- Joined
- Oct 2, 2023
- Messages
- 275
I wanted to create some haplotanks and try them out. I thought the idea was very interesting, so around black friday I picked up some cereal containers and got drilling.
The plastic material in all containers is thick, so you would be better off using a dremel or drill. You could get away with a soldering iron but make sure the area has good ventilation because it will take longer to burn, creating more exposure to the fumes.
I'll list some points that I really enjoy. I couldn't find any real drawbacks of going with this system other than the container itself. Containers come in different sizes. But you at least want 6-7" of substrate, and keep in mind they will build a turret. So you don't want to pack too high. 3" should be plenty and you can remove any excess webbing if it comes to high. If your T is particularly defensive, take a skewer or wire and loosen the web by placing it in one of the ventilation holes. This will make it easier to remove when you go to grab with tongs.
This option is good for Asian fossorials. Very large fossorials like C schmidti or C hainum would most likely fair better in the beloved bird feeder I talk about so much aka "Budeez Bird Feeder", or any taller container lol
Likes
Easier to water.
Since the space is more compact, it requires less water than a sterilite or other similar sized enclosure. Since the material is clear (depending on what you buy) you can also monitor the moisture layer. Opaque containers are less visible (but it isn't too hard). Adding a drainage layer is a good idea. I also add, a substrate level row of holes and then good cross flow on either ends.
Materials built too last.
The construction of an oxo container, or the home edit cereal containers is virtually the same as a critter keeper. The clear mainstay cereal containers (snap top) is also very snug. Your T isn't going to escape unless you leave the the pourer open or the top off. The suction rings around the tops also add to really create a tight seal that requires effort to remove. You can go as cheap as you want and still have the desired effect, but you'll compromise on the longevity a bit and likely the security as well. Best way is to shop around and see what works.
Space savings.
If there's one genus of Asian Fossorial you're after, and you want to collect a bunch of cyriopagopus for example. You can do that with this system while taking up minimal space.
Easier maintenace.
Instead of tracking a large surface area for boluses, it takes little time to spot clean. You can also monitor your T easier because youll likely see the burrow and where they are located. This isn't guaranteed but given a nice starter burrow, they should adopt it pretty quick. For fossorials that create web tube's this is a good system. They create their burrow extending all the way down and may dig to the water end.
Observation.
Being able to observe your fossorial much easier. Given a wide open sterilite full of dirt; seeing your T is going to be much less frequent. But this isn't a bad thing depending on the keeper.
Sterilites, haplotanks, critter keepers all work, but I think this may be a good option for people who want to expand into the fossorial world or who want to save some space in hopes of adding more. Or, maybe someone who just wants a cool project.
In the hobby were often told more space equals less defensiveness and I agree with this. But, so far my experience has been positive. So just something you may want to explore if you're looking for a new project
Dislikes
The only dislike I can think of is the shape. Some care needs to be taken to not tip the container. But if you have a flat shelf or a flat panel for wire racking, you can easily remedy this.
I'm not going to review each individual container unless there is interest and I can follow up with that. But, taller is always better but you can make do with something that isn't 11-12" high
I posted a few examples so I hope this helps. Any questions or concerns feel free
The plastic material in all containers is thick, so you would be better off using a dremel or drill. You could get away with a soldering iron but make sure the area has good ventilation because it will take longer to burn, creating more exposure to the fumes.
I'll list some points that I really enjoy. I couldn't find any real drawbacks of going with this system other than the container itself. Containers come in different sizes. But you at least want 6-7" of substrate, and keep in mind they will build a turret. So you don't want to pack too high. 3" should be plenty and you can remove any excess webbing if it comes to high. If your T is particularly defensive, take a skewer or wire and loosen the web by placing it in one of the ventilation holes. This will make it easier to remove when you go to grab with tongs.
This option is good for Asian fossorials. Very large fossorials like C schmidti or C hainum would most likely fair better in the beloved bird feeder I talk about so much aka "Budeez Bird Feeder", or any taller container lol
Likes
Easier to water.
Since the space is more compact, it requires less water than a sterilite or other similar sized enclosure. Since the material is clear (depending on what you buy) you can also monitor the moisture layer. Opaque containers are less visible (but it isn't too hard). Adding a drainage layer is a good idea. I also add, a substrate level row of holes and then good cross flow on either ends.
Materials built too last.
The construction of an oxo container, or the home edit cereal containers is virtually the same as a critter keeper. The clear mainstay cereal containers (snap top) is also very snug. Your T isn't going to escape unless you leave the the pourer open or the top off. The suction rings around the tops also add to really create a tight seal that requires effort to remove. You can go as cheap as you want and still have the desired effect, but you'll compromise on the longevity a bit and likely the security as well. Best way is to shop around and see what works.
Space savings.
If there's one genus of Asian Fossorial you're after, and you want to collect a bunch of cyriopagopus for example. You can do that with this system while taking up minimal space.
Easier maintenace.
Instead of tracking a large surface area for boluses, it takes little time to spot clean. You can also monitor your T easier because youll likely see the burrow and where they are located. This isn't guaranteed but given a nice starter burrow, they should adopt it pretty quick. For fossorials that create web tube's this is a good system. They create their burrow extending all the way down and may dig to the water end.
Observation.
Being able to observe your fossorial much easier. Given a wide open sterilite full of dirt; seeing your T is going to be much less frequent. But this isn't a bad thing depending on the keeper.
Sterilites, haplotanks, critter keepers all work, but I think this may be a good option for people who want to expand into the fossorial world or who want to save some space in hopes of adding more. Or, maybe someone who just wants a cool project.
In the hobby were often told more space equals less defensiveness and I agree with this. But, so far my experience has been positive. So just something you may want to explore if you're looking for a new project
Dislikes
The only dislike I can think of is the shape. Some care needs to be taken to not tip the container. But if you have a flat shelf or a flat panel for wire racking, you can easily remedy this.
I'm not going to review each individual container unless there is interest and I can follow up with that. But, taller is always better but you can make do with something that isn't 11-12" high
I posted a few examples so I hope this helps. Any questions or concerns feel free
