Moakmeister
Arachnodemon
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2016
- Messages
- 755
I’d love to get some of those for the occasional exciting feed. I wanna see my new P. imperator grab one.I feed my Ts locusts
I’d be open to starting a colony
I’d love to get some of those for the occasional exciting feed. I wanna see my new P. imperator grab one.I feed my Ts locusts
I’d be open to starting a colony
Sounds like misinformation they are one of the best feeders for inverts.I meant super worms- were did you get the idea they are not nutritious for any length of time???
Because I have a small collection of tarantulas of about 30 adults (or nearly so) and don’t need to keep a large self sustaining colony of feeder bugs. For me it is easier to get 50 adult crickets from the pet supply store about once every other month. Also, I learned how to take care of crickets properly and they don’t die and stink the next day.You voluntarily went back to crickets? Why?
I've got a large self-sustaining colony of feeder bugs for 4 adult tarantulas. I just hate leaving the house.Because I have a small collection of tarantulas of about 30 adults (or nearly so) and don’t need to keep a large self sustaining colony of feeder bugs. For me it is easier to get 50 adult crickets from the pet supply store about once every other month. Also, I learned how to take care of crickets properly and they don’t die and stink the next day.
My roaches aren’t growing fast enough I had to use mealworms . Oddly most of my mealworms aren’t getting very big. So there too small for my adult TsBecause I have a small collection of tarantulas of about 30 adults (or nearly so) and don’t need to keep a large self sustaining colony of feeder bugs. For me it is easier to get 50 adult crickets from the pet supply store about once every other month. Also, I learned how to take care of crickets properly and they don’t die and stink the next day.
Likely doesn't existExactly my point, I want the source of his data
Whenever I've seen nutritional info it has ALWAYS been with regards to other animals, usually reptiles. Tarantulas have never been proven to have such nutritional needs.....feed only mealworms, get a healthy t....feed only crickets, get a healthy t, feed only roaches, get the same healthy t.....etc.Than dubias? I’ve always heard for years that dubias are the best and healthiest feeders ever!
I wish we had the capability to find this stuff out ourselves. Unfortunately the biology community has this very low on their priority list.Likely doesn't exist
Whenever I've seen nutritional info it has ALWAYS been with regards to other animals, usually reptiles. Tarantulas have never been proven to have such nutritional needs.....feed only mealworms, get a healthy t....feed only crickets, get a healthy t, feed only roaches, get the same healthy t.....etc.
Moral of the story, feed whatever you want or whatever is convenient.
Might change in the future lol. I've been chasing an issue I've been having growing up Omothymus spp from 2i to 4" DLS. Any I've acquired over that size have been perfectly fine, but most under that size get a few molts in and then die after a molt with some pretty clear neuro issues.Moral of the story, feed whatever you want or whatever is convenient.
Lowkey interested in this experiment. Do keep us posted.Might change in the future lol. I've been chasing an issue I've been having growing up Omothymus spp from 2i to 4" DLS. Any I've acquired over that size have been perfectly fine, but most under that size get a few molts in and then die after a molt with some pretty clear neuro issues.
I think I have it tied back to high uric acid intake in combination with the high uric acid this genus likely produces naturally due to their immense growth rate. Essentially, my theory is the Malpighian tubules can't cope with the sheer amount of toxins in the body and they're passing from this buildup.
I believe the high uric acid intake is due to lateralis roaches being able to convert protein into uric acid for storage much the same way we store extra calories as fat. My colonies have been fed a >20% protein diet to boost production for years, but now I'm switching them to a 15% protein to see if I can get better results growing Omothymus, maintain the colony's production rates, and not impact any other species.