- Joined
- Jul 23, 2016
- Messages
- 1,652
Ironically, when I got my first millipede (after a 20-year hiatus keeping invertebrates) I searched online for care information. To my distress, the majority of what I found was how to kill millipedes, mostly from our leading pest control circles. I constantly strive to provide better care for my amply footed friends. But sometimes with our best intentions, we fall way short of the mark. Like way on the opposite side.
- A DROP or accidental fall is almost always fatal. A millipede is designed with legs that climb, dig, hold, grasp, etc., but sometimes even 500 legs can fail when they are in your hands. If you must hold your millipede (and please do!) just make sure it has a substantial grip on you and never hold it above a hard surface or more than a foot or so above anything. Watch how it’s legs move – it is mesmerizing it can keep track of that many legs. I can’t seem to keep two in order sometimes.
- DIGGING accident – I’m not talking about when the millipede digs; I am talking about when you dig. Your millipede will disappear. You won’t see it for days and maybe weeks. I lost one for a few months once. (She was busy laying eggs.) Whatever it is doing in the subterrain, is something it needs to do without your help. Most likely it is molting or laying eggs. When a millipede molts, its body is super soft and can be easily damaged. Your touch cannot be gentle enough against this little Jell-O body. Give it time. But what if it died? That’s part of living, we need to accept it, but we cannot bring it back to life so digging is futile. If you have the urge to dig, go shopping. Go eat some ice cream. Go play Free Cell. Don’t dig. Just don’t do it. Having several millipedes holds a better chance you will see some on the surface.
- DESSICATION – a screen top is not a millipede friendly cover. Most species of millipede need 80% humidity or even higher. This is easy to accomplish with a moist substrate or by misting the enclosure a few times a week. (Make sure the bottom layer of substrate does not become saturated.) Temperature is also important and can be a point of confusion. Even tropical species prefer temperatures under 80˚. Below ground is cooler than above ground – think of a root cellar or basement. These millipedes come from areas with a forest cover (super shade) and are under ground, so much cooler. The ground also holds moisture, which is also cooling.
- Introducing UNWANTED PESTS – I know there are pros and cons to both sides of this issue. I used to collect soil, leaves and wood outside for my isopods. The last time I cleaned their enclosures I found all sorts of undesirables. Now I use the sterilized stuff for them, too. Once I mix a batch of substrate (all ingredients have been baked) I let it sit for about a month. During this time, I stir it to keep anaerobic bacteria from growing. I watch it closely to make sure nothing lived through my oven. When I do finally use it, I add springtails and they start the process of balancing the substrate. No matter which path you choose, there is a process of balancing the substrate. But the path that eliminates outdoor pests is more appealing to me. If you choose to gather things out doors, be super careful not to include ants, beetles, slugs, earthworms, isopods, etc., etc., etc.
- STARVATION – you may not think this would be a problem for “dirt-eaters”. But “dirt” has many components such as rotting wood and leaves. Coir (coconut fiber) offers no nutritional value and some people believe it could even be detrimental if ingested. Most experts say at least 50% of the substrate should be edible (rotting wood and leaf litter). The wood should be soft and crumbly, never black. If there are other invertebrates living in it, it should be fine. The leaf litter should be at least a season old. Most millipedes love cucumbers, apples, mushrooms, mangoes, corn, etc. but these foods should be considered treats or supplements. Their primary diet should be the substrate.
Last edited by a moderator:
