Shell Rot 101

invertinverts

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 22, 2024
Messages
16
I figured this would be a good place to put my shell rot post, I hope it can help some crayfish owners out there who live in places with low KH!


Shell rot, box burnt disease, brown spot, black spot, burn spot, and rust disease are all names for fungal or bacterial infection in the outer shell or exocuticle of a crayfish. These lesions look like brown or rust colored spots or patches on your crayfish. Shell rot is not common in wild crayfish populations, but it is incredibly common in captivity and many cray owners will experience it at least once.

How does shell rot work?
Shell rot is caused by bacteria or fungi taking advantage of the breached or weakened shell of the crayfish. Typically the rot kills them by complicating molting/failure to molt, or the gills rot causing respiratory failure. There are three layers of unhardened shell under the exocuticle of the crayfish and once the rot has passed all three layers it's very unlikely the cray could survive. Shell rot IS contagious to other crustaceans so if you notice any shell rot and have multiple crays together, separate them immediately.


KH (carbonate hardness): Getting the KH at a safe level is one of the most important things to help your crayfish overcome shell rot and allow them to molt and harden up correctly. If the KH is too low, the cray's shell may not harden correctly and a soft shell is the perfect habitat for these fungi and bacteria to thrive in. If the KH is too high the cray's shell may be too hard for them to break out of and they may die attempting to molt. For crayfish you'll want the KH in the tank to be in between 6-15 but this is different for every crayfish. Please look up the species of cray you have to determine the correct KH!!!!

How do I raise the KH??
Adding crushed coral, eggshells (prepared properly), cuttlebone, shrimp salts, and wonder shells can all raise the KH in your aquarium. In my experience, wonder shells raised the GH (general hardness) rapidly and didn’t raise the KH and I didn’t have any success changing any parameters with eggshells. I have not tried cuttlebone but have heard of people having success with them. I had success with crushed coral, but you have to test often and not do too many water changes which can potentially cause a spike in ammonia. The KH will rise slowly over time and when you replace some of the water it quickly drops. I personally had the most success with shrimp salts, the brand I use is called Salty Shrimp/Shrimp Mineral. It is very important that you dose whatever you use correctly!!! Continue to test the water regularly to make sure the KH doesn't rise or drop too rapidly.

But my crayfish already has shell rot... What can I do to help it?
When my cray got shell rot I did salt baths every day for about a month and he did recover. This is what I did if you're curious, but it took over a month of doing this every day and his shell rot wasn't on his main body.

8tbs aquarium salt boiled in 1.5 cups of dechlorinated water
Mix the salt water with 3 cups aquarium water

I built up over time from 1 min to 10 min dip. You have to watch very closely because the salt water can kill them so if the cray starts looking grey or falling over put him back in the tank asap. The idea with the salt bath is to let the salt kill the bacteria before it kills the animal which can be a fine line.

What causes shell rot?
- Poor water quality: Water quality is by far the most common cause of shell rot. Build up of ammonia makes crays more susceptible to shell rot, but more importantly you'll need to keep an eye on your KH levels.

-Overcrowding: Overcrowding can lead to unnaturally large bacterial populations, and with more animals in the tank the risk of scratches in the exocuticle is heightened. Just a small scratch or nick can be enough for the bacteria or fungi to root in and start eating your animal.

-Stress: Stress makes crayfish more susceptible to shell rot.

-High TDS (total dissolved solids): Total dissolved solids represents the concentration of dissolved substances in a liquid. There are several studies showing that total dissolved solids being too high can make crayfish susceptible to shell rot.

Test your water! It is vital that you test your aquarium water frequently. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, PH, GH, KH, and TDS can be easily tested at home using a liquid test kit. I use the API freshwater master test kit and a total dissolved solids meter can be ordered on amazon.



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Jimbob

Arachnosquire
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
109
Interesting post! I don’t currently keep crayfish (would like to eventually), but I do have a land crab cardisoma guanhumi.

I noticed some suspect shell rot spots on him when I got him which had/have me worried, but I read that it’s common and nearly impossible to avoid altogether. From my understanding they molt out of it before it can eat through. That’s where I worry though as I’ve had my guy for 8 months now and he still hasn’t molted. He’s big so probably a good bit of time between molts. I would think the cycled saltwater and freshwater pools would help manage it. He does live in a bioactive viv with tons of springtails, isopods, plants, etc. this would all be similar to their natural habitat, but technically also loaded with bacteria as that’s what bio activity is pretty much.

