Dynastes tityus larvae care?

[mercury]

Hello! I want to get either a Dynastes tityus or Dynastes granti larvae from Bugs in Cyberspace. I'm leaning a bit more toward the Dynastes tityus because they seem to live longer as beetles and are soo attractive. It says they are available as L1 or L2 larvae. How do I care for them in that stage? What I've been reading says to keep them in a small container filled with decaying hardwood (can I collect this from the woods near my house? I don't know if it's treated with pesticides...) and to keep the substrate moist. I have a mini kritter keeper that's empty right now - could that be an appropriate container for the larvae stages and what are some other container options if I want to get multiple? Is there anything I should be careful of as far as temperature? I live in an upstairs room with minimal air conditioning so it can get kind of hot as it gets warmer outside. Are there any tips to ensure they grow up large and healthy or things to look out for (like do they move around a lot as grubs, should I expect to not see it often and not check on it, should I avoid handling, etc)
Also I think I would want to breed them once it's an adult - should I just get one larvae now to see how things go or get a few and breed when they're adults?
Thank you in advance!

 

[chanda]

I have Dynastes grantii larvae (from wild-caught adults that I collected almost three years ago) that should be maturing later this year.

I have them in large latching plastic tubs (something along these lines: https://www.amazon.com/SteriliteÂ-Gal-Latching-Storage-Clear/dp/B00NZFOAWG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1) with ventilation holes drilled in the sides and top. The tub is filled almost to the top with a mix of dirt, decaying hardwood, and decaying leaves. The dirt was just topsoil (no added fertilizers or chemicals) from my local garden store and the wood and leaves were collected in the same area where I collected the adult beetles. I add water to the dirt maybe once a month or so (check first - it should be slightly moist, but not muddy or soggy). I also have larger pieces of wood on top of the soil that they will come up to feed on. They really like oak! I had a split chunk of oak log that a friend gave me, and they've eaten a significant portion of it. From my understanding, it does need to be hardwood (oak, maple, etc.) and not conifer wood (pine, spruce, fir, etc.) When the grubs are smaller, they eat the bits of wood and wood mulch that are mixed in with the soil - but as they get bigger (and develop larger, stronger jaws) they do more feeding at the surface from the big chunks of wood.

It's better to have them in a larger container because they eat (and poop) quite a bit, so if they were in a small container, you'd have to be changing and replenishing the dirt pretty often. As it is, I haven't really had to do much of anything with mine except scoop off fecal pellets from the surface and add new pieces of wood to the surface as the old ones are eaten. I'd rather have them in the larger tub so you don't have to disturb them as often. Also, the large, closed tub helps maintain the moisture in the soil. With the big tub, I can maintain a moisture gradient (I usually add water to only one end of the tub) so the grubs can find the level of moisture they like best by going from one end to the other or by digging down or coming to the surface. In a smaller container like a critter keeper, the moisture level is likely to be pretty much all the same throughout the container - and because the container is so small and well-ventilated, it will be more prone to drying out quickly.

While they can tolerate a little disturbance and handling, I figure it's best to minimize both so they can grow up fat and healthy and are not stressed from too much interaction.

When they start getting ready to pupate, it's important that they have plenty of space - especially if you have multiples. You don't want a pupating grub to be disturbed by a hungry sibling that's digging around looking for food. Even though mine are all roughly the same age, they can mature at different rates. Some are bigger than others - and I even had one precocious little female that matured last summer, rather than sticking out the full three years like her siblings.

As far as temperature goes, they do just fine at room temperature. I go by the rule of thumb that if I'm comfortable, my pets are, too.

The idea of breeding them is certainly an attractive one, and I'm hoping to do that with mine once they hatch out - but when you're buying L1 and L2 larvae, you can't count on being able to breed them. Aside from the possibility of ending up with all males or all females, or having some die on you before they mature, there is no guarantee that they will all mature at the same time. It typically takes around 2-3 years for the larvae to mature, but you could end up with some deciding to mature at two years, while others go the full three - or even a bit more. Even if they mature within the same year, their adult lives are pretty short, so they could still miss each other, with your male maturing first, for example, and then dying just before your females emerge - or vice versa.

If you are really interested in them - and the price is right - sure, go ahead and get multiple larvae - but keep in mind that you might not get the opportunity to breed them. (Even if you aren't able to breed them, having multiples increases the chance of having some survive to adulthood - and the chance of getting both males and females, since they make a really cool addition to a pinned insect collection after they have died.)

