My plans to get a Grammostola pulchra - peer review?

[Jackuul]

This would be my first spider (as I mentioned in the introduction thread my younger sibling has their own now, and as a recovering arachnophobic, I would like to have one, just one, only one, larger docile easy to maintain spider) so I would like to list out my basic planning for the spider.

First and foremost would be the terrarium - a basic 10 gallon you can get from wally-world would seem easy enough to obtain, it is pretty deep, and would allow for a good layer of substrate.

The Substrate: I'm planning some cheap pesticide free potting soil about 3 inches thick, followed by 2 inches of peat moss. This is where one of my questions come in: Is peat moss bad or good?

A water dish. Basically a rock bowl from a pet store, where the spider has plenty of room to dunk itself, but not drown itself.

A hideout: For this one I thought that perhaps the best solution would be to make a 'crater' in the substrate, and then cover it with a rounded log or perhaps even bury a ceramic pot half way. A nice cozy place for a big spider (or eventually big spider) to hang out and hide.

The feeding: I read that they're a bit more active and a bit more stable with their feeding habits, so I would likely not do the feast and famine method, but rather a food item per every other day while growing and when it gets bigger, slow that down.

A varied supply of crickets, and other bugs as available from the pet food place (a locust would be a find - I read with those you basically give it one, and then wait a week before the next feeding).

Now here's my temperature/humidity issues. I live in a house in the deserts of Colorado, and I would assume that the spider would be okay with a water dish, however I am unsure of the humidity level it needs to keep its book lungs from getting too dry. In a few fact sheets it lists them as 75-85%. Its usually about 50%.

Second issue, I stay in the cooler area of the home where it is in the 60s and 70s, but usually never below 62. Again, I am unsure if this will need to be warmed effectively as it is listed that the temperature should be around 75-85 for Grammostola pulchra. I would therefore assume a humidity and temperature control system with a thermostatic shutoff might be required, in order to keep the temperature and humidity at a comfortable level while not frying the poor critter.

Finally we come to the Spider itself. Grammostola pulchra are expensive as larger spiders, but seem less expensive the younger you get them. I would therefore plan to get the youngest possible, while still having gender identification to ensure I get a female. My goal would then be to have the spider well into my 40's and 50's (at 24, this would be a long term pet for me - and since they can presumably live 20-30 years, I would be between 44 and 54 when it reached its end.)

Acquiring a healthy specimen at the youngest age that sex is identifiable would be the last obstacle. If impossible, a really lucky G. Rosea gets a castle.

So now comes where I ask my question: Is this so far adequate planning for the long term care for a Brazilian Black? If they can comfortably survive in the lesser humidity and temperature, I would like to avoid the expense of building it a luxury condominium fit for Paris Hilton.

 

[satanslilhelper]

It sounds like you got the right idea. I think the temperature should be fine. It might grow slower with cooler temps.. Peat moss is fine. You would probably need to find a T that's 2 inches or bigger to be sure of the sex. I've bought most of my T's from Swift's Invertebrates. I know he has some G. Pulchras now along with some B. Smithis which are gorgeous and very long lived if female. The smithis are probably cheaper too. They are very docile T's. It's funny that you think your only getting one though!!

 

[satanslilhelper]

Also, lightly misting one half of the terrarium would solve any low humidity issues but brachys don't need high levels of humidity.

 

[WS6Lethal]

To get a female that's sexed and still not even an adult, prepare to spend a lot of money... IF you can find one. Any breeder is not going to have one, so you'll have to try to get one from someone who happens to be selling theirs. And I've seen them go for $300... UNSEXED.

 

[BrynWilliams]

Yeah a grown pulchra will certainly cost a few cents

Why not get something like a nice brachypelma, long lived, easy as pie to keep and look great! I myself don't own any but my first T was a G rosea who is a psychopath. I love her to bits but I worry more about doing cage maintenance in her cage than the other three I have a lot of the time

 

[WS6Lethal]

Also try to find Grammostola sp. "North". They're basically a variation of a G. Rosea. I have 2 that are super easy to take care of, and they are super gentle like a pulchra. They may be a bit harder to find, but not as expensive and rare as a pulchra.

 

[jbm150]

funny that you think your only getting one though!!

LOL I have to agree there. Just wait

 

[GailC]

My best suggestion is to get 2-3 slings and in a few years you can sex them and keep the one you want while selling the others. You won't need a 10 gallon tank for sometime, even a big female really doesn't need that much room.

