Chromatopelma Cyaneopubescens Care Sheet ( Slings )

cold blood

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Because a t will only eat so much before being ready to molt....lets say for a particular sling its 5 crickets and it will be filled....well, that sling also needs a certain amount of time to pass to allow for its body to produce the new exo skeleton...lets say that's 40 days.

Now, you could feed those 5 crickets weekly (one a week) and it might fill up right in line with its new growth and you might not get much of any fasting period and growth will still be occurring at a near maximum pace. (assuming for the sake of the example that temps are ideal)

But if you take the same one, and feed it those 5 crickets to that sling in a single week, its now plump, uninterested in food and just awaiting its molting process to finish underneath its old exo...so in this case that t might be fasting for a month because food intake greatly out paced the ts own biological ability to be ready for that next molt.


Light feeding schedules will have a more profound effect slowing growth than heavy feeding schedules will with regards to speeding growth. Like if I fed that aforementioned sling twice a month...now its taking me 75 days to feed those 5 crickets and plump the t...which is 35 days longer than the quickest time the t can form a new exo...so now you are waiting on the food supply to catch up with the biology, which would in essence, potentially double the amount of time between molts.

Neither is wrong or right, the t won't suffer or anything, it will just fast a lot longer if fed heavily, which for new keepers, can be incredibly frustrating as we see in threads on a regular basis.

Its very easy to feed at a faster pace than the t can be ready to molt biologically...which is why pre-molt fasts are normal...and why heavy feeding schedules generally see much longer fasting periods.

Temps also play a more significant role as well, but that's another discussion as ideal temps are needed to truly maximize growth rates...too low and things will slow...and the same thing will actually occur if things are kept too hot...everything has an ideal temp...IME it seems like 77-82 produces the most consistently fast growth rates.
 
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SchubertHelm

Arachnosquire
Joined
May 16, 2017
Messages
74
Because a t will only eat so much before being ready to molt....lets say for a particular sling its 5 crickets and it will be filled....well, that sling also needs a certain amount of time to pass to allow for its body to produce the new exo skeleton...lets say that's 40 days.

Now, you could feed those 5 crickets weekly (one a week) and it might fill up right in line with its new growth and you might not get much of any fasting period and growth will still be occurring at a near maximum pace. (assuming for the sake of the example that temps are ideal)

But if you take the same one, and feed it those 5 crickets to that sling in a single week, its now plump, uninterested in food and just awaiting its molting process to finish underneath its old exo...so in this case that t might be fasting for a month because food intake greatly out paced the ts own biological ability to be ready for that next molt.


Light feeding schedules will have a more profound effect slowing growth than heavy feeding schedules will with regards to speeding growth. Like of I fed that aforementioned sling twice a month...now its taking me 75 days to feed those 5 crickets and plump the t...which is 35 days longer than the quickest time the t can form a new exo...so now you are waiting on the food supply to catch up with the biology, which would in essence, potentially double the amount of time between molts.

Neither is wrong or right, the t won't suffer or anything, it will just fast a lot longer if fed heavily, which for new keepers, can be incredibly frustrating as we see in threads on a regular basis.

Its very easy to feed at a faster pace than the t can be ready to molt biologically...which is why pre-molt fasts are normal...and why heavy feeding schedules generally see much longer fasting periods.

Temps also play a more significant role as well, but that's another discussion as ideal temps are needed to truly maximize growth rates...too low and things will slow...and the same thing will actually occur if things are kept too hot...everything has an ideal temp...IME it seems like 77-82 produces the most consistently fast growth rates.
Thanks for the in-depth explanation @cold blood.
 

cold blood

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Ive experienced threads from others...I know better, I keep mine dry so I never have an issue. Too much moisture can kill them...much like many baboons.
 

BishopiMaster

Arachnobaron
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Ive experienced threads from others...I know better, I keep mine dry so I never have an issue. Too much moisture can kill them...much like many baboons.
You keep yours dry, but you believe a water dish, as small as one is in a sling enclosure, will elevate humidity, so you think that the moisture is the issue? What's interesting, and, I've only kept a few baboons, but what I feel is that one of the reasons arid tarantula species tend to be heavier webbers, in the old worlds, is to conserve humidity in their burrows, evolutionarily speaking, I wonder what the actual issue with moisture is.
 

cold blood

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You keep yours dry, but you believe a water dish, as small as one is in a sling enclosure, will elevate humidity, so you think that the moisture is the issue?
Now you are making things up and attributing them to me....as I have said and repeatedly quoted...a water dish is there as a safety net to provide hydration...its NOT there to elevate humidity...A GBB has no humidity requirements, like baboons... but they will still drink from time to time.

Humidity isn't something that needs to be measured or even paid attention to.
A water dish doesn't make anything more stressful...its a safety net that assures the t always has adequate hydration.
The water dish isn't for humidity
 
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BishopiMaster

Arachnobaron
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Now you are making things up and attributing them to me....as I have said and repeatedly quoted...a water dish is there as a safety net to provide hydration...its NOT there to elevate humidity...A GBB has no humidity requirements, like baboons... but they will still drink from time to time.
Yeah you are right, kezy said that, not you, but what you are saying here strikes me.
If you honestly believe that a GBB has NO humidity requirements, then you can never ever water your GBB or baboon aside from having a water dish at any stage ever
 

cold blood

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Yeah you are right, kezy said that, not you, but what you are saying here strikes me.
If you honestly believe that a GBB has NO humidity requirements, then you can never ever water your GBB or baboon aside from having a water dish at any stage ever
Yes, this is 100% correct (aside from the smallest slings).

Supplying water to drink is not in any way shape of form related to humidity levels...heck I leave a dish for my dog for the same reasons...so it can drink...not for elevated humidity.
 

BishopiMaster

Arachnobaron
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Supplying water to drink is not in any way shape of form related to humidity levels...heck I leave a dish for my dog for the same reasons...so it can drink...not for elevated humidity.
You should read my post, i acknowledged you didnt say that, im referring to something entirely different here. Tell me, do you ever water your baboons or gbbs, aside from having a water dish, ever?
 
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