- Joined
- Mar 1, 2004
- Messages
- 172
I mostly use this in the cricket and roach bins, and I use the detail extension that is really narrow like the straw. Never put the vac end near the spider!
Great idea!Strangest suggestion ever if you're going to use a vacuum... Take a straw and a roll of tape and make the straw into an extension of the hose on the vacuum. I usually use electric or duct tape. I actually use this trick on strange spots on a car engine while doing a rebuild. In this case though, the straw is slightly flexible and small to get to odd spots, with the added benefit of extra length to keep your hands farther away from a T that is likely to be a little upset about the noisy invasion.
Thank you! Got rid of the Avic source, going home soon to figure out my H Mac today.. Didn't see an infestation like yesterday morningGood luck on a quick annihilation of those gnats Eldon!
I have rehoused my H. Mac with no trouble. Seems that there was a heavy infestation in there. There are still some flies hanging around here and there but no heavy populations. I'm allowing some of my enclosures to dry out as well so that should help i hope.. But as far as I can see, it seems i have brought down the reich!!!-=}GA']['OR{=-;2345097 said:Good deal!
It seems that bio control is getting a bad reputation lately, which doesn't make a lot of sense to me. The only good cases against bio control are incredibly old (mongoose, cane toads, etc.) and obviously aren't being carried out anymore. The phorid flies that are parasitizing honeybees are actually a different species from the ones imported to control fire ants. In fact, they're a native species that typically parasitizes bumble bees. My guess is that they're going through a host shift and may possibly speciate, but it's too early to tell in the research ( http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0029639 ) Also, they play a very minor role in honeybee deaths and are highly unlikely to be a root cause of Colony Collapse Disorder. It's more likely that the bees are being weakened by something else (virus, mites, pesticides, etc.) and then are falling victim to the flies.-=}GA']['OR{=-;2344716 said:They are attracted to any decaying organic matter that has a good moisture content. They LOVE dead crickets and are sometimes transmitted in with your crickets. They look similar to fruit flies as they have a stocky appearance while flying. A big difference is that they are also called "scuttle" flies due to their fondness for running and darting along substrate rather than flying. This behavior is readily apparent and that's one way you can tell the two apart, aside from the fruit flies having red eyes.
If you have phorids the best thing to do is find the source and clean and dry up the area of infection. The maggots are very sensitive to moisture and will dry out and die if the moisture is removed. Everybody gets them from time to time,as they are an introduced species from South America. They were brought here to parasitize and control fire ants in the southern states, and they are naturalizing in most areas. They will come into your house in the summer through holes in your screens etc.
Another unfortunate effect of phorids is they are targeting honeybees as well and have been implicated in CCD, colony collapse disorder. They parasitize the bees and control the bees actions, thus affecting the overall production of the hive.
Yet another example of an introduced species that does it's initial intended job {fire ant control} reasonably well, but disrupts life elsewhere.
Do explain plzHypoaspis miles will eradicate your fungus gnats
Thanks for the help!Hypoaspis miles are predatory mites. They eat fungus gnat eggs and larvae and a few other soil born pests. Once the gnats are gone the H. miles die off. If you use them be sure to add some to any house plants you have as well.
Be prepared to retreat occasionally because these pests don't come in the soil they just move there. Fungus gnats get really bad in the fall when fruit drops from trees and doesn't get picked up.
Just found these stupid things in crickets I bought today. I'm glad I noticed before I fed them :/-=}GA']['OR{=-;2344703 said:No problem. I hate phorids, they can wreak havoc in a collection.
Just found these stupid things in crickets I bought today. I'm glad I noticed before I fed them :/
Oh I tossed them before they got in the house. Never left the bag. Ain't nobody got time fo dat.Dont worry the eggs they laid will find a way.
Good job with the quick thinking, saved yourself from the always fun eradication process! =)Just found these stupid things in crickets I bought today. I'm glad I noticed before I fed them :/
This is what I have witnessed also. I would always view flies in a cage as a potential problem.No matter if they are fungus gnats or phorid flies, the maggots will kill your tarantulas. Ive had many slings, and some juvies and adults sucked right out of their skin by these demons. They just leave a shell that looks like a molt.
Correct....I've used them a few times with no ill effects on my t's, scorps, and pedes. They eat all of the target species in the soil and when they have exhausted all of the food source they die off. I put them in my plants, roach bins, and mealworm colonies as well. They can keep propagating as long as they have a food source.Point of clarification for someone new to using a biological cleanup crew, Hypoaspis mites won't cause the T any problems? They only eat the soil born pests?
No problem, I am pretty sure that Hypoaspis are your best bet as a generalist pest predator. I would give Evergreen a call and see if they would have more insight. They may have different suggestions that would suit you better.Thank you for the information. Is there a type of biological cleanup that would be a little more generalized in it's target without harming Ts?