New T owner help

N1ghtFire

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 17, 2016
Messages
170



I have lots of ventalation on 3 sides of my enclosures and one hole on top just for watering through. If they aren't in premolt then I think how you are keeping them could be the problem. Definatly keep the sub slightly damp and offer a full waterbowl at all times. When I started off I had one of my Ts stop eating completely because I didnt realize it was a species to be kept a bit more damp and didn't have it set up right and it was dehydrated. As soon as I fixed my setup and gave it a waterbowl it returned to normal and began eating the next day.
 

KezyGLA

Arachnoking
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
3,013
Dehydrated specimens tend not to eat then the problems escalate.

Add a little moisture to the substrate of lividum and irminia. Put water dishes in all tubs.

Also if rhat is cardboard hides in second pic you should swap them out. Cardboard hosts bacteria and is prone to mould
 

miss moxie

Arachnoprince
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Messages
1,795
Dehydrated specimens tend not to eat then the problems escalate.

Add a little moisture to the substrate of lividum and irminia. Put water dishes in all tubs.

Also if rhat is cardboard hides in second pic you should swap them out. Cardboard hosts bacteria and is prone to mould
If you look close it seems like some sort of bark. Not sure if it's a thin piece of cork bark, or from another sort of tree.
 

katdust

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
12
I have added water bowls to all of the enclosers and i have a dead roach in each
 

Venom1080

Arachnoemperor
Joined
Sep 24, 2015
Messages
4,607
You need to add water to the substrate as well. A water dish isn't enough for those two
 

KezyGLA

Arachnoking
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
3,013
Excellent. Remember to remove uneaten prey within 24hrs to avoid mould/pests
 

mack1855

Arachnoangel
Arachnosupporter +
Joined
Sep 5, 2016
Messages
829
and i have a dead roach in each
Why don't you pull out the roaches.If I read this right,you have had them for a short time frame?.
Give them water,and let them settle down.Feeding can wait for a while.
 

0311usmc

Arachnobaron
Joined
Mar 16, 2017
Messages
332
When
Ok i have another question what makes a tarantula a difficult trantula?
When housed improperly. For example a fossorial living in 2" of substrate. An arboreal housed terrestrial and a terrestrial living in an enclosure with no hide or a retreat just dirt. A tarantula has to be comfortable in its environment. A tarantula not happy with its environment is going to show it by threat postures and always wondering its enclosure to find a safe spot. A tarantula that is setup properly is for the most part going to be an easy going and drama free tarantula. Always house accordingly to the individual specie and don't go cheap on substrate for fossorial, don't go cheap on height space for arboreals and give terrestrials a good hide or 2 and you will have minimal issues.
 

The Grym Reaper

Arachnoreaper
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Messages
4,830
Ok i have another question what makes a tarantula a difficult trantula?
Husbandry requirements - Keep some species too wet or too dry or with the wrong amount of ventilation and they die, this can be tricky to get right for new keepers.
Speed - Some species can move faster than you can react (I'm not exaggerating this in any way). I've had an E. cyanognathus bolt from its enclosure, run up a pair of 12" tongs and halfway up my arm before I'd even registered that it'd moved.
Temperament - Some species can be extremely defensive meaning they will not hesitate to bite you the moment they perceive you as a threat, this can frighten new keepers, hell, it can make experienced keepers nervous.
Venom potency - While no-one has ever died as a direct result of a Tarantula bite, Old World species (those from Africa/Asia) possess venom that could potentially hospitalise you, we're talking symptoms along the lines of extreme pain, nausea, vomiting, cramping/muscle spasms and even heart palpitations, some of these symptoms can persist for weeks/months after you were bitten.

As for the enclosure setups, these should give you the right idea.

The C. lividus sling requires deep/moist substrate for burrowing and a water dish, here's some pics of my H. gigas sling setup, to my knowledge they have similar care requirements. As you can see, it's a taller enclosure filled most of the way with substrate to allow for deep burrowing.

DSC00001.JPG DSC00002.JPG

The P. irminia sling requires slightly moist substrate of a depth that will allow burrowing if the sling chooses to, a water dish and an angled cork bark piece to hide under/behind, pics are of a P. ecclesiasticus sling enclosure but their care is pretty much identical.

DSC00003.JPG DSC00004.JPG

The C. cyaneopubescens sling can be kept on mostly dry substrate with a water dish (keep the substrate bone dry once they hit 1.5"), these do not burrow so shallow substrate is fine but they are a heavy webbing species so provide lots of anchor points for webbing, pics are of my D. diamantinensis (basically a slightly more moisture tolerant "mini GBB") sling setup but you're aiming for an enclosure like this but with mostly dry substrate.

DSC00005.JPG DSC00006.JPG
 
Last edited:
Top