 

[Mushroom Spore]

First and foremost would be the terrarium - a basic 10 gallon

Too big. As has been mentioned, that's about twice the space you'd need for a fully grown adult. And it will not be at all suitable for a spiderling or juvenile, for reasons I'll mention next-

The Substrate: I'm planning some cheap pesticide free potting soil about 3 inches thick, followed by 2 inches of peat moss. This is where one of my questions come in: Is peat moss bad or good?

Peat moss is fine. However five inches of dirt in a ten gallon tank is probably not going to be enough, and this is another reason why ten gallons is a waste for anything but a VERY large spider. They are not good climbers and can very easily suffer fatal injury if they fall in their tank, so the dirt needs to be high enough that there is no more than about the animal's legspan in distance from dirt to ceiling.

So trying to put a 3-4" tarantula in a ten gallon tank means filling most of the tank with substrate. Better to get a five gallon, a large plastic critter keeper, or something smaller depending on how big an animal you're purchasing.

The feeding: I read that they're a bit more active and a bit more stable with their feeding habits, so I would likely not do the feast and famine method, but rather a food item per every other day while growing and when it gets bigger, slow that down.

Way too much food! Even little spiderlings do fine on one feeding every week or two. Overfeeding has its own side effects, anyone who tells you that tarantulas can't become obese is talking nonsense. I suggest doing a forum search for "powerfeeding" but the short version is that feeding too much also speeds up the molting process, shortening overall lifespan and probably causing a lot of random fasting.

G. pulchra grow so insanely slowly that you're more likely to just get lots of annoying fasting than see any real effect on the speed of molting.

however I am unsure of the humidity level it needs to keep its book lungs from getting too dry. In a few fact sheets it lists them as 75-85%. Its usually about 50%.

Throw out those caresheets, there are no accurate tarantula caresheets on the internet except for our G. rosea sticky thread and an ongoing project to CREATE accurate caresheets. Most tarantulas, G. pulchra included, have no humidity needs and only need access to drinking water. You can experiment with your animal to see if they enjoy part of the substrate dampened occasionally, as long as you're careful to let it dry out often to cut down on mold and mites. But anyone telling you you need a certain % humidity to keep your tarantula alive is misinformed (or a pet store employee trying to sell you items you don't need).

Second issue, I stay in the cooler area of the home where it is in the 60s and 70s, but usually never below 62. Again, I am unsure if this will need to be warmed effectively as it is listed that the temperature should be around 75-85 for Grammostola pulchra.

Again, ignore the caresheets. If you're comfortable, the vast majority of species in the hobby are also comfortable. 65-85 is a good generic safe temperature zone, but I've seen people push it as far as 60-90.

I would therefore assume a humidity and temperature control system with a thermostatic shutoff might be required

No. Especially the humidity part would be a waste of money. At worst, you might look into buying a little reptile heating pad for the side of your enclosure, with a thermostat or dimmer switch. This is pretty inexpensive to set up. But you probably won't need it unless there's a blizzard or something going on and your house is getting extra cold.

 

[Jackuul]

I'd like to thank you for your responses and information in regards to the spider, and the conditions. I'm assuming that with the other spider in the house (my sibling's) we need to jack up the substrate a bit since its only got about 2 inches (it's the G. rosa). Probably going to get some cheap potting soil and bump it up to 6 inches (how many inches of glass should there be from "ground" to top by the way?)

The reason I am looking at the 10 gallon tanks is fiscal - they're actually cheaper than the 5s.

I am very glad to know that the temperatures are fine, and that humidity is not much of an option. Basically this has cut the costs to under 40 dollars for a good set up.

Also, I am guessing that the current spider (the Rose again) is getting fed way too much by my over-zealous brother (6 crickets, and waiting just one week). She's about (from abdomen to head) 2 inches in size, and was said to be rather young. So, I'll definitely tell him to cut back on those. He also likes to pick her up and hold her, for about 30 minutes, each day. I'm not sure if this is a major problem as the tarantula has yet to flick a single hair, but when it comes to this he refuses to listen.

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Now, as it pertains to my plans, I would still like to do a 10 gallon due to price, however I will look at thrift shops to see if I can find a smaller tank for a bit cheaper (however I don't know how you can beat 10 dollars).

As for the species I plan to get, I do like the rose, its inexpensive, however when I was looking at the different kinds, old world, new world, etc, I just kept coming back to G. pulchra. I looked at the others suggested, but something about that pure black just draws me back, and it might have to do with aesthetics. Or it could be because 20 years ago when I was 4 I wanted to be Darth Vader. I have no clue. I just really like the way G. pulchra looks.

