Anyone use Reptisoil (Zoo Med)?

[checkmate]

I've been using Eco Earth coco fiber substrate sometimes mixed with sphagnum moss. Anyone here use Reptisoil? From Zoo Med's website:
A special blend of Peat Moss, soil, sand, and carbon.

• Create tropical set-ups in Naturalistic Terrariums and Paludariums.
• Burrowing and egg-laying substrate allows for natural behaviors.
• Plant Growing soil for live plants such as:
  • Ferns.
  • Bromeliads.
  • Miniature Orchids.
  • Succulents.
  • and/or Carnivorous Plants.
• Added carbon helps to aerate soil and improve drainage of ReptiSoil™.

 

[cold blood]

What's the cost on this stuff?

I always avoid anything that makes claims about being good for growing plants. The best stuff to use is actually marketed for filling holes and leveling ground. Its also the cheapest stuff available....A 40lb bag costs a mere $1.37. I don't see how any of its claims would make it superior to plain cheap top soil, as its also naturalistic and allows for burrowing and provides the same basic drainage...if that's even important with ts.....and ts have no issues dropping sacs on the stuff.....I would be leery, but it is designed with animals in mind.

Topsoil

• cold blood
• Dec 29, 2017
• 2

 

[Storm1028]

I mix my own substrate and plants grow well in it. If you are interested, here are the materials:

• Exo Terra Plantation Soil (coco fiber)
• Zoo Med Excavator Clay
• Zoo Med Sand
• Oak Leaves
• Sphagnum Moss

These materials are expensive and I just so happen to have them sitting around. Although they are expensive, they do last quite a long time if used in the right amount. Here is the amount of each material I use:
5 parts coco fiber + 1/2 part clay + 1/2 part sand + 2-3 crushed oak leaves + 1 1/2 parts sphagnum moss.

 

[darkness975]

I've been using Eco Earth coco fiber substrate sometimes mixed with sphagnum moss. Anyone here use Reptisoil? From Zoo Med's website:
A special blend of Peat Moss, soil, sand, and carbon.

• Create tropical set-ups in Naturalistic Terrariums and Paludariums.
• Burrowing and egg-laying substrate allows for natural behaviors.
• Plant Growing soil for live plants such as:
  • Ferns.
  • Bromeliads.
  • Miniature Orchids.
  • Succulents.
  • and/or Carnivorous Plants.
• Added carbon helps to aerate soil and improve drainage of ReptiSoil™.

Plain coco fiber or top soil is all you need. Like @cold blood said any substrate that boasts how plants grow in it is likely mixed with fertilizers and other chemicals that are not good for the Spider.

 

[checkmate]

Thanks all. @cold blood I believe the cost was about $14 for a 10qt bag at the local pet store. Similarly priced on Amazon.

I don't plan on growing any plants in my enclosures, I was just listing what they had on their website. I was more interested in the peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon mixture. I'll try some top soil from home depot.

@Storm1028 the crushed oak leaves are mixed in your substrate or just sort of a leaf litter on top?

 

[viper69]

I mix my own substrate and plants grow well in it. If you are interested, here are the materials:

• Exo Terra Plantation Soil (coco fiber)
• Zoo Med Excavator Clay
• Zoo Med Sand
• Oak Leaves
• Sphagnum Moss

These materials are expensive and I just so happen to have them sitting around. Although they are expensive, they do last quite a long time if used in the right amount. Here is the amount of each material I use:
5 parts coco fiber + 1/2 part clay + 1/2 part sand + 2-3 crushed oak leaves + 1 1/2 parts sphagnum moss.

What species are you keeping on that, how did you come up with the proportions AND the ingredients too.

It certainly seems interesting. I've seen the Clay in person and up on YouTube for a T home, seemed pretty interesting for dry scrubland/desert species. I heard the Clay gets a bit mushy if it gets wet after hardening.

 

[StampFan]

I'm throwing in my vote for peat moss:
1) cheap like dirt (literally)
2) lighter than dirt
3) less likely to mold than dirt (more acidic)
4) holds moisture well
5) has a nice texture, packs down nicely.

