Using a heat mat with an acrylic enclosure

Doc Ebola

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Hi everyone. I wondered if anyone has ever used a heat mat with an acrylic enclosure, and if it caused the walls of the enclosure to warp at all? For information, I have one of those arboreal invertebrate enclosures made of thick acrylic that you assemble yourself (no glue), a 7W heat mat that you stick on the outside of the enclosure, and a thermostat. I'm aiming for 25 degrees, and hoping not to have to buy any new equipment for a set-up. Thanks in advance. Here's a picture of the set up just for your interest - it's for a Stegodyphus sp. “Xinjiang” colony, and I'm hoping they'll make their nest in the ring of vines I've made.

IMG_4539.jpeg
 

viper69

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Im sure it will at some point. Even acrylic lids without a mat warp due to changes in ambient temp + humidity changes in a normal room
 

Smotzer

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I’m sure it will warp at some point. the mat is definitely not intended for acrylic and you’d have better temp control with glass as well anyway.
 

Brewser

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Suggest a dedicated space heater, provide ambient heat recommended.
 

Doc Ebola

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Thanks for the replies everyone. I do have a dedicated bug room but was planning a display elsewhere. I just wondered if anyone had had bad experiences with this.
 

The Snark

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Depends on the type of acrylic. But in the case of simple containments you won't be finding heat resistant or bullet proof.
 

Smotzer

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another win for glass!! I'd love a knockdown ExoTerra for easy packing!
I actually have a few 12x12x12 glass that are knockdown, they are just only top opening! Ill have to send you the link
 

Matt Man

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it will take a while for the acrylic to warp. Different humidity on each side of the ACR is more of a threat to warping and a heater may dry the inner of the enclosure more and possibly reduce interior humidity which would 'possibly' reduce warping. Try it out and monitor it.
We may learn something. It's tab and slot construction so the warping won't damage the seams as there are none
 

Doc Ebola

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Thanks everyone. I'll have to be careful here as I don't really want to have to move an established colony due to any future warping in the enclosure, and that's assuming all goes well - never had a velvet spider before let alone a colony species. I might just stick my hand in my pocket and shell out on a new glass enclosure. I'll keep you posted and fire up some pics. Cant wait for them to arrive.
 

Matt Man

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Thanks everyone. I'll have to be careful here as I don't really want to have to move an established colony due to any future warping in the enclosure, and that's assuming all goes well - never had a velvet spider before let alone a colony species. I might just stick my hand in my pocket and shell out on a new glass enclosure. I'll keep you posted and fire up some pics. Cant wait for them to arrive.
velvet spiderlings are tiny, make sure there are no small holes / slots where they can escape. Congrats, and which species is your colony?
 

TheraMygale

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My acrylics all warped, with no help needed. These were dry setups. The lid is where it happens most.

its an acrylic thing. Of course, the thicker, the better. But price of acrylic has gone up and at some point, corners are cut to provide a product that can be afforded.
 

Matt Man

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My acrylics all warped, with no help needed. These were dry setups. The lid is where it happens most.

its an acrylic thing. Of course, the thicker, the better. But price of acrylic has gone up and at some point, corners are cut to provide a product that can be afforded.
yes, because lids typically do not have attachments to other pieces helping to keep them in line. Most are just single pieces, either hinged or slot fit with rare earth magnets. Even in a dry set up, the internal versus external humidity differences means
the acrylic is gonna suck up some moisture as the water passes through. The absorption is where you are getting that warp.
I think expansion runs about 5mm per meter
 

TheraMygale

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yes, because lids typically do not have attachments to other pieces helping to keep them in line. Most are just single pieces, either hinged or slot fit with rare earth magnets. Even in a dry set up, the internal versus external humidity differences means
the acrylic is gonna suck up some moisture as the water passes through. The absorption is where you are getting that warp.
I think expansion runs about 5mm per meter
its sucks because i really like the look of acrylic enclosures. Glass enclosures were built with reptile/amphibian sizes and do not always work for a terrestrial tarantula. Without involving modifictions, which of course, is not always easy for every.

im using the good old faunariums and some plastic things found at dollorama. Im lucky to have an assistant who loves doing these mods.

i want something like faunariuams without the escape risks. I know when tarantula is big its not as bad, but i know their powers.

i also don’t like always having to tape, and double back tape. I like a nice clean look. But for now its what i can afford.
 

Doc Ebola

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Well, after a lot of faffing about, I decided to put them in my nice warm bug room, so no heat mat required. And a bonus - I now have a spare glass enclosure that obviously needs a tenant. I was after a nice display in my living room, because everything is "hidden away" in my bug room. Maybe something a bit hardier, temperature-wise. Any suggestions - it's an arboreal set-up?

velvet spiderlings are tiny, make sure there are no small holes / slots where they can escape. Congrats, and which species is your colony?
Thanks, and yep, they are pretty tiny. Found a little escape hole in the latch and plugged it up quick smart. They're "snow white ladybirds" (Stegodyphus sp. “Xinjiang”). Going to see how they get on in the enclosure but may put them in something smaller. I made a nice ring / spiral of vines and twigs in the hope they'll start small in the middle with room to expand. First velvets, first social species.
 
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