
If he's a mature male, it's completely normal. He's looking for some hot girls :)
 

Kodi

Title Master
Old Timer
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
315
If he's a mature male, it's completely normal. He's looking for some hot girls :)
Hahaha. I also recommend Avicularia. Its a tree spider so you would need a different set up, but you need a different kind of spider to keep entertained. :]
 

Vespula

Arachnodemon
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
706
If you're looking for an awesome new addition, allow me to recommend the Aphonopelma chalcodes! They're an amazing spider to keep, no matter the level of experience the keeper has, and are a tad bit more active than G. rosea. I may be kinda biased, though, seeing as A. chalcodes is my favorite. :)
 

Whiskers

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
35
All tarantulas are capable of high speed bursts, the difference is, how long these bursts are. Activity is low even with most active species. And, most spiders aren't aggressive towards human, defensive is better term, since most won't chase you :)

If I were you, I'd get Brachypelma or Avicularia as next T.


If he's a mature male, it's completely normal. He's looking for some hot girls :)
I could put a nice doll's dress on my hand and...
 

Alltheworld601

Arachnoangel
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
791
It seems to be the general consensus - i just got a pet spider. now i want 200 more. I'm in the same place, my friend. I think we all are! Haha.

Also though I'm surprised nobody mentioned this..though Stan's article covers it I know, but misting, peat moss, anything that makes the substrate wet, will make your rosie freak out. they're desert animals, basically. dont spray them. they hate it. mine hung on the glass for two days when i first got her, and i even knew not to wet the substrate, but the stuff i got had to soften in water first (eco earth bricks) and then dry out, to my touch it was dry, but apparently she was dissatisfied. they are very very picky.
 

derp105

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
22
I totally agree with above poster, I just got a B. boehmei and less then a week later im going back to get a P. scrofa. lol
 

HairyCelt

Arachnosquire
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
53
Pretty much what everyone said....

From my experience Rosies like it bone dry - you'll probably find it will spend most of its time on the rock or sides of the enclosure if the substrate is damp.

I think 80F+ is a bit high - I keep mine at around the 75F mark. Temps drop quite dramaticaslly in the natural environment and I've read that they prefer the low - mid 70s.

Mine has a habit of gorging itself for a couple of months but then will fast, big style. (It's only eaten 6 adult crickets over the past thirteen months but looks perfectly healthy with no signs of shrinkage in its abdomen)

The water dish looks fine - I change the water every 2 or 3 days.

The huge majority are complete darlings should you choose to handle them (I rarely do) though each spider has its own "personality". I have a G.pulchra - reportedly one of the calmest species - that vigorously threatens anything that goes into the enclosure, animate or otherwise. On the plus side, it never attempts to bite, just slaps out with its forelegs or darts off into its burrow.

As for a second, I'd be inclined with a G. pulchra or G.pulchripes (a beautiful animal which can get to a nice size) if you want a slow growing species, or B.albopilosum if you want something that grows a wee bit quicker.

and then get and then get and then get.........
 

Whiskers

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
35
Thanks everyone, for all the help. :) I definitely feel more at ease about it now, knowing that there really isn't anything special that needs to be done in order for him to thrive.

Would it be OK to leave one cricket in there until he decides to eat it?
 

Hobo

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Staff member
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
2,208
Hope you are aware that mature males only live a couple of years (typically two to three years for rosea) tops after maturing. So, assuming you recieved him already mature, you may have little time left with him. You might wanna consider loaning him out to someone with a female, so he could have a chance to sow his oats.

Also, if you think your mature male tarantula is a "pet rock", then I've got some bad news for you.
Mature males are about as active as tarantulas get!
 

Whiskers

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
35
Hope you are aware that mature males only live a couple of years (typically two to three years for rosea) tops after maturing. So, assuming you recieved him already mature, you may have little time left with him. You might wanna consider loaning him out to someone with a female, so he could have a chance to sow his oats.

Also, if you think your mature male tarantula is a "pet rock", then I've got some bad news for you.
Mature males are about as active as tarantulas get!
Well that seems pretty lame then. :(

I was going to get a female in a couple of weeks anyway. :)
 

Vespula

Arachnodemon
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
706
If you're thinking of breeding them, do a ton of research first. Make sure everything is reasy. Read all the breeding reports. Ask questions. And good luck.
 