 

[Ratmosphere]

You could raise them in tubs as Chanda says. Also organic potting soil and dead leaves work to feed them. Sometimes it produces small males. I ferment sawdust for all my species of beetles. After the batch is done I mix a SMALL amount of organic potting soil and leaves into the sub. Heres a tutorial I made on how to ferment wood pellets!

 

[Rique]

Chanda, do you have a few you would part with that I can buy from you?

I’m also reading a large number of tityus and granti in the hopes of pairing them. It’s a beautiful hobby and I am also looking to perfect this generation after generation, as they do in Japan...

 

[mantisfan101]

Chanda, do you have a few you would part with that I can buy from you?

I’m also reading a large number of tityus and granti in the hopes of pairing them. It’s a beautiful hobby and I am also looking to perfect this generation after generation, as they do in Japan...

Lucky for you that you have that many...somehow all 4 of my tityus emerged as males. I don't really know what to do with them at this point since the season's over to look for any females and I can't find anyone that's selling any females.

 

[Rique]

I’m glad to hear from you! However not so lucky for me at the moment. I the long-run? Yes! At the moment, not so much...because I need a female. I have 1 male in pupation and another one several days emerged. Keep them for now.

I have a number of granti and tityus in mid-to-late L3. I have 2 approximating pre-pupa but still a month out, and until then...it’s just a waiting scenario.

I agree with Chanda on the difficulty to attain a pairing from larvae. This year I tried to anticipate this by increasing probability by numbers, and 4 genetic sources. Fingers crossed!

I will tell you that I proved the techniques of a Japanese breeder correct. So, this certain breeder had suggested on a forum, that if substrate consisted of pure leaf, duration of development could be shortened by as much as 50%...in my estimations by 75%! I feed all of them rotten oak and bamboo leaves, and they eat it all...and they still attain optimum weights. So there is much truth in this.

Anyway...the point being that I hope to get a pairing before autumn ends. But like Chanda says, they don’t always enter pupation before winter. And so it’s sketchy with the bulk of my stock in mid-to-late L3. Maybe we can exchange stock later. That would be great for me! And you too.

Please share your thoughts. I really want to master the art of breeding them with success like Ambuehl, McMonigle, Kin, and like many Japanese breeders. I’m 3 years into this fascinating hobby and trying hard to get things just right! It isn’t easy though!

 

[Rique]

PS - thank you for offering, keep them for now. If I get females, I can send one or more to you when the time comes! And you can send me larvae when they reach mid L1 or so...

 

[mantisfan101]

I’m glad to hear from you! However not so lucky for me at the moment. I the long-run? Yes! At the moment, not so much...because I need a female. I have 1 male in pupation and another one several days emerged. Keep them for now.

I have a number of granti and tityus in mid-to-late L3. I have 2 approximating pre-pupa but still a month out, and until then...it’s just a waiting scenario.

I agree with Chanda on the difficulty to attain a pairing from larvae. This year I tried to anticipate this by increasing probability by numbers, and 4 genetic sources. Fingers crossed!

I will tell you that I proved the techniques of a Japanese breeder correct. So, this certain breeder had suggested on a forum, that if substrate consisted of pure leaf, duration of development could be shortened by as much as 50%...in my estimations by 75%! I feed all of them rotten oak and bamboo leaves, and they eat it all...and they still attain optimum weights. So there is much truth in this.

Anyway...the point being that I hope to get a pairing before autumn ends. But like Chanda says, they don’t always enter pupation before winter. And so it’s sketchy with the bulk of my stock in mid-to-late L3. Maybe we can exchange stock later. That would be great for me! And you too.

Please share your thoughts. I really want to master the art of breeding them with success like Ambuehl, McMonigle, Kin, and like many Japanese breeders. I’m 3 years into this fascinating hobby and trying hard to get things just right! It isn’t easy though!

If your substrate was good quality then they should pupate rather soon, although they spend the most amount of time in L3. My larvae stayed in L3 for an entire year(!) before they decided to even start working on a pupal chamber.

 

[Rique]

If your substrate was good quality then they should pupate rather soon, although they spend the most amount of time in L3. My larvae stayed in L3 for an entire year(!) before they decided to even start working on a pupal chamber.

I agree with you. And it’s already nearly September. The caveat being the warmer temperatures far into at least mid-October. But they could also all overwinter in L3...oh well. As long as I get successful pairings, so be it. I have at least 3 pre-pupae L3. Hopefully something works out with those.