Questions before i buy "The Big One" (sp. Theraphosa)

[Methal]

Right to the point.

I'm thinking of making that leap from my desert type "low maintenance" tarantula into a more "higher maintenance" breed of tarantula.

I have heard that T. Stirmi/blondi is for the "more advanced keeper."

I would like to know how to best prepare for this sp. of Tarantula.
Typically I keep my T's on straight coco-fiber, and use something like a cut ceramic pot for a burrow/hide.

Generally I try to follow the advice of this forum, and what I find on www.mikebasictarantula.com

I guess my question is. Where do I start? what should I know before buying my first? etc.

Thanks ladies and gents =D

 

[petkokc]

Cross ventilation in enclosure is the key to prevent mold because they need high humidity.

On a side note, there is no such thing as tarantula breeds:

" Breed: Animals that, through selection and breeding, have come to resemble one another and pass those traits uniformly to their offspring.

Specie: groups of actually or potentially interbreeding organisms that are reproductively isolated from other such groups. In other words, organisms are considered to belong to the same species if they can potentially reproduce with each other and have offspring that are healthy and fertile. Otherwise, they are considered to belong to different species. "

 

[Flexzone]

Depends on your past level of experience with T's. Assuming your getting a WC sub-adult/adult or CB sling-juvi your most likely getting a T. stirmi as blondi's are very rare, expensive and hard to come by in the states, T. stirmi are easier to keep in captivity imo as they are more versatile and less dependent on high humidity then blondi, I give sub-adult/adult a large water-dish and keep them on moist substrate(I prefer coco fiber with a bit of sphagnum moss to retain humidity longterm) with moderate cross ventilation(very important as you don't want mold developing or possibly an explosion in parasitic mite population), and a hide pushed down into the substrate so they have a nice dark deep burrow. Remember that these sp. are voracious eaters and will require a large weekly quantity of invertebrate's to sustain there large size(frame). Be aware that they have some of the worst urticating hair's you can imagine so wearing anything that covers your exposed skin and mucous membrane's when dealing with cage maintenance are a necessity, Lastly scrap "care sheets" there pretty much a how to kill your T sheet. side note(tarantula's don't go by breed's as they aren't domesticated and altered by man instead go by diffrent species)

 

[Methal]

Depends on your past level of experience with T's. Assuming your getting a sub-adult/adult your most likely getting a T. stirmi as blondi's are very rare and hard to come by in the states, T. stirmi are easier to keep in captivity imo as they are slightly less dependent on high humidity, I give them a large water-dish and keep them on moist substrate(I prefer coco fiber with a bit of sphagnum moss to retain humidity) with moderate cross ventilation(very important as you don't want mold developing or possibly an explosion in parasitic mite population), and a hide pushed down into the substrate so they have a nice dark deep burrow. Remember that these sp. are voracious eaters and will require a large weekly quantity of invertebrate's to sustain there large size(frame). Be aware that they have some of the worst urticating hair's you can imagine so wearing anything that covers your exposed skin and mucosa membrane's when dealing with cage maintenance are ideal, Lastly scrap "care sheets" there pretty much a how to kill your T sheet.

I've been keeping Ts for about 2 years now. I have 22 in my collection. I just traded my A. Avic for another OBT, so I only have 1 that is a "sub tropic" type (6 in. L. Parahybana)

I read the care sheets just for information, and take everything with a grain of salt. I read what climate they come from and try best to mimic that. Though I do understand that everyone will say something different, and just because a T is alive doesnt mean that its happy/healthy.
Which is why if I have any major concerns or conflicting info, I tend to ask/look here. I prefer the advice of a you mature, experienced keepers.

Also I do not see my Tarantulas as Pets. Pets get names, come when you call them, and dont fang your hand when you pet them.
My Tarantulas are moving living breathing little bits of life, that I keep to study, watch, preserve, and enjoy. They are not show pieces, they are not experiments, and never get handled.

anyway, aside from how high up the leg they grow hair, what other differences are there between the T. Blondi and Stirmi?