Whiskers

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
35
If you're thinking of breeding them, do a ton of research first. Make sure everything is reasy. Read all the breeding reports. Ask questions. And good luck.
Yeah :) I wouldn't want to try it until I'd read up on it enough to feel comfortable doing it.

Going to try to handle him for the first time (not taking him out of his container though). I hope I don't get bitten!

Edit: Gah I can't do it! >_< I'm afraid he's going to become defensive and bite me, or that I'll get him in my hand and then he'll do something that will freak me out so bad I'll drop him, which is something I know would hurt/kill him. :(
 
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Sharno

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Jul 29, 2012
Messages
94
Well that seems pretty lame then. :(

I was going to get a female in a couple of weeks anyway. :)
Imagine if you did not find this forum, and the uneducated Petco people told you to go ahead and just get a another t and put it in there, and you did get a female who mated with your male who happened to be mature. You'd have accidentally bred. Next thing you know you'd be on here with an eggsac taking pictures and everyone would be like - what!? And you've have all these babies.
 

HairyCelt

Arachnosquire
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
53
Going to try to handle him for the first time (not taking him out of his container though). I hope I don't get bitten!
:(
If you're going to handle him for the first time can I suggest you sit on the floor with the enclosure in front of you - even a small fall can be fatal to a T. (This is especially true if you're at all unsure - if the T decides to scarper it'll only fall a short distance).

Also, if it does do a runner, don't panic - Ts can't run and breath at the same time as they use their haemolymph ("blood") to hydraulically extend their legs, which only have contractor muscles. It'll only run a short distance before stopping to catch its breath.
Then you can either pick it up or coax it into a container if you're still a little unsure.

(It's EXTREMELY unlikely that the wee beastie will even attempt to bite - even the most recalcitrant Rosie will most likely kick a few hairs or give a leg-slap. Watch out for the hairs and keep the animal away from your face. Always wash your hands after handling, just in case there are a few stray urticating hairs left on them. I like to wash before handling to ensure there are no chemicals or the like that may harm the spider).

Good Luck, stay calm and enjoy.
 

Stan Schultz

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Messages
1,677
Alright, I just bought a Rose-Hair tarantula today. ...
Oh, oh! Sounds suspiciously like a newbie to me! I get the sense that this may be your first tarantula, or that you haven't had tarantulas for very long, that you may be a "newbie." In any case, to make sure that you're starting out on the right foot and have been introduced to all the basic issues, I'm going to begin with my soon-to-be-world-notorious NEWBIE INTRODUCTION.

If I'm mistaken, I apologize. But, even if you aren't a newbie I suggest that you read through it for review. (I just LUVS doing this!) Please stand by while I load the canned message.


[size=+1]HEY PEOPLE! WE'VE GOT ANOTHER NEWBIE HERE![/SIZE]​

Cue the mariachis, the confetti, and the clowns. :clown: Let's start the party!

Whiskers, please don't be offended! I've been messing with tarantulas longer than most people on this forum have been alive, and I still consider myself a newbie. I'm just having a little fun with you.

:biggrin:


Okay, let's get down to business. First, the pleasantries:

[SIZE=+1]"Welcome to the hobby!"

"Welcome to these forums!"
[/size]


Now, to get you started on the right foot I urge you to read the following webpages.

Stan's Rant - A little initial boost in the right direction.
BE SURE TO READ AND HEED THE WARNINGS! They'll save you a bundle of cash and maybe a few dead tarantulas!
BE SURE TO READ THE BOOKS! The books will not only answer all your questions, but will also answer all the questions you hadn't thought to ask!

Myths, Misconceptions, and Mistakes Perpetuated by Tarantula Enthusiasts - A growing list of bad information in the hobby. Be sure to explore all the links.

And since you have a Chilean rose tarantula (Grammostola rosea) you definitely should also read Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula - How NOT to let your Chilean rose tarantula drive you to the funny farm!

Lastly, you should read Substrate to get to the down and dirty of the situation.

:roflmao:

Additional Thoughts:

Good Starting Philosophy:
Most newbies start out trying to make tarantula care as complicated as possible, fretting over all sorts of silly things. For the beginner at least, and for most of us experienced aficionados as well, the best philosophy is, SIMPLE IS BETTER! As long as it supplies the basic necessities, the simpler your tarantula's cage is, the less there is to go wrong.

The Search Function:
Don't take this as a criticism, but if you don't already know about it, please learn to use the Search function at the top of the page. It'll save us all a lot of time and effort. Most novices and even many seasoned enthusiasts fail to appreciate that 95+% of all tarantula issues have already been addressed, sometimes ad nauseam, on these forums. All you need do is look for the discussions.

