Got my GBB

runCMD

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 21, 2017
Messages
36
Just received the first T of my adult life this afternoon, a GBB from Jamie's. I fed it a tiny cricket that it enthusiastically captured. It's still working on it at the top of the fake plant which I am a bit worried about. It has already webbed up there and is hanging out with the cricket. When it is done eating this(tomorrow?) should I just remove the plant from the enclosure to reduce falling risk?



Here is a decent picture from when I first transferred it for scale:

 

Goldcup

Arachnopeon
Joined
Nov 24, 2015
Messages
21
I'm not a pro but the two GBB slings I've had spent most of their time up high. Both were voracious eaters and rarely turned down a meal. I absolutely love these T's!
 

PanzoN88

Arachnodemon
Joined
Sep 15, 2014
Messages
693
The GBB will be perfectly fine, some consider them semi arboreal. By this time next week the plant will probably have a nice layer of webs covering it. The pant is necessary for them to web.
 

Chris LXXIX

ArachnoGod
Active Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
5,689
No. Eventually the plant will be used as a hide, or surrounded with web. C.cyaneopubescens, while terrestrials, possess a nice agility unlike majority of clumsy NW terrestrial T's.
 

runCMD

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 21, 2017
Messages
36
Thanks everyone, I have a small hide I can toss in there from the kit but didn't think it would use it based on my reading so left it out.

On another note, Petco looks like they have a pretty good sale going on. Went ahead and got the Exo Terra Small Low for later. Debating grabbing a couple more or a medium low as well.
 

Trenor

Arachnoprince
Joined
Jan 28, 2016
Messages
1,899
Mine hasn't been on the ground since I put it in this new enclosure several weeks ago. It's webbed a lot more since I took this photo and has been staying up high.
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
Staff member
Joined
Mar 7, 2012
Messages
3,825
Thanks everyone, I have a small hide I can toss in there from the kit but didn't think it would use it based on my reading so left it out.
It might not go into a hide, but it won't hurt to provide one. (They might just use it as additional anchor points for webbing.)
 

PanzoN88

Arachnodemon
Joined
Sep 15, 2014
Messages
693
Thanks everyone, I have a small hide I can toss in there from the kit but didn't think it would use it based on my reading so left it out.

On another note, Petco looks like they have a pretty good sale going on. Went ahead and got the Exo Terra Small Low for later. Debating grabbing a couple more or a medium low as well.
Not all GBBs are constantly visible, my big girl rarely comes out to show off. I think I have only caught her out of her hide four or five times in the past three months. Either way, this species is definitely interesting
 

johnny quango

Arachnoknight
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
262
Thanks everyone, I have a small hide I can toss in there from the kit but didn't think it would use it based on my reading so left it out.

On another note, Petco looks like they have a pretty good sale going on. Went ahead and got the Exo Terra Small Low for later. Debating grabbing a couple more or a medium low as well.
I keep my adult female Gbb in a large flat exo terra and she loves it, it gives her room to roam about and web like crazy which she does. I've also provided an hide,fake plants and a fake skull which I now hate but if I remove the skull it'll wreck her great work.
She never ever uses her hide as an hide she uses it as a vantage point for ambushing unsuspecting locus,crickets etc. They are a truly fascinating species to keep but some can be highly strung although saying that mine doesn't kick or threat pose me ever she's super tolerant and not just for a Gbb
 

MetalMan2004

Arachnodemon
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Messages
681
My 3.5" gbb stays on the ground mostly but has webbed him/ herself into a web enclosure and hasn't been out for a week or two. I'm just waitig for the molt.

I liked my first gbb so much i bought 3 more. All are 1.5" and all have spent their time up high since they arrived. It'll be interesting to see if that changes when they get bigger.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
11,539
Mine hasn't been on the ground since I put it in this new enclosure several weeks ago. It's webbed a lot more since I took this photo and has been staying up high.
Nice setup interesting info, pretty juvi. What are you using to keep the lid down? Looks like that Amazon find you posted the link for not long ago, right?
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
11,539
Just received the first T of my adult life this afternoon, a GBB from Jamie's. I fed it a tiny cricket that it enthusiastically captured. It's still working on it at the top of the fake plant which I am a bit worried about. It has already webbed up there and is hanging out with the cricket. When it is done eating this(tomorrow?) should I just remove the plant from the enclosure to reduce falling risk?



