is this normal for a t.blondi????

mackids

Arachnosquire
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kilgore my t.blondi is acting weird I dont know if its premolt behavior or what. Usually shes very active and when food is present you dont want to be even 10 inches away from her strike lately she sits in her water dish squished up and makes little effort to attach the small crickets I put in to provoke her. If anyone has witnessed this and has and ideas I'd appreciate it!
 
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surena

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She could possibly be in pre-molt. Make sure the humidity is high and that her water bowl if full. She should be ok. Do you know the last time she molted ?
 

Thoth

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A sure sign of insufficient humidity in the enclosure. From the picture the substrate looks pretty dry. T's will "squat" over the water dish because of the higher humidity, which is necessary for book lung function. Try misting the enclosure.
 

mackids

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yea I am assuming its premold behavior. and I am not sure when the last time she molted was this would be the first time she molted in my ownership which is about 2 months give or take. thats for the input!
 

mackids

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I mist 2 or 3 times a day. the soil does look dry and I been meaning to try a new mix. thanks for the help!
 

Pennywise

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Other suggestions

A larger water dish can provide more humidity. If there is a screen top you can lay damp paper towels on top of it.
 
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PhormictopusMan

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I would definitely say she needs more humidity. I would layer half the tank with moist peat moss (keep it moist) and see if she is drawn to it. If so then layer the whole thing. You might want to layer the whole thing anyway and get some water down into the substrate. And like Mex says, you can partially cover the top to reduce evaporation. This spider really appreciates a bit higher humidity. There was a post recently about a T. blondi that did not survive its molt and the conditions in that case was also a dry enclosure. I know the trend right now is to go dry, but if it were my spider, and I will stress this is my own opinion, I would definitely get her some humidity.

Good luck,

--Chris
 
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mackids

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till I go out tomorrow and get some peat moss to mix with my soil I added a larger shallower dish and used a 60cc syringe and injected water deep into the substrate and and also on the top along with a good spray down. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. thanks everyone I appreciate your help in the matter!
 

PhormictopusMan

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The water will work its way down in on its own. Be careful not to make it a soupy mess :) . Moistening the soil and adding the peat should be plenty. If you do cover the enclosure make sure you open it up every day and vent out the stale air. Keep an eye out for mold on the substrate and beneath the substrate also as you look through the glass. You don’t need to make it a rainforest in there. Also if you keep a humid tank, make sure you clean up any food remains on a strict basis. If you feel that you might have added too much moisture, just mix in some more dry tomorrow when you get the peat. It should be fine.

Good luck,

--Chris
 

Whiskeypunk

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And, if possible go outside and find some roly-polies/isopods/pillbugs/sowbugs (all names for the same thing) and place them your blondis cage, they eat the mold and leftover cricket remains.
 

Runaway987

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Can you provide a better picture of the terrarium as a whole so we can advise on size of water bowl etc. I keep my substrate damp by pretty much drenching it once every other month and always maintain a full water bowl.

Even then the Blondis seem to love the water. Without being nasty, the health of that spider looks dire and the substrate... What is it? Its far too dry either way...

Princess sends a postcard "Hope you get better soon"



Runaway
 

mackids

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again thanks for all the advice. I am gonna change her cage again. I took everything out for the sake of wetting the substrate so its bare bones. I added that pink water dish to the left today. so tomorrow I am gonna get some new substrate. any suggestions I was thinking peat and potting soil mix?
 
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DanHalen

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None of my Tarantulas are kept in high humidity at all. It can cause too many molting problems (especially in Theraphosa's - if the humidity is kep too high with poor ventilation). Also, some people have suggested retarding the ventilation to increase humidity - This is a VERY bad idea. Poor ventilation with Blondi's can prove very detrimental.

People have been saying that humidity is important for book lung function. If this is so, then please explain the Green Bottle Blue to me.