A Basic Operating Principle:
If you can't find an answer to your concern using the Search function (after all, search engines are far from perfect), by all means ask us. Remember,

"The only dumb questions are the ones you don't ask."
"And, dumb questions are always easier to deal with than dumb mistakes!"



Fire away!

"We aims to please."



Also, has no one told you?

[size=+2]THE TARANTULA KEEPER'S LAMENT

Like those potato chips,

you can't have just one!



You've been warned![/size]

(And, we offer a tip of the ol' hat and our profound thanks to the Frito-Lay Company for institutionalizing the progenitor of this little joke.)​

Visit the webpages. Read the warnings. Read the books. Watch these forums. Do the searches.

DON'T DO ANYTHING ANYBODY TELLS YOU UNLESS ITS CONFIRMED IN ONE OF THOSE BOOKS, OR WE CONFIRM IT HERE!

IGNORE THE !@#$%! CARE SHEETS!

Then, get back to us with any concerns you may have. We're here to help.

Again, you need to read, READ, READ!

Lastly, it would help a lot if you would post several photos of your tarantula from several different angles, and several photos of its cage from several different angles. A few cell phones work okay, but most can't focus close enough, and proper focus is very important. If at all possible use a better camera. Maybe borrow one from a family member or friend? A picture is worth 1000 words! Besides, "We LUVS pichers!"


End Canned Message


Hobo beat me to it, but I'm still going to stay the course and give you the full, nickel tour.

... I read up on their habitat and what they'll need. ...
OMG! You haven't been reading those !@#$%! care sheets have you? Instead, read Care Sheets....

The one webpage you really need to read is the one recommended by Hobo: Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula.

... I have a 5 gallon (approximately, it is made specifically for tarantulas) that he is sitting in, ...
Five gallons (20 L) is okay if everything else is correct. We desperately need to see a photo of this thing. Most cages specifically made for tarantulas are made by reptile people. Tarantulas aren't reptiles. They require completely different cages and are cared for completely differently. You're going to find this out more and more as time goes on. It's part of your "tarantula training."

... with plenty of "bedding" (?), ...
But, how much do you think is "plenty?" And the word you're groping for is "substrate." Be sure to read Substrate so you have a handle on what you're doing.

... some moist moss, ...
AAAaaaarrgghhh! These are desert tarantulas! They don't want either "moist" or "moss!" They want dry!

You HAVE BEEN reading those !@#$%! care sheets, haven't you! Come one, now! Fess up!

... a nice fake hollow rock for him to crawl into, and a watering dish. ...
Ah! Something you may have done correctly. Can we see a photo of the setup to make sure? Please?

... I also placed a thermometer inside so that I can monitor his habitat's temp to ensure he's comfortable at all times. ...
IT'S NEITHER A CANARY NOR A GUPPY! Any temperature you're comfortable at is just fine for it. YOU'RE THE FRAGILE SPECIES! NOT THE TARANTULA!

... I have crickets that I will be feeding him. I put one in his tank earlier, and he hasn't touched it. It seems to be wandering around, chirping some. It seems pretty natural. Will it be OK to leave the cricket in there until my Tarantula gets hungry and decides to devour it, or should I remove it from the tank and try again in a couple of days? ...
Don't try to feed a new tarantula for a week or so. Once you do start to feed it, give it its food in the evening just before you turn the lights out. Tarantulas not accustomed to cage life sometimes won't eat at first unless its dark. If the cricket isn't eaten overnight you may remove it the next morning, but I never did. The tarantula will eventually eat it when it's good and ready too.

The only time when there might be a problem with leaving a cricket with a tarantula is when the tarantula is preparing to molt. When the spider is actually on its back and shedding its skin it's pretty much helpless and crickets have been known to try to eat the tarantula, causing it some harm and the enthusiast great stress. But, your tarantula may not molt until sometime in October through January (probably), or maybe not for a couple of years. But the subject of molting and Chilean roses is much more complicated than that. You need to read Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula and then get back to us to fill in the finer points.

As a group, tarantulas need little food, and Chilean roses are the avant-garde in that respect. Your Chilean rose will live for two (2) years without eating if it has to, for instance. Don't stress over food. When you do feed it, feed only one (1) cricket a week or four (4) to five (5) crickets a month. NO MORE! It's okay to mete the crickets out every week, feed them all at once, or adopt any schedule that fits your routine. Your choice. Just remember ONLY AN AVERAGE OF ONE (1) A WEEK! NO MORE!