And did I mention its cheap like dirt?

 

[Storm1028]

Thanks all. @cold blood I believe the cost was about $14 for a 10qt bag at the local pet store. Similarly priced on Amazon.

I don't plan on growing any plants in my enclosures, I was just listing what they had on their website. I was more interested in the peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon mixture. I'll try some top soil from home depot.

@Storm1028 the crushed oak leaves are mixed in your substrate or just sort of a leaf litter on top?

Depends. Usually mixed with the substrate. If I add isopods I do both, having a layer of crushed leaves on top of the substrate.

 

[Storm1028]

What species are you keeping on that, how did you come up with the proportions AND the ingredients too.

It certainly seems interesting. I've seen the Clay in person and up on YouTube for a T home, seemed pretty interesting for dry scrubland/desert species. I heard the Clay gets a bit mushy if it gets wet after hardening.

The full mixture I use for all my tropical species (Pamphobeteus sp.). For arid species like M. balfouri and C. cyaneopubescens, I use 2 parts clay with 1 part sand and 1 part coco fiber. If you use straight clay it will get mushy and if you pour a good amount of water it will also get mushy. I grow plants (succulents) in the arid enclosure and it is growing well due to the presence of coco fiber. I know coco fiber doesn't provide that many nutrients so I fertilize using Blaptica dubia frass and exuvia (since I breed dubias) once in awhile. I came up with the mixture and ingredients through trial and error, always experimenting and adding different variables for my enclosure.

Edit: To be more specific, here are the reasons why I chose to use these components for my tropical mix:

• coco fiber - as the main soil
• clay - helps with water absorbent (when coco fiber is dry) so the water doesn't pool at the top and for holding structure
• sand - aeration (I also notice I have less to no mold growth when I use sand)
• oak leaves - acid/nutrients for the plants and food for isos and springtails
• sphagnum moss - allows the soil to be slightly clumpy in some area (for addition aeration) and acid/nutrients for plants

 

[cold blood]

I'm throwing in my vote for peat moss:
1) cheap like dirt (literally)
2) lighter than dirt
3) less likely to mold than dirt (more acidic)
4) holds moisture well
5) has a nice texture, packs down nicely.

And did I mention its cheap like dirt?

But if you have respiratory issues like allergies or asthma....the stuff should be avoided...that dust is terrible....its the reason I no longer use it at all. It also doesn't pack down very tightly, so I don't agree with your #5....and when dry, is hydrophobic. I've poured water onto it and had it sit as a puddle for several days before finally soaking in...that said, once its damp, it holds moisture better than anything else....so its definitely got its uses...I just can't anymore.

If I didn't have asthma, I likely would keep buying it.

I use straight top soil for everything....I see little need to mix anything into it....but I have no urges to grow plants in the enclosures...just ts.

 

[StampFan]

But if you have respiratory issues like allergies or asthma....the stuff should be avoided...that dust is terrible....its the reason I no longer use it at all. It also doesn't pack down very tightly, so I don't agree with your #5....and when dry, is hydrophobic. I've poured water onto it and had it sit as a puddle for several days before finally soaking in...that said, once its damp, it holds moisture better than anything else....so its definitely got its uses...I just can't anymore.

If I didn't have asthma, I likely would keep buying it.

I use straight top soil for everything....I see little need to mix anything into it....but I have no urges to grow plants in the enclosures...just ts.

Interesting. I have asthma and allergies and no issues to date.

By biggest issue with peat is keeping it in the garage at -30. Need to mine it with a sharp object.

 

[viper69]

But if you have respiratory issues like allergies or asthma....the stuff should be avoided...that dust is terrible....its the reason I no longer use it at all. It also doesn't pack down very tightly, so I don't agree with your #5....and when dry, is hydrophobic. I've poured water onto it and had it sit as a puddle for several days before finally soaking in...that said, once its damp, it holds moisture better than anything else....so its definitely got its uses...I just can't anymore.

If I didn't have asthma, I likely would keep buying it.