Here is a decent picture from when I first transferred it for scale:

Keep the plant as others said.

This is one of the few Ts that will engineer its enclosure all in web even w/out anchor points.

It will utilize anything you provide it, the more objects you provide the better off.

The challenge for you will be to keep its water dish free of webbing. They will web right over it.
 

Trenor

Arachnoprince
Joined
Jan 28, 2016
Messages
1,899
Nice setup interesting info, pretty juvi. What are you using to keep the lid down? Looks like that Amazon find you posted the link for not long ago, right?
I'm still looking for a usable clasp. The problem being the lift lip on the front of the enclosure hanging over the edge doesn't work with most clasps I've tried. Right now I am cheating using a cinch band on the end to keep them closed.
 

Jeff23

Arachnolord
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
621
I'm still looking for a usable clasp. The problem being the lift lip on the front of the enclosure hanging over the edge doesn't work with most clasps I've tried. Right now I am cheating using a cinch band on the end to keep them closed.
I just bought a four pack of these enclosures in deep style. I still need to figure out how I will mod them. Since they are deep and tall I am still debating over whether I use arboreal or terrestrial configuration.

One Idea on Clasp:
Obtain the following: Small block of plastic (1/2"x1/2"x1/4" thick or larger - must be thick enough to thread with tap), glue, plastic screw (screw needs to be longer than thickness of plastic block plus lid), wing nut or clamping device.
You will also need a drill bit and matching tap that matches the thread size for the plastic screw.
Drill a hole through the center of the plastic block and thread it with tap. Insert matching screw for the threads. Glue this block with screw sticking up out of enclosure. It should be placed so that it is snug to the lid when closed. Put a matching hole in the lid for the screw to fit through. You can now use a wing nut or something to strongly clamp the screw. If you use a wing nut you may want to cut the screw with a screw cutter so that it has just enough available threads to function without be a time consuming process.

I saw plastic screws and wing nuts at home depot but I can't remember the available lengths.
 
Last edited:

Trenor

Arachnoprince
Joined
Jan 28, 2016
Messages
1,899
I just bought a four pack of these enclosures in deep style. I still need to figure out how I will mod them. Since they are deep and tall I am still debating over whether I use arboreal or terrestrial configuration.

One Idea on Clasp:
Obtain the following: Small block of plastic (1/2"x1/2"x1/4" thick or larger - must be thick enough to thread with tap), glue, plastic screw (screw needs to be longer than thickness of plastic block plus lid), wing nut or clamping device.
You will also need a drill bit and matching tap that matches the thread size for the plastic screw.
Drill a hole through the center of the plastic block and thread it with tap. Insert matching screw for the threads. Glue this block with screw sticking up out of enclosure. It should be placed so that it is snug to the lid when closed. Put a matching hole in the lid for the screw to fit through. You can now use a wing nut or something to strongly clamp the screw. If you use a wing nut you may want to cut the screw with a screw cutter so that it has just enough available threads to function without be a time consuming process.
I've thought of gluing a block to level out the clasp with the lip but I've not done anything with it yet. The cinch cord works ok for now till I can cut some stuff.

I usually use the deeper ones for arboreal setups (standing on it's end) and the shorter ones for terrestrials. I cut the lid in two places and reworked it to make a front opening arboreal enclosure.


The one in the photo is a deep box I decided to use and see what happens with the sticks. It has a hide below that the T never used and lots of sticks running along the enclosure. the junvi male seems to like his higher web hammock and has always been high whenever I've looked in on him.
 

Jeff23

Arachnolord
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
621
I've thought of gluing a block to level out the clasp with the lip but I've not done anything with it yet. The cinch cord works ok for now till I can cut some stuff.

I usually use the deeper ones for arboreal setups (standing on it's end) and the shorter ones for terrestrials. I cut the lid in two places and reworked it to make a front opening arboreal enclosure.


