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Are they synonyms? It looks like some species that have formerly been listed as Phormingohillus are now Phormingochilus, but not all, so any info is appreciated - having a hard time finding anything.
Which species? Phormingochilus as a whole is my favorite genus. They are a bit more on the advanced side of the husbandry spectrum, being potentially flighty and defensive, potent, moisture dependent, arboreal OW's, so definently do that research. All and all, IME they're not too bad as long as you have them setup right and once you get a bit of experience with them and their behaviour. I just had to do an emergency rehouse of two 6" DLS P. sp Akcaya and one 7" DLS P. sp Sabah Blue last week (%@#*ing ants.....) and I didn't get a single bolt or threat posture. Here's one of the Akcaya's. Hard to believe she only molted like 3 weeks ago with that abdomen size lol.I'm not very familiar with the Phormingochilus genus, but I'm getting one next week, so I was researching. What was throwing me off is that the place I'm getting it from has a few listed as Phormingochilus sp., but also one Phormingohillus. I kind of thought that it might be a typo, but looking back at previous lists, there were others listed as Phormingohillus that had been changed to Phormingochilus on the most recent. Also saw similar stuff from multiple vendors... Thoroughly confused me. Thanks for the clarification!
That is an awesome creature...Which species? Phormingochilus as a whole is my favorite genus. They are a bit more on the advanced side of the husbandry spectrum, being potentially flighty and defensive, potent, moisture dependent, arboreal OW's, so definently do that research. All and all, IME they're not too bad as long as you have them setup right and once you get a bit of experience with them and their behaviour. I just had to do an emergency rehouse of two 6" DLS P. sp Akcaya and one 7" DLS P. sp Sabah Blue last week (%@#*ing ants.....) and I didn't get a single bolt or threat posture. Here's one of the Akcaya's. Hard to believe she only molted like 3 weeks ago with that abdomen size lol.
View attachment 414590
Yep, so standard Asian Arboreal care applies: Deep, moist substrate and some height as well. If this is your first time caring for a moisture dependent OW, it can be tricky to get it right the first couple of times. You'll have to dial in your enclosure's ventilation to your substrate's ability to hold moisture. You can read a bit about that here (specifically the On the Subject of Soil Moisture and On the Subject of Ventilation subsections):
https://arachnoboards.com/threads/the-paradoxical-importance-of-humidity.346451/post-3190549
Also, I've detailed how I keep my smaller (1"+ DLS) arboreal tarantulas, both moisture dependent and not, here:
https://arachnoboards.com/threads/l4nskys-methodology.343787/
Any other questions, feel free to DM me.
Thanks,
--Matt
Great info - appreciate the resources!Yep, so standard Asian Arboreal care applies: Deep, moist substrate and some height as well. If this is your first time caring for a moisture dependent OW, it can be tricky to get it right the first couple of times. You'll have to dial in your enclosure's ventilation to your substrate's ability to hold moisture. You can read a bit about that here (specifically the On the Subject of Soil Moisture and On the Subject of Ventilation subsections):
https://arachnoboards.com/threads/the-paradoxical-importance-of-humidity.346451/post-3190549
Also, I've detailed how I keep my smaller (1"+ DLS) arboreal tarantulas, both moisture dependent and not, here:
https://arachnoboards.com/threads/l4nskys-methodology.343787/
Any other questions, feel free to DM me.
Thanks,
--Matt
They can be reclusive, but I've found that you can see them more often if you have them setup with their security in mind. It's a wierd paradox where if you set them up so that you may never see them, then you have a higher chance of seeing them.beautiful animals, it is a shame they are so reclusive
I set up my 0.0.2 ~1.5" Phormingochilus arboricola last week:
View attachment 414619
unlike with arboreals i filled the bark up with substrate and just left a little starter burrow up top.
and the spider turned it into a perfectly round burrow within a few days, that goes all the way to the bottom:
View attachment 414620
now i am new to the genus myself but this schould be adequate for a few molts.