So, as my revised list looks now:
Tank 5-10 gallon
Substrate - 6 inches of dirt with an additional 2 inches of moss (if I can find the stuff. Home Depot refuses to carry any except sheep manure mixed into it)
Humidity and Temp - Fine as-is, but get something for heating a corner in case we have another Denver Freeze over.
Feeding - Not as often as I initially planned.

Now, the spider itself, I understand this one's probably going to be the most expensive part. I saw a listing for them at 40 dollars, however I do not think they were identified by sex, and thus to get a female I'd have to get more than one... which blows the budget out of my waters right now.

From what I was reading it seems that they are difficult to breed, which is a problem for prices, and I always wondered exactly how that happened - no, not the there has to be a mommy spider and a daddy spider part - but the male spider staying alive specifically. I'm not sure if these kind have the ability to block the fangs, and thus, how does the male survive the encounter?

 

[Trav]

10 gallon is definitely not too big for an adult.

 

[Mushroom Spore]

I'm assuming that with the other spider in the house (my sibling's) we need to jack up the substrate a bit since its only got about 2 inches (it's the G. rosa). Probably going to get some cheap potting soil and bump it up to 6 inches (how many inches of glass should there be from "ground" to top by the way?)

Yep, you'll need a lot more dirt for that one. Falling injuries aren't pretty, it's like cracking an egg and there's not much you can do for the worst ones, it's over fast. The inches of glass, again, is dependent on the spider. If your G. rosea is two inches in legspan, you need two inches from dirt to ceiling (you can go as high as 1.5x, which in this case would be three inches, but that's about the limit if you want to eliminate the risk of falling injuries). Although later you say you're only measuring body length - legspan covers the whole thing. If your tarantula can have its back toes on soil and the top toes are close to (or touching) the top of the tank, it's a good height.

Also, I am guessing that the current spider (the Rose again) is getting fed way too much by my over-zealous brother (6 crickets, and waiting just one week).

Ahaha, yeah that's too much. Two crickets per week, or two crickets every two weeks, or even less will still have your G. rosea fat and healthy. I feed mine every month or two, basically whenever I remember. It gets 1-2 crickets for every week since I last fed it, tarantulas are great that way.

If your brother continues letting the rosea stuff itself, it's just going to fill up faster and then stop eating for months. (This will probably happen anyway, but it'll be worse if there's overfeeding involved.)

He also likes to pick her up and hold her, for about 30 minutes, each day. I'm not sure if this is a major problem as the tarantula has yet to flick a single hair, but when it comes to this he refuses to listen.

As long as the tarantula isn't showing signs of stress and your brother follows safe handling procedure, it's fine. The tarantula would "prefer" not to be handled, but it doesn't sound like it's hurting anything for now.

Just be very sure he's being safe when he does this. We get threads every so often where someone's tarantula gets startled and falls off someone's hand and hits the floor...and again, tarantulas aren't that good at surviving falls. (Tree-dwelling species are better at it, though.) So no holding the tarantula four feet off the ground while he wanders through the kitchen, that sort of thing. Low over a soft surface like a carpeted floor or his bed is best.

Now, as it pertains to my plans, I would still like to do a 10 gallon due to price, however I will look at thrift shops to see if I can find a smaller tank for a bit cheaper (however I don't know how you can beat 10 dollars).

PetCo's plastic critter keeper type enclosures run about $12 for the largest size if you hop on this internet sale thing they have going. You can get a little reptile heater and thermostat there as well as a hide and bowl, if you are paying shipping anyway you may as well.

Keep in mind that the enclosure size is completely dependent on what size tarantula you end up getting. If you get a huge enclosure and end up buying a little tiny spiderling, it will need smaller housing until it grows...and with G. pulchra it won't be growing for a long time.

Another warning about tiny tarantulas in large housing is escapes. We get sooo many threads where people put spiderlings in the smallest size critter keepers and don't realize that the spiderlings can escape out the ventilation slits. I wouldn't put anything under about 1.5 or 2 inches in one of those - they have to be big enough that their head won't fit through, or they WILL get out.

Anything smaller than that needs to go into a plastic deli cup or vial with tiny holes poked into it.

But yeah, don't lock yourself into a specific enclosure size or a specific number of inches of substrate until you know how big a T you're buying.

