I'm keeping all of that in mind. The T bug hit me! =)That's awesome! Hope he keeps getting better just remember to make sure he's got plenty of water in his dish
As far as G. Pulchripes and B. Smithi, both great beginner species, especially the pulchripes. As @viper69 mentioned @cold blood has some pulchripes slings for sale cheap, and he's a great breeder
?? I dunno. Yeah I kinda thought the same thing.....
Op, literally everything you think you know about ts, and this t, is wrong...start over my friend. These are good starting points.
No, no, no, don't say that! None of us think you're a horrid person. You were just misinformed, as many, many of us were too. Don't be too hard on yourself.Also I wanted to say I'm sorry to anyone that thinks I'm a horrid person. I know a lot of you work hard to keep your Ts healthy and happy and I'm sure it hurts your heart to hear things I am doing wrong or have done wrong. I did so much research before I got him but appardently either not enough or the right kind. I wish I had found this site before I got him.
Walking is a very good sign. If you're really going to use a heat mat, use it on the side of the enclosure, not on the bottom. He doesn't look like he needs water as his abdomen isn't shriveled. I would cover the enclosure with a blanket or put it somewhere dark so he can recover in peace. If he makes it to the next molt, I would think that he should be able to molt out of it. Good luck, and none of this was your fault.Update: Still alive, very dormant. Very wobbly when walking, can't tell if from mangled limbs or if displaying signs of DKS. He seems to like to coco fiber substrate a lot better though. Probably better footing since he's so deformed. He found the hide and has dragged dirt to partially cover the opening to be alone and in the dark. Do they hide to die? He's still looking very scraggly and wet. Humidity is way down in there, but I have the heat mat on the lowest setting for some warmth because the boyfriend likes it super cold in the house, so I'm not sure if he's leaking fluid or just slow to recover or it's still too humid. At this point, I figured he would have at least fluffed up. His fangs are very bloody still but most of it looks dried. Attempted a manual water drip yesterday since he's avoiding his water dish like the plague but he wanted nothing to do with it. Tried a paint brush, a straw, and an eye dropper. He displayed the best warning sign he could with his deformed legs but never struck any of the items. Otherwise, complete uninterest in the water. Does this mean he's at his end? He's also so much smaller than he was before he molted. Why is that? I thought a molt meant he outgrew his exo. Also, if he makes it, can he have a successful molt next time around and emerge fresh and new or is his next molt going to be difficult and probably result in his death? I don't have the expertise to aide in a molt and I don't know anyone else that does either.
I feel like a terrible T-Mom. Someone tell me I'm not if I'm not. And tell me I am if I am so I can drop this hobby before I hurt any other poor animals.
I wonder why they look crusty with a red liquid then. Thanks for the tip though.Its not bloody fangs...ts don't even have red blood. When a t molts, initially its fangs are white, then they turn red, for days or weeks, then finally, when they are hardened up, they turn black.
That is the mouthpart. It looks like a red and orange patch right after they molted.I wonder why they look crusty with a red liqhd then. Thanks for the tip though.
I just changed the setup completely. If he's not a rosea then what am I dealing with here. Also, what is a wet molt.Okay first it's not a rosea, second Teepete it's not your fault. Second yes your set up does need major adjustments. Your tarantula had a wet molt which it's going to die can't do nothing about it. A few months ago I had a northern type that had a wet molt. This species are coming in wild caught and really rough. It's unfortunate that your northern type tarantula had to go through this but it can happen.
Get a new tarantula and if you get another wild caught tarantula ask the seller if it is a long captive raised tarantula.
As for myself I will not hesitate to get a fresh wild caught tarantula but for you I suggest you stay away from them until you feel more comfortable of raising a wild caught tarantula.
The cause of a wet molt I have the slightest clue of why they have them. It's been a long time that I had one with a wet molt. I know that with the northern type it has been a little difficult for me to keep four of them alive one that had a wet molt as I mentioned above and the other three died of starvation. They were eating at first and later refused food. To top it off I also had a few of them that were loosing weight rapidly. The set ups were simple as usual vermiculite, hide out and water dish. But after having those loses I felt that I had to change their set ups. So now I have them on white silica sand, his out and water dish. My northern type bounced back eating better and gaining weight.
I can only tell you what I've observed and what I did to have my northern type tarantulas bounce back to health. I know that's not what is in question here but just thought I share.
Wet molts are extremely bad news for a tarantula.
He's correct in that it's not a G. Rosea. It's a Grammostola sp. "Northern Gold". Basically imports on G. rosea and G. Porteri (and many other Chilean t's) have been restricted/banned so stores are now carrying the northern type plus a few others as most stores have no idea how to differentiate and they just label everything "Rose hair". A wet molt is basically a failed molt.I just changed the setup completely. If he's not a rosea then what am I dealing with here. Also, what is a wet molt.
What you're saying differs exponentially from what everyone else has said so now I'm really confused.