B. Hamorii ‘sling’ - premolt?

Phobiuh

Arachnopeon
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Jul 4, 2018
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Hello everyone,

I got this girl here from a reputable T breeder early last month, and during her time with me she has only eaten fully once, with the second time ending her leaving the prey about 3/4ths uneaten.

she is apparently a CB2017 female B. Hamorii, which will make her three years old this year. However, she seems a bit small to me to be three years old at about 1”-1.5” long. What do you guys think? She was also sexed as female by the breeder using her molt and a microscope of some sort.

Here she is in the enclosure I moved her to about two days ago, it is a 12oz jar.

attached is also a picture of what I housed her initially, though clearly it was too big and after further research, I’ve decided to downgrade so that I can keep a close eye on her.

I have had her for nearly two months and she has been refusing food now for about four weeks. The temps stay in the high 70s all day and I attempt to feed her prekilled super worms with the head crushed/cut off entirely so that they do not burrow and she could easily have access to its juices.

After looking at the pics closely, it appears that the substrate looks really wet but I can assure you it is not, although there is condensation on the walls where her water dish it, no where else. Is that OK?

If there is anymore information required, please ask away.

Thank you.
 

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EulersK

Arachnonomicon
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I wouldn't worry about the condensation. Can we see what your ventilation looks like?

That spider looks incredibly healthy, so good job there :) Like most Brachypelma, this species isn't known for its growth speed. While that may be pretty small for three years, you have to remember that dealers don't care for individual spiders as closely as the rest of us. They have potentially thousands of slings, and you've got a handful. Simply put, you and I can feed much more often, resulting in faster growth.
 

Ungoliant

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she is apparently a CB2017 female B. Hamorii, which will make her three years old this year. However, she seems a bit small to me to be three years old at about 1”-1.5” long. What do you guys think? She was also sexed as female by the breeder using her molt and a microscope of some sort.
Do you know when she last molted?

If she's not eating, she could be in pre-molt, although it may be a while before it actually happens. (During the says before the molt, her abdomen will darken -- not just that black patch of urticating hairs, but the entire abdomen.)

Signs of pre-molt (a single sign might not mean pre-molt, but if you are seeing multiple signs, it is likely pre-molt):
  • refuses food
  • seems more lethargic, skittish, or reclusive than normal
  • coloring looks drabber than normal
  • spontaneously shedding hair around its enclosure (unprovoked by external stimuli)
  • seals itself into its burrow (do not disturb sign)
  • entire abdomen turns dark (not visible on larger tarantulas without a bald spot): will molt within a few days to a week
  • makes a molting mat: will likely molt within a day
  • flips onto its back or side: it begins!
 

Phobiuh

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jul 4, 2018
Messages
30
I wouldn't worry about the condensation. Can we see what your ventilation looks like?

That spider looks incredibly healthy, so good job there :) Like most Brachypelma, this species isn't known for its growth speed. While that may be pretty small for three years, you have to remember that dealers don't care for individual spiders as closely as the rest of us. They have potentially thousands of slings, and you've got a handful. Simply put, you and I can feed much more often, resulting in faster growth.
I have about 15 tiny holes drilled at the top of the lid for ventilation, smaller than her carapace so that she wouldn’t be able to escape.

The condensation is only on about 1/4 of her enclosure, near where her water dish is.
Do you know when she last molted?

If she's not eating, she could be in pre-molt, although it may be a while before it actually happens. (During the says before the molt, her abdomen will darken -- not just that black patch of urticating hairs, but the entire abdomen.)

Signs of pre-molt (a single sign might not mean pre-molt, but if you are seeing multiple signs, it is likely pre-molt):
  • refuses food
  • seems more lethargic, skittish, or reclusive than normal
  • coloring looks drabber than normal
  • spontaneously shedding hair around its enclosure (unprovoked by external stimuli)
  • seals itself into its burrow (do not disturb sign)
  • entire abdomen turns dark (not visible on larger tarantulas without a bald spot): will molt within a few days to a week
  • makes a molting mat: will likely molt within a day
  • flips onto its back or side: it begins!
I posted pics in hopes of you guys being able to distinguish if she was getting ready to molt or not based on her appearance. From those signs, she is a bit skittish but not always, and has also refused food for about four weeks now.

It is difficult for me to judge her abdomen for molting, what do you guys think?

i have tried leaving dead super worms in her enclosure over night, putting them near her while they were still barely alive (head crushed) and wiggling, but she either shows no interest or runs away from it. The one time she ate I let the juices seep through the worm and she came back to it later that night.

Your input is greatly appreciated guys, thank you!
 

cold blood

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1. Ideally, ventilation is best on the sides....top only ventilation doesnt promote air movement....just for future reference....nothing that needs to be worried about now.

2. See the black spot....eventually this black spot will take over the whole rump....in the latest stages the skin will look stretched out and shiny. But this darkening indicates the latter stages, pre molt can begin much earlier as you see, and pre molt can last a long time, even slings can go over 6 months.

3. Your t does not need food. Theres no reason to even offer...even if it takes till spring. Just keep conditions right and wait for a molt. Feed about a week after it molts.

Youre doing fine:)
 

Phobiuh

Arachnopeon
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Another thing I wanted to address is that since rehousing her to this container, she has constantly been standing on her toes... almost as if she’s eating. Could it be that the condensation is bothering her?
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
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I posted pics in hopes of you guys being able to distinguish if she was getting ready to molt or not based on her appearance. From those signs, she is a bit skittish but not always, and has also refused food for about four weeks now.

It is difficult for me to judge her abdomen for molting, what do you guys think?
I realize it can be a bit annoying to get "maybe" as a response, but it's really not visually obvious that a tarantula is in pre-molt until the molt is very close, when its whole abdomen begins to darken.


Another thing I wanted to address is that since rehousing her to this container, she has constantly been standing on her toes... almost as if she’s eating. Could it be that the condensation is bothering her?
Is the substrate packed tight or loose? Sometimes tarantulas don't like loose substrate and will try to avoid it.

If it's packed tight but just slightly damp, it should dry out on its own. From then, you can keep one area slightly damp and another dry so she has a choice.
 

Phobiuh

Arachnopeon
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Jul 4, 2018
Messages
30
Hello again everyone,

I waited a while and today, I went to the pet store and bought some meal worms, along with some super worms. I threw a live meal worm inside her enclosure to see if she'd take it -- she didn't, so I crushed the head and left it in there. She took it soon after! Guess she was not in premolt after all. :)

I wanted to thank @cold blood for his suggestion of housing slings in smaller enclosures with no hide so that they can eat constantly, I really cannot thank you enough.

I am getting two new slings next week, a T. Vagans and B. Klaasi (1.5" and .5", respectively) and wanted to get them all similar enclosures. I wanted to get them AMAC 4"x4" and wanted to know if it is fine for their size, as well as how long it should last them?

I am keeping my B. Hamorii warmer now at about 85f-90f or so and plan to do the same with the other two so that they can eat more and molt frequently. Please let me know your thoughts, thanks.
 
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The Grym Reaper

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she is apparently a CB2017 female B. Hamorii, which will make her three years old this year.
If it was late 2017 then it would barely be over 2 years old.

she seems a bit small to me to be three years old at about 1”-1.5” long. What do you guys think?
Nope, assuming it's closer to 2 like I said above then that'd be about right, I have a bunch of Brachys and ex Brachys that I purchased about 2 and a half years ago as slings, the largest is 3" or so, the smallest is around 2".

I have had her for nearly two months and she has been refusing food now for about four weeks.
Could be gearing up to moult but it could equally just be full and fasting, Brachys can go several months without food even at smaller sizes (I've had a 1.5" B. albiceps refuse food for over 5 months before), just make sure it has water available.

As it's approaching a moult you'll initially notice a black/shiny spot under the mirror patch (the black patch of hairs on the abdomen), as time goes by this will expand until the whole abdomen is black/shiny, it's easier to notice if the tarantula has kicked off some hairs.

Bald vs pre-moult.jpg
 
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