Humidity in my T Blondi enclosure still safe?

jfuente31

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
75
Hi guys,

Just wanted to ask if this is still safe for my T Blondi. His enclosure is currently at 80F and about 95% humidity. Is this still safe or should I need to lower the humidity down to about 80? He is about 4 1/4" big

Thank you all in advance
Jay
 

satch

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
179
Hi guys,

Just wanted to ask if this is still safe for my T Blondi. His enclosure is currently at 80F and about 95% humidity. Is this still safe or should I need to lower the humidity down to about 80? He is about 4 1/4" big

Thank you all in advance
Jay
hello Jay !!

This is only my opinion !! I got a theraphosa "stirmi" burgundy it was 1inch 15 months ago and it just died a couple days ago at 7inch and a female!!! Now i think it got a bit too dry for its liking which suxs it died!! My fault i was so up set!! I have my T room at 80 degrees !! For this type of T i would not rely on misting every day !! Dampen the substrate and keep it damp as these species are swamp dwellers!! I think the humity they say is 85-95 if im correct just keep the substrate damp !! All i can stress i lost a 7 inch female beautiful creature over my stupidity and lazyness because i was working lots!!! Never again will that happen!! Hope this helps !! Good luck!!
 

synyster

Arachnobaron
Joined
Sep 3, 2010
Messages
530
Theraphosa species should never drop underneath 90% if you intend on having success with them. This is one of the hardest species to keep in captivity but if you find a good setup, it can be easier to succeed. My 7 year old T. blondi has never been kept under 90-100% and all but 1 molt went flawless.

So bottom line, always keep the humidity as high as possible with this species as it is the key to successful molts.
 

jfuente31

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
75
Here some pics of the enclosure

Right side of the enclosure where the water is at is pretty damp, and the left side is just moist but not as damp.



Temp inside

 

synyster

Arachnobaron
Joined
Sep 3, 2010
Messages
530
Looks perfectly fine to me. Just keep it that way and at those settings but watch out for mold and stagnant air, as that can also kill your T as easily as low humidity ;)
 

jfuente31

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
75
Theraphosa species should never drop underneath 90% if you intend on having success with them. This is one of the hardest species to keep in captivity but if you find a good setup, it can be easier to succeed. My 7 year old T. blondi has never been kept under 90-100% and all but 1 molt went flawless.

So bottom line, always keep the humidity as high as possible with this species as it is the key to successful molts.
Awesome!, now I dont have to worry about it getting to high :D

Yes, I have read that they are one of the more difficult ones to keep due to the specifics with temp. Hopefully I get to do a good job at it from the get go, of course with everyone is the forums help :D
 

satch

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
179
Theraphosa species should never drop underneath 90% if you intend on having success with them. This is one of the hardest species to keep in captivity but if you find a good setup, it can be easier to succeed. My 7 year old T. blondi has never been kept under 90-100% and all but 1 molt went flawless.

So bottom line, always keep the humidity as high as possible with this species as it is the key to successful molts.
question is there any possible way to keep the tiny white mites out of such a damp enclosure? Thats how mine died I dryed it out a bit too keep the little white bugs out !! Also have you ever bread m.balfouris??
 

jfuente31

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
75
Looks perfectly fine to me. Just keep it that way and at those settings but watch out for mold and stagnant air, as that can also kill your T as easily as low humidity ;)
As far as the stagnant air goes, I hope that my set up would not be a problem.

I took a pic of the top cover of the enclosure. Everything else is covered except for the bottom left part that you guys will see. If this will cause some major stagnant air, let me know if theres a way to still maintain all the temp and humidity that I currently have but able to air out the enclosure...



I think I am pretty watchful on any changes in the enclosure, being new to the hobby I am pretty cautious about everything although I try not to bother the T`s too much and just observe them by looking, lol

Thanks again
 

synyster

Arachnobaron
Joined
Sep 3, 2010
Messages
530
I have never had any mite problems so I could not say what's needed to be done. But to prevent the problem, I believe it has alot to do with the airflow that the tank has. The more ventilation you block off, the more problems you might have...

As to M.balfouri bread, that sounds tasty!! ;)

But no, I have never bred M.balfouri. But I have read that it is fairly hard to produce a viable eggsac. Possibly as hard as T.blondi, but they like it alot more on the dryer side than Theraphosa's though...

EDIT: to the OP, I'll go snatch some pics in a couple of minutes...

---------- Post added 08-21-2011 at 08:44 PM ----------

Notice any ressemblances?




 

jfuente31

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
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Aug 10, 2011
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Awesome!!!! now I just gotte leave her alone and just monitor the temp/humidity. I think he is on pre-molt with his big black abdomen bald spot. Thank you again for the help. ill copy those pics for reference :D
 
Last edited:

webbedone

Arachnobaron
Joined
Aug 27, 2010
Messages
409
90% humididty is standard for a T blondi, 90+ is not a big of a deal infact maybe even positive for molts. Any ways those flukers hydrometers are most unreliable ever better ones are the caliber something cant rememeber the complete brand name, for cigar hymidors.
 

jfuente31

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
75
90% humididty is standard for a T blondi, 90+ is not a big of a deal infact maybe even positive for molts. Any ways those flukers hydrometers are most unreliable ever better ones are the caliber something cant rememeber the complete brand name, for cigar hymidors.
Ok, thanks for that info, I think I found it, called the Caliber III Thermometer Hygrometer. Ill most likely get one sometime this week, so far my meter is reading about 99% humidty, so it may be a bit inaccurate but if ever hopefully my enclosure set up should still hold at least 90+ even with what I have right now reading incorrectly until I change it :D
 

roc101

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
1
Hey I had a T.storming that I kept for lil over 2 years. At first I was spraying every other day that got old fast, so I started to cover the top about 80 to 85% of it and for a couple months I was happy and relieved. About two months ago I notice her always going right under the part that wasn't covered and staying there for hours, she stop eating and all of sudden dead. She was about 9.75inches so that pissed me off, I am blaming it on the air being to stagnant. I know these are a pain in the butt to keep alive but if I do get another one I will get a humidifier with a timer, but that's just my experience.
 

satch

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
179
Hey I had a T.storming that I kept for lil over 2 years. At first I was spraying every other day that got old fast, so I started to cover the top about 80 to 85% of it and for a couple months I was happy and relieved. About two months ago I notice her always going right under the part that wasn't covered and staying there for hours, she stop eating and all of sudden dead. She was about 9.75inches so that pissed me off, I am blaming it on the air being to stagnant. I know these are a pain in the butt to keep alive but if I do get another one I will get a humidifier with a timer, but that's just my experience.
man it suck's !! Thats too bad also these species are hard to satisfiy i learnt from firat hand!!
 
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