Otherwise acting normal and healthy. I don’t know of a way to reasonably pull out and bath a large burrowing species like this as it’d be very stressful(for both of us lol). I feel it’d possibly make matters worse than just providing what he needs to hopefully molt and move on from it?
 

invertinverts

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 22, 2024
Messages
16
I noticed some suspect shell rot spots on him when I got him which had/have me worried, but I read that it’s common and nearly impossible to avoid altogether. From my understanding they molt out of it before it can eat through. That’s where I worry though as I’ve had my guy for 8 months now and he still hasn’t molted. He’s big so probably a good bit of time between molts. I would think the cycled saltwater and freshwater pools would help manage it. He does live in a bioactive viv with tons of springtails, isopods, plants, etc. this would all be similar to their natural habitat, but technically also loaded with bacteria as that’s what bio activity is pretty much.

Otherwise acting normal and healthy. I don’t know of a way to reasonably pull out and bath a large burrowing species like this as it’d be very stressful(for both of us lol). I feel it’d possibly make matters worse than just providing what he needs to hopefully molt and move on from it?
To be honest, I don't know much about that species or land crabs in general though I have heard of people doing scrubs or baths for them. You'd have to look towards someone who keeps land crabs lol. I do know that the bigger they are the longer it takes to molt and too much calcium will make the shell too hard to exit, as too little will make the new shell too weak. Too little calcium can also cause mishapen claws and other body parts which can cause the next molt or so to be difficult. As long as the rot doesn't get through all the exoskeleton layers they will be able to molt out and I think this is common. It sounds like a cool setup, would love to see pictures!
 

Jimbob

Arachnosquire
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
109
Thanks for the response! Didn’t mean to hijack your thread or anything, just figured it was a little in line with my land crab. The calcium thing is something I’m always unsure of. I offer calcium in egg shells, cuttlebone, and powder. There’s also some in saltwater mixes. I don’t see him touch the cuttlebone or egg shells much (he is a secretive eater though). So I’m always torn on whether I should powder his foods or not. On one hand I’m like maybe he doesn’t always recognize the calcium sources I offer, but then on the other hand, powdering his foods could overdo it. Not sure how good they are at knowing what they need nutritionally and detecting it in their environment. Sorry I’m just kind of rambling about my thoughts lol 😅.

At the end of this thread I have some more recent pictures. Now there’s even a bit more plants/growth. https://arachnoboards.com/threads/setting-up-for-cardisoma-guanhumi.369529/#post-3446581
 

invertinverts

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 22, 2024
Messages
16
Thanks for the response! Didn’t mean to hijack your thread or anything, just figured it was a little in line with my land crab. The calcium thing is something I’m always unsure of. I offer calcium in egg shells, cuttlebone, and powder. There’s also some in saltwater mixes. I don’t see him touch the cuttlebone or egg shells much (he is a secretive eater though). So I’m always torn on whether I should powder his foods or not. On one hand I’m like maybe he doesn’t always recognize the calcium sources I offer, but then on the other hand, powdering his foods could overdo it. Not sure how good they are at knowing what they need nutritionally and detecting it in their environment. Sorry I’m just kind of rambling about my thoughts lol 😅.

At the end of this thread I have some more recent pictures. Now there’s even a bit more plants/growth. https://arachnoboards.com/threads/setting-up-for-cardisoma-guanhumi.369529/#post-3446581
No worries lol! For my critters that need their food dusted, I dust about every other feeding and try to offer them the same supplements as best I can outside of the powder. For example providing uvb light to forgo vitamin D powder which can be overdosed where uvb can't really. I also like to feed my crayfish lots of shrimp and foods that are naturally high in calcium so I know they are getting some of that nutrition straight from the food. I also feed different kinds of fish and veggies which I assume helps. That's a cool looking tank, and I love the large separated water areas!
 

The Snark

Dumpster Fire of the Gods
Old Timer
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
11,550
As stated, environment maintenance is crucial. Exoskeletal animals are unable to develop natural immunities. With all intensive or close quarters proximity the natural protection mechanism of distancing is defeated. Transmission and re-transmission becomes a vicious circle. If it gets of control mass die offs can quickly occur.
I learned this the hard way working at a fish farm. From almost ready for market to 50,000 dead trout in 36 hours. A little lecture from a prof clued me. We killed the fish. Environment not rigidly and scrupulously maintained.
 

invertinverts

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 22, 2024
Messages
16
As stated, environment maintenance is crucial. Exoskeletal animals are unable to develop natural immunities. With all intensive or close quarters proximity the natural protection mechanism of distancing is defeated. Transmission and re-transmission becomes a vicious circle. If it gets of control mass die offs can quickly occur.
I learned this the hard way working at a fish farm. From almost ready for market to 50,000 dead trout in 36 hours. A little lecture from a prof clued me. We killed the fish. Environment not rigidly and scrupulously maintained.
Interestingly, most of the studies on crayfish I read were about mass farming because they had a lot of issues initially maintaining large captive populations when they first started in the 80s. Stress can be a huge factor and it's crazy how quickly a whole group can be taken out. Thanks for the insight!
 
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