Some noob questions

Swoop

Arachnosquire
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
94
Hi guys, new member here. As a kid I always caught spiders, mantids, all kinds of invertebrates and had a G. rosea for five or six years. Lately I thought it might be fun to get another tarantula and this forum convinced me I actually want dozens but maybe I'll start with just a few lol.

So I've done a little poking around on the forum and elsewhere and a few themes seem to come up a lot in the 'T's for beginners' discussions that I don't really get. Fast or slow growth is mentioned a lot; is this just because people equate slow with boring, or do fast and slow growers require different care (other than frequency of feeding)?

What's the distinction between a sling and a juvenile? I'd like to get small T's and watch them develop (plus less $) but not if my inexperience is going to put them at unreasonable risk. Is there a particular size for the species I'm interested in (below) where they're a 'juvenile' and no longer a sling?

I've identified several terrestrial NW species that I like and found reputable dealers with slings/juveniles for sale. Will probably get two each of A. Geniculata slings, L. Parahybana juveniles, and either B. Boehmei or M. Robustum. All except M. Robustum were mentioned at least a couple times as potential starter T's, is there anything about M. Robustum that's particularly difficult? I'm not concerned about burrowing, speed, or leg barbs as I don't intend to handle them. I found 1" M. Robustum's ($20) and 1/3" B. Boehmei's ($35) for sale so I'm kind of leaning towards the M. Robustum's due to cost and, I hope, 1" specimens being juveniles and not slings.

Thanks for any input :)
 

chanda

Arachnoking
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Jun 27, 2010
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I'm not sure where the cutoff is when a sling becomes a juvie, but personally, I prefer to get slings that are at least 3/4" - 1" DLS just because the older/larger they are, the easier they are to find suitable food for and the greater the likelihood of them surviving to adulthood. A tarantula egg sac can contain hundreds of babies, but not all of them are going to survive to adulthood, even under the best of care. As the slings grow and get a couple of molts under their belts, the weaker ones will die off and their stronger siblings will survive - so getting a larger sling means there's a better chance that you've got one of the stronger ones. Also, smaller slings are more sensitive to dehydration so you have to be more vigilant about maintaining the correct humidity - without letting the enclosure get too stuffy or wet. As they get older and can be moved to a larger enclosure, you'll have more room for a water dish that won't dry out overnight. (Bottle caps make great water dishes - but because they are so small, they dry out quickly - particularly if your spider dumps a bit of substrate in them or lays down a few strands of webbing to wick away the water.)

As far as fast or slow growing are concerned, it's just a matter of having the patience to wait for your sling to grow. Some people want a big, showy spider right away - so if they get a slow-growing species that might take several years to attain that size, they can end up bored or dissatisfied with it. Others enjoy the changing colors and patterns of the various stages of development and are in no hurry for their spiders to grow up. It really has a lot to do with what you want out of a tarantula. If you are looking for something big to show off or wanting something you can breed, you're better off buying either a larger spider or a fast growing species.

I don't really know anything about M. robustum, but the other spiders that you've identified all sound like good choices. I've had L. parahybana and A. geniculata, and they're great. Both are fast-growing species with voracious appetites and aggressive feeding habits. (The genics are among my favorite tarantulas.) Since you don't plan on handling them, you should do fine. I've never raised B. boehmei, but I do have other Brachypelma (B. albopilosum and B. hamorii) and I really like both of them. I purchased the B. hamorii as an adult, but I raised the B. albopilosum from a sling. I don't know exactly what size she was when she was given to me, but probably somewhere between 1/2" and 3/4". She was my very first tarantula and grew up surprisingly quickly.
 
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Tim Benzedrine

Prankster Possum
Old Timer
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Apr 4, 2004
Messages
1,505
Raosing spiders from s'lings can be rewarding. You can get a feeling of accomplishment from watching them develop from often nondescript small spiders to large colourful ones. And in my case and I am sure a lot of other keeper's cases, documenting the development by way of moult comparisons from the beginning to the latest and taking pictures of the spiders when they were small and doing side by side comparisons with future photos can be entertaining as well. I did eventually fall out of the moult comparison projects because after you have a lot of moults it can get a bit cumbersome, in my opinion.
A. genics and LPs are great spiders and not too advanced. As was intimated in the post above, they aren't good for handling, but really. most of us here recommend against handling of any species. But those two are very likely to chomp you as food, and when they get some size to them that would not be a pleasant experience.

Oh, and the two species have a reputation of being prone to kick hairs, so you should try to avoid having them kicked on you, or getting exposed to them during maintenance for that matter. Most new worlds can and will do that, but those two are a bit infamous for it.
 

