Replace screen tops!

bryverine

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Ok, so I'm wondering about metal mesh lids being equal.

There are two types I've seen:
1. Fine lids with mesh for window screens. E.g. the one pictured above.
2. Course lids that remind me of chain link.


I can see how a T can get a tarsal claw stuck in the first, but what about the second?

No, I do not have anything like these, I'm just curious.
 

viper69

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Ok, so I'm wondering about metal mesh lids being equal.

There are two types I've seen:
1. Fine lids with mesh for window screens. E.g. the one pictured above.
2. Course lids that remind me of chain link.


I can see how a T can get a tarsal claw stuck in the first, but what about the second?

No, I do not have anything like these, I'm just curious.
Actually for screen size, there's a few different things that are used. The one pictured above has fairly large "pore" sizes (the open squares). There is screen that is smaller that is used, and some people make lids with even larger squares than the above.

I don't know the answer, but it's an interesting question, not something I would risk. Remember in the wild they don't walk on anything that they can wrap their hooks around in the manner that is done with screen, a tight fitting mesh/surface.
 

viper69

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I'd trade the glass for the acryllic in no time.
Want to deal for me? Me haz the goed stuff, fery cheap, yes? :D
Interesting, why would you trade? Glass lasts longer, doesn't warp over time like acrylic can. Also acrylic won't change color due to coco-fiber contact either. Lastly, if you clean it wrong, you will scratch it etc etc.

I'd take glass over acrylic anytime. I've seen how much they go on EU ebay, so CHEAP!!!
 

Andrea82

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Interesting, why would you trade? Glass lasts longer, doesn't warp over time like acrylic can. Also acrylic won't change color due to coco-fiber contact either. Lastly, if you clean it wrong, you will scratch it etc etc.

I'd take glass over acrylic anytime. I've seen how much they go on EU ebay, so CHEAP!!!
Glass breaks. Bump it just a fraction too hard, and there will be scratches and chipped edges. Some glass panels are not true cut (for lack of a better phrase), and it shows the spider different, warped.
And it is extremely difficult to add ventilation. With acryllic, you can just drill or melt holes. The glass enclosure's vents are always in the same position, so there is a limited option on how you set up the interior.
And from what i've seen, acryllic is way more clear than glass.
Also, a glass enclosure weighs more, compared to one with same dimensions in acrylic.

But maybe it is just the proverbial 'the glass is always greener elsewhere' at work here ;)
 

viper69

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Glass breaks. Bump it just a fraction too hard, and there will be scratches and chipped edges. Some glass panels are not true cut (for lack of a better phrase), and it shows the spider different, warped.
And it is extremely difficult to add ventilation. With acryllic, you can just drill or melt holes. The glass enclosure's vents are always in the same position, so there is a limited option on how you set up the interior.
And from what i've seen, acryllic is way more clear than glass.
Also, a glass enclosure weighs more, compared to one with same dimensions in acrylic.

But maybe it is just the proverbial 'the glass is always greener elsewhere' at work here ;)
Well I suppose if one is clumsy, or slams their glass around damage ensues hahahaha I understand your point :) I understand what you mean about the warping. I've seen that in glass before myself.

I've also noticed there's a bit of a standard for ventilation over there. I've always thought it's a few sellers that make them, OR it's just something works so no need to change.

As for glass vs plastic, glass transmits light better than plastic. It's pure physics.
 

Andrea82

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Well I suppose ifI one is clumsy, or slams their glass around damage ensues hahahaha I understand your point :) I understand what you mean about the warping. I've seen that in glass before myself.

I've also noticed there's a bit of a standard for ventilation over there. I've always thought it's a few sellers that make them, OR it's just something works so no need to change.

As for glass vs plastic, glass transmits light better than plastic. It's pure physics.
I can't quote only sections from a
post using my smartphone, so i reply to a whole post, sorry.
Re: standard vents.
Yes. They are always low at the front, and high up the top panel. Which is fine for Avics, Psalms, and my Tappie, but a little harder when it's a terrestrial living there, since you can't get the substrate high enough to cushion falls without blocking the front vent.
There's a big difference there between USA and Europe. Lots of enclosures here are what US members would perceive as dangerous due to the space between substrate and top. I'm occupying the middle ground at the moment, allowing a little more space. Depends on the species as well though. My B.smithi has higher substrate than my Gbb.
I'm trying to get the best of both worlds, and that is simpler done with adjustable acrylic.
 

basin79

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Well my perspex arrived. The final piece of the puzzle.



