DIY backdrops, what do you use?

gizmosdeath

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
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20
I would say that the only prob you have to watch out for following the dendroboards is the fact that those guys need really high humidity for dart frogs as where we don't. So those guys go all out with misting systems and all. You just need to keep in mind that mites love that kind of enclosure. if you can get a half way decent ecosystem going in your tank though it should be ok.
 

Thistles

Arachnobroad
Old Timer
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Mar 21, 2012
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As others have said, Dendroboards is a great resource. I kept frogs before keeping Ts, and some of my old habits have indeed died hard. I make backgrounds for all my arboreals, and I mostly use Gorilla Glue. I put the glue directly onto the back of the tank then add the substrate. I usually use a mix of materials to add interest rather than just straight coco coir. With frogs I made clay backgrounds, but those don't work for Ts. I have used silicone before, but I like the foaming and expansion of the Gorilla Glue. It's not as extreme as the Great Stuff, which lets me use it in smaller tanks.
 

gizmosdeath

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
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20
Good to know about the gorilla glue. I was curious about that but gorilla glue isn't cheap so doubt I'll be making one anytime soon.
 

MatthewM1

Arachnoknight
Joined
Apr 27, 2013
Messages
245
Frogforum is another good resource for stuff like this, lots of talented tree frog and dart frog keepers with some awesome builds.

Also GE makes a spray foam similar to great stuff. It was cheaper at the Walmart near me and also worked better Imo. Seemed to cure faster with less shrinkage.

Sent from my LG-P930 using Tapatalk 2
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
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Dec 8, 2006
Messages
18,731
As others have said, Dendroboards is a great resource. I kept frogs before keeping Ts, and some of my old habits have indeed died hard. I make backgrounds for all my arboreals, and I mostly use Gorilla Glue. I put the glue directly onto the back of the tank then add the substrate. I usually use a mix of materials to add interest rather than just straight coco coir. With frogs I made clay backgrounds, but those don't work for Ts. I have used silicone before, but I like the foaming and expansion of the Gorilla Glue. It's not as extreme as the Great Stuff, which lets me use it in smaller tanks.
Do you have in pics of your frog setups? Esp in series from beginning to end?
 

PlaidJaguar

Arachnoknight
Joined
Aug 9, 2013
Messages
243
Anybody ever make a removable backdrop? Or install one into an inhabited tank?

My A. geroldi is in a half-moon enclosure with a large chunk of driftwood hot-glued in and some plastic leaves attached here & there. (I didn't know how to do a backdrop like these) Now that she's in it I think she might prefer some traction on the backdrop, but I don't want to leave her homeless for days while I fix up her tank.
 

gizmosdeath

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
20
Anybody ever make a removable backdrop? Or install one into an inhabited tank?

My A. geroldi is in a half-moon enclosure with a large chunk of driftwood hot-glued in and some plastic leaves attached here & there. (I didn't know how to do a backdrop like these) Now that she's in it I think she might prefer some traction on the backdrop, but I don't want to leave her homeless for days while I fix up her tank.
I have never done one but I have seen them done. All you have to do is get an inch thick piece of styro and use that as your palette. Then just cut it to the size that you need and build onto it. Or you could get a couple larger styro blocks and then just carve out the background to what you want. After that paint it or cover it in coco fiber and your done. If you do a search on Google you can get a ton of ideas and there are even a few youtube videos that were halfway decent.
 

persistent

Arachnopeon
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
45
wanted to share how I do most of my backdrops :) they're quick, easy, non-toxic, cheap and very good looking compared to the effort to make them.


- I take a piece of polystyreen insulation board and cut it to the appropriate size for the background.
- I then take a knife and start carving a rocky or bark like texture in it. It is actually quite easy to get a nice looking texture without much effort or skill.
- Once the texture is done we can start painting. I usually start with a black or dark grey/brown undercoat and work my way up from there using lighter colours with each layer (usually between 3-6). This is also much easier than it looks at first glance and does not require any skill. Just look up the term "dry brushing paint" on google and you'll immediatly find lots and lots of tutorials on how to do this. It's super easy and very effective.
- I often add a little bit of very fine sand to my paint to make the texture slightly more rough for better grip and to make it less shiny (some brands of acrylic paint tend to be more shiny than others)
- optionally you can cover it in a couple of layers of non-toxic varnish. This is another step you could add some fine sand for the same reasons as mentioned above. This may help if you're building a more humid envirnment but will increase time dramatically because of drying time.
- optionally you could also add some moss, fake plants etc.

If you use water based, quick drying, acrylic paint you could make one in a couple of hours. Don't forget to let it dry out for a few days if you chose to add a layer of varnish.

here's two examples of very simple rocky backgrounds made in this manner.



 

gizmosdeath

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
20
Outstanding background man. I like the texture allot. Would look really good painted like tree bark. I'll have to to that.
 

Thistles

Arachnobroad
Old Timer
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
624
Do you have in pics of your frog setups? Esp in series from beginning to end?
I don't have many. The computer that had the pics on it is dead and I didn't upload many. Again, all my frog tanks had clay backgrounds, but they're amaaaazing. I can look around and PM you some if I find any.
 

persistent

Arachnopeon
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
45
thats sick dude! what brand of paint are you using?
I use a cheap dutch brand for my basecoats (black and brown) and white (when mixing) called Van Eyck. It has an irritating sheen though, which is why I use some fine sand to break up the light reflecting of it. And I use better paint on top of that :)
The rest of the colours I use come from my Citadel paint range. These are extremely expensive though (currently €3,20 for 12ml. But I only need a tiny little bit though) which I usually use for painting miniatures.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
18,731
wanted to share how I do most of my backdrops :) they're quick, easy, non-toxic, cheap and very good looking compared to the effort to make them.