Jones0911

Arachnobaron
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
406
Hi guys, new member here. As a kid I always caught spiders, mantids, all kinds of invertebrates and had a G. rosea for five or six years. Lately I thought it might be fun to get another tarantula and this forum convinced me I actually want dozens but maybe I'll start with just a few lol.

So I've done a little poking around on the forum and elsewhere and a few themes seem to come up a lot in the 'T's for beginners' discussions that I don't really get. Fast or slow growth is mentioned a lot; is this just because people equate slow with boring, or do fast and slow growers require different care (other than frequency of feeding)?

What's the distinction between a sling and a juvenile? I'd like to get small T's and watch them develop (plus less $) but not if my inexperience is going to put them at unreasonable risk. Is there a particular size for the species I'm interested in (below) where they're a 'juvenile' and no longer a sling?

I've identified several terrestrial NW species that I like and found reputable dealers with slings/juveniles for sale. Will probably get two each of A. Geniculata slings, L. Parahybana juveniles, and either B. Boehmei or M. Robustum. All except M. Robustum were mentioned at least a couple times as potential starter T's, is there anything about M. Robustum that's particularly difficult? I'm not concerned about burrowing, speed, or leg barbs as I don't intend to handle them. I found 1" M. Robustum's ($20) and 1/3" B. Boehmei's ($35) for sale so I'm kind of leaning towards the M. Robustum's due to cost and, I hope, 1" specimens being juveniles and not slings.

Thanks for any input :)
Yes people focus a lot on growth speed because some slow growers are boring but many focus on growth speed because a lot of the slow growers are gorgeous as adults. The down side to adults that are slower growers is they cost a lot because of how long it takes to reach that beauty even the males.

Don't get me wrong, many slow growers are worth the weight/sling price.

In my opinion that difference between a juvenile and a sling would be once they gain some color. Most slings especially Versicolor are very fragile in the sling stage. If I were you from the Ts you listed I'd get all of those except the M/R....I've heard those are hard to keep alive even in the juvenile stage but someone else will chime in to agree or correct me on that.

The L Parahybana & the A Geniculata will both grow fast they are garbage disposals. Also they're beautiful display Ts that rarely hide.

The B. Boehmei, I don't know too much about except for its in a Tarantula genus not known for its growth speed but I think this genus is very hardy sling wise.
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
Staff member
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Messages
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Fast or slow growth is mentioned a lot; is this just because people equate slow with boring, or do fast and slow growers require different care (other than frequency of feeding)?
Faster growth is considered good inasmuch as people are impatient to see adult coloring (if not a large tarantula). Slings are also a little more fragile than their juvenile or adult counterparts, so the sooner they grow out of that stage, the better.

Care does not depend on growth speed, just which species it is and how mature the tarantula is. (However, arid New World species -- the ones often recommended as first tarantulas -- tend to be slow growers.)


What's the distinction between a sling and a juvenile? I'd like to get small T's and watch them develop (plus less $) but not if my inexperience is going to put them at unreasonable risk. Is there a particular size for the species I'm interested in (below) where they're a 'juvenile' and no longer a sling?
There seems to be a general consensus on when to stop calling your tarantula a sling, but where it gets muddy is when to call a tarantula juvenile vs. sub-adult. These labels are largely subjective except that they all denote a sexually immature tarantula.

This is how I define the terms:
  • sling: a baby tarantula that does not yet have adult coloring (generally requires damp or moist substrate, even for arid species; will often burrow)
  • juvenile: a tarantula that has adult coloring but is less than 75% grown
  • sub-adult: an immature tarantula that is about 75% grown
  • adult/mature: a sexually mature specimen, even if it has not yet achieved maximum size

Such subjective labels are fine for casual conversation, but in my records, I skip the labels (sling/juvenile/sub-adult) and just put the size and sex (if known).
 
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boina

Lady of the mites
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Mar 25, 2015
Messages
2,214
If you get a L. parahybana make sure not to get a 2. instar - they are absolutely tiny. Their extremely small size makes them more difficult to take care off in my opinion. Other than that IME slings don't have a tendency to die off unexpectedly. Of the more than 200 slings I've raised only 2 just went and died - all the rest made it just fine. I don't find basic sling care to be difficult if you pay a little attention to them.

