B. Smithi vs. B. Hamorii Care?

[Toadfang]

I know they're sister species, and there's been DNA research and appropriate changes in classification... but I can't fi d anything out there that addresses if there's a difference in husbandry between the two hobby staples. Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

 

[moricollins]

Care is the exact same.

 

[Toadfang]

I guess my next question would be - Why would I choose one over the other? (Regional preference? I like muted orange more than dark orange? Lol.)

 

[Tarantuland]

I guess my next question would be - Why would I choose one over the other? (Regional preference? I like muted orange more than dark orange? Lol.)

I believe what's called Smithi is a little bigger, but I would just go by price/availability/size/sex. Behavior and growth rate will be similar as well. Morphological difference are there, but not blatant to the untrained eye

 

[Egon]

I just ordered a Smithi from Fear Not Tarantulas. It was only $3 more expensive than a Hamorii. Smithi seems brighter and has more pink/red than Hamorri from the pictures I've seen online. I have no personal experience with either, but from what I've read there doesn't appear to be any noticeable difference in overall care, behavior, temperament, etc.

 

[Matt Man]

smithi and bigger and have more color at the second leg joint
hamorii have a more defined ring around their carapace

 

[The Grym Reaper]

Care is exactly the same, smithi gets bigger and isn't as commonly available.

Temperament is whatever you end up with, my smithi is the only Brachy I have that fits the "hair-kicker" label that all Brachys get stuck with and is pretty skittish, my hamorii is one of my most defensive tarantulas.

The differences are most noticeable on the tibia (1, smithi is orange, hamorii is off-white), trochanter (2, hamorii is solid orange, smithi is separated by black), and patella (3, hamorii has black on the sides of the patella, smithi does not), some hamorii also have banding on the chelicera (4) that isn't found in smithi. Contrary to popular opinion, carapace colouration can not be used to ID them, there is too much variation between individuals of both species.

 

[viper69]

I know they're sister species, and there's been DNA research and appropriate changes in classification... but I can't fi d anything out there that addresses if there's a difference in husbandry between the two hobby staples. Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

kept same- that’s why you haven’t found a thing

 

[Exoskeleton Invertebrates]

There is definitely a difference between the two species. And fortunately you have two hamorii variants to choose from that will make your head spin.

 

[Exoskeleton Invertebrates]

Care is exactly the same, smithi gets bigger and isn't as commonly available.

Temperament is whatever you end up with, my smithi is the only Brachy I have that fits the "hair-kicker" label that all Brachys get stuck with and is pretty skittish, my hamorii is one of my most defensive tarantulas.

The differences are most noticeable on the tibia (1, smithi is orange, hamorii is off-white), trochanter (2, hamorii is solid orange, smithi is separated by black), and patella (3, hamorii has black on the sides of the patella, smithi does not), some hamorii also have banding on the chelicera (4) that isn't found in smithi. Contrary to popular opinion, carapace colouration can not be used to ID them, there is too much variation between individuals of both species.

View attachment 403037

I’ve had hamorri with dark chelicerae. In my opinion not valid to follow on between the two species. The trochanter coloration most definitely as you stated on your post.

 

[Liquifin]

I know the revision and clarification from Francke and Mendoza states that B. hamorii have chelicerae banding whereas B. smithi (ex. Annitha) doesn't have them. But I'm certain I've seen B. smithi with chelicerae banding before. If you google B. annitha aka. the former scientific name. You can still find pictures of them with chelicerae banding. Which makes me wonder a bit sometimes on Francke and Mendoza about the information on the revision.

 

[Matt Man]

Care is exactly the same, smithi gets bigger and isn't as commonly available.

Temperament is whatever you end up with, my smithi is the only Brachy I have that fits the "hair-kicker" label that all Brachys get stuck with and is pretty skittish, my hamorii is one of my most defensive tarantulas.

The differences are most noticeable on the tibia (1, smithi is orange, hamorii is off-white), trochanter (2, hamorii is solid orange, smithi is separated by black), and patella (3, hamorii has black on the sides of the patella, smithi does not), some hamorii also have banding on the chelicera (4) that isn't found in smithi. Contrary to popular opinion, carapace colouration can not be used to ID them, there is too much variation between individuals of both species.

View attachment 403037

Great image and notes. I agree about carapace color, but IMO the carapace of B. smithi tend to lack the clean color break of B. hamorii, then again that is only my experience. My smithi experience the shift is more like a fade than a hard break

 

[The Grym Reaper]

I’ve had hamorri with dark chelicerae.