... Also, the temperature seems to fluctuate between 83F-92F slowly over a period of time. Will this cause the spider to become stressed, or will he be able to comfortably adjust to the gradual changes in temperature? ...
You desperately need to read Temperature... as soon as possible!

... The watering dish is bigger than he is, but there is only about 2 centimeters of water in it. Will he be able to crawl down into the dish slightly to drink, or should I swap the dish for something more shallow? ...
For just about all normal sized, adult tarantulas, a water dish about the size and shape of a standard, traditional tune fish can is about right. But, enthusiasts have been known to use all sorts of silly things. The tarantula is easily capable of finding the water, whatever you do. Just make sure that clean water is always available. The major question is how much time and effort do you want to waste on fiddling with a water dish. A shallow dish will require filling often. A deeper dish can merely be sunk into the substrate a little.

... How often should I change the bedding? Will it need to be changed at all? ...
The rule of thumb is to change the substrate and clean the cage at least once a year, usually just before the molting season. For most tarantulas that amounts to being late winter or very early spring. We do this to reduce or remove any potential vermin infestations in preparation for the tarantula's impending molt. However, Chilean roses pose a special problem because of their issues with the "Hemisphere Shift" and its effect on their annual cycle for the first few years after being imported.

So, in your case, clean the cage every February regardless of when the tarantula molts. Also, tarantulas are normally very clean, odorless pets. If the cage develops an odor it means things have become too dirty and it's time for a cage cleaning regardless of the time of year.

... How often should I spray the tank to keep the humidity high enough to keep him comfortable? ...
AAAaaaarrgghhh! These are desert tarantulas! They don't want either "humidity" or "spray!" They want dry!

You HAVE BEEN reading those !@#$%! care sheets, haven't you! Come one, now! Fess up!

You NEVER spray or mist a Chilean rose. For that matter, you NEVER spray or mist any tarantula! Spraying or misting tarantulas is SOOOoooooo twentieth century! The only reason anyone might wish to spray or mist is to raise the humidity in the tarantula's cage. And we now know a much, MUCH, MUCH better way to do that. IF you think your tarantula needs a higher humidity you merely cover the cage to eliminate almost all ventilation. The water evaporates from the water dish to raise the humidity slowly and constantly with absolutely no effort on your part, and without annoying your tarantula.

... Will he be safe to handle, or is there a chance he could be aggressive? I don't plan on handling him often, just during major changes to his tank. ...
The subject of handling has been known to cause flame wars that rivaled the American Civil War in length and intensity! I will not go into it here. Instead, read the books mentioned in Stan's Rant.

... Anything else you could throw in as far as tips to keep him happy would be greatly appreciated. I apologize for the barrage of questions, but I want to make sure my pet tarantula is as well cared for as possible. ...
Okay... the basic plan is to set up as simple and basic a cage as will support the tarantula, make sure it has water, THEN GO AWAY! Leave it alone. Don't feed it. Don't fuss with it. After a week, check the water dish, and refill it if needed. Throw in one (1) cricket. Come back the next day to see if the cricket was eaten. You may safely leave the cricket in the tarantula's cage for several days if you wish. Repeat this once a week. Period!

You really, badly, desperately need to read those books! You really, badly, desperately need to read those webpages! You really, badly, desperately need to perform a lot of searches on this forum!

BUT, DON'T DO ANYTHING ANYBODY TELLS YOU UNLESS ITS CONFIRMED IN ONE OF THOSE BOOKS, OR WE CONFIRM IT HERE!

There! I've done enough damage. I'll leave you now to do your homework. YOU NEEDS TO DO YOUR HOMEWORK! :laugh:

Enjoy your little, 8-legged, desert hermit!
 

Whiskers

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
35
Oh, oh! Sounds suspiciously like a newbie to me! I get the sense that this may be your first tarantula, or that you haven't had tarantulas for very long, that you may be a "newbie." In any case, to make sure that you're starting out on the right foot and have been introduced to all the basic issues, I'm going to begin with my soon-to-be-world-notorious NEWBIE INTRODUCTION.

If I'm mistaken, I apologize. But, even if you aren't a newbie I suggest that you read through it for review. (I just LUVS doing this!) Please stand by while I load the canned message.