Internal hydaration is much more important than external hydration. The tarantula would NOT be obtaining moisture from the air! If you are using wet substrate and have a high humidity level, the tarantula would be using the substrate as a water dish - That is the only difference. When a Theraphosa, or any tarantula for that matter needs water, it will search for it!

I say, along with a good few other Theraphosa owners, stick with dry substrate. If the tarantula needs water, it will drink from the dish - as yours, and mine, and many other peoples do! There are alot of complications that can arise from humidity issues.

One thing however, the substrate does not look particularly suitable. Try straight forward peat - Works perfectly fine here. Also, try a larger flower pot, and place it pretty far into the peat at about a 45 degree angle - Theraphosa's love to burrow - But they are LAZY, and most of the time will only adopt pre made ones.

In reagrds to people saying that the tarantula doesnt look particularly healthy... Looks ok to me, no huge bald spot from stress - a little hair loss from the longer hairs, but nothing drastic from the small "base hairs" so to speak, good sized abdomen, where are you basing this from?

One other thing, the spider (from this picture anyway) looks a little too "leggy" for a Blondi - It looks a little like an Apophysis - Do you have any more photo's

Good luck buddy - All the best, Dan.


PhormictopusMan said:
I would definitely say she needs more humidity. I would layer half the tank with moist peat moss (keep it moist) and see if she is drawn to it. If so then layer the whole thing. You might want to layer the whole thing anyway and get some water down into the substrate. And like Mex says, you can partially cover the top to reduce evaporation. This spider really appreciates a bit higher humidity. There was a post recently about a T. blondi that did not survive its molt and the conditions in that case was also a dry enclosure. I know the trend right now is to go dry, but if it were my spider, and I will stress this is my own opinion, I would definitely get her some humidity.

Good luck,

--Chris

That Blondi was also molting upside! And was pretty "robust" to say the least. How are you basing that it was down to poor humidity?
 
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mackids

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thanks Dan I hope your right. she aleady seems to be acting healthier already. I'm gonna change the substrate and just hope for the best. by next week I hope she will have molted or at least be back to her wild self
 

PhormictopusMan

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I would like to make some comments. If once in awhile you see your spider hovering over the water dish, I would not think there is cause for alarm. If your spider is continually found hovering over a water dish, then you are not providing it with an optimum habitat. Even if the spider is over the dish, it is problematic to assume that it is receiving adequate hydration. This species of spider is from a rainforest where humidity is 70% and higher.

Yes there are issues with ventilation. As I stated, if you go with a humid enclosure then vent it out everyday. It will rehumidify. I have witnessed my blondi come out of its hide after a recent moistening and proceed to rub(massage) itself all over, just basking in it.

Molting in dry conditions. I agree that internal hydration is crucial for a successful molt. I don't agree that external hydration plays a zero roll. Place a dried exuvium in a humid container overnight and it will become pliable. Granted much of the success of a molt comes from the produced enzymes that break down the bond between the new and old dermis, but I wouldn't discount humidity's roll in the process.

I am not positive, but I am thinking that the “keep it dry” trend is really designed as a “keep it simple” ideology. There are a lot of complications as mentioned, to keeping high humidity enclosures. Because 90% of the time dry will work, (though it might not be optimum habitat) then that is the best default condition to keep. Yes it is high maintenance to keep humidity, to keep the air clean, to keep the substrate free of parasites and molds, but this is one of the reasons, apart from the obvious reasons, why this spider is not considered a good beginner spider.

Lastly and most importantly, a tarantula owner needs to pay attention to his experience. Be careful of the trends of opinions on things. Listen to everything and experiment and observe and learn what works. When I started this hobby I kept my Nhandu Colortavalosus, then Brazilapelma Colortavalosum, in a relatively dry substrate. I knew it was from a grassy drier habitat. When I mentioned the way I kept it the particular board I was on went crazy saying it was too dry, and that I should immediately increase the humidity (This was not a high-humidity rainforest spider). The trend was exactly the opposite of what it is now. Well, my spider did perfectly well. Observe your spider’s behavior in both dry and humid conditions. It will endure the test—They are hardy. Find out what works.