- I take a piece of polystyreen insulation board and cut it to the appropriate size for the background.
- I then take a knife and start carving a rocky or bark like texture in it. It is actually quite easy to get a nice looking texture without much effort or skill.
- Once the texture is done we can start painting. I usually start with a black or dark grey/brown undercoat and work my way up from there using lighter colours with each layer (usually between 3-6). This is also much easier than it looks at first glance and does not require any skill. Just look up the term "dry brushing paint" on google and you'll immediatly find lots and lots of tutorials on how to do this. It's super easy and very effective.
- I often add a little bit of very fine sand to my paint to make the texture slightly more rough for better grip and to make it less shiny (some brands of acrylic paint tend to be more shiny than others)
- optionally you can cover it in a couple of layers of non-toxic varnish. This is another step you could add some fine sand for the same reasons as mentioned above. This may help if you're building a more humid envirnment but will increase time dramatically because of drying time.
- optionally you could also add some moss, fake plants etc.

If you use water based, quick drying, acrylic paint you could make one in a couple of hours. Don't forget to let it dry out for a few days if you chose to add a layer of varnish.
Those are really cool looking, thanks. I'm curious isn't polystrene a bit porous though? I ask because I'm wondering how much paint you have to use on it the first time as the paint would have to sink into the backing? Second, was that 3-6 layers of paint per layer you wrote? Those look really nice. The sand is a good idea, I hadn't thought of that.
 

gizmosdeath

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
20
I use a cheap dutch brand for my basecoats (black and brown) and white (when mixing) called Van Eyck. It has an irritating sheen though, which is why I use some fine sand to break up the light reflecting of it. And I use better paint on top of that :)
The rest of the colours I use come from my Citadel paint range. These are extremely expensive though (currently €3,20 for 12ml. But I only need a tiny little bit though) which I usually use for painting miniatures.
I have thought about using my citadel paints but they are way too expensive and I usually have large areas to cover. Besides my Ogre army would never get painted if I used it all lol.
 

PlaidJaguar

Arachnoknight
Joined
Aug 9, 2013
Messages
243
Persistent, that backdrop is amazing! And the technique sounds easy enough for me to try. Thanks a bunch! *runs off to build a backdrop*
 

josh_r

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
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Jan 18, 2008
Messages
1,131
Gorilla glue is the best thing I have used to adhere substrate to fake backgrounds. It is expensive, but a little goes a long way, so once you figure out how to get the most out of every bottle... it will go a long way. After years of spending so much money on building false backgrounds, I started abandoning it and just siliconing a piece of egg crate to the back of mt setups and mix up a good batch of loamy clay with a little humus mixed in and pack that into the egg crate and around any rock or wood pieces in place. You would be surprised how strong it can hold once packed into place. It looks great and grows plants great, holds moisture longer. I just go sick of spending all the money.

Here are a few setups I did with nothing but egg crate and clay. No foam, no glue, no fake rocks... all cheap builds. I even built all the aquariums out of salvaged glass from a greenhouse that got torn down.








Here are the first 3 aquariums before they were planted.... Not at all showy or flashy, but when all of your hardwork is just going to get covered in plants anyway, after a while, you just don't even bother anymore. Simple is easier, cheaper, and ends in the same results... plants, animals in a glass box.


JOsh
 
Last edited:

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
18,731
Those are gorgeous. I heard of eggcrate used this way from an greenhouse that grows orchids, the simpler is better concept. Good point esp if it's going to be covered. For the desert terria the false background people build are great. Lots of ideas now.
 

persistent

Arachnopeon
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
45
Those are really cool looking, thanks. I'm curious isn't polystrene a bit porous though? I ask because I'm wondering how much paint you have to use on it the first time as the paint would have to sink into the backing? Second, was that 3-6 layers of paint per layer you wrote? Those look really nice. The sand is a good idea, I hadn't thought of that.
I'm using extruded polystyreen. This has a larger density than expanded polystyreen (the one with the large "grains") and is not very porous at all. Never felt like it was a problem (I even think normal polystyreen wouldn't be too much of a problem). My Basecoat may take 2 or 3 layers to cover but that's quite normal for most surfaces. After that I usually only need one layer per colour (it will also depend on the amount of pigment in the paint ofcourse).



I have thought about using my citadel paints but they are way too expensive and I usually have large areas to cover. Besides my Ogre army would never get painted if I used it all lol.
I use cheaper paint for the basecoats and layers that need a lot of paint. That's usually just the basecoat and maybe one more layer. After that I hardly need any paint to do the rest. You'll need less and less paint with every layer and I don't think I normally use more than half a ml per colour for a full background. A little goes a long way, especially when thinned. lol I still have pots of citadel paint which are over 12 years old and still only half empty. I just use them because I have lots of colours to chose from and only 3 basic colours from my cheap paints :) also they dry so much quicker and don't have an ugly sheen like the cheap paint.



Persistent, that backdrop is amazing! And the technique sounds easy enough for me to try. Thanks a bunch! *runs off to build a backdrop*
Good luck with that! It really isn't that hard :) you can always try and practice on a small piece of leftover polystyreen first when in doubt too ;) I do that when trying new techniques so I don't waste too much time and effort.
 
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