[size=+1]HEY PEOPLE! WE'VE GOT ANOTHER NEWBIE HERE![/SIZE]​

Cue the mariachis, the confetti, and the clowns. :clown: Let's start the party!

Whiskers, please don't be offended! I've been messing with tarantulas longer than most people on this forum have been alive, and I still consider myself a newbie. I'm just having a little fun with you.

:biggrin:


Okay, let's get down to business. First, the pleasantries:

[SIZE=+1]"Welcome to the hobby!"

"Welcome to these forums!"
[/size]


Now, to get you started on the right foot I urge you to read the following webpages.

Stan's Rant - A little initial boost in the right direction.
BE SURE TO READ AND HEED THE WARNINGS! They'll save you a bundle of cash and maybe a few dead tarantulas!
BE SURE TO READ THE BOOKS! The books will not only answer all your questions, but will also answer all the questions you hadn't thought to ask!

Myths, Misconceptions, and Mistakes Perpetuated by Tarantula Enthusiasts - A growing list of bad information in the hobby. Be sure to explore all the links.

And since you have a Chilean rose tarantula (Grammostola rosea) you definitely should also read Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula - How NOT to let your Chilean rose tarantula drive you to the funny farm!

Lastly, you should read Substrate to get to the down and dirty of the situation.

:roflmao:

Additional Thoughts:

Good Starting Philosophy:
Most newbies start out trying to make tarantula care as complicated as possible, fretting over all sorts of silly things. For the beginner at least, and for most of us experienced aficionados as well, the best philosophy is, SIMPLE IS BETTER! As long as it supplies the basic necessities, the simpler your tarantula's cage is, the less there is to go wrong.

The Search Function:
Don't take this as a criticism, but if you don't already know about it, please learn to use the Search function at the top of the page. It'll save us all a lot of time and effort. Most novices and even many seasoned enthusiasts fail to appreciate that 95+% of all tarantula issues have already been addressed, sometimes ad nauseam, on these forums. All you need do is look for the discussions.

A Basic Operating Principle:
If you can't find an answer to your concern using the Search function (after all, search engines are far from perfect), by all means ask us. Remember,

"The only dumb questions are the ones you don't ask."
"And, dumb questions are always easier to deal with than dumb mistakes!"



Fire away!

"We aims to please."



Also, has no one told you?

[size=+2]THE TARANTULA KEEPER'S LAMENT

Like those potato chips,

you can't have just one!



You've been warned![/size]

(And, we offer a tip of the ol' hat and our profound thanks to the Frito-Lay Company for institutionalizing the progenitor of this little joke.)​

Visit the webpages. Read the warnings. Read the books. Watch these forums. Do the searches.

DON'T DO ANYTHING ANYBODY TELLS YOU UNLESS ITS CONFIRMED IN ONE OF THOSE BOOKS, OR WE CONFIRM IT HERE!

IGNORE THE !@#$%! CARE SHEETS!

Then, get back to us with any concerns you may have. We're here to help.

Again, you need to read, READ, READ!

Lastly, it would help a lot if you would post several photos of your tarantula from several different angles, and several photos of its cage from several different angles. A few cell phones work okay, but most can't focus close enough, and proper focus is very important. If at all possible use a better camera. Maybe borrow one from a family member or friend? A picture is worth 1000 words! Besides, "We LUVS pichers!"


End Canned Message


Hobo beat me to it, but I'm still going to stay the course and give you the full, nickel tour.



OMG! You haven't been reading those !@#$%! care sheets have you? Instead, read Care Sheets....

The one webpage you really need to read is the one recommended by Hobo: Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula.



Five gallons (20 L) is okay if everything else is correct. We desperately need to see a photo of this thing. Most cages specifically made for tarantulas are made by reptile people. Tarantulas aren't reptiles. They require completely different cages and are cared for completely differently. You're going to find this out more and more as time goes on. It's part of your "tarantula training."



But, how much do you think is "plenty?" And the word you're groping for is "substrate." Be sure to read Substrate so you have a handle on what you're doing.



AAAaaaarrgghhh! These are desert tarantulas! They don't want either "moist" or "moss!" They want dry!

You HAVE BEEN reading those !@#$%! care sheets, haven't you! Come one, now! Fess up!



Ah! Something you may have done correctly. Can we see a photo of the setup to make sure? Please?



IT'S NEITHER A CANARY NOR A GUPPY! Any temperature you're comfortable at is just fine for it. YOU'RE THE FRAGILE SPECIES! NOT THE TARANTULA!



