Using chemical to remove adhesive residue

[Ratmosphere]

So today I slipped up and used a product called "Goof off" to remove sticky adhesive residue off one of my brand new enclosures. I usually use olive oil to do it but again, I slipped up. No animal is housed in this yet but I was expecting to put a true spider in it. I rinsed it off with water and hand soap after I used the chemical on it. If I thoroughly wash it wish dish soap when I get home, could the enclosure be saved? Or should I just throw it out ?

 

[Ratmosphere]

Just realized this should be in "Vivariums and Terrariums" sorry guys.

 

[miss moxie]

I THINK I've heard of people using that without problems but don't quote me.

I'm just here to offer this: It's much easier to use a hair dryer to warm up the glue of a sticker. I don't know if you do that already or not, but if you don't-- give it a shot next time. Some people use hot water on the inside of the enclosure but I find that is way too easy to get the sticker wet which is a pain in and of itself.

 

[Jason Brantley]

I have used Goof-Off. It works good. Use it sparingly because it has a watery consistency and could get messy.

 

[The Snark]

If I thoroughly wash it wish dish soap when I get home, could the enclosure be saved?

Yes.

http://www.goofoffproducts.com//uploads/general/FG790_SDS-GO21.2.pdf
Disposal and degradation
2-Butoxyethanol can be disposed of by incineration. It was shown that disposal occurs faster in the presence of semiconductor particles.[3] 2-Butoxyethanol usually decomposes in the presence of air within a few days by reacting with oxygen radicals.[20] It has not been identified as a major environmental contaminant, nor is it known to bio-accumulate.[21] 2-Butoxyethanol biodegrades in soils and water, with a half life of 1–4 weeks in aquatic environments.[10]

Potassium Oleate is a soap (adjuvant) and not considered an environmental hazard.

 

[Ratmosphere]

Cool! Thanks guys. I'm usually good with finessing the stickers off but this one was a real challenge.

 

[Haavard]

Medical grade alcohol is good for removing sticker residue. It is also very good for removing hot glue. I am a bit skeptical about the denatured alcohol that contains red dye and vomit inducing additives though. The latter is the only denatured alcohol you can buy in Norway due to government regulations. Bet you get the clean stuff over there?

 

[Ratmosphere]

I'd imagine so! The olive oil method works great too!

 

[The Snark]

One gripe I've had for years. With all the testing done of adhesives, why not have a removal method always listed on the label? Or at the least an adjuvant or reducing agent. Some do but most are Good Flocking Luck, folks.

 

[Ratmosphere]

Right? Some of them are super hard to take off.

 

[The Snark]

At a rough guess, less than 5% of the adhesives made are available to the general public. Probably <2%. Ease of use and environmental and personal hazards keep most out of the reach of lay people. But many of the household adhesives are watered down/weakened versions of the commercial and industrial ones. Just imagine if, say, the glues used to affix the tiles on the space shuttles were available to the general public. The ERs would be overloaded in a week.

 

[Ungoliant]

I am a bit skeptical about the denatured alcohol that contains red dye and vomit inducing additives though. The latter is the only denatured alcohol you can buy in Norway due to government regulations. Bet you get the clean stuff over there?

It's sold as "isopropyl rubbing alcohol" in the U.S., and it is somewhat effective at removing adhesive residue from glass.

I've also used nail polish remover (acetone) and paint thinner (the latter seems to work best) on glass.

 

[The Snark]

The alcohol and acetone are the best bets to first try. Do a test in some corner to see if they damage the surface. After those two try oils. Thick vegetable oils and very thin mineral based oils. Another trick is freeze spray which solidifies some adhesives and sticky substances to where they can be more easily managed. A last resort would be stronger solvents. MEK, lacquer thinner etc. Most of these will attack various paints and plastics. Also, if the surface can withstand heat, a heat gun often works. It can heat glues until they loose their adhesive properties and even char them. Alternating applications of a heat gun and an absorptive material will eventually remove wax based materials like crayons.

 

[Haavard]

For those who don't already know.... Don`t ever use acetone on acrylics. Its great on glass though.