I just want to add a few things about M. robustum. They are absolutely beautiful but mine is my most disappointing taratula ever. She's burrowed and I don't ever see her, not even just feet. It makes feeding rather difficult because I'm never really sure if she's taking the prey or just collects the carcasses inside her burrow, if she's in premolt or maybe just molted etc. They also depend more on moisture than the other species you mentioned and are very sensitive to droughts (NEVER let their enclosure dry out, especially as slings/juvies). Also make sure you don't overwater - a swamp isn't good for them, either. I actually think they are a level above a beginner tarantula when it comes to difficulty in care, but not impossible to manage.
 

mack1855

Arachnoangel
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Sep 5, 2016
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829
As boina stated,M.robustum are awesome looking T,s.When you sneak up on them at midnight,on tiptoes,with no vibrations,and a red flashlight.
I love the whole genus,Megaphobema,but traded my two robustums away for other T,s.Even I need to see them once in blue moon.
 

Swoop

Arachnosquire
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
94
Appreciate all the help :) Is "sling" short for "spiderling"?

How volatile is pricing/availability in the tarantula market? I wanted L. Parahybana because BIG! (in like 20 years...) but the consensus on the forum seems to be that they 'can' get huge but typically don't. So, I switched to pining after a T. Stirmi. Can't find many in stock from reputable dealers though and the smallest/cheapest seem to be around 4" and $75. Do smaller specimens pop up frequently or is that basically the ante if I want a Stirmi?

What I'm thinking now, subject to change, is the A. Geniculata slings, then B. Boehmei slings, then one each juvenile T. Stirmi and M. Robustum. Going to space them out a little, make sure I can keep the hardier ones alive as slings for a few months before I shell out for the Stirmi and Robustum (odd name for a supposedly more delicate spider). Seems like Stirmi's are much more humidity dependent too so that's going to be a little more challenging.

Seems like most people prefer females because they get bigger and live longer. Are there any advantages to keeping males for people that don't plan on breeding them?
 

Trenor

Arachnoprince
Joined
Jan 28, 2016
Messages
1,893
Appreciate all the help :) Is "sling" short for "spiderling"?

How volatile is pricing/availability in the tarantula market? I wanted L. Parahybana because BIG! (in like 20 years...) but the consensus on the forum seems to be that they 'can' get huge but typically don't. So, I switched to pining after a T. Stirmi. Can't find many in stock from reputable dealers though and the smallest/cheapest seem to be around 4" and $75. Do smaller specimens pop up frequently or is that basically the ante if I want a Stirmi?

What I'm thinking now, subject to change, is the A. Geniculata slings, then B. Boehmei slings, then one each juvenile T. Stirmi and M. Robustum. Going to space them out a little, make sure I can keep the hardier ones alive as slings for a few months before I shell out for the Stirmi and Robustum (odd name for a supposedly more delicate spider). Seems like Stirmi's are much more humidity dependent too so that's going to be a little more challenging.

Seems like most people prefer females because they get bigger and live longer. Are there any advantages to keeping males for people that don't plan on breeding them?
Pricing can vary depending on who many are currently on the market and who is selling them. I've got great deals shopping around seeing whats for sale. If you have to "have it like right now... no really right now" then you are more likely to pay more just like with everything else.

Size has never been a big thing when I make my T considerations but a lot of people love the big Ts like Stirmi. I've never kept one so I can help you with care experience.

Good luck.
 

Olan

Arachnoangel
Old Timer
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Dec 23, 2002
Messages
862
No one has made the case for a Pamphobeteus, so I'll do the job of "token pampho guy". They are easier to keep than Theraphosa, and while they don't get quite as big as a stirmi, are really big and impressive.
Just so you have all the info.:D
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
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Messages
4,100
Is "sling" short for "spiderling"?
Yes.


Seems like most people prefer females because they get bigger and live longer. Are there any advantages to keeping males for people that don't plan on breeding them?
A male matures more quickly than a female, so if you want to experience the entire life cycle more quickly, that could be a good option. Moreover, since males have a shorter lifespan, you are not making as long of a commitment as you would be if you bought a female that could live for 20-30 years.

When a male does reach maturity, you can sell or trade him for another spider if you want.

@cold blood posted this in response to a teacher who was looking for a pet tarantula for his classroom:

Don't be concerned with a female, I would argue that a male is just as good, if not better for a classroom situation. A male will grow and possibly mature while the same kids are there, allowing them to see an entire process. If its a female, the kids would need to come back while in college to see the end product...plus, an MM is a learning experience unto its self. I would search out an unsexed juvie as it will be about 1/4th the price of a sexed female.
 
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Swoop

Arachnosquire
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Sep 17, 2017
Messages
94
No one has made the case for a Pamphobeteus, so I'll do the job of "token pampho guy". They are easier to keep than Theraphosa, and while they don't get quite as big as a stirmi, are really big and impressive.
Just so you have all the info.:D
Come on man, I already have four on the list and then you make me go and look that one up :D Good suggestion though, I guess since we're talking spiders with lifespans measured in decades I could hold off a little on the Stirmi, and that Pampho is a gooooooood looking arachnid.