Don't try to feed a new tarantula for a week or so. Once you do start to feed it, give it its food in the evening just before you turn the lights out. Tarantulas not accustomed to cage life sometimes won't eat at first unless its dark. If the cricket isn't eaten overnight you may remove it the next morning, but I never did. The tarantula will eventually eat it when it's good and ready too.

The only time when there might be a problem with leaving a cricket with a tarantula is when the tarantula is preparing to molt. When the spider is actually on its back and shedding its skin it's pretty much helpless and crickets have been known to try to eat the tarantula, causing it some harm and the enthusiast great stress. But, your tarantula may not molt until sometime in October through January (probably), or maybe not for a couple of years. But the subject of molting and Chilean roses is much more complicated than that. You need to read Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula and then get back to us to fill in the finer points.

As a group, tarantulas need little food, and Chilean roses are the avant-garde in that respect. Your Chilean rose will live for two (2) years without eating if it has to, for instance. Don't stress over food. When you do feed it, feed only one (1) cricket a week or four (4) to five (5) crickets a month. NO MORE! It's okay to mete the crickets out every week, feed them all at once, or adopt any schedule that fits your routine. Your choice. Just remember ONLY AN AVERAGE OF ONE (1) A WEEK! NO MORE!



You desperately need to read Temperature... as soon as possible!



For just about all normal sized, adult tarantulas, a water dish about the size and shape of a standard, traditional tune fish can is about right. But, enthusiasts have been known to use all sorts of silly things. The tarantula is easily capable of finding the water, whatever you do. Just make sure that clean water is always available. The major question is how much time and effort do you want to waste on fiddling with a water dish. A shallow dish will require filling often. A deeper dish can merely be sunk into the substrate a little.



The rule of thumb is to change the substrate and clean the cage at least once a year, usually just before the molting season. For most tarantulas that amounts to being late winter or very early spring. We do this to reduce or remove any potential vermin infestations in preparation for the tarantula's impending molt. However, Chilean roses pose a special problem because of their issues with the "Hemisphere Shift" and its effect on their annual cycle for the first few years after being imported.

So, in your case, clean the cage every February regardless of when the tarantula molts. Also, tarantulas are normally very clean, odorless pets. If the cage develops an odor it means things have become too dirty and it's time for a cage cleaning regardless of the time of year.



AAAaaaarrgghhh! These are desert tarantulas! They don't want either "humidity" or "spray!" They want dry!

You HAVE BEEN reading those !@#$%! care sheets, haven't you! Come one, now! Fess up!

You NEVER spray or mist a Chilean rose. For that matter, you NEVER spray or mist any tarantula! Spraying or misting tarantulas is SOOOoooooo twentieth century! The only reason anyone might wish to spray or mist is to raise the humidity in the tarantula's cage. And we now know a much, MUCH, MUCH better way to do that. IF you think your tarantula needs a higher humidity you merely cover the cage to eliminate almost all ventilation. The water evaporates from the water dish to raise the humidity slowly and constantly with absolutely no effort on your part, and without annoying your tarantula.



The subject of handling has been known to cause flame wars that rivaled the American Civil War in length and intensity! I will not go into it here. Instead, read the books mentioned in Stan's Rant.



Okay... the basic plan is to set up as simple and basic a cage as will support the tarantula, make sure it has water, THEN GO AWAY! Leave it alone. Don't feed it. Don't fuss with it. After a week, check the water dish, and refill it if needed. Throw in one (1) cricket. Come back the next day to see if the cricket was eaten. You may safely leave the cricket in the tarantula's cage for several days if you wish. Repeat this once a week. Period!

You really, badly, desperately need to read those books! You really, badly, desperately need to read those webpages! You really, badly, desperately need to perform a lot of searches on this forum!

BUT, DON'T DO ANYTHING ANYBODY TELLS YOU UNLESS ITS CONFIRMED IN ONE OF THOSE BOOKS, OR WE CONFIRM IT HERE!

There! I've done enough damage. I'll leave you now to do your homework. YOU NEEDS TO DO YOUR HOMEWORK! :laugh:

Enjoy your little, 8-legged, desert hermit!
Not offended in the least, I specifically searched for a forum dedicated to Tarantulas, with a community who knew what they were talking about, so that I would receive some criticism. I want to learn as much as possible.

Thanks :) Gonna go read those webpages now.
 
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