 

[Flexzone]

I've been keeping Ts for about 2 years now. I have 22 in my collection. I just traded my A. Avic for another OBT, so I only have 1 that is a "sub tropic" type (6 in. L. Parahybana)

I read the care sheets just for information, and take everything with a grain of salt. I read what climate they come from and try best to mimic that. Though I do understand that everyone will say something different, and just because a T is alive doesnt mean that its happy/healthy.
Which is why if I have any major concerns or conflicting info, I tend to ask/look here. I prefer the advice of a you mature, experienced keepers.

Also I do not see my Tarantulas as Pets. Pets get names, come when you call them, and dont fang your hand when you pet them.
My Tarantulas are moving living breathing little bits of life, that I keep to study, watch, preserve, and enjoy. They are not show pieces, they are not experiments, and never get handled.

anyway, aside from how high up the leg they grow hair, what other differences are there between the T. Blondi and Stirmi?

As slings/young juvi's Theraphosa stirmi have light pink to white hue on the metatarsi & tarsi on leg pairs I & II whereas blondi's lack the light coloration on their legs. I included a pic at the bottom of a side by side of T. stirmi and blondi and the other subtle differences between the two sp. Hope it helps. Picture diagram credit: Peter Roach(BTS forum)

 

[Poec54]

Almost all Theraphosa in the US are stirmi. In the late 1990's w/c blondi were coming in but people couldn't keep them going (so our supply of CBB blondi slings comes from Europe). Blondi is more delicate, prone to molting problems, difficult to get good sacs from, and no larger than stirmi. Why bother with blondi? It looks almost identical to stirmi.

I've gotten some w/c stirmi juveniles/subadults/adults. They're not hard to keep happy and healthy. I selected them from a local reptile dealer and deliberately picked the thinnest ones, so I could see they made it (the rest were going to pet stores). Priority #1: get their weight up. They're ferocious eaters. Keep a full, clean water bowl available at all times. No spider fouls a water bowl like Theraphosa, and you're strongly advised to use disposable ones (I use 3 oz soufflé cups, bought by the sleeve), as you will find some of the most vile, putrid things in them.

Keep the substrate moist, but not soggy. There's a myth circulating that they're 'swamp dwellers', unfortunately also propagated by the TKG. Some trusting souls take this literally and go to great lengths to duplicate swamp-like conditions. All that Theraphosa need are conditions like Asian terrestrials: moist substrate and moderate cross ventilation. Do that & mites and mold aren't an issue. The sides shouldn't be too tall, as they'll fall off the sides and injure themselves, sometimes fatally. I keep mine at temps of 70 to 85. Days are best in the mid 70's to mid 80's, with nights a few degrees cooler. I'd never go below mid 60's as a winter nighttime low, nor keep them at 70 year round. They're tropical animals.

Fear the hairs. They don't itch, they burn, and it lasts a while. Don't let them get near your eyes (I wear glasses). It's best to wear long sleeves when working with them, especially cage transfers. Use masking tape wrapped around your fingers, to dab off any hairs on your skin, before you start scratching and rubbing. Best approach is to keep disruptions o a minimum so they don't start kicking in the first place. They intentionally lay hairs around their cage and on molting beds, so keep that in mind. You don't want to stir those hairs up and get them airborne. Shed skins also have hairs all over them, and cause a reaction in some people who handle them.

 

[cold blood]

Almost all Theraphosa in the US are stirmi. In the late 1990's w/c blondi were coming in but people couldn't keep them going (so our supply of CBB blondi slings comes from Europe). Blondi is more delicate, prone to molting problems, difficult to get good sacs from, and no larger than stirmi. Why bother with blondi? It looks almost identical to stirmi.