I use straight top soil for everything....I see little need to mix anything into it....but I have no urges to grow plants in the enclosures...just ts.

Sounds just like coco fiber actually, I've used both. Haven't used peat in a long time though, switched to coco.

I like the mixture in the above post.

 

[viper69]

The full mixture I use for all my tropical species (Pamphobeteus sp.). For arid species like M. balfouri and C. cyaneopubescens, I use 2 parts clay with 1 part sand and 1 part coco fiber. If you use straight clay it will get mushy and if you pour a good amount of water it will also get mushy. I grow plants (succulents) in the arid enclosure and it is growing well due to the presence of coco fiber. I know coco fiber doesn't provide that many nutrients so I fertilize using Blaptica dubia frass and exuvia (since I breed dubias) once in awhile. I came up with the mixture and ingredients through trial and error, always experimenting and adding different variables for my enclosure.

Edit: To be more specific, here are the reasons why I chose to use these components for my tropical mix:

• coco fiber - as the main soil
• clay - helps with water absorbent (when coco fiber is dry) so the water doesn't pool at the top and for holding structure
• sand - aeration (I also notice I have less to no mold growth when I use sand)
• oak leaves - acid/nutrients for the plants and food for isos and springtails
• sphagnum moss - allows the soil to be slightly clumpy in some area (for addition aeration) and acid/nutrients for plants

Thanks a lot. Do you have succulents in with the Ts? I'd love to see pics of that set up if you have any.

@EulersK I know you like to experiment a bit, here's an interesting mix above.

 

[Storm1028]

Thanks a lot. Do you have succulents in with the Ts? I'd love to see pics of that set up if you have any.

@EulersK I know you like to experiment a bit, here's an interesting mix above.

Definately. I do have a Portulacaria afra (succulent) with my female M. balfouri setup. Will send pictures soon.

 

[viper69]

Definately. I do have a Portulacaria afra (succulent) with my female M. balfouri setup. Will send pictures soon.

Excellent. I'd love to see the pics. I've always been tempted to grow some plants with T, but you know how they web up everything, at least some do. Also many tear them up too. Makes me wonder what they do in the wild at times. I've seen female T burrows in the USA, and never noticed the immediate area being bald of vegetation.

 

[Storm1028]

@viper69, this is the setup for my M. balfouri. Currently, the plant is looking bare because I just trimmed the old leaves to promote new growth. They do web up some of the plant (in this case the lower part of the plant), but if you provide a larger plant, the spider is less prone to climb the plant and web it, unless it's a C. cyaneopubescens.... I also provide some lighting during the day and the spider's activity is less during those hours. If you plant the vegetation in the terrarium first and leave it for a month or less, the roots will already develop well enough to prevent uprooting by the T. Here are the pictures:
@EulersK, this is the setup for the M. balfouri I got from you (also, thank you again ). Do you think it's in premolt? The colors are very dull and also, some areas of the chelicerae and scopula are bronze, which is different when compared to other pictures of balfouris.

 

[viper69]

@viper69, this is the setup for my M. balfouri. Currently, the plant is looking bare because I just trimmed the old leaves to promote new growth. They do web up some of the plant (in this case the lower part of the plant), but if you provide a larger plant, the spider is less prone to climb the plant and web it, unless it's a C. cyaneopubescens.... I also provide some lighting during the day and the spider's activity is less during those hours. If you plant the vegetation in the terrarium first and leave it for a month or less, the roots will already develop well enough to prevent uprooting by the T. Here are the pictures:
View attachment 266162 View attachment 266163 @EulersK, this is the setup for the M. balfouri I got from you (also, thank you again ). Do you think it's in premolt? The colors are very dull and also, some areas of the chelicerae and scopula are bronze, which is different when compared to other pictures of balfouris.

Thanks a lot, esp for being so quick!! This is very interesting. Always wanted to do my C. cyano. but I know she will just web up EVERYTHING However balfouri and perhaps my E. sp Red would be good for this. If I go ahead with this at some point, I'll reach out to you.