When a male does reach maturity, you can trade or sell him for another spider if you want.
That's what I was thinking. I don't intend to breed T's so I think most males I get will end up in a classroom or with a breeder. I knew they had significantly shorter lifespans but didn't realize they also matured faster.



Just ordered my first slings, due to a freebie and a typo I ended up with 3 B. boehmei's, 2 A geniculata and an N. coloratovillosus on the way. Maybe I'm a little over-enthusiastic starting with six but I think I have a passable idea of how to do it from reading the forum now. Damp substrate and a water dish with just water, feed often (I'll use pre-killed food, no worries with prey eating them during molt that way), room temp, a means of hiding/burrowing... Anything critical I'm leaving out? Except for dampness and feeding often it doesn't seem like slings are all that much different to care for.
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
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Just ordered my first slings, due to a freebie and a typo I ended up with 3 B. boehmei's, 2 A geniculata and an N. coloratovillosus on the way. Maybe I'm a little over-enthusiastic starting with six but I think I have a passable idea of how to do it from reading the forum now. Damp substrate and a water dish with just water, feed often (I'll use pre-killed food, no worries with prey eating them during molt that way), room temp, a means of hiding/burrowing... Anything critical I'm leaving out?
That's pretty much it. Make sure the substrate is only slightly moist and not soaking wet.

Be careful with the ventilation holes. Slings can squeeze through surprisingly small spaces, so no hole should be bigger than the spider's carapace.

With Acanthoscurria geniculata, you'll want to get in the habit of using tongs for maintenance, as they think everything is food. (I think the same goes for Nhandu, but I have not kept them.)


Except for dampness and feeding often it doesn't seem like slings are all that much different to care for.
While it doesn't necessarily affect your care regimen, slings will often burrow even if they belong to species whose adults don't burrow.
 

Swoop

Arachnosquire
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
94
Thanks for the tip on the holes. The slings are all listed as 1/4-1/2", I was going to use large sturdy pill bottles while they're teeny and drill holes in them but even my smallest drill bit might be too large. I've got some pretty fine mesh bags I could cut into strips and cover the holes with, add some flair. They were originally wedding decorations so they're kind of flashy. Could clean and cut up a couple of spent shotgun shells and those would be a good size for hides too.

It's going to be a weird-looking nursery but I think it'll work :)
 

Venomgland

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Jul 23, 2017
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148
A 1" sling will be fairly east to care for. They will take down a small crickets with ease and you will get to watch them grow!
 

JoshDM020

Arachnobaron
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Mar 24, 2017
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356
even my smallest drill bit might be too large
1/16 inch bits work fine for (most) slings that size. I bought my A. geniculata at 1/4 inch and she couldnt escape through the holes. Rule of thumb is "hole smaller than carapace (head section)"
A picture of mine when i first got it. 4 months later and its pushing 2 inches
 

Swoop

Arachnosquire
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Sep 17, 2017
Messages
94
My new babies are here! Half of them, anyway. My N. coloratovillosus freebie and two A. geniculata showed up this morning. Three B. boehmei's are on the way but I don't have a tracking number :(

All three are in donated pill bottles. Poked some holes around the top with a tack, added a straw flush with the lid so I can wet the substrate without giving anyone a 'burrow bath', plastic bottle cap water dish and a piece of a spent shotgun shell for a hide. Pretty easy and fun to put together.

The N. coloratovillosus was not shy at all. He's in the orange one, about 1/4". The orange bottle worked great, label came off easy, easy to poke holes, easy to see my T. He darted under the hide for a good minute at first but has been out and about since then, chilled on the wall for a couple hours, checked out the burrows I poked for him and now he's chilling on the substrate by his water dish so I will assume he's happy.

The A. geniculata's were pretty shy. I put them in the red bottles which were more of a hassle than the orange one. Labels were on there pretty good, I soaked them in rubbing alcohol and scraped off most of it but there's still a lot of gunk and they're very dark so it's hard to see the T's. They cracked when I poked holes in them too but not so badly that I can't use them. Anyway, I rinsed them out real good, dried them and let them sit for a couple hours so any alcohol left would evaporate and set them up the same way. I'd say they're both at or a hair over 1/2", they're not real active but they're not hiding, huddling or trying to get off the substrate so I think they're satisfied with the new digs.


Colorato.jpg Geni1.jpg Geni2.jpg
 
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