I think you skipped over the part where I said some hamorii (not all) have the banding

 

[Exoskeleton Invertebrates]

I think you skipped over the part where I said some hamorii (not all) have the banding

Let me clarify. What I forgot to add on my post is I had immature male B. smithi that had light bandings on the chelicerae. So, because both species carry dark and light chelicerae bandings on each specimen it’s not valid to ID.

 

[Arachnophobphile]

I guess my next question would be - Why would I choose one over the other? (Regional preference? I like muted orange more than dark orange? Lol.)

Well first welcome to AB
That's half the battle is new keepers coming here to get help. The other half of the battle is keeping new keepers here when help is given.

You answered your own question. Using myself as an example I collect tarantulas on colors and markings. Alot of people like blue, so do I but I prefer black.

When I first started it was all about a T being docile. Now it's all about color and markings and I seem to lean to arboreals now.

Your taste can evolve in collecting. Some keepers get bored of a docile pet rock and want a fiesty T for a change of pace.

 

[Toadfang]

Well first welcome to AB
That's half the battle is new keepers coming here to get help. The other half of the battle is keeping new keepers here when help is given.

You answered your own question. Using myself as an example I collect tarantulas on colors and markings. Alot of people like blue, so do I but I prefer black.

When I first started it was all about a T being docile. Now it's all about color and markings and I seem to lean to arboreals now.

Your taste can evolve in collecting. Some keepers get bored of a docile pet rock and want a fiesty T for a change of pace.

I love the idea of an arboreal, however I'm still a little gun-shy about a fuzzy lightning bolt with 3/4" fangs saying "TAG! yer it."

 

[Arachnophobphile]

I love the idea of an arboreal, however I'm still a little gun-shy about a fuzzy lightning bolt with 3/4" fangs saying "TAG! yer it."

Do you have any tarantulas now? How long have you had them if you have them?

If you don't have any my best tip is go with what you're comfortable with starting out. It's not a race to get to tarantulas that are recommended for advanced keepers as fast as you can.

It's best starting off with a hardy NW first. They can be easier to work with especially when it's time for rehousing. Plus can handle husbandry mistakes and still come out shining.

I really hate the term 'beginner' tarantulas. Some of the *beginner* tarantulas are wonderful T's to begin with and keepers that have been keeping for a long time keep some of these in their collections as well.

 

[Toadfang]

Do you have any tarantulas now? How long have you had them if you have them?

If you don't have any my best tip is go with what you're comfortable with starting out. It's not a race to get to tarantulas that are recommended for advanced keepers as fast as you can.

It's best starting off with a hardy NW first. They can be easier to work with especially when it's time for rehousing. Plus can handle husbandry mistakes and still come out shining.

I really hate the term 'beginner' tarantulas. Some of the *beginner* tarantulas are wonderful T's to begin with and keepers that have been keeping for a long time keep some of these in their collections as well.

The only T. I have currently is a 1 3/4" g. pulchra. It's been a fun experience so far. I value your comments, and no, I don't feel a rush to buy something I'm not potentially comfortable with. However, after my wife bought me the g. pulchra, I then discovered and purchased two amblypygids. Now I have a serious case of arachnid-itis. I just want all of them.

 

[Arachnophobphile]

The only T. I have currently is a 1 3/4" g. pulchra. It's been a fun experience so far. I value your comments, and no, I don't feel a rush to buy something I'm not potentially comfortable with. However, after my wife bought me the g. pulchra, I then discovered and purchased two amblypygids. Now I have a serious case of arachnid-itis. I just want all of them.

yup that's usually what happens, you become addicted.

Congratz on the G. pulchra. That T is an awesome one. It was what I wanted when I first started and I still want one. I will be getting one no matter what.

Whip scorpions are pretty cool. I want one of those and a vinegaroon too.

 

[QuinnStarr]

I really hate the term 'beginner' tarantulas. Some of the *beginner* tarantulas are wonderful T's to begin with and keepers that have been keeping for a long time keep some of these in their collections as well.

Any tarantula is a “beginner” tarantula if you research and practice enough before buying it.
That’s not a 100% true statement but I’ll stand by it in the case of most NW’s. GBB might be an exception if you’re buying anything other than a sling - those suckers are fast for a NW.

Theraphosa isn’t considered a “beginner” species but T. apophysis was my second. I just took the time to memorize Tom Moran’s husbandry video word for word and practiced keeping moist substrate for weeks to get it right before I actually pulled the trigger on getting one.