The one in the photo is a deep box I decided to use and see what happens with the sticks. It has a hide below that the T never used and lots of sticks running along the enclosure. the junvi male seems to like his higher web hammock and has always been high whenever I've looked in on him.
I like this style box much better than AMAC's. I have some Hobby Lobby boxes too, but they aren't deep like this which is a huge plus when putting a cork bark in there. The other problem I had with AMAC's was that the width of the box required the cork bark be flush with the back wall (no lean). This meant that I had to smooth out the back of the cork bark before gluing it in the box. Otherwise the T or crickets would hide back there creating maintenance / husbandry / presentation issues.
 

Trenor

Arachnoprince
Joined
Jan 28, 2016
Messages
1,899
I like this style box much better than AMAC's. I have some Hobby Lobby boxes too, but they aren't deep like this which is a huge plus when putting a cork bark in there. The other problem I had with AMAC's was that the width of the box required the cork bark be flush with the back wall (no lean). This meant that I had to smooth out the back of the cork bark before gluing it in the box. Otherwise the T or crickets would hide back there creating maintenance / husbandry / presentation issues.
It depends on the specie of arboreal T going in. I like the leaning corkbark for a lot of the arboreal Ts. It gives them a nice pocket to make a dirt curtain/hide spot if they want. I only use raw cork flats for leaning backdrops. If it's a species that I want to have a flush back I use a cork sheet that has been shaved to be flat and I cut it to fit the back wall.

I've not had any issues with my roaches (crushed heads) getting anywhere they didn't belong. Crickets might be different though.

What husbandry do you need to do that is affected by the Ts being in a crack behind the cork? I had a P.irminia sling that passed 4 molts using a hollow between the cork and the plastic as a safe hide spot. Once it was too big to hide there it expanded it's web funnel and move out into more of the enclosure.

As far as display goes, I'd rather my T to feel secure/safe than worry about how it displays. Still, I see mine out all the time even with non flush backdrops. The above P.irminia was out most nights and was pretty easy to view.
 

Jeff23

Arachnolord
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
621
It depends on the specie of arboreal T going in. I like the leaning corkbark for a lot of the arboreal Ts. It gives them a nice pocket to make a dirt curtain/hide spot if they want. I only use raw cork flats for leaning backdrops. If it's a species that I want to have a flush back I use a cork sheet that has been shaved to be flat and I cut it to fit the back wall.

I've not had any issues with my roaches (crushed heads) getting anywhere they didn't belong. Crickets might be different though.

What husbandry do you need to do that is affected by the Ts being in a crack behind the cork? I had a P.irminia sling that passed 4 molts using a hollow between the cork and the plastic as a safe hide spot. Once it was too big to hide there it expanded it's web funnel and move out into more of the enclosure.

As far as display goes, I'd rather my T to feel secure/safe than worry about how it displays. Still, I see mine out all the time even with non flush backdrops. The above P.irminia was out most nights and was pretty easy to view.
Some of the cork bark flats I received in the kits from Jamie were pretty thick and most of them are curved to an extent. While it is fine that the Avic can hide back there, it presents an even bigger problem of having a hole so that you can insert water when they refuse to leave their hide in AMAC's. I feel I can provide plenty of security for the T and a nice display without allowing access to that area. I am not denying the T of anything since I always insert plastic plants, etc to give hiding spots in front of the cork bark. Most of my setups in other containers including the large arboreal enclosures from Jamie have an angled cork bark where it is okay for the Avic, Tapi, Psalm, etc. to go behind it because they have plenty of depth in these enclosures.

I like to remove crickets when they go uneaten by the T due to molt possibilities. It is almost impossible to access the crickets when they crawl up behind a vertical (not angled) cork bark. Since most people crush the head on dubia I suspect they are less of an issue.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
11,539
I'm still looking for a usable clasp. The problem being the lift lip on the front of the enclosure hanging over the edge doesn't work with most clasps I've tried. Right now I am cheating using a cinch band on the end to keep them closed.
What's the specific issue that prevents a hasp from working? Those containers seem to be pretty decent in terms of size etc
 
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