Holes and dead air space

MJInsoCal

Arachnopeon
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Jul 6, 2020
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The practical question is… how many, what sized holes are enough for a terrarium? The details, I would assume as the bio-load increases (more critters, bigger T's), the more animals in there, the more air and ventilation, minus the amount of plant life, doing the Co2 to O2 convert. But, I’m guessing these small token holes just leave a huge dead air space. Yet tarantula keepers seem to be using deli dishes and a modest number of small holes without a problem.

Any rule of thumb for this? I doubt anyone is actually measuring O2 levels in these things (we did, or I did, but some 20 something years ago, in University. Thoughts?

After buying one of those plastic display boxes, and drilling some holes... yeah that beats the pants of a glass terrarium with a foot grabber / trap mesh top. Nothing like coming home to your T doing the Stallone one armed cliff hanger.
 

Poonjab

Arachnoking
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No rule of thumb. Just put in as many holes as what seems appropriate per species (avicularia) and allows for decent air flow. Just make sure holes aren’t bigger than carapace or your T will escape.
 

Smotzer

ArachnoGod-Mod
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I personally err on the side of when making my own enclosures to have a little more ventilation for everything, but it really comes down to personal preference and depends on what species you are setting up and how it is kept, moist/dry.
 

The Grym Reaper

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Jul 19, 2016
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Tarantulas breathe passively so you're basically just trying to create enough airflow to prevent stagnant conditions. In this regard, placement of holes is more important than the amount in my experience.

For example, the enclosures that I use for Psalmopoeinae/Pokies/arboreal Ornithoctoninae (pictured below) have a row of holes on three sides just above sub level and a few holes in the lid (the lids are similar to RUBs so the tubs aren't airtight to begin with), this basically replicates the placement of Exo Terra/European-style glass enclosure ventilation which have a vent on the front above sub level and ventilation in the top/lid so that fresh air is pulled in through the lower vent as warmer air escapes through the top, this is sufficent to keep even Aviculariinae alive (although I do like to provide more holes on the sides at mid height and near the top for those just to err on the side of caution).

Non Avic setup 3.jpg
 

DomGom TheFather

Arachnoprince
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Apr 26, 2020
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It definitely keeps things from getting stagnant if you use more holes, G.
Sayin'?
:smug::smug::smug:
 
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Chebe6886

Arachnobaron
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Apr 24, 2018
Messages
522
Ventilation shouldn’t correlate in any way to bio load... also tge conversion of CO2 to O2 in a terrarium is negligible and not something to account for let alone rely on
 

Rhino1

Arachnobaron
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Jan 9, 2019
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490
I like to have ventilation holes just above substrate level (air goes in) and also ventilation holes at the highest point of the enclosure (air goes out).
Ive had very few mould or stagnant air problems since changing to this method or maybe it's just been coincidence.
 

MJInsoCal

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jul 6, 2020
Messages
27
Holes just above substrate prob would be ideal as long as they don't allow for small things to get in and out of your enclosure. warmer air escapes through the top, creating a slight vaccuum that draws in air as low as possible allowing for the most airflow. You would need air holes both at the bottom and some close to the top. Seem everyone moved away from glass top mesh terrariums. After seeing a few different critters stuck at the top in the classic Stallone one armed cliffhanger pose, I understand the change.
 
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