Incubation of Cockroach Egg Cases (and gecko eggs)

[richard22]

I have been having trouble incubating my Red Runner ootheca. I know the egg cases need to be in humidity to hatch, so this complicates things much more, especially for me. I separate the egg cases into a small container with little holes, maggots. I put a few in 1g jars and something might happen but it seems slow, I read they could take a few weeks. I also have been trying to incubate 2 leopard gecko eggs but mold grew on them and now they’re ruined too, I followed the tutorials online. I put the eggs on moist ecoearth in an unventilated container, opening every once in awhile, also in a room with high heat. I am skeptical of raising the humidity in the red runner bin, right now ventilation is good so I’d have to basically pour water right onto the frass and other debris and make a mess that’ll dessicate within a day anyway, only way I could do it is by having very limited ventilation and that will also be very susceptible to mold and grain/flour mites. I keep all my roaches and roach egg cases in my hot attic at average humidity, a big fan is there too.

How will I incubate the egg cases, or leopard gecko eggs, without mold growing? Higher ventilation (to prevent mold) means less humidity and rapid substrate dessication if in high heat and more work misting and pouring water which I cannot deal with if it is every day and not every other day since my brain is not programmed that way. Could I add mold inhibitor oil (diluted potassium sorbate) to the incubation substrate to prevent it, or would that be harmful to the eggs? I could also use an auto bug zapper near the enclosure to prevent the tiny fat gnats from laying eggs through ventilation holes. Do the ootheca need heating to hatch, because it’d be more convenient to have in my room temperature living room so I could watch it more often and mist/water.

 

[Weaternpi]

having same issue

 

[richard22]

I have tried using driftwood, pieces of bark, and sponges to retain moisture is some areas, spraying them generously everytime I open, and also limiting ventilation. Mold has not grown and mites are not noticeable, possibly from the buffalo worms. After doing this, I am seeing babies again after having my colony stagnant with only nymphs and adults. It may not be optimal, but as long as mold isn't growing spraying pieces of sterilized driftwood and bark may be a good idea. Plus the driftwood is being devoured by the buffalo worms, something I rarely see with isopods, so it might be good for composting easily accessible wood if you live near water.

 

[Weaternpi]

So spraying it will help to get getting them to hatch? But I always heard that buffalo beetles will eat the ootheca that is why I got rid of them i only have them with my Dubia and Madagascar Hissers. Also one of the guy who I bought them from and breeds many he told be to put mud at the bottom of the bin. I put worm casting with some bark and the African Night Crawlers keep it really nice and clean

 

[richard22]

So spraying it will help to get getting them to hatch? But I always heard that buffalo beetles will eat the ootheca that is why I got rid of them i only have them with my Dubia and Madagascar Hissers. Also one of the guy who I bought them from and breeds many he told be to put mud at the bottom of the bin. I put worm casting with some bark and the African Night Crawlers keep it really nice and clean

I'm worried not using buffalo worms will make everything go rancid and moldy and spark a massive grain mite outbreak, something I'd rather not have. The roaches probably don't eat through the substrate, so if there is a substrate there will inevitably be something eating it. My substrate is a mix of leftover food, empty/dried ootheca, and scraps; I obviously can't take every ootheca to isolate and hatch, so either my turkestan roach production is lower or I cultivate mold and grain mites unless the roaches can do well with a bone dry substrate. Or I experiment with alternative substrates or just no substrate (the latter is probably too high maintenance). Worms would be hard, the bin would probably dry out randomly since my attic is fairly hot and fluctuates from room humidity to above average unless I minimize ventilation to almost none, inviting mold outbreaks anyway.