What could go in this empty tank?

[SilverTycho]

I have an empty 18x18x24"H exo-terra I got several months ago. The question is, what could go in it? I'm not even sure I want to use it, but interested in options. I already have a crestie. I might get another, but what other options are there herp related? It could be awhile before I even use it. I'm not too familiar with arboreal animals so unsure. I've never had arboreal tanks in the past so I stuck with other reptiles.

 

[Shrike]

You have a lot of options. Other arboreal gecko species and tree frogs come immediately to mind. Is there anything specific you're looking for?

 

[SilverTycho]

I thought about tree frogs, but I'd have no clue where to start to learn about care. I tried Google but it's hard to know which website to trust. I was thinking whites tree frogs, but I don't know if that'd work or where to start care wise.

 

[AzJohn]

Crested geckos

 

[SilverTycho]

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll go with another crestie when I decide to use it, though I'm not too interested in filling it right now. I already have the food and everything for a crested gecko so it wouldn't be a big leap.

 

[ShredderEmp]

Try some Halloween Crabs. I'm getting some from Ken tomorrow, they're pretty cool.

 

[Entomancer]

If you want a frog (treefrogs or other arboreal frogs), get a Litoria caerulea (White's Australian Treefrog, or sometimes called "Blue Dumpy Treefrog"). They're one of the hardiest treefrogs out there, and are good for beginners, and mmany can be found that are captive bred.

1) Get an exo-terra 18 x 18 x 24. This tank has the right proportions for a frog, and it large enough that you won't have to worry as much about cleanliness, plus it has *far* better ventilation than a fishtank, while still being able to retain humidity well enough for frogs.

2) Buy some hydroton expanded clay pellets, and lay about 1.5 inches on the bottom (zoo med sells these at petco/petsmart too, but in smaller bags and for more money). Some people just use aquarium gravel, but I've tried both and the clay pellets outlasted the gravel by far.

3) Buy some yard fabric, and cut it to the size of the tank's "footprint", then lay it on top of the clay pellets. The pellets are a drainage layer, so that any excess water doesn't saturate the substrate.

3) Make subtrate by making a mixture of coco fiber, organic potting soil (try to use the type without perlite; you need to use organic, because the other kinds have chemical fertilizers that will kill your frog), and organic topsoil. You can use topsoil from your garden if you want to; it actually helps keep the tank clean by introducing microorganisms that break down organic matter, so you don't have to worry much about cleaning (note that your cannot use your garden soil for frogs if you use chemicals in your yard. Pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers take a long time to break down and will make quick work of any amphibian). Finally, obtain some dead oak or maple leaves, and lay them on top of the substrate. Then, get some isopods (if you don't know what those are, just look it up on these forums). The isopods will help keep things clean by eating frog feces and the leaves will help keep your frog from ingesting substrate when it jumps to catch a cricket. Just be careful not to include any bark or wood in the subtrate; if your frog ingests it, it could die from intestinal impaction. Also, avoid moss for the same reason, and because this frog species prefers slightly lower humidity than most, moss will not grow in this tank well enough for it to be considered as a component.

4) Select some plants. Some good starter plants can be found in the genera Epipremnum ("Devil's Ivy"), Tradescantia ("Wandering Jew"), Philodendron, and Sansevaria ('Snake Plants"). There are better lists around; try checking frogforum.net and talktothefrog.org. The plants listed here are good choices for a beginner, because they are relatively hardy and will tolerate being "used" by the frog. Plus, most of them have large leaves that will shade the tank. You really want live plants for a frog tank, because frogs are a lot more dependent on things like air quality and the ventilation/humidity balance than many lizards and snakes are. When you plant them, make sure to plant them in ways that allows them to grow appropriately. For example, Sansevaria sp. tend to get tall, and would do best without any obstructions above them, and Epipremnum sp. grow like vines, and so prefer to have a place to "climb" as they grow.

