P.Regalis molting problem + some possible stupidity

[Legrasse]

Hey guys, I feel that I've exhausted most of the books I have on the hobby so I'm hoping that some of you can help me with this.

My juvie P.Regalis (HAL) has recently molted, but during the process it lost three of it's legs. A while back, when I first got HAL, I hollowed out a log. This was fine, but I think the T. got too big for his den, and subsequently couldn't escape from his discarded exo.
Now, I understand that these legs will regenerate with time, but what worries me is that the legs it's lost are three pretty vital ones, all on the front. Now when it tries to climb it has to use its fangs to help, and due to me being worried that the same space constraints would be the death of the spider on the next molt, I've moved it into a larger home (possibly a very stupid thing to do).

I'm very concerned that I've done the wrong thing here, since tarantulas usually take a while to settle down and make a home, before they start eating, but because he's not long molted the T. should be quite hungry. All this coupled with the fact that it's having difficulty moving has me very worried that my spider will not make it to the next molt.

Before transfered the T. to its new enclosure I killed a couple of hoppers and fed those to him, the T. seemed to take them readily so he does have an appetite despite the condition. Now I've moved it I don't know if it'll feed. I feel like I've let HAL down. Can anyone give me any suggestions at all? I'm at my wits end and really don't want to make anymore stupid mistakes. Thank you for reading, and thanks for any help you can offer.

 

[Kirsten]

Do you usually feed hoppers? I do know that regularly feeding hoppers and such provides too much calcium which can cause molt problems such as Hal's This may have been the problem rather than the den. If hoppers are a rare treat and not regular fare then Hal will probably settle down soon in his new home since he was able to eat. Since he's already moved,I would leave him be and not move him back. Maybe increase the heat in the room a bit to help him get to another molt quicker to start regenerating the lost limbs. Around 80-82 degrees F.If I'm correct.

Someone else more experienced can probably give you more to work with and/or correct anything I may have gotten wrong.

 

[Legrasse]

Do you usually feed hoppers? I do know that regularly feeding hoppers and such provides too much calcium which can cause molt problems such as Hal's This may have been the problem rather than the den. If hoppers are a rare treat and not regular fare then Hal will probably settle down soon in his new home since he was able to eat. Since he's already moved,I would leave him be and not move him back. Maybe increase the heat in the room a bit to help him get to another molt quicker to start regenerating the lost limbs. Around 80-82 degrees F.If I'm correct.

Someone else more experienced can probably give you more to work with and/or correct anything I may have gotten wrong.

No, that's great, I really appreciate any help I can get, no matter the experience level.

I have been feeding HAL hoppers, a lot recently, to all of my Ts in fact, because they won't accept dubia roaches. I had a bad turn with crickets when one of them tried to maul my cobalt blue, so I've been avoiding using them as well. I didn't know that hoppers had such a high calcium content though. Thank you for your advice.
My plan was to raise the temperature and humidity, and power feed HAL so that he would molt, and at least get *some* maneuverability back. I would have undoubtedly used hoppers. Time to get, and pre-kill, some crickets. I'll just let him settle for a while.

Would giant meal worms be okay, maybe?

 

[Newflvr]

I used to keep cork bark tubes with my arboreals, until that terrible day. The details include a adult female P. metallica attempting to molt in a tube, being stuck and dying. As a result I use branches or cork tubes cut in half to avoid an entrapment situation. A side note let your T relax a couple weeks after molt then procceed to feed . As for rehousing that soon after molt I wouldn't do it ( They just went through enough stress). Just my thoughts and Good Luck with Hal.

 

[xhexdx]

Just to be clear, you're talking about hopper mice, right?

I'd also recommend never using a full tube; you can't see what the spider is doing inside of it. Use half-tubes so you can still see in through the side.

The 'too much calcium' debate is still just that; nothing has been proven or disproven at this point.

--Joe

 

[Legrasse]

Thank you for the replies, guys. Using a hollowed out log was definitely due to a lack of experience. I've done exactly what you said this time, and actually used two sections. Hopefully HAL will make a home between the two and I can easily free him if future problems should arise. Assuming he is able to settle down again. Good news is that despite difficulty he's pretty active.

The food that I'm feeding my T.s are locust hoppers, sorry, I should have been more specific, I didn't know you could get hopper mice. I haven't fed any of my Ts mice yet

 

[xhexdx]

Once mice/rats are at an age where they're still nursing but running around on their own, they're referred to as 'hoppers'.

No need to apologize; I just wanted to make sure we knew what you were feeding them.

--Joe

 

[Legrasse]

I just stopped by to say thank you guys. Despite HAL's difficulty in moving, he's making a new home in between the two pieces of bark that I've placed in there. I'm pretty sure he's going to feed when he's comfortable in there, since he was eating just after he'd hardened, regardless of molting injuries, I think all will be fine.

I think I lucked out this time. *knocks on wood* Thank you for your help.