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OMG!! THREAD JACKER!!;P Nah, you're probably right, molt may be on the horizon. Good luck!
Climbing walls?
- Thread starter emily1123
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Yeah Isaac, it's an indicator but not concrete. I just go by feeding behavior, activity and appearance in that order. You can usually tell when a molt is somewhat near but if you can't see their shiny black buttskin then it's all guesswork to a certain degree.
If they stop taking food assume that a molt is probably coming up and pay attention to the secondary indicators. It helps to feed roaches instead if crix because roaches aren't known to chow down on a gummy T like crix will.
If they stop taking food assume that a molt is probably coming up and pay attention to the secondary indicators. It helps to feed roaches instead if crix because roaches aren't known to chow down on a gummy T like crix will.
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Yea she has a pretty good sized bald spot.. is that her inside body peeking out?
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And if you head pinch them, things are even more safe!
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Not sure what you mean. On the bald spot, you will see light colored skin if they don't need a molt, but if they are in pre-molt, they skin will turn dark and yes, that is the new skin underneath the old that you are seeing
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Surface might just be too slick.. if its smooth plastic mine have trouble too... if its class they normally don't. I have no idea.
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Either the surface is too smooth or she has a molt coming up. T's near or in premolt lose some of the adhesion on their scopulae (foot hairs that grip stuff)
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Here's a concept for you all to wrap your minds around:
In nature, terrestrial (aka burrowing) tarantulas live in a burrow. (No rocket science here!) Of their very nature, these burrows are mostly vertical surface. The only horizontal or semi-horizontal surfaces are a little floor at the bottom and the great wide world outside. Hence, in nature a burrowing tarantula spends perhaps 90% of its time on a vertical surface. [But, see note 1.]
Now consider arboreal tarantulas. They live on tree trunks and other vertical surfaces. The Avicularia, for instance, even build vertically oriented, tube-like nests. There are a few horizontal surfaces available though, the tops of tree branches for instance. But again, 90% of their world is vertical surface; and they probably spend 90% of their time hanging from some vertical surface.
For wild tarantulas, vertical is normal. HANGING FROM THE WALLS IS NORMAL! Placing them in a wide, flat cage puts them in a decidedly foreign environment, and it takes a while for some wild caught tarantulas to adjust to this strange, new geometry. Habit tells them to hang from the walls. Common sense, hunger, and thirst tell them to go down to the flat floor for food, water, and in some cases shelter.
So, perhaps we shouldn't be quite so concerned about a tarantula that hangs from the glass walls; and maybe we should be borderline hysterical about one that spends a lot of time on the flat floor!
Food for thought! Comments anybody?
[Note 1: I notice a trend among the non-desert species, especially those from extremely rainy habitats, to build their burrows more or less horizontally, at least near the entrance. I presume this is to help prevent being flooded out during a tropical downpour. Some significant exceptions to this are those tarantulas that build collars or funnels around the mouths of vertical burrows (e.g., H. lividum, the cobalt blue tarantula). My hypothesis is that these are merely another strategy to prevent flooding.
In nature, terrestrial (aka burrowing) tarantulas live in a burrow. (No rocket science here!) Of their very nature, these burrows are mostly vertical surface. The only horizontal or semi-horizontal surfaces are a little floor at the bottom and the great wide world outside. Hence, in nature a burrowing tarantula spends perhaps 90% of its time on a vertical surface. [But, see note 1.]
Now consider arboreal tarantulas. They live on tree trunks and other vertical surfaces. The Avicularia, for instance, even build vertically oriented, tube-like nests. There are a few horizontal surfaces available though, the tops of tree branches for instance. But again, 90% of their world is vertical surface; and they probably spend 90% of their time hanging from some vertical surface.
For wild tarantulas, vertical is normal. HANGING FROM THE WALLS IS NORMAL! Placing them in a wide, flat cage puts them in a decidedly foreign environment, and it takes a while for some wild caught tarantulas to adjust to this strange, new geometry. Habit tells them to hang from the walls. Common sense, hunger, and thirst tell them to go down to the flat floor for food, water, and in some cases shelter.
So, perhaps we shouldn't be quite so concerned about a tarantula that hangs from the glass walls; and maybe we should be borderline hysterical about one that spends a lot of time on the flat floor!
Food for thought! Comments anybody?
[Note 1: I notice a trend among the non-desert species, especially those from extremely rainy habitats, to build their burrows more or less horizontally, at least near the entrance. I presume this is to help prevent being flooded out during a tropical downpour. Some significant exceptions to this are those tarantulas that build collars or funnels around the mouths of vertical burrows (e.g., H. lividum, the cobalt blue tarantula). My hypothesis is that these are merely another strategy to prevent flooding.
After reading everything I think you have some good answers about why it can't grip - now it is time for you to address the 'why is it climbing' problem.
Change that substrate to something recommended!
PIK: I think you're not entirely right. For aboreals vertical is normal. For my strictly terrestrial obligate burrowers hanging from the glass walls is most decidedly NOT normal.
Change that substrate to something recommended!