Sadly the cheap soldering iron I bought wasn't upto the job and gave in after doing nearly 2 of the small pieces. So I've ordered a better quality iron that will be with me tomorrow so I can continue. I have at least got 1 lid done that's curing now.

I thought I'd post this update now as it doesn't hurt to bump this thread to the top just in case it's been missed. Maybe make it a sticky?
 

Trenor

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Sadly the cheap soldering iron I bought wasn't upto the job and gave in after doing nearly 2 of the small pieces. So I've ordered a better quality iron that will be with me tomorrow so I can continue. I have at least got 1 lid done that's curing now.
For thicker material hole making tasks I usually prefer to drill. It's easier on you and looks a little better IMO. Soldiering irons are made to be hot and use mostly the tip. If you keep it in too thick material then it'll build up too much heat and burn out. I have a soldiering iron I use for making hole and a good one I use for electronics. for this reason.

I can't wait to see how it turns out.
 

basin79

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For thicker material hole making tasks I usually prefer to drill. It's easier on you and looks a little better IMO. Soldiering irons are made to be hot and use mostly the tip. If you keep it in too thick material then it'll build up too much heat and burn out. I have a soldiering iron I use for making hole and a good one I use for electronics. for this reason.

I can't wait to see how it turns out.
I bloody hate using a drill. I find it's slower and obviously a lot messier. Although the smell would be better. I'm also a bugger for pressing on with a drill and crack the item.
 

Trenor

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I bloody hate using a drill. I find it's slower and obviously a lot messier. Although the smell would be better. I'm also a bugger for pressing on with a drill and crack the item.
Sharp drill bits are the key my friend. I'm heavy handed so I don't press down on the drill. I just hold the drill straight and let the weight of the drill do the work. If it's a thin lid with a lip I'll drill it from the inside so it sits flat.

I also like that the drill makes nice clean holes in a lot of the material I use for enclosures. Lately I've only been using the iron for deli cups and soft plastics.

Good luck man.
 

basin79

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Well it worked a treat. Really quick (although 24hrs for the silicone to cure) and simple.

For the little lids I just stuck each corner.


For the larger lids I also added 2 more spots in the outside middle.
 

Andrea82

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Well it worked a treat. Really quick (although 24hrs for the silicone to cure) and simple.

For the little lids I just stuck each corner.


For the larger lids I also added 2 more spots in the outside middle.
Looks good!
 

Abyss

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When i did mine i had to remove the rubber seal holding the mesh i and take the mesh out. I have a few more to do but they arent in use yet so i have time but if i can secure the acrylic on the mesh w/out removing it, thats the route i will go :)
 

KezyGLA

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IMG_3370.JPG
Been doing this for years. No problems since.

Cheap and easy.
Also not noticable from looking down on enclosure
 

viper69

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Well it worked a treat. Really quick (although 24hrs for the silicone to cure) and simple.

For the little lids I just stuck each corner.


For the larger lids I also added 2 more spots in the outside middle.

So you have the plastic under the screen. Looks like that worked out fine, and allows you to use the screen top in the future if you say dropped in frogs or snakes etc. Much better than ripping the screen out.

1 Any issues locking them in place back onto the ExoTerras?


2 What thickness is the acrylic for both pieces?
 

viper69

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When i did mine i had to remove the rubber seal holding the mesh i and take the mesh out. I have a few more to do but they arent in use yet so i have time but if i can secure the acrylic on the mesh w/out removing it, thats the route i will go :)
Curious, I would have expected to do the same as you. However, why do you think Basin didn't need to do the approach you went with? I hope there's not a different US vs European design at issue here for their lids.
 

basin79

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So you have the plastic under the screen. Looks like that worked out fine, and allows you to use the screen top in the future if you say dropped in frogs or snakes etc. Much better than ripping the screen out.

1 Any issues locking them in place back onto the ExoTerras?


2 What thickness is the acrylic for both pieces?
Nope. Absolutely none. I ordered 2mm.
 

viper69

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Nope. Absolutely none. I ordered 2mm.
I have a few spare ExoTerras, and wanted to use the lids for convenience, refused to remove the screen for reasons stated above. Thanks for this info, now I can rest at ease and use them for my some of my male Avics, and use them again for frogs etc.
 
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