Best Proper Set up for an Avic Versicolor

Fl00dedlungs

Arachnopeon
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Mar 14, 2018
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I have a 2.5-3 inch one I got from a repticon back in November. Seems to be doing good, and is growing has molted 2 times since I’ve had them.
Anyways, what is the best possible set up? I have he/she in a ziploc tall container thing right now with cut out square screen ventilation at the top. On a small heating pad (house gets cold) I’m talking 65 degrees sometimes. I know cross ventilation is important so I’m just about to create a new encloure to ensure this and make everything better for him. And I’m using coconut fiber from zoo med. Also hot glued a nice size piece of cork bark for him. I don’t mist then container, I just drop water droplets in his web and keep a bottle cap at the bottom for his water dish.
BUT I really would like to know what’s the best type of substrate for him. I got vermiculite the other day and if that’s wrong I can take it back and get the right stuff.
If there’s anything I’m doing wrong please let me know anything or more tips and advice on how to keep my avic happy. I read the forums a lot. I hear sometimes they just die.☹ Thanks
 

Ztesch

Arachnoknight
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Aug 20, 2017
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Heat pads are no bueno. I wouldn't use one unless the room you keep your T in is consistently lower then 65'. Also you can mix vermiculite with top soil and that would work very good. Although there is nothing wrong with using coco fiber. Like you said cross ventilation is the key with this species. The more holes the better.
 
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Ztesch

Arachnoknight
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Aug 20, 2017
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Check out Tom Moran on YouTube. He has a great beginner guide to raising tarantulas and a Caribena versicolor husbandry guide.
C.Versicolor
Beginner guide
 

Ztesch

Arachnoknight
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This is a video of a enclosure where I keep my Versicolor around the same size as yours.
 

cold blood

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substrate is a matter of personal preference...any of the acceptable subs are fine for any t....that said, vermiculite is an additive to sub, and not good on its own...but with a true arboreal like a versi, its probably workable as the t will not be burrowing. I wouldnt use straight verm though personally.
 

Fl00dedlungs

Arachnopeon
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Mar 14, 2018
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Heat pads are no bueno. I wouldn't use one unless the room you keep your T in is consistently lower then 65'. Also you can mix vermiculite with top soil and that would work very good. Although there is nothing wrong with using coco fiber. Like you said cross ventilation is the key with this species. The more holes the better.
So I need to get rid of the heat pad.. I know it probably does not help keeping the enclosure not stuffy. I
Heat pads are no bueno. I wouldn't use one unless the room you keep your T in is consistently lower then 65'. Also you can mix vermiculite with top soil and that would work very good. Although there is nothing wrong with using coco fiber. Like you said cross ventilation is the key with this species. The more holes the better.
My parents like the keep the house cold. That’s why I got the heat pad cause I was scared the temps were gonna kill it. My bearded dragons lights keep my room warm during the day but at night when they’re off it gets cold and it seems to hit 65 degrees a lot and under but never under 60. I wish I was joking, I cant touch the thermostat. I even have to get a ceramic heat light at night for my dragons cause I’m scared the cold will make them sick.
I know heat pads probably make the enclosure stuffy too which is not good. I’m not sure what to do. Do you think I can just put the cage on it at night or will it be fine?

Another question for substrate.
Is peat moss a good option? I hear you can use that alone?
 

Fl00dedlungs

Arachnopeon
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Mar 14, 2018
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substrate is a matter of personal preference...any of the acceptable subs are fine for any t....that said, vermiculite is an additive to sub, and not good on its own...but with a true arboreal like a versi, its probably workable as the t will not be burrowing. I wouldnt use straight verm though personally.
What about peat moss can that be used on its own? I don’t know why I don’t like the coco fiber
 

Venom1080

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peat moss works great. best sub out there once it absorbs some water. very hydrophobic at first.

id put the heat pad like 8" away from the back of the cage at night.
 

Ztesch

Arachnoknight
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So the problem with heat pads is that they can actually cook your Tarantula and kill it. If you have the heat pad rite on the enclosure the T could be attracted to the hot spot. If it were to stay there too long it could kill it. You can however buy a external heat source and heat your whole room. From what I heard you can buy a indoor external heater at Wal-Mart for about $50. Then you can run the heater for a hour or so and then shut it off at whatever temperature you want. You just might have to run it a few times a day to keep your room at the desired temperature.
 

NukaMedia Exotics

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For heating purposes its a rule of thumb to never use a heat pad for tarantulas as there's a number of issues it can cause, the most serious being completely frying it. Instead, use a portable heater if temps are too low in the area. C. versicolor don't need much sub but like an inch of some coco peat or similar dirt sub at the bottom would be great, lots of vertical space to the enclosure with sticks/plants to climb and web up. Bone dry don't mist it or anything, only keep a full water dish.
 

Andrea82

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@Mvtt70 it is not a rule of thumb. It is a preference, nothing more, nothing less. ;)

Going against the crowd here. Keep the heat pad, just don't stick it directly on the enclosure. Place it on the wall or shelf behind it and keep some space, about 2 inches between the pad and the enclosure.
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
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Going against the crowd here. Keep the heat pad, just don't stick it directly on the enclosure. Place it on the wall or shelf behind it and keep some space, about 2 inches between the pad and the enclosure.
I don't think too many keepers would object to using a heating pad that is not in direct contact. (I have a couple of enclosures that are heated with pads that are not in direct contact.) Just make sure whatever you stick it to is not flammable, and there is adequate airflow around the heating pad. (I use sheets of tempered glass or stone tiles.)

When you have a large number of enclosures, this becomes impractical, but for one enclosure, it's fine.
 

Andrea82

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I don't think too many keepers would object to using a heating pad that is not in direct contact. (I have a couple of enclosures that are heated with pads that are not in direct contact.) Just make sure whatever you stick it to is not flammable, and there is adequate airflow around the heating pad. (I use sheets of tempered glass or stone tiles.)

When you have a large number of enclosures, this becomes impractical, but for one enclosure, it's fine.
With multiple enclosures, get a heat cable, easy as pie:
http://arachnoboards.com/threads/c-lividum-setup.301554/page-3#post-2721123
 
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