I've gotten some w/c stirmi juveniles/subadults/adults. They're not hard to keep happy and healthy. I selected them from a local reptile dealer and deliberately picked the thinnest ones, so I could see they made it (the rest were going to pet stores). Priority #1: get their weight up. They're ferocious eaters. Keep a full, clean water bowl available at all times. No spider fouls a water bowl like Theraphosa, and you're strongly advised to use disposable ones (I use 3 oz soufflé cups, bought by the sleeve), as you will find some of the most vile, putrid things in them.

Keep the substrate moist, but not soggy. There's a myth circulating that they're 'swamp dwellers', unfortunately also propagated by the TKG. Some trusting souls take this literally and go to great lengths to duplicate swamp-like conditions. All that Theraphosa need are conditions like Asian terrestrials: moist substrate and moderate cross ventilation. Do that & mites and mold aren't an issue. The sides shouldn't be too tall, as they'll fall off the sides and injure themselves, sometimes fatally. I keep mine at temps of 70 to 85. Days are best in the mid 70's to mid 80's, with nights a few degrees cooler. I'd never go below mid 60's as a winter nighttime low, nor keep them at 70 year round. They're tropical animals.

Fear the hairs. They don't itch, they burn, and it lasts a while. Don't let them get near your eyes (I wear glasses). It's best to wear long sleeves when working with them, especially cage transfers. Use masking tape wrapped around your fingers, to dab off any hairs on your skin, before you start scratching and rubbing. Best approach is to keep disruptions o a minimum so they don't start kicking in the first place. They intentionally lay hairs around their cage and on molting beds, so keep that in mind. You don't want to stir those hairs up and get them airborne. Shed skins also have hairs all over them, and cause a reaction in some people who handle them.

Based on this last paragraph, I would (and have) choose something like Pamph, Phormic or even Xenesthis instead. I don't see why I would want a t that I have to don body protection just to do basic maintenance with. Your choice though, good luck, poec gave you some quality info!

 

[Tfisher]

Almost all Theraphosa in the US are stirmi. In the late 1990's w/c blondi were coming in but people couldn't keep them going (so our supply of CBB blondi slings comes from Europe). Blondi is more delicate, prone to molting problems, difficult to get good sacs from, and no larger than stirmi. Why bother with blondi? It looks almost identical to stirmi.

I've gotten some w/c stirmi juveniles/subadults/adults. They're not hard to keep happy and healthy. I selected them from a local reptile dealer and deliberately picked the thinnest ones, so I could see they made it (the rest were going to pet stores). Priority #1: get their weight up. They're ferocious eaters. Keep a full, clean water bowl available at all times. No spider fouls a water bowl like Theraphosa, and you're strongly advised to use disposable ones (I use 3 oz soufflé cups, bought by the sleeve), as you will find some of the most vile, putrid things in them.

Keep the substrate moist, but not soggy. There's a myth circulating that they're 'swamp dwellers', unfortunately also propagated by the TKG. Some trusting souls take this literally and go to great lengths to duplicate swamp-like conditions. All that Theraphosa need are conditions like Asian terrestrials: moist substrate and moderate cross ventilation. Do that & mites and mold aren't an issue. The sides shouldn't be too tall, as they'll fall off the sides and injure themselves, sometimes fatally. I keep mine at temps of 70 to 85. Days are best in the mid 70's to mid 80's, with nights a few degrees cooler. I'd never go below mid 60's as a winter nighttime low, nor keep them at 70 year round. They're tropical animals.

Fear the hairs. They don't itch, they burn, and it lasts a while. Don't let them get near your eyes (I wear glasses). It's best to wear long sleeves when working with them, especially cage transfers. Use masking tape wrapped around your fingers, to dab off any hairs on your skin, before you start scratching and rubbing. Best approach is to keep disruptions o a minimum so they don't start kicking in the first place. They intentionally lay hairs around their cage and on molting beds, so keep that in mind. You don't want to stir those hairs up and get them airborne. Shed skins also have hairs all over them, and cause a reaction in some people who handle them.

I love this hobby. Still after 5 years of keeping I still learn new things. I know fourms ill be addressing when I grab my first Theraphosa.