I'd recommend against tape (that's how slings lose legs). If the sling's carapace can fit out of the ventilation holes, then I'd use another enclosure for a molt or two until it gets some size.Here's my enclosure for the 1.25" DLS P. everetti sling I'll be getting Tuesday. It's 4"x4"x5", and I like it because of how clear it is and how securely the lid pops into place (you can definitely tell if you didn't get it on all the way). Re-purposed candy container. My only concern is whether or not I made the ventilation holes too large - depending on what I think after getting a look at the sling in person, those might get taped over and reduced in size until it molts a time or 2.
I packed in one layer of sub and wet it down pretty thoroughly, then set the cork bark and packed in another layer of sub that I didn't add any more water to other than what came out of the moss when I squished it down (it was soaked for about 45 minutes). I put a starter burrow in the corner behind the bark.
What do you think? Did I go overboard with the moss, or do I need to add more?
View attachment 414681 View attachment 414682 View attachment 414686 View attachment 414685 View attachment 414684 View attachment 414681 View attachment 414691
I keep my Psalmopoeus sp. in much the same way, but with slightly less substrate and slightly less moisture, but the basic construction is the same. Here's a pot for a 0.5" P. victori sling that's coming in the same shipment:
View attachment 414692
Anyway, let me know what you think. Thanks!
Alright, I need to break off on a little bit of a tangent here and discuss the subject of field capacity in relation to mycology. Now field capacity is technically defined as the water content of a soil after gravitational drainage over approximately a day. Basically how much water could the substrate hold in it’s unaltered, natural state. For growing mycelium, we’ve found that the ideal field capacity is roughly 60%. A quick dirty trick to get this right in mycology is to squeeze (and I mean SQUEEZE) a handful of substrate. If only one or two drops comes out of your clenched fist, this should be really close to 60%. If you’re ever in doubt, always err on the side of drier as well. It’s a lot harder to take moisture out then it is to add moisture to a substrate. Going forward, proper field capacity will be defined as squeezing the substrate hard and only having one or two drops come out of your clenched fist.
Back to the setup. For the bottom layer of substrate, you should use substrate that has proper field capacity. To achieve this, start out with a big bowl of dry substrate, distilled or R/O water, and a mixing implement. Add water and stir the substrate until all the water has been absorbed. Grab a handful and squeeze it hard. If more than 1 or two drops drips from your clenched fist of substrate, crumble the substrate in your hand back into the bowl, add a handful of dry substrate, thoroughly remix, and test again. If it’s still too wet, repeat until you get the desired results. If the substrate is too dry, you get no water droplets out of a clenched fist of substrate, or your hands aren’t damp after you squeeze the substrate, crumble the clenched fist of substrate in your hand back into the bowl, add a little bit of water, thoroughly remix, and test again. If it’s still to dry, repeat until you get the desired results. Once you have the substrate to a proper field capacity, add this to the enclosure as the bottom layer of substrate. Use your fist to ensure that this layer is well compacted. We want to do this to maintain and support future burrow construction and reduce the size of the air pockets in the soil to lessen evaporation to ensure the bottom layer retains moisture.
yea i was thinking the same thing,Vis a vis the actual decor, it looks a bit too damp IMO. The substrate looks a little bit too much on the moist side.
Lol I'm not the expert, just the most vocal . IMHO, it's a little bit of both, especially in comparison to a species that dwells in a more arid environment. The key thing to remember is that moisture dependent tarantulas are tarantulas that exclusively live in rainforests. They don't really conserve moisture (in comparison) and they're never far away from it, but they are able to get away from it as well. Hence, it's a balancing act in captivity.yea i was thinking the same thing,
the way i interpret moisture dependant and correct me if i am wrong here @l4nsky, you are the expert, is not that they need more moisture than others but that they need that moisture more consistently.
You can wet down half the substrate for Brachypelma species for example but let it dry out almost completly before watering again or could even keep them mostly dry. Not with these, they need that moist corner consistently. I am currently adding a few drops of water every 3-4 days but that is just to counter the evaporation and the substrate feels just slightly damp to the touch.
It may also mean that they can deal with much higher moisture levels for a short period of time but too much moisture can kill them just as quick as other spiders.