I always wondered exactly how that happened - no, not the there has to be a mommy spider and a daddy spider part - but the male spider staying alive specifically. I'm not sure if these kind have the ability to block the fangs, and thus, how does the male survive the encounter?

They have hooks to hold the fangs back, yes. I don't think this species is that infamous for males getting eaten before they can mate though. I'm pretty sure the problem is more AFTER the mating itself, with females failing to become gravid or laying dead eggsacks or something. I don't read many breeding threads though, it's just that when I see people talking about hungry females they usually mention other species as being the worst.

 

[satanslilhelper]

Leave vertical space equivalent to your T's length from front legs to back legs. This is the general rule when it comes to that. Again, if that T falls from too high it can literally bust it's bum. T's blood doesn't clot like ours so it will bleed to death unless fixed up by applying some superglue to the rupture. Just trying to keep you and your future T happy and safe.

 

[Jackuul]

Would a nice thick soft layer (this has been my reasoning for peat) help keep the spider safe from falls? I.E. if the spider (I'm speaking for the rose - which has now been christened by my brother as "Charolette") were to fall backwards onto itself, but land on the softer peat, it would be less likely to crack open and die horribly?

 

[Mushroom Spore]

Somewhat less, but a fall is still a fall and he should still make sure the enclosure is a safe height if he wants to eliminate the risk.

 

[Jackuul]

I went out and got some cheap potting soil. I had him move the spider to the "Emergency Mini House" and filled the sucker up about 6.5 inches. Charolette, once introduced to this improved living space, attempted to climb the wall and was up to near the top with a half inch to spare from her frontmost legs. I'm gussing this is sufficient, and exactly how any other spider habitat I create should be.

 

[Pacmaster]

Somewhat less, but a fall is still a fall and he should still make sure the enclosure is a safe height if he wants to eliminate the risk.

Just out of pure curiousity, what % of falls reult in a rupture?
My avics fall all the time, and have never had any ill-effects.
Granted, they are arboreal and supposed to handle a fall better than a terrestrial species, but like you said- "a fall is a fall".

Has anyone actually had their own T burst open from a known fall, or is all the worry just panic and prevention?


To the OP, I think G pulchra is a great choice for you.
Dunno if its been metioned yet to you, but they dont kick hairs either, something the brachys do.
All your housing and care ideas sound right on, just need to scale everything down to the size of the T as it grows, and your feeding schedule is a little much- do like 1/2 that or even a bit less.

I dont have any, but I think those pulchras are beauties, and would way rather have one than a brachy . . .
And I definately second the idea mentioned to get a few small slings and raise them up, keep your female(you should know within 12-18 months), and sell the rest to get the cash for a "Paris Hilton Enclosure" for her . . .
Thats the way to go, and will solve the other proposed problem . . . you cant just have one T

 

[Mushroom Spore]

Yep! Also don't be surprised if the spider clings to the wall for as long as a few weeks. This doesn't mean there's something wrong with the enclosure, it just means that tarantulas are confused by change. She'll get used to it again.

Just out of pure curiousity, what % of falls reult in a rupture?

I don't think anyone's ever calculated it, it would be a bit expensive to test out. Furthermore it would be kind of pointless, since an overweight tarantula falling half an inch on soil is not the same fall as a normal weight tarantula falling from three feet above the kitchen floor, or a thousand other variables (including sheer luck) that can mean the difference between life and death. This includes whether or not the T is arboreal - my "a fall is a fall" statement does not apply where arboreals are concerned, since they are substantially more likely to be unharmed after a drop that would probably reduce a G. rosea to a mess on the carpet.

Has anyone actually had their own T burst open from a known fall, or is all the worry just panic and prevention?

No, it's not just panic. We've had LOTS of threads along the lines of "guys my tarantula fell from the tank lid and it's bleeding," "guys my relative dropped my T and killed it," "guys my cat knocked over the tank," "guys my hand slipped and I dropped a spiderling," and any other possible situation you can think of (and a few you can't).

 

[Jackuul]

About your mentioning that there is a project going on for a fact sheet accuracy type deal... does it need a wiki? I'm more into web development than anything and I could set one up to be used and such. Assuming of course, that would be desirable for the project. I believe there are hooks that would allow for one, if installed here on this site, to use the VB database allowing all members to edit it pretty much.

Otherwise I'm game to just set something up. I really would have loved if all the info you all have given me was in one place, instead of learning a bunch of inaccuracies and then coming here to have them corrected.