 

[Poec54]

I love this hobby. Still after 5 years of keeping I still learn new things. I know fourms ill be addressing when I grab my first Theraphosa.

That's odd. You're consorting with a person known to be detrimental to the hobby and a chaser-away of members.

 

[Tfisher]

I see you as a knowledgeable member who has years of experience on me.. I still have a lot to learn. I took me a while to understand the way members feel about our hobby. Honestly when I got involved all I could see was bright blue, yellow and orange dollar signs. I've grown and also fallen in love with this hobby. When people present themselves and give good information those are the ones I would like to follow.

To be honest you and Joe both are very knowledgeable tho.

 

[Chris LXXIX]

That's odd. You're consorting with a person known to be detrimental to the hobby and a chaser-away of members.

Jesus Christ, Poec54. Don't be bothered by that. That's just the opinion of someone, and you know the average (and right) statements about opinions. Facts matters here, nothing else. And your "score" speaks alone, says it all, and the people you helped, last crone, with her 'Avic'.

Just like me not even two years here... and already hit in the "top ten" most positive ratings receiveds. Jok lol, i don't care except for T's, they are (one of) my passion, still learning, and if i can help someone, better.

 

[Poec54]

Ive come a long way from the way I used to act. I'm not a chaser-away..er. Forgive me for my past.

Just realized I may have read this wrong but... still.

You're forgiven. No big deal. Not asking you to pick sides either. Just saying your reputation may suffer consorting with shady characters like myself. I'd hate to see you snubbed in social circles around town, and have people whisper behind your back.

 

[Tfisher]

You're forgiven. No big deal. Not asking you to pick sides either. Just saying your reputation may suffer consorting with shady characters like myself. I'd hate to see you snubbed in social circles around town, and have people whisper behind your back.

Hahaha maybe so but life is worth taking chances.

 

[Poec54]

Jesus Christ, Poec54. Don't be bothered by that. That's just the opinion of someone, and you know the average (and right) statements about opinions. Facts matters here, nothing else. And your "score" speaks alone, says it all, and the people you helped, last crone, with her 'Avic'.

Oh god, believe me, I'm not bothered at all by that. Pretty funny actually, which is why I changed my signature line (did you notice?). I'll help him out and publicize the wild accusations myself. Shout them the rooftops!

 

[Crone Returns]

I see you as a knowledgeable member who has years of experience on me.. I still have a lot to learn. I took me a while to understand the way members feel about our hobby. Honestly when I got involved all I could see was bright blue, yellow and orange dollar signs. I've grown and also fallen in love with this hobby. When people present themselves and give good information those are the ones I would like to follow.

To be honest you and Joe both are very knowledgeable tho.

You're forgiven. No big deal. Not asking you to pick sides either. Just saying your reputation may suffer consorting with shady characters like myself. I'd hate to see you snubbed in social circles around town, and have people whisper behind your back.

Breathe Poec breathe.

 

[gypsy cola]

I seriously regret getting a T.stirmi. The only T I ever had buyers remorse for. I did plenty of research for months, had everything ready

These urticating bristles are on a completely different level. 3 weeks of suffering... I am surprised the CIA do not use things these for interrogation.

 

[Toxoderidae]

I forgot to breathe once. Then I got the zen egg, so now I just look at it and remember to breath once every 1 to 5 years.

 

[Poec54]

I seriously regret getting a T.stirmi. The only T I ever had buyers remorse for. I did plenty of research for months, had everything ready

These urticating bristles are on a completely different level. 3 weeks of suffering... I am surprised the CIA do not use things these for interrogation.

They did, but it was too inhumane and they went back to waterboarding.

 

[Toxoderidae]

They did, but it was too inhumane and they went back to waterboarding.

Using hairs from Theraphosa is considered a war crime, and goes against the Geneva Conventions.

 

[jiacovazzi]

That's odd. You're consorting with a person known to be detrimental to the hobby and a chaser-away of members.

He doesn't consort with you. This time you summoned me.