I will end this with how I ended my first comments. This is simply my opinion and thoughts on the matter. Remember, that is all most of the responses on these boards are. I would be interested in links to any articles written on the subject of dry enclosures versus wet. I am in and out of following the hobby and do not have all of the recent ATS books, but suspect that something has been published recently.

Good luck,

--Chris
 
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AfterTheAsylum

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DanHalen said:
She's definitely in pre molt!

None of my Tarantulas are kept in high humidity at all. It can cause too many molting problems (especially in Theraphosa's). Also, some people have suggested retarding the ventilation to increase humidity - This is a VERY bad idea. Poor ventilation with Blondi's can prove very detrimental.

\
How many were waiting for this? Dry substrate is the bad idea. Keep it higher in humidity - around 70%. I like 80% personally. High humidity may cause molting problems in other Ts, but not Theraphosa blondi. So I don't know where the "especially in Theraphosas" comes in. I have very extensive experience with T. blondi. It is okay to keep them drier than suggested, but some statements seem pretty bold.

The blondi also looks pretty beat up. When did you get it?
 

Whiskeypunk

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DanHalen said:
She's definitely in pre molt!

It can cause too many molting problems (especially in Theraphosa's).
Interesting how over the last month you have gone from posting that you hypothesize that humidity has something to do with bad molts, to posting straight on yes it does.

Do you have any evidence (outside of ancedotal) that humid environment causes bad molts?

To Mackids, I would listen to Soulsick, he has like 15 or 20 T blondi. I am following his advice posted in this thread and others on raising my Theraphosa Blondi.
 

Spike

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Maybe a different supstrate will help to keep humidity up longer with less time spent having to spray the tank. Looks premolt to me also.... Hope everything works out for you

@Runaway987 Princess is gorgeous:) Nice job on her care :clap:
 

Runaway987

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How many were waiting for this? Dry substrate is the bad idea. Keep it higher in humidity - around 70%. I like 80% personally. High humidity may cause molting problems in other Ts, but not Theraphosa blondi. So I don't know where the "especially in Theraphosas" comes in. I have very extensive experience with T. blondi. It is okay to keep them drier than suggested, but some statements seem pretty bold.
I was certainly waiting to hear that soulsick...

DanHelen youre making very bold statements without any evidence to support it. You wouldnt keep a Chameleon in a dry substrate with a water dish so why do people assume you can do the same for a spider?

Its not too difficult to work out guys. The spider comes from a rainforest [That floods yearly]. Even if you could keep it on dry substrate why would you? Like putting a penguin in the African plains with the mentality "It will cope".

Its not eve like its hard work, I dont use moss or anything else to keep it all damp i just have deep substrate and fill the bottom 1/5 of the terrarium with water once every 2 months or something. The peat rapidly dries and sucks up the water via capillary action, the fact that its drying out means its releasing the water into the air. Never had mould either...


@ Mackid the pink dish looks far better, I would advise you give the spider half the tanks height as shown in substrate and make a proper burrow for it, they are obviously at home in burrows because "Princess" has webbed all over inside it, builds barricades to the entrance and defends it with attitude.

Good luck, I am glad you are keen to learn about how to keep the Blondi, though dare i say it you should ignore danhelen on this one. :wall:

@Spike She is flattered and has spent the last hour grooming her legs.

EDIT> Just from looking at your enclosure again mate what "I" would do [Not scientific conclusive FACT Dan :p] Is to get some peat and potting soil and give it at least 4-5 inches of depth, either building it the starts to a burrow that it can finish or getting a large thin plastic pot and bury that at a 45 degree angle. If you are interested in my Burrow search "Runaway Blondi" made from a cordial bottle. Best of luck keep us posted.
 
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