A month, that's good to know, I would not have known that. I'm not well versed in plants, just cork bark hah. I do know pruning promotes new growth, but in captivity, I don't know why people do that with plants, I presume so the plants grow larger??

What type of light are you using?

 

[Storm1028]

Thanks a lot, esp for being so quick!! This is very interesting. Always wanted to do my C. cyano. but I know she will just web up EVERYTHING However balfouri and perhaps my E. sp Red would be good for this. If I go ahead with this at some point, I'll reach out to you.

A month, that's good to know, I would not have known that. I'm not well versed in plants, just cork bark hah. I do know pruning promotes new growth, but in captivity, I don't know why people do that with plants, I presume so the plants grow larger??

What type of light are you using?

From what I read, Portulacaria afra (African succulent) will grow better when their leaves are stripped. They are also known as elephant bush because it is a food source for elephants. In captivity, root prunning is necessary to eliminate root bound, therefore, people typically root prune once a year or two. Also, when root bound, nutrients are lacking in the pots. I am still unclear regarding leave prunning but what I do know is that in the bonsai hobby, you prune leaves to shape and to force the tree to grow smaller leaves. This practice is only for healthy trees/plants that can withstand the damage. In a terrarium, you can avoid root prunning. If you add microfauna, you don't have to worry about root pruning. For the lighting, I use Daylight CFL (compact flourescent light) at 5,000K running for 6-8 hours depending on the plant. Below is a picture of a terrarium setup for a Pamphobeteus sp. Ecuador II. I just set it yesterday and is looking very damp because I want to promote root growth of the Rabbit's Foor Fern on the cork tube. *sorry this took awhile. It took awhile to upload the image.

 

[viper69]

From what I read, Portulacaria afra (African succulent) will grow better when their leaves are stripped. They are also known as elephant bush because it is a food source for elephants. In captivity, root prunning is necessary to eliminate root bound, therefore, people typically root prune once a year or two. Also, when root bound, nutrients are lacking in the pots. I am still unclear regarding leave prunning but what I do know is that in the bonsai hobby, you prune leaves to shape and to force the tree to grow smaller leaves. This practice is only for healthy trees/plants that can withstand the damage. In a terrarium, you can avoid root prunning. If you add microfauna, you don't have to worry about root pruning. For the lighting, I use Daylight CFL (compact flourescent light) at 5,000K running for 6-8 hours depending on the plant. Below is a picture of a terrarium setup for a Pamphobeteus sp. Ecuador II. I just set it yesterday and is looking very damp because I want to promote root growth of the Rabbit's Foor Fern on the cork tube. View attachment 266165 *sorry this took awhile. It took awhile to upload the image.

This is quite nice. Very interesting information. True on bonsai, I almost got into that until I realized little trees were a lot of work, or so it seemed. Curious, why do microfauna prevent one from having to do root pruning? This too is news to me.

What size tank? Lookes like an 18" x 18" x18" sorta ExoTerra, with the cork wall I've have seen from Zoomed I believe.

No apologies needed, your pictures definitely give me ideas. Much appreciated!!

 

[Storm1028]

This is quite nice. Very interesting information. True on bonsai, I almost got into that until I realized little trees were a lot of work, or so it seemed. Curious, why do microfauna prevent one from having to do root pruning? This too is news to me.

What size tank? Lookes like an 18" x 18" x18" sorta ExoTerra, with the cork wall I've have seen from Zoomed I believe.

No apologies needed, your pictures definitely give me ideas. Much appreciated!!

When plants are kept in a pot, the roots grow until it covers the whole volume of the pot (root bound). This eliminates soil and nutrients level in the soil. When plants are kept in a terrarium, the microfauna (like isopods) will eat some of the roots of the plants, controlling root growth. The feces from the isopods in turn will provide nutrients to the soil for the plants to use. The tank for both the pictures are Exo Terra Mini (12"x12"x12"). The cork background is from Zoomed, I just find it makes the terrarium look better with a background.

Edit: Eventually, one will have to root prune if the terrarium is left for a decade or so (maybe just 5 years). The presence of microfauna just eliminates having to do that over a one year period.