I read through the article and the 25cmx10cmx35cm (9.84x3.93x13.78 in inches) seems relatively close to their measurements. I do agree on the glass part. For this style of tank, aside from the ventilation on the front at the bottom and the top being fully ventilated, are there any other points that should be ventilated? I’d like to build my own, however I’d prefer building them according to the specifics of your design.
Hi Volker, if I understand your comments correctly, you can still soak the enclosure even with females that are carrying eggs? I mean literally submerging the spiders and eggs?
A tutorial on building these to spec would be amazing. Maybe a big request though.
No, under no circumstances should you water the haplotanks when the females have cocoons. Watering only simulates the rainy season, which is also the time when the males run around looking for females, i.e. the mating season. The cocoon building is only hormonally stimulated by the drying of the substrate and by the warmer temperatures.
Here on our WEBSITE you can download the article describing how the haplotanks are built and how they work.A tutorial on building these to spec would be amazing. Maybe a big request though.
It's funny that so many of the species classed as Haplopelma when you created the 'haplotank' have since been reclassified. Maybe we call them 'cyriotanks' now
You could use a 20 long to house your spider. But it wouldn’t be functionally the same at all.
Was curious about this, but never asked. Haplotank has a better ring to it anyways IMHO, kinda like huwentoxins sound better than schmidtoxinsDue to the fact that I do not accept the synonymization of Haplopelma with Cyriopagopus, because it was done very unscientifically and with not useful taxonomic features, I still use the term "Haplotank".
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I mean if you flip the tank to be vertically oriented and then put a piece of glass to cover most of the opening and cover the rest with a door. Finally replace the the top piece of glass with a metal grate for ventilation like the op said. If that makes sense?
Yes. One of the main advantages of this design is the ability to non-invasively check on a fossorial tarantula in their burrow. In much the same way an ant farm works, the narrowness of the enclosure forces the tarantula to make a burrow with windows. With a 20g long inverted, the tarantula would be able to burrow in the middle and you'll never see it unless it's on the surface or chooses to burrow against the enclosure wall.
Yes I'd assume so. Just wanted to make sure. Thank you!
My C lividus doesn’t want to settle into her haplotank lol
Dang that's a big spider if you've got ten inches of sub.
As you may have noticed my version of the haplotank is a plastic cereal container. About the top not drying out as much as it should, I'm planning on remedying it by cutting a big piece of the lid and replacing the removed piece with mesh to hopefully better the situation about top parts of the substrate not drying out. Or is this something that you have tried before already and has failed?
My big female from years ago lived like a terrestrial for 2 years and even molted a couple of times before actually settling and burrowing. I've heard similar experiences from lots of other keepers, not sure why.
Mine have done the same thing and I started using a black cardboard backing attached by Velcro and they eventually dug down within a month. I do it with all my Asian fossorial spiders now. See them a lot more of them as well. I started doing this right at a year ago and am pleased with how it helps. Totally different enclosure and stuff I know just something I experimented with that for me actually worked.