5) Add a large water dish. It should be at least 6 inches wide and deep enough to fill with about 1.5 inches of water. Add any stones, wood, etc; you should use mopani wood or manzanita wood; these are very mold-resistant and the Epipremnum will attach to it with aerial roots, which looks cool. Try to pick long pieces that would form alcoves or other hiding spots near the top of the tank. If you use stones, you *must* use stones that are large enough that the frog wouldn't be able to swallow them. Stick with broad, flat stones and put them around the water dish for improved drainage, if you want.

6) You need lights for the plants. An aquarium light fixture with a simple flourescent bulb (the exo terra 5.0 UVB tubes are good; there's also some you can get at home depot for cheaper) should be enough; change them every six months or the plants won't do well. DO NOT BUY A HEAT LAMP! Despite what others have said, most frogs do not tolerate temperatures above 80 degrees or so. The healthiest temperatures for almost any frog are from about 68 degrees to about 75. The lowest you can go (for tropical species) is 65, and the highest is about 78. Beyond either of these two thresholds, and you start taking unecessary risks with the frog's health.

Okay, now for maintenance...

1) Feed gut loaded and/or dusted crickets or roaches. Mealworms have a thick exoskeleton and are harder for frogs to digest.

2) These frogs need a relatively high humidity, like most frogs, but your frog is native to East Africa, and it does not live in "rain forest" type settings. I would try to hold the humidity to around 70%, and worry more about making sure that the frog has decent ventilation. The #1 mistake that beginners with frogs lose frogs is by inducing a bacterial infection by accident becuase they keep things too moist without having adequate ventilation.

3) Speaking of bacterial infections, you must wash your hands if you need to handle the frog, and you should not be handling it unless you absolutely have to. Also, on the topic of disease, you should look up "chytridiomycosis" and buy some lamisil AT (athlete's foot spray). Chytridiomycosis, or "chytrid", is a fungal disease from Africa that can take out a frog in less than a week if the conditions are right. The active ingredient in the spray is highly effective at killing the fungus (you'll need to look up how to prepare it for them; you aren't supposed to spray them with it), and can even be used in frog enclosures. You might also want a supply of baytril (plain baytril; not in syrup) for fighting bacterial infections, and some pedialyte; if your frog gets sick, making a 50:50 solution of pedialyte and water and bathing the frog with it is a great way to help the frog stay hydrated and maintain proper electrolyte balance. Generally, so long as you wash your hands and build the enclosure the way I explained (that's the way most frog keepers build them; some people make fancy water features and things, but this frog species would probably prefer a water dish, since water features really jack up the humidity), your frog should remain healthy

4)...Unless you don't keep things clean. A planted tank does not need cleaning; in fact, you should never take it apart and "deep clean" everything unless something goes very wrong (i.e., your frog contracts a bacterial infection that could "hide" in the tank while you treat the frog). I would remove feces from leaves and other surfaces as needed, and wipe down the glass if it gets fouled by putting just a little spot of hydrogen peroxide on a rag or some paper towel and rubbing/wiping the glass. The H2O2 will help break down any organic matter stuck to the glass, and kill any unwanted bacteria. Wipe the glass again in the fouled spot with a damp rag to remove any remnants of the peroxide and you're good to go.

5) Finally, change the water dish daily. Frogs often defecate in water, and a since frogs drink by bathing themselves, a frog bathing in water that they pooped in yesterday is taking some serious health risks. If you don't see any fecal matter (you'll know when you see it; it looks like lizard poop without the white nitrates), or you just see little specks of substrate, you can probably leave the dish, but change it the next day regardless. Bacteria grow like crazy in water dishes, and it's very difficult to save a frog once you can tell that it is sick. You'd be better off changing the water as close to daily as possible.

Alright, that covers everything. I'm sorry if you already knew some of these things; I just figured that it would make more sense to answer everything in one giant post than to take 30 posts to do the same thing.