PIK: I think you're not entirely right. For aboreals vertical is normal. For my strictly terrestrial obligate burrowers hanging from the glass walls is most decidedly NOT normal.
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Emily, spiders don't like their environment being changed. Any time you switch their substrate they are likely to climb a lot for a week or two. So even if you now have good substrate in there (tho I think mixing some peat in would be better than just vermiculite) she will still try and climb until she is used to her environment. Give her a couple of weeks and if she is still refusing to hang out on the floor there might still be something bothering here.
As for why she can't climb very well, it could be that she is pre-molt, or it could just be she's not great at climbing. She's a terrestrial, they're not as good as arboreals. Depending on her size, she may be too big and heavy to climb easily (all my biggest spiders sometimes go up on the plastic, but they keep one or two legs on the floor because otherwise they slide down, which is quite funny).
The bigger issue is that she's climbing not that she can't climb. All terrestrials climb sometimes but if they're trying to do it constantly something is not right in their tank. Hopefully you've fixed it now by getting rid of the sand so you'll just have to give her some time and see if she stops climbing so much.
As for why she can't climb very well, it could be that she is pre-molt, or it could just be she's not great at climbing. She's a terrestrial, they're not as good as arboreals. Depending on her size, she may be too big and heavy to climb easily (all my biggest spiders sometimes go up on the plastic, but they keep one or two legs on the floor because otherwise they slide down, which is quite funny).
The bigger issue is that she's climbing not that she can't climb. All terrestrials climb sometimes but if they're trying to do it constantly something is not right in their tank. Hopefully you've fixed it now by getting rid of the sand so you'll just have to give her some time and see if she stops climbing so much.
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Emily...take the time to read this...I don't reply to everything from everybody but in my experience I have used a variety of enclosures, substrates, hides and the like. I have used the good, the bad and the ugly. I do not baby my Ts but I do provide them with the best set-ups I can offer (15 years of trial and error).
I agree with smof ( Kate- I believe I saw in the signature)...strictly vermiculite isn't the best substrate. Peat or coir (ground up coconut husk) is best. Vermiculite is good to mix with the aforementioned substrates and gardeners use it to help aerate and it slightly retains water. With a desert/scrubland species like the G. rosea dryer substrate is preferred by them. Vermiculite does not compact very well so will not be best for burrowing. I would recommend changing the substrate again...I know people say it stresses the T but it will get over it. Once the substrate is changed to the more suitable type, the T will feel better on it.
As for the not being able to get a grip, the molt theories are fairly accurate. In the G. rosea's native country they climb and they do get to greater heights than people think. I have seen pictures in the past of rosies on the side of village structures and at least a few feet off the ground. Clean spots on the tank will also be a reason. Climbing is not important for a G. rosea but they do tend to do it.
As for sand, there is no evidence that it is bad for Ts. It is NOT good as the sole substrate because it does not allow for burrowing. Ts come into contact and a great deal of contact with micro-fine particles from all types of soil so the opinion that it could clog up their book lungs is just silly. The argument that it can scratch up their abdomens I find has little, to no, merit. When they walk across something they slightly raise their abdomens...the abdomen doesn't just drag behind them.
I have hides that i make from a type of volcanic rock and it has a sandy like surface. I have used these hides for many years for a variety of species with no ill effect..no scatching up the abdomens.
So be sure to use the Peat or Coir but dont throw away your vermiculite. If you are trying to make a nice display...a layer of vermiculite under the peat/coir makes a nice effect.
I agree with smof ( Kate- I believe I saw in the signature)...strictly vermiculite isn't the best substrate. Peat or coir (ground up coconut husk) is best. Vermiculite is good to mix with the aforementioned substrates and gardeners use it to help aerate and it slightly retains water. With a desert/scrubland species like the G. rosea dryer substrate is preferred by them. Vermiculite does not compact very well so will not be best for burrowing. I would recommend changing the substrate again...I know people say it stresses the T but it will get over it. Once the substrate is changed to the more suitable type, the T will feel better on it.
As for the not being able to get a grip, the molt theories are fairly accurate. In the G. rosea's native country they climb and they do get to greater heights than people think. I have seen pictures in the past of rosies on the side of village structures and at least a few feet off the ground. Clean spots on the tank will also be a reason. Climbing is not important for a G. rosea but they do tend to do it.
As for sand, there is no evidence that it is bad for Ts. It is NOT good as the sole substrate because it does not allow for burrowing. Ts come into contact and a great deal of contact with micro-fine particles from all types of soil so the opinion that it could clog up their book lungs is just silly. The argument that it can scratch up their abdomens I find has little, to no, merit. When they walk across something they slightly raise their abdomens...the abdomen doesn't just drag behind them.
I have hides that i make from a type of volcanic rock and it has a sandy like surface. I have used these hides for many years for a variety of species with no ill effect..no scatching up the abdomens.
So be sure to use the Peat or Coir but dont throw away your vermiculite. If you are trying to make a nice display...a layer of vermiculite under the peat/coir makes a nice effect.